this channel is like therapy for me. gets detailed with torque specs. respect for the torque wrench. i see so many shops that just rip with the impact guns and it drives me nuts
Thanks! An adjustable track bar really isn't needed but if you're wanting a bit more correction or looking for a bit more bind free flex, something like this will help make that happen.
I have been pretty happy with Rancho's recent JK and JL offerings. I have theory geometry brackets up front, which are made from 1/4" steel and fully welded. Very beefy. (And yes I know i lose ground clearance with it, but it drives better than stock, and I don't do heavy rock crawling).
Even much to my surprise, Rancho has really upped their game lately. I know a lot of people scoff at them but really, the quality and price of their stuff is really hard to beat and most everything they make is made in the USA. The few parts that aren't are made in Australia.
have you ever taken your jeep down to a place with a scale to weight it now and see how many pounds you have added to it. i know a stock Sport S is 4201 pounds. or at least that is what the Nevada DMV says mine weights.
It was more like 1/4" but even if it was more like 1/2", it's far from being enough to matter. Because of the way a track bar works, your axle is technically ALWAYS off by a bit. Load up your Jeep with gear and it'll be off. Completely empty it and remove your top and doors and it'll be off a bit. Just the nature of the beast.
LOL!! There is no "accurate" with a track bar. Because of how it's designed, your axle will ALWAYS be off a bit one way or another as you've just pointed out. Load up the Jeep and it'll be off a bit. Completely unload it and it'll be off the other way. It's just the nature of the beast and really no big deal. That being said, the back of our Jeep was completely loaded up with all our gear when we did this. Not to help anything out mind you, just that it was.
Hi I really like your videos 👍 I I just did the same thing with RPM track bars . Don’t you think you should remove track bar relocation bracket ? Since now your track bar is obviously longer. I ran 6” long arm kit . And when I installed my new adjustable track bar in the back it was screwed all the way in , maybe one turn out. Just something to think about . Less crap ( bracket ) to get lose or rust. Also I did not like the angle of aftermarket track bar with relocation bracket . It was to horizontal . Good video 👍
The bracket exists to correct geometry, as in, make your track bar sit flatter just like stock. This is done to improve ride quality and handling, NOT to center your axle.
@@wayalife I agree , but I think in my case track bar was way to flat almost negative . I have combination of different lift components 😃 . Well I’ll make some more research 🧐 , I’m curious what’s the proper angle for the track bar . I need to dig those specs somewhere, and compare to where I’m at at the moment. Thank you for getting back 👍
The ideal angle is NO angle. You want everything to be as parallel with you axle as possible. Same is true up front and this is why track bar relocation/drag link flip kits are sold. This is also why long arm kits are sold - to flatten the control arm geometry after installing a tall lift. You WANT your suspension and steering components to sit as flat or horizontal as possible as that will help provide optimal ride quality and handling.
If it mattered, yeah. Being that your axle will always be a little off centered one way or the other depending on how loaded or empty your Jeep is, working off the fenders will get the job done just fine.
Question, I have a jeep JL Mopar lift and adjustable front and rear rock Krawler track bars. I had it aligned and just got around to installing 37” tires about a year after doing the lift. I just noticed my rear tire is sticking out about 1/2” more on the driver side than the pass side. Can I just adjust the rear track bar to correct this and if I do, should I get another alignment done? Also i love your channel!
It depends. Sounds like your rear track bar is too long and if it can't be set any shorter, you will not be able to correct this. No alignment will be needed if you are able to.
Great video...I have a JL with RK 2.5" stage 1 lift with TT shocks and rear trackbar relocation bracket. I'm having trouble understanding why the rear tires dont have the same uptravel as the front tires and rear coil is about 3" from compressing on bumpstops when I forklift raise the front tires to test rear travel. The rear shocks have about 4" of uptravel left before they bottom out...so shocks aren't limiting it. Could this be due to the rear sway bar limiting uptravel or the stock rear track bar binding? I thought about disconnecting the rear sway bar and testing again. Thoughts? Thanks for your help!
The rear sway bar is very thin and soft and it will NOT limit the amount of flex you have. Leave it connected. If you're sure your shocks aren't too long, the problem is with your coils. If I recall, RK uses double or even maybe triple rate coils and while they're great for carrying a load and keeping your Jeep looking level, the firm side of the coil is REALLY FIRM and they WILL resist compression.
Another good video, I was one of the ones that was asking about the adj track bar vs the bracket. I have the bracket but it's so close to being center, that I'm not going to use it. With stuff I've done to mine in the front, I can literally drive it now with my arm on top of the wheel. No more sawing back and forth. More caster and stronger track bar is what I feel has made the difference. Thanks for the video's.
@@wayalife well not really, it's a Sahara not a Rubicon. It's on 2.5 spacers on top of Rubicon springs, adjustable LCA and track bar ,so with the steel bumpers I've put on there and winch I'm right around 3in lift over stock. I don't have the hi fenders so it looks right , ar least to me.
Not really important at all. In fact, due to its design, your axle will NEVER be 100% centered. Add more weight and it'll be off. Remove your doors and top and unload your Jeep and it'll be off. Just the nature of the beast when it comes to a solid front axle with a track bar.
@@wayalife Great video, thank you so much for all your videos education. I'm from Australia, and driving on the left side of the road. My Jeep JK has been pulling to the left (both steering and wheel), and i just realized 2 potential problems which i need your advice: 1. my wheel is having toe out. 2. my front axle is position to the left side of the vehicle by extra 18mm, compared to the right side. Based on this video, does it mean it's ok for me to leave both the front and rear axle sitting off centered, just like what it is now? My Jeep is having 2.5 inch lift kit, with adjustable track bar. Does fixing my wheel alignment, by setting toe in, will that solve the problems of vehicle pulling to the left? Thanks and appreciate your advice very much. :)
Wanted to ask you brother!! What’s the best track bar in the market for Dana 60 and evo long arms. Mine is acting weird a little and throw me to the driver side when I drive it
Wayalife so the factory track bar can hold well? The brackets are relocated. It’s not like death wobble but the steering goes driver side as well as the car. I have a rock krawler tie rod
@@daboo950 Of all the track bars I've tested over the years, I found the factory track bars to hold up the best. Regarding your driver side pull, is it safe to say you're running Trail Grapplers? They're well known for having a radial pull to the left.
If by restrictive you mean, do they have bonded rubber bushings, yes and are designed to operate quietly and maintenance free for the life of the vehicle and while still allowing for full articulation.
You can get RS9000X shocks in a longer length but you really need to have the lift to accommodate them. You can't just add longer shocks and expect to have more flex without any penalties.
@@WranglerAddiction Thinner fenders will help prevent rubbing from your tires but it's NEVER a good idea to run less bump stop extension than is necessary with the lift you have. The primary purpose of bump stop extensions is to help prevent the OVER COMPRESSION of your coils. As in, preventing them from compressing to the point where they no longer return to their original height. Preventing rubbing at a full flex is just a perk.
Is it possible to get the right bracket (or whatever is called the parte where the right end of the track is attached to) by separate? Mine got broken after a car wreck
it seems the bigger and badder the jeep gets the more of these type of issues seem to occur? it may just be me but did you have as many of these problems when it was just the dynatrac lift? I still think that particular lift and some 37's will be my max!
Without question, the bigger and taller you go, the more things you have to address. Same has been true over the last 20+ years. At 2" of lift like what Dynatrac offers, you're essentially still within stock specs.
@@WRXinthe410 No, never said that, just saying it's not that big of a deal and depending on how much you load up your Jeep or have it empty, it'll be off one way or another anyway. It's just the nature of the beast when it comes to track bars.
Unfortunately, it'd be very difficult to tighten jam nuts to a specific torque spec but fortunately, I've always found that tightening the hell out of them does a good enough job. Even if they were to come loose, it's not like anything is gonna go anywhere.
I means that you need to tighten to 74 ft lbs and then turn the wrench an additional 30° or 60° respectively after it clicks. However, Rancho does provide specific torque specs with their components.
Awesome thank you. I’m using a steer smart rear track bar. Will I be ok torquing to 125 ft lbs like you did in the video. Says in their man to tighten at OEM and listed the 74+ thingy
So I have what may seem as a stupid question. You seem to have had a few related issues take place because of recent lifts, axles, drive shafts. For those of us that are making or will be making substantial changes to our rigs in the future, would it be more prudent for us to spend more on the front side and make more of these changes initially if we can, or is this just something that can just happen? I ask as I know you have a lot of experience with Jeeps and actually using them. Thanks for the info.
I think the problem is that the JL is still pretty new and a there are a lot of things that haven't been taken into account for or at least, not as of yet. We've seen a lot of this over the last 20+ years on the JK and the TJ before so in a lot of ways, I could already see them coming - hence why I'm never too surprised and why I have an idea of what to do. What I can tell you is that these issues will most likely be ironed out in the next year or two and by then, a lot of what you're seeing won't be too much of an issue at all.
Your numbers were 3 1/4 and 3 1/2. You only needed a correction of 1/8th of an inch. 1/4 total if you over compensate. Man...and I thought us Asians were supposed to be good at math😉👍👍 jk or jl I always watch your videos
this channel is like therapy for me. gets detailed with torque specs. respect for the torque wrench. i see so many shops that just rip with the impact guns and it drives me nuts
Happy to hear you enjoy our videos.
Love the editing that emphasises the gear hitting the bench.
Cindy's handy work. She loves what she does :)
cindy is the real MVP for shaking the jeep while still holding a perfect camera angle of the action! *clap*
Eddie, The info you do is great. Keep up the great videos.
eli ortega thank you. We’re glad to hear you’ve benefited from our videos
Im leaning so much from your channel!! Keep up the great work!!
Jason Park so glad to hear it 😎
Excellent video I to have the bracket but really considering the adjustable rear track bar. I always enjoy learning new stuff and how it works.
Thanks! An adjustable track bar really isn't needed but if you're wanting a bit more correction or looking for a bit more bind free flex, something like this will help make that happen.
I have been pretty happy with Rancho's recent JK and JL offerings. I have theory geometry brackets up front, which are made from 1/4" steel and fully welded. Very beefy. (And yes I know i lose ground clearance with it, but it drives better than stock, and I don't do heavy rock crawling).
Even much to my surprise, Rancho has really upped their game lately. I know a lot of people scoff at them but really, the quality and price of their stuff is really hard to beat and most everything they make is made in the USA. The few parts that aren't are made in Australia.
have you ever taken your jeep down to a place with a scale to weight it now and see how many pounds you have added to it. i know a stock Sport S is 4201 pounds. or at least that is what the Nevada DMV says mine weights.
Gropax sorry, have not but I may need to 😎
Another 5 min fix from Eddie but wait there’s more lol seriously great stuff as always be safe
LOL!! Glad you enjoyed it :)
didn't you throw off the thrust angle on the alignment by shifting it almost 1/2 inch? or is that not enough to worry about.
It was more like 1/4" but even if it was more like 1/2", it's far from being enough to matter. Because of the way a track bar works, your axle is technically ALWAYS off by a bit. Load up your Jeep with gear and it'll be off. Completely empty it and remove your top and doors and it'll be off a bit. Just the nature of the beast.
@@wayalife interesting thanks!
Always very informative.
Thank you, so glad to hear it :)
As always, thanks for the video. Still waiting on the garage tour 😎
LOL - Sorry, got all these project to do first.
Nice vid as usual. But could you not adjust bar once loaded with driver at least (plus cargo) to get it more accurate . Steve
LOL!! There is no "accurate" with a track bar. Because of how it's designed, your axle will ALWAYS be off a bit one way or another as you've just pointed out. Load up the Jeep and it'll be off a bit. Completely unload it and it'll be off the other way. It's just the nature of the beast and really no big deal. That being said, the back of our Jeep was completely loaded up with all our gear when we did this. Not to help anything out mind you, just that it was.
Another great video. Did I see new fenders in the background?
LOL!! You see correctly. Thinking about going with black fenders.
Hi I really like your videos 👍
I I just did the same thing with RPM track bars .
Don’t you think you should remove track bar relocation bracket ?
Since now your track bar is obviously longer.
I ran 6” long arm kit . And when I installed my new adjustable track bar in the back it was screwed all the way in , maybe one turn out.
Just something to think about . Less crap ( bracket ) to get lose or rust. Also I did not like the angle of aftermarket track bar with relocation bracket . It was to horizontal .
Good video 👍
The bracket exists to correct geometry, as in, make your track bar sit flatter just like stock. This is done to improve ride quality and handling, NOT to center your axle.
@@wayalife
I agree , but I think in my case track bar was way to flat almost negative . I have combination of different lift components 😃 . Well I’ll make some more research 🧐 , I’m curious what’s the proper angle for the track bar . I need to dig those specs somewhere, and compare to where I’m at at the moment.
Thank you for getting back 👍
The ideal angle is NO angle. You want everything to be as parallel with you axle as possible. Same is true up front and this is why track bar relocation/drag link flip kits are sold. This is also why long arm kits are sold - to flatten the control arm geometry after installing a tall lift. You WANT your suspension and steering components to sit as flat or horizontal as possible as that will help provide optimal ride quality and handling.
I so badly want to see what kind of video Eddie will publish on April 1st...
Great description and content as always. Were those king bump stops ? Next install maybe lol.
Bill Barron LOL - yes they are and you may see an install sometime soon
Is it better to measure to a common point on the frame instead of the fender when verifying if the axle is centered?
If it mattered, yeah. Being that your axle will always be a little off centered one way or the other depending on how loaded or empty your Jeep is, working off the fenders will get the job done just fine.
Question, I have a jeep JL Mopar lift and adjustable front and rear rock Krawler track bars. I had it aligned and just got around to installing 37” tires about a year after doing the lift. I just noticed my rear tire is sticking out about 1/2” more on the driver side than the pass side. Can I just adjust the rear track bar to correct this and if I do, should I get another alignment done? Also i love your channel!
It depends. Sounds like your rear track bar is too long and if it can't be set any shorter, you will not be able to correct this. No alignment will be needed if you are able to.
Wayalife thank you! Yes I have about an inch of movement to shorten it so no issues there. Thanks for the quick reply!
Great video...I have a JL with RK 2.5" stage 1 lift with TT shocks and rear trackbar relocation bracket. I'm having trouble understanding why the rear tires dont have the same uptravel as the front tires and rear coil is about 3" from compressing on bumpstops when I forklift raise the front tires to test rear travel. The rear shocks have about 4" of uptravel left before they bottom out...so shocks aren't limiting it. Could this be due to the rear sway bar limiting uptravel or the stock rear track bar binding? I thought about disconnecting the rear sway bar and testing again. Thoughts? Thanks for your help!
The rear sway bar is very thin and soft and it will NOT limit the amount of flex you have. Leave it connected. If you're sure your shocks aren't too long, the problem is with your coils. If I recall, RK uses double or even maybe triple rate coils and while they're great for carrying a load and keeping your Jeep looking level, the firm side of the coil is REALLY FIRM and they WILL resist compression.
Another good video, I was one of the ones that was asking about the adj track bar vs the bracket. I have the bracket but it's so close to being center, that I'm not going to use it. With stuff I've done to mine in the front, I can literally drive it now with my arm on top of the wheel. No more sawing back and forth. More caster and stronger track bar is what I feel has made the difference. Thanks for the video's.
Glad to hear you were able to get your Jeep feeling good again :)
@@wayalifeit was all over the place when it was stock. Now with everything 3 in lift and 35 it drives good.
3" of lift is a LOT of lift for just 35" tires. More caster would have been needed for sure to get it back in line.
@@wayalife well not really, it's a Sahara not a Rubicon. It's on 2.5 spacers on top of Rubicon springs, adjustable LCA and track bar ,so with the steel bumpers I've put on there and winch I'm right around 3in lift over stock. I don't have the hi fenders so it looks right , ar least to me.
If it looks right to you, that's all that matters :)
Another great video! How important is rear axle being centered 100% & can a relocation bracket over compensate roll center?
Not really important at all. In fact, due to its design, your axle will NEVER be 100% centered. Add more weight and it'll be off. Remove your doors and top and unload your Jeep and it'll be off. Just the nature of the beast when it comes to a solid front axle with a track bar.
@@wayalife Great video, thank you so much for all your videos education. I'm from Australia, and driving on the left side of the road.
My Jeep JK has been pulling to the left (both steering and wheel), and i just realized 2 potential problems which i need your advice:
1. my wheel is having toe out.
2. my front axle is position to the left side of the vehicle by extra 18mm, compared to the right side.
Based on this video, does it mean it's ok for me to leave both the front and rear axle sitting off centered, just like what it is now? My Jeep is having 2.5 inch lift kit, with adjustable track bar.
Does fixing my wheel alignment, by setting toe in, will that solve the problems of vehicle pulling to the left?
Thanks and appreciate your advice very much. :)
Wanted to ask you brother!! What’s the best track bar in the market for Dana 60 and evo long arms. Mine is acting weird a little and throw me to the driver side when I drive it
Is this on a JL? How much lift do you have and are you running relocation brackets?
Wayalife it’s a jk with double throw down
On my JK running a DTD, I'm still running the factory track bars. I do have relocation brackets installed though and a high steer system.
Wayalife so the factory track bar can hold well? The brackets are relocated. It’s not like death wobble but the steering goes driver side as well as the car. I have a rock krawler tie rod
@@daboo950 Of all the track bars I've tested over the years, I found the factory track bars to hold up the best. Regarding your driver side pull, is it safe to say you're running Trail Grapplers? They're well known for having a radial pull to the left.
hi . are the bushes on the standard control arms restrictive like the track bar bushes? cheers Phil
If by restrictive you mean, do they have bonded rubber bushings, yes and are designed to operate quietly and maintenance free for the life of the vehicle and while still allowing for full articulation.
Hey eddie how you doing? How’s the 9000 shocks doing so far? I have the 5000 and want more flex , does the 9000 have more extended lenght?
You can get RS9000X shocks in a longer length but you really need to have the lift to accommodate them. You can't just add longer shocks and expect to have more flex without any penalties.
Wayalife i’m planning on getting different fenders and get thinner bump stops so i want a little more flex from the shocks
@@WranglerAddiction Thinner fenders will help prevent rubbing from your tires but it's NEVER a good idea to run less bump stop extension than is necessary with the lift you have. The primary purpose of bump stop extensions is to help prevent the OVER COMPRESSION of your coils. As in, preventing them from compressing to the point where they no longer return to their original height. Preventing rubbing at a full flex is just a perk.
Wayalife thank you for the infos buddy 👍
Is it possible to get the right bracket (or whatever is called the parte where the right end of the track is attached to) by separate? Mine got broken after a car wreck
Are you asking about the frame side mount? If so, you might need to have that fabricated/welded on by a shop.
@@wayalife Yes. Alright thank you for your response. I’m new to this Jeep world and I’m loving it.
it seems the bigger and badder the jeep gets the more of these type of issues seem to occur? it may just be me but did you have as many of these problems when it was just the dynatrac lift? I still think that particular lift and some 37's will be my max!
Without question, the bigger and taller you go, the more things you have to address. Same has been true over the last 20+ years. At 2" of lift like what Dynatrac offers, you're essentially still within stock specs.
Great Video Eddie and Cindy... Thoughts on the Bracket to lower (since you mentioned it) your Sway Bay mount... Ever seen it needed? 😃
As a general rule, I don't like the idea of "lowering" anything especially when I just paid to install something to "raise" things.
I’ve seen it on a few Manufacturers Web Sites... Not sure how much it was Worth, or Helps?
lowering brackets are just a cheap way to solve a problem.
Great video thank yu!
gilbert arnold you bet, glad to hear it 😎
What are you running at this point @wayalife? Rancho or Synergy? My EVO is shot after less than 2,000 miles.
Still running a Rancho on the rear but Synergy up front. We have a video on it.
Is a rear adjustable track bar all i need to center my rear end up on a stock height Sport S JLU on a set of 33 inch tires? Its off by 5/8s of an inch
You really don't need anything for what you have. Your axle will always be a bit off depending on how much you have inside your Jeep or not.
@@wayalife so you are saying theres nothing I can do about the 5/8s of an inch off? Drives me crazy. Thanks for the reply.
@@WRXinthe410 No, never said that, just saying it's not that big of a deal and depending on how much you load up your Jeep or have it empty, it'll be off one way or another anyway. It's just the nature of the beast when it comes to track bars.
@@wayalife ok thanks, well I guess I should have done more research before I bought it. I dont like that. Oh well.
Sweet shop!
Thanks :)
Do you have to torque your jam nuts to spec or just tighten the hell out of them?
Unfortunately, it'd be very difficult to tighten jam nuts to a specific torque spec but fortunately, I've always found that tightening the hell out of them does a good enough job. Even if they were to come loose, it's not like anything is gonna go anywhere.
Awesome thanks
What size lift..?? Hey so far so
Good with my JT..
This track bar is for a JL. You would need one made for a JT.
Am I able to install the Rancho track bars on a non lifted JL ?
I do believe you can set it short enough to work on a stock setup.
What does it mean when the manual says for the torque 74+ 30° and the other 74+ 60°
I means that you need to tighten to 74 ft lbs and then turn the wrench an additional 30° or 60° respectively after it clicks. However, Rancho does provide specific torque specs with their components.
Awesome thank you. I’m using a steer smart rear track bar. Will I be ok torquing to 125 ft lbs like you did in the video. Says in their man to tighten at OEM and listed the 74+ thingy
Yes, you will be fine with 125
Excellent. Quick response, great videos. I look forward to the next one.
Eddie you don't need that hydraulic lift when you got Cindy around :)
LOL!!
So I have what may seem as a stupid question. You seem to have had a few related issues take place because of recent lifts, axles, drive shafts. For those of us that are making or will be making substantial changes to our rigs in the future, would it be more prudent for us to spend more on the front side and make more of these changes initially if we can, or is this just something that can just happen? I ask as I know you have a lot of experience with Jeeps and actually using them. Thanks for the info.
I think the problem is that the JL is still pretty new and a there are a lot of things that haven't been taken into account for or at least, not as of yet. We've seen a lot of this over the last 20+ years on the JK and the TJ before so in a lot of ways, I could already see them coming - hence why I'm never too surprised and why I have an idea of what to do. What I can tell you is that these issues will most likely be ironed out in the next year or two and by then, a lot of what you're seeing won't be too much of an issue at all.
Wayalife Thanks for the great info as always! Sure does help everyone and the JL just gets better and better.
Maybe the pavement is uneven and that is why the height is off by 1/4”?
Sorry, I have no idea what you're referring to or asking.
My Synergy front and rear trackbars arrive tomorrow. Why Jeep spec'd such a cheap part that's so important on SFA vehicles is beyond me...
It works for stock applications and really, that's all they need to satisfy.
Jeep 👍🇧🇷
Thank you :)
Hold up! We just gonna pretend there's not a new set of fender flairs sittin right over there?
LOL - They're just factory flares. Thinking about changing up to black.
Wayalife do it! Always liked black fenders on a Jeep vs body color.
I watched this video but I'm still trying to understand why you did this or why you would need one of these track bars.
Fit Pro don’t recall ever saying there was a “need”. Simply showing what we decided to do and why.
@@wayalife well it's a good video.
Your numbers were 3 1/4 and 3 1/2. You only needed a correction of 1/8th of an inch. 1/4 total if you over compensate. Man...and I thought us Asians were supposed to be good at math😉👍👍 jk or jl I always watch your videos
LOL!! Too funny. As you seen in the video, I eventually figured it out and got what I needed in the end.