Better Way to Mount Flexible Solar Panels on RV (2019)
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Learn how to mount a semi flexible solar panel on an RV so it’s easily REMOVABLE, has an AIR GAP for cooling, and requires NO DRILLING into the roof.
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Materials You'll Need for this Project
- Corrugated Plastic Sheet (size of panel)
- 6 x 1” Stainless Steel Carriage Bolts (¼ - 20)
- 6 x ¼” x 1” Stainless Steel Washer
- 6 (or 12) ¼” - 20 Stainless Steel Bolts (double for locking)
- 6 x ¼” - 20 Stainless Steel Wingnuts (optional if using bolts)
- 4 x ¼” Lock washers
- Aluminum transition strip (for front edge)
- Lock Tight (optional)
- 3M VHB Tape (amzn.to/2FzZK6D)
- 4" Eternabond Tape (amzn.to/2JfezN0)
How to make the Solar Panel Mount
(1) Cut insulator plastic sheet to fit solar panel
(2) Drill ¼” holes through grommets
(3) Cutout bottom of pla7stic insulator under each hole with utility knife deep enough for carriage bolts to be flush with surface (don’t cut all the way through)
(4) Cut six 2” sections of aluminum transition as anchors for the bolts (one for each hole)
(5) Round edges and remove sharp edges of aluminum anchor pieces
(6) Cut 2” x ¼” notches by each hole for each aluminum anchor
(7) Cut front-edge lift cover to the width of the solar panel (smooth edges)
(8) Drill ¼” holes in all anchors
(9) Pre-assemble insulator, bolts and anchors (leave solar panel off for now)
NOTE: Holes are not necessary for the front lift cover. The bolts will not go through the lift cover so that it can be easily lifted off. The lift cover will be held in place by the large washers under each front edge mounting point. Cut grooves if desired around the bolts.
Installation Instructions
(1) Clean roof surface with rubbing alcohol
(2) Position pre-assembled plastic insulator on roof
(3) Secure edges with VHB tape (A couple pieces near each anchor point on each side should do)
(4) Position solar panel over mount aligning the bolts through the grommets
(5) Cut a section of Eternabond Tape to cover each anchor point
(6) Cut a small hole through each piece of tape for the bolt to go through
(7) Remove the tape backing for each secure the tape over each mounting point
(8) Position the front-edge lift cover over the front edge and secure front with Eternabond
NOTE: The Eternabond tape should function as a hinge to allow the front-cover to be easily lifted off.
(9) Install the washers and bolts on each anchor point
NOTE: If you use wingnuts, consider adding some Lock Tight on the threads. You can also double up the bolts for added security.
#rvwithtito #rvsolardiy #diy #rvlife #vanlife #solar #offgrid #doityourself #howto #boondocking #ideas
This video also covers these topics:
Flexible solar panel air gap, Sunpower flexible solar panels, semi flexible solar panels, Flexible solar panels for rv, flexible solar panels for motorhome, Flexible solar panel for rv roof, flexible 12v solar panels, do flexible solar panels get hot, 100w flexible solar panel, problems with flexible solar panels
Disclaimer
The opinions expressed in our videos are our own or from a contributor. Before taking on any project or making a large purchase, we recommend you do your own research and consult a professional for advice. We are NOT liable for any damage to your RV or injury incurred as a result of following our tips, advice or instructions. We are not RV professionals or certified technicians. We are simply RV owners who work on our own RVs and have a desire to share what we learn with others. Be responsible and know your limits.
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can you tell us what do you use for cable roof box ? i'm having a hard time find one that can be adjustable or adding / removing more cables ?
@@jeannie8262 Hi Jeannie. Have you seen this video? ruclips.net/video/aB8ic6x9DAM/видео.html. This is how I do it. I can add new holes for more cable glands as needed. Right now I have 4. Hope that helps.
How are the panels working now? Still like new? Have you noticed any performance drop? And other issues?
I need someone to help me install on my Roadtrek know anyone?
That corrugated plastic is call "'Corflute"'.
Genius idea! I am just an hour away from installing my flexible solar panel, but now I have to run to the hardware store. Thanks for saving me from making the mistake of gluing my panel directly to the roof!
Excellent solution for: 1. Stealth install with a very low profile. 2. Air flow to cool the panels and water drainage. 3. No holes in the roof. 4. Front of panel secured to prevent air sailing. This type of install will extend the life of the panel.
I'm hoping it helps extend the panel life.
Most panels fail due to the abuse that UV radiation can dish out. Adhering directly to metal can actually act as a heat sink yet with a quality panel...heat is not an issue. BTW...stealth is a lost art. Law enforcement and concerned citizens are usually supported by the latest ordinances to prevent anyone to stealth camp in many, if not most, neighborhoods and business districts. It was easy in the 80's and 90's...nowadays...not so much. I recomends getting out of the cities onto public land. Its wonderful.
I really like the idea of being able to easily change out the panel at a later date and no holes drilled in the roof. I will definately use this method.
I recently posted a video showing a new method. If you like this one then the other is better. 👍
Brilliant. This should become the standard method for installing flex panels. Thanks, Brian!
You're welcome Kathy.
I just recently completed installing 6 of the Sunpower 100w flexible panels on my travel trailer using this method and I like how everything turned out. I will definitely report back after I hit the road for a couple months. I opted for elevator bolts as others have suggested. Excited to hit the road next month. Thanks Brian for the inspiration!!
You bet. Enjoy!
What are the long term results?
I already bought my flexible, solar panel. I already have portable ones and I drive a minivan which I created into a little camper. I love your idea here I didn’t want to put the tape all the way around it and that gives me some great ideas especially with that that barrier you put between the solar panel and the RV!!
Drill a hole in the wing nut a safety wire it to the stud . Aviation tip.👍
Or just use a nylon nut!
Or just use a lock nut.
Skateboarder tip just use lock nuts. Same thing we use to keep the wheels on the trucks.
😊
Jap nuts are known to come loose, that's why they drill a hole in the stud and put a cotter pin in .
Hey great job! Looks great. Gotta love that eternabond tape. Super strong.
Could you do an output test with a watt meter with those flex panels? I would love to see how well they have held up. How long have you been using the sunpower ones? Those are the only flex panel cells that work well
Thanks Will. I've used eternabond for tons of stuff. I've even used it to patch a leaky fuel line in a pinch until I could fix it. Worked!
So far they are a top performer, They are the 110 watt ones, but I've only used them for 3 months. I haven't isolated and measured them since installing, but I'd love to make them last a long time.
@@RVwithTito they look great!! Can't wait to see how they hold up. Your mounts look amazing!! So cool
@@RVwithTito So you are a year in with the panels, how are they holding up? I'm thinking of ordering 12 to use on a boat instead of rigid panels (to save weight). Sunpower certainly seem to be the best, but still not sure of how long they will last...
A slot cut in the threaded end of the bolts, would be a good idea.
Then if they ever spin in the hole, you could hold them with a screwdriver when you take the nut off.
What an excellent idea. Sounds like a job for my mini cordless Dremel. Thanks!!
I don't think that I would have cut out around the heads of the carriage bolts. They will compress up when tightened and leave the double thickness for strength. Great job and thanks for sharing.
Exactly what I was thing. Just use a flat top carriage bolt instead of round top and a washer. Slap a piece of tape over it to keep metal from rubbing the rubber roof.
it only locates the coreflute, you could actually cut or punch it completly out, the alloy strip and panel secure the coreflute
Awesome video, personally I would use elevator bolts. Maybe epoxy them to the roof as well. Also remember if you are using ANY stainless to use anti-seize or STL to prevent galling. If you line up the wing nuts forward to back before you set them to the roof all you have to do is take a quick look on top to see if any wing nuts have turned off of the forward to rearward orientation. Nice job!!
Thanks for the suggestions. Check out my more recent mount and let me know what you think. ruclips.net/video/uJIEXhnF8MU/видео.html
Good video !
One suggestion, round the corners of the tape.
That’s a technique all roofers do when dealing with any type of flashing material.
Thanks for the suggestion. I've been looking into heat welding material also.
This is for all you RV goers... Hehehe, the only trick i came up with...
I have hooked my "hot water" side of the sink tap to the external water inlet so that i can use the external water and save the one from my tank just by swinging the handle towards the hot water...
It might be helpful to someone with a simpler set up like myself!
GREAT VIDEO thanks so much for posting it.... The only thing i would do differently would be to run the front tape only dead aligned with the edge of the floor transition strip edges and i would cut a 'U' shaped notch to house the front bolts so that if i want to remove the solar panel i could just easily flip the aluminium transition up as these panels don't last a super long time in good working order.
I know I'm a little late to the party but that piece on the leading edge seems to me like it will negate one possible advantage of the corrugated panel. If you orient the "tubes" in the panel toward the front of the RV you will get airflow through the panel which will basically cool the panel to ambient temperate while you are underway. I'm thinking that VHB tape between the roof, the corrugated panel and the solar panel will provide plenty of strength to prevent lift and give you good air flow through the panel. I'm getting ready to do this project so I'm thinking I might try this. Keep the good stuff coming.
I now use your process. I really like this because no holes in roof and if I want to use the panels I can remove them.
Great! Let us know if you come up with any ways to improve it.
FYI- I'm not getting instant notification of your new videos. I missed the last 3. Glad I came looking.
Hit that bell icon :) Glad you checked back in.
Cooling airflow thru the coreflute under the panel could increase the efficiency of the panel.
Just drilling a series of small holes in the front face of the anti-lift strip would suffice. It would not reduce strength and could allow enough airflow to pass to make a small but noticeable difference?
you could add a cotter pin on the end of each bolt to prevent loss of a wingnut that could vibrate loose on the highway
So I did a facsimile of this method using corex and double sided Eternabond tape and they made it through the summer and the flex panels are still working fine.
Very nice! Wish you had come up with this about 6 weeks ago before I put flexible panels on my RV. This is a much better method.
Oops. Sorry about that.
@@RVwithTito LOL, nothing to be sorry about. I just really like the way you did it, versus the way I did it.
I think going with hard panels is smarter anyway. They're more efficient, durable and perform better. A bit of a pain to install, but if you do that right you can even create a way to tilt them up using actuators (for example, a frame made out of 8020 t-slot) and thus increase solar collection efficiency hugely when the sun isn't directly overhead.
Sure. You're not alone. Many prefer traditional panels. I'm not trying to change anyone's mind, just sharing what I'm trying out for those who are interested.
Great idea! After messing with mounting my flexi panels entirely with Eternabond, (with 2 layers of bubble foil insulation underneath,) and caulking the edges of the tape, I still couldn't keep the water out. Now I'm going to have some serious acetone work ahead of me to remove the Eternabond goo.
This is some of the best DIY videos for anyone with an RV. Thank you for making these.
Great video! That Eternabond is great stuff. If they want to change the name, it should be "tar baby". It really doesn't left go!
Agreed. I use it for lots of things and always have some around.
Great Job Tito! Wonder if you would do a follow on video of the electrical connection part?
Dude, you are a genius!!!
Check out this newer flex mount install ruclips.net/video/uJIEXhnF8MU/видео.html
Very clever and clean, I install these same panels on Boats where they are mounted on canvas.
Thanks. I've been wanting to incorporate some twist lock fasteners through the grommets like you might see on a bimini. That might be iteration #3. If you have suggestions let me know know 👍
Mark...how do you secure the panels to the canvas? I plan to do this on top of my bimini...thanks
what a great idea. You truly are the Macgyver of RV's
You are a good video maker Brian. You have been able to demonstrate that good video quality is valued higher than reliable content because let's face it, the methods of putting flexible panels down on the roof leave room for improvement :-)
You must have figured out that your first method, caulking a flexible panel down all the way around the panels, locks heat up underneath it. The new plan of using plastic cardboard might have been sprouted with the thought that the tiny bit of airflow through the plastic cardboard will supply more cooling. It might do the opposite.
Of course now we have a flexible solar panel with a soft insulating underlayment that makes the panel very prone to cracking when stepped upon while the insulation takes that last chance away to conduct some destructive heat away from the panel and into the roof.
I would not be surprised if in the coming years your knowledge evolves to “flexible panels are good for mobile use on a cool grass mat but for god sake use conventional rigid solar panels on the roof with a good air gap between it and the roof, at a good angle, to let air convection transport the heat out from underneath the panels.”
Keep up the good work :-)
Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experience. I'm glad you liked the video quality 🙄
Excellent video, very clear advice on installation. Many thanks, that's going to make my life easier.
Thanks. Check out the newer mount as well. It's what I'm using now.
Hello Tito, I used this method and it completely failed. Yes there is a flex panel somewhere in the middle of the desert. After we lost the first one we reinforced the second with eternobond all the way around. Then on our next trip it flew off. A truck passing by flagged me down and I was able to find it. So now we're starting over again however I'm thinking that driving in the 100+ degree temps is softening up the glue so that's the reason it's not holding. We're now thinking of adding some of the double sided tape under the panel (yes we have the insulator) then attach the panels with 6 screws, and then use the tape everywhere else. Do you have any recommendations on the type of screw or any other recommendations on how I can secure the panel on the roof? Thank you
Home Deopt cheap'ish Lexan capillaries type sheeting under flexi solar panel = much needed cooling ;)
Really like how this is done. Hoping to add solar to my travel trailer later this year and this may be the way I go now.
Sweet. I'll keep posting any updates and improvents I make.
I did something similar, I used neoprene padding beneath each flexible panel. Your corrugated plastic is much less expensive. Excellent idea.
Maybe use 1/2" sheet of foam insulation.
That looks like a pretty nice solution. I've been considering adding a solar panel to the top of my pop-up camper and I might use this method. However, I would probably use elevator bolts instead of carriage bolts. Elevator bolts usually have a larger, flatter, head so you wouldn't have to cut out material to accommodate the carriage bolt head. You can also find elevator bolts with spike grippers under the head that would help keep them from spinning.
I've also started putting tape under the bolt so it doesn't make direct contact to the roof. Good luck with your project!
Elevator bolts is the exact method I'll also be using - with a 1 1/4" head, I can use pre-cut VHB circles for easy install.
Hi,,, may be instead of wing nut a lock nut would be more satisfying.
Great info, thank you!
Brilliant!! Just what i was loooking for! New subscriber, going to enjoy looking at your other videos!
BRILLIANT! I have a fiberglass high top that I wouldn't want to drill holes through, this is a great low-cost and low-tech solution. The corrugated plastic panels also go by the name Coroplast. The aluminum piece looks like the z-flashing I used to join the 4x8 panels on the outside of my shed.
So how do you get the wires through? I also have a fiberglass high top and would love to know some alternatives
great videos and ideas, keep up the good work ! I was wondering if you can take a thermo reading with a laser gun to a solar panel that has the plastic cardboard and one that does not ... just to see the difference ... thank you !
I'm not in a position to do it now, but I will at some point.
Great, many thanks for the free download. Lots to read. Regards AJ
You're welcome!
Thanks for sharing. I like that you have a written summary in your notes. I also like that you did not have to cut into your van to mount the flex panels.
You should look into super capacitors or lithium battery “power walls to store the energy you are producing with your solar roof.
Wow, you've done it again. A very well thought out and executed DIY install. Nearly genius. If I can only overcome the fear of that first big step, which panels to buy, what else do I need, controllers, etc. Like you, I am a planner, but sometimes I over think things. I always learn from your videos. Thanks for sharing.
RedRoofRetriever I hear ya!
@@secondwindphotos This dude posted this in spring - ruclips.net/video/Dvqvhl18dO4/видео.html
Nothing wrong with over thinking it. Better than regrets. But don't get analysis paralysis. Sometimes jumping in and buying one item and tackling a small project illuminates bigger ones.
If you want to now best products - see Humble Road videos for electrical components.
Solar panels are independent from rest of the items. Stick to lightweight panels not heavy glass ones. Mount like Tito did, best way I've seen. Keep them covered up so you don't get a shock or electricity being generated till you are ready to use them. Run a fake line like a string thru your existing roof vents like Fridge. Once the string is inside the RV decide where it needs to go for hookup and how long it needs to be. Your wire thickness depends on length. Mock it up first.
Then make cardboard mockups of all the electrical devices you need and mount them in RV. Once it is all set in place and you worked out the kinks, do your ordering.
Best Inverter is Victron. The Multiplus 2 can handle both lithium and AGM (Lead acid) batteries, and is also a battery charger and inverter. It is a True Sine Inverter not Modified Sine. Do not use a Modified Sine or your 110V appliances will fry. Always True Sine! Get a 2000 Watt inverter for most things as 3000 watt is pretty high. The bigger inverters will also sip more power as they are turned on. You only need an inverter turned on when you use 110V power from the batteries. 12V lights and fans, water pump, fridge mostly run without the inverter.
Best solar charge controller (SCC) is Victron MPPT (not PWM). For a 30 amp SCC, you can mount a max of 400 watts of solar. If you mount 420 watts, you need another 30 amp SCC. It is better to get two SCCs at 30 amps each than one at 60 amps. Easier to have two systems if one malfunctions. The other one is still working.
Safety code issues with your wiring diagram, wire gauges, wire heating all covered by Greg Virgoe. He is a great teacher and UK certified electrician.
Where do you start?
With your own requirements. Start camping and note what you want and need. Hair dryer? Toaster, coffee maker or French Press? Run AC on batteries or no AC? Run fridge on AC or use old tech propane fridge? Make a list. Then determine size of inverter you need. Then decide how much lithium battery bank size you need and can afford. You can keep adding batteries, and solar panels but not inverters. Also you could have a small dedicated inverter for your CPAP machine at night so the big power hog can be turned off. Requirements are key and you need to know yours first.
@@mjremy2605great info!
Really good advice and well done. Always look forward to your video's. Many thanks and best wishes from the Midlands of England.
Great to be ale to share across the pond. Thanks!
Thank you. It is an excellent idea. It helps a lot to my project
2 things - 1/ You might want to look into polycarbonate as an alternative to chloroplast. It will endure better. 2/ You might want to plug the channels so insects don't move in. Something to let the air pass but not the bugs.
Funny you say that. I have picked up a bunch of polycarbonate and plan to swap out the chloroplast and try a new mounting technique.
Interesting and creative idea and implementation. Any way to tell if you're getting improved output from the panels being cooler?
Hey guys. The output has been really good but it will be hard to nail down what the impact of the mounting method really is because these are higher quality panels over the previous ones. I imagine the operating temperature during peak hours are about the same (around 140 degF). We will see how they hold up over time.
@@RVwithTito Can't wait to see 'em in person. 😊
@@RVwithTito
How are we doing so far?
@@unenslaver1333 curious about an update on these panels as well.
@@RVwithTito Compared to say, Renogy, are the Sunpower panels better at producing/converting light to energy? I'm looking at both.
I am so thankful I found you! I'll be bringing my first RV home in just a couple more weeks. Class C 32 ft. Beyond excited. I'm hooked on your videos. Your work, patience and craftsmanship is impeccable! Thank you for sharing your knowledge, experience and AWESOME ideas! Happy camping! 😁
I'd pick elevator bolts over carriage bolts- thinner head.
Here is Seattle, I'd worry about moss and mung accumulating under the plastic board.
One of my two panels flew off my van using this method, going 80mph down a highway in high winds. Panels were mounted horizontally across the roof, one in front of the other (that's one point of difference; these are mounted "vertically" down the length of the roof). I also didn't attach that transition strip to the back panel, the one that flew off, so maybe that's what did it in. Panel was still attached to the corrugated plastic when it flew off. But I can't risk trying this method again. Not sure why no one else seems to have had problems.
GUI the people that I’ve tried it I have not actually returned for input🚚
That's a really nice setup. I can't stand the thought of drilling holes in my roof....
Why? Just seal it with silicone. The non flexible panels have a higher efficiency and much longer life.
Using 3M extreme mounting tape where the EBT is might eliminate the need for the EternaBond. Also how important is the front edge long aluminum piece? Wouldn’t it be good to have the air flowing through the plastic as one is driving?
So how is this holding up after 3 years?
Great ideas! Thanks for sharing
Perhaps NYLOC Wingnuts instead of lock washers and lock tight?
I used this method to install my 3 flexible solar panels three years ago and about 20k miles and it has served me well. My corrugated plastic has begun to get brittle and will need replacement but this worked and worked well.
I think I would have used polycarbonite storm panels instead of the plastic cardboard... The storm panels are clear, stiff, and could easily let you glue down the solar panel to the storm panel sheet and then remove it if you need to, and the corrugations are bigger than the plastic cardboard so you get better ventilation. Make sure to put the corrugations front to back or it will whistle as you go down the road.
Funny you mention it. I'm using those now.
May be an additional reflective sheet in-between the solar panel and the corrugated panel would provide additional heat shield in your next project.
Do you mean like aluminum, golly you must have some extra money to spend
I couldn't find those transition straps anywhere. My biggest issue was working with a curved roof on both axis'. I ended up trying and combing a few ideas to install it on the roof of my car. Thanks for the help & replies.
ruclips.net/video/idm3ooqQFcU/видео.html
The red loctite is overkill. I would get rid of the lock washer and use blue loctite instead of red, or use just the lock washer.
Use elevator bolts they have large flat heads with anti rotating tabs
Jeff, I'm getting ready to use Brian's method of mounting panels and also agree that "elevator bolts" seem to be a good option over standard carriage bolts. With the flush heads it seems it will eliminate cutting out a layer of the plastic card board so this will retain integrity and strength of the PCB. I'm also going to use 3/4" bolts rather that 1" to eliminate the extra threads sticking up above the wing nuts.
I'm considering 3M VHB tape rather than Eternabond for bonding but would appreciate comments.
Lastly, Brian thanks for a great site/channel !!
Disregard the 3M VHB comment which was included in error.
Jeff, thank you for the tip did not even know elevator bolts existed
Thx Brian! I like it. Did you ever take your temperature gun and check how much heat comes through your roof with the new design versus the old versus no solar? I like the idea of corplast just to keep the suns heat out, but you went one further with the solar! Well done!
Thanks. I haven't measured temps yet in a controlled setting.
As usual, your vlogs continue to set the bar for how to communicate and show the correct way for project's. Keep them coming.
Thanks Wayne!! I'll keep them coming for sure.
Excellent video, idea etc! I want to use your idea and instructions to attach a 100 watt flexible solar panel to my BOAT's fiberglass hardtop. Any comments or ideas on that change of vehicle as I get a lot of wind from all directions at times when storms roll thru. I suppose you too experience those gusty side winds in your RV but maybe not as much or as often as we do close to the Atlantic ocean during storms. Your thoughts and those of your subscribers will be appreciated. I am powering a Bluetti A180 for my electrical needs rather than carrying a heavy, smelly generator. It works great as shore power charges it, as well as the outboard charges it and soon the sun will charge it. Thanks for a great idea from someone who does not like to put holes in boats, even above the waterline!
These flex panels were primarily designed for boats. So you should be good. There may even be some marine grade twist lock fastener that could work through the grommets. I've also seen these panels sewn into a Bimini and anchored with velcro. Hope this gives you some ideas.
@@RVwithTito THANKS tITO!
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for, thank you so much!
You're welcome. Glad it helped.
Nice job, Tito. I wondered about the panels "lifting" when traveling; hadn't thought of the heat issue. Thanks for sharing this! Y'all Be Safe!
There's been no lifting at all with this setup.
You can cover sides of van, too. Most of the time sun is fron side, not top. On top is just 3h a day. Cover all van and put Tesla PowerWall.
@@simonci5177 except that the Tesla Powerwall weighs almost 350#. Most people would not want to add that kind of weight to a small camper.
Very helpful video, thanks. Is the eternabond suitable for fibreglass roof?
I noticed the plastic corrugations run width wise not length wise on your panel. I had to "rewind" the video to verify as I thought sealing up the front edge would block any air flow if the corrugations ran front to back. I made a PVC awning/portable mount using your previous video. Thank you for that. And boy, those panels get HOT in direct sunlight.
The front edge is covered by the aluminium piece so front to back orientation wouldn't work. The side orientation is also for proper drainage since the panels are on a very slight downward side angle.
Panel heating has been the demise of many a panel made with the wrong materials. Do some research and you will find panels that can take tremendous heat and still have most of their output after 10-15 or even 20 years. I have a Uni-Solar panel that is 13 years old... very little degredation. My neighbor has had all his panels (four identical from the same manufacturer) die within 3 years. He went the lesser quality route. They were beautiful panels but the materials just did not hold up well. I have a total of 13 amorphous panels that all look about the same as when I bought them yet were never fancy looking. They are also larger than the equivilant crystaline panels so more real estate is needed.
Thank you so much for this amazing detailed build!
You bet. There's always room for improvement. I have some ideas for another method some time this year. We'll see.
Great Job , The Plastic is called COREFLUTE , used in sinage ,,, very strong stuff ,,
Wikipedia adds: Corriboard - also known under the tradenames of Cartonplast®, Polyflute, Coroplast, FlutePlast, IntePro, Proplex, Correx, Twinplast, Corriflute or Corflute. Wish I could find the affordable version. Its kinda spendy.
I'd go with plywood for cost and stability.
@@ravendon Missing the point, getting heat away from the flexible panel with the core flute is the best thing as that's a major problem that shortens flexible panels life span dramatically...
to save costs wait until after elections and use political signs;)
Excellent idea!! I guess I'll have to settle for either a blue or red roof then :)
wow nice job thats what iam thinking of doing thx
Good luck. Glad this helped.
Thanks for this video, are you still happy with the flexible panels after the failure in your last video?
Absolutely. I'm using higher quality panels/cells now though that should have more longevity.
If you buy QUALITY (usually american or european made) flexible solar panels you will be happy. I might suggest amorphous type panels for better low light and partially shaded performance. They are less efficient so are sized larger for a given wattage. Often the warranty is 25 years yet you may well never need any warranty assistance. Have fun!
Cool! Might this technique work for standard panels that are a little thicker and heavier, or is it thin flexible only?
I'd stick with just flex for this technique. Check out my newer t-track method. It may work for some other panels.
This is perfect! I’m considering the same approach you have by using the flexible solar panels.
I love the idea of being able to remove it easily. Great job!
I have another topic to pick your brain on. I saw the flexible panel comparison video, which was very helpful. My biggest head scratcher is the number of panels. The online calculators say I need 8 200w panels for my little 15’ Jayco. My monthly use at the campground is showing 12,000w per month. I am in Florida where the air is needed full time, and for the dog while I’m not home. What would your suggestion be. Thanks and blessings to you and yours.
How do you keep the bolts from turning as you are screwing on the wing nut?
Why not just use normal, half the price solar panels, it takes the work away to create a normal panel from a flexible one lol
This was a bit silly at best!
Wow I have been racking my brain to figure out how to install panels on fiberglass. So excited to cross you path.... best solution I’ve seen so far... I think I have a winner. Thank you 😊
Awesome! Good luck.
@Teresa Noel You need an air gap under solar panels to keep them cool so they don't overheat and fail. Rigid panel are the way to go. You should not puncture the roof to mount them. Use adhesive to mount ABS blocks that hold the rigid panels. See www.amazon.com/dp/B07RYPFSGJ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07RYPFSGJ
Well done and Tks for the tips.
You're welcome!
surprising you went with flexible again after the first failures. yeah I know sunpower is a better brand but the issue is heat dissipation which I'm not sure the that plastic board will be enough. I mean, they are warrantied for 5 years instead of 25-30 for a reason. I'm certain with the money you save with normal panels (thinner frameless ones do exist now) you could get a rack mount to allow more clearance between the panel and rv roof. I mean it's an rv so it doesn't need to be steal or anything. well hope your solution works.
I'll keep you posted and share how it works long-term.
What were your performance gains with Vs without the air gap? Is it worth it? I’m assuming while driving there is enough wind to cool them to ambient. But, while stationary, I’d like to see your numbers before and after
Very well done and well thought out...
Those doing lock washers are basically useless so if you cant torque them down property and are worried about vibration the lock tight is probably the way to go
Without the loctight, you're right. They would slowly loosen. After putting blue loctight on the threads, they haven't budged.
Brian, I'm new here.....really enjoying your solar video's.
QUESTION: Probably have answered a couple hundred times but who is Tito? Thanks my friend!
Tito is what we named our little dancing hula dude on our RV dash.
if you copy this design, before installing it, cut screwdriver slots in the ends of the carriage bolts, just in case they try and rotate when you remove the PV panels then you can use a screw driver to stop the carriage bolt from spinning
That’s always a good idea or you can use to nuts snug down the lower not encounter tighten the upper one
What I like the best is that they can be removed and installed only when your leaving for a trip and plan on boon docking. An excellent, low wear on panels idea.
I may be the first one to ask...Aluminum with stainless steel? Isn't there an increased chance of the steel causing the aluminum to corrode? I know when ever we do aluminum on a hose siding soffit/facia etc we must use aluminum fasteners to prevent the "electrolosis" reaction between dis-similar metals.
I don’t use roof mount panels, I tend to park under shady areas. I set panels in sunny areas, I have a rack for my panels in the back of my truck.
Is the bolt locked on the back in contact on the VHB tape? Was hard to see at 7:50 this would help the bolt keep from turning if a nylon lock nut is used. Eternabond tape is a good touch for a nice belt and suspenders approach, for getting past penetrations in the roof.
: Great work. Very nice job !
I wonder if the corrugated plastic will rub/bounce on the roof and create a wear spot that rust can attack.
I have a rubber roof so not likely. On a metal roof, I would cover the bottom of the bolts with eternabond so nothing rubs.
@@RVwithTito so you aren't worried about the plasticore vibrating/rubbing against your roof?
Fantastic! New sub here.
What a perfectly fantastic system Brian. Thank you for saving me countless hours in Home Depot mumbling " Will this work?, would that work? ". it still took me an hour to find that transition strip ( z-bar part# 026366941009) after watching your video and pausing it at the 1st frame of home Depot to see what department you were in, lol. The only thing I added was a piece of eternabond tape between the bolts and roof and, between the front metal strip and roof. Thanks for sharing. Happy camping
At my Home Depot (actuall I have 2 nearby) those transitions were gone. Then recently restocked. You could also bend a piece of aluminum flashing to get the same result. By the way, I'm usually that guy wandering the halls of Home Depot mumbling. Cheers.
Maybe you could poke some holes in the top of the cardboard plastic to allow even more heat release.
Can't find those alluminum floor transition strips anywhere. Everything I've found is more heavy duty and not the necessary stepped shape. Any help would be appreciated
I couldn't find them either. I just bought some z flashing near the lumber department and used a vice grip to bend it to the shape I wanted.
Brian, I always love how you think outside the box and come up with something brilliant. I'm still in awe of your solar canopies but this goes beyond that. I imagine this will be a game changer for the solar community wanting the lighter weight panels. Kudos to you for your genius ideas.
Thanks so much. It was time for a new method. I hope it helps.
With all that room why wouldn’t you use a 481 watt bi facia panel that puts out some real watts and inverter 10 amps I have 8 on mine producing 90 amps DC and 45 amps AC in 110 volt
Brian. You are a genius. Nobody has done this. This is going on my pop up truck camper for sure. Thank you.
Great! Good luck.
I was skeptical about how you were going to make it stay on the roof without any drilling. I was pleased to see that it looks very secure. Your real world test has proven your system to be successful. Great job!
Is there away to remove the tape? IE if one day the panel breaks and all replacable panels have diffrent nut hole locations or if you want to sell your car/van without the panel.