Here's a story. I had an 83 Bronco with this engine and 4 speed granny. I ran it to 120K miles then wrecked it in 1988. I bought a truck with blown engine, and swapped the engine out with the one from the Bronco. It ran the next 12 years for I'm guessing 150K miles. The old truck was rusted out, so we pulled the engine and junked it. My buddy had a sawmill that needed an engine so we put the old 300 in service again. It ran the next 8 years for 8 hrs a day making lumber. Finally it threw a rod through the block. We think the oil pump failed and the guys just weren't paying attention. We called that engine Hercules.
I call BS. We bought a 86 f150 brand new with a 300 six. We took great care of it and change oil regularly 10w/30. Was only good for 225000mile. Ain't know way your gonna get 30000+ out of a carb 300 six. - mabee, possible with a fuel injected 300. They are great engines thou
I got one of these . Rebuilt and sitting in my garage. It just seaths power, with a 1940 holley . Wicked engine. It came with a Clark 260 v/0. 5 speed overdrive.
Just stumbled across this. I was actually searching for videos about the Jeep 4.0L. But YT was very insistent that I really meant a Ford 300. At any rate I found PT.1 enjoyable and am looking forward to the rest of the 'build'. Good stuff. ... subed.
EFI was the best thing to ever happen to the 300. They were tough old engines. My father was a railroad employee for years and they used those engines to power generators that ran non- stop constantly except when they were servicing them. I had one in a granny geared F-250 that loved to pull.
Thrust bearing in my 94 went out. I just had it rebuilt. Comp cam. .030 over. Runs like a Rolex now. And pulls way better. It doesn't downshif going up grades like it used to. Cam really makes a difference.
@@TerryJ2010 I wish I knew the spec, the shop i had rebuild it, I told them to document the cam and the boring and everything. They didn't. Its just the next step from stock. Yes, my 94 is still MAP sensor.
@@TerryJ2010 comp only has like 4 cams for it. Stock, 2 in the middle, and a lopper cam for like a 270/300 60s/70s hot rod like. Im not into that. The description said something like mild to mid range torque and fuel economy. Look it to on computer or call comp. The other was a real low end cam, for like 4x4s if my memory serves me. Look on their website, or call them.
@@johnhenryreber2501 does it still idle fairly nice and I notice you said it don't have downshift anymore. That's amazing. I want to wake my 87 f150 short box 4speed 4x4 up. Did you see any mileage gains or any difference in fuel usage? Im strongly debating to cam my 300 EFI or just advance the stock cam. But the stock has slow ramps and not much lift. I'm interested in the luck you've had with yours. I see there's a 252H or a 260H or 268H cam from comp cams. I think I'll stay away from the 268 as it has a lopey idle. Just wondered if you knew your cam part number or model.
This is one of the last engines built to last. I’m 180k into my 300 and I can’t wait to rebuild it. But I probably still have 120k left before it’s needed.
That's because it has a forged steel crank and it's .the same crank from a 460 cube v8 Ford low rpm torgue can't blow because not a high compression engine
The older the better with these 300 parts. Adapting a basic throttle body injection system to an older 300 like this would be perfect just for drivability reasons alone, not HP gains.
I have often heard that the best solution for an inline 6 is to have twin carbs. The length of the intake manifold means cylinders 1 and 6 are almost always getting a different mixture than cylinders 3 and 4 if there is one carb. This was popular on many inlines built for high performance, such as on Triumphs and Datsuns. The other solution was to use multi-port EFI, but that isn't easy to do, since the 300/4.9 EFI engine was not a popular option for engine swaps. GM went with V6 engines, so they could use carbs or TBI and not have the inline 6 air fuel distribution problem.
hey we all do what we can with what we have. but that part is funny. Just wait till you get the towel your holding caught in the bench grinder!!! I mean really that chore is why we have hot tanks, and pressure washers. before we begin tear down. we all live and learn...hopefully.
I collect cast Iron skillets .I use a lye bath to clean all the baked on greese and crud a 1-2 day's is all it takes .It the same as the heated caustic soda cleaning shops used to use .Dose not take car of rust .
@Robert Boulware just on a 85 mustang with carb not injected.Replaced pump with a pulley to keep belt. .In GA we don't have to get EMS test on car's 25 years are older .
I was waiting for you to put the final polish on but you missed it. You needed as your last polishing step on your ports to put a rag wheel on the high speed tool and use a very fine metal polishing compound. Your ports would have come out as smooth as a mirror and they would have had a mirror finish also. Next time you do a porting job try using a rag wheel polisher and you will never regret it. You did a fine job anyway. your attention to detail was excellent and the gasket detailing was also excellent fitting on your engine. You will definitely know the difference.
Thanks, ..I wanted to use one but I ended up milling it first,.. I still may try and polish it a bit more but I need to find the correct pistons first. Hoping to get started back on it within the next few weeks!
@@newvintage8877 From what I've seen you have done this before. I would take a 300 straight six Ford over a V-8 any day. I like it even better now that it can have a 5 speed manual. I have had many 300s and many Ford p/u trucks. I like Chevy and GMCs too but I have a soft spot for the Fords. I would like to see the finished product so I thiink I will sub. Great you put that 4 bbl intake on it too. Good Luck, keep o truckin.
I added a Mercedes gas 6 Bosch mechanical fuel injection system. The engine already had pistons, cam and 4 bbl. After fabbing a manifold and figuring out pump modifications and larger injectors it was a rocket ship in a Fairlane. I'm not sure a full port and polish is good tho. I stick to the original pocket port formula.
I had an 87, I think it was the 1st year for the electronic disturber IDK. But I remember it was the 1st without points. Had a 4 speed. 1st gear in that was torque monster..
That Offy Dual Port manifold produces great torque, but I've never seen one used with a Q-jet. (Works GREAT with a 400 cfm AFB!) Keep in mind that the vast majority of modified street engines are way over-carbed and over-cammed. This formula: CI X max RPM X .90* / 3456 is typically used to calculate necessary carb cfm for street-driven vehicles. * 90% volumetric efficiency (90% is generous for a street-driven vehicle) According to the formula, a 305ci I-6 turning 5,000 would need about a 400 cfm carb. Q-jets can run from 600-750 cfm. 455 Buick, Olds, Pontiac(?) and 472-500 ci Caddies can be 800 cfm) Anyone know what years/models (F500-up?) the forged steel crank was used in the HD300/6?
I believe the steel crank was used from late 65' to early 68', but I'm not 100% certain so dont quote me on that. Also, I've heard some industrial 300's used for air pumps, ag pumps, chippers shredders etc. Have them, but I cant verify that either. Ive also read (exhaustively) that industrial 300's have forged internals with exception to the crankshaft. Hopefully one day I'll know for sure. Thanks
I have a huge marine Q-jet, I plan on rejetting it to roughly 500cfm. Gonna try it at least,... with the little primaries, hopefully I can get some good low end torque and decent fuel mileage
Not that I'm against porting and polishing, I've talked to a few people that say that the rough casting of the aluminum atomizes the fuel and gets better performance? Any thoughts on that? Great video, that takes alot of patience.
Alot of variables when it comes to porting/polishing. The 240 head I'm p/p is cast iron, and only one side is p/p'ed. It is also carb'ed, so a different set of variables there too.. also the 300 is a low rpm engine, thus.. more variables. Hard to specify what you need as opposed to what you want with this type of work.. mine is torque, flow efficiency, engine life, and I was "time free" when I did that lol so, I thought it better to utilize that time efficiently. One could talk hours about the process of p/p and find many answers to one question. :-) certainly not my specialty, but if you youtube university search and read real world cases about this subject its basically common sense in the end depending on what you want to accomplish. :-)
Seen some comments in your vids of your rebuilding, some with their own engine blocks to rework. I just put one from the junkyard in my truck, mine had 159k miles, pretty good for a 92, but someone was hell on it. Blew head gasket, head warped .033, exhaust valve #6 chipped off possibly from the fire ring getting sucked through, and a crack in the head at exhaust valve 2, so head was junk. The block had scoring in some of the pistons, but I'm not sure I'd get around to working it over myself to run again. Think it's worthy?
Probably, just depending on how much you want to invest. You can rebuild one (old school / shade tree) for a few hundred bucks really. If this were a standard 300 I'd probably just do a quick rebuild on it.
Ive seen tuners fuck this up,on the dual port four barrel,the primaries face the cylinder head, plus you can work on the port divider, and smooth it out (fish tail it)
If I can ask what might sound like a dumb question to all of you gear heads out there, I have never seen an inline intake manifold like this with the web in the middle of the runners. What purpose does the web serve?
It is called a "dual plane", meaning under low rpm the majority of the fuel/air mixture runs on one plane or the path of least resistance enhancing lower throttle response and fuel economy. Under high rpm and heavy load the intake uses both "planes". Another way to think of it is like a 4bbl carburetor, primaries work under low rpm and secodaries open during times of heavy throttle or a heavy foot. I'm sure someone can iterate more scientifically but that's the basic way I think of it. -thanks
@@newvintage8877 Makes sense. Don't think that I've seen many inlines with a four bbl. My dad's '53 Buick had one, but that was a straight eight. I saw a Pinto 4 banger with a four bbl years ago. Motor came out of a Pinto station wagon, or whatever you'd call a Pinto in that configuration. Thanks for the information.
@@newvintage8877 The Offy is not a dual plane, it's a dualport. All 6 head ports are connected to both primaries and through another passage in the manifold to both secondaries.
Good job on port matching/porting.sorry to hear your use on evil empire carb.no upgrade on acc. pump,no 4 corner tuning.Fewer jets to chose from. Do you drive a C**y every day?
To port match the intake and head I think is what your talking about? It's just a standard intake/exhaust gasket. I was gonna use the HP gaskets but they aren't readily available and they dont fit very well, so I went stock gasket.
@@newvintage8877 I plan on just doing a stockish build with an upgraded cam maybe, do you think it's necessary? Also what all do you have to do with timing when you rebuild an engine?
I would definitely bump the cam up a tad, I'm using a 268H comp, which is pretty large. But I want the sound :-) a smaller RV type cam will do alot for these engines.
GREAT idea to use the bluing & gasket as a templet, think I would go with a HOWELL GM Fuel Injection setup or similar, chomping at the bit to see one of these motors with such a FI setup with the GM HEI distributor
Few questions, How big of a valve did you go with? Did you optimize the port area to match the new valve? What were you able to go with in the end? Not sure how big you can go on these and don't want to hit water. Curious what all you did for work on it.
I want to take advantage of the tiny primaries, and huge secondaries. It seems like a match meant to be made in theory. I'm gonna play around with the jetting, etc. But in the end it may not work out as the best but I want to find out honestly
Might check but I don't think that oil pan will work for your 4x4 truck. I put a 300 in mine and ran into the same thing. They made a 4x4 pan or a pan of a 80's year truck should work.
Nice observation! It will fit in my case (77 F150 4x4) I have a 240 in it now with the same pan and it fits, although I do have the correct rear sump pan but the dipstick supporting strap wont mate to the 66' block, so I'm gonna go with the original 66' center sump pan. Thanks
I took about .010 off the head so it wasn't bad. The engine originally had only about 70k on it so it appears to have been somewhat taken care of in the F600 it spent its life in. 17:46 annoying cat
How can you tell the HD? I have a 1980 F250 that someone put a 300 in. Supposedly came from a medium duty truck. They did drop $1000 on the Oppenheimer and Edlebrock. Originally had a 351. Any tip helpful. I am currently sucking up any old 300's I can find and moth balling them . I have three trucks with them 2 @F150, one F250, several on pallets with trans/transfer....only want carburated ones. I have owned three others in my life. Great engines. Additionally guilty of grabbing IDI's. Tired of new bullsheet.
The only way to partially ID one from the outside, that I know of is by the 2-1/2" HD exhaust log that has no heat riser flap in it, and it dumps straight down, not slightly curved back (like most of them) You would be looking in the 66-68'ish year range medium duty F600 trucks. Other than that, pulling the crank or opening the pan would be the only other way to identify one. Hope that helps
Hi the way could tell is by the exhaust dump will be a 2 " running straight down, a now industrial bends around 30* If you have 2" id there a very good chance you have one. The other is pull the oil pan look at crank journals they be much bigger the stock plus its forged. In any evey unless your planing on beefing up your 250 frame rails and putting a dump truck axle and heavy duty springs and pulling a load the size of a dump truck. The regular 300 will be just as good.
@@johnnyparker9928 egads, well I have about 60 hours in that one so it would probably upwards of $800. It wasn't fun definitely. If a guy goes slow and doesnt expect too much it's not too hard though
How did you notice that? It was like 2 seconds! Anyway, yeah they're pre-dulled harbor freight files so. My next plan is to file large hunks of aluminum with them attached to a reciprocal saw :-) hehe
Nice factory forged crank... must be a ‘65 block... good start for a high compression engine that could take a hit of NOS... ive seen some NA hot rod 300s make 300hp and 400 ft lbs and then there is the legenday NA that ran on race gas making 625 hp
If ford would have invested in the 6 like they did in australia and kept developing it with a crossflow, dohc like they did with the Barra 6, the engine would have been economical, pushed out stock naturally aspirated 400hp, 600+ft lb of torque and be able to be built up to well over 1000 hp with stock block. It's a shame, honestly. There was so much potential for the 6. Now, guys are stuck frankensteining together two ls heads to come close to yhe numbers a ford barra engine can push out.
My HOA HATES me! I just bought a bunch of land. Now that lumber prices are falling, I’m about to build a nice house and an external 4 bay garage/shop with a car lift and oil change pit.
@@newvintage8877 Love it so far,I've got a grinder and wire brush,liked the brush coming out of the drill.I've also got a plastic barrel,rebar and a battery charger.Machine shop doesn't charge me $70 bucks anymore.
They are hard to find "seasoned", haha.. I see a company out there that manufactures new ones but I think they are about 3-400 bucks. I forget the name. Eventually I'm going to try and build some headers as I dont see any decent ones out there that dont heatsoak the starter.
As far as I know, a 65-67 F600 "may" have one. Others have told me that you can find them in up to 1978 F350's but I really dont believe that and I've never seen one in that new of a truck. From all I've researched, 65-67 F600's for a forged crank. In industrial/agricultural engines, used for pumps, generators etc will have forged rods, and possibly pistons, from what I've read. Havent verified this yet, but I'm looking!
@@fordinlinestraight Not this one no no. This is a Heavy Duty version used in the F-600 dump trucks. They had a factory forged crankshaft, forged connecting rods, steel timing gears and a Heavy Duty exhaust manifold from the factory.
@@legostar55 ya the indutrials are harder to come by. Biggrr crank journals everything is oversized for yet more durability. Ha like the 300 needs that
@@newvintage8877 no just your everyday 300 straight 6. It's not an industrial 300 straight 6. Is a 300 straight 6 that goes in an F-150 and dump truck the only thing that is different is the exhaust it had a heavy duty exhaust. there's a 300 that's Industrial it was not put in vehicles it was used for water pumps generators things that you needed to run 24/7 365 the industrial 300 had forged everything the 300 that goes in your truck does not I almost four 1978 it is just a 300 is not Industrial there was no heavy duty 300 they can call with that but it was just a 300 a fantastic engine. I'm putting my 300 a 1978 Ford Granada I got mine for $100 because the guy couldn't get it started because he forgot to take down all the entire books and there was a missing hose from a diaphragm in the carburetor.
Not to argue, but your correct it's not an industrial, it's an HD, as shown in the Ford spec catalogs of the time. The HD had the forged crank, but not all of them. They may or may not have forged rods. The industrials had forged rods but may or may not have had a forged crank. Mine has the forged crank, and the HD exhaust log, other than those two items it is just a plain 300. Some of the specs are slightly different on the HD but not much. Basically if you have a 2.5 exhaust log, Ford (automotive) classified it as the HD 300. Prominent in mid to late 60's but in the books they made them up until 1978-79, which I have never seen. There's no real folklore about them other than what people keep saying. HD = high flow exhaust log. IND = forged rods and probably setup for propane, not used in automotive industry. Basic 300 = all others Still... wonderful torque engines.
Here's a story. I had an 83 Bronco with this engine and 4 speed granny. I ran it to 120K miles then wrecked it in 1988. I bought a truck with blown engine, and swapped the engine out with the one from the Bronco. It ran the next 12 years for I'm guessing 150K miles. The old truck was rusted out, so we pulled the engine and junked it. My buddy had a sawmill that needed an engine so we put the old 300 in service again. It ran the next 8 years for 8 hrs a day making lumber. Finally it threw a rod through the block. We think the oil pump failed and the guys just weren't paying attention. We called that engine Hercules.
They are one of the toughest per cid!!
4 speed granny ? 😀👍 (I googled it and understand now)
Excellent story
I call BS. We bought a 86 f150 brand new with a 300 six. We took great care of it and change oil regularly 10w/30. Was only good for 225000mile. Ain't know way your gonna get 30000+ out of a carb 300 six. - mabee, possible with a fuel injected 300. They are great engines thou
The opening sounds are excellent. Thanks for not using crappy music
That was a pleasure to watch! My 78’ 300 industrial 6 , 4spd crew cab would love to have you rebuild her back to life! Thanks for the awesome video!
Thanks
300 6 are such great built engines they are very hard to kill.
I got one of these .
Rebuilt and sitting in my garage.
It just seaths power, with a 1940 holley .
Wicked engine.
It came with a Clark 260 v/0.
5 speed overdrive.
Just stumbled across this. I was actually searching for videos about the Jeep 4.0L. But YT was very insistent that I really meant a Ford 300. At any rate I found PT.1 enjoyable and am looking forward to the rest of the 'build'. Good stuff. ... subed.
You got the rare heavy duty exhaust manifold I see! I just dropped my 300 in my truck today, 268 comp cam and 40 over
Wow.
40 over no sleeve?
Hows the hp and torque?
Whats the compression and gas mileage like?
EFI was the best thing to ever happen to the 300. They were tough old engines. My father was a railroad employee for years and they used those engines to power generators that ran non- stop constantly except when they were servicing them. I had one in a granny geared F-250 that loved to pull.
My 1992 F150 has the EFI 300" 6.. great engine!
@@dundonrl Got a 1995 F150XL with the 4.9 EFI and 5 speed manual that's still going strong with zero issues as my daily
Glad to see someone else fight with those grinding wheels. I dislike them but they do get the job done fast. Great work
He was smart leaving valves in so he didnt grind on valve seats I think he did a fine job you ever ported a head? it takes hours of tedious work.
Thrust bearing in my 94 went out. I just had it rebuilt. Comp cam. .030 over. Runs like a Rolex now. And pulls way better. It doesn't downshif going up grades like it used to. Cam really makes a difference.
Can I ask what comp camshaft you used in your 300? Are you still running your factory "speed density" EFI?
@@TerryJ2010 I wish I knew the spec, the shop i had rebuild it, I told them to document the cam and the boring and everything. They didn't. Its just the next step from stock. Yes, my 94 is still MAP sensor.
@@TerryJ2010 comp only has like 4 cams for it. Stock, 2 in the middle, and a lopper cam for like a 270/300 60s/70s hot rod like. Im not into that. The description said something like mild to mid range torque and fuel economy. Look it to on computer or call comp. The other was a real low end cam, for like 4x4s if my memory serves me. Look on their website, or call them.
@@johnhenryreber2501 does it still idle fairly nice and I notice you said it don't have downshift anymore. That's amazing. I want to wake my 87 f150 short box 4speed 4x4 up. Did you see any mileage gains or any difference in fuel usage? Im strongly debating to cam my 300 EFI or just advance the stock cam. But the stock has slow ramps and not much lift. I'm interested in the luck you've had with yours. I see there's a 252H or a 260H or 268H cam from comp cams. I think I'll stay away from the 268 as it has a lopey idle. Just wondered if you knew your cam part number or model.
I'm averaging 13.5 mpg with mine
Beautiful work on that head!
This is one of the last engines built to last. I’m 180k into my 300 and I can’t wait to rebuild it. But I probably still have 120k left before it’s needed.
I have 173 on my 2012 Ram 2500 with 6.7 Cummins. (with the OEM emissions) I can easily see 500K out of it before needed to be rebuilt.
You might get more than that if you take care of it. Mine's at 260k and I don't have any reason yet to doubt it'll do another 240k.
Got the same motor in my 90 f150. This is gunna help a lot. Great video
Ford 300/6 damn near bullet proof in my experience.
That's because it has a forged steel crank and it's .the same crank from a 460 cube v8 Ford low rpm torgue can't blow because not a high compression engine
@@davidstinson5095 The 300 I6 doesn't use the same crank as the 460....
David Stinson have you actually seen these cranks?
The older the better with these 300 parts. Adapting a basic throttle body injection system to an older 300 like this would be perfect just for drivability reasons alone, not HP gains.
I have often heard that the best solution for an inline 6 is to have twin carbs. The length of the intake manifold means cylinders 1 and 6 are almost always getting a different mixture than cylinders 3 and 4 if there is one carb. This was popular on many inlines built for high performance, such as on Triumphs and Datsuns.
The other solution was to use multi-port EFI, but that isn't easy to do, since the 300/4.9 EFI engine was not a popular option for engine swaps.
GM went with V6 engines, so they could use carbs or TBI and not have the inline 6 air fuel distribution problem.
Makes sense, if I could find one cheap I still may do that
@@newvintage8877 Well, good luck on your build, and I hope it works well no matter what parts combo you select.
Clifford has engineers to figure this out.
They've been making this manifold for years.
I knew i was watching a pro when he pulled out the wire wheel and went at the towel.
hey we all do what we can with what we have. but that part is funny. Just wait till you get the towel your holding caught in the bench grinder!!! I mean really that chore is why we have hot tanks, and pressure washers. before we begin tear down. we all live and learn...hopefully.
Normally, I go after my shirt.. I had the towel in my sights this time though, Haha.
The best engine ford 300 6 cilinder very confiability very strong
I collect cast Iron skillets .I use a lye bath to clean all the baked on greese and crud a 1-2 day's is all it takes .It the same as the heated caustic soda cleaning shops used to use .Dose not take car of rust .
@Robert Boulware just on a 85 mustang with carb not injected.Replaced pump with a pulley to keep belt. .In GA we don't have to get EMS test on car's 25 years are older .
I was waiting for you to put the final polish on but you missed it. You needed as your last polishing step on your ports to put a rag wheel on the high speed tool and use a very fine metal polishing compound. Your ports would have come out as smooth as a mirror and they would have had a mirror finish also. Next time you do a porting job try using a rag wheel polisher and you will never regret it. You did a fine job anyway. your attention to detail was excellent and the gasket detailing was also excellent fitting on your engine. You will definitely know the difference.
Thanks, ..I wanted to use one but I ended up milling it first,.. I still may try and polish it a bit more but I need to find the correct pistons first. Hoping to get started back on it within the next few weeks!
@@newvintage8877 From what I've seen you have done this before. I would take a 300 straight six Ford over a V-8 any day. I like it even better now that it can have a 5 speed manual. I have had many 300s and many Ford p/u trucks. I like Chevy and GMCs too but I have a soft spot for the Fords. I would like to see the finished product so I thiink I will sub. Great you put that 4 bbl intake on it too. Good Luck, keep o truckin.
I added a Mercedes gas 6 Bosch mechanical fuel injection system.
The engine already had pistons, cam and 4 bbl.
After fabbing a manifold and figuring out pump modifications and larger injectors it was a rocket ship in a Fairlane.
I'm not sure a full port and polish is good tho. I stick to the original pocket port formula.
Yea, take the die grinder to a $300 intake manifold instead of trimming the gasket... And did we even port match the manifold to the head??
That's a great engine
I had an 87, I think it was the 1st year for the electronic disturber IDK. But I remember it was the 1st without points. Had a 4 speed. 1st gear in that was torque monster..
My 76 has stock electronic ignition.
That Offy Dual Port manifold produces great torque, but I've never seen one used with a Q-jet. (Works GREAT with a 400 cfm AFB!) Keep in mind that the vast majority of modified street engines are way over-carbed and over-cammed.
This formula: CI X max RPM X .90* / 3456 is typically used to calculate necessary carb cfm for street-driven vehicles.
* 90% volumetric efficiency (90% is generous for a street-driven vehicle)
According to the formula, a 305ci I-6 turning 5,000 would need about a 400 cfm carb. Q-jets can run from 600-750 cfm. 455 Buick, Olds, Pontiac(?) and 472-500 ci Caddies can be 800 cfm)
Anyone know what years/models (F500-up?) the forged steel crank was used in the HD300/6?
I believe the steel crank was used from late 65' to early 68', but I'm not 100% certain so dont quote me on that. Also, I've heard some industrial 300's used for air pumps, ag pumps, chippers shredders etc. Have them, but I cant verify that either. Ive also read (exhaustively) that industrial 300's have forged internals with exception to the crankshaft. Hopefully one day I'll know for sure. Thanks
I have a huge marine Q-jet, I plan on rejetting it to roughly 500cfm. Gonna try it at least,... with the little primaries, hopefully I can get some good low end torque and decent fuel mileage
I am in the middle of pulling the 300 from my 66 f250 to rebuild it, it really just needed a head rebuild, but I decided to do the whole thing.
Buenas tarde compañero un saludo desde caracas vanezuela tengo un motro ford 300 pero quiero colocarle turbo que modificasiones tengo que hacer
1:38 when the beer from the night before finally hits.... 😂
very tedious work polishing ports but very worth it. makes a big difference
Can you add a rv cam and hydraulic lifters to a 300? In a 91 f150.
Just subscribed I can't wait for part 2
Very cool
The ol Christmas trees work best with pneumatic tools so you can keep them from flying apart.
Curious how many of the HF die grinders got burned up?
Haha.. just one so far
Not that I'm against porting and polishing, I've talked to a few people that say that the rough casting of the aluminum atomizes the fuel and gets better performance? Any thoughts on that? Great video, that takes alot of patience.
Alot of variables when it comes to porting/polishing. The 240 head I'm p/p is cast iron, and only one side is p/p'ed. It is also carb'ed, so a different set of variables there too.. also the 300 is a low rpm engine, thus.. more variables. Hard to specify what you need as opposed to what you want with this type of work.. mine is torque, flow efficiency, engine life, and I was "time free" when I did that lol so, I thought it better to utilize that time efficiently. One could talk hours about the process of p/p and find many answers to one question. :-) certainly not my specialty, but if you youtube university search and read real world cases about this subject its basically common sense in the end depending on what you want to accomplish. :-)
Ok thank you
at 10 min was the head already machined cuz it looks too clean and flat?
You have to do this to make good power with a six, nice job.
Seen some comments in your vids of your rebuilding, some with their own engine blocks to rework.
I just put one from the junkyard in my truck, mine had 159k miles, pretty good for a 92, but someone was hell on it. Blew head gasket, head warped .033, exhaust valve #6 chipped off possibly from the fire ring getting sucked through, and a crack in the head at exhaust valve 2, so head was junk. The block had scoring in some of the pistons, but I'm not sure I'd get around to working it over myself to run again. Think it's worthy?
Probably, just depending on how much you want to invest. You can rebuild one (old school / shade tree) for a few hundred bucks really. If this were a standard 300 I'd probably just do a quick rebuild on it.
Ive seen tuners fuck this up,on the dual port four barrel,the primaries face the cylinder head, plus you can work on the port divider, and smooth it out (fish tail it)
If I can ask what might sound like a dumb question to all of you gear heads out there, I have never seen an inline intake manifold like this with the web in the middle of the runners. What purpose does the web serve?
It is called a "dual plane", meaning under low rpm the majority of the fuel/air mixture runs on one plane or the path of least resistance enhancing lower throttle response and fuel economy. Under high rpm and heavy load the intake uses both "planes". Another way to think of it is like a 4bbl carburetor, primaries work under low rpm and secodaries open during times of heavy throttle or a heavy foot. I'm sure someone can iterate more scientifically but that's the basic way I think of it. -thanks
@@newvintage8877 Makes sense. Don't think that I've seen many inlines with a four bbl. My dad's '53 Buick had one, but that was a straight eight. I saw a Pinto 4 banger with a four bbl years ago. Motor came out of a Pinto station wagon, or whatever you'd call a Pinto in that configuration. Thanks for the information.
@@newvintage8877 The Offy is not a dual plane, it's a dualport. All 6 head ports are connected to both primaries and through another passage in the manifold to both secondaries.
@@OHUQTU correct, I mispoke, I always call them plane for habits sake.. but yes dual port
What was fords granny 4 speed from 60s-70s ? Would love to find one
The "Granny" four speed could have been a Borg-Warner T-10. They also used 3 speed Saginaw and Dagenham manuals.
My dad still has an f100 stepside w360 and the 4sbd Awesome old truck
Maybe an NP435 normally or T-18
Cool I think we’ve found it the np435
Easiest way to check it (without climbing underneath, is the cane retainer. They are different from NP435 and a T18
Would you want to do another?. If what the cost ?
I have one more lined up after this one. This one so far has been 2200 roughly..
Good job on port matching/porting.sorry to hear your use on evil empire carb.no upgrade on acc. pump,no 4 corner tuning.Fewer jets to chose from. Do you drive a C**y every day?
Haha.. as a matter of fact I do.
I drive nothing made after 1972..1 71 gets 22 mpg.it's test pup.390.2. 200 62 ranchero.5 speed.34 mpg..other..Insureance on themmis less than $300
What is that gasket like thing you were using? I'm about to rebuild my 84 as my first engine rebuild and I'm trying to learn everything i can.
To port match the intake and head I think is what your talking about? It's just a standard intake/exhaust gasket. I was gonna use the HP gaskets but they aren't readily available and they dont fit very well, so I went stock gasket.
@@newvintage8877 I plan on just doing a stockish build with an upgraded cam maybe, do you think it's necessary? Also what all do you have to do with timing when you rebuild an engine?
I would definitely bump the cam up a tad, I'm using a 268H comp, which is pretty large. But I want the sound :-) a smaller RV type cam will do alot for these engines.
Cool vid though I feel I picked up 5 different cancers while grinding filing etc that will prob catch up to me in a few years
Use nitrile gloves, and N-95 mask/respirator.
Decking the head would have had no advantage?
Yes it should bump the static compression ration up a little, mines shaved about .013 mainly just to make sure it was straight though.
GREAT idea to use the bluing & gasket as a templet, think I would go with a HOWELL GM Fuel Injection setup or similar, chomping at the bit to see one of these motors with such a FI setup with the GM HEI distributor
Few questions, How big of a valve did you go with? Did you optimize the port area to match the new valve? What were you able to go with in the end? Not sure how big you can go on these and don't want to hit water. Curious what all you did for work on it.
Hell yes on the Quadrajet 👍
A.D.D, or O.C.D???
Some of both 🤣
Why a quadrajet carb on a 300 i6
I want to take advantage of the tiny primaries, and huge secondaries. It seems like a match meant to be made in theory. I'm gonna play around with the jetting, etc. But in the end it may not work out as the best but I want to find out honestly
how much difference does it make with that polished head?
Para donde gira el abanico 0:57
Part II?
Coming soon ...er, maybe, um.. hopefully. Working on it :-)
What is the purple stuff?
Might check but I don't think that oil pan will work for your 4x4 truck. I put a 300 in mine and ran into the same thing. They made a 4x4 pan or a pan of a 80's year truck should work.
Nice observation! It will fit in my case (77 F150 4x4) I have a 240 in it now with the same pan and it fits, although I do have the correct rear sump pan but the dipstick supporting strap wont mate to the 66' block, so I'm gonna go with the original 66' center sump pan. Thanks
I'm looking for a 300...do you know where i could find one
It was a privilege to see you work...is there a part 5?
I have a 330 6 in my rat rod. I built a tri-power with 3 Carter yf carbs
17:46 who dat?
Also, did you find some degree of warpage in the head? Or did you just get really lucky with it?
I took about .010 off the head so it wasn't bad. The engine originally had only about 70k on it so it appears to have been somewhat taken care of in the F600 it spent its life in. 17:46 annoying cat
How can you tell the HD? I have a 1980 F250 that someone put a 300 in. Supposedly came from a medium duty truck. They did drop $1000 on the Oppenheimer and Edlebrock. Originally had a 351. Any tip helpful. I am currently sucking up any old 300's I can find and moth balling them . I have three trucks with them 2 @F150, one F250, several on pallets with trans/transfer....only want carburated ones. I have owned three others in my life. Great engines. Additionally guilty of grabbing IDI's. Tired of new bullsheet.
The only way to partially ID one from the outside, that I know of is by the 2-1/2" HD exhaust log that has no heat riser flap in it, and it dumps straight down, not slightly curved back (like most of them) You would be looking in the 66-68'ish year range medium duty F600 trucks. Other than that, pulling the crank or opening the pan would be the only other way to identify one. Hope that helps
Hd is more found In the industrial application. My opinion is there are not necessary the stock 300 is a work horse.
@@fordinlinestraight HD was found in medium duty trucks. The Industrial 300 was found in industrial applications. Two differently spec'd motors.
Hi the way could tell is by the exhaust dump will be a 2 " running straight down, a now industrial bends around 30*
If you have 2" id there a very good chance you have one. The other is pull the oil pan look at crank journals they be much bigger the stock plus its forged. In any evey unless your planing on beefing up your 250 frame rails and putting a dump truck axle and heavy duty springs and pulling a load the size of a dump truck. The regular 300 will be just as good.
@@fordinlinestraight !
Is that a 240 head?what would you charge to do this to another 300 head?
Yes
@@newvintage8877 what do you charge?
@@johnnyparker9928 egads, well I have about 60 hours in that one so it would probably upwards of $800. It wasn't fun definitely. If a guy goes slow and doesnt expect too much it's not too hard though
$800 for 60 hrs of work is a steal. That's like $13.30/hr.
@@jjbailey01 - minus 50% in taxes paid to city, county, state, the US government, and Bernie. Everyone has to pay taxes. :)
Somebody tell this guy a file only cuts one direction and dulls in the other...
How did you notice that? It was like 2 seconds! Anyway, yeah they're pre-dulled harbor freight files so. My next plan is to file large hunks of aluminum with them attached to a reciprocal saw :-) hehe
Thatd a 240 head! Wish i could find one !
Ford six cylinder engines are bullet proof.
anyone know if the 300ci and Australian 250ci head are interchangeable?
No the 240 go to the 300.
No - they are completely different engines
Nice factory forged crank... must be a ‘65 block... good start for a high compression engine that could take a hit of NOS... ive seen some NA hot rod 300s make 300hp and 400 ft lbs and then there is the legenday NA that ran on race gas making 625 hp
If ford would have invested in the 6 like they did in australia and kept developing it with a crossflow, dohc like they did with the Barra 6, the engine would have been economical, pushed out stock naturally aspirated 400hp, 600+ft lb of torque and be able to be built up to well over 1000 hp with stock block. It's a shame, honestly. There was so much potential for the 6. Now, guys are stuck frankensteining together two ls heads to come close to yhe numbers a ford barra engine can push out.
السلام عليكم ورحمه الله وبركاته كيف الحال شباب
What brand of coffee do you drink? That's pretty quick work with those tools!😊
Nice to see that your street doesn't have Karens or Darrens on it to whine about your activity. I'm sure handymen get harassed all the time in HOA's.
My HOA HATES me! I just bought a bunch of land. Now that lumber prices are falling, I’m about to build a nice house and an external 4 bay garage/shop with a car lift and oil change pit.
only 2 things will survive after nuclear fall out:
1. Roaches
2. Ford 300s
I have a question for you. Do you have any interest in selling the front engine mount ?
I do, but it has a small crack in it.
@@newvintage8877 No worries. I can repair it.
@@johnchadwicktilton shoot me a message and I'll get your info.
Can you still message through RUclips ? I thought that was discontinued ?
@@newvintage8877 I sent you an E-Mail did you get it ?
Lol dude, please go buy a $10 grinder from harbor freight and put a wire wheel on it. That drill isn't cutting it.
Lol, I did. Its later in the video. The drill was just preliminary scrubbing cleaning up all the goo. Wish I had a wash tank!
You mean a Dremel tool
@@davidstinson5095 Dremel takes forever. Die grinder is definitely the way to go.
Five minutes of angry grinder noises mixed in with hyper angry grinder wielding bug.
Needs more grinder
I don't think I'd ever let you work on a motor of mine damn scary watching out close you got those valve seats....
But, ... I never hit one :-)
Plus I still have to lap them
If you build motors like you comment on youtube, I doubt anyone would want you to build a motor for them.
background music?
Why do you need background music?
You could have saved a bunch of labor having it hotanked....
It was hot tanked eventually. But initially I just wanted it clean(er)
@@newvintage8877 Love it so far,I've got a grinder and wire brush,liked the brush coming out of the drill.I've also got a plastic barrel,rebar and a battery charger.Machine shop doesn't charge me $70 bucks anymore.
Este video eso para contemplar el motor 🤔🙄😒
Would love to have the exhaust manifold
They are hard to find "seasoned", haha.. I see a company out there that manufactures new ones but I think they are about 3-400 bucks. I forget the name. Eventually I'm going to try and build some headers as I dont see any decent ones out there that dont heatsoak the starter.
@@newvintage8877 yeah theres a company that makes them by me but urs has the plug on it and theres doesnt
@@newvintage8877
Just heat tape the starter.
You're better off with the dual manifolds off of a fuel-injected 4.9/300...
Damn, where did you find that engine? Can you give me some tips on where to find one.
As far as I know, a 65-67 F600 "may" have one. Others have told me that you can find them in up to 1978 F350's but I really dont believe that and I've never seen one in that new of a truck. From all I've researched, 65-67 F600's for a forged crank. In industrial/agricultural engines, used for pumps, generators etc will have forged rods, and possibly pistons, from what I've read. Havent verified this yet, but I'm looking!
Old farm fields
Used! you can find these engines in many vehicles
@@fordinlinestraight Not this one no no. This is a Heavy Duty version used in the F-600 dump trucks. They had a factory forged crankshaft, forged connecting rods, steel timing gears and a Heavy Duty exhaust manifold from the factory.
@@legostar55 ya the indutrials are harder to come by. Biggrr crank journals everything is oversized for yet more durability. Ha like the 300 needs that
Dude, where is the next one?
Maybe in the next month or so... Its been a royal pain to do this engine lol.. But it should be a grunt when its done.
I got a job cleaning heads but that's not what it was.
that intake manifold was way off
It was off way more than I would have imagined!
@@newvintage8877 i can tell you were surprised maybe
All that machine n use dam channel locks on bolts??? Just don't get it!!!
Old knees, tool box in other room. Tooo lazy :-)
@@newvintage8877 gotcha there my go to's R two pair of vise grips!! Blunt nose and. Needle nose!!!
Why the hell are you polishing the combustion chambers . Clean them up and lap them.
I want to make sure the kerosene burns cleanly
@@newvintage8877 it's a gasoline engine.
With polished chambers :-)
@@moegreenbl he see all those high and low spots in a combustion chamber that creates uneven Heat which can cause the head to crack.
Surely you wasn't tearing down a engine on Sunday! You ought to been in church dude. You've messed that engine up from the get-go. Just saying!
I went to church that day, .... and raided the collection plate!
OCD
Definitely!
Not HD just a 300.
Yep, HD
@@newvintage8877 no just your everyday 300 straight 6. It's not an industrial 300 straight 6. Is a 300 straight 6 that goes in an F-150 and dump truck the only thing that is different is the exhaust it had a heavy duty exhaust. there's a 300 that's Industrial it was not put in vehicles it was used for water pumps generators things that you needed to run 24/7 365 the industrial 300 had forged everything the 300 that goes in your truck does not I almost four 1978 it is just a 300 is not Industrial there was no heavy duty 300 they can call with that but it was just a 300 a fantastic engine. I'm putting my 300 a 1978 Ford Granada I got mine for $100 because the guy couldn't get it started because he forgot to take down all the entire books and there was a missing hose from a diaphragm in the carburetor.
Not to argue, but your correct it's not an industrial, it's an HD, as shown in the Ford spec catalogs of the time. The HD had the forged crank, but not all of them. They may or may not have forged rods. The industrials had forged rods but may or may not have had a forged crank. Mine has the forged crank, and the HD exhaust log, other than those two items it is just a plain 300. Some of the specs are slightly different on the HD but not much. Basically if you have a 2.5 exhaust log, Ford (automotive) classified it as the HD 300. Prominent in mid to late 60's but in the books they made them up until 1978-79, which I have never seen. There's no real folklore about them other than what people keep saying.
HD = high flow exhaust log.
IND = forged rods and probably setup for propane, not used in automotive industry.
Basic 300 = all others
Still... wonderful torque engines.
some one hsa been in the head before
Nope, I pulled er' off a never cracked open 66'
ok i seen the valve seat lock in never seen factory do that before
@@jeffreyweatherwax6815 yeah, I've had this whole engine assembled and disassembled a few times because of one reason or another
Please seek help from a qualified mechanic. This is not even close to how it's done, at all, ever.
That statement is incorrect, because this is how it was done.
مول ريع
Yes