Hey man, you really did that the hard way and probably got more air into the system. Next time you need to disconnect any brake line just do this. 1. Connect your bleeder tube/bottle to one of the caliper bleeders and loosen/open the bleeder. 2. Depress the brake pedal and find some way to hold it down (I find a 28" 2x4 slide under the seat works well on my Golf R, then just slide the seat forward positioning the 2x4 on the brake pedal). With the pedal depressed the system is closed off from the open reservoir; think of it like when you put your finger over a straw and lift it out of a glass of liquid. Virtually no brake fluid will come out of the disconnected lines as long as the brake pedal is depressed; now you can disconnect your lines and work at your leisure without brake fluid poring out and getting air in your ABS/MC system. I have left line disconnected overnight like this and no problem. it makes the entire process so much easier and cleaner. If you ever read a shop manual this is what they tell you to do, of course they specify some fancy tool for the brake pedal, but a 2x4 works great.
Great tip Eric. Conceptually, I get it and it makes total sense. I recently performed a Q5 upgrade on an A4 for a client and with what you recommended, I think I'll include this method into the DIY. Much appreciate the tip!
I used usp ttrs brake lines and they fit the clip near the caliper. No zip ties needed. Did have to Dremel out the upper mount just a bit however. Thanks for the inspiration. 👍🏼
Just saw this video. I also just purchased a set of these from someone on the Audizine forums. However, I wanted to know how it rides on your vehicle? I have a 2015 Audi s3 with pretty much every bolt-on and a stage 2 tune. I'm pushing way too much hp to still use the stock brakes. I jumped at the chance to get these. However, I read that some people have had issues with brake squeals and fitment. I currently have 19x8.5 +45 offset wheels on my car. I am lowered 1 inch from stock. There is no rubbing. I don't run any spacers as of now either. Have you had any issues? Is your car lowered as well? Clearance good? Please let me know when you can! Thanks and keep making great vids!! =)
Good afternoon, First luv the videos, I'm doing this conversion myself now as well. I got a hold of the TTRS 4 piston calipers with OEM pads already installed. I even got in contact with HEL brake lines in the UK and the made me my brake lines conversion, they were awesome. Right now I'm looking between some Zimmermann and SHW 370x32mm rotors, maybe you have some thoughts on quality between the two? Also want to as you about the balancing weights, if I needed them? And the brake dust shield, which one would I be looking for? The RS3 8V's or TTRS 8j's brake dust shield? Thanks for all your help, will be doing many more upgrades to my S3 8v soon 🤙🏼
Hello Jose, congrats on the purchase of the TTR-S brake setup. Please see my response below regarding your questions: - Rotors, Zimmermann manufacturing has been making rotors for a long time. They make excellent rotors for many high performance cars. - I never used the balancing weights - For the brake dust shield, I ordered the ones for the TTR-S and had to slightly modify them to fit the S3.
Awesome detailed install. Curious if you noticed much a difference in pedal feel or ABS function with the swap as on paper there is about an 8% increase volume of these pistons over factory.
I've just purchased the same TTRS calipers, discs, lines and pads. Spoke to a reputable VAG tuner today and I was told they wouldn't fit. I would need vagbremtechnic adapter and 345mm/ oem S3 8V discs. Do you have adapters on your or are they straight off a TTRS? Good video very informative.
Ryan, if you purchased the EXACTLY setup as me, it is a DIRECT bolt on fit. I did not have to run any adapters on my front brakes. The only modification that I performed, was trimming of TTRS heat shields to fit the S3. That was not too difficult. Where the VAG tuner may be speaking about, is your rear brakes. I run 356mm S6 rotors which DO require adapters from Vagbremtechnic. Again, the MK2 TTRS brakes are a direct fit into the 8V S3. There are several S3 owners who run it.
I was lucky and found a local Audi enthusiast who couldn't get them to fit his S4. My recommendation is to keep an eye out on your local forums or check eBay.
Jared Greenhill , if you're able to find a complete set in good condition, it's safe to say $1k is a good deal. Considering the cheapest 4-piston BBK out there is $2500, this is a worthwhile upgrade.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic thank you! I just came across your post on the Audizine forum which also links to your video. As for the brake lines themselves which part of the line did you have to dremel out? This is the one part that is concerning to me.
@@tomforde6558 the lines themselves do not need to be altered. It's the metal housing that they go into. The S3's brake line "hole" is smaller than the TTRS's hole. Therefore, I dremelled it to accommodate the size different. Is it dangerous? absolutely not.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic I wasn’t worried about danger I was more concerned with extra work living in an apartment complex haha. And good to know that it’s the port from the S3 going into the TTRS lines that would need to be widened. Thank you for the tips very much appreciated. I am going to be ordering the Vagbremtechnic caliper carrier kit which has SS brake lines included but also allows fitment for 340/345mm rotors (if I want to save corner weight or if rotor choice becomes scarce). Can’t thank you enough for the walk through as this retrofit was seemingly much harder before!
@@tomforde6558 I understand. You want to keep things simply as it's kinda funny not to have your own privacy when working on your car. Let me know how everything turns out for you. It's been over a year since I sold my TTRS brake setup but can still remember how impressive they stopped.
Hey! I’m most likely about to do this to my 2017 S3. Is there ANYTHING that would make this kit not a direct plug and play kit? Any help is appreciated. Thank you!
Tom, for the most part, this is a Plug N Play. I do mention in the video that the TTR-S brake lines will require slight modification to fit the S3's bracket. Aside from that minor issue, you shouldn't have any issues. Oh...make sure you run 19" as very few 18's wi fit over the calipers.
@ Emericasktr1, after doing a little research, I do not think so. The thread pitch/size might be larger or smaller on the RS3 calipers. Unless you have a set you can test, it might be risky.
@@Emericasktr1, that's what I would do. Buy them as a plan B. If the S3 lines fit, just return them! And of course, please update me too because I'd like to share that info if anyone ever ask again.
Check out ECS's page. They list out everything for you: www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/front-big-brake-kit-ttrs-upgrade-drilled-rotors-370x32/8j0615108bkt/
Mind me asking how much this conversion ran you and where you picked up the parts? This looks like a nice upgrade for my mk7 R, I believe the install would be similar. Nice vid!
TJ Vanille a complete TT-RS setup should run you less than $1k and that's with SS lines and fluids. My kit was sourced locally so I was lucky. Just keep an eye out on different forums or place a "wanted" thread. In my research, one of the first photos I saw were on a MK7 chassis so I know these will work for you.
Same question, looking for an upgrade for my MK7 GTI PP. Tracked my car for the first time and it was amazing but the brakes & tires became an issue at the end of a very hard day. A cheap upgrade is definitely in order
I wonder who tells you that you need to put so much grease on the back of the brake pads? in more advanced brakes, the pads are generally glued to the caliper piston. you do not need to put so much grease there, the maximum that is needed is to lubricate the surface of the piston with a thin layer of grease. and you don't even need to do that. you understand that at high speeds when braking, dust from the pads flies from the pads, and it all sticks to this lubricant. the most important thing in the brakes is the working fluid, proper bleeding, tightness of the system. and cleanliness. brake dust should be washed off regularly. if you have a Lucas brake system, the same thing and always clean lubrication in the guides and that's it. These are the main rules of the braking system. people like to wash the brakes at close range under pressure, and I did that too until I figured it out. this is especially bad for the Lucas TRW, Ende ATE brake system. rubber cuffs on the rails are weak and easily let moisture into the rail when you wash them with high pressure at close range. this cannot be done, the brakes are well washed with a tool that wash the rims. we all know this remedy after application, it turns red. first, just pour water on the brakes without pressure, namely, pour water on them, then apply this product, let it stand for a couple of minutes, then clean the brakes with a soft brush. then you wash it off with clean water, and in the end, for reliability, take a special brake cleaner that smells like gasoline, and point it at the piston pads in this part in order to wash off the dust of the pad material as much as possible. for example, once every 2-4 months at the sink I remove the wheels, unscrew one guide bolt, move the caliper, remove the pads and thoroughly wash off all the dirt. believe me this is the best for the braking system, I drive on the autobahns of Germany, the speed is mostly 150+, and you always have to brake very hard, the brakes are always effective, the brake discs are lapped evenly, without any wavy stripes, without cracks, etc. therefore, your life depends on the brakes, and cleanliness is the key to our health. therefore, the main thing in the brakes is cleanliness, and not the amount of lubricant between the piston and the pads.
You have expressed out some EXCELLENT pointers and I thank you for the input and feedback. In the States, we do not have the luxury of the Autobahn and the high speeds you're allowed to drive. We can though, take your pointers to keep the braking system working as optimally as possible. I will give some of your techniques a try/
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic These methods have been proven by people for years. and all that I have listed is not my discovery, it’s just that I learned from someone, but what I myself thought about. but all these methods have long been used by experienced motorists, not car owners, but by those who truly love cars and consider the car almost a part of themselves. these are the people who are really looking for what is best for his car, and not so if only it were. ideally, the pads are glued to the piston, special inserts are sold on which there are fixing springs on one side, and on the other side there are two-sided tape, so the springs are inserted into the piston and the pad is glued to the tape, so that when you release the brake, the pad would return back with piston and did not lie on the brake disc. What's the big deal about cast iron brakes? this is so that they heat up minimally, so it is better when the pad touches the disc only when the brake is pressed.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic I know from where it all began to lubricate the pads. after some time after installation, when the pad is already a little worn out by 30%, when braking from the very beginning, the pads tap, and when you release the brake pedal too. and the grease, mixed with dust, serves as a sticky pillow. Here comes the fashion. but in fact it should be used if you are going to the track and load the brakes until they light up so that the pads do not stick to the caliper pistons. it is a thin layer of copper or ceramic, I think ceramic is better. but in such a case you must immediately replace the brakes, because they will no longer be effective. and even here, on such brakes that you installed, they came up with inserts that you throw out along with the pads. so to speak, they serve as a retainer for the pads and as a heat pad. I'll drop the link.
@@timbradoundwasserschlagerd7329 Thank you again, for your extensive knowledge of the braking system. Too many people do not realize that the braking system. is the most important aspect of your vehicle!
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic any tuning needs to start with the brake system, even a scooter can accelerate, but can it stop. I've had problems with the braking system a couple of times. I changed 3 sets of rear brakes and 2 sets of front brakes in a year. could not understand the reason. and it turned out that the handbrake cable was tightened roofing felts from the factory, roofing felts the previous owner. and no one could tell me why the brakes overheated on my car, some said that the ABS unit was not working, others said that the vacuum was not working. and somehow he decided to loosen the cable and see what happens. and even on completely overheated brakes, the car began to slow down 10 times better. after loosening the rope. and there were no symptoms that it could be constricted. so it’s such a thing who has encountered something, he can reveal an already familiar malfunction, even if he is not a super master in this matter, and a super master like those. who I consulted can not understand what's wrong. i want to put on the front calipers with 4 pistons from porsche macan with 340x30mm discs they fit vw. and the brake master cylinder from the Audi RS 3, which has a 25.4mm piston. then the brakes will be exactly what I want on mine. and these TRW calipers are very heavy, one caliper complete with pads weighs almost 8 kg. and a Brembo caliper with pads weighs a maximum of 3-3.5 kg. and this is very good for suspension.
Hey man, you really did that the hard way and probably got more air into the system. Next time you need to disconnect any brake line just do this. 1. Connect your bleeder tube/bottle to one of the caliper bleeders and loosen/open the bleeder. 2. Depress the brake pedal and find some way to hold it down (I find a 28" 2x4 slide under the seat works well on my Golf R, then just slide the seat forward positioning the 2x4 on the brake pedal).
With the pedal depressed the system is closed off from the open reservoir; think of it like when you put your finger over a straw and lift it out of a glass of liquid. Virtually no brake fluid will come out of the disconnected lines as long as the brake pedal is depressed; now you can disconnect your lines and work at your leisure without brake fluid poring out and getting air in your ABS/MC system. I have left line disconnected overnight like this and no problem. it makes the entire process so much easier and cleaner. If you ever read a shop manual this is what they tell you to do, of course they specify some fancy tool for the brake pedal, but a 2x4 works great.
Great tip Eric. Conceptually, I get it and it makes total sense. I recently performed a Q5 upgrade on an A4 for a client and with what you recommended, I think I'll include this method into the DIY. Much appreciate the tip!
Another advantage of the larger rotor is better heat dissipation under track conditions.
I used usp ttrs brake lines and they fit the clip near the caliper. No zip ties needed. Did have to Dremel out the upper mount just a bit however. Thanks for the inspiration. 👍🏼
Thanks for the support Adam!
Great video and wonderfully detailed; thanks Peter!
Thanks for the kind words Luc!
I upgraded to TTS brakes, they fit the stock rotors
Calabria96, TTS brakes are another favorable upgrade.
Just saw this video. I also just purchased a set of these from someone on the Audizine forums. However, I wanted to know how it rides on your vehicle? I have a 2015 Audi s3 with pretty much every bolt-on and a stage 2 tune. I'm pushing way too much hp to still use the stock brakes. I jumped at the chance to get these. However, I read that some people have had issues with brake squeals and fitment. I currently have 19x8.5 +45 offset wheels on my car. I am lowered 1 inch from stock. There is no rubbing. I don't run any spacers as of now either. Have you had any issues? Is your car lowered as well? Clearance good? Please let me know when you can! Thanks and keep making great vids!! =)
Good afternoon,
First luv the videos, I'm doing this conversion myself now as well. I got a hold of the TTRS 4 piston calipers with OEM pads already installed. I even got in contact with HEL brake lines in the UK and the made me my brake lines conversion, they were awesome. Right now I'm looking between some Zimmermann and SHW 370x32mm rotors, maybe you have some thoughts on quality between the two? Also want to as you about the balancing weights, if I needed them? And the brake dust shield, which one would I be looking for? The RS3 8V's or TTRS 8j's brake dust shield? Thanks for all your help, will be doing many more upgrades to my S3 8v soon 🤙🏼
Hello Jose, congrats on the purchase of the TTR-S brake setup. Please see my response below regarding your questions:
- Rotors, Zimmermann manufacturing has been making rotors for a long time. They make excellent rotors for many high performance cars.
- I never used the balancing weights
- For the brake dust shield, I ordered the ones for the TTR-S and had to slightly modify them to fit the S3.
Awesome detailed install. Curious if you noticed much a difference in pedal feel or ABS function with the swap as on paper there is about an 8% increase volume of these pistons over factory.
Drew, I remember with this setup, brake feel was solid with virtually no brake fade.
I've just purchased the same TTRS calipers, discs, lines and pads. Spoke to a reputable VAG tuner today and I was told they wouldn't fit. I would need vagbremtechnic adapter and 345mm/ oem S3 8V discs. Do you have adapters on your or are they straight off a TTRS? Good video very informative.
Ryan, if you purchased the EXACTLY setup as me, it is a DIRECT bolt on fit. I did not have to run any adapters on my front brakes. The only modification that I performed, was trimming of TTRS heat shields to fit the S3. That was not too difficult. Where the VAG tuner may be speaking about, is your rear brakes. I run 356mm S6 rotors which DO require adapters from Vagbremtechnic. Again, the MK2 TTRS brakes are a direct fit into the 8V S3. There are several S3 owners who run it.
Hi can I ask you your wheels specs? 8,5x19 et45? Thanks
It's been a few years but I believe they were 19x8.5 ET35.
Very nice! Great video. I'm also curious where you sourced the parts.
I was lucky and found a local Audi enthusiast who couldn't get them to fit his S4. My recommendation is to keep an eye out on your local forums or check eBay.
I assume they were used? What would be a good pricepoint for these?
Jared Greenhill , if you're able to find a complete set in good condition, it's safe to say $1k is a good deal. Considering the cheapest 4-piston BBK out there is $2500, this is a worthwhile upgrade.
Hey Peter, do you know if this setup would clear the stock 19" forged performance pack wheels without spacers?
David, the OEM 19" performance wheels are either ET48 or ET45 and will not clear the calipers. You'll need at least a 5-7mm spacer.
I am about to do this exact job. Still need to order new brake lines. You think the calipers would clear with factory 19” wheels?
Yes, these will clear factory 19's.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic thank you! I just came across your post on the Audizine forum which also links to your video. As for the brake lines themselves which part of the line did you have to dremel out? This is the one part that is concerning to me.
@@tomforde6558 the lines themselves do not need to be altered. It's the metal housing that they go into. The S3's brake line "hole" is smaller than the TTRS's hole. Therefore, I dremelled it to accommodate the size different. Is it dangerous? absolutely not.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic I wasn’t worried about danger I was more concerned with extra work living in an apartment complex haha. And good to know that it’s the port from the S3 going into the TTRS lines that would need to be widened. Thank you for the tips very much appreciated. I am going to be ordering the Vagbremtechnic caliper carrier kit which has SS brake lines included but also allows fitment for 340/345mm rotors (if I want to save corner weight or if rotor choice becomes scarce). Can’t thank you enough for the walk through as this retrofit was seemingly much harder before!
@@tomforde6558 I understand. You want to keep things simply as it's kinda funny not to have your own privacy when working on your car. Let me know how everything turns out for you. It's been over a year since I sold my TTRS brake setup but can still remember how impressive they stopped.
Would the TTRS brakes fit a regular a3 in the same way? Is it adviseable to do such a retrofit?
Yes HawX777, these will fit on the 8V A3 as well.
Hey! I’m most likely about to do this to my 2017 S3. Is there ANYTHING that would make this kit not a direct plug and play kit? Any help is appreciated. Thank you!
Tom, for the most part, this is a Plug N Play. I do mention in the video that the TTR-S brake lines will require slight modification to fit the S3's bracket. Aside from that minor issue, you shouldn't have any issues. Oh...make sure you run 19" as very few 18's wi fit over the calipers.
Would the brake lines from the S3 fit with RS3 brakes just fine? Looking to install a set of RS3 calipers on mine
@ Emericasktr1, after doing a little research, I do not think so. The thread pitch/size might be larger or smaller on the RS3 calipers. Unless you have a set you can test, it might be risky.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic Thank you for the quick reply. I will probably just buy new lines to be safe
@@Emericasktr1, that's what I would do. Buy them as a plan B. If the S3 lines fit, just return them! And of course, please update me too because I'd like to share that info if anyone ever ask again.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic Absolutely! Might hold off until spring but I might get too excited and do it sooner haha.
What’s the wheel specs on ur 19s
19x8.5 ET35
Thanks Peter. What's the ET offset of the wheels in your video?
Ryan, my wheel offset is ET35, 19x8.5
Do you have the oem number parts?
Check out ECS's page. They list out everything for you:
www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/front-big-brake-kit-ttrs-upgrade-drilled-rotors-370x32/8j0615108bkt/
Hi, will the TTRS fit the S3 8p?
Unfortunately, it only fits the 8V chassis.
Many thanks :)
What are the specs on the wheels
@ B5_Addict 19x8.5 ET35
Where can I purchase the kit？
Victor, you can use a vendor named Killerbrakes but they only sell new TT-RS kits. Also keep and eye out on eBay as well as some of the TT forums.
The Audi S3 Fanatic Thank you very much
Mind me asking how much this conversion ran you and where you picked up the parts? This looks like a nice upgrade for my mk7 R, I believe the install would be similar. Nice vid!
TJ Vanille a complete TT-RS setup should run you less than $1k and that's with SS lines and fluids.
My kit was sourced locally so I was lucky. Just keep an eye out on different forums or place a "wanted" thread. In my research, one of the first photos I saw were on a MK7 chassis so I know these will work for you.
Same question, looking for an upgrade for my MK7 GTI PP. Tracked my car for the first time and it was amazing but the brakes & tires became an issue at the end of a very hard day. A cheap upgrade is definitely in order
Just bought a set for 600 :D
For a complete set, that is a steal.
I wonder who tells you that you need to put so much grease on the back of the brake pads? in more advanced brakes, the pads are generally glued to the caliper piston. you do not need to put so much grease there, the maximum that is needed is to lubricate the surface of the piston with a thin layer of grease. and you don't even need to do that. you understand that at high speeds when braking, dust from the pads flies from the pads, and it all sticks to this lubricant. the most important thing in the brakes is the working fluid, proper bleeding, tightness of the system. and cleanliness. brake dust should be washed off regularly. if you have a Lucas brake system, the same thing and always clean lubrication in the guides and that's it. These are the main rules of the braking system. people like to wash the brakes at close range under pressure, and I did that too until I figured it out. this is especially bad for the Lucas TRW, Ende ATE brake system. rubber cuffs on the rails are weak and easily let moisture into the rail when you wash them with high pressure at close range. this cannot be done, the brakes are well washed with a tool that wash the rims. we all know this remedy after application, it turns red. first, just pour water on the brakes without pressure, namely, pour water on them, then apply this product, let it stand for a couple of minutes, then clean the brakes with a soft brush. then you wash it off with clean water, and in the end, for reliability, take a special brake cleaner that smells like gasoline, and point it at the piston pads in this part in order to wash off the dust of the pad material as much as possible. for example, once every 2-4 months at the sink I remove the wheels, unscrew one guide bolt, move the caliper, remove the pads and thoroughly wash off all the dirt. believe me this is the best for the braking system, I drive on the autobahns of Germany, the speed is mostly 150+, and you always have to brake very hard, the brakes are always effective, the brake discs are lapped evenly, without any wavy stripes, without cracks, etc. therefore, your life depends on the brakes, and cleanliness is the key to our health. therefore, the main thing in the brakes is cleanliness, and not the amount of lubricant between the piston and the pads.
You have expressed out some EXCELLENT pointers and I thank you for the input and feedback. In the States, we do not have the luxury of the Autobahn and the high speeds you're allowed to drive. We can though, take your pointers to keep the braking system working as optimally as possible. I will give some of your techniques a try/
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic
These methods have been proven by people for years. and all that I have listed is not my discovery, it’s just that I learned from someone, but what I myself thought about. but all these methods have long been used by experienced motorists, not car owners, but by those who truly love cars and consider the car almost a part of themselves. these are the people who are really looking for what is best for his car, and not so if only it were. ideally, the pads are glued to the piston, special inserts are sold on which there are fixing springs on one side, and on the other side there are two-sided tape, so the springs are inserted into the piston and the pad is glued to the tape, so that when you release the brake, the pad would return back with piston and did not lie on the brake disc. What's the big deal about cast iron brakes? this is so that they heat up minimally, so it is better when the pad touches the disc only when the brake is pressed.
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic
I know from where it all began to lubricate the pads. after some time after installation, when the pad is already a little worn out by 30%, when braking from the very beginning, the pads tap, and when you release the brake pedal too. and the grease, mixed with dust, serves as a sticky pillow. Here comes the fashion. but in fact it should be used if you are going to the track and load the brakes until they light up so that the pads do not stick to the caliper pistons. it is a thin layer of copper or ceramic, I think ceramic is better. but in such a case you must immediately replace the brakes, because they will no longer be effective. and even here, on such brakes that you installed, they came up with inserts that you throw out along with the pads. so to speak, they serve as a retainer for the pads and as a heat pad. I'll drop the link.
@@timbradoundwasserschlagerd7329 Thank you again, for your extensive knowledge of the braking system. Too many people do not realize that the braking system. is the most important aspect of your vehicle!
@@TheAutomotiveFanatic
any tuning needs to start with the brake system, even a scooter can accelerate, but can it stop. I've had problems with the braking system a couple of times. I changed 3 sets of rear brakes and 2 sets of front brakes in a year. could not understand the reason. and it turned out that the handbrake cable was tightened roofing felts from the factory, roofing felts the previous owner. and no one could tell me why the brakes overheated on my car, some said that the ABS unit was not working, others said that the vacuum was not working. and somehow he decided to loosen the cable and see what happens. and even on completely overheated brakes, the car began to slow down 10 times better. after loosening the rope. and there were no symptoms that it could be constricted. so it’s such a thing who has encountered something, he can reveal an already familiar malfunction, even if he is not a super master in this matter, and a super master like those. who I consulted can not understand what's wrong. i want to put on the front calipers with 4 pistons from porsche macan with 340x30mm discs they fit vw. and the brake master cylinder from the Audi RS 3, which has a 25.4mm piston. then the brakes will be exactly what I want on mine. and these TRW calipers are very heavy, one caliper complete with pads weighs almost 8 kg. and a Brembo caliper with pads weighs a maximum of 3-3.5 kg. and this is very good for suspension.