How to Build the ULTIMATE Ford Straight Six Motor - Part 1: Basic Block Building (SORRY ABOUT MUSIC)
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- Опубликовано: 7 янв 2023
- Sorry in advance about the music! It was out first time editing with background music. We promise our other videos aren't so obnoxious.
It’s finally time! Time to show you how to make the ULTIMATE ford Straight 6 motor build. We’ll show you step by step how to build up your long maligned straight six motor into a lean, mean, little horsepower machine that will EASILY get you to 200k+ miles while still performing well out on the street or out on the track. You can tailor this build with more or less aggressive cams for the drag strip, adding boost, or just good ol’ highway cruising.
A huge thank you to our sponsors (listed below) who have supported us over the last year in this motor build. We couldn’t have done it without you and you have been absolutely wonderful to work with.
Be sure to check out the channel Ellie’s Garage if you’re interested in how to install the Holley Sniper 1100 throttle body EFI system. She’s got tons of great content and was a big inspiration for our own build. • Swapping My Autolite 1...
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Parts Used In This Build
Cylinder Head: www.vintageinlines.com/produc...
Intake Manifold: www.vintageinlines.com/produc...
Headers/Exhaust: www.vintageinlines.com/produc...
Camshaft: claysmithcams.com/h-6474-0-b-...
Lifters: claysmithcams.com/clay-smith-...
Timing Chain: claysmithcams.com/product-id-...
Roller Rockers: www.vintageinlines.com/produc...
store.yellaterra.com.au/1-6-r...
Pistons: uempistons.com/product/4070/S...
Water Pump: www.vintageinlines.com/produc...
Oil Pump: www.vintageinlines.com/produc...
ARP Head Studs: www.vintageinlines.com/produc...
claysmithcams.com/arp-250-ach...
ARP Crank Main Studs: claysmithcams.com/arp-200-msk...
ARP Grade 8 Stainless Hardware: alloyboltz.com/product/ford-1...
Thermostat Housing: www.vintageinlines.com/produc...
Harmonic Balancer: www.damperdudes.net/harmonic-...
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A HUGE thank you to those who support the channel and make this all possible.
SUPPORTERS/SPONSORS:
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Instagram: / holleyperformance
Detroit Speed: www.detroitspeed.com/
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Outro Music: www.bensound.com
@HolleyPerformance @Traycejean3 @StreetorTrackLLC @detroitspeed @YellaterraTV @mishimoto
@Donut we may have borrowed James' face for a hot second. 😉 
Авто/Мото
I've been unsubbed from you twice now.. Frustrating. You have some of the best content out there for us Gearheads.
Sorry that keeps happening to you! We're glad you like the content though!
@@enginegremlin just keep at it, and I'll keep subbing. Haha
@@enginegremlin You should've used a 'torque plate' before you bored out the cylinders.
@@autodidact537 Does a torque plate actually exist for a 200? The machine shop I use has never seen one.
@@enginegremlin, why did you use timing chain instead of the gear system?
I used the aircraft sealant as instructed and so far complete success! Not a single aircraft, or even a piece of one, has shown up in an oil change.
🤣
I want to see a 300 in a Maverick, if at all possible.
come on man....now i want to pull the old 300 out of the f150 sitting in my back yard and rebuild it. Just what i need, another project. great. really enjoyed this series. well done, sir.
The 300 is the best American 6 cylinder ever made...! I own a fleet of 94-96 f-series with 300cid's and 5-speeds...! All of them are over 300,000 miles... 3 of them are over 500,000... 1 of them, a 94 f150, has over 700,000 miles on the original engine... Of coarse, all the normal maintenance items have needed work... I think all of them have new clutches, and most have had the Trans shifting 'balls' re-done, but zero engine issues, but we make sure none will be overheated because they hugged a lot outta the heads for the efi motors...! I will never own another work truck...! 300's are bulletproof...!!! And I'm a Chevy guy...!!!!! Thanks, keep up your awesomeness and go enjoy some nature today...! Don't forget to compliment someone today...
I 100% concur with you sir but I would put it as a tie with the AMC 4.0L that came in Jeeps.
@enginegremlin oh yeah, I had an 89 Jeep Comanche before I got my first Ford... They're great too...!
For the novice builder.
You probably don't have a dedicated ring setter.
When gapping rings it's important to keep rings square in the bore. I usually take one piston. (Providing it has a flat section around the perimeter) install the second ring temporarily invert it and use this to push the ring I'm gapping uniformly down the cylinder.
I also gap rings to the specific cylinders they'll be living in. Just in case there is slight variation in cylinder sizing. Remember .001" in diameter still equals .003" in circumference. This probably won't matter with 95% of street builds but if you start hitting the strips every ho counts and it's a good practice to follow same with pistons, rods etc..
he went to jerads
This has got to be my favorite RUclips video to date… it took me forever to find this and I love geeking out and watching this stuff… and my wife rolls her eyes and leaves the room
Why didn't you just build the 300. Is the 300 fiscally bigger?
@@GrandPitoVic I’m not the builder… just a viewer… no further questions please
My heart fluttered when i saw that engine shake while honing those crank bearings 🙃
for anyone running a stock carbed 300 the carb is two piece top and bottom and the two screws underneath can work a bit loose causing lean running, easy fix , keep an offset screwdriver in the glove box, not talking about the cover screws.
Funny you mentioned that. I have been tighten mine down in my 70 Ford Highboy wood truck for years. Probably should just take it off and tighten them up for good. Lol
Great video work. I'll be continuing to watch.
I have built almost the same engine. I could not get the Vintage Inline head, so I went with the stock small log with the Offenhauser adapter 3 Carbs, (Weber 34ICT) I can't remember what Clay smith cam I purchased but sounds the same as yours. Running a T5 Trans, 8 Inch rear end with 3.55 gear. The one mistake I did was running a stock 9-inch clutch, it will not hold. Just cursing around is fine but pour the gas to it and it won't hold. I want to hear what clutch you're going to use. I think you may lose some of your lopey idle with that EFI. Great build. I can't wait to hear it run. I get more people stopping to check out inline 6 then my friend who has the same car with a V8. The cool thing is they sound the same at idle. then we open the hoods, and they freak out.
That is awsome brother. I've been wanting to build a 300 for years. It's different.
The ultimate Ford six is the Aussie Turbo Barra engine!
No it's a cross flow head 300, 600+hp N/A.
Those Aussies don’t fool around when it comes to their straight six engines
@@jonathansparks3386 yeah for thier real performance models they drop a Forced Induction American V8.
Sure unless you live in the USA...
Is there a Video on this. Love Rusty 🇺🇸
I like that the video shows the assembler holing the sealer in a box.
It keeps his hands clean and helps prevent potential drips.
Good visual tip!
yup, the vid has dozens of tips, very nice addition to the "straight foreward" building stuff!!
Great video and awesome engine. They make great power and with a nice cam the sound is amazing.
You should do a build of Ford Barra: The Australian Straight-Six Capable of Unleashing Thousands of Horses. A truly awesome motor.
Good luck getting one, then need a custom harness and engine controller from what i hear
The ultimate Ford straight six came out OE in Ford Falcons in Australia, it's called the Barra.
Yes, Barra, is short to Kooka barra, I think, ......or I just now made that up,...Good'day!! LOL ;D
@@ronschlorff7089 Named after a large predatory fish called the Barramundi. Which, as things go, is a pretty awesome fish.
@@M3rVsT4H sounds good, I see why they dropped the "mundi" part of the name off though, cuz you could only drive it one day a week, ...on mundi! LOL ;D
@@ronschlorff7089 Not a lot of people know this.. But that's what the kookaburras have been laughing about the whole time. :D
@@M3rVsT4H love that bird, me being a bird nut who actually studied birds for a living, long time ago. Not that species but ones in CA. Funny thing about that bird is its call was often used as jungle background sounds in the old "Jungle Jim" and "Tarzan" type movies, and it is a drier land species, right! :D
This is the best motor ford ever made, I wish they would bring it back with today’s technology.
You can make it with today’s technology. I’m doing it ;)
But that would ruin it. :'(
Love this. I did this on My 79 300 6 on my 79 F 100 ! Used A Opffenhouser split exhaust and 4 B intake. She was awesome and Beautiful
Hoping to start my own 300 build this year
Awesome. Love to see this kind of content
Glad you enjoy it!
@@enginegremlin if you had a basic engine, stock and had only four "cheap-ish" "bolt-ons" to make it a better "air pump" as you said, or more reliable for staring and driving what would that be? Headers, EFI, electronic ignition? Something else?
@yeboscrebo4451 So I'll (Jon) be going over this in greater detail in an upcoming episode of "Ask the Experts" in a few weeks once the editing is done but let me give you the highlights. So in order of importance, assuming you are not using the Vintage Inlines aluminum head, they are as follows:
1. Replace the carburetor and the distributor. The Autolite 1100 is basically a lawn mower carb and peters out around 2000-2200 RPM. The distributor has no centrifugal advance which means it doesn't really know how fast the engine is going and it doesnt know hard hard you're pushing on gas. So a Pertronix distributor or a Holley Hyperspark is a great upgrade. For the carb, I REALLY like the Holley Sniper 1100 EFI throttle body. I think it makes is SO much more driveable and stratup reliable but if you wanna stay with a carb, you can shave off the old 1V adapter, put on a 2V, and us a Weber carb. The sniper is good for up to about 160-170 HP.
2. Get new headers. The exhaust manifold is TERRIBLE and deadheads and is undersized and goes to a single collector.
3. Get a new camshaft. Clay Smith Cams has a TON of straight 6 grinds that you can use for any performance goals you can imagine on this motor and they are pretty cheap (~$200-$300).
4. Get yourself some high ratio rocker arms. We use the Yella Terra arms but you can technically also use the Rocker Arms Unlimited set.
So these are all bolt on easy mods (save for the camshaft which requires some engine disassembly) and they are all relatively inexpensive save for the Sniper EFI throttle body which is about $900. I hope this has been helpful on this question.
@@enginegremlin Awesome, man, thanks for the great advice for All of us to bolt on and not break the bank!! Look forward to the other episode you mentioned. "Lawn mower engine carb", pretty funny!! LOL :D
I love the color.
RTV in those corners of pan gasket man! Also a dab on ends of the main seals where they join. (Hondabond is the best)
Nice job, allthough the orange almost killed me, Blastphamy. Brings back memories when I rebuilt the 200 in my 79 Fairmont back in 91. Smootest, and quietest running engine I have ever owned. leaning on the fender I remenber checking the tailpipe to see if it was running or not.. it was. Worked great no power (uggg late 70's) couldn't pass a gas station. After i was done i think if you touched the engine with white gloves you would get the engine dirty. Had 444,000 km when i sold the car
Very professional done video. Don't think I could ever afford to build my 300 for my old 84 F 150 plow truck. I'm an 80 year old lifelong wrench bender. Was building racing motors in the 60s. Dandahermit
I would have used brass drains on the block, seen the socket type rust out, all made with chinese metal.
Picked up a 250 with a c4 for $20 couple days before this video went up. It's excellent timing going to be taking a lot from this series rebuilding it.
$20? Nice score!
@Engine Gremlin yep! It is locked up and has sat outside for an unknown amount of time but the distributor drive gear looked clean and the oil in it didnt have a water layer, so I think its recoverable. And I mean its worth it just for the fun of trying at that price.
@@42Goopy42 well heck, start with our "how to unsieze am engine" video. Just don't smash your fingernail like Jon did. Uncle Tony's Garage also has a good video for that as well.
@Engine Gremlin did see utg's will have to check yalls out as well. Think I'm gonna start with a cylinder oil soak for a day or two. Just to see if its not that bad. Basically live in a desert so its got a decent chance.
Might pull the c4 apart eventually. Prefer a good manual myself, but those c4's are still cool.
@@enginegremlin UTG, thanks for the laugh, that guy is a hoot, I watch mainly for comic relief!! My wife's son in law, another car guy, has one of his shirts, says: "I Hate Cars"!! Don't we all? Like the old saying from back in the day of hot rodding: "If it has tits or wheels, it's gonna be trouble"!! LOL :D
G'day just found your channel and subbed mate
With the block upside down the bearing shells and rear seal are not the lower, but the upper.
Regarding ring gap, you are better with a couple thousandths extra than a couple of thousandths tight. Power will be the same if a little wide as what is recommended, but you will have slightly more blowby. A couple of thousandths will be minimal.
The music 🎼 is perfect 👍
Very pretty build, I had many of this type of motor including the 170ci, 200ci, 221ci, 250ci and I missed out getting the 300ci. My current daily driver has the 245ci (4.0 litre) Barra engine.
I had a two late 80's F series pickups with the 300 six , good engines almost the same torque as the 302 and a bit less HP.
@@stevecook7551 what is weight dif between the 300 six and 302?
@@chrispbacon3042 yes, I have two cars with a 302 V8 and one with a 200 six, and another car with a 390 V8. So, I know the diff, LOL. I was just interested in the relative weight between to the two blocks I mentioned! For suspensions and other front-end concerns that is! :D
@@ronschlorff7089 I miss read your question my appology.
@@chrispbacon3042 No problemo!! Love your last name; it's my favorite "food group" LOL ;D
Part 1 and 1 "of 7"...
I'm hoping there are parts 3 to 7 to fill out the list
Great video
Great job Matt. I love getting oils and shop products from estate sales. Also, one thing I'm hearing is that your Christmas list this year holds a lot of John Deere green products, correct?😂 Great job as always. Really looking forward to seeing the finished product
Horse power did a build on 300 industrial six with turbo man that thing was an animal.
Love that build! Except for the white paint job. Haha.
We actually got to talk with one of the PN guys who helped with the Subrurban build they used that motor on
@@enginegremlin putting that engine in a Suburban, now that IS "sacrilege"!! LOL
@@ronschlorff7089 yeeeeeah. I wasn't super hot on the car they put it in...
Good 101 build 👍
Thanks!
Ford Australia Barra. Turbo FPV F6 310 kws standard.
what is a kws? is that short for Kiwi's, LOL ? ;D
@@ronschlorff7089
310 kilowatts = 416 horsepower.
@@Rob-fc9wg A decent amount! How much is that in Roo power? :D
@@ronschlorff7089 Take notice..... you were ignored....
@@jedclampett6466 I guess not, thanks!! LOL ;D
The orange paint made it great..
Australian here. I had a 250 cross-flow in a 1978 Cortina and it was a missile. I had no idea there was such a thing as a 300 until just a few years ago and have wondered if the 300 and 250 are of the same family or are they completly different, if a cross-flow head would bolt onto a 300 block and if not, which could make more power; 50 extra cubes or a cross-flow head.
Completely different engine family, unfortunately. There were a few crossflow heads made for the 300 though and some factory forged crank and rod motors too. If you can get a 250 crossflow head to the states I'll get a 300 back to you lol. 300s are fantastic motors. I think we regard it the same way yall regard the barra.
So this is an excellent question with a rather long answer. Would you mind if we used it for one of our upcoming Q&A episodes so we can answer it in greater depth? Happy to answer now if not.
@@enginegremlin By all means. I'll look forward to it.
The 240 and 300's were available in Australia in 6 cylinder F series pick ups.
@@stephenvelden295 Yes, I have a friend with a 300 Effie.
Rebuilding a 300 right now in my garage for my 87 f150, hoping to be driving by spring
The 300 is one of my FAVORITE motors of all time. Right next to the AMC 4.0, 2JZ, ford 289, LT1, RB26, E46, Saab B234, Honda B series, and the chevy small block V8. Power Nation did a great 300 build you should check out if you havent.
@@enginegremlin I've got a gorgeous '95 swb f150 and currently shopping machine shops to do Powernations build. Not looking for the third stage (turbo) just a daily driver, pull a boat. What should a build like that cost or just getting me 200ish HP & 300 ft. lb. of torque? Possible on cheap gas?
so the '95 Ford 300 I6 fortunately had fuel injection and already made around 150 HP and 260 torque, so you don't have that far to go. And they also did it on the 2300-3500 RPM range. To get a '95 300 up to the numbers you're aiming for there are two to three major upgrades that are pretty cheap to implement to get you there, all without having to redo the block portion. The biggest issue with Ford's inline motors is airflow. The intakes and exhaust were just poor designs. Fortunately for the fuel injected ones, their intake manifold wasn't too bad, but the exhaust was still garbage. Getting new headers in a dual 3-to-1 config is great or you can even get much better headers that converge to 1 if you dont want to redo the exhaust. the old header design has really short runners with sharp angles that immediately deadhead and undersized diameters. Those headers usually run between $200-$600. The next thing that you can do is replace your rockers to a higher ratio set for more valve movement and better airflow. A higher ratio set is usually around $200-$300. Those two things should get you to your goals but if you wanna take the next step, you can put in a more aggressive cam and play with the timing. A new cam is also around $200-$300. So all in all to get to the numbers you wanna hit, you'll be in for about $400-$1200 and you can do the first two yourself if you've got some engine know-how. There are TONS of other mods that you can do to really boost the power on a 300 but then you're starting to get into more costly and complicated modifications.
Regarding your question about cheap gas, the 300's had a compression ratio of around 8.8-8.9 so running low octane pump gas shouldn't be an issue.
@@enginegremlin There are also a lot of really great people in forums on facebook groups that know a bunch of specifics for each year and model. I am part of a bunch and lot of really good gear heads in there. Id love to slap on a turbo but funds are going to restrict that. Really excited RUclips popped you up in the recommendations. going to enjoy the build
@@jacksonrezab For sure! I've been AWOL on those forums the last 9 months but they're a great resource. Glad you're excited about the build.
How did you get the head? I've been waiting for five years +/- on the aluminum head from Classic Inlines? 😭
Mint
I love a straight six. I think they are the best engines ever made but in the Fords case because of the poor design of the head and trying to find a good replacement option is so frustrating. They are either out of stock , not made, or cost so much that its just easier to just replace it with a 302 . They are plentiful and cheap.
Unless you live in Australia then I would say build the straight 6 with the junkyard heads they have access too.
I dont understand why no one like Edelbrock cant make a nice crossflow head for them . I think they would sale nicely as everyone that has one would love to dump that piss poor head and intake for something better. A company like that could keep them in stock as well and not have a 3 year waiting list for a head that might or might not get made again.
That's right Fords or pieces of s*** with their oiling system and their cylinder heads you can't get any power out of them I don't know why they're wasting their time with this 300 SIX CYLINDER GET ALL KIND OF POWER OUT OF A CHEVROLET SIX
Getting anything cast in small batches is nearly impossible, especially in the US.
thanks
.020-.025 for performance applications, especially with pistons that place the top ring higher in the bore at TDC, this region is hotter in closed deck block engines, and causes more ring and piston expansion, increasing the likelihood of ring end contact, and pulling the top off of the piston in heavy load/ high temp operation, blowing the insulator and electrode out of the spark plug, leaving a hole in your fender
I swear by that air craft grade sealant and the Indian hean gasket maker brands. It's nice too because once it gets tacky it will hold the gaskets in place and it looks better than a big glob of silicone.
As a new guy here, how do I get one of these ford 300 inline 6. Trying to develop a hybrid vehicle to house this motor as the main powerplant with a manual transmission.
Ultimate Falcon 6. For a pushrod start with a 250 crossflow alloy head, for a Falcon a FG Turbo twin cam engine [aka Barra]
You make a fair point. If you truly want to make the highest performing Ford six, then the Barra is the way to go, but trying to get your hands on one here in the US without importing it is like finding a unicorn. The Australian 250 crossflow head is also great as it solves the exhaust base heating issue and they had better airflow plus a 2V carb but it's still cast iron (heavy) and trying to find one is getting harder and harder and you still have to import them. And if you wanted to use the Australian aluminum crossflow head, you had to use the Australian crossflow block (and adapt it to the US mounts and bell housings) OR do some US block mods.
This build was more aimed at creating top notch power for US inline sixes based on parts readily available here in the US. We'll go over all the top end mods that we did in part 2. Let us know what you think, what you agree/disagree with, and if we could have done better in part 2.
@@enginegremlin Good points, nice "relevant" to US build here. And you can still find these old Ford sixes in junk yards, especially here in AZ, still attached in a rusty hulk of a falcon, comet, truck, etc., for a few hundred. And you get the whole car, complete with a few usable parts and some rattle snakes thrown in, just for good luck!! LOL.
That buy could be half the cost of the shipping alone for anything acquired from down under, if you could find one, plus it would likely be "sight unseen", and we've all been "burned" that way! ;D LOL
I have a twin turbo fuel injected 300 with coil near plug ignition running on a speeduino ecu. I mounted a custom 36-1 trigger wheel and get the position using a 3 wire GM crank position sensor.
I built a custom intake/exhaust manifold for it as well (mainly to get some TIG/fabrication experience).
I'm still ironing out a few issues (fixing leaks etc.) but the engine is sounding pretty good. Stock internals for now, but I'm kinda curious what the weak links gonna be.
Wow. You got pictures, IG, etc where we can check it out?
Any info on using the GM crank position sensor? I'm in the beginning stages of a very similar build, and one of the things I'm trying to figure out is whether or not to go with EFI, and what options I have to make it work if I decide to.
Just got a welder the other day and have been practicing, because this build is going to take a lot of fab work. I'm also building a 300, possibly turbo'd, for my 65 Mustang to replace the 200 I have in it. Any info I can find about what options I have, I'm all ears for.
There was a lot of block movement (shaking) when he was line honing, is that normal?
What work if any did you happen to do to the crankshaft did you have it refurbished/resurfaced? Love the build and curious to what kind of HP you think this thing will make and are you looking to do any forced induction with it down the line?
Just a polish on the journals. The 65 through 68 came with nodular iron cranks and forged rods so they have plenty of strength out of the gate, not to me to mention the balanced nature of the i6 let's you really spin up the revs. I reckon we'll be around 250-275 NA with some room to grow. We'll be doing a turbo later (part 5 or 6) which will easily out it at 350. We have two more builds in development that we're targeting 750ish and 1500ish but those won't be ready for another 18 months.
@@enginegremlin That's awesome man hoping to have something similar to this build in the near future as soon as the head is open to the market. I'm excited to see what comes with this build. I've seen the build that Powernation done to a 300 to make 500hp to the crank be crazy to start seeing what the 200 can do when the head hits the open market with different builds.
Did I miss the part about cylinder head work, including milling off the old log intake? Part 2?
Part 2 on Sunday.
Best intro Eva. Lee majors would be proud
Yup, you caught that too. Hope it was not a "7-figure" engine build however!! LOL ;D
True.
Steve Austin will be that man , take us back
@@deborahchesser7375 That’s so true. Thanks Oscar Goldman lol 😂 lol 😂
@@deborahchesser7375 yes, take us all back to when tv shows were worth watching!
6 million dollar man intro hooked me, childhood throw back. Just subbed, keep it up.
I am tearing my 223 apart right now and I came across this video…. I was just going to clean it up and rebuild with OEM parts… But this has me very intrigued…. How much does a build like this cost? Are we talking couple grand or looking at 5K plus?
Love the Australian 250ci 2v head , cast in Australia in 1976 but in 1979 Ford Australia redesigned the head on the 200ci and 250ci six , made it cross flow, Cleveland V8 style canted valve heads designed by Honda , in 1982 cast in alloy and multi point EFI , then in 1988 redesigned the heads again with Hemi valves and a single over head cam , called the 200 ci the 3.2 litre and the 250 ci the 4.0 intec engines then in 2002 put Double Overhead Head Cams and 4 valves per cylinder on then later a Garret Turbo , the Barra was born , but the Barra will bolt anywhere the 200 six did same engine mounts, bellhousing , bore spacing , piston bore, ect, as will the 1979 Cleveland heads they bolt to any 144 to 200 and 250 aussie /US sixs , ring a aussie wrecker get the alloy Cleveland style heads , efi intake exhaust and computer prob $200 all up , they were in everything, and still at every wrecker in Australia, prob $200 freight to US and thats aussie dollars so all up freight and head $295 US to your door, !
Loctite on the freeze plugs, and I suggest using the freeze plug tool, even a slightly cockeyed plug is going to weep
Rope seals work in most places, you just have to know where they don’t, and if it’s in a place that requires dropping the oil pan, or separating the engine and bell housing, I’d say use a one piece seal.
You should install the new pistons like this, 1 and 6 then 2 and 5 then 3 and 4.
It definitely would have made things a little faster but we didn't mind a few extra turns of the crank to make it a linear install.
That's pretty cool and easy to remember outside in! Never thought of that.
@@enginegremlin 153624 is the firing order of all inline 6 cylinder motors. Also 1 and 6 are of the same relationship as are 2 and 5 and 3 and 4
@@joewilson2258 you are correct. We should have clarified. We kind of bundled our thoughts in our previous comment. We've since edited the comment to scrub our dumb dumb moment.
@@joewilson2258 For some odd reason many there are plenty of examples that are 123654 or 142536. Ford used the swap firing order in the 50's and 60's in the zephyr engine. Marine and stationary can use the 2 5 swap from the big 3 as well. There are inline 6's that use basically a twin 3 cylinder crank with 142536, or a swap variant of that as well.
The 300 found in medium and heavy vehicles, such as dump trucks, had forged steel crankshafts, and are quite strong. Also, a fairly rare trick is to cut up a set of 302/351W/C performance aluminum cylinder heads, and weld the pieces together, creating a 6 cylinder crossflow performance head. Custom headers and intake manifold is required. A custom ground cam, adjustable roller rockers, too. With the 300's timing gears, cam timing remains very precise compared to the timing chains found in V8s. There is a guy running such an animal in a rail, called the French Town Flyer, and he revs the 300 inline to 7500 rpm. That is pretty much the ultimate Ford six, as it's making more than 2 hp per cubic inch. The only thing nastier than that would be a modern Ford Barra inline 6.
Can't argue with that. Which is why we're designing our own 4 valve crissflow head based on the 2JZ-GTE.
i have a magazine with a 300 6 clevland heads 24bbls and headers in a drag car
from the early 70 s
I live in southern Wisconsin, anyone know of any old straight six rebuilders I can contact to rebuild my motor? I'm have no luck finding one.
Very cool and interesting vid, I have a 200 block in my 64 Ranchero, it's actually from a 66 Mustang, of a friend who put a 302 in his car, so was a freebee. Hopefully your re-build did not cost "6 million dollars" as your opening scenes implies!! LOL. Good info on the bottom end of the motor, mine is a rebuild to specs motor, no upgrades at all except it's bolted to a 5 speed from a 99 Mustang, and electronic ignition, which still makes the thing hard to start. So, the Holley sniper distributor interests me as a possible "plug and play" as you called it. Maybe the EFI. Liked the step by step even though a few things not "filmed".
The orange block color does not offend me, my 55 Ford Ranch wagon, my first car, 272 or 292 Y-Block, was red I think, and early 'Stangs 289's were black, and so were T's, all black, the only color you could get, then. Purists may want to "burn you at the stake" or at least draw and quarter you, like poor old William Wallace was. Love the older dude's Tat, of a piston on his arm!
My motor was rebuilt in a shop and the trans mated in another great shop in CA, several years ago. The engine runs strong albeit a weak hp motor, do not want to do too much to make it more temperamental than it is, being a half century old block. I watched step two and was interested in all the upgrades to squeeze more out of the old six, but I have a couple of other cars for that with 302's, a Comet Caliente and a Ford Fairlane, both 64's, and a 390 in my 67 Mercury Cyclone. LOL ;D
How close is this engine to the 4.9L straight six? I have a beautiful 93 F150 but want to get it rebuilt and get a little more power out of it.
So the 4.9L, aka the Ford 300 is a different engine family from the one here (Ford 200) and is actually the better engine of the two but they are very similar. But most of options are still applicable to the Ford 300 like the Cam, rockers, headers, intake, etc. Lots of cheap-ish and (mostly) bolt upgrades that all added up make a noticeable difference. Plus the 93 came with EFI so you already have that going for you.
@@enginegremlin hey I appreciate all the information! Thanks for taking the time to answer! One more dumb question, do you know or recommend anybody in the Cleveland, Ohio area? I tried calling a guy, left a message and he never got back to me?
@@simonpeter5987 That one's outside of my purview. I'm really only familiar with shops in the Denver area.
@@enginegremlin thank you again! Just thought I ask. I knew this guy in Texas goes by the name of Bobby. Can't remember his last name (was a kid back then) he was friends with my mom and dad but anyway he was a genius when it came to rebuilding engines. He built a 454 for my pop's 56 Chevy. Unfortunately my pop's never did anything with the car after that. Still sitting in the yard. Anyway with my truck it's a sentimental thing. I bought it new in 93' and have loved it ever since. Got it repainted a couple years ago and it is in mint condition thanks to oil spraying it.
Just buy the Ford Barra 6. 1200hp stock head and bottom ends no problem
Lifter access panels on the sides of the block?
Nice crankers brewery shirt! I went to ferris state. You too? I have a 223 I'm thinking about rebuilding
Nope! I originally hail from Missouri (properly pronounced "Misery" in it's native tongue) myself but I'm a craft beer slut/junky so I've gotten around the beer scene across the US. Crankers had the best coconut porter I've ever had and it was of the best beers I've ever had.
What cylinder head are you using as all the 200&250s I've ever owned had the integral cast intake. Must be an Aussie part
So it's actually a vintage inlines cast aluminum head made right here in the US. There's been a shortage of them the last few years between foundry issues and COVID supply chain issues but they'll be going back into production here soon.
We'll talk more about it I'm the next video.
I was wondering the same thing. The main detraction of the 170-200-250 Ford six, has always been the integral intake manifold. You could however machine two extra holes in it to allow three carbs.
@@jeromebreeding3302ford Australia wanted a better flowing head so they cast their own seperate alloy intake to take a two barrel Carbie it was called the 250 2V motor had 160 HP from factory , later they redesigned the whole head and made it cross flow and used Cleveland Canted Valve heads they got Honda to design the ports , that was 1979 in 1981 they made it in alloy and fuel injection, then in 1988 they added an over head cam to the now metric 3.2 and 4.0 litre 200/250 ci six , then in 2002 they added double over head cams and 4 valve per cylinder head then a Garret Turbo and made it right up to 2017/18 in Aussie Ford's, they Barra Six is I direct eveloution of the 144ci Falcon Six from 1964 all Same bore spacing, engine mounting, clutch / bell housing , anywhere a 200 ci six can bolt a Barra will bolt rite up even same bellhousing !
How accurate is line boring when the block is moving around on the stand?
So there are two types of hone machines out there. Fixed motor and fixed block. Fixed block doesn't let the block move and requires precision alignment of the honing stones or a hone motor mount with some play or adjustability. Fixed motor is the opposite, where the block can move and you let the honing stones pressure align the bearing journal's and you don't accidentally create an ovalized journal. We have the latter in this case where the hone is set to a Fixed height.
I would like to have a 200 built like this. What is the rough estimate for one?
So if it's EXACTLY like this, your looking at roughly $10k to $12k if you go through an engine builder. If you step it down a notch and use a Sniper system instead of a Holley HP ECU and use a hyperspark distributor instead of coil near plug, etc, you're looking at around $8k. If you do the machining and buildup yourself, you're looking at closer to $4k.
@@enginegremlin So around $1750 since you can't get the head?
Falcon Six! 👍
Pulled ours out of a Mustang. Lol
@@enginegremlin Girly Falcon! haha (just yanking your chain). ;^) Love these engines 👍
@@enginegremlin yup, they were in a lot of U.S. cars and trucks, 60-80, my block is from a 66 Mustang, got for free from a friend, and had shop rebuild for my 64 Ford Ranchero!! That's sort of a "Ute" for our friends down under!
Back in the day they called the Ranchero, "a lousy car and a worse truck" LOL ;D
you skipped over the 240 on the way to the 300 and the 223 is to far back . looks like i see some brows were the bore did not clean up at the top there [you can hid that with a ball flex hone ]
What’s the availability of the aluminum head, I’ve got a 200ci I’m my 1967 mustang fastback and I want that head you have on that engine, my engine is all together and running I just want to swap heads and do the header to like the one you have on your engine
I've got an update on that coming in 1-2 weeks. I just finished interviewing the owner of VI and it's the very first topic we cover.
@@enginegremlin I had to have my engine bored out to 30 over, I’ve got the top loader 4 speed tranny in the car and a 8” rear axle and 5 lug hubs on the spindles, I wonder about the clearance between the air cleaner and the hood with the aluminum head on there with the intake and carburetor?
I’m going to go with just the carburetor and no fuel injection on the car.
If you are willing to source them from argentina, there are new aluminum heads made. Exchange rate should make em cheap for you.
That is a ford Australia 250 ci 2v head rather rare , but very very common is the 1979 Cleveland style Canted Valve heads cross flow they came in alloy in 1982 and multi point injection too, very cheap they were in everything in Australia, ring an Aussie wrecker prob $200 complete with the injection manifold and computer , it bolts to any 144, 170, 188, 200 and 250 ci ford six , freight is about $200 to USA for alloy one ! That's Australian dollars so all up $295 US delivered!
Why didn't you use a torque plate when doing the cylinder hone?
What can I do with a straight 6 from a 1974 AM General (jeep?) FJ-8A?
Go check out @TheHorsepowerMonster (youtube.com/@TheHorsepowerMonster?si=civwIYRkMB-5aghK). Those guys built a monster turbo 4.0 out of a jeep.
The ultimate ford inline six i ever saw had a modified cleveland head made from two cleveland heads cut to make one 6 head.
500+ hp....
When doing the cam u should always rest when the bearing r on the cam bearing surface to avoid any possible contamination
Would the Sealant you've mentioned
Happen to be, Permatex, the original not any of the other Sealants and adhesives they put their name on. Ive heard it called "Black" which makes sense, it is black, it's also gooey and is the best old school pliable gasket making sticky ass slime ever!
No torque plates while honing?
Well damn (Saw your subs at 299. Just had to click it)
Woot!
You my friend have earned yourself an instagram shoutout
@@enginegremlin I wish you all the best with the channel!
Have you ever built a Ford 215 CID?
WHERE DID YOU GET A VINTAGE INLINES HEAD?! I’ve been waiting so long for these to com back in stock😢
I got a factory defect head and had it repaired
Which year would be the best version of the engine to look for to start?
I like the 67-68 blocks since they came with forged rods it gets a bit more sporadic on which ones came with forged rods after that. If your using the original log head, the later year heads are the best since they get slightly bigger in the manifolds over time. Definitely avoid the late 50s and early 60s that were in the falcons because they were a 5 main bearing block instead of a 7 main bearing.
@@enginegremlin thank you! I’m a Ford guy from way back. I cooked my 200ci 66 Mustang back in 79. It was my first car and wish I still had it.
@@enginegremlin The 144, 170 and early 200 engines were 4 main bearings. Later 200 and 250 engines were 7 main bearings. You can tell at a glance if a 200 is 4 main or 7 main by counting the core plugs. 3 core plugs is a 4 main bearing engine, 7 main bearing engines have four core plugs. Also the bell housing patterns changed. The early Falcon Six engines used 5 bolt pattern for the bell housing while the later engines used a six bolt pattern that was identical to the Windsor engines.
I'd consider a Vortec 4200 turbo (like Nivlac57 build) or a 300 Ford with a S366 the ultimate I6 build, but I prefer boost and fuel injection, to carbs, distibutors, and headers. Cool build though. Nothin' wrong with and old school build either.
So this is actually a full EFI build so this may tickle your fancy. I hate carbs myself. We have sequential port full injection run on a Holley HP ECU and holley smart coil near plug ignition. That's a later episode but for these first two we're showing how to build it up so you can do either.
@@enginegremlin oh, coolio. I got distracted halfway through, and I need to re-watch it for sure. Thanks for the response, EG !
Those Atlas engines that Nivlac57 builds are impressive but the pistons don't hold up. Hopefully he gets that worked out.
@@damonlemasters7175 they are shooting for big numbers though, keep the boost around 12 lbs, and keep it under 5800 rpm, it will make about 550 hp, and 580 ft/lbs of torque, and that torque curve is pancake flat from 3800 to 6000 RPM.
Also who builds them?
Thank You
Steve
Reach out to DC Racing Engines in Denver if you would like to use the same shop we collaborated with. Link in description.
What about the 6 with the Cleavland Boss head ??? Thats a beast.
Ford Australia did it in 1979 by putting Cleveland style Canted Valve heads on the 200 and 250 ford six later in alloy and fuel injection , they got Honda to design the porting it uses all Cleveland valve train , in 1988 they add an over head cam and in 2002 double over head cam 4 valve heads and in 2006 a Garret Turbo that is the evolution of the Barra six
..is that a vintage inlines cylinder head on the Ford 200??
Yup! You guessed it. We'll be talking more about it in part 2.
@@enginegremlin Here's the thing....this is EXACTLY the engine I'd like to build for my '62 Falcon Wagon!! EXACTLY. The key to the whole build however, is the head!!!!! If you can't get ahold of the Vintage Inlines head (AND NO ONE CAN!!!!!!!!!!!), it's absolutely not worth building one of these engines. Everything, and I mean EVERYTHING in the build of these engines centers around the HEAD!! The old head on these engines was SHITE. It's the one item that makes or breaks these builds!! How do us "non-RUclipsrs", average citizens, everyday Joes, get ahold of one of those heads? IT'S IMPOSSIBLE!!!!!!!!!!! Honestly, I may as well do the same-'ol, same-'ol, V8 (289, 302) swap if I can't get ahold of one of those heads!!!! It pains me watching this video, knowing this is exactly what I want to do, but not being able to source one of those heads.....ANYWHERE!!!!!!!!!
I'm very curious, how did you come across this head? Do I need to start a RUclips channel and promise to promote Vintage Inlines to get ahold of one? Because I will if I have to! ;)
@@jayhollopeter7408 100% agree. I see lots of videos like this where they use the VI head (which is pretty much non-existent unless you can find someone who's willing to part with one - good luck with that!) but the rest of us are stuck with (at best) the "large-log" 250 head with the crap cast-in intake and what seems to be the only viable performance option of 3 1-barrels (maybe a 2 bbl conversion which is still limited because of the stupid head design). I think I'll start looking for a 300 or even drop a mopar slant 6 into my 66 Mustang.
Yep. Vaporware.
Possible to put all 7 videos in a playlist. I can’t seem to find them.
They aren't all released yet. Parts 4 through 7 will be over the next year since it requires the new head we're designing
Didn't realize this was for beginners. Could you make a short version for this of us that understand lube, studs, honing vs boring, crossfuckinghatch, etc
We'll be getting more and more technical with each video in the motor build series. But if there is information in particular you'd like to know, let us know and we'll include it in a Q&A episode or in a future episode if it fits the topic.
For a second there I was expecting a silk thread on the oil pan gasket mating surface ( cast metal and precision machined pans n covers only )
My idea of the ultimate straight 6 would have a 8-71 blower !!!!!!!!
We ALMOST went with a blower configuration but we're going with a turbo version but we'll do our best to explain how to do a blower config!
@@enginegremlin my "ultimate six build" adds two more cylinders!! ;D
Have you seen the build with a ls head.
Sure have. There are actually 2-3 of them out there but the turbo one just got running this past October. Pretty dope
It's just a useless as this. So is the boss headed one. None will make 2hp per cubic inch n/a
How much for the work
My only question is; Where do I get the cylinder head?
Gonna copy my response from another comment to save myself some keystrokes here regarding the cylinder head.
Here is everything I know on the heads and their future.
About 3-4 years ago, the owner of Vintage Inlines (after acquiring it from Classic Inlines after the owner passed away) ran into issues with getting additional castings as the foundry he was using went out of business. After 1-2 years of searching, he was finally able to contract with a new foundry but then COVID hit and there were some supply chain issues. On top of that, there were some issues with the new molds for the heads. Now the molds issue has been solved but the new foundry is sorting a new issue with their own equipment. Ideally, and take this with a grain of salt given everything that's happened the last few years, the heads should get their first new castings in a few months.
Now, can everything be explained by supply chain and manufacturing issues? No. For the owner, running VI is his hobby and not his actual job, and as a result, getting the heads back into production isn't at the top of his priority list, despite (from what I can tell) there literally being thousands of people who want the heads and intake manifold. I've been pushing on him to put some more emphasis on getting the heads rolling (pun intended) and providing a consolidated public statement/announcement so everyone can get on the level and be in the know. Regrettably, social media isn't his thing so I am thinking of having him do an "ask the experts" episode so we can clear the air on the subject and I can broadcast it on the channel.
Now, I will say that part of the purpose of these videos before the heads were available was so that folks could get a working knowledge of the motors and all the potential mods so that they could plan accordingly and by the time the series was done the heads would (ideally) be available again.
Lastly, If you can stand to wait another year, I can tell you that there are some super secret plans in the works for when the car is complete that will give you an alternative to trying to get a VI head that you'll definitely want to pay attention to. That's part of "Stage 3" for this motor when we finally achieve "Ultimate".
You will have to find a used one. Vintage Inlines is not taking orders. They haven't been able to fill the orders they have. They claim foundry problems.
Been wishfully visiting Vintage Inlines off and on for better part of 5 years. Most everything like heads you see listed and want is unobtanium - the site amounts to an exercise in window shopping and reading hopeful statements from your peers about what may be available “in just a few months”. COViD is just the current catch all excuse for a reality that predates any real or imagined supply chain issues. VI is best thought of as an enthusiast site with some decent forum info, not a viable performance parts supplier. One person’s opinion.
@@enginegremlin yup, when one door closes another one opens, even just a crack. There is much interest and need in this subject matter, performance sixes, as demonstrated by the comments here. If only you had not wasted "6 million dollars" on this build, you could have fulfilled that need and opened a nice little business manufacturing the needed parts, like in VI's previous "days of yore" you just described here! So, we'll stay tuned, and hopefully not all be killed by Covid in the meanwhile! ;D LOL
The best straight 6 by Ford? The 4 liter Ford Barra from Austrailia!
That is just the evolution of this motor ,
Why arn't you using brass core plugs?
Because she'll get a rebuild before the current plugs have a chance to go bad and for the first build we went with aome more aesthetically pleasing plugs. The next rebuild will have brass plugs.
So from 100, to 200bhp? Doesn’t seem difficult with 6 cylinders and 300 cubic inches, but a challenge is a challenge, mire timing = more power = more heat in the chambers, increased/augmented coolant flow on the #1 cylinder is needed for longevity.
It's also only a 200 CI straight 6, not the 300. We'll aim for 300-350 NA with a different head setup and then 500+ with boost. But we have to finish designing the head first.
How much would this project cost me if I did the exact same build
So it depends. Would want to go with full EFI with the holley HP ECU and smart coils and port fuel injection? Or step it down to throttle body injection with a hyperspark distributor? Or just copy the mechanicals?
@@enginegremlin step it down to the throttle body injection with the with a hyperspark distributor verses just a copy of the mechanicals
@@ivantorro1363 with the VI head and rockers about $6.5k (assuming you dont need new mechanicals. With new mechanicals (pistons, lifters, cam) about $7.5k. Without the VI head and no new mechanicals, about $4k
Yo tengo un maverick 1970 6 cilindros en línea con pistones del 60 mi meta es que llegue alos 200 hp y este video es genial para ese propósito que gran video no hay avia buscado mucho este tipo de modificaciones lo último para estos hermosos motores gracias por el contenido de calidad 💪😎🍻
What is displacement of this six?
200 ci that got bored out to 202 after a .030 overbore to clean up the cylinders
@@enginegremlin thanks have some good memeries of the old 200 this video brings me.smooth running mill
250 ci Aussie six same as 200
I had a 240 ci in a 65 f150 never heard of a 250 ci Ford. Heard of 144 ci 170 ci 223 ci 240 ci and 300 ci. But I don't know everything.
Piston rings aren't fixed in rotation and rotate when the engine runs... separating the ring gaps is more of a peace of mind thing than a scientific "your engine will die if you don't do exactly this" process.
You make a fair point there but there is an extension to the reasons why we recommend separating the rings. It also helps to prevent grooving in the cylinder walls during break-in so that they don't settle on top of each over time and cause you to lose compression. But you are correct, one the engine is broken in and running normally, the rings do move and blow-by isn't really an issue.
@@enginegremlin yup, so much is ritual and "peace of mind", like the man says, and easy to do stuff, at the time, so if something goes "hideously awry", later, you don't end up blaming yourself, needlessly!
I’m a 300 in-line guy
Adapt some modified SB Ford heads. Quite the conversation starter
I see some folks are putting LS heads on them. But I’m not sure I’m sharp enough
But I mad 3 Carter YF carbs work
ruclips.net/video/ZL8anAHFlQc/видео.html
I really do like the two more cubes in my cars' engines!! ;D LOL