Improving the Hornby 08 Shunter at Chadwick Model Railway | 4.
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Hornby 08 Shunter with a Stay Alive Capacitor at Chadwick Model railway.
Patreon Link. www.patreon.co...
Donation Link. paypal.me/Chad...
www.amazon.co....
Affiliate Links.
Hand Held Vacuum Cleaner amzn.to/3dmLekg
Digital Spirit Level amzn.to/394f1LT
Countersink Drill Combo amzn.to/2Z8R6Fj
Brother ID Sleeve Printer amzn.to/3l7xmKL
Rotacraft Screwdriver amzn.to/3esNgxB
Swiftnut amzn.to/2TZ4GJ0
Gaugemaster Track Tester amzn.to/3eAbKp0
Plug-in Terminal Blocks amzn.to/2zjyA3L
12 way Terminal Block amzn.to/39IZNd5
Bosch Hot Glue Gun amzn.to/2VWtK6X
Ferrule Crimping Tool amzn.to/2TpJ4FU
8 way Terminal Block amzn.to/2Q7NxeJ
WERA Screwdriver set amzn.to/2ZX0VJu
Magnetic Clamps amzn.to/2Nczc0y
Makita Drill amzn.to/2ZSJaLr
Cordless Dremel amzn.to/3nGb2JE
Sculptamold amzn.to/2Wh5RGr
Polystyrene Cutter goo.gl/GpWgWp
Iwata Airbrush goo.gl/P1ABXd
Compressor amzn.to/2MKItc1
Com Art Paints amzn.to/2KFuDKn
Laser level amzn.to/2KRA5Y9
Soldering Iron amzn.to/2XPkKhM
Helping Hand amzn.to/2qOt0Oy
Miniature Camera goo.gl/UzYWp6
Optical Visor goo.gl/ljSzBi
Magnifier Table Lamp goo.gl/seg8Dj
Fire Extinguisher amzn.to/34FEBCN
First Aid Kit amzn.to/2AhaWSk
Video Gear
Video Camera (4K) goo.gl/Q36cAY
Microphone goo.gl/RqY6MR
Dear Charlie, Having watched your laitest video this morning (7 July 2024) and seeing this, your videos have been consistently very good. Although a prefer the soun of the modern modern speaker sa you dont hear your breath while talking. It seems like you actually enjoy making these videos. Keep up the good work.
Many thanks, BGFR. I’m so pleased that you enjoy my channel. Regards, Charlie.
Good Job Charlie.
Thanks Stanley, regards Charlie
Oh! What a difference having sound makes! That's an eye opener for this newbie! I'm sold on it. Thanks Charlie. BobUk
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Bob.
What an amazing difference.
Yes, the sound difference was staggering. Regards, Charlie.
Especially useful to see how to open up the cab from below to get the stay-alive in. I now feel better equipped to that on my own 08. I will also have to consider whether to replace the speaker. I might just try to put a sound chamber on the back. Thank you.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Stuart.
Expertly handled and explained Charlie
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting John.
Very interesting video. I have to say that I was wincing as you used the Dremel! "MIND YOUR FINGERS!!"
A fair point Matthew.
Wow Charlie your a brave man.Like John Carvil I wouldn't even attempt that,great stuff
Thanks Robert, clearly the task wasn’t without risks but once you start, there’s no turning back.
Good luck with your layout.
Regards Charlie
Superb upgrade. Excellent work.
The only minor critique I would offer is that I think with pulling the body on and off so many times my OCD has spotted a slight crease has developed in that front crank rod.
Hi OPHY, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. I’ll check the crank rod at the weekend.
Regards Charlie
Just found your channel. I too use digitrax & Railroad &Co. So glad to find another modeller on you tube making videos and tutorials using the same. Looking forward to watching your channel. You present things well, clear narration and explanations.
Hi 955, I’m so pleased that you enjoy my videos.
Good luck with your layout too.
Charlie What a faff to fit a stay alive to a sound loc. Much better with a Zimo MX644D. They come with Stay alive fitted for the same price. Great channel I model O gauge but a lot of your content is still relevant. Thanks Phil
Sadly Phil, they weren’t available when I did that video. Regards Charlie
I admire your confidence in your ability to cannibalize your body shell an solder skills ' .a very nice video. Very interesting.
Thanks Ken I’m so pleased that you found it interesting mate. Regards Charlie
I agree that it has improved its running and its sound and has improved it. My experience has been that whenever I take the top off a locomotive, a wire comes adrift when putting it back, which means taking the top off again, which discourages me from starting. Whereas diesel sounds are pretty good, I have yet to hear convincing sound on steam engines making it not worth doing. Thank you for another good demonstration.
Hi Don, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting.
Sadly, sound is so subjective and some folks hear what they want to hear!
Good luck with your layout.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Have to agree there. I worked for 15 years with BR and sadly that does not sound like an 08 as I remember them. Great work with the mods though and the new sound file does sound better than the original.
In America those cross head screws are known as a Phillips head screw.
We used to call them that too.
Well done Charlie👍🏻
Thanks mate.
Not what I thought and hoped when I saw the title. I was thinking this would be about upgrading older Hornby 08s to have the external sideframes.
Sorry to disappoint Zelda.
Most useful . I’m glad to see another advocate of stay alives . They really make such a huge difference to the enjoyment of running sound locos . It’s surprising how few people use them though !
Hi there (I don’t have your name), I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Yes, stay-alives are great and I’m sure that one day will become a standard fit. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie It's 5 years later since this was released. That was some overhaul rebuilding engine project. I was taking concern about the wire stripping & engineers cab, second is the placement of the shell back on top hoping no structure interfering with the cab. Wow Charlie you reworked this project! My other the instructions in German & no English translation 😱 Then i said uh oh. But you handled this professionally. As a Thomas & His Friends fan I noticed your engine resembles Mavis minus the piston rods. I didn't say Diesel, Mavis has class Diesel is sleazy! 😅😅 But seriously This came through sound system improvement & all, great job. I Enjoyed watching.
Harold (C.N.R.R.)
What an interesting comment Harold, and I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it mate. Regards Charlie
Again charlie gr8 video ,, now this is my opinion but to me the sound of the first shunter sounded better to me but in saying that i have not heard the real shunter in real life to compare the two so to me the stay alive just by itself is awesome and would stop the sound and engine from cutting out but with having to do all the mucking around to fit the sugar cubes but again its all about the modeller and there needs to sound great to there own ear ,, we have 44 class alco's over here in oz and sound very similar to your alco diesels and i know the sound of them so again its all about the modeller again. Keep up the good work and great video's.
Cheers from John in Australia.
Great comment John, our real Class 08 shunters sound very tinny.
"your alco diesels"
Not sure what you mean -- British Rail never had any Alco diesels.
Thank you, sir. Because you've answered my question, I have subscribed. I'll be viewing ALL your DCC videos.
Much appreciated.
Interesting film, and what an improvement, The stay Alive makes a huge difference though it all required an awful lot of chopping around with the body. Very impressed with the result.
Glad that you enjoyed it Stuart.
Hi folks, it is now possible to buy some very small precision soldering irons, about half the size or better than the one Charlie had to struggle with when this video was made. They would be ideal for this fiddly job. BobUK.
Please post a link Bob.
Nice tutorial... Looks like you bent the driver side coupling rod though.
You’re paying too much attention Jeff. 😜
I’ve just got my first Hornby dcc set (Somerset belle) for an amazing £104.95
A class 08 is one of the next things I want to buy
Good luck with your layout building IDK.
Theres only one drawback to using a dremel to cut track charlie, its the cutting disc, unless its oversized you have to cut the track at an angle, i use a pair of stanley tinsnips, it leaves a nice smooth edge. Adding more weight to the 08's is a good idea too, i had the hornby 08 it was the BR logo one, tbh it was one of those rare instances where hornby made a better model than bachmann. damn those solder pads are gigantic compared to my zimo micro sound decoder ones lol, i use an iron with a 1mm fine tip. should have added a cab light to this while you were there mar mate.
I do use a large cutting disc from
Squirestools.com.
Charlie,
Which model were you working on mate?? The model I worked on was R2417 and I needed to get the cab off to install custom directional lights and Loco Crew, so I decided to praise the cab off as you indicated and it wasn't pretty..😁 The cab was glued in the front where you praised the body and three places at the back. I shall try to fix the damage else I might have to get a new body shell from Peter's Spares or eBay.. I guess the main thing to remember is that all models may not be the same after all though it is the same manufacturer.
Cheers, keep up the good work and have those videos coming..👍
At last I've found it!
I believe that it's Horby's R2591.
Sorry about your damage, Regards Charlie
Ok, you should have left the original speaker cables on the base CB so in future it will be easier to remove the shell for maintenance as you wont have to worry about disconnecting the speaker cables by accident (ripping them off). The other thing is I'm pretty sure you have the speaker box's themselves around the wrong way as the actual speaker cone is facing back onto the motor bearing mounting instead of at the grill. But other wise not bad, might want to look into a finer tip soldering iron though something like a Duratech model TS-1610 10W unit, it has a variable temp setting and one nice fine tip.
Thanks for your comments but rest assured the speakers are in the right way around (hopefully, yes surely I didn’t get that wrong).
@@ChadwickModelRailway well normally any writing/print on a speaker is on the BACK of the magnet and therefore the other side has to be the cone. I can see print facing the grill, no biggy tho, still sound way way better than stock.
Great informative video, big improvement on your 0-6-0 switcher , kind of mod`s I like doing........Brian
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Brian.
Interesting 🤔 i have a few DC only class 08's, i havent had my layout set up for around 25 years, and im wanting to set it back up, make a complete loft layout, as it was all in the garage previously, but i needed the garage for storage of vehicles and tools, so, back to the point, im thinking this time of converting from DC only to DCC, and im going to have to do something similar to fit the DCC chip to the DC locomotives, given me some inspiration, i have never taken any of my loco's apart yet, besides ones that have broken, and i have taken the motors out completely to convert them to dummy loco's for double heading, so yeah, its gonna be interesting to say the least
Clearly a big project Russell, good luck.
Impressive conversion and well worth the trouble......well done. Have you ever added lights to a dcc loco?
No, have you?
Its a shame that we have to carry out these mods as the manufacturers fit DCC sound why not fit stay alive at the same time, its such a great improvement.
Ian, that’s so true but they will just blame it on the price point.
Brilliant
That’s very kind of you, Thomas. Regards, Charlie
6️⃣3️⃣3️⃣🚂😎👍. Nice trains. Great video 🚂❤️
Thanks Richard.
Still watching and learning Charlie. Great job done on that. I’m a little sceptical on the importance retailers place on “stayalive” as a conceptual idea. Yes, there’s a very good reason for it but there is a lot of confusion surrounding it. Capacitors, bridge rectifiers, “super-caps”, solder pads, etc all serve to confuse the issue and, I believe, puts many customers off or, at least, frightens them from making any further progress in the hobby, in relation to DCC (sound especially). It seems that the overcomplication can be simplified by showing that, in its simplest form, all that’s required is a bridge rectifier and capacitor (common components which are ten a penny). The two wires of the made up circuit would need only be connected to the motor contacts and, in essence, the “stayalive” could be placed anywhere . I think I’ll be having a go at this and, with the use of a shunters truck, permanently connected to the Loco (classes 03/04/05/08 etc for example), could be a much easier conversion.
Just a few thoughts on the issue. Best wishes, Bob
Hi Bob,
I’m so pleased that you found it interesting.
I find that “stay alives” are very useful in 0-4-0 and 0-6-0 locos.
Furthermore, I agree that manufacturers do play on our insecurities.
Good luck with your layout.
Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway When I did my 08, (which I am now going to review after watching this again), I placed a small slice of 6mm (I think) plastic tube over the motor spindle bearing just so the speaker didn’t foul it.
Not a lot of room in these is there Charlie?! I’m doing a Bachmann one now after making a pigs ear of the HORNBY one........things just didn’t go well! I’m thinking of modifying and attaching a shunters wagon. Having just bought a couple of “non-descript” (on offer from Liverpool), it might be a good idea. When I get chance - video to follow! Lovely model, already sound fitted.....an investment opportunity, perhaps? Best wishes, Bob
I’m so glad that you enjoyed the video. This one was a real challenge. Good luck with yours and keep me posted. Regards Charlie
LOOKING FOWARD TO SMALLER STAY ALIVE
You and me both Ron.
Well I don't know, I spent many hours shunting with an 08 and that doesn't sound like one and if that was ment to be the whistle at the end that was wrong too, the 08 should sound like a class 73 or a Hastings unit.
Perhaps you’re right but it certainly is a real recoding. Maybe it’s lost in the video sound.
There was two types fitted, some were horns and the others were a whistle type. Had both types at Salisbury when shunting there !
@@garypollard9736 Thanks for the info Gary, this is the sort of gem I love to find when reading comments.
Great video and I was wondering how the cab came off, so that solved the problem for me! Why two speakers, did you try it with just one before on say another model and thought it wasn't great or what?
No it was followed advice from Legosounndmanbiffo.
Great and very informative video to watch, though I'd probably have used a DCC Concepts stay alive as it looks to be much smaller and maybe you wouldn't have had to cut away the interior cab detail or at least not so much, also would it have been a good idea to have constructed a small plasticard box around the stay alive and paint it black/interior cab colour? It was a good point to use the smaller version of the decoder and the sugar cube speakers are much better than the original, though why did you not use the original speaker wiring? Lastly I'd check out Coastal DCC for your decoders as they're competitive on price.
Hi Neill,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. The task was a real challenge made much harder by not using a miniature sound decoder. I don’t think that DVC Concepts produced stay-slices back then.
But we all learn over time.
Regards Charlie
As far as I can remember, I've been buying DCC Concepts Zen decoders for around two years - and they all came with a stay alive, which works well in a Class 71 over two insulfrog points installed back to back. As for sound decoders, I've just started using them and Coastal DCC at least have got quite a range now, both standard and smaller sizes.
No an easy job for the novice , but totally appreciate the improvement.
Thanks but it was so difficult.
Hiya Charlie another great video, thank you. Having watched a few other channels may I ask could you do a series of videos on maintaining the locos and different types of motors. There seems to be some concern as to the best way and having watched you work on projects like this I'm sure any films you decided to do would be well received.
Would you fit a 'Stay Alive' to every loco even if it's not yet needed?
Thanks Steve...
Hi Steve, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. I will do a loco maintenance video at some stage but not just yet.
I fit a StayAlive’s as at last resort, and not unless the loco gives me real pain.
Regards Charlie
All good, thank you kind sir...
A beautiful MOD of your 08 diesel, though all the Demeling and cutting away the excess material was making me cringe. Great sound and motion control of her Charlie from its original boxed state. An impressive bit of work done to your Gonk, but did you really need two sugar cubes fitted than just one because of the limited space inside?
Yes I belive two spekers at half power are better than one running flat out.
@@ChadwickModelRailway What Ohms were these speakers classified as and would the next size up single cube not have done it cheaper than the two you installed. I'm just curious if I had to do something like this myself in later days.
Sorry John but that was done a few years ago and there must be much better options available now.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Well yes your right, it would be now.
Hi Charlie, what kind of couplings do you use on your locos?
Hi Alex, I try to use Kadee couplings whenever I can.
Excellent
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
hello just subscribed to your excellent channel , may i ask what video equipment you use , as i would like to form my own channel , which involves making scale rc aircraft , , keep up the great work
Hi Sean are use a fairly old Sony camcorder currently which is now out of production. If I were you I would start with a mobile phone and then see how the channel takes off prior to spending any large amount of money. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway thankyou for the info , mate
Hello Charlie,
I’m very sorry if I’ve already asked you this question before but, I’ve noticed you are using digitrax DCC; but what or who’s track and points do you use, or have you changed your original track for something better.
Yours truly
ross
Hi Ross, I’m still using Peco Code 100. I do occasionally try new track in my videos but for the benefit of the channel.
Was just watching one of your videos where you visited Frome with a little red polaroid cam, then Bill Gates decided rather rudely to do an automatic update and shut my PC down. Delightful.
Anyway I was typing you a message when that happened to say my Sister lives in Longleat \o/
And just out of curiosity what controller do you use?
Please don't say the fat controller :)
Hi FG,
Bill Gates is a git!
Digitrax is my weapon of choice.
A little clunky but a joy to use once you’re used to it .
Hallo Charlie , just seen this video and I have a question , I am using Roco and Liiput narro gauge 1:87 . I have a DCC box with a Roco mouce and I have a Lokomotive ready to fit in a decoder and a decoder . But I also have about 7 lokomotives witch have to be rebuild . That was a long intro , question is , can I use both on my layout without having problems ? Greetings Bert.
Hi Bert, if they are both DCC designed items they should work but please keep in mind I have that never used them.
Perhaps your local supplier can give you better advice.
Thank you Charlie , I will do that . Regards
Charlie, just noticed a track cleaning wagon in the background around 2 mins what type is it and would you recommend?
I'm undecided mate. It's expensive and I really haven't had a chance to use it lately.
Chadwick Model Railway no probs, just bought myself a Sharge unit which looks similar to the one in shot after a disastrous experience with the motorised Dapol cleaner. Will post a vid once I’ve unboxed it, cheers 👍
Excellent videos. Have you done any on servicing locos and remagnetizing the magnets.
Hi John, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
No I haven’t done a servicing video but I may well do once I have loco problems.
Couldn't you have just drilled a hole big enough to put the wires though and the stay alive in the cab. Would that have been a possibility?
Hi Shane,
I had no idea what I was doing.
I just did what seemed easier at the time.
08 locomotives reminds me of Diesel from Thomas lol
That’s what he’s based on GS.
After having watched this through to the, an excellent how-to!
I'm glad you like it. The points are all electro-frogs.
SWEETA!!!! WOW really nice ,, works a hole lot better, ,,, SWEETA!!! Thanks for sharing & subscribing ,,, from Tom B.
You’re welcome.
Did you have any issues with the wires rubbing the motor when under pressure from the body?
I must confess that I have never taken the body shell back off again.
@@ChadwickModelRailway We found that if you had a sleeve on the chip the body wouldn't close and we also had issues where the chip wires would rub on the fly wheel causing a rubbing sound, we resolved this by wrapping black tape around the wires :)
Hi Charlie what driver figures do you use ?
These ones were Dapol I think.
how come the shunter d3963 became d3105 or did i miss something ?
Yes there was a comparison.
Regards Charlie
I cant believe hornby havent polarity marked the speaker cables, if 2 speakers are connected out of phase they will sound terrible
It’s almost unbelievable.
Regards Charlie
The thing is 2 trains running side by side will cancel each others sound out if the phase isn't correct, hornby are a bunch of muppets. Going N gauge forces me away from this joker company.
Speaker cables with unmarked polarity is pretty standard in my experience, it's only important when a second speaker is used.
The only instance I've come across where the polarity is defined is on locos from MTH and the speaker wires are the same colours (white & yellow) as the ones they use for motors. You wouldn't want to mix those two together ! - Dennis
I was just wondering how do you get the brake sound to work because I have the same loco and the brakes don't make a sound
The brake sound was part of the sound file.
If it's a Hornby TTS then there should be an "F" button (either F4 or F12) to push for the Brake Squeal.
If it's an ESU Loksound then the brakes sound should come on just as the loco is about to stop.
Was this done over insulfrog points?
No Bruce, they were all electrofrog.
Shocking isn’t it?
All my points are Insulfrog and I fitted a "Stay Alive" to my Class 08 and it works perfectly.
Like andybyrne50 I think it is an excellent video. I have a question. I have done a fair bit of soldering, especially before locos came DCC ready but I would like to know what wattage is the iron you use for such delicate work ?
Hi Michael, I used a 50 watt iron with a variable output. I used on full. Regards Charlie
Many thanks Charlie. I have been using 15 watt because a long time ago when DCC first came out I ruined a decoder and the chap in the shop said it was because I had used too much heat too close to the board. I shall up the wattage. Thanks.
I have different soldering irons for different tasks. Be very careful when soldering circuit boards. It’s really a case of using heat for the shortest possible time. Regards Charlie
Thanks for that Charlie.
Well done this "not so easy and straight forward" job ! Great result from your work too !
I have this Hornby Class 08 shunter for 13, 14 years and it was their first batch of very well detailed 08's.
Of course it has always been DC Analog but also DCC ready with an 8-pin socket. Sound was not an option back then.
A few months ago I decided to buy a Legomanbiffo Micro Decoder from ESU from DC Kits in Leeds without speaker.
My friend and train doctor Tony has installed everything in the cab where there was room only for one speaker. Hence it is not too loud however I am quite pleased with the result.
It only seems to sound a bit different from yours but that might be my imagination. Cheers, Jan
ruclips.net/video/xltDBN4S1JA/видео.html
I’m so pleased that you found the video useful Jan. Good luck with yours, regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thank You Charlie !
grootsan Just watched your video and the subject 08 sounds exactly like the 08s in BR service. Keep up the good work.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Your 08 in this video doesn't sound like a 08 at all. Maybe if you used a Paul Chetter sound file then you would have an authentic sounding 08.
I’m sure that you’re right.
However, please remember that Sound file must be six years old.
Regards, Charlie
Dont know if there is much acceleration sound with the new chip
Perhaps but it wasn’t it always a low reving engine?
ps. The 08 you start out with isn’t the one you finish with; did you convert more than one??
Hi Bobby,
No I used a friends loco for the later comparison.
Regards Charlie.
Did you paint the red part yellow or is it a different shunter 6:22sec? thanks
Well spotted Gavin. At that part of the video I needed another for the comparison. Regards Charlie
Charlie, what a find as a relative newcomer. Everything one needs to know to get going. A question for you. It's very difficult to find a good era 5 Class 08 shunter and those I have seen advertised have 8 pin chips whereas your conversion seems to be on a 21 pin chip. Can the sound conversion be done on either?... Roger
Hi Roger, the Hornby shunter is number R2903XS and is 21 pin equiped. I do hope this helps. Regards Charlie
If you're using ESU decoders the plug (8 pin or 21 pin) doesn't make any difference as the "Stay Alive" wires are soldered directly on to the decoder (that's the tricky bit).
What kind of DCC Controller do you use on this video?
It was a while ago but I believe it was my Digitrax.
Amazing.
Thanks Philip.
So did the original round speaker just pull out!?
No, I replaced the speaker along with the sound chip. They come apart quite easily.
What type of soldering iron did you use
Hi Tom, I just used an ordinary Maplins iron with a small tip. I have looked for an electronics type but I've yet to find one.
Thank you for your prompt reply
6️⃣0️⃣3️⃣. Not 633
It’s beyond me!
When wiring dual speakers keep each wire going to the corresponding terminal on the other speaker. Do not cross the wiring over. This is VERY important. If the wiring is crossed the speakers will be opearing 180° out of phase - one driver going in whilst the other is coming our. The result will be muffled sound. It's a well know problem in the world of hifi speakers. BobUK.
Thanks Bob.
Most of your problems come from poorly laid track, that loco is rocking around like a ship on a swell.
Not quite Paul. There is a board joint straight down the centre and the short radius points are dreadful.
stay alive from ..?
ESU.
www.esu.eu/en/products/accessories/powerpacks/
9
Thanks Marcel
Thougt it was my internet as it goes through 3 insulated things and a banister
Hi Adam,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
Regards Charlie
No thank you, I would have bought a new transformer.
That was a great video - clear and instructive. I have no need to improve a Hornby 08 in OO scale since I model Danish railways in HO scale. But clearly, your good work would transfer across to my "problem" locos quite easily. ESU is also my preferred brand in decoders. I can read German but much prefer English. In recent years, ESU has made what looks like quite a successful push into the US market. As far as I can see, all relevant manuals are now available in English. I know your video is a couple of years old, so you may have seen that yourself in the meantime.
www.esu.eu/en/downloads/instruction-manuals/accessories/
Hi Hans,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Regards Charlie