Best part of this whole experience is being STOPPED dead in your tracks, hanging off with my WHOLE body weight on the first damn 22mm socket on the inside… 😭😂 we still doin it tho. Lmao! Great instruction process fs!!
Best video out there for this process. I'm overly critical of these types of vids, but I really didn't have a single question after viewing. Thank you for what you do. Also, I use a C-clamp with one of the old pads to compress the piston.
I added a diagram from the service manual in the description (drive.google.com/file/d/1AsWwbuk6VFqg1YVy7whAT8LY9IhBxBeI/view?usp=sharing). Hope this helps.
Ah, gotcha! I mixed up scenes and thought one of the front tire jacking steps was the rear. Went back through and saw you using the rocker seam a bit down from the reinforced portion of the pinch. Glad to see that works, heard a lot of hemming and hawing about the seam folding and people seemingly resorting to the rear suspension member/getting the whole rear up at once. I'll likely use your/the manual's method, but for anyone interested, that suspension member center point has definitely been used successfully by others, and although it's no longer listed in the Gen 5 service manuals, it is a fitting component for Maximas made in years where their manual did list it, so it sounds like it's probably good to go. All that said, I'm very new to this, so anyone interested should definitely double check my work. Thanks again, and good luck to everyone else trying to figure this out!
Great video and very detailed. Just a couple of quick questions. It appeared that the wear tabs were on the top of the old pads when you removed them on the front wheels but you installed the new pads with the wear tabs at the bottom. Will they work properly in either position? The second question is that you didn't show any adjustment to the parking brake on reassembly. I'm assuming that it auto adjusts so no adjustment is required. Thanks again. P.S. Do you have a video showing the replacement of the parking brake shoes?
Thank you. Yes, as long as the brake pad wear indicator is on the inside of the caliper, you're good. The adjuster was rotated just a bit to remove the rotor. Cycling the parking brake should bed the pad to the original position. However, there is a whole procedure for changing and breaking in new parking brake pads. At this point in time, it is not on the schedule to be done.
Good question. No, this was not an oversight. We adjusted the parking brake just a small amount at the beginning, which accounted for wear on the old rotor. This placed it in an ideal position when installing the new rotor. Plus, working the parking brake will correct the gap.
Grease for the caliper guide pins or from what I’ve heard high temp silicone spray And if my torque wrench only goes to say 85 can I just add the extra torque to what it needs to be
So like max torque then the extra torque that’s lefts sounds odd but I’m not sure if that would work or if I should just buy a new torque wrench I think you understand me like adding the numbers say it needs 100 Torque I give it the max I can give them add it until it gets to the necessary torque but I don’t think that’s how torque wrenches work lol 😅
I see what you're saying. Yea, you could torque it to 85 ft-lbs, then use a lug wrench to tighten some more. The goal is not to leave them loose and not strip the studs.
@@mcgurrentertainment alright thanks break job starts tomorrow my front breaks are practically non existent I can barely break I only work today one question that went unanswered grease for the caliper guide pins or silicone high temp spray
Yes, you would need to install the plug. If you adjusted the parking brake too much, you may need to tighten up a bit. We adjusted the parking brake just a small amount at the beginning, which accounted for wear on the old rotor. This placed it in an ideal position when installing the new rotor. Plus, working the parking brake will correct the gap.
On the back brakes… when u take the rubber seal out and turn that on the inside to release the rotor some… do you have to turn it back before u put the seal back in?
Good question. We adjusted the parking brake just a small amount at the beginning, which accounted for wear on the old rotor. This placed it in an ideal position when installing the new rotor. Plus, working the parking brake will correct the gap.
Best part of this whole experience is being STOPPED dead in your tracks, hanging off with my WHOLE body weight on the first damn 22mm socket on the inside… 😭😂 we still doin it tho. Lmao! Great instruction process fs!!
German Torque!
GUD N TIGHT!
BTW, Your video is the BEST on how to do it right!
Thank you very much
Thanks this video just saved me money I was able to do it myself
That's awesome!!! I'm very glad it helped 😃
I like how detailed you are. I am going to change my brakes and rotors for the first time soon. I feel less intimidated now lol
Thank you very much. It's not difficult at all. Once you do it, it gets easier every time.
Ìhhhkkl
Great video. Clear and to the point.
Best video out there for this process. I'm overly critical of these types of vids, but I really didn't have a single question after viewing. Thank you for what you do.
Also, I use a C-clamp with one of the old pads to compress the piston.
Thank you very much. We try our best. A C-clamp works very well, that's what I used before buying the kit. Good info.
Don't forget to take the cap off for brake fluid reservoir before you do this
👍
Perfect video. Thank you so much. And thank you for listing everything in the description
Thank you for the positive feedback and support
Best one so far
Thank you very much!!!
Great. Should mention to readjust rear ebrake
Ok
Where do you jack the rear of the car? I've been trying to figure it out for days. Great vid, btw!
I added a diagram from the service manual in the description (drive.google.com/file/d/1AsWwbuk6VFqg1YVy7whAT8LY9IhBxBeI/view?usp=sharing). Hope this helps.
Ah, gotcha! I mixed up scenes and thought one of the front tire jacking steps was the rear. Went back through and saw you using the rocker seam a bit down from the reinforced portion of the pinch. Glad to see that works, heard a lot of hemming and hawing about the seam folding and people seemingly resorting to the rear suspension member/getting the whole rear up at once. I'll likely use your/the manual's method, but for anyone interested, that suspension member center point has definitely been used successfully by others, and although it's no longer listed in the Gen 5 service manuals, it is a fitting component for Maximas made in years where their manual did list it, so it sounds like it's probably good to go. All that said, I'm very new to this, so anyone interested should definitely double check my work. Thanks again, and good luck to everyone else trying to figure this out!
Great video and very detailed. Just a couple of quick questions. It appeared that the wear tabs were on the top of the old pads when you removed them on the front wheels but you installed the new pads with the wear tabs at the bottom. Will they work properly in either position? The second question is that you didn't show any adjustment to the parking brake on reassembly. I'm assuming that it auto adjusts so no adjustment is required. Thanks again. P.S. Do you have a video showing the replacement of the parking brake shoes?
Thank you. Yes, as long as the brake pad wear indicator is on the inside of the caliper, you're good. The adjuster was rotated just a bit to remove the rotor. Cycling the parking brake should bed the pad to the original position. However, there is a whole procedure for changing and breaking in new parking brake pads. At this point in time, it is not on the schedule to be done.
I didnt see where you adjusted the rear parking brake when reinstalling the rotors? Was that an oversite?
Good question. No, this was not an oversight. We adjusted the parking brake just a small amount at the beginning, which accounted for wear on the old rotor. This placed it in an ideal position when installing the new rotor. Plus, working the parking brake will correct the gap.
Grease for the caliper guide pins or from what I’ve heard high temp silicone spray
And if my torque wrench only goes to say 85 can I just add the extra torque to what it needs to be
How would you add the extra torque?
@@mcgurrentertainment with the torque wrench
So like max torque then the extra torque that’s lefts sounds odd but I’m not sure if that would work or if I should just buy a new torque wrench
I think you understand me like adding the numbers say it needs 100 Torque I give it the max I can give them add it until it gets to the necessary torque but I don’t think that’s how torque wrenches work lol 😅
I see what you're saying. Yea, you could torque it to 85 ft-lbs, then use a lug wrench to tighten some more. The goal is not to leave them loose and not strip the studs.
@@mcgurrentertainment alright thanks break job starts tomorrow my front breaks are practically non existent I can barely break I only work today one question that went unanswered grease for the caliper guide pins or silicone high temp spray
What happened to the plug you took out to loosen that silver dial. Do you not have to tighten and reinstall the plug?
Yes, you would need to install the plug. If you adjusted the parking brake too much, you may need to tighten up a bit. We adjusted the parking brake just a small amount at the beginning, which accounted for wear on the old rotor. This placed it in an ideal position when installing the new rotor. Plus, working the parking brake will correct the gap.
Might be a silly question to ask but if you left the parking break engaged when changing the rear what would happen?
Good question. Well, you would have a very difficult time removing the rear brake rotor.
@@mcgurrentertainment got it thanks a lot and your video was very informative
No problem at all. And I'm glad it helped.
On the back brakes… when u take the rubber seal out and turn that on the inside to release the rotor some… do you have to turn it back before u put the seal back in?
Good question. We adjusted the parking brake just a small amount at the beginning, which accounted for wear on the old rotor. This placed it in an ideal position when installing the new rotor. Plus, working the parking brake will correct the gap.
Not to sure why you used the thread locker on rusty bolts. Next guy is gonna love removing those bolts
Medium Strength Threadlocker (blue) is easy to remove. And most likely, I will be that next guy.
😂 what a Karen comment ! Bitty old Hen..brand new bolts and you're calling them rusty ? You should be embarrassed! ..smh