Been doing everything you pointed out in this video for 23+ years. Never had any problems with any of my brake jobs. Glad someone is teaching people the right way to do it. Great job!
HEY CAN SOMEONE HELP I HAVE AN ISSUE, I JUST CHANGED MY BRAKES AND ROTORS YESTERDAY. AFTER DRVING I REALIZED A SQUEAKING NOISE. I WENT BACK OVER MY WORK AND SAW THAT THE INSIDE BRAKE PAS IS TOUCHING THE ROTOR AND CAUSING THE SOUND. WILL GEASE FIX THIS OR IS IT SOMETHING ELSE?
Ive been doing this for 15 years for my Toyota RAV4 3.5L V6 2008. I will never change this car for a new car because I know what I put and quality parts in my car. I bought 38K new on 2008 + maintenance in total of more than 50k ❤ ✌️ thank you 🙏 for making this video your amazing putting people safety!
Right on. I do as much as possible with highest quality parts and take my time to do little things others skip, such as using anti-seize on all bolts and a torque wrench. I know my good quality parts such as oil actually go into MY car.
My rear calipers were getting stuck. After cleaning everything I installed new rubber seals, grommets and greased up nicely like you showed in the video. Good work thank you for the tutorials.
I like the way you describe what your doing!! Most mechanics don’t even clean the stuff they fix. I’m a true believer in cleaning anything I take off before I put it back on. But thank you for your time. I’m already done but still watch your videos
Agreed, with the exception of sometimes you have an old seal that has never been touched, and if you disturb it, you will likely _cause_ a failure. Those are in the "leave it alone/let it be" category.
When cleaning the brake dust, spray down with brake cleaner or similar to get area wet. Then use a brush and sweep downward & outward with your hand. Using compressed air will send the cancer dust all up in the air for you or your co-workers to breathe in.
I'm in my late 60s and I've never slathered on the grease on the brake system. Just key points. The caliper sliding contact points and the mount bolts that it slides on. That's it. It has always seemed more important to me to shine the sliding contact points more than anything. Give them a fresh start. As long as those sliding surfaces are smooth they will do much better.
It gets more important as you move north. Here in the salt belt, (as mentioned in the video), filing the caliper bracket under the stainless hardware is a regular step if you do no not disassemble and grease each year.
I’m in my 50’s. He’s right. There was no such product as brake grease. Brake pins get greased and it doesn’t need to be high temp. Just clean everything else. I think brake grease is just grease labeled different by oil companies to sell another product.
Thanks for the share. Using silicone grease on any parts with rubber contact (like the guide pins with the rubber bushings and the pistons) is a must. Petroleum based grease will cause the bushings on the pins to expand locking the pins in place and ultimately warping the rotors for example.
Somebody tell the Toyota dealerships in my area. Had a set of pads and rotors go bad on a hybrid after 13k mi ,16mo because they didn't service slide pins.
That’s the only thing I found a little frustrating is that he wasn’t explaining what grease he was using when he was lubricating stuff. Can you use the silicone grease on the metal parts as well?
Finally! somebody who says where to put grease instead of the keyboard warriors saying this is wrong..that is wrong...and nobody can agree on where to grease things. Good video.
Great vid. Thanks for staying on point & showing us how it’s done. As you demonstrated, it only takes a few extra minutes to do it right. If you don’t take the time to do it right now, when will you take the time to do it right later?
I use anti seize around hub and bracket where hardware goes. Also don’t over grease your pins! Also, I put antiseize on the pad ears. Never put anything on the back of pads. I try to minimize the use of grease….it collects too much dust and dirt!
I like how you grease the pin and the brush the rust off the holder right next to the greased pin so the rust will collect all over your nicely greased pin. This is the level of professionalism that causes me to preform my own maintenance.
I thought the same thing when I saw it, then wondered if I was being too nit-picky. I would recommend cleaning first as well, but I don't think any problem will ensue. Nice video, thanks.
Wow really the pin is covered by the rubber boot. You think the future road grime and brake dust will just avoid the greased pins.. We are glad you do your own maintenance geez..
He put the pins back into their hole that had its rubber boot in place. The boot is air tight so no dust can get to the pins he just lubed up. If you didn't know that, be careful working on your own cars or maybe not at all.
An excellent video, RB. Some great tips and best practices. If only every garage did it like this, they wouldn't have such a bad rep. I would, however, like to make the following points: 0:30 "blow on it" - NO don't do that, the dust gets in the air and you may end up breathing it in. Wash with a solvent (brake cleaner) 1:30 I've never greased the boots, but I like the suggestion. I'll start doing that 1:50 you pushed the pistons in with the bleed nipple closed - you should clamp the hose and open the nipple to expel the old fluid and top up the master cylinder with fresh. The caliper end is likely to have the highest level of moisture in the fluid and pushing it backwards up the system puts it in the ABS valve block where it can cause corrosion and eventual early life failure of the ABS. 2.30 I notice you didn't clean the disc. Whilst most discs no longer come 'oiled', give them a wash to make sure they are not dirty, especially the mating face to ensure there is no dirt causing it to run out of true. A minor point, but valid. 3:20 no copper grease in sight 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏 I'm in touch with Textar (TMP Friction) and am hoping to make a video specifically about why NOT to use copper grease 4:00 see all that dust. Don't go breathing it in. Wet with a cleaner while brushing 5:20 yep, pads should run dry in the carrier 👏👏👏👏👏 yep, jams the pads if you do
Did you make that video on why not to use copper grease? And also, wouldn't the part of brake fluid with moisture stay near the caliper anyway when one pushes the pistons? I assume when one pushes the pistons the fluid just compresses (staying in the same places), not change positions inside the tube. If anything, wouldn't opening the bleed valve allow the part of fluid/oil with moisture from near the caliper to actually move within the tube (and keeping the bleed valve closed will not allow the fluid to move)? (Sorry if "tube" is the wrong term in this case, I hope you understand what I meant).
I just found your channel. Vidoes are fantastic! I have subscribed and plan to search to see if there are any for current issues I'm having. I also need to find a good channel for motorcycles. I'm no mechanic and there are certain things that I won't even attempt, but for the simpler things that I can do, I appreciate knowledgeable people like you sharing your expertise! I can afford to own my car, but keeping up with everything required or when things go bad is really difficult these days. Thanks again!
This is exactly how I do brake jobs. Only differences are I do “over grease” the pins and I always thoroughly clean up and or paint the calipers and clean splash guard and suspension up because of my OCD but anyways, perfect service shop technique vid!
Correct me if I am wrong, you don't grease the 2 tips of the brake pad? would it make noise if the pads move back and forth on top of that metal hardware without lubricant? I am no mechanic just want to get more knowledge to do it myself
Good work RB! Ive changed about 40 sets of brake pads and didnt REALLY ever grease anything. I think I WILL DEFinitely start tho! Thx for the stellar vids!
Maybe a dumb question. But on the caliper pins, one has a little rubber piece on the end, the other doesn’t. Does it matter which goes where? Asking because I think I screwed that up on my car and don’t know which goes where now
So about greasing the outer pad -> you put grease around the entire backing plate but only a small portion of that comes into contact with the caliper 'fingers' (you have 3 in your case), the rest is exposed to the elements and just collects gunk/grit, no? I was told to put the grease on the back of those fingers and on the piston itself, that way it's only where it's needed. Thoughts?
Wow, thanks! Yup this video will help lot of people u fer stand greasing for brake. After doing this process I have never had a brake come back with noise or squeak or uneven jammed brakes
I don't paint the back of the pads with grease like the video, but I do put some on the caliper ears and the piston/boot. That's what every replacement pad Ive ever installed instructs you to do with the supplied grease. As well as where the pad contacts the caliper. Im not sure why you would grease under the hardware.
Howcome you didn't put anti seize on the hub? So many times I had to pull or mallet the rotor to separate it from the hub because the last mechanic didn't apply anti seize .🤦
Can u plz advise which grease is best for caliper sliding pins ? When I bought brake pads , they sent small packet of grease. I guess that is only to be used for brakes but not calipers .
You should grease the set screws too, or use anti-seize. I also put grease on the outside heads of those screws after I screw them into the rotors. I am always looking out for the next guy that will have to do the brake job.
@@RBTheMechanic thanks so much for responding! How about using it to grease the caliper brackets, and where the retaining tins sit? Basically I have sylglide and copper anti seize, wondering if I need a third thing
What do you think of sil glyde on just the slider pins and copper antiseize on contact points only metal? What’s the difference in why people use antiseize vs the CRC brake grease you’re using in this video?
I am eager to do my own brakes due to some mechanic do a terrible job on my oem brake pads. I have a question regarding my brand new oem front pads and rotors. I am getting squeaky noises from these new oem 2017 toyota camry. My mechanic inform me that it is the new brake pads that are the problem. Is my mechanic telling the truth? I would greatly appreciate your help. He had yelled at me for coming inn to recheck my brakes. Thank you for your RUclips video. Larry
The anti-seize is designed for static connections like threaded screws, nuts, spark plugs to remove them easier and prevent corrosion. It is not designed for lubricating any moving parts as it has sacrificial abrasive metal particles mixed with oil. You could use an anti-seize for the brake rotor inner surface and it's retaining screw. But not for anything else. Stainless steel is particularly unhappy with copper particles found in the majority of anti-seize formulations.
I installed a new caliper, but it won’t release. The rotor is stuck. I’ve been using a special tool to push the piston back. Then when I do the bleeding procedure the caliper won’t release. It’s messing with my gas mileage and chewing my brake pads. Is it maybe because I’m not doing the bleeding procedure right? Is it OK to have a tube from the bleeder connected to a closed bottle while a friend pushes on the brake and you bleed the valve? Not sure if that’s the correct why to do it? Or should the tube be free from the bottle?
Why not use the silicone grease for all of it? Why is a different grease used for the hub/rotor contact area and the back of the brake pads instead of using the silicone grease for everything? Also, would Super Lube be a good choice to use in any of these brake parts applications or is silicone grease superior here? Reason I'm asking is that I have a new tube of Super Lube and when I bought it I thought it was basically a type of silicone grease but after researching it recently I'm finding out that it's not so I'm still trying to find out which grease is superior in which particular applications between Super Lube and silicone grease........Thanks for the video. 👍
Copper grease and other brake parts grease is better to use for metal to metal but the silicone is used for the pins mainly because of the rubber boots. The copper grease doesn't react well with rubber. A good silicone lube is good for the pins and won't harm the rubber boots.
@@Glock274Jimmy So then silicone grease isn't that great for metal to metal contact? I've been trying to research that for quite some time but I can't seem to find much info about it online.
Thanks for the detailed video. I've never greased the caliper piston boots but will do now. Two-part question: do you apply threadlocker on the caliper bolt threads? If so, do you use blue or red? Thanks.
@@chriscockrell3023 Sounds like a valid point. Maybe just use a rubber renewing oil or something like that, and let it soak in the rubber, but not use grease so that it will just be a bunch of grease on the surfaces to in fact collect dirt on those surfaces. But then again, I presume these rubbers don't really need to be renewed with oils. And they're just changed when the time is right, together with other rubbers in the caliper system and probably together with the pistons and sliding pins.
Could someone explain why the brake pads are lubricated on the outside? I’ve just bought my pads and they have a 3M sticky paper I can remove and underneath is a sticky surface..
I agree with your grease points for the most part except for a few exceptions like the surface of the back of the pad I would not have greased instead I would have went to the caliper and greased those points so that way you don't have a huge surface of grease on the pad that isn't even being touched and accumulates grime and dirt and also just a waste of grease in my opinion. I also like to put some lubricant on the face of the rotor in between the wheel studs. And not saying that yours needed it but generally I go a little crazier with wire brush.
Any silicone grease with a melting point around or above 200 degrees is good. Generally dielectric greases don't meet this requirement. But if you find one you can use it.
I've watched a lot of these videos and it's funny how people vary in their method. Other people also grease on top of the pad clips or pad ears, and clean out the pin bores.
Hi sir, I have taken a brand new hyundai venue sx diesel model. I have noticed a slight sound while braking at a low speed but the sound only lasts for 200 metre maximum. Then it vanishes. I have taken to service center but they told everything is ok after inspecting.What should i do? Please reply to me .
But the CRC grease is silicone as well. Why use two different brands of the same thing? Also, did the dust boot come from the factory covered in silicone grease?
I have used it, but better than CRC caliper grease on the mating faces of hub and rotor, is aluminum or copper antiseize (also under the heads of the retention screws). If aluminum wheels are mounted, this will make a later brake job much easier . Antiseize is a sacrificial material that won't attract or hold contaminants as any grease will, and it will oxidize slower than steel. The aluminum and copper oxides do not swell as much as iron oxide does and aren't as abrasive. Nickle antiseize is even better but very expensive. It's worth the effort to use foam swabs (qtips) to clean out the pin bores and use brake clean to flush away any old petroleum grease residue.
Great video excatly how ive been doing mine for yrs, teach right teach once ehh, must say I do grease the metal brake plates as we dont get them with our brake pads kits here in Australia top brands or not
Great Video and thank you for your time! I have been using Liqui Moly Anti Squeak Paste and I got a terrific results. In Adittion to that I managed to put A Special German Grease that can be 💉 injected under that boot in order to lubricate the Piston itself without taking it a Part. My Unlce was a Mechanic for Mercedes-Benz for 31 Y and he told me about this Grease. Grease Called (Bremszylinder- Paste) Comes only from Germany 🇩🇪 It's absolutely Great and made my Brake function like Brand New.
Question, I am sure you know this but how come you do not have the bleeder screw open while pushing the piston back into the bore?, the caliper is the lowest point of the brake circuit and all the sediment and water will collect there which is heavier than brake fluid. The piston will also go back into the bore with less force when the bleeder screw is open and will draw in clean uncontaminated brake fluid..
Yes but what if bleeder valve dosent open what if it brakes and if u want to go through all that trouble it would be best to do brake flush and if u keep ur brake flush service up to date this shouldn’t need to be done and that is whole diffrent service I would not do that ever to be safe and not cause air to the systm
@@RBTheMechanic You will need to open all bleeder valves on all calipers to properly flush the lines, everything settles in the brake caliper, its the lowest point in the brake circuit, there is no way I would risk pushing all that sediment and water up into the ABS system and master cylinder which is asking for trouble. Small chance the bleeder valve will not come out, let it soak with WD-40 or similar.
@@johnmilner7603 It takes one second to crack open the screw, you never want to push what's sitting in the caliper up into the ABS and master cylinder, everything collects there cuz it's the lowest part of the brake circuit..
I put some on the back of my pads because that’s what I’ve seen in your and other videos, but they had some textured polymer already on the back, so I doubt I the grease helps anything in that spot.
Anti-seize is used to prevent the eventual rust buildup on metal to metal contact points from seizing the hardware (like mounting bolts and rotor-to-hub contacts), but it doesn't have the same lubricating properties as brake grease does. Brake grease is typically for brake-related contact points only (guide pins, pad edges, etc.) Not saying that RB is doing anything wrong, however.
No grease on the back of the pads under any circumstances! And the only way I would concider putting grease under the hardware is if I lived in the rust belt. Between the rotor and hub and on the screw that holds the rotor a lite amount of anti-seize. And something alot of mechanics overlook is cleaning the old grease out of the holes that the sliding pins go in. If you just add new grease every brake job you could run into problems.
@@allent1034 the only people who put grease on the back of the pads are people who don't have any idea what they are doing. There is a product that was sold (and still might be) that was this orange stuff that was meant to go on the back of pads. It dried to a rubbery consistency and the idea was that it would help to suppress vibration which is what causes break squeak. I have had factory training from Ford and Toyota and have spoken with reps from brake parts manufacturers and none of them recommend using that stuff. I think the idea of putting grease on the back of pads comes from that? You will never see grease on the back of a pad of any brand new car. If you really thought about how hot your pads can get the grease will not stay, it will get all over the place including in/on places you definately don't want grease.
@@MarzNet256 I don't think it's any harm doing it or not doing it. I recently started using grease on the back of pads. Over about a month or so, the back of pads start collecting gum and dirt because of the grease.
@Kevin Barbaro I'm with you on this... the only things that contact the back of the pads are the piston and the caliper ears. If anything, only put grease on the ring of the piston and the caliper ears that contact the pads. Anything else is a waste and dust and dirt will stick to it.
what is the torque spec on hodna hrv 2020 on all bolts and sliper pins also i dont have the grease u are using i got a crc brake caliper and a a 3m silicone paste is it same yes
@@RBTheMechanic i see thanks will wait for your respond glad found your chaneel you do a very good explanations thanks alot really save me money and felling good if can do it my self thnaks so much
the area on the bracket where the brakes slide back/forth....is better NOT greased. Grease over time will dry up and collect dirt.....which can prevent the brakes from sliding normally and even can cause the brakes not fully slide back (as dried up grease/gunk is sitting there). It could even cause brakes to run hot if the pads cannot move off from the rotor enough through the gunk buildup. It's best to just clean and let it rust....rust will fall off, blow away letting the brakes move freely. Try it on your own car and you'll see the grease over time will dry up and you'll see why that's not a good situation. 😊
On the last step, I grease the ears on the caliper and not the pad because dirt will begin to cling to the areas not covered by the ears. Same for the rear, just grease the piston/s and not the whole pad.
You shouldn’t grease the backs of the brake pads. Do you notice the factory doesn’t do this? Look at the factory shop manual. I’ll quote the one I’m using for the brake job I’m doing right now. “With the vehicle engine running, apply 89-133 N (20-30 lb) of pressure on the brakes for approximately one minute, to make sure the pads ADHERE to the caliper before any contaminants can be introduced.” The grease would be considered a contaminant.
I like to open the bleeder screw when you push the piston in then hold then tighten screw. You can damage the master cylinder or ABS valve block pushing the old fluid back.
No way man, I always open that bleed screw. Otherwise you push dirt and water up into the ABS system and master cylinder. Calipers are a lot cheaper to replace than ABS solenoids and master cylinders. Brake fluid needs to be changed every so often anyways.@@RBTheMechanic
@@Mmonsart747 Nope RB is correct 99% of them will snap and 99% of them are too corroded to remove especially in the rust belt. You'll harm nothing by pushing the fluid back because it's designed to go back both ways. We do this for a living. Take your RUclips certification somewhere else.
Excellent job
Thank you
Said no one ever.
I'm really grateful for this video. I watched a few others and no one made a few of these suggestions. I appreciate other comments here adding advice.
Been doing everything you pointed out in this video for 23+ years. Never had any problems with any of my brake jobs. Glad someone is teaching people the right way to do it. Great job!
Yup I been on the point for last 7 year never had issue with brakes but did have it before glad I figured it out!!
HEY CAN SOMEONE HELP I HAVE AN ISSUE, I JUST CHANGED MY BRAKES AND ROTORS YESTERDAY. AFTER DRVING I REALIZED A SQUEAKING NOISE. I WENT BACK OVER MY WORK AND SAW THAT THE INSIDE BRAKE PAS IS TOUCHING THE ROTOR AND CAUSING THE SOUND. WILL GEASE FIX THIS OR IS IT SOMETHING ELSE?
@@thomasboi305 pad suppose to touch rotor but ummm can u make video if it awakin like train then it’s the material of brakes causing the boise
I thought you were supposed to run the excess fluid out of the bleeder screw when you compress the piston?
Why not grease the stainless brackets
Ive been doing this for 15 years for my Toyota RAV4 3.5L V6 2008.
I will never change this car for a new car because I know what I put and quality parts in my car.
I bought 38K new on 2008 + maintenance in total of more than 50k
❤ ✌️ thank you 🙏 for making this video your amazing putting people safety!
Cool!!
Right on. I do as much as possible with highest quality parts and take my time to do little things others skip, such as using anti-seize on all bolts and a torque wrench. I know my good quality parts such as oil actually go into MY car.
I have a 09 rav4 how do you jack the back side of the car?
Attention to detail is what separates the hacks from Professionals like you. My Man.
Yup
That’s probably the best brake job video I have seen. Very detailed and straight forward. Thank you Sir.
Thank u!! I got good videos comming with more details and more clear
It's rare to see someone doing things right. Such a useful video, thanks!
Yup thank u!!! At least people at home DIYers can follow the steps and do it correct then self
My rear calipers were getting stuck. After cleaning everything I installed new rubber seals, grommets and greased up nicely like you showed in the video. Good work thank you for the tutorials.
Nice
I like the way you describe what your doing!! Most mechanics don’t even clean the stuff they fix. I’m a true believer in cleaning anything I take off before I put it back on. But thank you for your time. I’m already done but still watch your videos
Yup 👍
Agreed, with the exception of sometimes you have an old seal that has never been touched, and if you disturb it, you will likely _cause_ a failure. Those are in the "leave it alone/let it be" category.
Think I'm OCD or something....
Gotta clean clean clean🫧
Clean some more...😂
You take pride in your work. Thank you for sharing this experience. I really appreciate it.
@@kmlumd44 yup thank you!!’
When cleaning the brake dust, spray down with brake cleaner or similar to get area wet. Then use a brush and sweep downward & outward with your hand.
Using compressed air will send the cancer dust all up in the air for you or your co-workers to breathe in.
Defiantly I made those changed and also mask is good great idea thank u!!!
I recommend just wipe when wet, rather than brush it.
You must be from Cali. Everything causes cancer in California.
👍 bang on. I made the same point in my main comment
Soapy water is okay 👍
I'm in my late 60s and I've never slathered on the grease on the brake system. Just key points. The caliper sliding contact points and the mount bolts that it slides on. That's it. It has always seemed more important to me to shine the sliding contact points more than anything. Give them a fresh start. As long as those sliding surfaces are smooth they will do much better.
Yes- grease attracts dirt. Less is more. Prep is most important though.
It gets more important as you move north. Here in the salt belt, (as mentioned in the video), filing the caliper bracket under the stainless hardware is a regular step if you do no not disassemble and grease each year.
Yea, but how old are you?
@@TheTranquilTrader ???
I’m in my 50’s. He’s right. There was no such product as brake grease. Brake pins get greased and it doesn’t need to be high temp. Just clean everything else. I think brake grease is just grease labeled different by oil companies to sell another product.
Thanks for the share. Using silicone grease on any parts with rubber contact (like the guide pins with the rubber bushings and the pistons) is a must. Petroleum based grease will cause the bushings on the pins to expand locking the pins in place and ultimately warping the rotors for example.
Thanks for the info!
Somebody tell the Toyota dealerships in my area. Had a set of pads and rotors go bad on a hybrid after 13k mi ,16mo because they didn't service slide pins.
Depends on the rubber. Mainly nbr vs silicone rubber. Lookup a rubber and grease compatibility chart.
Gotcha
That’s the only thing I found a little frustrating is that he wasn’t explaining what grease he was using when he was lubricating stuff. Can you use the silicone grease on the metal parts as well?
Finally! somebody who says where to put grease instead of the keyboard warriors saying this is wrong..that is wrong...and nobody can agree on where to grease things. Good video.
Yes thank you
Awesome video. It’s refreshing when someone actually knows what they are talking about. Well done sir.
Yup thank u … this will help everyone
Perfect. Straightforward, to the point, no messin' around, LOTS of excellent tips to make it great. Thank you!!
Thank u!!! This is amazon help to many many viewers!!!
This only works if.. the soundtrack of 'Grease' is playing the background lol... Nice job and thanks for the video!
lol yes I guess!!
One of the best videos around, you even show the item codes and not just say "brake grease" as many do in other videos
Yup thanks you
Great vid. Thanks for staying on point & showing us how it’s done. As you demonstrated, it only takes a few extra minutes to do it right. If you don’t take the time to do it right now, when will you take the time to do it right later?
What u mean
I use anti seize around hub and bracket where hardware goes. Also don’t over grease your pins! Also, I put antiseize on the pad ears. Never put anything on the back of pads. I try to minimize the use of grease….it collects too much dust and dirt!
Thank u
I like how you grease the pin and the brush the rust off the holder right next to the greased pin so the rust will collect all over your nicely greased pin. This is the level of professionalism that causes me to preform my own maintenance.
I’ll will avoid that
I thought the same thing when I saw it, then wondered if I was being too nit-picky. I would recommend cleaning first as well, but I don't think any problem will ensue. Nice video, thanks.
@@zerosensai yup thank u!!
Wow really the pin is covered by the rubber boot. You think the future road grime and brake dust will just avoid the greased pins.. We are glad you do your own maintenance geez..
He put the pins back into their hole that had its rubber boot in place. The boot is air tight so no dust can get to the pins he just lubed up. If you didn't know that, be careful working on your own cars or maybe not at all.
Great job. Thanks for posting. Straight n to the point, no BS.
Yup straight to point video!
Excellent as always! My only suggestion would be to anti-seize the Honda screws that hold the rotor in place.
Will look in to that
You mean threadlocker?
@@jinpark5324 Definitely not!
I never put back those screws on my rotors, I always had a very hard time take them off, even with anti seize
Nope. That'll dry out with the heat and sieze the screws in. Use a spot of the brake grease which won't dry out
Excellent tutorial!
I didnt know if I should grease the pad brackets/seats...
Do so
Love this! Onto my second brake job. I didn't do all of this on my last job but I'm so happy I found this video before doing my next. Thank you!
Yup I never had come back on brakes clean grease and make sure they fit nice and smooth
@@RBTheMechanic Definitely wanna do it correct on such an important safety component. 👏🏽
An excellent video, RB. Some great tips and best practices. If only every garage did it like this, they wouldn't have such a bad rep.
I would, however, like to make the following points:
0:30 "blow on it" - NO don't do that, the dust gets in the air and you may end up breathing it in. Wash with a solvent (brake cleaner)
1:30 I've never greased the boots, but I like the suggestion. I'll start doing that
1:50 you pushed the pistons in with the bleed nipple closed - you should clamp the hose and open the nipple to expel the old fluid and top up the master cylinder with fresh. The caliper end is likely to have the highest level of moisture in the fluid and pushing it backwards up the system puts it in the ABS valve block where it can cause corrosion and eventual early life failure of the ABS.
2.30 I notice you didn't clean the disc. Whilst most discs no longer come 'oiled', give them a wash to make sure they are not dirty, especially the mating face to ensure there is no dirt causing it to run out of true. A minor point, but valid.
3:20 no copper grease in sight 👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏 I'm in touch with Textar (TMP Friction) and am hoping to make a video specifically about why NOT to use copper grease
4:00 see all that dust. Don't go breathing it in. Wet with a cleaner while brushing
5:20 yep, pads should run dry in the carrier 👏👏👏👏👏 yep, jams the pads if you do
Yeah bro I use mask!! Ever since pandemic use to it now
Did you make that video on why not to use copper grease?
And also, wouldn't the part of brake fluid with moisture stay near the caliper anyway when one pushes the pistons? I assume when one pushes the pistons the fluid just compresses (staying in the same places), not change positions inside the tube. If anything, wouldn't opening the bleed valve allow the part of fluid/oil with moisture from near the caliper to actually move within the tube (and keeping the bleed valve closed will not allow the fluid to move)?
(Sorry if "tube" is the wrong term in this case, I hope you understand what I meant).
Excellent video; short, sweet, informative. Thanks!
You're welcome!
Thanks for showing us the right way to get it done. It takes just another minute to do it right. Why doesn’t everyone?
Yeah make it good if u do it ur self
Great video! I have done a ton of brake jobs in my life and always do them just as you described in this video!
Nice !!! That’s how they last longer and give u good performance
I just found your channel. Vidoes are fantastic! I have subscribed and plan to search to see if there are any for current issues I'm having. I also need to find a good channel for motorcycles. I'm no mechanic and there are certain things that I won't even attempt, but for the simpler things that I can do, I appreciate knowledgeable people like you sharing your expertise! I can afford to own my car, but keeping up with everything required or when things go bad is really difficult these days. Thanks again!
Yeah ever watching car video will build ur mind to do motor cycle repairs I had my friend who wanted to do oil change I will be doing videos on that
This is exactly how I do brake jobs. Only differences are I do “over grease” the pins and I always thoroughly clean up and or paint the calipers and clean splash guard and suspension up because of my OCD but anyways, perfect service shop technique vid!
Nice good tips
Correct me if I am wrong, you don't grease the 2 tips of the brake pad? would it make noise if the pads move back and forth on top of that metal hardware without lubricant? I am no mechanic just want to get more knowledge to do it myself
Do grease it cuz it will jam up and lock up
Great video! One question: why grease UNDER the clips when the moving brake pads move across the clips, not the bracket?
To prevent metal to metal contact
@@RBTheMechanic Ahh, thanks! I'm currently installing new calipers/pads and I will do the same. Thanks for the explanation.
@@williamdejeffrio9701 welcome!!
Nice video. I like to replace the slide pin boots too, since they deteriorate rather quickly around here and don't cost much.
Great idea!!
So what grease I have to use as you used like 3 types right? Anybody can explain thanks
The two u see in the video
Trevor Dunn was like around 23 when this came out. How can you make such riffs in early 20s damn this guy is pure genius and you play it very well 🎉
Good work RB!
Ive changed about 40 sets of brake pads and didnt REALLY ever grease anything. I think I WILL DEFinitely start tho! Thx for the stellar vids!
Yeah it makes big difference
Makes brake jobs MUCH easier
@@riceburner4747 yup
Great video! I also grease the little screw that keeps the rotor on the hub just so it comes off easy next time
Yup
Maybe a dumb question. But on the caliper pins, one has a little rubber piece on the end, the other doesn’t. Does it matter which goes where? Asking because I think I screwed that up on my car and don’t know which goes where now
What’s year make model and which one ur doing front or rear
On my Subaru, the guide pin with the bushing goes on the bottom. Coincidentally, these are the pins that seize up first.
@@TheDon2087 thanks, that’s what I ended up doing as well, after watching many brake job videos
Had an Odyssey and had to drill off that disc retainer screw. They heat up, rust and seize
Oh yeah
So about greasing the outer pad -> you put grease around the entire backing plate but only a small portion of that comes into contact with the caliper 'fingers' (you have 3 in your case), the rest is exposed to the elements and just collects gunk/grit, no? I was told to put the grease on the back of those fingers and on the piston itself, that way it's only where it's needed. Thoughts?
Yes understandable but I have no issues
Nice video! Metal vs metal interfaces must use molybdenum grease type, metal vs rubber parts must use silicone grease type
Thanks!
I thought the silicon grease was for the slide pins but that you should use another type (not silicon) for the hardware and pad surfaces?
Yes
One of the most complete videos on lubing brakes I found so far. And from a place that specializes in brakes.. great find!
Wow, thanks! Yup this video will help lot of people u fer stand greasing for brake. After doing this process I have never had a brake come back with noise or squeak or uneven jammed brakes
G'day from Bundaberg Australia 🇦🇺🍹 Gread advice matey 👍😝 Quick & to the point is what i like so well done there ! Cheers from Aus 🇦🇺🕺
Welcome
I don't paint the back of the pads with grease like the video, but I do put some on the caliper ears and the piston/boot. That's what every replacement pad Ive ever installed instructs you to do with the supplied grease. As well as where the pad contacts the caliper. Im not sure why you would grease under the hardware.
I had no come backs with greasing as I showed brakes been smooth and good
Did he put the pad on backwards? I've seen videos that say to put the side with the dividing line to the outside, he put it to the inside?
Not wrong
Will be doing brakes on 2021 Lincoln Corsair/escape but can’t find torque specs for caliper pins and bracket
Well I’ll check on my data at shop send me reminder noonish
Howcome you didn't put anti seize on the hub? So many times I had to pull or mallet the rotor to separate it from the hub because the last mechanic didn't apply anti seize .🤦
Greasing works well
Can u plz advise which grease is best for caliper sliding pins ?
When I bought brake pads , they sent small packet of grease. I guess that is only to be used for brakes but not calipers .
The grease I use is what u like
Thx but I just need small one to use only one time as I am not mechanic:) did not find small tube in this brand .
@@hussainimca some brakes come with package on grease u can use that a well
Straight to the point. I learned a lot from this. Many thanks.
Thank!!!
Tip to lubricate piston prior to compressing so lube is already there is great, thanks!
Great point!
Very thorough and educational. Have been doing much of this but I learned a couple of new things today!
Glad it was helpful!
Would it be bad to use a silicone spray on the rubber parts like slide pin boots and piston seals?
Yup don’t use that
Is the black grease that you used in the video anti seize grease? I see some people use the copper version.
U can use that also
Could you let me know whats the torque specs for 2021 dodge charger RT for rear brakes. TIA🙏🏽
Would need to get to shop
You should grease the set screws too, or use anti-seize. I also put grease on the outside heads of those screws after I screw them into the rotors. I am always looking out for the next guy that will have to do the brake job.
If I purchased SYLGLIDE silicone brake grease instead, can I use it just like you did with the CRC grease in the video?
On sliders pins yea
@@RBTheMechanic thanks so much for responding! How about using it to grease the caliper brackets, and where the retaining tins sit? Basically I have sylglide and copper anti seize, wondering if I need a third thing
@@TFNHawkeye u can do that or use this grease
At 4:18 greasing the mounting bracket, youre using the CRC Brake and Caliper grease right? Thanks
Yup
What do you think of sil glyde on just the slider pins and copper antiseize on contact points only metal? What’s the difference in why people use antiseize vs the CRC brake grease you’re using in this video?
Too thin I wouldn’t use antisieze even manufacture use grease
@@RBTheMechanicThanks man
@@SimpleMistaken welcome
I am eager to do my own brakes due to some mechanic do a terrible job on my oem brake pads. I have a question regarding my brand new oem front pads and rotors. I am getting squeaky noises from these new oem 2017 toyota camry. My mechanic inform me that it is the new brake pads that are the problem. Is my mechanic telling the truth? I would greatly appreciate your help. He had yelled at me for coming inn to recheck my brakes.
Thank you for your RUclips video. Larry
Yup pads and rotors need to match just to let u know I use power stop brakes they r really good never had any noise in years
Thanks for those brake tips, wish more mechanics would do the same care of work like You do😊
Yup thank you
so is anti seize the same as , or can it be used in place of grease, and/or lubricant (the packet that came with the new hardware)
I use grease only but either or is fine
The anti-seize is designed for static connections like threaded screws, nuts, spark plugs to remove them easier and prevent corrosion. It is not designed for lubricating any moving parts as it has sacrificial abrasive metal particles mixed with oil. You could use an anti-seize for the brake rotor inner surface and it's retaining screw. But not for anything else. Stainless steel is particularly unhappy with copper particles found in the majority of anti-seize formulations.
At 3:40 you mention it is important to put the slider pins in the same spot where they came from, why is that? Which slider pin goes on top?
The sliders some have flat spot some have rubber busing at the end they do some type of open mechanism for brake so it need to be same spot
I installed a new caliper, but it won’t release. The rotor is stuck. I’ve been using a special tool to push the piston back. Then when I do the bleeding procedure the caliper won’t release. It’s messing with my gas mileage and chewing my brake pads. Is it maybe because I’m not doing the bleeding procedure right?
Is it OK to have a tube from the bleeder connected to a closed bottle while a friend pushes on the brake and you bleed the valve? Not sure if that’s the correct why to do it? Or should the tube be free from the bottle?
Could be restriction in flex line or defect caliper
Thank you for showing us how to do it the right way...
You are so welcome!
Why not use the silicone grease for all of it? Why is a different grease used for the hub/rotor contact area and the back of the brake pads instead of using the silicone grease for everything? Also, would Super Lube be a good choice to use in any of these brake parts applications or is silicone grease superior here? Reason I'm asking is that I have a new tube of Super Lube and when I bought it I thought it was basically a type of silicone grease but after researching it recently I'm finding out that it's not so I'm still trying to find out which grease is superior in which particular applications between Super Lube and silicone grease........Thanks for the video. 👍
Silicon grease i only use for sliders it dosent work well on outside exposed area
@@RBTheMechanic I see, thank you!
Copper grease and other brake parts grease is better to use for metal to metal but the silicone is used for the pins mainly because of the rubber boots. The copper grease doesn't react well with rubber. A good silicone lube is good for the pins and won't harm the rubber boots.
@@Glock274Jimmy So then silicone grease isn't that great for metal to metal contact? I've been trying to research that for quite some time but I can't seem to find much info about it online.
Just to add if your rotors don't have the screws you can wind 2 lug nuts on to hold your rotor in place. Good video👍
Yup
trying to find what the torque values would be for my car. is there a way to find this online?
You can google it
Can the same grease be used on both applications or is the second group that you used and what product is it
Yes
Thanks for the detailed video. I've never greased the caliper piston boots but will do now. Two-part question: do you apply threadlocker on the caliper bolt threads? If so, do you use blue or red? Thanks.
I don’t use thread lock but if I were to use I would go with red
Grease attracks dirt. Don't do it.
@@chriscockrell3023
Sounds like a valid point. Maybe just use a rubber renewing oil or something like that, and let it soak in the rubber, but not use grease so that it will just be a bunch of grease on the surfaces to in fact collect dirt on those surfaces.
But then again, I presume these rubbers don't really need to be renewed with oils. And they're just changed when the time is right, together with other rubbers in the caliper system and probably together with the pistons and sliding pins.
Could someone explain why the brake pads are lubricated on the outside? I’ve just bought my pads and they have a 3M sticky paper I can remove and underneath is a sticky surface..
The 3 m sticky are even better it dosent move around lubercation is for those don’t have sticky 3m and it absorbs noise and metal to metal
@@RBTheMechanic Thanks for that. Appreciate your time. Keep uploading the videos! Cheers
@@6969SpAcE6969 yup thank you!
I like the way you blew the air. Who needs a blower? Ty Sir for sharing your knowledge
Yup thank u
I agree with your grease points for the most part except for a few exceptions like the surface of the back of the pad I would not have greased instead I would have went to the caliper and greased those points so that way you don't have a huge surface of grease on the pad that isn't even being touched and accumulates grime and dirt and also just a waste of grease in my opinion. I also like to put some lubricant on the face of the rotor in between the wheel studs. And not saying that yours needed it but generally I go a little crazier with wire brush.
silicone grease? Or should we prefer dielectric grease for caliper pins? I would be happy if you help
I like silicon grease
Any silicone grease with a melting point around or above 200 degrees is good. Generally dielectric greases don't meet this requirement. But if you find one you can use it.
I've watched a lot of these videos and it's funny how people vary in their method. Other people also grease on top of the pad clips or pad ears, and clean out the pin bores.
Hi sir, I have taken a brand new hyundai venue sx diesel model. I have noticed a slight sound while braking at a low speed but the sound only lasts for 200 metre maximum. Then it vanishes. I have taken to service center but they told everything is ok after inspecting.What should i do? Please reply to me .
Check ur brakes if they have life left could be rust or brake r low
@@RBTheMechanic They have checked but could not resolve.
What is the difference between the Stalube and CRC synthetic grease?
I like crc not sure if I can give u details but I been using crc
Do you need to remove the brake bleeder before you push the piston back in?
Nope
@@RBTheMechanic is that safe? I was informed it will mess up the master brake cylinder if forced in from the piston as done.
@@kito1san I never had an issue. However if that was the case then I would recomend calipers every brake job cuz 99.999% have siezed bleeder valve
But the CRC grease is silicone as well. Why use two different brands of the same thing? Also, did the dust boot come from the factory covered in silicone grease?
They r diffrent
I have used it, but better than CRC caliper grease on the mating faces of hub and rotor, is aluminum or copper antiseize (also under the heads of the retention screws). If aluminum wheels are mounted, this will make a later brake job much easier . Antiseize is a sacrificial material that won't attract or hold contaminants as any grease will, and it will oxidize slower than steel. The aluminum and copper oxides do not swell as much as iron oxide does and aren't as abrasive. Nickle antiseize is even better but very expensive. It's worth the effort to use foam swabs (qtips) to clean out the pin bores and use brake clean to flush away any old petroleum grease residue.
Cool
So anti seize better? I’m gonna do my own brakes soon but now I’m hesitant which is better the grease or anti seize
@@gmoneybags01 I would use anti seize on hub but greasing on everything else I show
@@RBTheMechanic thank you🤝
Great video excatly how ive been doing mine for yrs, teach right teach once ehh, must say I do grease the metal brake plates as we dont get them with our brake pads kits here in Australia top brands or not
Yup this works well never had come back
What about the top and bottom "ears" of the brake pads?
Yes u can do those also
Great Video and thank you for your time!
I have been using Liqui Moly Anti Squeak Paste and I got a terrific results. In Adittion to that I managed to put
A Special German Grease that can be 💉 injected under that boot in order to lubricate the Piston itself without taking it a Part.
My Unlce was a Mechanic for Mercedes-Benz for 31 Y and he told me about this Grease.
Grease Called (Bremszylinder- Paste) Comes only from Germany 🇩🇪
It's absolutely Great and made my Brake function like Brand New.
Oh ok
Can I use the same caliper grease you used on the hub for the pins?
Yes
Question, I am sure you know this but how come you do not have the bleeder screw open while pushing the piston back into the bore?, the caliper is the lowest point of the brake circuit and all the sediment and water will collect there which is heavier than brake fluid. The piston will also go back into the bore with less force when the bleeder screw is open and will draw in clean uncontaminated brake fluid..
Yes but what if bleeder valve dosent open what if it brakes and if u want to go through all that trouble it would be best to do brake flush and if u keep ur brake flush service up to date this shouldn’t need to be done and that is whole diffrent service I would not do that ever to be safe and not cause air to the systm
@@RBTheMechanic You will need to open all bleeder valves on all calipers to properly flush the lines, everything settles in the brake caliper, its the lowest point in the brake circuit, there is no way I would risk pushing all that sediment and water up into the ABS system and master cylinder which is asking for trouble. Small chance the bleeder valve will not come out, let it soak with WD-40 or similar.
He probably has the master cyl cap off. I don’t open the bleeder either unless it’s time to bleed all the brakes in the proper order.
@@johnmilner7603 It takes one second to crack open the screw, you never want to push what's sitting in the caliper up into the ABS and master cylinder, everything collects there cuz it's the lowest part of the brake circuit..
@@johnmilner7603 yup
I put some on the back of my pads because that’s what I’ve seen in your and other videos, but they had some textured polymer already on the back, so I doubt I the grease helps anything in that spot.
Yeah that’s fine
Some say anti seize some say grease it’s confusing which one is the preferred method?
Both r good I stick with grease cuz it moves better
Anti-seize is used to prevent the eventual rust buildup on metal to metal contact points from seizing the hardware (like mounting bolts and rotor-to-hub contacts), but it doesn't have the same lubricating properties as brake grease does. Brake grease is typically for brake-related contact points only (guide pins, pad edges, etc.) Not saying that RB is doing anything wrong, however.
Silicone lubricants usually suitable for temperature below 400F (200C).
It is more reasonable to use Ceramic based grease.
No grease on the back of the pads under any circumstances! And the only way I would concider putting grease under the hardware is if I lived in the rust belt. Between the rotor and hub and on the screw that holds the rotor a lite amount of anti-seize. And something alot of mechanics overlook is cleaning the old grease out of the holes that the sliding pins go in. If you just add new grease every brake job you could run into problems.
I see lots of mechanics putting grease on the back of the pads. Can you explain why everyone should stop doing that?
@@allent1034 the only people who put grease on the back of the pads are people who don't have any idea what they are doing. There is a product that was sold (and still might be) that was this orange stuff that was meant to go on the back of pads. It dried to a rubbery consistency and the idea was that it would help to suppress vibration which is what causes break squeak. I have had factory training from Ford and Toyota and have spoken with reps from brake parts manufacturers and none of them recommend using that stuff. I think the idea of putting grease on the back of pads comes from that? You will never see grease on the back of a pad of any brand new car. If you really thought about how hot your pads can get the grease will not stay, it will get all over the place including in/on places you definately don't want grease.
@@allent1034 I also put very thin coating grease on back of pads and they have been perfect for the last 40,000 miles here in the Northeast.
@@MarzNet256 I don't think it's any harm doing it or not doing it. I recently started using grease on the back of pads. Over about a month or so, the back of pads start collecting gum and dirt because of the grease.
@Kevin Barbaro I'm with you on this... the only things that contact the back of the pads are the piston and the caliper ears. If anything, only put grease on the ring of the piston and the caliper ears that contact the pads. Anything else is a waste and dust and dirt will stick to it.
Nice break job, keep up the good quality work!
Thanks, will do!
Are the greases interchangeable? Which grease was used behind the hardware
The silicon grease is only for the slider if u talking about the other grease u can use that all over but not silicon
what is the torque spec on hodna hrv 2020 on all bolts and sliper pins also i dont have the grease u are using i got a crc brake caliper and a a 3m silicone paste is it same yes
Not sure but if it’s made for it then ur good I do t have torques at the moment I’m away from my shop for few days
@@RBTheMechanic i see thanks will wait for your respond glad found your chaneel you do a very good explanations thanks alot really save me money and felling good if can do it my self thnaks so much
@@Hardenth50 yup thank you u can google the torque tho type in year make model
@@RBTheMechanic did not showing anything mostly crv civic etc no hrv so far darn
Love how you blew air bro! 😂 Good video and thanks again!
Any time! Lol
Can I use one of those greases for all. Or should I use the 2 different kinds that you use?
U can use one
Awesome thank you very much@RBTheMechanic
the area on the bracket where the brakes slide back/forth....is better NOT greased. Grease over time will dry up and collect dirt.....which can prevent the brakes from sliding normally and even can cause the brakes not fully slide back (as dried up grease/gunk is sitting there). It could even cause brakes to run hot if the pads cannot move off from the rotor enough through the gunk buildup. It's best to just clean and let it rust....rust will fall off, blow away letting the brakes move freely. Try it on your own car and you'll see the grease over time will dry up and you'll see why that's not a good situation. 😊
Als je 10 jaar met volgende service wacht wel.
On the last step, I grease the ears on the caliper and not the pad because dirt will begin to cling to the areas not covered by the ears. Same for the rear, just grease the piston/s and not the whole pad.
Yup thank you
How you likin that ac delco brake grease ? I seen good reviews on it.
Love it best thing I used
You shouldn’t grease the backs of the brake pads. Do you notice the factory doesn’t do this? Look at the factory shop manual. I’ll quote the one I’m using for the brake job I’m doing right now. “With the vehicle engine running, apply 89-133 N (20-30 lb) of pressure on the brakes for approximately one minute, to make sure the pads ADHERE to the caliper before any contaminants can be introduced.” The grease would be considered a contaminant.
Ok
Toyota brake was equipped with shim. I applied Toyota shim grease on the back of brake pad then clip the shim onto brake pad to reduce vibration.
Yes that’s I’ll make brakes back off better and work more silent
I like to open the bleeder screw when you push the piston in then hold then tighten screw. You can damage the master cylinder or ABS valve block pushing the old fluid back.
99.9999% of the time ur bleeder valve will snap and u owe the customer free new installed caliper
No way man, I always open that bleed screw. Otherwise you push dirt and water up into the ABS system and master cylinder. Calipers are a lot cheaper to replace than ABS solenoids and master cylinders. Brake fluid needs to be changed every so often anyways.@@RBTheMechanic
@@Mmonsart747 Nope RB is correct 99% of them will snap and 99% of them are too corroded to remove especially in the rust belt. You'll harm nothing by pushing the fluid back because it's designed to go back both ways. We do this for a living. Take your RUclips certification somewhere else.
@@MacAutoDiag Um, no, sorry. I’ve been a self employed foreign car repair technician for 40 years. Been there, done that, got the shirt. LOL.
@@Mmonsart747 cut the bs you're not fooling anyone