I really like the simplicity and ingenuity of your set up. Ridgid makes a "FliptTop" portable work support that has a easy height adjustment and tilt. In addition, it folds up. It has a small surface but you can attach those rails on them. Probably less expensive than those Dewalt stands. I am sure you already know but Kreg makes the flip down stops that would fit those slots on your rails.
I think your crown stops and rails are a great idea. To lock in the alignment just lock your blade down at 0° and slide the sacrificial board using the blade as your glide. As for the 8' supports I think that is way over kill for just a support, utilize the built in sliders since they are adjustable and then you don't need to worry about level surfaces because everything is coming off the support stand
This is the best DIY crown stop solution I have seen. Good job. As far as the extensions, I think you should take advantage of the factory extensions and figure out a method of fastening the extruded aluminum to the factory end supports at the required elevation as that height will not change. This will minimize setup problems on uneven ground. Introducing secondary supports and fighting to make them even at different job sites may defeat one of the major benefits of a portable miter base all together... just my 2 cents.
Make the aluminum extrusions telescopic, maybe so it stores as a 4 foot section, but telescopes out into full length 8 foot section. Make on for each side of the chop saw.
Great concept going there. If you attach your 'outriggers' or the tables on each side directly to the single base you won't need to ever worry about being level on the ground. Don't use the second Dewalt stand. Don't need it. Let them hang free. Mount the outriggers directly to the stand the saw is on and have a screw adjustable rod attached to the longest part of the outrigger to the lowest part of a leg forming a triangle. The outriggers should be a super lite since they don't need to carry much weight. Just needs to be reasonably level-able. Just the ends of some trim needs support unless you want to make it stronger so you can make a coping jig on the end of an outrigger or something. Then a simple portable adjustable table could be added on to one of them to make a sturdier base.
As far as adjusting your supports ... you might consider a small scissor jack attached to the side pieces so they could be raised or lowered more easily.
I was a trim carpenter for 30 years. I finished out my career with a festool Kapex 120 and spent $ 210 for the crown stops. Honestly, yours is MUCH better. Good design.
For an old trim and framing carpenter like me, seeing those cordless sliding compound mitre saws makes you jealous of how lucky you young guys are...I remember the first electric miter saws ( for contractors) They weighed a ton and were terrible for lugging around and They blew house circuits a lot...I guess you guys will be jealous of the future trimmers using Quantum energy plasma 5 axis mitre boxes...:)...
@@davidburlason8466 :)...Yeah the work pool is stagnate and filled with debris...Watching some of these younger guys terrifies me...But; I haven't used a copping saw in years...I back cut it and grind it or shape it with The mitre box blade or table saw blade set below face...:)...A good copping saw is a sweet tool though!
Richard you can get a L shape aluminum extension with built-in stops and one end attaches to your compound miter table and at the other end it has an adjustable leg for the uneven Terrain you can adjust the leg up and down. Take a look at fastcap it's called Best Fence it's everything you wanted. Peace brother
Well having had a Dewalt mitre for many years now, feel like I Duh moment. I didn’t realise that was where the spanner was supposed to go! Little daft comments help so much! Thanks for all the great pointers and inspiration for ideas and projects.
Hey Richard. At 12:45 behind you on the left hand side of the smaller stand there is that weird looking thing attached to the stand, that is there so that you can move it to any place on the stand on use it as a locator for the mitre saw to be in the same spot every time. You can use that to keep the crown stop jig in the same place every time.
dude this state of the art crown stop no joke ive tried many thing and having something stretch all the way accross and having good mounting is the key to cutting crown in the nested position
My Dewalt stand came with a bracket that bolted onto the stand so you could locate the saw in the same place every time you set up. if you have one or can get one from Dewalt you could use that to index your crown stop. As Far as your stands you could take adjustable roller stands, remove the rollers and install your extrusions to them. They are quickly adjustable and easy to transport.
Use one of the small jack " to go up and down in your extensions use the jacks the come in your vehicle. This jacks most people hate using because are to small. They have a 3/4 nut "and you can set a socket and use your delwat impact driver to go up and down.
If you cut a lateral slit for the jig slot bolts, you can have 4 bolting points. An observation. Love the advice and experience you share. So appreciate.
Fix the brackets to the aluminum extrusion in the same manner that you did with the jig, and attach to two material rollers. Material rollers are smaller and lighter and easily adjust for height. Having two outside single points (vs a long rectangular stand) will give you ability to pivot the same way you do with the jig for dialing in on off terrain. You would also be able to quickly turn one of the supports perpendicular so that your work area could be set up straight or in a "L" shape or what ever suits your needs, given you leave proper play on the support which locks onto the mitre stand. Looking forward to your final setup.
I’ve gone to the Kreg Track Horse for my out rigger supports - allows for 6 different height adjustments on each leg to compensate for uneven ground and they are super versatile (use a pair for my custom in the field router lift/table top) / table saw extension - super sturdy (2200 lbs ea) and fast to set up compact to store
Bolt the t rails to the existing extension arms. They are easily removable with two wing nut style fasteners as well as adjustable. Then get yourself a couple woodpecker flip stops. Cheap and a very easy/fast set up time.
Hello, If you are uneven you will have to level in two planes. Something like a single point clamp in each plane that can be tightened to lock. This would lend itself well to your tripod idea. The mount could tilt back and forth on a pivot while the height could be adjusted with your crank. For myself I just set up infeed and outfeed tables. You could get complicated (do you weld aluminum?) and run one tube out your eight foot on each side with a saddle over your saw. Then use tube within a tube to straight leg each outboard end. A variety of tilting feet (think the jacks for a boat trailer tongue or a camper jack) could be attached to meet uneven ground. Sounds like a fun project for the home machinist in us. Take care. Doug
All you need is an adjustable leg on the outboard ends of the stock support. The inboard mount will already be flush with the saw like the crown stop bracket. A couple of pieces of ply with T slots and star knobs for adjustment and you're ready. Look at insider carpentry's video again for the outboard leg support.
For the extended table on the sides I would buy four more dewalt mounts for the saw stand and four more aluminum 2x4's with the slots for bolts. Use one mount near the saw and one at the end of the stand. Bolt two of the 2x4 studs together with a inch or so gap in between them. Use the spacers you used for the crown stops to level with saw top and make a board smaller but same idea as crown stop with bolts that slides down both rails just to use as a saw stop for repeated cuts. That way you can take them on and off just like crown stop. That would give you 8' on each side of saw that you can remove or install quickly and will fit in truck or van. Love the videos and the attention to detail. Ok, wrote first part before I finished video. You could use the same idea just widen the width between the two by fours and mount your board to them as wide as you want it to be. Then you eliminate the need to set up extra stands and level anything out. It would become one unit. If you use 3/4 material you only need to shim up 1/16th.
you could add a few stop blocks on the bottom side of the board that rest against the side of the saw, so when you put it back in place it just slots in
Expensive, but what about two more miter saw stands? Use the slots on the ends for the supports to tie the three together. Take off the supports from the extensions and push them into the adjacent stands to line everything up. Adjust for the uneven ground with shims.
I build houses for living by watching your videos I’m going to start trimming one of my home so if I don’t do a good job I’m going to blame you and hope you come and fixed right 😂😂🍻
I’d honestly take a look at modifying the extensions from the Paulk miter station and mixing that design with Insider Carpentry’s extensions. They’d hook into a fixed (flush with the saw) point where they hook on and they’d be adjusted for height on the ends. The adjustable legs on the extension fold up into the extension and transport right next to the saw setup.
You could use the square extension tube as bridge between DW- sawhorses, without the supports. I'd put perpendicular flat rollers on those DW saw clamps, with height adjust etc.
Richard, I am constantly impressed by your generosity in sharing tips and tricks to making your job easier. You are truly "one of the good guys. Hey didn't you have an extension unit a while back?
that set up is absolutely awesome. Crown is a bit 1990's in the uk now,. People are going for the minimalist look and dont even put it around the top of kitchen wall units anymore, but when i get a job that needs some i know what set up im using.
I love the problem solving you are going through. My advice is to keep it as simple as possible. Having all these separate parts and pieces could be bad. If you forget a piece or something breaks you'd be all washed up.
You could use the square tubing sections to attach another part of the aluminum extrusion on each side from other stands. Then you could brace those added sections from their outside edges at a diagonal to the bottoms of the stands feet. The braces would be precisely cut. That way the entire apparatus would still have four feet and always have a top edge in line. The idea is to sort of cantilever the added extensions.
You can use a regular V stand which is height adjustable with a 12 inch ball bearing roller cylinder that supports the work piece. I have 2 of these and use them on the in feed and out feed support when surface planning long material. I had to order online to get some descent ones.
A larger countersunk hole and some wing nuts would allow you to lay the trim flat but also allow for easy adjustment of crown stop without the need for a wrench. Just make it deep enough for the wing nut to be below the plane.
The t-track tubing was roughly 3/4" lower than the saw table without your spacers. Seems like you could rip a 8"-12" strip of 3/4" ply that would be 8' long and fasten it to the top of your track tubing. Then either use a cheap roller stand for height adjustment on the opposing end or make a simple sliding dove-tail leg on a hinge for flat storage. You would need a slot in one part of the leg and a hole in the other, bolt and one of those star knobs you like so much to set elevation. $15 in material per extension wing. With 8' in length you might need a single rib along the bottom of the 3/4" ply to eliminate sag.
Ive always found the roller stands to be very good for supporting the lengths of material that are to long for the stand to support. Plus since they have a big roller on top it doesnt scratch your material as you slide it back and fourth on your miter saw. Just a thought their portable and adjustable to allow for uneven surfaces.
I have the Festool Kapex with the UG stand , the crown stops, and the spoil board. It solves literally every problem you're speaking about, except long pieces of nested crown go unsupported at the far ends, so occasionally I have my helper hold the end up while I cut it. I know for you though, since you do so much crown, you probably need a huge capacity. The Kapex tops out at 6 5/8" for nested crown, and a measly 4 3/4" for vertical baseboard. That is the only downside to the saw and stand. Everything else is absolutely great. Add a vacuum and some upgrades and it'll top out at near $4k, but it is totally worth it. If you can make due with the smaller capacity, its a no-brainer buy.
You can buy free standing fully ajustable stands. That is what I use. Great job on the projection stop. I'll be glad to send you a picture of our stands. The legs are adjustable with a roller for the top.
Great Jig and idea. My issue is the saw, not sold on the battery DeWalt, Milwaukee Makita etc . I have x2 battery's says table saws, as soon start to loose power the cut is not accurate , cannot see how battery will beat power/mains. Good for some purposes but not all day cutting. May be one day it will work. But with mains you get full consistent power! Great videos.
You have probably found you solution already. I have been running through a mental design for a while now. I was thinking of reversing an irwin quick grip, modifying the pinch to receive perhaps a track tube from "Glen"
I like your idea with the side outrigger bolt that can adjust up and down for fine tuning. I think I will make a quick one with standard threaded rod but with a bolt or socket at the top for using a drill fast
Great video Richard! I don't installation much anymore for physical reasons, but I've done quite a bit of in days gone by, I always used poplar, but I found abnormality tolerated wasn't far the simplest to set up on uneven surfaces. I just used a couple of shims under the stand foot of it was off on another angle. The key was a good quality rolled stand though, the cheap ones I found the rolled and supports were always welded crooked...import crap. Andrew Love the plastic fascia board idea though.
Shorten the legs on the Dewalt stand. Build a simple scissor lift for the support brackets. More stable than a single threaded lift. You could attach it directly to the Dewalt bracket on the bottom then to the track piece on the top. Simple, light weight, and stable with the adjustment you need.
You could use all tread rod connection nuts(the long nuts) get some one to weld them to the quick connect bracket. Then run the bolt up from the bottom add one nut and a nylon lock nut then your aluminum brack and another nylon nut. Tighten the nylon lock nuts just enough but not tight enough that you can't turn the bolt. When want to level turn the bolt up or down then lock it down with the nut that floating in between the aluminum bracket and the quick connect bracket. This will give you all the adjustment for up and down and forward and backward.
You're thinking like me now! I'm always trying to improve the workability of my job site tools. I'm making a table now to attach to my DeWalt miter stand. I'm using the same saw brackets and a 24" x 48" piece of 1/2 birch plywood with aluminum channels screwed around the perimeter to stiffen the table and prevent things from rolling off. The table will extend perpendicular to the stand once mounted. I build a lot of decks and I cut my pickets from 8' 2x2 stock so I need a good place to stack the pickets while I'm cutting. On your work table idea, I don't think you want the part mounted to your miter stand to elevate. Depending on how much you raise it, it will interfere with the crown lengths being cut.
I never thought about using the zero clearance cuts as the alignment point for the cuts. I always spend so much time aligning the blade to my marks on the material. Bending over, lowering the blade at least twice to line up my marks.
If your space allows those small scissor jacks are quick up and down plus they don’t move with any vibrations. The fact they stay level as they raise or lower would be a benefit. Great content 👍
I love this crown stop jig, perfect for those who have a DeWalt stand. Richard, I think you are overthinking your miter saw extensions. I might be wrong but don't you have some Ridgid Flip Top supports? Any trim stock or crown molding further than say 6 ft from the saw blade left or right doesn't need to be dead nuts matching the saw table, trim usually twists well enough on its own accord. The only area where things need to be as accurate as possible is there on the saw table. I use the Flip Tops as extensions and if necessary shim the legs at ground level to get what I want.
Richard, I would try to make outside stands attach to the saw stand with the sliding tube you are thinking of eliminating. If the outside stands have that ability. Slide a piece of tubing threw both stands to attach them. That way there are less legs to throw off the leveling process.
You could get a PVC board, put 2 “L” brackets on the end at your crown support. Screw 2 “U” shape hangers to catch brackets then put adjustable leg at the end away from the saw. Do the same on both sides. Set hangers at a height that when you put the boards on no adjustment is required. The adjustment would be at the end with the leg.
have your 8ft platform with the stand clamp on one end to attach to the stand with the height fixed and on the other end the platform fits over a roller stand to adjust height to make level. you can have your stop block track system like you said on it
You need the outside stands with adjustable height legs. The logistics of getting that extrusion moving AND level is crazy. Look at the Festool Kapex stand extensions. Super simple and works perfectly. Just reverse engineer your stand to mimic the Festool stand.
Put adjustable bolts under t slot brackets instead of fixed bolts for up and down movements, you could also adjust the front to back angle that way aswel. Great videos mate cheers for good content.
Run a square tube from the end of your original Dewalt stop straight into the end of the smaller stand where it’s stop would go ( if they have them) and that should keep both stands at the same height. Just use the standard size tube they come with but longer run them deep for maximum support, and maybe on the far end of the small stand have a single adjustable leg at the bottom like some tables do and mount that in where the other stop would normally go (again if the smaller stand has them) standard legs can just stay folded up out of the way or in use if the ground is flat enough.
Look at your Dewalt stand from the front on the left side there is a silver thing 3 to 4 inches with a black screw. That is to put your saw back in the same place every time. Get a second one for your crown stop.
Two Rockwell Jawstand XP would work well to support your portable table with height adjustment. It’s sold on amazon. The non-XP version doesn’t have the fine height adjustment that you may need for your work.
My thought was going for leveling the tables. If you made a shoe (say, from wood) for each leg and then placed a threaded rod going through it vertically (with nuts or some such holding it at both ends of the hole), then with double nuts locked together at both ends of the rod you could quickly adjust the table foot's distance from ground by driving the rod to either direction as needed. So you'd need maybe four shoes like this for each table. Simple to make and not necessarily too difficult to fit in the cargo space with the rest of the tools either. Damn, this sounds so good i might need to make ones myself! :D
Check out the Rockwell jawstand. Has telescoping adjustment like your tripod. I've been doing almost the exact thing as you. Last time I was messing with it was about a year ago. I don't do trim full time so just have not had the time to refine and try these things out.
Check out this "DW7028 MITER SAW STAND EXTENSION SUPPORT". Instead of removing the extending square tubes, you attatch this to them to get your height adjustments.
Think about adjustable roller stands that can be adjusted up or down to accommodate an uneven surface. You could probably remove the roller and mount your extrusion on it.
Richard, Just thread the hole through your extrusion and it will raise and lower when your turn the knob. Very simple to make and easy to use. Just what you want and need. Just buy a tap & die set for $50.00/$100.00 and you can make threaded levelling feet for it as well. Aluminum is soft and easy to thread. Any questions just send me a message I'll be glad to help if needed .
I think if you add the best fence by fast cap or fabricate something similar you'll be good. Some suface area included for pulling tape measurements from is a must. Adjustable roller stands work fine too but they are annoying. You could make an L shelf that hinges off the main stand with butt hinges and use the adjustable part of a roller stand for support after removing the roller head.
Make the counterbore larger and use wingnuts. Also have you looked into FastCap’s best fence system? I’m pretty sure you can buy some of the components separately... may give you some of what you’re looking for re: micro adjust etc.
Regarding adjustment: In your video from yesterday Gary Adams wrote this: "hi just a suggestion if you put a couple of nuts between instead of spacer it becomes adjustable". Wouldn't this do the trick?
Put a "Jawstand" on each side. They make 2 types. One has micro adjustments. Heavy duty quality. Have the Jawhorse, love it. Its a beast and a carpenters best friend.
I would make use of the inbuilt extendable supports by cutting off the existing end and making an extension that slips over them that has its own part that is leveled to the rest of the saw
So what you need is either to go on each leg or front to back. so if you can hook up something like a small trailer that goes to your ball of the back your truck how the wheel on the bottom has a shaft going up with a rolling crank or you could have small CO2 system with compressed air with a bleeder system raises it up and bleeds it down up and down. When you run out of here you hook up your compressor and fill the tank up again something that is stationary that will either connect next to the legs of your table or switch the legs install those instead
Hey man try this for the ends/ uneven surfaces. Fast cap has a garbage disposal low profile jack that might works. Thanks keep up the good work God bless you
I like it a lot it seems like something I would use very much I do think that you should allow for the 360° of circumference on the stop means it would be a little bigger
For your center lock just do another recessed screw that fits into the center blade channel on the saw, that should give you center every time and also allow it to slide.
Its guys like you experimenting with new ideas that makes our lives easier ,,,,,,respect
The Rockwell JawStand RK9034 is an adjustable stand that will hold your TrackTube directly and it has a crank for fine height adjustment.
Necessity is the mother of invention.Thanks for the video.
I really like the simplicity and ingenuity of your set up. Ridgid makes a "FliptTop" portable work support that has a easy height adjustment and tilt. In addition, it folds up. It has a small surface but you can attach those rails on them. Probably less expensive than those Dewalt stands. I am sure you already know but Kreg makes the flip down stops that would fit those slots on your rails.
I think your crown stops and rails are a great idea. To lock in the alignment just lock your blade down at 0° and slide the sacrificial board using the blade as your glide. As for the 8' supports I think that is way over kill for just a support, utilize the built in sliders since they are adjustable and then you don't need to worry about level surfaces because everything is coming off the support stand
This is the best DIY crown stop solution I have seen. Good job. As far as the extensions, I think you should take advantage of the factory extensions and figure out a method of fastening the extruded aluminum to the factory end supports at the required elevation as that height will not change. This will minimize setup problems on uneven ground. Introducing secondary supports and fighting to make them even at different job sites may defeat one of the major benefits of a portable miter base all together... just my 2 cents.
Make the aluminum extrusions telescopic, maybe so it stores as a 4 foot section, but telescopes out into full length 8 foot section. Make on for each side of the chop saw.
inside carpenter has a very good system to increase the length of the wings plus a very awesome stop block system
Great concept going there.
If you attach your 'outriggers' or the tables on each side directly to the single base you won't need to ever worry about being level on the ground. Don't use the second Dewalt stand. Don't need it. Let them hang free. Mount the outriggers directly to the stand the saw is on and have a screw adjustable rod attached to the longest part of the outrigger to the lowest part of a leg forming a triangle. The outriggers should be a super lite since they don't need to carry much weight. Just needs to be reasonably level-able. Just the ends of some trim needs support unless you want to make it stronger so you can make a coping jig on the end of an outrigger or something. Then a simple portable adjustable table could be added on to one of them to make a sturdier base.
Very nicely done. It nice to see a young man take pride and happiness in his work like you do.good luck with the jig happy cutting semper fi marine
As far as adjusting your supports ... you might consider a small scissor jack attached to the side pieces so they could be raised or lowered more easily.
I was a trim carpenter for 30 years. I finished out my career with a festool Kapex 120 and spent $ 210 for the crown stops. Honestly, yours is MUCH better. Good design.
No its not
For an old trim and framing carpenter like me, seeing those cordless sliding compound mitre saws makes you jealous of how lucky you young guys are...I remember the first electric miter saws ( for contractors) They weighed a ton and were terrible for lugging around and They blew house circuits a lot...I guess you guys will be jealous of the future trimmers using Quantum energy plasma 5 axis mitre boxes...:)...
OK Boomer
Been doing trim for 30 yrs. hired a guy he had never seen a copping saw
@@davidburlason8466 :)...Yeah the work pool is stagnate and filled with debris...Watching some of these younger guys terrifies me...But; I haven't used a copping saw in years...I back cut it and grind it or shape it with The mitre box blade or table saw blade set below face...:)...A good copping saw is a sweet tool though!
@@godbluffvdgg I guess it is all about not tiring yourself out quicker fighting with those old tools that will have your hands cramping up..
Richard you can get a L shape aluminum extension with built-in stops and one end attaches to your compound miter table and at the other end it has an adjustable leg for the uneven Terrain you can adjust the leg up and down. Take a look at fastcap it's called Best Fence it's everything you wanted. Peace brother
Well having had a Dewalt mitre for many years now, feel like I Duh moment. I didn’t realise that was where the spanner was supposed to go! Little daft comments help so much! Thanks for all the great pointers and inspiration for ideas and projects.
Lock the blade (head) down like you would for transport as you index the crown stop. Should solve your problem with positioning
Why have i never thought of that? Thanks mate. Great tip.
Hey Richard. At 12:45 behind you on the left hand side of the smaller stand there is that weird looking thing attached to the stand, that is there so that you can move it to any place on the stand on use it as a locator for the mitre saw to be in the same spot every time. You can use that to keep the crown stop jig in the same place every time.
dude this state of the art crown stop no joke ive tried many thing and having something stretch all the way accross and having good mounting is the key to cutting crown in the nested position
My Dewalt stand came with a bracket that bolted onto the stand so you could locate the saw in the same place every time you set up. if you have one or can get one from Dewalt you could use that to index your crown stop. As Far as your stands you could take adjustable roller stands, remove the rollers and install your extrusions to them. They are quickly adjustable and easy to transport.
Use one of the small jack " to go up and down in your extensions use the jacks the come in your vehicle. This jacks most people hate using because are to small. They have a 3/4 nut "and you can set a socket and use your delwat impact driver to go up and down.
Great crown stop system! Thank you for sharing.
If you cut a lateral slit for the jig slot bolts, you can have 4 bolting points. An observation.
Love the advice and experience you share. So appreciate.
Im Ron , Im a carpenter also , you have the most amazing ways to accomplish everything , i like all your youtube info THANKS
Fix the brackets to the aluminum extrusion in the same manner that you did with the jig, and attach to two material rollers. Material rollers are smaller and lighter and easily adjust for height. Having two outside single points (vs a long rectangular stand) will give you ability to pivot the same way you do with the jig for dialing in on off terrain. You would also be able to quickly turn one of the supports perpendicular so that your work area could be set up straight or in a "L" shape or what ever suits your needs, given you leave proper play on the support which locks onto the mitre stand. Looking forward to your final setup.
I’ve gone to the Kreg Track Horse for my out rigger supports - allows for 6 different height adjustments on each leg to compensate for uneven ground and they are super versatile (use a pair for my custom in the field router lift/table top) / table saw extension - super sturdy (2200 lbs ea) and fast to set up compact to store
Bolt the t rails to the existing extension arms. They are easily removable with two wing nut style fasteners as well as adjustable. Then get yourself a couple woodpecker flip stops. Cheap and a very easy/fast set up time.
Hello, If you are uneven you will have to level in two planes. Something like a single point clamp in each plane that can be tightened to lock. This would lend itself well to your tripod idea. The mount could tilt back and forth on a pivot while the height could be adjusted with your crank. For myself I just set up infeed and outfeed tables. You could get complicated (do you weld aluminum?) and run one tube out your eight foot on each side with a saddle over your saw. Then use tube within a tube to straight leg each outboard end. A variety of tilting feet (think the jacks for a boat trailer tongue or a camper jack) could be attached to meet uneven ground. Sounds like a fun project for the home machinist in us. Take care. Doug
I use adjustable roller stands sold at Lowe’s, Home Depot. I have same problem with level surface at my place. They work wonders.
All you need is an adjustable leg on the outboard ends of the stock support. The inboard mount will already be flush with the saw like the crown stop bracket. A couple of pieces of ply with T slots and star knobs for adjustment and you're ready. Look at insider carpentry's video again for the outboard leg support.
For the extended table on the sides I would buy four more dewalt mounts for the saw stand and four more aluminum 2x4's with the slots for bolts. Use one mount near the saw and one at the end of the stand. Bolt two of the 2x4 studs together with a inch or so gap in between them. Use the spacers you used for the crown stops to level with saw top and make a board smaller but same idea as crown stop with bolts that slides down both rails just to use as a saw stop for repeated cuts. That way you can take them on and off just like crown stop. That would give you 8' on each side of saw that you can remove or install quickly and will fit in truck or van. Love the videos and the attention to detail. Ok, wrote first part before I finished video. You could use the same idea just widen the width between the two by fours and mount your board to them as wide as you want it to be. Then you eliminate the need to set up extra stands and level anything out. It would become one unit. If you use 3/4 material you only need to shim up 1/16th.
you could add a few stop blocks on the bottom side of the board that rest against the side of the saw, so when you put it back in place it just slots in
Expensive, but what about two more miter saw stands? Use the slots on the ends for the supports to tie the three together. Take off the supports from the extensions and push them into the adjacent stands to line everything up. Adjust for the uneven ground with shims.
I build houses for living by watching your videos I’m going to start trimming one of my home so if I don’t do a good job I’m going to blame you and hope you come and fixed right 😂😂🍻
Complaint
Cause
Conception
Construction
Application
Correction
Relaxation
Well done Richard! 😎
I’d honestly take a look at modifying the extensions from the Paulk miter station and mixing that design with Insider Carpentry’s extensions. They’d hook into a fixed (flush with the saw) point where they hook on and they’d be adjusted for height on the ends. The adjustable legs on the extension fold up into the extension and transport right next to the saw setup.
Hello Richard. Take a look at the Rockwell Jaw Stand XP 9034. Hopefully this helps. Thank you for all your videos!
You could use the square extension tube as bridge between DW- sawhorses, without the supports. I'd put perpendicular flat rollers on those DW saw clamps, with height adjust etc.
For your leveling device think about how a automotive scissor jack works. Maybe even use one from one of the minne cars. Philip, retired homebuilder.
Richard, I am constantly impressed by your generosity in sharing tips and tricks to making your job easier. You are truly "one of the good guys. Hey didn't you have an extension unit a while back?
Great idea with stop for crown i will copy that for myself 👍 i used to fix floor board directly to saw tabe as a stop....
Ya man supper cool lol I need to make one like that!!! No more screwing a board to the bench
that set up is absolutely awesome. Crown is a bit 1990's in the uk now,. People are going for the minimalist look and dont even put it around the top of kitchen wall units anymore, but when i get a job that needs some i know what set up im using.
o bez yeah in nz it's the same most new houses have square stop , but there are plenty of old houses with crown
I love the problem solving you are going through. My advice is to keep it as simple as possible. Having all these separate parts and pieces could be bad. If you forget a piece or something breaks you'd be all washed up.
You could use the square tubing sections to attach another part of the aluminum extrusion on each side from other stands. Then you could brace those added sections from their outside edges at a diagonal to the bottoms of the stands feet. The braces would be precisely cut. That way the entire apparatus would still have four feet and always have a top edge in line. The idea is to sort of cantilever the added extensions.
You can use a regular V stand which is height adjustable with a 12 inch ball bearing roller cylinder that supports
the work piece. I have 2 of these and use them on the in feed and out feed support when surface planning
long material. I had to order online to get some descent ones.
Good idea. I prefer cutting crown molding laying flat and move de bevel 33.9 and the angle 33.6. You can find those numbers marked on the chopsaw.
I would consider using the stand legs as an option for leveling. Maybe insert a screw of a sort that can be used to level.
A larger countersunk hole and some wing nuts would allow you to lay the trim flat but also allow for easy adjustment of crown stop without the need for a wrench. Just make it deep enough for the wing nut to be below the plane.
The t-track tubing was roughly 3/4" lower than the saw table without your spacers. Seems like you could rip a 8"-12" strip of 3/4" ply that would be 8' long and fasten it to the top of your track tubing. Then either use a cheap roller stand for height adjustment on the opposing end or make a simple sliding dove-tail leg on a hinge for flat storage. You would need a slot in one part of the leg and a hole in the other, bolt and one of those star knobs you like so much to set elevation. $15 in material per extension wing. With 8' in length you might need a single rib along the bottom of the 3/4" ply to eliminate sag.
I've been watching your videos for quite a while and just realized you were also in the DFW area, keep up the good work and good content!
I would say an adjustable roller stand would work just fine.
My thoughts exactly.
The problem is the dust ... roller stand are good but the fine saw dust from MDF kills it
cant install a track on those, thats what his looking for
Exactly use the roller there cheap and easy to use and very accurate
Ive always found the roller stands to be very good for supporting the lengths of material that are to long for the stand to support. Plus since they have a big roller on top it doesnt scratch your material as you slide it back and fourth on your miter saw. Just a thought their portable and adjustable to allow for uneven surfaces.
Great job!!!! Always trying to make yourself better and more proficient. BAMCIS
Very nice so far. Think ACME thread for adjustment. Probably two per end to give stability and front to back adjustment as well.
Used ridged flip top work supports they slide nice and easy to adjust and carry, better than rollers.
Gonna be a dope setup man! Props on asking for help!
I have the Festool Kapex with the UG stand , the crown stops, and the spoil board. It solves literally every problem you're speaking about, except long pieces of nested crown go unsupported at the far ends, so occasionally I have my helper hold the end up while I cut it.
I know for you though, since you do so much crown, you probably need a huge capacity. The Kapex tops out at 6 5/8" for nested crown, and a measly 4 3/4" for vertical baseboard. That is the only downside to the saw and stand. Everything else is absolutely great. Add a vacuum and some upgrades and it'll top out at near $4k, but it is totally worth it. If you can make due with the smaller capacity, its a no-brainer buy.
You can buy free standing fully ajustable stands. That is what I use. Great job on the projection stop. I'll be glad to send you a picture of our stands. The legs are adjustable with a roller for the top.
Great Jig and idea. My issue is the saw, not sold on the battery DeWalt, Milwaukee Makita etc . I have x2 battery's says table saws, as soon start to loose power the cut is not accurate , cannot see how battery will beat power/mains. Good for some purposes but not all day cutting. May be one day it will work. But with mains you get full consistent power! Great videos.
You have probably found you solution already. I have been running through a mental design for a while now. I was thinking of reversing an irwin quick grip, modifying the pinch to receive perhaps a track tube from "Glen"
I like your idea with the side outrigger bolt that can adjust up and down for fine tuning. I think I will make a quick one with standard threaded rod but with a bolt or socket at the top for using a drill fast
Agree with the tripod leg idea. I was thinking surveying, but photography or whatever...an adjustable leg to get you close then a way to fine tune.
I recommend the Insider Carpenter's wings. His set up is brilliant
Great video Richard! I don't installation much anymore for physical reasons, but I've done quite a bit of in days gone by, I always used poplar, but I found abnormality tolerated wasn't far the simplest to set up on uneven surfaces. I just used a couple of shims under the stand foot of it was off on another angle. The key was a good quality rolled stand though, the cheap ones I found the rolled and supports were always welded crooked...import crap. Andrew Love the plastic fascia board idea though.
Way to up your game! That's real clean work.
Shorten the legs on the Dewalt stand.
Build a simple scissor lift for the support brackets. More stable than a single threaded lift.
You could attach it directly to the Dewalt bracket on the bottom then to the track piece on the top. Simple, light weight, and stable with the adjustment you need.
This has given me a TON of ideas! Thanks Richard!!
You could use all tread rod connection nuts(the long nuts) get some one to weld them to the quick connect bracket. Then run the bolt up from the bottom add one nut and a nylon lock nut then your aluminum brack and another nylon nut. Tighten the nylon lock nuts just enough but not tight enough that you can't turn the bolt.
When want to level turn the bolt up or down then lock it down with the nut that floating in between the aluminum bracket and the quick connect bracket. This will give you all the adjustment for up and down and forward and backward.
You're thinking like me now! I'm always trying to improve the workability of my job site tools. I'm making a table now to attach to my DeWalt miter stand. I'm using the same saw brackets and a 24" x 48" piece of 1/2 birch plywood with aluminum channels screwed around the perimeter to stiffen the table and prevent things from rolling off. The table will extend perpendicular to the stand once mounted. I build a lot of decks and I cut my pickets from 8' 2x2 stock so I need a good place to stack the pickets while I'm cutting. On your work table idea, I don't think you want the part mounted to your miter stand to elevate. Depending on how much you raise it, it will interfere with the crown lengths being cut.
I never thought about using the zero clearance cuts as the alignment point for the cuts. I always spend so much time aligning the blade to my marks on the material. Bending over, lowering the blade at least twice to line up my marks.
If your space allows those small scissor jacks are quick up and down plus they don’t move with any vibrations.
The fact they stay level as they raise or lower would be a benefit. Great content 👍
I love this crown stop jig, perfect for those who have a DeWalt stand. Richard, I think you are overthinking your miter saw extensions. I might be wrong but don't you have some Ridgid Flip Top supports? Any trim stock or crown molding further than say 6 ft from the saw blade left or right doesn't need to be dead nuts matching the saw table, trim usually twists well enough on its own accord. The only area where things need to be as accurate as possible is there on the saw table. I use the Flip Tops as extensions and if necessary shim the legs at ground level to get what I want.
Richard, I would try to make outside stands attach to the saw stand with the sliding tube you are thinking of eliminating. If the outside stands have that ability. Slide a piece of tubing threw both stands to attach them. That way there are less legs to throw off the leveling process.
Your videos are great !
You could get a PVC board, put 2 “L” brackets on the end at your crown support. Screw 2 “U” shape hangers to catch brackets then put adjustable leg at the end away from the saw. Do the same on both sides. Set hangers at a height that when you put the boards on no adjustment is required. The adjustment would be at the end with the leg.
have your 8ft platform with the stand clamp on one end to attach to the stand with the height fixed and on the other end the platform fits over a roller stand to adjust height to make level. you can have your stop block track system like you said on it
You need the outside stands with adjustable height legs. The logistics of getting that extrusion moving AND level is crazy. Look at the Festool Kapex stand extensions. Super simple and works perfectly. Just reverse engineer your stand to mimic the Festool stand.
Adjustable feet on all of your supports will work, I have them on my Bosch stand
Put adjustable bolts under t slot brackets instead of fixed bolts for up and down movements, you could also adjust the front to back angle that way aswel. Great videos mate cheers for good content.
Run a square tube from the end of your original Dewalt stop straight into the end of the smaller stand where it’s stop would go ( if they have them) and that should keep both stands at the same height. Just use the standard size tube they come with but longer run them deep for maximum support, and maybe on the far end of the small stand have a single adjustable leg at the bottom like some tables do and mount that in where the other stop would normally go (again if the smaller stand has them) standard legs can just stay folded up out of the way or in use if the ground is flat enough.
Look at your Dewalt stand from the front on the left side there is a silver thing 3 to 4 inches with a black screw. That is to put your saw back in the same place every time. Get a second one for your crown stop.
Two Rockwell Jawstand XP would work well to support your portable table with height adjustment. It’s sold on amazon. The non-XP version doesn’t have the fine height adjustment that you may need for your work.
Nicely done, I can see how this going to save you time and frustration. Well executed sir!
My thought was going for leveling the tables.
If you made a shoe (say, from wood) for each leg and then placed a threaded rod going through it vertically (with nuts or some such holding it at both ends of the hole), then with double nuts locked together at both ends of the rod you could quickly adjust the table foot's distance from ground by driving the rod to either direction as needed.
So you'd need maybe four shoes like this for each table. Simple to make and not necessarily too difficult to fit in the cargo space with the rest of the tools either. Damn, this sounds so good i might need to make ones myself! :D
Check out the Rockwell jawstand. Has telescoping adjustment like your tripod. I've been doing almost the exact thing as you. Last time I was messing with it was about a year ago. I don't do trim full time so just have not had the time to refine and try these things out.
I think it's a heck of a jig ,, love it
Check out this "DW7028
MITER SAW STAND EXTENSION SUPPORT". Instead of removing the extending square tubes, you attatch this to them to get your height adjustments.
Using the saws blade wrench to tighten your fence was a great idea !
Think about adjustable roller stands that can be adjusted up or down to accommodate an uneven surface. You could probably remove the roller and mount your extrusion on it.
Richard, Just thread the hole through your extrusion and it will raise and lower when your turn the knob. Very simple to make and easy to use. Just what you want and need. Just buy a tap & die set for $50.00/$100.00 and you can make threaded levelling feet for it as well. Aluminum is soft and easy to thread. Any questions just send me a message I'll be glad to help if needed .
I used low profile wing nuts on mine.
Thanks for the inspiration!
I think if you add the best fence by fast cap or fabricate something similar you'll be good. Some suface area included for pulling tape measurements from is a must. Adjustable roller stands work fine too but they are annoying. You could make an L shelf that hinges off the main stand with butt hinges and use the adjustable part of a roller stand for support after removing the roller head.
Make the counterbore larger and use wingnuts. Also have you looked into FastCap’s best fence system? I’m pretty sure you can buy some of the components separately... may give you some of what you’re looking for re: micro adjust etc.
Regarding adjustment: In your video from yesterday Gary Adams wrote this: "hi just a suggestion if you put a couple of nuts between instead of spacer it becomes adjustable".
Wouldn't this do the trick?
Put a "Jawstand" on each side. They make 2 types. One has micro adjustments. Heavy duty quality. Have the Jawhorse, love it. Its a beast and a carpenters best friend.
I would make use of the inbuilt extendable supports by cutting off the existing end and making an extension that slips over them that has its own part that is leveled to the rest of the saw
Multiple stands would be too time consuming to level to each other. To get a long level bed set up fast it has to be all mounted from the saw stand
So what you need is either to go on each leg or front to back. so if you can hook up something like a small trailer that goes to your ball of the back your truck how the wheel on the bottom has a shaft going up with a rolling crank or you could have small CO2 system with compressed air with a bleeder system raises it up and bleeds it down up and down. When you run out of here you hook up your compressor and fill the tank up again something that is stationary that will either connect next to the legs of your table or switch the legs install those instead
Hey man try this for the ends/ uneven surfaces. Fast cap has a garbage disposal low profile jack that might works. Thanks keep up the good work God bless you
I like it a lot it seems like something I would use very much I do think that you should allow for the 360° of circumference on the stop means it would be a little bigger
Excellent idea!!!
For your center lock just do another recessed screw that fits into the center blade channel on the saw, that should give you center every time and also allow it to slide.
Badass crown stop brother!