Renumbering Locos at Chadwick Model Railway | 88.
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- Renumbering Locos at Chadwick Model Railway was a challenge using water slide transfers or decals as some say.
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Hi Charlie, your a pure delight! am sitting in my local Hospital having my chemo for eight hours and playing catch up on your channel, you just lift my spirits with your approach and so much light relief also with this surreal world which we find ourselves in! So glad you’re increased your output of videos, disasters & all, keep them coming Eddie🤓
It's heartwarming comments such as yours Edward, that make it worthwhile.
tomorrows my last chemo for prostate cancer, ive won the war tho, theres hope always
@@wykedinsanity Went through that myself, good results for over 2 years. Best of luck! And Charlie, I totally enjoy your videos!
"I'm a lot more stupid than you originally thought", That gave me a laugh, Thanks 😀
That video, was real edge of your seat stuff! Regards Charlie
I have to say, when that first decal was going on I was getting very nervous as I was waiting to start hearing a lot of bleeped out expletives, but your perseverance paid off.
I have been successful in the past using only the cocktail stick with no chemicals to gently scratch away numbers.
I’ve also had disasters, mainly having decals sink to the bottom of the water bowl, but even if these have torn I’ve managed to salvage them. What helps with this is Micro Sol as it will soften the edges where the tears have occurred, thereby reducing somewhat the obvious signs of the damage.
Micro Sol is also invaluable when applying decals to uneven surfaces (such as when applying them over panel join and rivet detail). Good luck with any future renumbering projects you’ve got coming up.
Thanks Joshua, sound advice.
This should be of interest to me. I recently purchased a West Yorkshire flat front Bristol RE from a retailer. Tonight, Charlie, it's going to be R1368, RAX 13G in National Welsh livery. So hopefully the video will teach me how to change her.
Several members of the bus modelling fraternity print their own decals. A bus modeller tells me that nail varnish remover will remove decals.
Good luck Tim, you might need it!
Regards Charlie
The patience of a saint! Well done Charlie. I tried T Cut and I found it worked well on some Intercity Swallow coaches (Lima) but I really botched up removing decals from a BR Blue Lima Class 55, so it could be that the base colour could be factor - to be honest I don't know. I don't like using alcohol because I found it to be a paint remover more than it was a decal remover. But this was a great video. Thanks again.
Thanks Alfie, I’m so pleased that you found my stressful video interesting. Regards, Charlie.
One thing I love about your videos you show when things go awry and that I think helps all of us feel more able to tackle things without expecting perfect results the first time.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Richard.
Tipping a small amount of T Cut onto "document board" before use draws some of the solvent off, and makes it a little coarser, and hence a little quicker to use, something we discovered/were shown as recruits, in the days when we had lots of brasses to polish.. Small transfers, mix up your preferred solution, water + whatever, and create a drop (meniscus) in a saucer, or on a sheet of glass, and push the transfer complete with backing into the solution, check to see if transgfer isreleased from its carrier, if yes, soak up solution with blotting paper, (good luck finding it these days), pick up with tweezers place into position and slide off.
Great comment mate, many thanks, regards Charlie
From what I have learned about IPA. It is way too aggressive on the paints to be considered for renumbering project like these. But T-Cut works best as it doesn't seem to be as aggressive on the paint and only focuses on the numbers. Great video there and I have just recently numbered a Class 60 in O gauge. Loved every minute of it.
Thanks mate, I’m so pleased that you found it interesting. However, it was a painful experience! Regards Charlie.
About the only thing I remember from putting together my $1 airplane models in the 50's (yes, I still remember that far back) was that the way to see what's on the paper is to hold it - dry - over a bright light; Risky in the days of incandescent lamps, but easier with today's LED's. I'd mark he general edge with a pencil, and then drive on, sometimes successfully.
I find so many of the YT railroaders tedious as they never seem to make mistakes, or learn anything i the process - guess they were born experienced. Thanks foe being a human being with a sense of humor and a realistic sense of values.
Thanks Jack, I’m so pleased that you enjoy the channel. Stay safe mate,
Regards Charlie
Speaking of practicing, my sister picked up a big box of old train stuff at a yard sale. Tyco, old Lifelike, the old toy stuff. Missing couplers and wheels, you know, junk. BUT I gave them to a young "engineer in training" to use them with the admonition to not try to repair and run them on his layout, that he would spend more doing that than just buying some good quality cars. I told him to use them to learn to decal, and learn to weather with these. When he really had them messed up, soak off the pain with what you Brits call "IPA" (Isopropyl Alcohol - 90%) and try again. I gave him RUclips links to weathering, and suggested he use cheap craft acrylics. I told him to expect to mess up a lot before he started getting good at it, but isn't that true of nearly everything we do? Same with decals. Dullcoat... great stuff! If you do nothing else on a loco or car, putting a coat of Dullcoat to tone down the toylike shine is a good first step to weathering. It hides the edges of the decals, and is a good sealer over all after you weather. Be sure to mask off the windows.
Great comment, many thanks.
Omgosh, I was holding my breath almost the whole time, but it turned out ok! I must have missed it but I was wondering why you were changing the number anyway! You are a charm Charlie! I hate to say I love your mistakes or accidents but I love your light hearted response to them. Life is too short and messy to get upset, right? I love ALL your videos. Thanks for sharing them.
I’m so sorry to stress you out Judy. I need to change the numbers because otherwise we would have the same numbered locomotives. Regards Charlie
Oh wow. That reminded me of when I was a kid attempting to put decals on a kit of a 'Sea King Helicopter'. Watching you there had my heart in my mouth. The thing I like most of all about your channel is that you're not afraid to show the 'disasters' as well as your 'achievements'. I so look forward to your videos, even more so now that we are all in 'Lock-down'. Brilliant show, Charlie. Keep Safe.
What a heartwarming comment Sid. Thanks, regards Charlie
Great great fun with this episode Charlie. Enjoyed it thoroughly.
Thanks Scott, I'm so pleased that you found it interesting. Regards Charlie
Sorry about your woes Charlie, glad it did not get you down. What I've sometimes had success with is using some tweezers to scratch away at the lettering, then using T cut or very very very fine wet and dry (wet) to smooth out the surface, then after the transfers have dried, using aerosol Dullcote or more recently Tamiya Matt spray to blend them with the rest of the loco. Cheers!
Yes this is no simple task for any of us RM.
Hey Charlie! When working decals i found using some Microscale Micro-Set and Micro-Sol to work really well. I tend to dip the decal in water for a few seconds and then let it sit for 1 minute on a paper towel. After the time I use a paper towel to dab the decal dry, then with a paintbrush dipped in the Micro-Set solution I do a little wash over the decal. I try to get the decal to stick to the brush to transfer to the model. After I've transferred the decal, I apply more Micro-Set solution and adjust the decal to where I want. After I let the decal completely dry (1-2hrs) I apply the Micro-Sol solvent. I usually do 2 coats of Micro-Sol and let dry, then do a final coast of clear coat. This should hopefully make renumbering locomotives a bit easier in the future. Thanks for the videos! -Andy (Philadelphia, PA)
Great tips Andy. I will buy the Microscale products as you and others have suggested.
Hello Charlie,just a tip for you when drilling any multiple holes,,,,,keep trigger depressed all the time till compleate......keep up the good work and wait for your next vid...
A good tip Larry thanks, regards Charlie
Hello Charles.
Just a little suggestion on removing numbers.
These can be removed by ultra fine abrasives, my preference was 2000 grit, you can go finer.
I used a Velcro backed wet and dry, then made a small tool from plastic rod with a small flat pad of plastic card 4x4mm bonded at an angle.
The pad had a small 4x4mm square of paint sprayers flatting block hook Velcro glued to it.
What I had created was a miniature flatting block with an extension pole, and small squares of 2000 grit wet and dry.
As the lettering on loco’s will be raised above the base colour, with a dab of water you can very lightly drag (don’t push) the wet and dry over the number using minimal pressure.
What you’d be trying to achieve is microscopically riding on the surface of the numbers, as they will be a few microns above the level of the base paint.
Because I made the monumental mistake of giving up the hobby a number of years ago, and I no longer have the tools, I’m unable to make a short video.
An interesting comment PJ. I’ll have to get some finer wet and dry.
What a brilliant recovery Charly. Well done.
Some decals are a plastic and the underneath paint mostly acrylic. So, unless you know the base coat, ie acrylic, spirit, solvent based your a little bit stuffed. The T cut was a great choice.
Unless your using solvent based coatings, then electrical insulation tape i used for less under leakage and sharper edge lines. Ive put new decals on but no longer swap new for old decals. Too much for me now. 😂 Love your videos. Very intuitive. Thank you.
Thanks Mel. I’ll bet that your heart was in your mouth. Regards Charlie
Yes. But you recovered the decal well, (with big sigh of relief).
Hey Charlie, what I do when removing cab numbers is use Micro-sol. You brush it over the numbers and let it evaporate, you then could either use a pencil eraser and rub them off or burnish scotch tape to the numbers only and they come off with relative ease.
I’d love for you to shoot a video doing that FDP
Form D has the answer! Charlie, you were really struggling with this project. I've had stunning luck using Micro-sol and cellophane (Scotch) tape. Soak the old numbers, etc., with the Micro-sol, and let it sit until it dries. Then burnish down just enough of the clear tape to cover the numbers. Pull the tape straight up. It may take a few attempts at it, but the tape will eventually pull all the painted numbers off. It's almost like magic! Keep making these videos, Charlie! You're my weekly inspiration!
And. . . ! You are absolutely correct - they are "just decals". The important part is the locomotive or car; the decals are cheap in comparison! Thanks, again!
A piece of sellotape on top will remove them instantly
Wow, I never knew this. I've used MicroSol a lot for putting transfers ON, but not the reverse. I'm going to give it a go, thanks!
I've replaced decals but just blue transfers over the numbers with new white numbers on top. Job done!
Well done, there’s always an alternative method.
Hi Charlie. This morning I revisited this very useful video as I’ve bought a Hornby Sentinel which I want to relivery from Port of Bristol Authority to Dorman Long (Teesside Steelworks). Advice from the model shop is to use one or more coats of primer before a few top coats to hide the lettering. However, I’ll try your T-Cut method too.
Now I’m no professional rivet counter as my layout mixes Western and North Eastern Regions over a lengthy unprototypical era. But as Chadwick is in theory more specific in location and time to 1973, I’m happy to see your three Class 50s (my favourite Diesel Electric locos), the first six of which I understand didn’t transfer to the Western until early 1974. Good for you!
I’m so pleased that you enjoy the channel. Good luck with your project.
Regards Charlie
For those more like myself there is a re numbering service at some model shops. Others I have seen simply scratch the decal off and use the tweezers to hold the decal in place (McKinley). The humbrol stuff comes highly recommended by all. there are also brass plate kits theyt may cover old numbers. Being brave with your models seems to be the challenge here.
Yes George it was a challenge. Fortunately sometime ago and hopefully my latest efforts are better. Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie for yet another great video. I was saying to myself "get the tweezers, get the tweezers". I thought when the decal rolled up that was the end of that one but you recovered it, awesome.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Warnz
Absolutely smashing, as ever. This one was a bit more of a white knuckle ride but everyone got home safely. In just a little over 44 minutes you've explained what it's taken me years to learn, but trial and many errors.
I have yet to renumber a Heljan model so there was a great lesson learned there for me.
I invariably use T-cut and, as you explained, you get a glossy patch where you've removed the previous number. This glossy patch is perfect for applying new decals but can look a bit odd when you've finished the job. So, I mask off a big area around the old number so that only the number is visible. Very close to the numbers. That way, the only glossy bit will be covered by the new number and a small margin is not so visible. Also, the large area of masking is useful to protect any grilles or vent. If you get T-cut in the grilles, it's a pain in the bum to get out.
I always use water to soak the decals and I apply Microsol to the body. I soak in water so that if I have any issues like D400 curling itself into a ball, I can float it in the water to flatten or flood water onto the body for the same reason.
You can't always get a large area of backing paper to cut with the decal so they aren't always so easy to handle with tweezers. So, when the decals are ready for removal from the backing, I slide the whole thing out of the water (with the point of a scalpel) onto the rim of an old bowl. I then slide the decal off the backing and onto the flat blade of the scalpel, with a cocktail stick. I then lay the scalpel next to where the decal will be applied and slide the decal off, lengthways to avoid crumpling. Slide off with a cocktail stick. I think it's more likely to crumple if you slide it sideways.
Once in the final position, or for final adjustment, I put a cotton but to the side of the decal to soak up most of the fluid (water and microsol). Final adjust, then dab dry with a cotton bud. I then apply a quick coat of Microsol and let it dry on its own.
It works for me, most of the time.
You did ask.
Thanks again,
Bob
Thanks Bob, what a great comment, many thanks Charlie
Likewise..... Saved me all that text..... 😎
@@chriswalker2858 It's knowing when to stop that is my problem. Godda love that Charlie. The hobby is meant to be fun. He certainly encourages that.
Bob
Good discribtion from de video and experians from youself.
Excellent. There is something quite satisfying in changing the numbers on your locomotive or cars. It kind of makes them special and uniquely yours. It’s also satisfying to sit here having lunch watching someone else do all the work before heading down to the basement to tackle my own challenges. Thank you, Joe
Great comment, many thanks Joe.
Hi Charlie. I use the tweezers to hold the decals in the fluid, then test with a craft knife or scalpel to see if they are moving on the backing paper. I then use the same to slide off the transfer rather than a brush. Most of the time I scrape of the old numbers with a craft knife. If you were going from old numbers to TOPS you do not need to remove them. As BR used to paint over them. Something I found handy when my out of date trainspotting book had a lot of the locos still with old numbers in. I just had to find the painted over number! But you can't paint over the TOPS numbers if you are going back to the old of course!
I did have a coach mess up. I put the first class stripes and numbers on one side in the wrong places, so that on one side the first class seats were in the right place and the other side they were in the second class section! The two sides of the coach I was able to detach from the chassis, hence why I got it wrong!
One of the decal makers will make a full set of transfers for the loco of your choice, including the shed codes for the era you want.
Thanks Graham, great comment.
That looked very hard and tedious Charlie , if I can avoid any of that I'll be chuffed . Well done
I think it’s a simple case of practice makes perfect. However, I just need to practice!
Much respect to you and your channel sir, I just found it and had a good chuckle at how you show the way things really go in creating a layout and not an edited perfect every time clip, All the best to you
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Lorne.
Charlie I hope you will forgive me, but I have to say I found this video somewhat amusing, I will however give you top marks for persistence. I don`t know if you have ever heard of the '3 foot rule', but it works like this. Put a loco on your layout stand back 3 feet and if there are any slight imperfections you can almost guarantee that they will be very difficult to notice, if at all, and when the loco is in motion you will definitely not see them. As you English love to say "crack on " and keep up the good work. In these trouble times those of us who have model railway layouts are certainly blessed as it prevents us from going stir crazy while we are 'self isolating' It is also the perfect venue for keeping in touch with fellow modelers Stay safe. Cheers Greg
Sadly I learned the hard way this time Greg but as long as folks enjoyed it.
Many thanks Charlie for another really entertaining post. I always look forward to your latest address to the nation! I've recently started modelling in O gauge and have found that using Dacalfix has the advantage causing the decal to follow the contours of the model. For example on wooden bodied wagons the decal follows the cracks between the planks which, especially when weathered, really adds to the realism of the model.
Thanks Seahourse, I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it.
😉 Thanks for convincing me not to ever try removing factory print-ons or adding decals. We need a better solution from the industry that works for people with ten thumbs - like me. And thanks also for continuing to upload!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Frank.
Always love your videos Charlie. Had to admit I was sat on the edge of the sofa, toes curling shout "Nooooo! Don't do it!!!" at a number of points in this! Haha. Keep up the good work!
It''s such fun and I'm so pleased that you found it interesting Alan.
Its not as easy as it looks but I've achieved pretty good results in the past using a fibreglass pencil with no solution to remove the factory applied numbers. You still get a shiny patch but, as you said, that's easily covered with weathering. Keep them coming Charlie, I love the "just give it a go" attitude.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Steve.
Regards Charlie
Not a dull moment from you Charlie. A great and informative video. I will be undergoing renumbering and re-livery of some locomotives myself in the near future so I can always pick up the odd tip or technique. Hope your keeping well and all the best, Clint
Thanks Clint, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
hi charlie, charlie here i just want to thank you for all your videos they are brilliant and me and my grandad find them perect as they are very informative and its made our lives so much easier. keep it up!
What a heartwarming comment.
Charlie, to say I await every Friday with baited breath is an understatement! Pure joy, with a little bit of drama.... I might have screwed the ball of transfer up and wondered how I went wrong but your perseverance has provided me with the will to have a go.. on a more serious note, I’m thinking of starting a fund to send your Heljan model to TMC. Thanks for the video and stay safe.
Hi Vic, sadly I learned the hard way this time
Hi Charlie, great video. I've finally started building my own layout. Baseboard complete, so onto track planning... Thanks for all the videos so far. They've helped me make a strong start. Looking forward to many more 🙂
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed Edward
Fantastic video Charlie! I was laughing so much as ive done the same as you! Good job you are not an N gauge modeller! 😅
The trick is Robert, learning by other peoples mistakes, not your own! Regards, Charlie
Another great video Charlie. I have never cocked up with replacing decals, mainly because I have never attempted it. Kinda makes sense! 🤣🤣 Keep up the good work. Pete
Hi Pete, I'm pleased that you found it interesting. I slow time I can finish them off and hopefully get better! Some hope.
Love that class 33 iv got an original loco from the 80s in a box on the top of the bedroom cabinet! My dads set left when he passed never set it up in 15 years now! But that intercity was my own first my dad gave me I loved it and this brings bad good memories seeing it again!
Time to set them up again?
Great video Charlie all this info is great to learn from I personally do not have a model railway as yet but have had friends that have I hope to have one one day and with this info it is so great and gives me confidence to start one
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed Adam
Excellent video again Charlie! What a steep learning curve, it's like weeks or months of experience compressed in a 45 min video.
The locos look very nice after all the hassle. Thanks a lot!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it TM
Great video. I've ordered some t-cut and renumbering a class hornby class 87, because a few years back hornby produced King Arthur and then released their new class 87 as King Arthur as well. 🤔 It will be interesting because it is Intercity Swallow livery so the number has to be removed off a white background. Now that is a test for the t-cut not to produce any staining. I also have to remove nameplate as well.
A tip for decals, I always drain the excess fluid off from a corner and then role my finger, with the paper, over the decal. Less chance of moving it for me.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it and thanks for the tip
Charlie what are you doing to me!! I found myself holding my breath when you were putting on the decals, the patient's you display is awesome, well done mate your much braver than me. Take care Eddy xx
You think that you had it rough!
Hi Charlie , enjoyed the video, not sure I’ll ever need to re number a loco but it was fun watching you have a go at it ... thanks
It was exhausting Jim.
Chadwick Model Railway exhausting maybe but it looked like you had fun ..
Love diesels. Started as a child and getting scared stiff with them roaring through stations. Love your tutorials.
Thanks Ralph, I’m so pleased that you enjoy my channel. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, like it. Been down that road and often given up. Found that nail varnish removing pads are very effective. One has to be patient and stop as soon as result appears to be achieved. Neutralise surface ASAP. Pads are alcohol based and are to remove varnish, so slow and gentle.
Works for me and usually leaves a clean finish. Would suggest trying on a redundant model to establish correct approach. If it shows a problem, stop and do not attempt using on a good loco.
Really enjoy your videos.
p.s. NO I don't wear nail varnish, but I know a lady who does.
Great advice YY. I need some discarded loco bodies on which to practice. Regards Charlie
I always use a shallow container for soaking decals...even a saucer will do the trick. I also use Micro Sol to remove and then Microsol again to soften the new decal. I have just recently painted and lined my DJH Britannia class using Fox transfers. The first time the decal seemed to fly off in seconds catching me by surprise. Release times can be very short!
Thanks Craig, I'll try the Micro products next time.
Hi Charlie, great video, a refreshing change to see re numbering done in a 'live setting...I'm a modern image modeller and re number/weather locomotives on a regular basis. The best way to remove most TOPS numbers is indeed T cut, definitely mask around the number you wish to remove, you found the way to do it in the end...that is T cut the middle area then use a cocktail stick to remove the ends, its always the middle that disappears first, the new transfers need a gloss base to adhere too, any tampo printing needs to be removed slowly and no pressure or hard rubbing...regarding transfers, the best method is warm water with a drop of washing up liquid in a receptacle, decal fix is only a decal softening agent so I wouldn't use it on model locomotives, so the way to go is leave transfer in for 20 to 30 seconds..wet the area you want to put the transfer, place the transfer near where you want it to go and then slide into place using your trusty cocktail stick..then dab away access water with kitchen roll...unfortunately sometimes Fox transfers not only curl up as you found out, but can suffer with 'silvering' once applied, but weathering does cover this...for more easier transfers without the 'silvering' can I recommend Railtech transfers, they can supply a full set of loco TOPS numbers for as little 2.95 inc postage...keep up the great work, I was wincing watching you fight with that decal, but very impressed when you rescued it...regards, John
It was clearly a struggle John, but we got there in the end.
@@ChadwickModelRailway you did indeed, your patience with that number did you credit and I've been there with some Fox transfers, so I know your struggle well...
Charlie, I can honestly say I've never messed up any loco re- numbering ever. Never had the bottle to even attempt it in the first place!! Well done, bit of perseverance and you got there! Take care now, Terry
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Terry.
Excellent. I have an old class 50, in large logo, which I will be renumbering 50039 IMPLACABLE, as this is my 50 of choice. I have numerous failures with decals, not just railways. I am of the firm belief, if you don't make errors, you never learn, and that is so very true. It's absolutely refreshing to know that everyone has disasters, rather than hide them, wear them as a badge, because you know not what to do next time.
I’m so pleased that you share my pain Aaron. Regards Charlie
Thanks for your realism!
My pleasure Robert.
My rule of thumb with T cut, is use plenty of it. The ‘drier’ it is, the more heat will build up, and ‘burn’ the plastic. I look at it as, the abrasive properties to remove the decal, and the liquid to lubricate. Other option is original Jif.
Also, I use toilet paper to ‘blot’ the decal once it’s in position. The TP absorbs the water instantly, helping to dry it instantly and reduces the chance of thick or rougher paper moving the decal before the water goes. Again, just my preference 👍🏼
Great. tips guys, many thanks
Thank you Charlie, you have made my day. Your videos are brilliant and love your style. I haven’t done any transfers for over 30 years, but am now tempted to give it a go. Strangely, I too have a couple of 50’s the same, all be it in Revised Large Logo. Thanks again and stage safe 👍
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it mate.
Hi Charlie I was holding my breath while you applied the D400 decal good recovery. I must say as well you have the cleanest loco wheels I have seen for a long time mate.
Cheers Steve
Thanks Steve. I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it
I have not renumbered Heljan, but for renumbering genreally I use Brasso and stop rubbing in an area as soon as the numbers are off. The reason that the no. 7 on your class 33 was apparently more reluctant was because the way that you were rubbing was covering the middle of the number much more than the ends.
For varnishing once you have finished, you need to spray the varnish (after masking everything that does not need to be varnished), either with an airbrush or (as I use, since I do not have an airbrush) an aerosol can. This will get a much more even finish of varnish that will not cause an area to look out of place compared to the surrounding.
Also, I tend to prefer to use Railtec transfers where I can, as the backing film on these tends to be less visible than other transfers that I have tried.
Thanks for your veiws James
Well done I think that you have done a very fine job on not just your locos but your layout as well .I can draw some wonderful insperation from you
Paul, it's comments such as yours that make it worthwhile.
Splendid stuff. One thing I found with decals was that only blotting part of the decal stuck it down, but left enough fluid that could be worked back under to set it properly. Floating in setting (or softening) solution gives rather 6 degrees of potential movement, so, reducing those to, say, two seems to help. Foley (medical needle point) tweezers are worth what it takes to cadge or kumshaw as many pairs as you can.
Great tip, thanks mate.
When changing the identities of the buses [removing local authority crests and/or fleet names and the running numbers before applying new ones] bought for my model tramway, I used Meths and a duster. "Yule bee pleas two no" it's no better than the IPA. Yet another great video!
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed my pain Peter.
Charlie, very entertaining video. Years ago I tried to renumber a freight car, and it did not go very well. Fortunately, here in the US, we can buy locomotives with different numbers, so there is no chance I will ruin a $298.00 sound loco by renumbering it. Thanks for sharing, Sherrie.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Sherrie . I did find it a struggle initially as you can tell. Regards Charlie
Another enjoyable video Charlie. The amount of times I've chased a transfer round the body shell! Upside down, round and round, back to front! I was cracking up at that part! We've all done it 😆
I cursed and laughed all the way through that video shoot
I love your self deprecating charm Charlie . Makes these videos a bit different , but always informative . Great stuff. Looks like T Cut is the way to go . 1968 to 1974 a period that’s not very well represented , but it’s a period that in the beginning you can have black 5s , so the tail end of steam , blue and green locos and dmus , maroon and blue grey coaches . Great . Thanks for posting these videos particularly keeping us going during this period of lock down . By the way love HSTs too !
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Russel.
Hello Charlie. I stumbled across you RUclips vids a while back & the more I watch them, the more I remember of my youth, let me explain. It was 57-8 years ago, in my mid-teens that I had some 'rolling stock', I think I had a 0-4-0 shunter, a 4-6-4? (I don't remember) with a coal carrier on the back, a few random carriages & coal trucks sufficient track for 2 loops, a slip siding in the centre and a controller. I 'played' for a few years but since I could not afford to buy more & was without a permanent location, it all got put away. In the late 70's I was married, had a new job & had forgotten all about the 'railway' up in the loft until, that is I began chatting with one of the chaps I was then working with who admitted to having an extensive collection but was always on the lookout for more. 'Ding' went a bell in my head & to cut this a bit shorter, I ended up giving it all to him! He may have paid me 20 quid or so. The reason for reaching out is that you have peaked my interest again. I will be clear here, I make model aircraft at 1/48th scale and I build themes I'm currently working on 3 themed collections to fit into dioramas, they are: The aircraft from the first Top-Gun movie, a scene from Star Wars at the rebel base from The Force Awakens and, - the one that may peak your interest, - a scene from my imagination based upon a combination of 'Mosquito Squadron', 633 Squadron and something I imagined from an old movie whereby Mosquitos were used to effect a rescue of some high-ranking military chap from a chateau in France being used as a prisoner of war camp. The theme of my imaginary story/diorama would involve: a chateau, a German train circa 1940's, a Mosquito, a couple of Crusader Tanks in support & a bunch of figures. Firstly, what do you think of this? Secondly would you be prepared to contribute to the story plus some track and a train at the appropriate scale? Thanks for some really interesting vids, Charlie, keep them coming.
Hi Richard, what an interesting comment.
Please tackle just one project at a time and I will gladly give you some track etc.
Please check out "Luke Towan" on RUclips. He is a true master of smaller dioramas.
His advice is truley priceless.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Hi Charlie, thanks for your reply. I'm at an early stage at the moment, just collecting the parts, the Mosquito is one that I have pulled out of storage that I built Hmmm perhaps 20-30 years back and am having to do some repairs to (I might get another), the characters are available as kits from both Tamiya & Airfix, I figured on using a tank or 2 as support for the 'Operation' - I have 2 Crusaders currently under construction & a Churchill on order - I'm not sure which I will use yet. I am subscribed to Luke Towan's offerings, he is where I got the inspiration for the build. Thanks for your offer of some track but having done a small amount of research I'm not sure if the scale tracks & stock are available - perhaps you could advise further on this? If you were to wish to donate some track how may I give my address to you alone? All the best, Richard
I use a glass fibre pencil (£2.50 from eBay) to take off the numbers, so far no issues. Fox transfers can be tricky, especially on a fine font, as they have very little surround to support them (which looks better). On my WW1 renumbering the ROD letters were very thin. Just a matter of going carefully and accepting that there will be 'acceptable tactical losses' lol. Then I sprayed the whole loco with matt varnish (covered windows with tape) as that seals it and blends it all in so no joins or difference in finish. Cheers, Laurie
Some good advice Laurie, regards Charlie.
Nightmare job! You are a better man than I Gunga Din. I would never attempt this, or I shouldn't have. I still have my Hornby Dublo Deltic which is living proof of the folly of letting a nine year old loose with a few pots of Humbrol! I do approve of number changing though. For sentimental reasons I had my green with wasp stripes class 08 renumbered to D4162. It was allocated to Exeter St Davids on 14th May 1962 and I was there on the day! Also my family bought me a Grange Class for my birthday last year and had it changed to 6847 Tidmarsh (my surname) Grange. I am waffling now so will stop. Keep up the good work!
Great backstory TJ
Who knew that a video of renumbering a few locos could be quite so gripping! I've hated decals since I was a youngster making Airfix kits. The one time I did renumber a loco, I used Letraset (on top of a dreadful repaint, made even worse by me not having an airbrush at the time, and having to use a brush). Do they still make Letraset. I used to love going to the local graphic design/artists supplies shops and looking at the thousands of sheets of Letraset they had, and the catalogue which had even more!
Andrew Stevenson I have the same happy memories of Letraset browsing. Don’t know is still produced!
I certainly learned a hard lesson this time Andrew.
I had a similar nightmare on one of my steam locos, I plan to weather around the number plates to hide the awful blending work i will have to do to cover the accidentally removed paint.
Largest cock up was knocking the IPA over a relatively rare 2-8-0 Bachman ROD in GWR colour meaning I had to respray the whole loco as it coated the whole side of the loco so I may as well of just got the BR loco which is easier to find :)
I’ve yet to address hiding these mistakes!
@@ChadwickModelRailway weather them, it's BR days, dirt is good, holds them together 😂
When applying decals, I use a paintbrush like you did, but I also have a pair of curved of forceps (tweezers) and also keep a dry brush available. I have both positive and negative sets of curved forceps. As far as cock-ups are concerned, although I have been number changing for a while, things can still go wrong. Such things as transfers curling over, half the number missing so you have to re-do the number, it coming off afterwards. Another one, touching it too soon and finding that it has attached to my finger. Steam front number plates can be very difficult because they are larger than the plate on which they sit. The other issue with steam, because the backing is white, not noticing that there is a power classification above the number and finding that there are now two power classifications on the side. I am about to try decal fix for the first time.
Great comment Don. I'll checkout the forceps optons.
"Why have I got three? Well, I'm a lot more stupid than you originally thought..."
Actually, I do like them. But is there any real reason to have three, perhaps?Regards Charlie
Superb video Charlie, just what I wanted to see. I like you wish to go for mid 60's to early seventies era but up to now have found very few models in BR blue but with pre TOPS numbers. I now, can't wait to get my hands on some models & do some re numbering of my own thanks to your excellent findings. Thanks again, stay safe & keep up the great work!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Nick.
Another good video,, I use enamel thinner and a cotton wool bud which works well on Bachmann locomotives I use the same method as you to apply the numbers but I make a little puddle of water / decal mix on the loco and let the numbers come off on the backing while sat on the locomotive then use a bit of kitchen paper towel to soak away the mix which leaves you just to position and saves the need to transport the decals from the bowl to the locomotive and limits the risk of the decal folding on itself
Another useful option Paul.
Hi Charlie removing decals is fairly straight forward but when something is painted on it’s very much harder Last summer I had to rename a Heisler logging locomotive.I ended up taping off the tender and priming and repainting it then adding my decals and with normal amounts of weathering you can’t tell.I look forward to your videos in these troubled times they allow us to forget briefly what is descending on us cheers from Canada
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed my pain Mark. Stay safe mate.
Well done Charlie another informative video, you never disappoint keep them coming please.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it HOJ.
Hi Charlie. Loved the video as I look sadly at over 800 N Gauge wagons ready for decals and weathering 😒But then I thought that about hand painting thousands of sleepers on my layout and once started the job was on its way. Strange thing is on week 3 of my lockdown I thought yay! 12 weeks of modelling....I will start soon when I've cleraed up everything in the house that needs doing 😊😊
Thanks for sharing....stay safe and keep well.
Cheers, Bob
I'm so pleased that you're using your time wisely Bob.
I have to admit I never had the courage to renumber any of my locos. Maybe with this new layout I will give it a try. Thanks for the information Charlie. Great video.
Sadly I learned the hard way this time Larry.
Charlie get some tweezers and cotton buds, roll the cue tip over the decal once it’s in place . Use tamiya decal fix sorted
Good tip Les, thanks.
Decals should be put onto a gloss surface which adheres better and helps hide the carrier film.
And once you buffed with T-Cut, you have the gloss surface Gary.
Charlie I did wonder if that was sufficient, found a good article on paint a while back now a Matt surface consists of a load of little indentations which is why transfers don’t stick too well whereas gloss is smooth when viewed under a microscope I assume the t cut is smoothing out the surface
A 70/30 mix of pva with de-ionised water and these will stick like superglue
Great video Charlie. Not Rail related as such, but I'm working my way through redecalling (if thats a word) a load of Corgi and EFE buses into my local Eastern Counties fleet.
What I use for removing the tampo printing is clear nail varnish remover, which is just acetone really. As the saying goes, most of what you need to build a model railway comes from the kitchen or the other half's bathroom store!
As long as you are gentle and the model doesnt have multiple layers of paint this works quite nicely. Yes I've got a couple where i'm going to have to repaint as the red top coat hid a lighter white coat underneath on two vehicles which came through when removing the printing, but majority came through unscathed.
I find using warm water with a dash of washing up liquid (as per Foxs instructions) works well and yes the humble cocktail stick is a must as is a pair of tweezers. I wait until the decal is just movable off the backing paper and then gentle guide it onto the model as with your second D400 application. This keeps it flat as well as helping guide it on straight.
Just got to find a good varnish now....
Great advice mate, thanks.
Looks as if you have lots of patience that I don't have. As always thanks for the hints....thanks for sharing....Jack 👍
As long as you enjoyed it Jack.
I bet you needed a bottle of IPA afterwards !!! Of course I’m talking about a bottle of “ pale ale” 😁😁😁
Whiskey was the answer Diaxy
Hi Charlie, I have never taken off decals that way I have always used a very fine sandpaper and the repaint it but this was very eye opening. And I love the way you talk through it all.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it 4E.
The good old days when there where only a few Numbers on the locos. Now try that with that UIC-Number-Code on each Loco or coach for that matter, if the numbers are big enough to be readable. - i have seen a guy doing that in Z-Scale. Absolute madlad, but he did it.
Yes, some peoples skills are breathtaking. Regards Charlie.
Charlie, I have had many a decal disaster myself. Always goes wrong when people are watching! A tip given to me several years ago was to actually soak the decal on a damp sponge. Once the decal comes adrift in the water all, well in most cases, is lost. It is important to slide the decal off the backing paper actually on the model not lifting the decal itself to the model. Micro-sol helps the decal to slide off the backing paper. As others have said you should apply the decal to a gloss surface.
Sadly I learned the hard way this time Mike.
Good tip with the cotton buds and decal fix. Trashed quite a few decals in my time! I very carefully scraped the decals off one of my Heljan Claytons without doing too much damage - it was getting repainted though... For a bit of variety, you could have done one or two of your 50's without the D and have those more pristine.
Sadly I learned the hard way this time D126
It's Friday - it's 12pm - it's Charlie bishop with another fantastic helpful video with more great advise ☺ thankyou Charlie
You’re too kind Justin
Nice to see you haven't lost your touch, but I now need a lie down, the tension.
I was exhausted too.
Hi Charlie, I’ve just gotten around to watching this video as I need to renumber a Farish Class 47 to D1661 North Star on the WSR. Having done a few N scale locos in the past (that have been dreadful) I had some success with a micro fibreglass pencil that I have on a Class 33. The tip is only about 1mm in diameter and it just gently abrades the numbers off without the mess of T cut. But having now read some of the comments on Micro Sol, I’ll give that a go this time. You 4mm scale guys have it easy... 🤣
Not with my hands. I shall revisit renumbering and hopefully “up my game”. Regards Charlie.
OMG Charlie, as an inveterate plastic modeller who’s just come to model railways I had my hands over my eyes as you stabbed at that decal in the dish with a modelling knife! Use a paintbrush to turn them. There’s 208 comments already so I haven’t read them all but I fully agree with Micro Sol comments, it’s great stuff, bin the Humbrol Decalfix. You were lucky the Fox decals are so robust, many others would have been like mangled seaweed or just broken to pieces. But you got there in the end so we’ll done you!
You call it a disaster, I call it a brilliant antidote to Coronavirus blues, but then I’m just that kind of guy...keep up the great work.
TonyS
Tony, it’s comments such as yours that keep me going.
Good job, Charlie, I was rooting for you when you put on that first decal.😁
We won in the end Mark
Congratulations Charlie on a warts and all video. Transfers, I’ve had a few tantrums in the modelling room (kitchen) a 60 yrs old man throwing the Teddy out the Cot ain’t pretty. 😂🤣 Thanks for the effort Charlie particularly in these difficult times.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Colin
Another thing, I believe the tampo printing is a kind of ink rather than a paint and is applied on a roller rather than a stamp. An old acquaintance of mine had his own machine here in Aus when he started up Biante models. Cheers
Thanks for the info Chris.
Nail biting stuff at times charlie, when you put that IPA on I was optimistic, then when you rubbed with the cotton bud my heart sank.
I think you did the job admirably, i've not yet plucked up the courage to try even a simple wagon decal, just first time nerves.
Thanks for the video, stay safe charlie.
All the best Alex.
Sadly I learned the hard way this time Alex.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks to your video Charlie I actually did some decals, changed an old lima seacow to its correct sealion fishkind.
Thank you for giving me the inspiration.
Alex
Been putting this off for so many years, really should give it a go at some point. Glad to see the screw ups as well as the finished articles... 👍
Telling the truth is so impotrtant in this game TVMR.
Lemon juice...Not a disaster!
Weathering, now you can use the IPA to remove paint to add your own. You have "matching" blue paint.
Are panel replacements common on the locomotives?
In North America/Canada, locomotive body-parts sometimes are discoloured. Engine fixes or parts replacement are not widespread, but they can differentiate "identical" locomotives.
Your D418, 408, and 400... were all their paint jobs perfect-spot on? Maybe so.
But, if not, a splash of IPA could help mimic partial fading or staining of paint on the bodies. The total removal of the blue to the shell, you could add a bit of "primer-stain"... black exhaust could fade some roof (add a wash of IPA) and perhaps where some flames were shooting out (remove with IPA) the blue and add some bare paint... ...Remove more chances and do your own decaling with numbers, transport stripes, and builder's plate. Oh, put a dash of your blue paint on it as well. Make them "Your" perfect jobs!
John
Sound advice John. They need weathering to different degrees.
Great video Charlie!
I’ve yet to try this as I’ve been too apprehensive. Your video has really helped.
Although I did think think that D400 was going to end up on the cab window!
Really informative, thank you.
I'm so pleased that you enjoyed it Richard,
Hi charlie
Have resurrected my railway which is set up in attic ,in the last couple of weeks have dug it all up and have completely changed everything with new boards laid and am in the process of formulating track plan have watched alot of your videos and have found them very useful , have always found transfers annoying its hard to stop fiddling with them as you'll experienced ,one time after what seemed like an age getting it in place i dabbed one with some tissue the transfer ended up stuck to it , dont understand why when you had successfully used the t cut and the other didn't work out you insisted on trying it again. Anyhow keep up the good work and i will keep watching well done and superb job on the viaduct.
Regards
David
Hi David, I used the IPA again to test the paint on locos from various manufacturers.
Good luck with your project, regads charlie
I’m so glad you’re well, Charlie.
This will come in handy if I can’t find a named loco but know the class of it. Having said that, the fiddlyness of it will be a challenge to me. I gave up on making a pair of RCA cables yesterday for my CD player because when I tried to solder the wire to a tiny pin, my hands were shaking so bad I was moving more than a break-dancer lol.
Age is a beast that’s for sure JM
Nice one Charlie. I have had a decal curl up on me before now and I found the best way to uncurl it was to put it straight back in the water. It uncurls itself. Good eh? Great video, well presented as always.
Great tip Kevin, many thanks.
Great video as usual .You've just given me several reasons not to change decals .I have enough problems putting decals on WW2 model aircraft , they are a pain . Keep safe and look forward to another vid.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it David.
Brilliant video Charlie. Hope you are keeping safe.
Thanks, you too mate