Jeep DRIVELINE VIBRATIONS - Tracking Them Down on our JL Wrangler Driveshafts & Getting Them Fixed
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
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There are few things more annoying than driving a Jeep with driveline vibes - basically, a driveshaft that's vibrating. It's that oscillating hum that comes and goes and comes again like a rolling wave and one that you can almost feel in your body more than you can hear. Of course, because it can be somewhat subtle, it can also be hard to tell just how loud it really is or how quite your Jeep used to be. Over time, it can not only make you feel like a rusty nail is getting gently pounded into your skull, it can actually lead to real problems like fractures in your transfer case. In this episode of the JL JOURNAL, you'll get to see how Cindy and I tracked down and finally fixed the bad vibes we had on our Jeep JL Wrangler. We hope you enjoy.
Good job, im currently having vibration issues on a brand new f150 and going round and round with 2 different dealerships, both continue to balance tires, replace tires, and now in shop for new wheels, ive told them multiple times its the drive shaft, im probably going to end up pulling it out and dropping it off at a local drive line shop as well, love your videos, such a knowledgeable couple and generous enough to share with all of us, thank you
Truly humbled by your kind words and hope that you're able to figure out your problem.
Brother, keep making these videos. You really don’t know how much you are helping people. Awesome job. And a shout out to the camera woman. She always gets the camera in the right angle to see what you are doing. Y’all make a great team.
Thank you my friend, we really do appreciate it :)
This is Shawn Wood from Tom Wood's. I'm going to defend our competitor and explain a couple things. When you first got the shaft you had a stock front pinion which used a flat flange. Now you have a yoke on the pinion. So you must have removed the flange yoke from the drive shaft in order to bolt to the new pinion yoke. Problem is, the shaft would have been balanced with the flange. Because the flange is cast before being machined, it is very likely slightly heavier on one side than the other. The centering of the universal joint relative to the flanges centering pilot could also be a few thousandths of an inch off. So removing that flange can and will affect the relative center line of mass in the drive shaft. In short, removing parts and altering the drive shaft will affect the balance of the drive shaft. Also, a huge reason the local shop's shafts cost so much less is because they did not need to provide the yokes or flanges, because you already had those. So your price comparison is misleading at the very least. Some might even say that it is a lie.
LOL - how sweet of you to chime in and defend a competitor of yours. It's a shame you never bothered to watch the video first because if you had, you would have known that I specifically state that I had vibrations from day one. You would have also known that I too had assumed the problem was in regards to the front driveshaft and specifically because of the ProRock 44 I had installed. Of course, had you watched the video, you would have seen where I found that the vibrations continued to be present even AFTER I removed the front drive shaft. AS IN, the problem was with my REAR driveshaft - the one that hadn't been touched. Unlike you, a manufacturer of driveshafts and one who's got everything to loose if people found out how much more you charge than a local shop, I'm just a paying customer and have nothing to gain by making any of this up. In fact, I've bought almost half a dozen BRAND NEW shafts from my local shop and they've all be about the same price, including the 1410/1350 rear shaft I just bought. But then, people don't have to take my word for it - all they have to do is give them a call to see if I'm really the liar you're trying to suggest that I am. Have a good weekend.
Hey Shawn, You really put together quite the thesis paper here with ZERO evidence to stand on since your conclusion had no evidence at all to back it up. What you've just posted is one of the most insanely idiotic things I have ever read. At no point in your rambling, incoherent response were you even close to anything that could be considered a rational thought. Everyone on RUclips is now dumber for having read it. I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul. After you finish mopping the floors there at the shop, why don't you actually watch the fucking video.
You are calling Wayalife a liar, and you obviously didn’t watch the video. What a loser. I’ll never buy a Tom Woods shaft, I can tell you that. You just made my mind up for me, Shawn!
LOL, looks like Shawn has comprehension issues. And local shop envy perhaps? TW JK front driveshaft = $650.00 + UPS
Local shop price for same thing - $350. The difference must be the fairy dust you sprinkle on yours? Oh, and the sticker
I did watch the whole video. I realize that you had a vibration from the rear as well. But you seemed most focused on the front. The things I pointed out are still relevant. You modified the front drive shaft and that does affect the balance. I think that is worth pointing out for the benefit and education of the viewers. I don't care if people buy from their local shop, I don't care if people buy from Adams, I want people to do what is best for them. I have no reason to defend our biggest competitor. Honesty, integrity, and full and accurate information are my motives. I'm sad that so many people cannot see that. Anyone who isn't sure who to trust: Google "Eddie Oh Jeep". Then Google "Tom Woodsdrive shaft". See who has the best reputation. Seriously, do it.
Good for Eddie! If ever walked into a spot where 6 dudes were standing around waiting on shafts I would have quickly 180'd out of there! Great video as always man.
HAHAHAHA!! Oh man, that was funny!!
You are the only guy that has a video up describing my exact issue.
I have a stock rear drive shaft, and an upgraded front. I haven't removed the front or the rear yet to test it, but man, I appreciate this video!!!
More than likely, it's your front shaft and because you have too much caster set. Glad I could help out with this video.
@@wayalife Appreciated again!
I went to the local shop yesterday and he said the exact same thing. I made some adjustments and it's about 50% better.
Today, the shop told me I still had a little bit of a droop. I'm afraid if I lengthen the upper control arms anymore to offset the droop that I'll lose structural integrity in the control arm.
Might need to upgrade for longer control arms you think?
@@Strikerage Your lower control arms need to be made shorter.
@@wayalife What's your thoughts on a geometry correction bracket?
With the upper control arms being adjustable, and the lower ones fixed, but with a bend (pro comp), I don't know what affect that might have.
@@Strikerage They work well and you won't need any adjustable control arms with them. I just don't like the thought of lowering a point that does get hit all the time and that I just paid so much money to raise.
Dude, thankyou for posting this. I just replaced my stock driveshaft with one from Rough Country (yeah I know) and keep getting the same vibrations at 70mph. If I go anywhere near 80 it feels like the engine or something is going to self destruct. I never had this problem with the stock driveshaft. I didn't even know the drive shaft needed to be rebalanced. I live here in Vegas and know Adams is local for me. You just saved me a few grey hairs!
Glad we could be of help.
If you have a good local shop it’s definitely a win win for everyone. Thank you for sharing this information.
Glad we could be of help with our video :)
I'm laughing my butt off, I just found the vibration coming from my front driveshaft. Getting it replaced this week. I have a Jeep Liberty. I thought it was my front wheel bearings. Changed them and my passenger front CVshaft went out also because my boot ripped and was throwing grease everywhere.
To funny.
I know your pain.
Great content!
At 70 mph those props are turning at 3261rpm with 37" tyres and 5.13 gears!! No wonder they vibrate!! Your shop did a great job on them!!
Great video! I never understood the need for a big name driveshaft, it’s not like they have some proprietary tech that makes them vastly improved over a locally made one....just a fancy logo sticker. Glad to see you support your local shop!
Gotta love local shops and always proud to support them :)
I remember watching your driveshaft installation video, and when you did the comparison of the factory and new shafts side by side, I thought wow the factory shaft was patched with so many balance weights left and right, yet the new one was so smooth that they must did a darn good job make a perfect tube.
LOL!! Apparently not.
I have exact same drive shafts on my 2017 JKUR when I regeared to 5.13’s recently I got a bad vibe between 65 and 75mph. I added Clayton adjustable control arms and set pinion angles. Took out front driveshaft just like you and my vibe was some better but still there. So I am headed to my local driveshaft shop next week to get these balanced and hopefully solve this very frustrating issue. Thanks for your videos! Btw my ProRock 44 shipped and will be here next week as well! 👍
Glad we could be of some help to you.
I got the same thing happening with my 2007 Jeep Rubicon. Ordered a new front driveshaft and it came unbalanced (making the problem worse), so I've got another new front driveshaft on order now, from a different company. If this second one doesn't do the trick, I might start looking for a local balancing shop. Good to see that I'm on the right track. Thanks.
Good luck to you and make sure you don't have too much caster set on your front axle.
never thought about getting locally made drive shafts ... but now I will definitely check it out
Yeah, back before the internet, that was really the only way you could get a new driveshaft. I use my local shop all the time for rebalancing after knocking off weights on the trail and for rebuilds.
Great video! 65mph is where we notice the loud hum; we might have the same issue. Thanks!
I have bought local to me here in California for all of my vehicles for years. I did however recently go with Denny's Driveshaft chromoly nitrous ready driveshaft for my 72 Camaro. So far no issues. Obviously 4x4 shafts are more involved. Glad you got the driveshaft vibration issues fixed. Hopefully you let that supplier know of your issues.
Being from Vegas, let's just say I'm not surprised. Glad you got the vibrations out and I bet you would have saved a bunch just having your local shop do it right the first time.
Well that's a bummer. We're down in your neck of the woods a lot and the shop came highly recommended. I was sorely disappointed. All is good now though.
There are really only 2 driveline shops in town, and less competition equals....well you know the story. Love to wheel with you sometime when your down. I feel like your JL might be able to keep up with mine ha! Keep makin the good vids!
Thank u Cindy and Eddie, I’m learning so much about my new JL from your videos, it helps so much in deciding what and what not to do. I’m so pleased at the gas mileage I’m getting on regular fuel, almost 22mpg with the 6 speed manual and it’s a creeper, almost as good as my old Scout with its 4:88 gears 4x4ing up in the mountains here in the northwest. But I can’t make up my mind on my next tires of either sticking with the c load rating tires for the ride or going with E’s for the more puncture resitants, I got E’s on my powerwagon and there ruff on the paved roads, thinking about sacrificing some gas mileage for some comfort in the dam thing and dropping the tire pressure, anywho I really appreciate the info, I really like those axle shafts your running, but probably waiting tell the factory ones fail...........
Rolling resistance will eat up mpg for sure. AT's will always do better than MT's in that department and running more air will do better than less. E's will give you sidewall strength but you really do need to run them at a lower psi to make them comfortable. It's all a give and take.
I too just recently installed a front drive shaft from that same manufacturer. I've been having driveline vibrations since I installed it. Didn't think it would be the shaft with all the great reviews I've read.
That was my problem as well and why I had assumed for so long that the problem had to be on my end. The whole experience was frustrating to say the least but I'm glad that things are good now.
Hands down you are seriously making the best content for the JL on You Tube. I can’t express how helpful your videos are. Keep it up!!
LOL - we're far from being the hottest channel out there but we're flattered that you would say as much. :)
Thank you soo much for your videos.
This vibration just started to happen to mine about a week ago.
👍👍👍👍👍
Awesome! So glad that our video is helpful to you 😎
Thanks Eddie for the information, I bought new driveshafts last year and have noticed a vibration too. I may just remove these and have some locally made and have these in case of emergency
Before you do that, I would make sure that your pinion is set and your caster is within spec.
Hi Eddie, I have a 2023 392 rubicon, i recently put a Clayton 2.5" overland lift (only added approximately 1 additional inch from factory height) , put 37" baja boss all terrain on, and just swapped oem 3.73 ring and pinion w spicer 4.56 , caster set at 5.5 degrees, slightest vibration at 80 mph , as you probably know the 392 has FAD delete so drive shaft always spins, i was considering a new drive shaft, i thought the manufacturer of the one you just removed was the "go to" but now im skeptical, by chance would you have a manufacturer you recommend for the 392 front shaft?
As usual, thank you to you and cindy for taking care of us fellow jeep enthusiasts like you do !
So, there are a few things I can note. First off, unless the lift you installed was made specifically for a 392 or diesel, it will not give you the amount of lift you were expecting. Second, with 4.56 gears, your drive shaft will be spinning faster and without FAD, like a 392 does not have, you really should be running closer to 4° caster to mitigate vibrations. Third, you are more likely to not have vibrations with the factory shaft due to the rzeppa joint on the t-case. Being that it only has a u-joint on the pinion, that is the reason to try and run less caster. Forth, IF you still decide to run an aftermarket shaft, I personally prefer to have a local shop make a custom one for me. However, I have had good results with JE Reel in the past as well.
@wayalife thank you Eddie, I installed Clayton 2.5 inch lift and gained about an inch n half over factory ride height of the 392, I intentionally kept it minimal as this is my wife's daily driver so really trying to find a balance of "build" and "dependable drivability" , im installing all steersmarts drag link, tie rod bar , sector shaft reinforcement and damper relocation Monday, than to alignment shop Tuesday to confirm toe and caster, thanks for pointers and tips, you and Cindy are the best!
Ps. I give yas an update after steering components install and alignment
That sucks to have issues but I think the fact that you know your stuff it worked out good. I to agree it’s better to take measurements and then taylor made to your Jeep. I went with Tom Woods and they have been great.
To be fair, the original shop required that I take measurements too. Most shops do being that every Jeep is different. The only thing I've never liked about Woods is that he uses those gold seal chinese joints unless you pay to upgrade to something better. I've seen plenty of them break on the trail.
Wayalife I wonder how much it would be to switch those out?
Well, you could always buy new joints and replace them yourself. Then the cost would be just for the joints. I would recommend Neapco being that they're made in the USA or Spicer as they make good joints as well. Do NOT get them as greasable joints as they are weaker.
Wayalife sweet I think I’ll get the Spicer non greasable thanks so much for the recommendation.
There is nothing like a set of lock out hubs. Yeah I am old school.
Oh yeah, I'm with ya. Truth be told, I think our JL is the only one of our 6 Jeeps to not have them :)
Good to see Moby!!!
LOL!! Always our favorite :)
I would like to comment on your assumptions which are flawed. I would like to say I am a bit older then you and have been racing and building all kinds of vehicles, off road, on track drag and road racing, and race boats. I say this to lend credence to what I am going to tell you. I do have national championships also and a lot of experience in drive lines. You had the front Driveshaft lengthened so it was obviously too short. A short drive line will vibrate and obsolete sound do to the shaft being just a little sloppy in the slide yoke. It doesn’t matter how well it is balanced it will vibrate. I saw in your video that the Adams shaft was balanced. You could see the weights on the slip yoke. A little information for you. If you weld a weight on the tube you risk having the Driveshaft pull out of straight that is why the weights are welded on the slip instead of the tube if possible depending on the size of weight. I have had many drive lines made at this shop and some very custom ones. I also have a KOH Ultra 4. Never broke a Adams shaft and zero vibration issues. Before you slam someone or a company you should probably call them and let them know there may be a problem so they have a chance to fix the issue.
LOL!! Easy there champ. I think it is I who needs to comment on YOUR ASSUMPTIONS which are flawed. In spite of how much you've churched yourself up, I can't say I know you from Adam and really, couldn't care less. Since you seemed to have missed it, I SPECIFICALLY STATE in this video that I needed to get my front shaft lengthened and thought that was most likely the source of my vibrations. It was only AFTER I removed my front shaft that I went for a test drive and found that I STILL had vibrations coming from the REAR SHAFT. You know, the ones that I said I had from day one. Clearly, I'm nowhere near being the self-proclaimed badass that you are but before you get all butthurt over a vendor that you're a fanboy of and start slamming me, you should take the time and watch my video MORE CAREFULLY. NOWHERE in this video do I ever state who made my original driveshafts. Likewise, this video simply DOCUMENTED the problem I had and showed what it took to get it FIXED - PERIOD. If I thought the problem was caused by your beloved driveshaft manufacturer, I wouldn't have PAID MORE FRICKEN MONEY to get it fixed myself. Now, how about you get a life and go back to stroking their shafts.
Thank you for sharing. I recently replaced my front drive shaft and re-geared at the same time. I assumed the extra noise was from the gearing, but I am hearing an almost identical sound as you were getting. I will try getting the driveshaft re-balanced and see if that fixes it.
Before you do that, I would just pull the front shaft and go for a drive. IF the sound is gone, a rebalance is most likely in order.
Great Video! Always a good feeling when a problem is solved!
You know it! Glad you enjoyed the video :)
I appreciate the detail you put into your videos. We just completed a build on our 03 TJ and I do have the oscillating vibrations you addressed. I think it's time to take the front "locally built" shaft to another local shop to check balance. I already had the locally built rear shaft rebalanced so I can only assume the front is out as well. Hope we catch you on a trail one of these days!
Before you do that, I would remove your front shaft and take your TJ for a spin. If the vibration is gone, it could be something as simple as you having too much caster set. If it isn't gone, could be your pinion angle isn't lined up with the shaft. I know it's a pain but I would look at whatever you can do first.
@@wayalife Again I appreciate your input!
I have a 2010 JK and I have a vibration at 37-43 MPH only. No vibration at higher speeds and I just purchased new tires hoping it would fix it but it didn't. The vibration is not very bad and the steering wheel doesn't shimmy or vibrate. Could the shaft be my problem at a specific low speed?
If you're running aftermarket drive shafts, you may have a shaft that's out of balance. A speed related vibration is often times a balance issue or a pinion angle issue.
@@wayalife Thanks! Taking to shop tomorrow. Tested tonight and runs smooth over 45-75 and 0-35. after 35 it starts to rumble when accelerating and stops at ~43 or when I let off the gas.
@@patman6816 having the same issue did you ever find out what it was
Great to see you got rid of the vibration. It would have driven me crazy.
Thanks! It was driving us nuts!!
I hate that you had that issue but it's reassuring to see even a pro has to live in the real world like the rest of us!
LOL!! I hardly think of myself as a pro. Unlike some who get everything handed to them, I only know what I know because I've been there just like the rest of you :)
Finding that elusive fix can be more exciting than the drive (sometimes). Steve
LOL!! It was only elusive because I had been making the false assumption that the new driveshafts we had bought couldn't be the problem.
Thanks for the awesome video's. It has inspired me so much that I had to go and bay a Jeep and to also experience the jeep life.
Awesome, congratulations on your new Jeep!
@@wayalife Thanks man. Wood love it if you can check out my jeep and give me some pointers on what upgrades I can do next on my Jeep. Just upgraded the diff ratio's.
Eddie! I needed this! I have been chasing down driveline vibrations for a while now, and even just went to Moab... I will be doing the same procedure you just did and see if it works for me! Thank you please keep posting videos of how too and how to fix and diagnose. Even though I have a JK this still applies thank you.
Oh yeah, this is far from being a Jeep model specific problem. I hope it helps you out :)
Cindy: another nice job!.. what's the music? oh, Eddie, you did good too... haha j/k... you guys rock :) Time for a spring time episode of Nevada's Silver Lining, hint hint ;)
LOL!! Thank you. The music is something we bought the rights to and it has more of a description than a name. Sorry.
Camera and editing are epic.
Why thank you :)
Amazing video! Just a question. How are some ways to balance a JL drive shaft? To make it more parallel?
Sorry, I'm not sure I understand your question. To have your shaft balanced, you need to take it into a shop to have it done.
Sounds like the JK might have a light out. I think that fast blinking means there is a short, but im sure you know that lol. Happened to me on my JK
LOL - we're running LED tail lights and haven't installed a resistor for them.
I have a quick question? Why not remove the front driveshaft, then test drive, to make sure that's the problem before taking it to the diff shop? Love your videos. Great work. Thanks
As I mention in the video, we originally bought our front shaft as a flange style so that it would be quick and easy to install. When we got our ProRock 44, we got it with a pinion yoke and while we were still able to bolt up the front shaft, it pulled the slip shaft out by about an inch. Being that the shaft was new, I assumed the bad vibes we were having may have been a result of this change and figured re-tubing it should be something we do regardless.
Cool video on the drive lines great info for future issues
Glad to hear we could help provide you with some good info.
Nothing better than having something done CORRECTLY! I love ordering stuff, but there is something to be said for having local businesses handle your needs, and having them in front of you when there is an issue. Small, local businesses live or die by getting it right and making it right when there is an issue. Those poorly balanced shafts that you bought ......that's just unacceptable.
Couldn't agree more. Buying local is always what I prefer and for the reasons you've stated.
I have the same. Jeep replaced the drive shaft . Did not fix
If a new shaft didn't fix what you're feeling, you did not have the same.
Too bad you got “the shaft” Eddie. At least you got it fixed.
It's all good. Live and learn. Like you said, at least it's fixed now.
good information!! thanks a bunch!
Glad to hear you found it to be informative.
Thank you guys for the great advice.
Just sharing in almost real time what we were doing. Glad to know it might be able to help others out.
Needed this video so bad. Smashed that like and subscribe button for you.
LOL - awesome, thank you :)
Hey Eddie hope all is well. I’m getting ready to install a 2.5 inch game changer lift with 35 tires. I’ll probably regear as well to 4.88 since I carry more weight when overlanding (rooftop tent, fridge and gear). Keep in mind I usually pull both the fridge and tent when I’m not camping since this is also my daily driver. Any suggestions on what to do about the driveshafts since does are stock?
You should be fine with the stock shafts
Great video as always! Did you find that lengthening the tube on the front driveshaft was necessary to eliminate the vibration - or was this just an extra measure since you were taking it out to get balanced anyway?
Couldn't say it was "necessary" but we did do it just to make sure.
Great video as always Eddie. Now I know what to look for if I hear a vibration like that. I do have a question: you put red loctite on the driveline bolts but I didn't see you use heat to remove them. Is that due to the size of the bolts you're not afraid of twisting off or did you just not film the heating part?
I only use heat if it's too difficult to remove the nut or bolt in question.
I have a horrible vibration at 65. I took off the rear drive shaft and drove it in 4hi and the virbration was even worse and I could tell it was coming from the front. There was also a grinding noise now coming from somewhere as well. the jeep dealership just put on a brand new transfer case, so I'm thinking that's the issue. but, they won't really agree that it's their fault. What would cause major vibration in grinding in 4 hi? Is there an aftermarket transfer case for the gladiators?
Could be a lot of things. How much lift do you have? What gear ratio are you running? How much caster is set on your front axle? Are you running aftermarket drive shafts or OE? So many factors.
@@wayalife all of those things were in the jeep before the dealer replaced the transfer case had it drove fine. Now that they put a new one on, I’m getting all these vibrations. But, they won’t just simply go and replace it. They want to keep looking for other answers. 3 inch lift, Adams driveshaft. Not sure if the caster
@@apwrealty Why was a new transfer case installed?
@@wayalife because there were a lot of clunks and clanks when coming to a stop while the transmission was downshifting. apparently a lot of gladiators have this noise. So, they thought by changing the transfer case it would help that. I was thinking that probably wouldn't help, but they did it anyway. Then, I get this horrible grinding and vibration after the new one is installed
I just bought my JLUR have less than 400 miles on it and having the same issue. Pulsating vibration between 60-70 on the highway. No mods done as I have had this issue since I picked it up. Took it in and they say its normal the other two Rubicons on the lot do the same thing. Question is did you have the same vibration before your mods? Im probably going to take the rear driveshaft in to a local shop and have them balance it to see if its out of balance from the factory. But I don't feel like it's my obligation to find the problem or pay to have it fixed on my dime. Dealerships unfortunately don't have real mechanics anymore only guys that replace damaged parts. Thanks for the great videos
Did it work? I have the same issue with my bone stock 2020 JLR
Did it work same with a 21 jlur
So help me understand is he driving without a front or rear driveshaft when he was test driving ?
LOL - I was driving with just a rear only and then with just a front only and just to see which one was causing the vibration. Turns out that it was the rear.
why did you change the front axle ? did you have any issue with Front Axle Disconnect system ?
thanks for the video
Nope, no problem with it. We replaced it because we could. Dynatrac is a good friend and they offered one to us and we made a video about it. ruclips.net/video/QjxTHC8QUYA/видео.html
Whill this vibration cause like the jeep to vibrate meaning like a vibration on the whole jeep body ?
Yes, you would feel this throughout the whole body.
Thank you so much for the video. Very useful .👍
Awesome, glad to hear it :)
You have a garage full of nice toys. I have an 18 JL Rubicon Unlimited. I watched the video and your Jeep doesn't wander even with the big tires. I have a 2 in lift with 1250x20x35 Coopers and it wanders back and forth on the highway. Do you have any suggestions if you're able to get back to me? Thanks
More than likely, all you're feeling is the electric power steering which is a bit over sensitive. I felt this stock. Try running a lower psi, maybe 30 psi and that will help. You will need something like a Tazer to lower the threshold of your TPMS though.
Is a driveline vibration a serious issue that needs to be handled ASAP, or is it just a nuisance?
Depends on how bad it is. A really bad vibration can cause your transfer case to crack or break.
Gotta have an Excuse to Drive Moby! 😃
LOL - you know it :)
Great vid, as usual. Side Q: What’s a good entry lv CB radio choice, just for occasional trail use?
If you're willing to install something like my CB BAR, I really like an old school Cobra 29 amzn.to/2FoFGmx. If not, something like a Cobra 75 amzn.to/2OmwXW7 or Midland 75 is a good entry level CB amzn.to/2U8AdJY. You just won't have very good range or adjustments with the later 2.
my 2020 jlu is having vibration while downshifting. especially from 5 to 4 and 4 to 3 rd gears and i am getting a bump or burp around 1500 to 1800 rpms in some gears.....what it could be ?
Sorry, not sure what you're referring to. Could just what you'd feel during engine braking, could be the lugs on your tires. You'd need to be more specific in what you're experiencing. Also, you'll find a lot more help over on WAYALIFE.com.
Thanks Eddie for the video. I just took off my “Adams front drive line” and I don’t have anymore vibs anymore. My question is how much caster are you running with the new balanced driveline? Im also 5.13 and fad delete.
I have a ProRock 44 and it came with 6° of built in caster. Needless to say, that's about what I'm running.
Thanks Eddie! You guys have the best videos.. Keep it coming 😎
Best JL videos on RUclips. Classy, informational & educational. Keep up the great work guys. A+
Thank you, we so glad to hear you enjoy our videos.
great job Eddie, man your videos are amazing. you should get credit when other people fix their problems from watching your videos!
LOL!! Thank you, I really do appreciate it :)
How can you tell original vibration came from drive line and not the death wobble issue?
Ummm, death wobble is a violent uncontrollable shaking of your entire Jeep and to the point where the only way to make it stop is to bring your Jeep to a stop or close to it. I've not had that problem on this Jeep. Death wobble is a condition that is caused by loose or worn out steering or suspension components. Driveline vibrations are literally just that, "vibrations" as in, a very fast but slight almost buzzing sensation. Typically, they are speed sensitive and oscillate as well. The two are so completely different things.
Thats what she said
No bad vibes when it comes to a Jeep
LOL - I suppose that is true :)
I don't have a driveshaft shop local to me so I had plans to buy Adams because everyone says they are the best in the business. Would you recommend me going a different route? Keeping in mind I don't have a local shop that can make them for me, or balance them for me after I buy them...
Click on this link to see ACTUAL invoice of what I paid to have a custom 1350 shaft made vs. what they cost me from Adams wayalife.com/showthread.php/56762-VIDEO-JL-JOURNAL-A-BAD-VIBE-Tracking-Down-amp-Fixing-Driveshaft-Vibrations?p=1123237&viewfull=1#post1123237
I should note, I bought my shafts from them in spite of them being double the cost because of all the rave reviews. All I can do is share my experiences with you. If I have a recommendation, I might give JE Reel a look. Back when I was still living in SoCal, they're who I preferred to run.
Awesome vid as always! 👍
Thank you :)
Great video thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it.
Those king bump stops 👀👀👀
LOL!! A future project :)
Do you get better fuel economy with the 5:13 ? Also does your jeep shift less ? I just put 37s on my jlur and I am not that worried about the crappy mpgs but do not like that it shifts more !!!
No, you will get worse fuel economy with 5.13s being that you will run on the high side of rpms especially at highway speeds. Off the line acceleration is better an it will allow you to get to 8th gear again - shift less.
Thanks for info
You sir are the master Jeep Machanic !
Hi , do you have why my tire vibrates on snow at high revs , regular doesn’t drive even at high speeds .
Safe to assume you're in 4WD when you feel it and not at high speeds? If so, your front drive shaft is probably out of balance or has a problem related to it.
@@wayalife thank you , I was thinking was ball joints or something related with steering system . Any thoughts?
Lots of problems with lifting Jeeps and adding big tires.
LOL - this was just one problem and it was one that I was able to address. No more problems now.
great video thanks, good to know on driveshaft info, do you have the info for the shop im in susanville would like to see if i can get a driveshaft made from them, thank s
Glad to know that you found our video to be informative. The shop we use the one in Reno and you can find out more about them here drivelineandgear.com/
Dang, I bet my freaking Adams Driveshaft is unbalanced also... Freaking figures... Gotta hit a local shop now.
Did you ever get your driveshaft checked?
So who balanced the shaft after you removed the flange to install a yoke?
LOL - love how all you fanboys come on here with your talking points instead of actually watching the video. 👍🏻
Watched the video. Who balanced after you installed the yoke?
Sam Pridmore if you watched the video, you’d know that I never changed the rear tone. You know, the one that was still vibrating after I removed the front shaft.
Eddie the master!!🥇
LOL - you're too kind :)
I didn’t have an issue until I went to Top of the world trail and had a few hits. I have the metalcloak skids on my stock JLUR but noticed the vibration after that run. Took it to a Jeep dealership in Provo and they couldn’t identify any issues. I also towed an Rpod behind it on the way home to Cali. Sounds like a driveshaft problem but I am not mechanical. I notice my vibration at 1600-2000 rpms 8th gear. I also notice it rattle a little sometimes in reverse. Any thoughts?
More than likely, you hit your driveshaft on the trail and that could have knocked a balancing weight off. A common problem.
@@wayalife do I just take it to a shop and have them add a balance? On your video you made it look so simple. Is that expensive to do. Do you know a shop in SoCal or Utah?
@@camvil11 Yup, just pull the shaft and take it to your local driveline shop. In SoCal, I would recommend Powertrain in Garden Grove.
@@wayalife I took it to Jeep to check out as I don't know how to take out a drive shaft (don't trust myself anyway) and they tell me there is nothing wrong, just maybe tires. I am not sure but they say all is ok. Can I trust the dealership mechanics?
@@camvil11 Could be. Hard to say for sure without seeing and hearing what you're seeing and hearing for myself.
Great video, so I live in Reno I take it you recommend getting driveshafts from the shop in your vid. I just went from a TJ to a new JL and appreciate your knowledge 👍
Yup, I would highly recommend Driveline & Gear in Sparks. They do outstanding work, have fast turnaround times and are affordable.
Did you change out your Adams driveshafts for custom driveshafts, or did Driveline Gear & Service fix your Adam's driveshafts? Seems like you replaced them for customs from the video.. I am having issues with my Adams Driveshafts too; vibration, rear driveshaft is supposedly too long, had to have a 5:13 re-gear due to supposed hammering on the rear pinion and loosening up the bearing etc. during articulation. And I had email exchange with Adams Driveshaft support to make sure I got the right length for a 3.5" lift, etc. prior to ordering. Wondering if I should do the same here... It's costing me a chunk of change dealing with these issues after I went with Adams Driveshafts after hearing how good they were, and then dealing with the unexpected timely and overall costly end results.
My local shop was able to modify my front shaft and rebalance the rear to make them work.
Good to know, I'll be doing the same.
Ok so you got new drive shafts or got your old one's fixed and balanced?
The front got re-tubed/balanced and the rear just got re-balanced.
Cómo suena ese motor ... exquisito.
Awesome outstanding job have a great day
Very helpful video, thank you 😀
Awesome, glad to hear it :)
Good stuff things like that or a rattle drive ya bonkers always get a kick ,when you say to make it easier lol everything you do you make it look easy lol as always be safe
LOL!! Well, it never feels that easy but glad to hear it looks like it :)
Or awesome camera work, you guys do a great job all around very passionate about what you do on the trail an off
Love the videos.
Could the oscillating you were experiencing have been both drive shafts vibrating at different freqs?
You mean to get them vibrating bad as they were? I suppose it's possible.
"6 guys deep, waiting for their shafts"..gottcha...
How do they lengthen a drive shaft?
It has to be re-tubed. They cut off what is there and weld on a new longer one.
The techno music was annoying had to mute it, start and stop constantly rest of video is great
Awesome. Glad to hear you found your mute button and knew how to use it :)
So appreciate this videos Eddie! Thanks for sharing. Keep on jeeping!
Awesome, glad to hear it :)
Always lessons to be learned in life. Thanks for the video
Glad we could share this with you.
Have you spoken with the makers of the driveshafts regarding a warranty on them? I have had a few shafts made by them with 0 issues. Maybe it was a fluke with yours?
LOL!! What you see in the video pretty much happened in real time. As in, I wasn't sure what the problem was or that balancing was in fact the issue until AFTER we got it fixed. What I knew was that I needed to get my front shaft re-tubed and doing that locally was way cheaper. The rear shaft was what really stung but I wasn't about to ship a very heavy shaft that measures over 48" to them, lose it for days on end and only to hope they'd make things right. Hell, I probably paid less to have it re-balanced locally than it would have cost me to ship it to them. If you've had good luck with them, more power to you. Me, I won't be buying from them again and if only because my local shop can make a better shaft and for LESS THAN HALF the cost.
@@wayalife totally makes sense for that. Too bad that you had the issue you did. I am glad you got your vibration issue taken care of and nothing major was the problem.
So you modified the shaft yourself but put the blame on Adams for your problems with the driveshaft vibrating. 🤦♂️
Crisco Tj funny, LOL - so, you didn’t watch the video but chimed in anyway with whatever Tom Woods told you.
No Eddie I have watched the video several times now and can’t figure out why you admit to altering the driveshaft then turn around and blame it on Adams. It was your fault. Man up and take credit for it. By the way I don’t run Adams or Tom Woods in my Jeep and had a similar problem with the ones I do run . I contacted them and they made it right without putting them on blast in a video. But you continue to be you!
Crisco Tj funny, I don’t recall ever saying who made the shaft. Also, I do believe I clearly state that I assumed the problem was caused by me. But hey, you say you watched the video several times so clearly, you must be right.
Kasey Mcclain try watching the video dumbass. At about 2 minutes in, I specifically state what I though was part of the problem. You’ll also find that I still had vibrations AFTER I took off the front shaft 🙄
Always love your videos and content!!! Thank you both!!!
We're so glad to hear it.
Are you reusing your u-bolts?
Yes I am.
Not a very glowing review for Adams shafts. That sucks they didn't balance very well or at all.
I have front vibrations also. I've checked everything. All is good. Guess it is my Adams Driveshaft also... Pretty crappy IMHO..
10:22 Lol!!!