Hi Charleigh, Again, your videos are very interesting to watch, as I'm in a hospital in France . I am able to watch more without to many interruptions. Just brilliant. Alan
Great video, once again. I have so much to learn about model railroading. I'm thankful for people like you Charlie, that take the time to teach others. Thanks! I too want to shout out to Ray and his family and send words of encouragement to them, that they may have peace in their hearts.
Hello Charlie Thanks for saying hello to dad and for the amazing comments from the fellow modellers in here. Mum and dad had a bit of a tear in their eye when they watched the video We had a fun running session straight after we finished watching it and it was the best two hours. I’d love to show you photos of his layout so you can see how much we have learned from you channel and what we were able to put into practice And again thanks to everyone for their wonderful comments and well wishes for dad, it means the world to my family Cheers Aaron
Hi Aaron, I’m so pleased that your family liked the “Shoutout”. The comments from fellow modellers show what an understanding community we have. Good luck and do keep in touch. Regards Charlie.
Chadwick Model Railway hello mate, my dad has asked for your address. He has a special thank you gift for you. Dad worked at the south Maitland railways and was probably the last man standing that could repair the smr 10 class locos. He is well respected in the steam loco industry
Hi Aaron, I’d rather not put my address in a public forum. However, if you email me at charliebishop @ hotmail . co. uk I’ll gladly send it. Please make sure that you keep a lid on your Dad’s generosity. Regards Charlie
It still amazes me at how many different couplers you guys have for OO scale; over here in the states, HO scale is the most popular, but we really only have two different couplers; X2F (the older “horn hook”) couplers, or Kadee compatible knuckle couplers. The only other option is NEM couplings on Marklin models, which isn’t seen that much. There used to be an adapter coupling that would work with both X2F and Kadee couplers, but I haven’t seen those in my local hobby shop in decades. The same thing is true for N scale; we either have the old Arnold couplers, or the newer MicroTrains knuckle couplers. I can’t speak to Z, S, or O scale, as I don’t have any. Of course, some cars or locomotives have a drawbar if they’re intended to be permanently coupled, but this isn’t the norm except on auto racks, passenger trainsets, or TOFC/COFC wagons, which often have three or five wagons per “car”.
Hello Charlie,, great videos, love watching about 4pm with a dry Martini !! I am 74 and starting at model railways after 40 years I guess to build a layout for my grandson ! I am building an N guage which is nearly complete but has driven me mad, especially the rail joiners ! So now am looking at an OO guage layout on a large L shape baseboard,, much more satisfying ! Thx for keeping my spirits up at the end of a day when it has not gone well !! Keep up the great work Charlie,, much appreciated
Hi Charlie, I replace my couplings in a similar fashion as you describe, but rather than use M2 nuts and bolts, I use self-tapping screws salvaged from audio cassettes. They fit a treat, and are often blackened, saving yet another job. If you don't have any unwanted cassettes, charity shops sell them for next to nothing or often give them away. Very useful for other modelling jobs too.
Can you do a video on how to fit 3 link couplings on old rolling stock and wagons? Would be really helpful as I am attempting to make a layout and the drop link couplings on my older wagons are a bit noticeable. Cheers, Samuel :D
Charlie: You do an excellent job of explaining what and why you are doing. This is what makes what you do applicable to other gauges. I have been dealing with coupler issues. My rolling stock and locomotives span a number of years, The coupler wars resolved them seizes and the industry settled on micro trains coolers (this is only N scale). So a number of my cars and rolling stock have Ravarossi paddle couplers but most of my locomotives have micro trains couplers. Rolling stock is not as big of an issue but passenger cars require replacing the truck. This is a project that will take time an money. So what one does is making a transition car of a RPO. That is for 4 different road name passenger trains. Long story short is that the issues you are discussing relate to other scales. The issue of track radius is one of the issues that separate model railroading from toy trains. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to your next episode.
OMG it's the wheel flanges! That noise has been frustrating me so much. Now to find replacements for n gauge. Thank you Charlie, keep up the great work
Hi Charlie, Thanks for your plain speaking and clear videos they are a great watch. Like you I hate the horrible looking tension lock coupling, it is banished from my railway with just a couple of exceptions. I am a fan of the magnetic couplings for all of my passenger stock. From time to time I like to run my old Hornby Dublo stock and find their old buckeye coupling much more to my liking. My freight stock is all Hornby Dublo or Wrenn and I have removed the huge tension lock couplings and replaced them with either the Hornby Dublo type or a magnetic type that then gives me the coupling converter wagons to allow my modern loco's to haul the older wagons. I definitely prefer the magnetic type for fixed rakes of coaches, they look and work much better with constant tight gaps between vehicles whether pulling or propelling. Thanks again Mark
Morning Charlie Nice video about the couplings, I have a good collection of the old Container wagons, I've replaced most of the wheel sets which I got from Alan Gibson "Bulk Buy", would be interesting to see how you did the couplings on them, Regards Mick
Hi Charlie - just a thought with regard to the letter you read out from Aron at the start.... There is a way of running DC and DCC on the same layout, which is what I do having a mix of both DC and DCC locos. Provided the layout is wired for DC (which is the only way I know!), one can then use Bachmann's earlier "EZ Mate" controllers (NOT the later Dynamis full digital). The EZ DC controller can be plugged in series into the EZ DCC controller - the latter has a dedicated jack socket labelled "From DC Controller". Both controllers are fed from the same mains transformer plugged into the DCC controller and there is just one set of wires to the track feeds, again from the DCC unit. Then it is entirely possible to run DC locos and DCC locos on the same track section at the same time. It's just a good idea to ensure that DC locos are not sitting for long periods on track sections with a live DCC feed, hence the need to wire the layout with sections that can be isolated, either with toggle switches or using the points / turnouts to isolate sections. It's quite fun - and quite a challenge - to run long trains double-headed with a banker at the rear, 2 locos being separately coded DCC locos and the third being DC. This means all 3 locos have to be "driven" separately - 2 using the DCC controler and the third using the DC controller! I'm not sure that this can be done with other DCC / DC controller combinations.
The spv parcels vans, the one with nem couplings is either the new Hornby tooling or a parkside kit as Bachmann do not produce the spv x blue spot van fits.
@@ChadwickModelRailway also re your comment on the Bachmann Mk2 vs Mk1 roof height, this also spplies to there Mk1s ... for instance Mk1s fitted with B1 & commonwealth bogies buffers & roofs line up but ones fitted with B4 or X LNER bogies do not, yes they do look odd must be a tooling mistake in the height of the bogie with relation to underframe of coach, Im not sure but I think they retooled the B4 bogie for the new ac Mk2 fs
Cheers Charlie for another informative and interesting video. A credit to you for taking the time to do these mini productions and sharing your hints and tips etc. It goes to show what an impact one person can make on peoples lives. The example is, that Ray and his family found a way to overcome the stresses of ill health, and I wish the family many hours of joy together from this hobby of ours.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Yes indeed Charlie, as I haven't worked in 8-9 years now because of what happened to me. I am 54 now (golden years) and do my best to enjoy life but it is not hard to get oneself stressed and depressed. I feel lucky in away that this hobby helps me to focus and forget my troubled mind. People like yourself that make these little info films brings me great joy to watch and I appreciate all the work that goes into the production of them. So THANK YOU Charlie for doing them, the funny errors that you keep in (very entertaining) help to keep it light hearted. Cheers for sharing all the wonderful moments of hints, tips, info and gags along the way. Maybe you should do a Bloopers Reel too LOL.
Charlie your heartfelt shout-out to Ray was well done, and sincere. Bless you for trying to bring some joy into the life of a fellow human being who finds himself trapped in a terrible and frightening situation. On a happier note you may have noticed that RUclips has my name as Ernest, yet I sign as Ken and you may have wondered why.That is because my full name is Ernest Kenneth May. My Family and friends always called me Ken and so that is the version of my name that stuck . For official purposes I always sign using Ernest, but for common nonofficial purposes I use Ken. Feel free to use either as you prefer. Again bless you for what you did for Ray. Best Regards, Ken
Great video as always Charlie. I couldn't help noticing on your Mk 2 and Mk 1 restaurant that you have what look like Keen system buck eyes on there? I used to work with Roger Keen before he retired. Most of my fixed rakes of coaches including my Flying Scotsman set, Silver Jubilee set, Pullmans and London to Perth car carriers have these on. I have been to many exhibitions with him selling his products, I agree with you when you say these type of couplings give an extremely real look. If you reduce the Nem pocket, you can, with a bit fiddling get the buffers to touch, and if you put Rogers floating end plates on, you can get you corridor connectors to actually touch with no fouling round bends. I will send you some pictures of my rakes with these on, they look amazing.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I found that to start with, a bit of tinkering and as long as you are not going to marshal your rakes and they will stay as a rake, I find them fine. I have kit built a lot of my coaches and found that Tony Wrights version of a brass wire hook and loop along with fuse wire to represent the vacuum pipes look amazing.
Another great video Charlie, I've used Roco couplings on my passenger and parcels stock, with 2 different versions those from Hornby with a slightly longer shank, and genuine Roco's with a slightly shorter shank. On Bachmann Mk 1's after filing the underside of the draw bar beams later the Hornby Roco's will give an instant close coupling with corridor bellows connectors actually touching each other, GUV's also have a very realistic coupling effect with the Hornby Roco's. Some stock such as Hornby's Collets, Maunsell rebuilds and Bachmann's SECR Birdcage rhave required a mix of Genuine and Hornby Roco's. On Older stock which don't have what you call "Kinetic" couplings which act on a cam basis, I've cut a hole in the floor and inserted Symoba couplings which are also cam action. Having tried unsuccessfully to use Keen couplings on Mainline/Bachmann Collet coaches I've used the Symoba's very successfully with a mix as appropriate to achieve realistic coupling. The Symoba's use a cam action post on a small almost square base, NEM pockets are the fitted on the posts, the pockets are available in different sizes to suit required results. With the different Roco's and Pockets a great deal of variation can be achieved, I have a photo showing the variations which I'd upload here if I knew how. However here's a link to doing the same to Bachmanns old Bulleid stock; southernregionmodels.wordpress.com/rolling-stock/25-2/
well done mate im sure i can speak for us all we all gain inspiration from your videos keep up the great work and your shout out brought a lump to my throat
Hi Charlie - Very informative video and I have been going through my rolling stock changing over any plastic wheels to metal and will now look at the couplings. Also best wishes to Ray and his family this is a great hobby of ours that gives so much enjoyment to lots of people. Cheers Kev
Another very useful and informative video, thank you Charlie! Now I can go ahead and fiddle around with my old Hornby cement wagons to improve the couplings...
Another great video, Charlie, and thank you for posting. My layout is end to end, so all stock faces the same way. I put spot of correcting fluid underneath to check I have the item facing the right way. All my stock uses Kadees. With NEM pockets, I use an 18 at one end of the vehicle and a 19 at the other end. This gives me closer coupling on Radius 2, but not the buffer lock. With older stock, there's a fair amount of 'cosmetic surgery' and the Kadee 5 unit.
Hi Charlie thumbs up for a great part 1 tutorial. Gives me some ideas for changing couplings on my rolling stock. With regards to corridor connections I have got hold packs of folding paper corridor connections off that well known auction to replace the rigid plastic ones. Regards Gary.
First class Charlie.... Indeed, I replaced a whole rake of Lima hst executive coaches with 'peters spares' small flange wheels for code 75 and coupled them with Bachmann pipe couplers and the transformation is superb. Buffers are chopped off though to prevent locking but the mk 3s didn't have them on the hst rakes. £6 per coach plus laserglaze windows (£11) , NEM pockets....7 coaches, ...jeeez...
Good day Charlie, I have the same height issue with my newer run Bachmann Mk1 and Mk 2s. I've been told its the tooling used for the coaches. Never considered changing the wheels! Thank you for another wonderful video. Cheers!
Once again both informative and interesting. I look forward to a future video in this series that looks at Kdee couplings, especially carriages and locomotives. Thank you.
Hi Charlie thanks for a really informative video. My problem is that my layout is a bitsa done on a budget using track and rolling stock acquired over many years so getting wagons to stay coupled and on the track can be a nightmare with aesthetics being the least of my problems. Experience has taught me that there are certain combinations of wagons and coaches that run ok together in a rake and others won't so I stick with the combinations that work to minimise derailment issues. I have also found that back to back adjustments are an important part of this equation too. Thanks again and keep them coming.
Very informative, and good ideas. I have some of the Pullman cars Hornby introduced around 2010. The coupling and drawbar system (extension on curves & retraction on straights) caused numerous derailments, so I removed that mechanism from the bogies. I body-mounted Kadee couplers, and of course that didn't work so well. I think the solution is somewhere in this video.
This is why I'm here. Apart from learning about wheels and couplings, those Hornby/extendable drawbar couplings - seemingly only on an odd red coach which isn't marked Hornby - or anything always sticks on corners, and commits suicide. I came here to find the sensible option before experimenting with a Dremel... ;-)
Hi Charlie. One of Everard Junctions videos shows how to raise the bogies on the bachmann mk2 coaches to the same height as the mk1s by making a washer out of 1mm plastic card. Have a look see what you think.
Thanks for the video. I did wonder if you were going to try to fit NEM sockets into your Lima Siphon G. Clearly not. Are you going to do further videos on other couplings such as those supplied with Hornby coaches, which provide quite close coupling and are useful if you are running them in fixed sets? Changing wheels on older stock can produce problems in their own right. I have had to buy a reamer to ream out the bearing socket on some Lima vehicles because when I replaced the wheels with metal ones they wouldn't turn. The other issue I have had with wheel replacement on some vehicles is the metal of the new wheels forming a vertical groove in the plastic of the bogie below the original socket.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks. I certainly value your videos and I will experiment with my Siphons because I don't like the big D couplings of Hornby and Lima. I have changed my standard couplings starting in the 60s when I standardised on Hornby Dublo/Peco. I decided to move to the spring loaded mid-sized D in the 80/90s and moved to the small one. I do like the KayDee but am not prepared to invest in them now.
There is a way to modify Lima couplings that bring them really close. If you snip the 'D' off one and remove the hook, this leaves a lip on where the 'D' was, and then file the drop link on the other to make the hook triangular it looks a lot better when the vehicles are in a set. They go round curves easily too. Best to experiment with a redundant bogie though. There is also a fox for old ex Airfix stock, like the stuff Hornby tarted up before their better mk2s came out.
Great video as always. I have recently made the leap to Kadee couplings for my wagons, but my older coaches and engines with moulded on tension locks are proving much more of a headache. Can't wait to see what you do. I have a number of the old Hornby Gresley teak coaches as I assume many people have and tender driven 4-6-0s.
This has been very informative charlie, I have bought a lima sealion wagon which I swapped the wheels (Allan Gibson from Warley) and the old massive D link couplings, I opted to cut the front area away and superglue in a set of NEM pockets, they work well as far as I can tell. I also have some heljan dogfish wagons which had droopy couplings which fouled on my points, so I did similar chopping off the existing NEM pocket and refitting the bachmann type, they have less lateral movement but they work on my end to end which doesn't have sharp curves. See you in 2 weeks, looking forward to the next video.
Great video as ever Charlie. Have you tried the Bachmann fixed couplings that are sort of dummy vacuum pipes? They are far too long but what I do is cut them in half. Then trim them down and afix a rare earth magnet with superglue. I then fix this to a coach and the spare piece to another coach. Now add a further magnet to the first one, bring the coaches together and trim the second coupling to get a suitable close fit. Put superglue onto the trimmed end and push the vehicles together. Once set they can be parted and you end up with close coupled coaches that can be easily separated.
Wow, that’s a great option Tony but I can’t actually picture the finished item. Can you send some photos to charliebishop @ hotmail . co.uk I’d really appreciate it and could use it too.
Fantastic video Charlie. Let alone the significantly better gap distance, the sheer size of the bulky big D's compared to newer Bachmann ones is just crazy. GWR
Great video, second time I watch this one this time taking notes. Lima 37s and TEA wagons great offenders of large gaps between coupling. So now I feel armed with the information to sort the problem out. Thanks.
I think that real life mk1:'s and mk2's have different heights. Mk1:'s are slighltly higher. Mk 2, 's can run on certain L U L subsurface lines whereas Mk:1's are slightly over-gauge.
Hello Charlie, I have converted all my couplings over to kaydee, great idea, good close-coupling but terrible coupling snag! Problem solved, took all the buffers off because with knuckle couplings, the coupling IS the buffer, just like the rest of the world USA and Canada, New Zealand and Australia , China and a few others use this set-up. Speaking of wheels, I had quite a few Hornby wagons with big wheel flanges and they jumped over everything when it came to points and cross-overs. They were changed to suit standard coupling height otherwise they'll just let go. good videos. You can spend hours looking at Luke Town's videos, the simplest of things like a Radio Control 'OO' Scale land Rover for example. I'm on 'OO/HO' scales (converted to suit layout bit of paint and plastic works wonders) kind regards Wayne McClelland Birkenhead New Zealand
Similar here Wayne, I really like the buck eye couplers and just bought a 25 pair pack of Bachmann EZ couplers to ugrade my kit built stock. i did a quick check of some RTR US freight cars and see they have short shanks but reckon I can cut and extend them to clear the buffers on my UK tanker wagons and some other European freight wagons I am building (Italeri). Anyway, its all a bit of experimentation as I have used alot of 3 links on my Parkside and Cambrian kits so thought I would try something different. Nice video Charlie; I have quite a few Lima coaches I ned to upgrade so always interesting to get some inspiration from your videos 🤗
Hi Charlie, Have you had the opportunity to look at the new Hunt Magnetic couplings just released. If you consider them worthwhile perhaps you could do a video of them. Cheers Greg
Hi Charlie, I've been trying to get my hands on the Kinematic part of the couplings for some of my Bachmann Mk1 coaches I purchased off Ebay in remarkably good condition at a bargain price but minus some of there bogies, I managed to buy the bogies and there wheels, but finding it difficult to source the missing Kinematic Couplings for them, Sorry to say that Bachmann UK are of no help. Any idea where I might find some of these parts? Cheers, Michael.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Well the postage I don't mind, but Peter's Spares say only Bachmann sell those type of items as they do not sell them through spare part dealers like Peter's Spares unfortunately. Thanks anyway... PS. Waiting to see your build of the Station area..😊
Hi Charlie...This is a general inquiry if this is ok........have layed some track to the layout and was wondering a part from the peco track rubber, what else can i use to clean the track hope you don`t mind me asking......also is posable to do a video on N Gauge fitting a point motor thank you,Brian
Always interesting to watch your trials and tribulations Charlie. My policy with 4 mm was to always use a Kadee. Having a vast assortment to find the best one for job always worked for me. Ditto that for fasteners. I have strong dislike of anything Tension lock, but concede they are the cheapest. Regarding gaps between your rakes of coaches, you can easily fabricate your own corridor connections using Black polystyrene and folded black paper, this will eliminate all those gaps and improve appearance. regards
Another informative video .I have resorted to replacing all my couplings with Kadee's and rewheeled .Expensive but worth the effort. My best wishes to Ray and his family.
Hey Charlie lots of food for thought there. On the subject of wheels etc I'm in the process of fitting 2mm brass cup/top hat bearings to my rolling stock. What a difference! Provided you use wheels with metal axles, metal to metal + a little oil = very little resistance. Less wear on you locos motor an longer trains! Take care, Terry.
@@ChadwickModelRailway yes Charlie, they are standard Hornby metal disc type axles and wheels, I've never experienced a short with these type of wheels. I found a really clever little device in Model Rail magazine to make the job easy.
Hi Charlie. I’ve bought some diesel locos off eBay. Most are missing couplings in some form. Either missing the hook or the d ring. Do you have any videos on how to replace missing coupling hooks or d rings, thanks.
Charlie interesting video. With regards to,the old hornby/Lima wagons replacing the Vivek holding the bogie to the chassis with a nut and bolt will greatly reduce the sideways wobble. One point however is that buffer lock is not when buffers touch but when 2 adjacent vehicles travel around a curve in one direction and then immediately curve in the opposite direction and one buffer gets trapped behind the adjacent coupling this can be an issue both in real life as well as on a model.
Anyone had any experience with Walthers life-like wagon couplings? All my locos are the standard old lima/hornby hook coupling and I just acquired some Walthers tank cars only to find they have awesome looking couplers on them but I have no way to couple them to my locos. When I bought them the seller said they have NEM pockets on so I bought a bag full of NEM hook couplers and off home I went. Only I find they are not NEM they are built into the actual bogie. I guess I'll have to take them back, sad as they are great looking tank cars.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I couldn't find any info on the particular cars I have but they don't have screw in couplings like on kadee website for conversion kits, they are crappy plastic Talgo snap in bogies ("trucks" as Americans call them) and the couplings themselves have a hole in them which fits over a plastic pole that is moulded into the bogie. The only part that removes is the coupling itself. In the end I removed them, took some NEM pocket hornby couplings and glued them in but even that hasn't worked, the plastic isn't bonding so looks like I'll have to resort to epoxy.
The funny thing is, in continental Europe, we don't really have this sort of problem (well at least not with German models), because almost all of our H0 gauge locos and rolling stock come with the kinematic mechanisms + NEM pockets fitted nowadays, except for a few engines. So all you have to do to improve space between vehicles over here is to take off the standard couplings, pop any form of short coupling into the NEM pockets and you can be off. Britain seems to be a bit behind in those regards, especially when it comes to standardising the NEM pocket height and position; nearly every manufacturer seems to do it in their own way... Another problem with not having the kinematic mechanisms is that you can't use "fixed" short couplings such as the Fleischmann Profi or the Roco/Hornby ones (you know, the "real" short couplings which provide a fixed connection within two of them being coupled together). I tried that once with a Bachmann 7-plank truck and brake van. Those weren't able to manage any type of curve at all, because the buffers were positively clenched together alright (as indeed they should be), but the lack of kinematic mechanism forced them to stay together straight like that.
Hi Charlie, I found the video very interesting and informative. You are 100% correct in your pronunciation of Kadee (Kay-Dee) couplers. You probably know the back story on how the company received it's name. For those who do not, The company is named using the initials of the twin brothers, Keith and Dale Edwards, i.e. K And D Edwards adding an additional "e" for the phonetic pronunciation of the letter "D". Here in the States the Kadee coupler has become the defacto standard for HO Scale trains replacing the NMRA X2F coupler. Keith Edwards later went on to create the Micro-Trains company and their coupler has become the defacto standard for N scale trains, replacing the Rapido N scale coupler. In the early years of HO scale, there was a division between body mounting and truck (bogie) mounting couplers. Modelers today prefer body mounting the couplers as the forces applied to the rolling stock when backing a train, are not placed on the trucks (bogies) allowing them to swing freely. This movement is now gaining traction in the N scale community here in the States. A couple of question, are OO modelers in the UK continuing to use the "D" type coupling for modern rolling stock, or have folks begun making the transition to Kadee or Kadee compatible couplers? Here in the States when two pieces of rolling stock are semi-permanently attached, we call the coupling piece a "Draw Bar". The two flexible pieces between your coaches that surround the end doors, here in the States are known as Diaphragms. Do these pieces have the same name in the UK? I do enjoy learning things about railways and model railways from around the world and I find your videos very informative. Cheers, Rich S.
Hi Charlie - a very Happy New Year to you and your family. Firstly, if I've missed something obvious in amongst your episodes, my sincere apologies - but I'm trying to find if you've covered replacing D couplings with NEM couplings anywhere, as I'd like to replace my Hornby freightliner wagon couplings with something much better. Thank you and take care. Jeff
Hi Geoff, in the “show more” tab, there is a link which will take you through to Hunt Couplings, also known as West Hill Wagon Works. Then navigate their website and you will find some suitable couplings. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie a great video mate great information on coaches and wagons coupling I had to replace the coupling on my oxfordrail mk3a fo/tso to kds coupling because I found the oxfordrail coupling where to fragile I put the kds coupling no the coaches I chassis and it worked mate I have 4 trains of oxfordrail mk3a fo/tso/frb I also upgrade my old hornby freightliner flats with scratch building boxs brake pipes air tanks and brake wheels buffers and fox transfer of freightliner wagons clive
Fantastic video once again . A while ago u did a video on the nem s and I think it was a load of instantar couplings from shapeways ,think it was .are the still any good on the wagons u were testing them on . ?.also thank u for so many great ideas
Another superb and informative video. I don't know whether you know but you can buy Nylon M2 nuts and bolts in black, might save you a bit of painting and also easier to trim. Frank
21:30 Could you not use something like a piece of bicycle inner tube to join the two together to completely close that gap? The black expandable part I mean? I hope that makes sense 🙈👍
Great video really informative. I was wondering if in a future video you could cover how to install KD couplings to stock both with and without a NEM pocket fitted?
I am a complete newbie having inherited a substantial layout and now in the process of deciding to keep or not. One question on your video what is part numbers of the tension locks from Bachmann as the rolling stock I have are either missing some couplings or are home made would like to make them all the same
I just wanted to say thanks for the help you have given me. I have dementia and sometimes I need to ask questions more than ones, especially about Digitrax. Please let me know if my questions are ok to ask so much?
May I humbly suggest you treat yourself to a rerailer,I model in N gauge and would be lost without mine. I look forward to episode 2 as I any looking for a replacement for the great big lump of plastic that is the standard coupling in N gauge.
Well, what can I say? I have done this sort of thing and gone in the rabbit hole never to return! I am sure you are a much, much better mechanical engineer than me. I think I will stick to my electrical engineering and not try to modify couplers. 🤔 Great video as usual maestro!
Appreciate this is an old video, but I went back and watched it along with the other 2 coupling videos you did to support it. I'm still debating how to uncouple locos from my fixed rakes of stock, which are all magentically couplued using 3D printed couplings made to look like vacuum hoses with 2 magents so the coaches and wagons can be coupled either way around. The reason for my commenting now, is I recently purchase a rake of 3 Hornby newspaper vans, and to my horror, when they arrived, they have the old Lima moulded large D tension hook couplings, not an NEM pocket in site. Simply unbelievable in 2024 that Hornby think it acceptable to do this. These vans are not even sold as Railroad range and retail at over £45 each.
Very interesting to me. I have no experience with OO scale, but recently built a garden layout in A scale, (G gauge). The coupler situation in large scale is horrendous, with truck-mounted, talgo-style hook and loop couplers being the norm. Even replacement knuckles are truck-mounted and too low. Major body work can be required to fix this. But, as they are wont to say: "It's all part of the fun of model railroading!" Best wishes to Ray, too.
Charlie, as always brilliant. The very best to Ray and his family. Couplings, heights, wheel sets, and gaps. Sounds like something that Cher might sing about, (gypsies, tramps and thieves) the variations between manufacturers is stunning, and all of my stock (I am new to this) is purchased post 2016... I use Kadee couplings thought it would simplify things.. hmmm. Ahh well I wanted a challenging hobby. Best regards.
Charlie Lima points with fitted point motors DC layout I want to do a large sidings to my layout for cleaning carriages as was located in old Rutherglen.I have picked up a load of second hand ones all fitted with Lima motors Heres the question How are these wired back to the DC controller, or can you put me in the direction regards Will
Thanks for the great tutorial, this is one area that I am still puzzling over. I have already re-wheeled at least 90% of my stock so that is not a problem though I am happy to stick with code 100 rail as some of my locomotives would also have problems on 75. My conundrum is whether to stick with tension lock and just change out some of the larger old style ones or go for something completely different.
This is my dilemma. I inherited a lot of Palitoy Mainline rolling stock from my father which whilst not up to modern standards are passable models, I am changing the wheels but I think laziness will make me keep the tension lock couplings. I do however often have a problem with the different styles of tension lock couplings.
@@philnewstead5388 I think the Mainline rolling stock was very nice, much better than Hornby of the day. I do have some myself and Bachmann are still using some of it in their current range. Their couplings are a bit smaller as well and seem to work quite well for tension locks and of course Bachmann still make those as well which are good replacements for the larger Tri-ang Hornby ones. The only real downside to Mainline was the split chassis locomotives, the body detailing was great again for the day.
Rob Arnold to be honest I'm moving the locos on as not only are the split cassis locos a night mare to convert to DCC they don't run that well and occasionally they blow the chips. I did get in touch with Bachmann and they said it was possible to change the chassis for more modern DCC compatible chassis but they will not supply a complete chassis. I agree that the Bachmann models were a quantum leap ahead of Hornby who basically had a monopoly at the time and were quite complacent and I think it would be fair to say Palitoy are probably responsible for where the industry is today.
Hi Charlie your mk 2 coach fit a 1mm plastic card shim with a hole in the middle between bogie and chassis this will bring it up to the correct height with your MK1 stock
Great video! Can you link the Bachmann couplings (both types)? I'm in the states so a little difficult getting parts as an 00 modeler. Oh and the wheel sets too. Thanks!
Hi Charlie. I have some very old hornby crimson and cream coaches with some awful couplings that are riveted on. Do you have any advice for how I could replace them?? Thanks
Great stuff again Charlie. Looking forward to hearing about KayDee's and the trials of getting the right heights and lengths for NEM pockets and also converting old tension locks to Kay Dee, installing magnets for uncoupling, etc etc! On another track (:-)), how do you keep all your stuff running? Is there a video to do on cleaning track, loco wheels, lubrication, etc perhaps?
I think a question we all should ask is. What is the gap in really life between the two wagons? As we all can guess a bar coupling, as on freightliner inner wagons is fixed.
Thank you for a great and informative video you are quite right couplings can be a nightmare it would be good if there was a standard for all couplings on my Bachmann and later Hornby coaches I use the pipe type coupling which on rakes work vey well indeed thank for showing us how you modified the Lima type coupling to nem I will definitely do the same to my Lima wagons and coaches Kind Regards Martin
Hi Charlie, i think the kits you where after for the Freightliner wagons are from S kits, 16 Barrow Road, Sileby, Loughborough, Leicestershire LE12 7LP . If you get a kit i would be very interested in a video on the use of the kits.
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Hi Charleigh,
Again, your videos are very interesting to watch, as I'm in a hospital in France .
I am able to watch more without to many interruptions.
Just brilliant.
Alan
Thanks Alan, it’s great to have you on board. Hopefully your stay in hospital won’t be too long. Regards, Charlie.
For arran and Ray this means the world so I'd like to say thank you for the shout out, you've helped me believe in human kindness
That’s very nice of you to say so. Regards Charlie.
Great video, once again. I have so much to learn about model railroading. I'm thankful for people like you Charlie, that take the time to teach others. Thanks! I too want to shout out to Ray and his family and send words of encouragement to them, that they may have peace in their hearts.
Thanks Crystal, you’re very thoughtful.
Hello Charlie
Thanks for saying hello to dad and for the amazing comments from the fellow modellers in here.
Mum and dad had a bit of a tear in their eye when they watched the video
We had a fun running session straight after we finished watching it and it was the best two hours. I’d love to show you photos of his layout so you can see how much we have learned from you channel and what we were able to put into practice
And again thanks to everyone for their wonderful comments and well wishes for dad, it means the world to my family
Cheers
Aaron
Hi Aaron, I’m so pleased that your family liked the “Shoutout”.
The comments from fellow modellers show what an understanding community we have.
Good luck and do keep in touch.
Regards Charlie.
Chadwick Model Railway thank you mate. You are the best !
Chadwick Model Railway hello mate, my dad has asked for your address. He has a special thank you gift for you. Dad worked at the south Maitland railways and was probably the last man standing that could repair the smr 10 class locos. He is well respected in the steam loco industry
Hi Aaron, I’d rather not put my address in a public forum. However, if you email me at charliebishop @ hotmail . co. uk I’ll gladly send it.
Please make sure that you keep a lid on your Dad’s generosity.
Regards Charlie
It still amazes me at how many different couplers you guys have for OO scale; over here in the states, HO scale is the most popular, but we really only have two different couplers; X2F (the older “horn hook”) couplers, or Kadee compatible knuckle couplers. The only other option is NEM couplings on Marklin models, which isn’t seen that much. There used to be an adapter coupling that would work with both X2F and Kadee couplers, but I haven’t seen those in my local hobby shop in decades. The same thing is true for N scale; we either have the old Arnold couplers, or the newer MicroTrains knuckle couplers. I can’t speak to Z, S, or O scale, as I don’t have any. Of course, some cars or locomotives have a drawbar if they’re intended to be permanently coupled, but this isn’t the norm except on auto racks, passenger trainsets, or TOFC/COFC wagons, which often have three or five wagons per “car”.
I couldn’t agree more William, it’s a nightmare. Regards, Charlie.
Hello Charlie,, great videos, love watching about 4pm with a dry Martini !! I am 74 and starting at model railways after 40 years I guess to build a layout for my grandson ! I am building an N guage which is nearly complete but has driven me mad, especially the rail joiners ! So now am looking at an OO guage layout on a large L shape baseboard,, much more satisfying ! Thx for keeping my spirits up at the end of a day when it has not gone well !! Keep up the great work Charlie,, much appreciated
What a heartwarming comment Gerry, and good luck with your layout. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, I replace my couplings in a similar fashion as you describe, but rather than use M2 nuts and bolts, I use self-tapping screws salvaged from audio cassettes. They fit a treat, and are often blackened, saving yet another job. If you don't have any unwanted cassettes, charity shops sell them for next to nothing or often give them away. Very useful for other modelling jobs too.
Thanks Ted, what a great tip.
Can you do a video on how to fit 3 link couplings on old rolling stock and wagons? Would be really helpful as I am attempting to make a layout and the drop link couplings on my older wagons are a bit noticeable.
Cheers,
Samuel :D
Great suggestion Samuel but don't have them at Chadwick.
Charlie: You do an excellent job of explaining what and why you are doing. This is what makes what you do applicable to other gauges. I have been dealing with coupler issues. My rolling stock and locomotives span a number of years, The coupler wars resolved them seizes and the industry settled on micro trains coolers (this is only N scale). So a number of my cars and rolling stock have Ravarossi paddle couplers but most of my locomotives have micro trains couplers. Rolling stock is not as big of an issue but passenger cars require replacing the truck. This is a project that will take time an money. So what one does is making a transition car of a RPO. That is for 4 different road name passenger trains. Long story short is that the issues you are discussing relate to other scales. The issue of track radius is one of the issues that separate model railroading from toy trains. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to your next episode.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Ken and that it’s useful to other gauges.
OMG it's the wheel flanges! That noise has been frustrating me so much. Now to find replacements for n gauge.
Thank you Charlie, keep up the great work
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Stephen.
Hi Charlie, Thanks for your plain speaking and clear videos they are a great watch. Like you I hate the horrible looking tension lock coupling, it is banished from my railway with just a couple of exceptions. I am a fan of the magnetic couplings for all of my passenger stock. From time to time I like to run my old Hornby Dublo stock and find their old buckeye coupling much more to my liking. My freight stock is all Hornby Dublo or Wrenn and I have removed the huge tension lock couplings and replaced them with either the Hornby Dublo type or a magnetic type that then gives me the coupling converter wagons to allow my modern loco's to haul the older wagons. I definitely prefer the magnetic type for fixed rakes of coaches, they look and work much better with constant tight gaps between vehicles whether pulling or propelling.
Thanks again
Mark
Many thanks Mark, we clearly sing from the same song sheet on this one. Regards, Charlie.
Morning Charlie
Nice video about the couplings, I have a good collection of the old Container wagons, I've replaced most of the wheel sets which I got from Alan Gibson "Bulk Buy", would be interesting to see how you did the couplings on them,
Regards Mick
It will be in the Kadee episode Mick.
@@ChadwickModelRailway
Nice one 👍
Hi Charlie - just a thought with regard to the letter you read out from Aron at the start.... There is a way of running DC and DCC on the same layout, which is what I do having a mix of both DC and DCC locos. Provided the layout is wired for DC (which is the only way I know!), one can then use Bachmann's earlier "EZ Mate" controllers (NOT the later Dynamis full digital). The EZ DC controller can be plugged in series into the EZ DCC controller - the latter has a dedicated jack socket labelled "From DC Controller". Both controllers are fed from the same mains transformer plugged into the DCC controller and there is just one set of wires to the track feeds, again from the DCC unit.
Then it is entirely possible to run DC locos and DCC locos on the same track section at the same time. It's just a good idea to ensure that DC locos are not sitting for long periods on track sections with a live DCC feed, hence the need to wire the layout with sections that can be isolated, either with toggle switches or using the points / turnouts to isolate sections. It's quite fun - and quite a challenge - to run long trains double-headed with a banker at the rear, 2 locos being separately coded DCC locos and the third being DC. This means all 3 locos have to be "driven" separately - 2 using the DCC controler and the third using the DC controller! I'm not sure that this can be done with other DCC / DC controller combinations.
Well that's news to me, I had never realised that it was possible and I doubt if many folks are aware of this. Regards Charlie
The spv parcels vans, the one with nem couplings is either the new Hornby tooling or a parkside kit as Bachmann do not produce the spv x blue spot van fits.
Thanks Greg, I’ll check it out.
@@ChadwickModelRailway also re your comment on the Bachmann Mk2 vs Mk1 roof height, this also spplies to there Mk1s ... for instance Mk1s fitted with B1 & commonwealth bogies buffers & roofs line up but ones fitted with B4 or X LNER bogies do not, yes they do look odd must be a tooling mistake in the height of the bogie with relation to underframe of coach, Im not sure but I think they retooled the B4 bogie for the new ac Mk2 fs
Another excellent tutorial and explanation of types of couplings. Hats off to you Charlie for bringing us this.
Thanks Anthony, you’re too kind
Absolute brilliant video Charlie. I cannot thank you enough for all the help and assistance your videos give to us all.
Cheers
Brian
Thanks Brian, it’s comments such as yours that make it worthwhile.
Cheers Charlie for another informative and interesting video. A credit to you for taking the time to do these mini productions and sharing your hints and tips etc. It goes to show what an impact one person can make on peoples lives. The example is, that Ray and his family found a way to overcome the stresses of ill health, and I wish the family many hours of joy together from this hobby of ours.
Thanks John, it’s all too easy to get caught up with our busy lives without realising that our autumn years have arrived.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Yes indeed Charlie, as I haven't worked in 8-9 years now because of what happened to me. I am 54 now (golden years) and do my best to enjoy life but it is not hard to get oneself stressed and depressed. I feel lucky in away that this hobby helps me to focus and forget my troubled mind. People like yourself that make these little info films brings me great joy to watch and I appreciate all the work that goes into the production of them. So THANK YOU Charlie for doing them, the funny errors that you keep in (very entertaining) help to keep it light hearted. Cheers for sharing all the wonderful moments of hints, tips, info and gags along the way. Maybe you should do a Bloopers Reel too LOL.
If only you new how many re-takes I have to do!
@@ChadwickModelRailway Oh then you will have to do a bloopers reel after each video as an ending for giggles to laugh with you..
Charlie your heartfelt shout-out to Ray was well done, and sincere. Bless you for trying to bring some joy into the life of a fellow human being who finds himself trapped in a terrible and frightening situation.
On a happier note you may have noticed that RUclips has my name as Ernest, yet I sign as Ken and you may have wondered why.That is because my full name is Ernest Kenneth May. My Family and friends always called me Ken and so that is the version of my name that stuck . For official purposes I always sign using Ernest, but for common nonofficial purposes I use Ken. Feel free to use either as you prefer.
Again bless you for what you did for Ray. Best Regards, Ken
Hi Ken, I'm so pleased that you enjoy my channel and your remark regarding Ray is much appreciated.
Hi Charlie.. bits and bobs, always makes me chuckle.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Jim.
Great video as always Charlie. I couldn't help noticing on your Mk 2 and Mk 1 restaurant that you have what look like Keen system buck eyes on there? I used to work with Roger Keen before he retired. Most of my fixed rakes of coaches including my Flying Scotsman set, Silver Jubilee set, Pullmans and London to Perth car carriers have these on. I have been to many exhibitions with him selling his products, I agree with you when you say these type of couplings give an extremely real look. If you reduce the Nem pocket, you can, with a bit fiddling get the buffers to touch, and if you put Rogers floating end plates on, you can get you corridor connectors to actually touch with no fouling round bends. I will send you some pictures of my rakes with these on, they look amazing.
Thanks Nigel, I do find that they can become somewhat problematic and the coaches need to be in a certain order to stay together.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I found that to start with, a bit of tinkering and as long as you are not going to marshal your rakes and they will stay as a rake, I find them fine. I have kit built a lot of my coaches and found that Tony Wrights version of a brass wire hook and loop along with fuse wire to represent the vacuum pipes look amazing.
Great shout out Charlie. Your an inspiration in your own way. Keep up the great work👍
Thanks Andrew, you’re too kind
Another great video Charlie,
I've used Roco couplings on my passenger and parcels stock, with 2 different versions those from Hornby with a slightly longer shank, and genuine Roco's with a slightly shorter shank. On Bachmann Mk 1's after filing the underside of the draw bar beams later the Hornby Roco's will give an instant close coupling with corridor bellows connectors actually touching each other, GUV's also have a very realistic coupling effect with the Hornby Roco's. Some stock such as Hornby's Collets, Maunsell rebuilds and Bachmann's SECR Birdcage rhave required a mix of Genuine and Hornby Roco's.
On Older stock which don't have what you call "Kinetic" couplings which act on a cam basis, I've cut a hole in the floor and inserted Symoba couplings which are also cam action. Having tried unsuccessfully to use Keen couplings on Mainline/Bachmann Collet coaches I've used the Symoba's very successfully with a mix as appropriate to achieve realistic coupling. The Symoba's use a cam action post on a small almost square base, NEM pockets are the fitted on the posts, the pockets are available in different sizes to suit required results. With the different Roco's and Pockets a great deal of variation can be achieved, I have a photo showing the variations which I'd upload here if I knew how. However here's a link to doing the same to Bachmanns old Bulleid stock;
southernregionmodels.wordpress.com/rolling-stock/25-2/
What a great comment EAW.
I do hope that other folks find it useful too. Regards Charlie
well done mate im sure i can speak for us all we all gain inspiration from your videos keep up the great work and your shout out brought a lump to my throat
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it and found it emotional.
Brilliant video Charlie a topic which is not very often covered, very informative. Thank you
Thanks Andrew you’re too kind.
Hi Charlie - Very informative video and I have been going through my rolling stock changing over any plastic wheels to metal and will now look at the couplings. Also best wishes to Ray and his family this is a great hobby of ours that gives so much enjoyment to lots of people. Cheers Kev
Such true words Kev, many thanks
Another very useful and informative video, thank you Charlie!
Now I can go ahead and fiddle around with my old Hornby cement wagons to improve the couplings...
And hopefully they will stay coupled.
Another great video, Charlie, and thank you for posting. My layout is end to end, so all stock faces the same way. I put spot of correcting fluid underneath to check I have the item facing the right way. All my stock uses Kadees. With NEM pockets, I use an 18 at one end of the vehicle and a 19 at the other end. This gives me closer coupling on Radius 2, but not the buffer lock. With older stock, there's a fair amount of 'cosmetic surgery' and the Kadee 5 unit.
The next episode is for you!
@@ChadwickModelRailway I'm looking forward to it!
Well explained video on the subject of couplings. You certainly have the knack of making the mundane sound interesting!! Cheers Euan
Thanks Euan, you’re too kind
Hi Charlie thumbs up for a great part 1 tutorial. Gives me some ideas for changing couplings on my rolling stock.
With regards to corridor connections I have got hold packs of folding paper corridor connections off that well known auction to replace the rigid plastic ones. Regards Gary.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Gary
First class Charlie....
Indeed, I replaced a whole rake of Lima hst executive coaches with 'peters spares' small flange wheels for code 75 and coupled them with Bachmann pipe couplers and the transformation is superb. Buffers are chopped off though to prevent locking but the mk 3s didn't have them on the hst rakes. £6 per coach plus laserglaze windows (£11) , NEM pockets....7 coaches, ...jeeez...
I totally agree PJ. The lengths that we go to are extreme.
Good day Charlie, I have the same height issue with my newer run Bachmann Mk1 and Mk 2s. I've been told its the tooling used for the coaches. Never considered changing the wheels! Thank you for another wonderful video.
Cheers!
Thanks Alex, you’re too kind
Once again both informative and interesting. I look forward to a future video in this series that looks at Kdee couplings, especially carriages and locomotives. Thank you.
Kadee’s are next in this series Peter.
Thank you Charlie for another great video. I was very touched by your first comments.
Very emotional but pleasing that Ray has found our hobby comforting.
Kadee should hire you to do their videos. I have learned so much from you. Outstanding job!!!
Thanks Tony, that’s most kind.
Regards Charlie
Excellent! I have have some Lima stuff with those dreadful couplings and am trying to fit Kadees to them..... watch this space!
Good luck TJ
Hi Charlie thanks for a really informative video. My problem is that my layout is a bitsa done on a budget using track and rolling stock acquired over many years so getting wagons to stay coupled and on the track can be a nightmare with aesthetics being the least of my problems. Experience has taught me that there are certain combinations of wagons and coaches that run ok together in a rake and others won't so I stick with the combinations that work to minimise derailment issues. I have also found that back to back adjustments are an important part of this equation too. Thanks again and keep them coming.
Thanks Phil, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it
Very informative, and good ideas.
I have some of the Pullman cars Hornby introduced around 2010. The coupling and drawbar system (extension on curves & retraction on straights) caused numerous derailments, so I removed that mechanism from the bogies. I body-mounted Kadee couplers, and of course that didn't work so well. I think the solution is somewhere in this video.
Don’t do anything drastic just yet as I’m still exploring options.
This is why I'm here. Apart from learning about wheels and couplings, those Hornby/extendable drawbar couplings - seemingly only on an odd red coach which isn't marked Hornby - or anything always sticks on corners, and commits suicide. I came here to find the sensible option before experimenting with a Dremel... ;-)
Hi Charlie. One of Everard Junctions videos shows how to raise the bogies on the bachmann mk2 coaches to the same height as the mk1s by making a washer out of 1mm plastic card. Have a look see what you think.
A great reminder CPC
Great introduction. Looking forward to your thoughts on couplings for shunting layouts.
The answer will be in the next video Pat.
Thanks for the video. I did wonder if you were going to try to fit NEM sockets into your Lima Siphon G. Clearly not. Are you going to do further videos on other couplings such as those supplied with Hornby coaches, which provide quite close coupling and are useful if you are running them in fixed sets? Changing wheels on older stock can produce problems in their own right. I have had to buy a reamer to ream out the bearing socket on some Lima vehicles because when I replaced the wheels with metal ones they wouldn't turn. The other issue I have had with wheel replacement on some vehicles is the metal of the new wheels forming a vertical groove in the plastic of the bogie below the original socket.
Hi Don, the Lima wheel axels are a different length hence your problem.
I will certainly move on to Hornby coaches but next time it’s Kadee’s.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Thanks. I certainly value your videos and I will experiment with my Siphons because I don't like the big D couplings of Hornby and Lima. I have changed my standard couplings starting in the 60s when I standardised on Hornby Dublo/Peco. I decided to move to the spring loaded mid-sized D in the 80/90s and moved to the small one. I do like the KayDee but am not prepared to invest in them now.
There is a way to modify Lima couplings that bring them really close. If you snip the 'D' off one and remove the hook, this leaves a lip on where the 'D' was, and then file the drop link on the other to make the hook triangular it looks a lot better when the vehicles are in a set. They go round curves easily too. Best to experiment with a redundant bogie though. There is also a fox for old ex Airfix stock, like the stuff Hornby tarted up before their better mk2s came out.
Thanks DJ, great info mate.
wow, there is a lot to think about with couplers, I surely didnt think about half of these things. thanks for the video
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Joe.
What a brilliant opening, Charlie. Very interesting.
Thanks Nigel, still shocking though.
Great video as always. I have recently made the leap to Kadee couplings for my wagons, but my older coaches and engines with moulded on tension locks are proving much more of a headache. Can't wait to see what you do. I have a number of the old Hornby Gresley teak coaches as I assume many people have and tender driven 4-6-0s.
correction: 4-6-2s
Rest assured Kadee’s are next.
This has been very informative charlie, I have bought a lima sealion wagon which I swapped the wheels (Allan Gibson from Warley) and the old massive D link couplings, I opted to cut the front area away and superglue in a set of NEM pockets, they work well as far as I can tell.
I also have some heljan dogfish wagons which had droopy couplings which fouled on my points, so I did similar chopping off the existing NEM pocket and refitting the bachmann type, they have less lateral movement but they work on my end to end which doesn't have sharp curves.
See you in 2 weeks, looking forward to the next video.
Thanks Alex, I’ll certainly check out your methodology.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I did a video on replacing the dogfish couplings.
ruclips.net/video/Rkkqa_3eCbc/видео.html
Hi again Charlie - 2 videos in one night for me! Thank you - looking forward to Ep 2. And - you're a top bloke - well played sir!
Don’t OD on this channel Darryl.
Great video as ever Charlie. Have you tried the Bachmann fixed couplings that are sort of dummy vacuum pipes? They are far too long but what I do is cut them in half. Then trim them down and afix a rare earth magnet with superglue. I then fix this to a coach and the spare piece to another coach. Now add a further magnet to the first one, bring the coaches together and trim the second coupling to get a suitable close fit. Put superglue onto the trimmed end and push the vehicles together. Once set they can be parted and you end up with close coupled coaches that can be easily separated.
Wow, that’s a great option Tony but I can’t actually picture the finished item.
Can you send some photos to charliebishop @ hotmail . co.uk
I’d really appreciate it and could use it too.
Hi Tony, I'm having trouble gluing the magnets to the vacuum pipes. Can you tell me exactly which glue you used? Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie, I use Deluxe Materials Roket MAX Thick Superglue. In fact, I use it almost exclusively.
Thanks for such a rapid response Tony.
Fantastic video Charlie.
Let alone the significantly better gap distance, the sheer size of the bulky big D's compared to newer Bachmann ones is just crazy. GWR
Thanks CG, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it.
Great video, second time I watch this one this time taking notes.
Lima 37s and TEA wagons great offenders of large gaps between coupling. So now I feel armed with the information to sort the problem out.
Thanks.
I'm so pleased that you found it interesting Corin.
Hi Charlie. Looking at your mk1 & mk2 together, it looks kid the roof height profile is the difference.
I know what you mean Chris but the door steps are out too.
The panelling lines look equal which I would consider more important.
I think that real life mk1:'s and mk2's have different heights. Mk1:'s are slighltly higher. Mk 2,
's can run on certain L U L subsurface lines whereas Mk:1's are slightly over-gauge.
Hello Charlie, I have converted all my couplings over to kaydee, great idea, good close-coupling but terrible coupling snag! Problem solved, took all the buffers off because with knuckle couplings, the coupling IS the buffer, just like the rest of the world USA and Canada, New Zealand and Australia , China and a few others use this set-up.
Speaking of wheels, I had quite a few Hornby wagons with big wheel flanges and they jumped over everything when it came to points and cross-overs. They were changed to suit standard coupling height otherwise they'll just let go.
good videos. You can spend hours looking at Luke Town's videos, the simplest of things like a Radio Control 'OO' Scale land Rover for example.
I'm on 'OO/HO' scales (converted to suit layout bit of paint and plastic works wonders)
kind regards
Wayne McClelland
Birkenhead
New Zealand
What a heart warming comment Wayne. Stay safe. Regards Charlie
Similar here Wayne, I really like the buck eye couplers and just bought a 25 pair pack of Bachmann EZ couplers to ugrade my kit built stock. i did a quick check of some RTR US freight cars and see they have short shanks but reckon I can cut and extend them to clear the buffers on my UK tanker wagons and some other European freight wagons I am building (Italeri). Anyway, its all a bit of experimentation as I have used alot of 3 links on my Parkside and Cambrian kits so thought I would try something different. Nice video Charlie; I have quite a few Lima coaches I ned to upgrade so always interesting to get some inspiration from your videos 🤗
Hi Charlie, Have you had the opportunity to look at the new Hunt Magnetic couplings just released. If you consider them worthwhile perhaps you could do a video of them. Cheers Greg
Yes, I'll include them in "Couplings 3" Greg.
I’m using the Bachmann pipe couplings as intermediates in my two MK1 and one MK2 rakes. What should I use for the ends?
I would use Kadee’s. Regards Charlie
Hi Charlie,
I've been trying to get my hands on the Kinematic part of the couplings for some of my Bachmann Mk1 coaches I purchased off Ebay in remarkably good condition at a bargain price but minus some of there bogies, I managed to buy the bogies and there wheels, but finding it difficult to source the missing Kinematic Couplings for them, Sorry to say that Bachmann UK are of no help.
Any idea where I might find some of these parts?
Cheers,
Michael.
The only dealer I can think of is Peters spares. Although, their postage is rather expensive. Regards, Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway Well the postage I don't mind, but Peter's Spares say only Bachmann sell those type of items as they do not sell them through spare part dealers like Peter's Spares unfortunately. Thanks anyway...
PS. Waiting to see your build of the Station area..😊
Hi Charlie...This is a general inquiry if this is ok........have layed some track to the layout and was wondering a part from the peco track rubber, what else can i use to clean the track hope you don`t mind me asking......also is posable to do a video on N Gauge fitting a point motor thank you,Brian
Hi Brian, the Peco track rubber is all that I have ever used.
Sadly I have no N Gauge so I can’t help on that front.
ok thank you anyway, thats ok about the N Gauge
Always interesting to watch your trials and tribulations Charlie. My policy with 4 mm was to always use a Kadee. Having a vast assortment to find the best one for job always worked for me. Ditto that for fasteners. I have strong dislike of anything Tension lock, but concede they are the cheapest. Regarding gaps between your rakes of coaches, you can easily fabricate your own corridor connections using Black polystyrene and folded black paper, this will eliminate all those gaps and improve appearance. regards
Long live the Kadee!
The next episode will reveal all!
Another informative video .I have resorted to replacing all my couplings with Kadee's and rewheeled .Expensive but worth the effort. My best wishes to Ray and his family.
Thanks very kind David
Great Video charlie I too am a relative beginner its answered some problem i have with my trucks and coaches
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Dave
Hey Charlie lots of food for thought there. On the subject of wheels etc I'm in the process of fitting 2mm brass cup/top hat bearings to my rolling stock. What a difference! Provided you use wheels with metal axles, metal to metal + a little oil = very little resistance. Less wear on you locos motor an longer trains! Take care, Terry.
A very interesting point Terry. I take it there are insulators in the wheel centres?
@@ChadwickModelRailway yes Charlie, they are standard Hornby metal disc type axles and wheels, I've never experienced a short with these type of wheels. I found a really clever little device in Model Rail magazine to make the job easy.
Hi Charlie. I’ve bought some diesel locos off eBay. Most are missing couplings in some form. Either missing the hook or the d ring. Do you have any videos on how to replace missing coupling hooks or d rings, thanks.
Hi Johnny, I have produced a series of 3 videos on couplings. Perhaps there might be something there of use.
Everard Junction did a video on the Bachmann Mk1 and Mk2 height issue. I think his solution was adding a shim to the Mk2 bogie
Thanks James, I’ll check it out.
To save some time, its How to video 22 detailing passenger stock
Great, thanks James.
Charlie interesting video. With regards to,the old hornby/Lima wagons replacing the Vivek holding the bogie to the chassis with a nut and bolt will greatly reduce the sideways wobble. One point however is that buffer lock is not when buffers touch but when 2 adjacent vehicles travel around a curve in one direction and then immediately curve in the opposite direction and one buffer gets trapped behind the adjacent coupling this can be an issue both in real life as well as on a model.
An interesting point Gary.
Anyone had any experience with Walthers life-like wagon couplings? All my locos are the standard old lima/hornby hook coupling and I just acquired some Walthers tank cars only to find they have awesome looking couplers on them but I have no way to couple them to my locos. When I bought them the seller said they have NEM pockets on so I bought a bag full of NEM hook couplers and off home I went. Only I find they are not NEM they are built into the actual bogie.
I guess I'll have to take them back, sad as they are great looking tank cars.
Unless you can convert them to Kadee’s.
Regards Charlie
@@ChadwickModelRailway I couldn't find any info on the particular cars I have but they don't have screw in couplings like on kadee website for conversion kits, they are crappy plastic Talgo snap in bogies ("trucks" as Americans call them) and the couplings themselves have a hole in them which fits over a plastic pole that is moulded into the bogie. The only part that removes is the coupling itself. In the end I removed them, took some NEM pocket hornby couplings and glued them in but even that hasn't worked, the plastic isn't bonding so looks like I'll have to resort to epoxy.
The funny thing is, in continental Europe, we don't really have this sort of problem (well at least not with German models), because almost all of our H0 gauge locos and rolling stock come with the kinematic mechanisms + NEM pockets fitted nowadays, except for a few engines. So all you have to do to improve space between vehicles over here is to take off the standard couplings, pop any form of short coupling into the NEM pockets and you can be off. Britain seems to be a bit behind in those regards, especially when it comes to standardising the NEM pocket height and position; nearly every manufacturer seems to do it in their own way...
Another problem with not having the kinematic mechanisms is that you can't use "fixed" short couplings such as the Fleischmann Profi or the Roco/Hornby ones (you know, the "real" short couplings which provide a fixed connection within two of them being coupled together).
I tried that once with a Bachmann 7-plank truck and brake van. Those weren't able to manage any type of curve at all, because the buffers were positively clenched together alright (as indeed they should be), but the lack of kinematic mechanism forced them to stay together straight like that.
Hi SG, things aren’t too bad but older stock does take some work to get reasonable results.
@@ChadwickModelRailway I can see that, yes. I have a bit of older UK stock myself, still gotta start work on that.... gonna fit NEM pockets on those.
Try using standard N gauge couplings for OO gage coach sets!
Now there’s a thought Victor.
Regards Charlie
This is a video I need as a relative beginner, thanks Charlie, it is indeed a minefield sir. Thanks, Regan, BMS.
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it BMS
@@ChadwickModelRailway yes appreciate any support at this stage!!!!
Great video as always Charlie
Thanks mate.
Hi Charlie, I found the video very interesting and informative. You are 100% correct in your pronunciation of Kadee (Kay-Dee) couplers. You probably know the back story on how the company received it's name. For those who do not, The company is named using the initials of the twin brothers, Keith and Dale Edwards, i.e. K And D Edwards adding an additional "e" for the phonetic pronunciation of the letter "D". Here in the States the Kadee coupler has become the defacto standard for HO Scale trains replacing the NMRA X2F coupler. Keith Edwards later went on to create the Micro-Trains company and their coupler has become the defacto standard for N scale trains, replacing the Rapido N scale coupler. In the early years of HO scale, there was a division between body mounting and truck (bogie) mounting couplers. Modelers today prefer body mounting the couplers as the forces applied to the rolling stock when backing a train, are not placed on the trucks (bogies) allowing them to swing freely. This movement is now gaining traction in the N scale community here in the States. A couple of question, are OO modelers in the UK continuing to use the "D" type coupling for modern rolling stock, or have folks begun making the transition to Kadee or Kadee compatible couplers? Here in the States when two pieces of rolling stock are semi-permanently attached, we call the coupling piece a "Draw Bar". The two flexible pieces between your coaches that surround the end doors, here in the States are known as Diaphragms. Do these pieces have the same name in the UK? I do enjoy learning things about railways and model railways from around the world and I find your videos very informative. Cheers, Rich S.
Thanks Rich, what a fascinating comment. If you don’t mind, I’ll use the info in the Kadee’s episode.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Yes, Charlie please feel free to use the information. Cheers, Rich S.
Hi Charlie - a very Happy New Year to you and your family.
Firstly, if I've missed something obvious in amongst your episodes, my sincere apologies - but I'm trying to find if you've covered replacing D couplings with NEM couplings anywhere, as I'd like to replace my Hornby freightliner wagon couplings with something much better.
Thank you and take care.
Jeff
Hi Geoff, in the “show more” tab, there is a link which will take you through to Hunt Couplings, also known as West Hill Wagon Works. Then navigate their website and you will find some suitable couplings. Regards Charlie
Thanks for your advice Charlie.
Best wishes.
Jeff
Hi Charlie a great video mate great information on coaches and wagons coupling I had to replace the coupling on my oxfordrail mk3a fo/tso to kds coupling because I found the oxfordrail coupling where to fragile I put the kds coupling no the coaches I chassis and it worked mate I have 4 trains of oxfordrail mk3a fo/tso/frb I also upgrade my old hornby freightliner flats with scratch building boxs brake pipes air tanks and brake wheels buffers and fox transfer of freightliner wagons clive
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Clive. My flats really need some TLC.
Fantastic video once again . A while ago u did a video on the nem s and I think it was a load of instantar couplings from shapeways ,think it was .are the still any good on the wagons u were testing them on . ?.also thank u for so many great ideas
I will come on to them in this series WB
Another superb and informative video. I don't know whether you know but you can buy Nylon M2 nuts and bolts in black, might save you a bit of painting and also easier to trim. Frank
Thanks Frank, that’s a useful option.
21:30 Could you not use something like a piece of bicycle inner tube to join the two together to completely close that gap? The black expandable part I mean? I hope that makes sense 🙈👍
Yes I do understand Marc.
I’ll have a think, thanks.
Great video really informative. I was wondering if in a future video you could cover how to install KD couplings to stock both with and without a NEM pocket fitted?
I film it tomorrow Matt!
I am a complete newbie having inherited a substantial layout and now in the process of deciding to keep or not. One question on your video what is part numbers of the tension locks from Bachmann as the rolling stock I have are either missing some couplings or are home made would like to make them all the same
The best thing to do, is taking them along to your local Model railway shop. I’m sure they will be able to help. Regards, Charlie
high can you at least let me know the part number of the couplings@@ChadwickModelRailway
If you search eBay for the couplings, the part numbers will show up. Regards, Charlie
I just wanted to say thanks for the help you have given me. I have dementia and sometimes I need to ask questions more than ones, especially about Digitrax. Please let me know if my questions are ok to ask so much?
If you feel guilty RH, you can always become a “Patron”.
You used to be able to get a thread lok from Loctite that would fix those 2mm nuts Charlie.
I think that you’re right Roy Loctite is the answer.
I always seem to have problems with the couplings on Dapol goods wagons!
Yes that are a challenge but what are we going to do about it?
May I humbly suggest you treat yourself to a rerailer,I model in N gauge and would be lost without mine. I look forward to episode 2 as I any looking for a replacement for the great big lump of plastic that is the standard coupling in N gauge.
I have one Anthony, I just need to use it!
Kadee’s next.
For those siphons - would you ever consider changing the buffers for shorter models? or is it better to play with the coupling lengths?
Hi Neil, I’d go for the couplings first.
Well, what can I say? I have done this sort of thing and gone in the rabbit hole never to return! I am sure you are a much, much better mechanical engineer than me. I think I will stick to my electrical engineering and not try to modify couplers. 🤔 Great video as usual maestro!
I’m so pleased you found the video interesting, and it’s great to have you onboard mate. Regards, Charlie
Appreciate this is an old video, but I went back and watched it along with the other 2 coupling videos you did to support it. I'm still debating how to uncouple locos from my fixed rakes of stock, which are all magentically couplued using 3D printed couplings made to look like vacuum hoses with 2 magents so the coaches and wagons can be coupled either way around. The reason for my commenting now, is I recently purchase a rake of 3 Hornby newspaper vans, and to my horror, when they arrived, they have the old Lima moulded large D tension hook couplings, not an NEM pocket in site. Simply unbelievable in 2024 that Hornby think it acceptable to do this. These vans are not even sold as Railroad range and retail at over £45 each.
I must confess, I would’ve returned them as, not fit for purpose! We shouldn’t have to put up with such garbage. Regards, Charlie
Very interesting to me. I have no experience with OO scale, but recently built a garden layout in A scale, (G gauge). The coupler situation in large scale is horrendous, with truck-mounted, talgo-style hook and loop couplers being the norm. Even replacement knuckles are truck-mounted and too low. Major body work can be required to fix this. But, as they are wont to say: "It's all part of the fun of model railroading!"
Best wishes to Ray, too.
Thanks Avlisk, yes couplings are one of our many challenges.
Brilliant Charlie, many thanks, just what I needed. Here's to Episode 2..!!
Thanks Eddie, I’m so please that you enjoyed it.
Charlie, as always brilliant. The very best to Ray and his family. Couplings, heights, wheel sets, and gaps. Sounds like something that Cher might sing about, (gypsies, tramps and thieves) the variations between manufacturers is stunning, and all of my stock (I am new to this) is purchased post 2016... I use Kadee couplings thought it would simplify things.. hmmm. Ahh well I wanted a challenging hobby. Best regards.
Thanks Vic, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it
Charlie Lima points with fitted point motors DC layout I want to do a large sidings to my layout for cleaning carriages as was located in old Rutherglen.I have picked up a load of second hand ones all fitted with Lima motors Heres the question How are these wired back to the DC controller, or can you put me in the direction
regards
Will
I’m so sorry Will but I really have no idea. However, I’m certain that RUclips will have the answer.
Thanks again Charlie, have you previously shown how you re-wheel wagons etc. I've possibly missed this if you have.
It’s quite simple but I will go over it.
Thanks for the great tutorial, this is one area that I am still puzzling over. I have already re-wheeled at least 90% of my stock so that is not a problem though I am happy to stick with code 100 rail as some of my locomotives would also have problems on 75. My conundrum is whether to stick with tension lock and just change out some of the larger old style ones or go for something completely different.
Stick around Rob in my couplings adventure!
This is my dilemma. I inherited a lot of Palitoy Mainline rolling stock from my father which whilst not up to modern standards are passable models, I am changing the wheels but I think laziness will make me keep the tension lock couplings. I do however often have a problem with the different styles of tension lock couplings.
@@philnewstead5388 I think the Mainline rolling stock was very nice, much better than Hornby of the day. I do have some myself and Bachmann are still using some of it in their current range. Their couplings are a bit smaller as well and seem to work quite well for tension locks and of course Bachmann still make those as well which are good replacements for the larger Tri-ang Hornby ones. The only real downside to Mainline was the split chassis locomotives, the body detailing was great again for the day.
Rob Arnold to be honest I'm moving the locos on as not only are the split cassis locos a night mare to convert to DCC they don't run that well and occasionally they blow the chips. I did get in touch with Bachmann and they said it was possible to change the chassis for more modern DCC compatible chassis but they will not supply a complete chassis. I agree that the Bachmann models were a quantum leap ahead of Hornby who basically had a monopoly at the time and were quite complacent and I think it would be fair to say Palitoy are probably responsible for where the industry is today.
Hi Charlie your mk 2 coach fit a 1mm plastic card shim with a hole in the middle between bogie and chassis this will bring it up to the correct height with your MK1 stock
Thanks Paul, I’ll certainly check it out.
Charlie, have you come across Hunt Couplings? They appear to be magnetic and come in several types.
Thanks I’ll check them out Geoffrey.
Very informative Charlie. And best wishes to Ray and his family!
Thanks Dan, I do hope that he reads these comments.
Great video! Can you link the Bachmann couplings (both types)? I'm in the states so a little difficult getting parts as an 00 modeler. Oh and the wheel sets too. Thanks!
I have left the links in the, show more, tab.
Hi Charlie. I have some very old hornby crimson and cream coaches with some awful couplings that are riveted on. Do you have any advice for how I could replace them?? Thanks
Sorry Harley but not without one in front of me.
Great stuff again Charlie. Looking forward to hearing about KayDee's and the trials of getting the right heights and lengths for NEM pockets and also converting old tension locks to Kay Dee, installing magnets for uncoupling, etc etc!
On another track (:-)), how do you keep all your stuff running? Is there a video to do on cleaning track, loco wheels, lubrication, etc perhaps?
Hi Nick, the Kadee video is finished and ready for uploading.
I will tackled track cleaning but not in the near future.
Regards Charlie
Freightliner was 4 in a set as far as I can remember.
I’m pretty sure that they were in fives mate.
I think a question we all should ask is. What is the gap in really life between the two wagons?
As we all can guess a bar coupling, as on freightliner inner wagons is fixed.
Despite the height difference of Mk1 and Mk2 coaches the white waist lines and corridor connections were a perfect match.
But sadly the steps and roofs don’t.
It’s a puzzle Geoff.
@@ChadwickModelRailway Back to the Drawing Board.
It would be most helpful if you could mention which particular gauges/scales you're talking about in your videos.
It’s always OO/HO. Regards Charlie
Thank you for a great and informative video you are quite right couplings can be a nightmare it would be good if there was a standard for all couplings on my Bachmann and later Hornby coaches I use the pipe type coupling which on rakes work vey well indeed thank for showing us how you modified the Lima type coupling to nem I will definitely do the same to my Lima wagons and coaches Kind Regards Martin
I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it Martin
Well presented as always Charlie, looking forward to episode two! Thanks Chris
Thanks Chris, I’m so pleased that you enjoyed it
Hi Charlie, i think the kits you where after for the Freightliner wagons are from S kits, 16 Barrow Road, Sileby, Loughborough, Leicestershire LE12 7LP . If you get a kit i would be very interested in a video on the use of the kits.
Many thanks Paul, I’m onto it.