If it's a zero turn it's probably the position sensor to detect that it's in park/neutral. I have to move my left lap bar slightly inboard to get it to start.
Solenoid is pulling down but the internal contacts that send power to starter is shot. Meter the power connection at starter for 12v when you turn the start switch.....bet there is NADA.. if so, run a piece of like 10awg or better wire from 12v battery terminal to starter. If starter is good, starter will start to spin starter immediately. If not starter is shot or is locked. If it's a bad interlock switch or a switch not set (ie, blades engaged, brake NOT set, operator not in seat) you won't hear anything.
My mower will do the same thing when the engine is at a top dead center spot where ots real stiff, i spin the flywheel to a loose spot and it allows the starter to spin it easier at the initial grab and turns right over. Have to do it almost every time. Batterys good its just to much initial force for the starter to start spinning the motor get it to a free spot and fires right up
Starter Solenoid. I’ve sold and repaired lawn equipment my whole life. Leave the key in the on position, Bridge the solenoid by laying a screw drive over the top 2 post. Your solenoid shouldn’t be attached to the starter. Standing behind the machine it’s on the left hand side under battery
There is a wire that comes from the switch that runs through all the safety’s and returns to the switch. That then goes to the solenoid. Take a wire from the switch and run it directly to the solenoid. It dosen’t bypass the safety’s, it’s just like a check or something and one of the safety checks aren’t working properly. Next, clean all your grounds with sandpaper and reinstall. Bad ground will cause voltage drop throughout your safety switches and by the time it gets to the solenoid it’s not strong enough to crank. Just clicks. Hollah when you got it cranked!
Best I can tell it ended up being a grounding issue, less than 200 hours on it and the multimeter showed everything to be working, ended up replacing the switch, pto and solenoid to no avail, grabbed my hot and ground wires one last time and it finally fired up
@@LakesideShop yes sir! Have fought mine on my cub cadet for years and littrilly last week came to the conclusion the ground was the problem… glad you didn’t spend years throwing money at new safety switches and such. Went through 4-5 starter rebuilds. It’s been a headache. Glad toy hear you got it!
Could become a nation things could be just a bad round bad, positive or a number of the sensors that are bad brake sensor If the mowers engage it won’t start or if that sensor is bad it won’t start weak. Battery won’t start.
Jump across the starter with a screwdriver. If it starts it’s probably your switch. Had a hustler do that
Safety switch under the seat maybe
Not required for starting on said mower
Brake pedal lockout? PTO switch? Starter solenoid? Jump from the battery direct to the starter with the key on.
They used to come with pull strings when i was growing up .
Take a hammer to the sticky starter solves everything
Check your blade engagement switch! This has happened to my Hustler a few times..
It’s going to be one of the very many safety switches
If it's a zero turn it's probably the position sensor to detect that it's in park/neutral. I have to move my left lap bar slightly inboard to get it to start.
Solenoid is pulling down but the internal contacts that send power to starter is shot. Meter the power connection at starter for 12v when you turn the start switch.....bet there is NADA.. if so, run a piece of like 10awg or better wire from 12v battery terminal to starter. If starter is good, starter will start to spin starter immediately. If not starter is shot or is locked. If it's a bad interlock switch or a switch not set (ie, blades engaged, brake NOT set, operator not in seat) you won't hear anything.
Nope, I'm right there with ya. FUCK! 😂
Safety switch "Somewhere" of starter brushes. . I have problems with Aftermarket starter brushes last a year or sticking and then nothing on the key
Have you checked the air in the tires man?
My mower will do the same thing when the engine is at a top dead center spot where ots real stiff, i spin the flywheel to a loose spot and it allows the starter to spin it easier at the initial grab and turns right over. Have to do it almost every time. Batterys good its just to much initial force for the starter to start spinning the motor get it to a free spot and fires right up
Narrowed it down to the ignition switch or the solenoid, replacing both, really appreciate everyone who took the time to watch or comment 🫡
Not sure about that engine but on my regular riding mower I can spin the flywheel with a drill on the center nut and get it started.
Starter Solenoid. I’ve sold and repaired lawn equipment my whole life. Leave the key in the on position, Bridge the solenoid by laying a screw drive over the top 2 post. Your solenoid shouldn’t be attached to the starter. Standing behind the machine it’s on the left hand side under battery
Ping me if this doesn’t diagnose issue
See if you have power to the starter, take your ignition switch out and go from their. If not that, check your connections.
There is a wire that comes from the switch that runs through all the safety’s and returns to the switch. That then goes to the solenoid. Take a wire from the switch and run it directly to the solenoid. It dosen’t bypass the safety’s, it’s just like a check or something and one of the safety checks aren’t working properly. Next, clean all your grounds with sandpaper and reinstall. Bad ground will cause voltage drop throughout your safety switches and by the time it gets to the solenoid it’s not strong enough to crank. Just clicks. Hollah when you got it cranked!
Best I can tell it ended up being a grounding issue, less than 200 hours on it and the multimeter showed everything to be working, ended up replacing the switch, pto and solenoid to no avail, grabbed my hot and ground wires one last time and it finally fired up
@@LakesideShop yes sir! Have fought mine on my cub cadet for years and littrilly last week came to the conclusion the ground was the problem… glad you didn’t spend years throwing money at new safety switches and such. Went through 4-5 starter rebuilds. It’s been a headache. Glad toy hear you got it!
I’ve had 3 of those started go bad on me in 2 years just a heads up.
Is it in neutral, is the blades disengage
Bad switch?
It ain't got no gas in it
We keep that thing on us
Lololol
Love it
This happened to my cbr it was the headlight fuse. Couldn’t start the bike without it other than shorting the starter solenoid
damn safety switches, sit in the seat, ask me how I know...
Could become a nation things could be just a bad round bad, positive or a number of the sensors that are bad brake sensor If the mowers engage it won’t start or if that sensor is bad it won’t start weak. Battery won’t start.
Ain't got no gas in it!
Should probably check the rotary girders on the inline specs.
Jump the starter contacts, if that's no go play whakfuk on the starter itself.
The main word in a mechanics vocabulary
Corroded hot wire to the starter
interlock Circuit .. I would
check .
Grab your volt meter and get to tapping
Seat switch
You got gas in that thing?
Probably a bad switch
Blade engage safety switch.
Starter
Change the starter!!!!! 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
See wire not connected
Seen that too😂 should have pushed out of the way or put it back on the starter
Stater
Need a hammer
Blade engage plug might have vibrated loose
Ya need to refrag the jagenhauser!
Starter
Seat switch