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Laying Track with Super Elevation at Chadwick Model Railway | 39.
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- Опубликовано: 14 авг 2024
- How to lay track at an angle, Super Elevation.
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Hi Charlie, Great YT clip as always, loved this video, as it tended to combine it not only scenic side but also the Fiddle Yard side where the track goes off to many lines on its way in where the first few points are on Curve in order the get as many lines as possible in the space you have to play with as it where. Great to see the Curve points been used as the main subject, and yes i like you went to Lead Free but found it didn’t bond as good and over time Lead Tin Solder along with a good Flux as become the norm again. TopTip... Great idea about the Placard under the outer edge of the track to enable a slight lean to into the bed as you come off the straight into the bend, i thought this was an excellent idea. 💡 The glue i’ll give it a try like you i’m always up for new or better ways to make the job easier.. I always cover all the boards with 1/16 cork all over then i use the same again cut to 50mm strips (I’m sure you have coved that in previous YT clips) and i put the 50mm cork under each track to allow better looking depth once i Gravel the track, i may use your Placard Trick and place them between the base cork and my 50mm cork to give that look of leaning in. in the past i have sanded the 50mm cork on the one side to give the same effect but yours seems simpler and more straight forward but i will keep to my 50mm cork lengths on top of the sheet of cork that is all over the base boards. Great YT clip and a Thumbs up Charlie, until the next time, take care 👍...!
Hi Jamie, such kind words. I really did enjoy researching the super elevation data. I ended up in the York museum reading the the GWR guidance literature. Fascinating stuff.
Good luck with your layout.
Regards Charlie
my name is Frans Peeters and I live in Belgium. I think your videos are great, I enjoy every episode. Although I am a garden railroader, I still can use your ideas for my hobby. Thank you very much.
Hi Frans,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the videos. It’s great to have you onboard.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. You have got me hooked! Coming up to retirement my Son Robert (24) says "Dad its about time we get the model railway going.
So after finding your youtube channel I cannot stop watching. Excellent presentation and very professional . The humor is most welcome and very good how you highlight the best way of doing things. Got the main baseboard finished tonight, looking good. I think I've seen all your videos now and have learnt so much. Keep up the excellent work Charlie . Peter. Brixham
Peter, it’s comments such as yours that make it worthwhile.
Good luck with your project.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. Enjoying your new series of videos - very informative. I put superelevation on my layout last year on a curve exiting a tunnel and the effect was really good. I did however find a problem with what had been one of my best running locos suddenly stopping and starting whilst going round the curves, despite 2 or 3 weeks of testing before the track was fixed and ballasted.
My father in law and I have an embarrassingly large number of locos, and a fraction of them run on the layout at any one time. This particular loco was put on about 4 weeks after the curve was super elevated and staggered its way round the curve (36" radius). Investigation revealed that the alignment of the pick ups was being affected by the superelevation - suggesting the loco was sliding over to one side on the curve and losing contact from the other. A strip down of the chassis, a good clean of the contacts and a slight easing outwards of the pickups resolved the problem.
The videos of trains coming round the curve look terrific, and when watching from a distance you can see the difference. Well worth doing.
Keep up the good ŵork 🙂
Drc
Hi David,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. The super elevation certainly looks good. An interesting tale regarding your loco with a good outcome.
Good luck with your layout.
Regards Charlie
Another fantastic video. Charlie you are soon going to be one of the biggest channels and it will be well deserved.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Yes the channel has grown a little faster than I had hoped. Fingers crossed that folks stay interested.
Regards Charlie
Just getting back in to the hobby after a couple of years off due to work commitments, your videos are very informative. Really enjoying watching them. Thanks.
Thanks mate, I’m so pleased that you enjoy them.
Hi Charlie Another Great tutorial on you layout 😊 So pleased you take note form the comments and try out different products that are suggested!! Watching your videos has stated me tidying my garage again so I can start up my layout. again 👍🏻 Cheers Stevie.
Hi Stevie,
If I can inspire you to tidy your shed, then I’m a happy guy.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, I needed to let you know that I find your videos and the hints and tips they contain so helpful. The expression ‘Your never too old to learn’ certainly applies to me - Now on my 4th ‘permanent’ layout in 60 years, following the most recent house move. Your your style of presentation makes for such a good overall experience. Thank you for all the care you take for our benefit.
.
My own track laying methods are similar (including the wiring mods and droppers on ‘electrofrog’ points and the pre- drilling of holes below the tie bars on all points). I’ll also be cutting off the unwanted tiebar extensions etc as you advocated in anther video.
As my curves are generally a bit tighter (3rd and 4th radius) I also cut the 50mm wide underlay cork down the centre of each length which makes fixing down easier as each half strip follows the required curve. My tip - Instead of using books as weights to hold the track, whilst Copydex fully dries, I weigh down the track with with old and ‘dead’ laptop batteries placed on top of a strip of timber. I find that leaving a newly laid track overnight is sufficient to get a good bond.
Your advice to take lots of time plan in advance and use the ‘Peco’ templates is sound. I have had great results using ‘Anyrail’ planning software. (Just a satisfied customer, no commercial interest!)
When printed out 1:1 the accuracy of the track library is remarkable and so useful. I just print the local section I’m working on or it would be 350 pages of A4!
Please keep up all the good work and shared experiences.
Best Regards,
Tony
Hi Tony, I’m so pleased that you enjoy the videos and it’s comments such as yours that make it worthwhile.
Regards Charlie
I watched your video tonight and it proved very useful, I'm rebuilding my layout and have reached exactly the same track laying stage and seeing this prompted me to go back and relay some points, this time with a hole for the point motors! Thanks!
Hi Mike, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video and found it useful.
Regards Charlie
Thank you very much for sharing your wisdom on model railroading.I look forward to your videos .Great job on anything you do.
Hi Jeff,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video,
Regards Charlie
Really enjoying your videos and as I embark on my 5th attempt at building a layout, I'm watching closely! Much appreciated. Dave.
Hi Dave,
I’m so pleased that you enjoy my videos.
Good luck with your layout.
Regards Charlie
After placing the track to the adhesive, you might want to try using a "J" roller pressing down over the length of track to make sure even contact between the track and adhesive. I love your videos
Thanks Errol, much appreciated.
Regards Charlie
I enjoy you and many other Railway youtubers because I don't have the time/money/space currently for a layout but still love model trains and everything that goes into them. Maybe someday in the future I will have time/space/money and can take on a layout with my son but at present he is only 3 months old so he has little interest in doing anything other than eating sleeping and pooping.
Give him time and nurture that boyhood dream.
I find this so informative after watching another....great stuff Charlie
Thanks David, you’re too kind.
Informative, interesting, personable. The whole production is a very enjoyable experience. Keep up the great work.
Thanks Paul, it’s comments like yours that make it worthwhile. Regards Charlie
The boiling point of Lead is 1749c degrees, there is no way to get lead poisoning from the solder fumes. However you can get lead poisoning from handling the lead and then ingesting it. The fumes are the byproduct of the flux burning and may still be harmful.
A good point M64, many thanks.
HI Charlie, another great video demo everything progressing along nicely , I am looking forward to your next video once again great job and nicely presented. Regards George..
Thank you George for your kind comments. Regards Charlie.
I do love watching these updates. I did notice after you ran the coach through the elevated curve that there is a definitive angle at the join with the curved point. Maybe if you lift the end of the point by 0.5mm it will give it a smoother transition to the flat.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video Leo. I’ll check the curved point later and sort out any issues.
Regards Charlie
Another great video. Just my two cents worth. Lead free solder is terrible for electronic work, especially on small jobs. The heat necessary for a good bond is too high, so you’ll almost always wind up with a “cold” joint that will reduce your conductivity. And the a id fluxes cause long term corrosion unless you can properly neutralize and clean them. As a couple other commentors have said, you won’t inhale lead from the smoke. It’s just the rosin burning off.
I'm now using 60/40 David, it's so much better.
Cracking video Charlie. Making good progress. All the best mate.
Hi Tase,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Regards Charlie
Charlie
Many thanks for the quick reply ref seep polnt motor fixing. Just watched your latest video and you've answered my question. Incidentally yes his name is Richard not Chris put it down to a senior moment.
Many thanks again
Mike Tee
I’ll always try to help Mike.
It was widely believed that the move to lead-free soldering would create more environmentally-friendly conditions; however because of the higher temperatures required and extra flux used lead-free soldering smoke emissions actually contain more fine dust particles which are easier to breathe in.
And it took me a fair while to learn that 60:40 was much better.
There is no lead in lead-free solder, or the smoke from the flux. And in lead-free processes, as I describe in a reply to a comment above, lead contamination can lead to latent failures like dreaded tin whiskers. You can’t reliably mix the two processes, and professional manufacturers have been required by law to use lead-free processes for a couple of decades.
Lead solder might be easier to use for those without the right equipment and technique, but lead-free is fully compatible with modern electronics, is environmentally better and leads to unreliability in today’s electronics environment.
Use whatever solder you choose, but do make a factually informed choice.
The best solder to use is not 60/40 but 63/37 the small difference in ratio makes a big difference in performance. Also the smoke that comes off the solder when it melts is the flux not the lead
Hi Richard, you’re not the first to mention those points. Is 63/47 much more expensive?
Im not sure if its a deal more expensive it certainly is more difficult to find.
For what it’s worth, as a professional electronics design engineer, lead solder is certainly easier to use, but with the right temperature, good flux and practice, lead free solder is perfectly good.
Lead solder has some hidden demons that can seriously affect the reliability of your electronics, without even considering the environmental impact the lead will have long after your layout and rolling stock are landfill. The law has prohibited professional manufacturers from using lead solder for a couple of decades now (hobbyists can legally do what they like so long as they don’t sell what they make) and all responsible electronics manufacturers selling into the UK or the EU use lead-free soldering processes _throughout._
One of the early problems with lead-free solder was _tin whiskers,_ crystalline growths of tin which occur over time and cause short circuits in microelectronic assemblies such as DCC decoders and similar circuits. The biggest cause of tin whiskers turned out to be contamination of lead-free solder with small quantities of lead. So using lead solder on lead-free electronics can lead to failures down the line. Worse, solder adheres to your iron tips, so once your iron is contaminated with lead it can then contaminate lead-free assemblies even if you try to keep lead-free solder for delicate circuits.
My solution has been to eliminate lead solder entirely from my work and hobby environments, use a good quality temperature controlled iron, good quality lead-free solder with no-clean flux (plumbers flux is highly corrosive to electronics) and practice a good technique. And I commend this method to all!
Great video again Charlie, I enjoy watching your tutorials on a Friday 😉
It’s great to have you onboard Dave.
Just watched the video as is popped up in my timeline, nice work on the very slight amount of camber, I've also used a camber of 1mm on the no1 platform that is situated on a curve.
Hi RJ,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
I’ve also finished an express line which I used 1.5mm. Of course it’s how it runs that matters. Good luck with your layout.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie
Good video as always and a pleasure to watch
Euan
I’m here to please Eian, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Very good made video. Very good for beginners and very good to understand. Have a lot of fun and satisfaction by making future videos! Max.
Hi Max,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. It’s great to have you onboard.
Regards Charlie
Thank you! I'm also making videos, but reviews of EU and US engines and rolling stock. I'm trying to catch details of models, because a lot of other videos got too low quality. If you want you can check it: ruclips.net/user/maxsupercars
Max Supercars
Hi Max, I’ve subbed you back.
Charlie great! Hopefully you will like the reviews... 😊
another informative video keep up the good work
Thanks John, regards Charlie
Like that great advice I will have to store this in my head for my new layout !!!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it
Regards Charlie
Thanks Charlie, really appreciate these. I notice that you have swapped from one type of track bed (was it the Woodland Scenics in the station and elevated section?) to cork elsewhere and then nothing on this video. Is this just what’s available, turn out related or have you now got a preference? And thanks for the link to the wire stripper (elsewhere), of course I then saw you provide that in two other places already! “RTFM” best comment so far and took me back to my RAF days, thanks!
I’m currently using the WS trackbed. The videos was and older release when I just used cork. Regards Charlie
I certainly did enjoy this video, and as usual everything was very well explained. CheersGreg
Thanks Greg, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it as usual. Regards Charlie
Putting a camber on a track is so easy and very effective.
Yes Mark, it was much easier than I thought that it was going to be.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
Regards Charlie
Excellent video Charlie. Found this video very useful as for using copydex will be trying that instead of uhu with pins thanks charlie
Hi John,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Regards Charlie
I like what you did on the curve.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Excellent video Charlie, very Informative.................John.
I only hope that it entertains John.
Regards Charlie
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make and share this. Thanks also for the sub. Keep up the good work. All the best....Tom
Hi Tom, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it and thanks for the return sub.
Regards Charlie
Loving watching your video very good
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Brian. Regards Charlie
Copydex you will find at most carpet fitters stores
Good point Adrian. I think I bought mine from Hobbycraft.
Hi great video your videos are very helpful and very useful brilliant
Hi, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Good information, thank you for sharing.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Jack.
great informative video thanks
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Phillip.
Regards Charlie
Another good one.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Alan.
Hi Charlie, thanks for another great video! Sorry I’m new to the party (and commenting on a 4 year old video). I’m studying as much as I can before building my first N gauge layout.
My question is _why disconnect the blades from the frog?_
I want to start with manual points operation and progress to weathering the track and automating the points with MP1 or MP5 servo motors. I was thinking of adding droppers to both the blades connection and the frog connection, so in the first instance I can reconnect the two beneath the board and have the blade tips switch the frog as Peco intend. Then later I could isolate the blades (electrically following your scheme) and wire the frog to the relay output of the points motor to switch it automatically.
But won’t that leave the blades with unreliable connections if I weather the track? Wouldn’t it be better to leave the blades connected to the frog, add the frog dropper as you show and have the relay switch the blades in parallel with the blade tips, thus providing better continuity across the points under all circumstances?
I know there is the potential for a short circuit if the relay and points do not operate in unison, but I will be using short circuit protected boosters throughout to protect against such failures.
Any light on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
I understand your thought process Mark. However, isn’t that a bit of a Pfaff. On electro frog points, it’s far easier to snip through the wires and add a set of droppers. Regards, Charlie
Very good! Can't wait to see more progressive ideas!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. Regards Charlie
Thanks again Charliefor rhisgreat video!!! Regards Onno.
I’m always trying to please Onno.
Regards Charlie
Progressing nicely Charlie.
Heading towards my track laying video being released later next week and have a nice fast line on a slight curve with super elevation. Ive watched a few real videos and found 1 that shows the inner line dipping lower rather than the outer line rising. I experimented with both versions and found i was never happy with using the outer line rising as you could notice the train going up and into the transistion on the tilt. Thats really noticable when running long trains..it never had a smooth transistion. So took the option to drop the inner line. Mines banked around 3mm..
Copydex is a good worthy glue and ive stuck my cork down with it but stuck with wood glue for the track.
Tim
Hi Tim, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it. I’ll be watching out for yours.
Regards Charlie
Great update.thanks
Hi Jim, I’m just trying to keep you entertained. Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway
That .and I am learning things .
Great Charlie.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Nigel.
I modified my point in the exact same way you did, great minds think alike!! 👍
Hey, we must be cleverer than we thought!
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
Chadwick Model Railway Now I wish my layout had a curve to super elevate!
There’s always the next layout!
Chadwick Model Railway I think I will finish Toredale first.
Hi Charlie,
I was going to ask you why frogs that are found in railway points are called frogs. I found the answer on t’internet.
They are not called frogs because they were designed by a Frenchman, as I think some may have thought, but rather it is from a horse’s hoof. The part of a horse’s hoof which is flat to the ground has a triangular shape in the middle of the hoof, which looks very like the middle part of a railway’s point. Since blacksmiths were used to make the early rails for railways, and blacksmiths were also well used to making horseshoes, they would have been familiar with the middle of the sole of a horse’s foot. And now we know!
Hopefully some will find this informative.
Now all I have to do is study your videos hard to see how to wire up your point motors! They might be obvious to electricians like yourself, but it’s a bit less straightforward to the rest of us... thanks for your help in working it out.
Regards,
Jim
Hi Jim, what a great piece of research. Many thanks Charlie
What a great channel! Subbed!
Great to have you onboard flippop.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie. Nice job on this and very enjoyable video to watch. Wondering if you could explain again the process of modding the points? Why do you snip the two at the start? Also, why the wire to the frog? Cheers, Teddy.
Hi Teddy, I believe that Dave at Dean Park produced a good video on this 3 or 4 weeks ago. Regards Charlie
Interesting An excellent video, Keep up the good work :)
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. Regards Charlie
I watch another modeler use thin white tape to do the super elevation and he layered it to smooth it out.
An interesting point Adam.
Great video Charlie. Very informative indeed. My question to you is this. What radius of easement curves are you going to be using in this new section of your layout?
Hi, these curves are no tighter than 36 inch radius. I’m away at the moment but hopefully I’ll measure them on my return. Regards Charlie
Another very informative video. As a former professional videographer and video and TV techniques teacher, I am as interested in the quality of your broadcasts as I am the content. Nicely done all round, my friend... I would have graded your videos as a distinction for City and Guilds level 3 lol. As for the Copydex, am I right in that it dries clear? It's a smell from my childhood, as my mum used to dig out the Copydex for our craft making as kids :)
Hi Richard,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
Yes I too have moved away from studio photography but I still have a few rolls of colourama cluttering up the place.
I do enjoy the video side but it is very time consuming.
Yes the Copydex does dry clear and has a fishy smell.
Good luck with your project and do keep me posted.
Regards Charlie
Another great video and they are all so informative that I end up watching each one several times. At my age it doesn’t go in as quickly! Question. What era did they start using elevation? I’m aiming at about 1920. Would it have been used then? The resulting effect is great.
Hi Brian,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video.
I’m convinced that super elevation was in use in the 1920s. After all the City of Truro recorded 102 mph in 1904.
I’ll be at the York Railway Museum next month and I’m sure they will have more details.
Regards Charlie
I wonder, whether it will be easy to dismantle the tracks without damage, after using white glue.
Yes, just use hot water and work with care.
Can I ask a question about your camera set up and remote control? Been enjoying your videos, great to follow you building new boards etc. Love the use of a remote control on your camera zone. What camera are you using please? Does the control come with the camera? Great set up, what a great idea for making videos.
Hi David,
My main camera is a Sony XDCAM 160 and sadly they don’t make it anymore. It does come with a small remote which allows you to start and stop recording and also zoom in and out. The auto focus is pretty good too.
But, as you’d expect, it wasn’t cheap but I had bought it for a different project.
I’m sure that you can find much cheaper alternatives that are just as good.
I hope that this helps.
Regards Charlie
Great as always but 1 question as always on my part, what are the green extra drop soldering-connections for?
That one was for the frog, to enable the power to be switched when the point is thrown
@@ChadwickModelRailway Ok thanks I'm not at home yet with these frogs?!
Charles. What was the plastic you used? I see acrylic sheets but then spotted my zip tie organizer and has .5 and 1mm this so I will chop that up and apply but I had no idea how tricky it is to find think plastic I have heaps of edging and profile and all sorts of things that could be applicable but it’s not until you reach the application you scramble to remember what materials you had and most importantly where on earth I left them probably hanging on the washing line next to all my track LOL
All I used was sheets of plastic card bought from Model Railway Shops. The thickness is normally .5 mm and 1 mm then cut to size. Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway yes see we don’t have any access to that unfortunately my nearest store is a good half a days drive just to get there but that’s what it is I’ll have to improvise as always it’s the wonderful life we lead. And may I just take my hat off to you sir for your prompt oh wise professional responses you simply live in breathe your enthusiasm and it certainly is infectious. 👍🏼
Just found you, and subscribed, very informative. Guess I'm going to watch the rest of your videos. Interest to learn what glue you used for sticking the cork sheet down please?
Hi Trev, I do hope that you enjoy my other videos.
I used cheap PVA to glue down the cork sheets.
Regards Charlie
Thank you Charlie.
Folks, lead free solder is mandated for plumbing work as over time lead would leach into water that might then be drunk. That does not apply for electrical work and resin cored 60:40 tin:lead solder is the weapon of choice and had been for a very long time. I rather suspect that the fumes Charlie refers to are due to the flux, not the lead, but he's right, it's unwise to breath them in directly. Large scale soldering stations have extract arrangements, but for small jobs like this common sense goes a long way. Maybe use a fan to disperse the smoke and dilute it in the room air below a point where it represents any concern. It's important to understand that electrical solder is an alloy, not a mix with seperate lead and solder paricles. Incidentally there are solders that will melt in a hot cup of tea - it's an old trick to give the unsuspecting victim a tea spoon made out of such an alloy. Also wise not to let them drink the tea! Such low melting point solders are widely used in assembling brass railway model kits as they will avoid melting a nearby joint made with a higer melting point solder. BobUK
Some excellent points Robert, many thanks.
Flux cored lead solder can't be beaten, better to have a small fan near to blow fumes away from your face and open a window to exchange some air. I use Copydex (no pins) to glue track down and a 50/50 (Copydex/water) mix for the ballasting (needs the ballast presoaking with IPA). You should use track setters to maintain the curves and weight the track down while it dries with weights. (see tip 911 at www.lumsdonia.co.uk/tips900.html#911 )
Thanks for the solder tips TimberSurf. I do use Tracksetta to ensure smooth curves but I’ve yet to try Copydex in ballasting. Regards Charlie
As an old electronics Boffin I can assure you that the “fumes” are actually from the flux burning off. 60/40 lead/tin solder is by far superior to that lead free rubbish but in either case you should heat the rail or the wire then introduce the solder. This way the rosin is doing its job of “cleaning” the joint or contact and not just burning off on the iron. Tin the wire by using your helping hands, tin the rail then when you place the wire on the rail and heat the joint the solder that is already there will “reflows and complete a good bond. Just sticking in my twopence worth.
All advice is welcomed Bruce.
Hi there could you give me a link to the best oo guage track to use.
Peco is probadly the best all round company but it depends on your gauge and era.
Uncle Google will help.
Hi Charlie. Your videos are helping me on my first layout now I've retired,thank you. Guessed the width of the elevation pieces,but not how long. I suppose longer than two or three sleepers should do it. Any thoughts Charlie? Regards Malcolm
I just guessed the length until it looked right but you probably knew that.
Charlie ("Chall-ee") (as we say in the US lol) what exactly are the "plastic cards" you are using? Thanks!
Hi there, plasticard is sheets of thin plastic sheets which are available in various thicknesses and colours. I’m sure that if you put plasticard into eBay, you’ll find these products.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks Charlie. What thickness are you using?
Hi charlie great video been watching recent videos you have been doing and they have been very helpful for me with going forward with my layout extension, with the banking i tried on my current layout but i used the cork underlay which was to much for some of my loco's to run over so you putting plasti card has made me think of other ideas of banking, could you make the track with this banking method go into a snake like effect as im thinking of doing that going through the new station area instead of being flat and boring, thanks agian for sharing when i start laying track after constructing the boards i'll come back to watch these video's step by step cheers again Beeton Hough Junction (Dave C)
Hi Dave,
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed the video. I’m unsure if you can snake the track through your station. But hey, as long as it isn’t ballasted it easy to pull it up and re-lay it.
Good luck with your layout.
Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway
Hi Charlie
I havent laydd any track as ive sent my layout plans to a friend who knows how to use anyrail and is going to see if the idea i have will fit on the size of boards i want if not wil go back to the drawing board but probably wont see if it works until i get to laying track mayeb if not then will just have to be banked on one side and have it as a long sweeping bend through the station, look forward to your next video cheers Beeton Hough Junction (Dave C)
Well, exciting times.
Good luck with your layout.
Regards Charlie
Need so advice please. Planning new layout in my new trainshed. Thinking 22inch square boards in the corners with straight 4ft boards joining to the corner boards? Good method or bad please advise thanks
Hi John,
Loads of room for N Gauge but I imagine that you’re using 00.
It’s a bit tight but 3rd radius curves have a 19 inch radius so they should just fit. It would be best to print the Peco track templates for a more accurate picture of the end result before you spend any cash.
Regards Charlie
Chadwick Model Railway thanks. I take it increase the size and yes it's 00 gauge
john slade .
Bigger is usually better but please spend a great deal of time designing the track plan.
Regards Charlie
The track plan will be my next problem
Where is the previous video?? You tube not smart enough to show videos in sequence.. they show last videos first and i have no idea which video you are referring too..
They are numbered.
Is it possible to superelevate standard curves, or can you only use flex track?
Hi Dominic, I would guess the set-track might be too rigid. All the more reason for you to try using flexible track.
Okay, thanks
Unlike the real thing model locos dont like too much cant as they can stall due to power loss. The key is to do lpts of testing with alllocos and stock to ensure you get no wheel lift. The bachmann mk1s are a prime example for doing that.
Planning and testing is the key FWB.
The method you are showing for using fluxed solder is incorrect, the flux is being burnt off before it has done anything? A small amount of solder should be added to the iron tip to aid heat transfer, the iron tip should then be placed on the item you are soldering, then the fluxed solder should be fed onto the tip and item being soldered at the same time, this way the flux will flow onto the item being soldered.
Hi David, many thanks for your advice but when soldering to the rail that is exactly what I had done, or at least what I thought I had done.
Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, you certainly do when soldering the rails, but not when you were tinning the wires, I have always used fluxed solder for small wiring and other jobs, the longer you heat solder for the more chance there is of a dry joint, try putting a small amount of solder on the iron tip to help heat transfer, then hold it to the wire you are tinning, at the same time put the fluxed solder to the wire you are tinning, you will find that the flux in the solder will make it run quickly into the wire, this also works well on the rails as you were showing. Regards, David.
Thanks David, I’ll certainly give it a go.
You heat the job with the iron then add the solder. Don’t add solder to the iron then try and paste it onto the job.
Please stop saying "if that makes" sense as you alway,s do.Also you would have to do an awful lot of soldering to get any poisoning.Brilliant video.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Peter.
I prefer Silver Solder myself
Each to our own William.
on the other video you were soldering the wires to the inside of the rail, only one hole was necessary. Soldering points, you solder the wires to the outside, needing two holes??
That was a much earlier video Huib.
the toxicity of lead in metal form is greatly exagerated.
it only poses issues in salt form (such as it was used in white paint), and mostly impacts
An interesting comment AJ.
Have not used super elevation
Why was that Mike?
Never had the need for it lol
Superelevated track looks nice but I do not recommend it. Model railroad cars are too light weight to behave well on superelevated track and I have had problems with string lining causing derailments.
Sadly Dave, I don’t know what string lining is.
@@ChadwickModelRailway ruclips.net/video/f11nGRN-9gs/видео.html
Great shot. Lighter wagons at the front and heavier at the back, I’ll bet caused that!
Farmer Dave
Hi Farmer Dave,
I disagree, I have super elevated all curves on my main line track.
I found it necessary to super elevate my model railway track to allow me to increase the speed of my flat curves from a scale 65 mph to scale speeds of 80 to 90 mph, as trains on the Southern Region of British Railways in the 1960 didn't travel much faster that that.
Real railways use super elevation and transition curves to safely increase line speed the same way roading engineers use super elevation of our roads to safely increase speeds on curves. Barry
I don't get what this video was about?
Well Orry, it’s simply following the build of my new layout in which I’ve angled the track to replicate the real railway.
But why the 👎?
Regards Charlie