Front & Rear Z23 Evolution Sport Brake Upgrade Kit
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- In this video I bring you along as I "upgrade" Mrs.O's van with some of Rock Auto's Power Stop Z23 Evolution Sport brake pads and rotors. Is it really an upgrade? Will it really help with the rotors constantly "warping?" Time will tell but for now let's put them on and see how it goes. -Enjoy!
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What are your thoughts? Have you guys used these in the past and if so did you notice any difference in longevity? I am not looking for increased stopping power more than I am looking for a rotor that doesn't warp so fast. Let me know your experience!
-Eric O.
PS. Rock Auto #notasponsor so if they end up being rubbish you'll know about it 😅 That is the beauty of no sponsors, I can say what I want 🗽
I have used them multiple times. They do take a lot longer to warp than standard rotors. Solid choice
Yea I ran them. In my experience they were very smooth for a few weeks and stopping power was great. But they became really rough feeling after they wore in, especially when wet. My car has the same issue with the front rotors warping so I tried all different types of rotors/pads and they all eventually warped. I ended up going back to blank rotors. If they don’t work out try the raybestos specialty high carbon blank rotors on rock auto. Had them for months now, no warping and they’re smooth as glass. Just to add I’ve been running powerstop reman calipers for over 100k miles with no issues, so I’d say their quality is pretty good.
My semi indirect experience with them is that the rotors are your bog standard retail store parts grade chinesium junk castings with some pads that get glazed and slippery with actual hard use as I've changed out a few sets for unhappy customers over the years and driven quite a few cars with them thumping and sliding to a stop. For rotors that don't warp, like ever get the Centric 125 series high carbon Cryo-treated rotors. I've been running them on the front of my Celica for about 50,000 miles of severe abuse with rotor temps past 650F often and never a single bit of warp ever at all. Possibly the non treated 125's would be just as good, I see those are available on RA for the fronts. I'll look around, maybe TireRack will have the Cryo treated ones. Used to be sold under their StopTech line and might still be.
Unrelated to brakes, be aware that past (and probably current) versions of that 3.3 engine have issues with their VVT cam phasers rattling terribly at startup like a timing chain absolutely slapping around. Similar sound to the GM 3.6 when their phasers won't lock and I think a similar problem. It'll be about 3 seconds of the engine sounding like ate marbles.
Oh hey, we have the same shop chair!
@@huzudra high carbon is the way to go, the regular centric rotors warp just by looking at them.
Had them for over a year now... Overall satisfied with the performance and cleanliness... My OEM setup would coat my black wheels with rust and dust practically instantly. No longer an issue with these. The bite a little better when warm but nothing spectacular. Slotted and drilled will be a little noisy as well but you should know this by the time you purchase.... 8/10
You need to paint the calipers red to complete the package. Red paint is known to give another 15HP and 10ft shorter stops.
You beat me too it, I was thinking the same thing. Maybe even add some silver letters.
Would yellow or blue calipers give you an increase in HP as well😃
Yeah, everyone knows that.
and it might match her nail polish
Is the proportioning valve set up with too much front bias?
Hey Eric, congratulations on 701k subscribers! By far one of the top rated auto repair channels.
I have to disagree, it's the BEST auto repair channel. :)😀
I have to disagree with you both. The greatest channel is Scotty Kilmer.
@@taintoolreview4188 🤡
I also watch rainman Ray repairs. The 2 best auto repair channels in my opinion
@@jameshedrick605 I’ll have to check that one out
my new used car is a '19 Latitude with around 73K on the clock. it came with warped rotors at no extra cost. A trip through the Georgia mountains convinced me to replace the brakes. I got the Evolution brake kit, and I've never looked back. I followed the recommended brake in, and since then, they seem to haver gotten even better over the last 10K miles. I have had to perform several panic stops since these parts were installed, and I'm still here thanks to superior stopping. The warp has not returned. Highly recommended by me.
Just wanted to put my 2 cents into the powers top brakes, I have been using the on all 3 of my trucks, so far I have had no issues on any of them, no warping, seizing or any issues. Also I would add that there customer service is amazing, had a brake pad that was chipped die to shipping or whatever and they sent out replacement very quickly. Highly recommend.
Thanx for the intel🫡💯 I always have doubts buying new equipment 😅
I’ve used PowerStop brake caliper/rotor/pads kits on several of my cars. I love them.
I used this Power Stop set on a project truck that became my daily driver. After 40k pads and rotors are still good and truck stops way better then it did with factory brakes. 👍
Why do I have the feeling that Eric is going to seriously LOVE the overalls. Lol.. bet this isn’t the last we’ve seen of those!
he is not wearing them anymore
Eric O! Love your videos. Funny this happened to Mrs.O, because it's exactly what I'm dealing with my own truck. 78,000 miles on the original brakes (I don't like working on my own after everyone else's cars all day lol) So definitely not operator error. Brakes were almost gone, replaced rotors and pads as a pair. First set, Advics rotors and Akebono ProActs. 8k miles later, warpage. Returned those, got a set from O'Smileys on the house rotor and brake pad combo. 6k miles, warpage. Got Bosch quiet cast rotors and Bosch ceramic pads. Warpage after 6k miles. Went back to Advics rotors and instead went with their Advics Pads. (Advics is the OEM for 3rd genToyota Tacomas for both pads and rotors). When I did this last set, I did same as you for the most part. I cleaned the hub till it was spot free. Cleaned the piston to pad surface in the caliper ( double sided lockheed martin 4 piston calipers like the land cruisers) Dialed in the rotors to less than 0.001 runout (had to reposition one rotor to meet the spec) I did it the best anyone could (including removing any lubricant from the wheel studs and nuts and torqueing to spec), and finally broke the 8k mile mark. But now at 12k, I'm getting a little shake in the wheel again. Searched high and low to figure this out, done 100's of brake jobs and never had this happen so of course it's on my own vehicle. Can't say why I'm still going through this. Also tried different bed in procedures and only Advics procedure with their pads has lasted the longest. Eric, if you ever figure it out, I'd love to buy you a beer. Or some popsicles for the freezer lol.
maybe it's not the rotors/pads but the calipers/pistons...
or maybe the caliper assembly doesn't sit 100% centered on the rotor, and applies more force on 1 side...fix could be puting a washer...anyway...good luck
Eric
I’m a former ASE Master Technician
these days, I only work on my family’s vehicles
I’ve used these rotors/pad packages on three vehicles….. each time with excellent results!
Rockin the Bibs Eric! Most comfortable things you can wear, especially in the summer.
Saved me hundreds of dollars by watching your videos over the years. Had the money light on my 2011 Chevy Silverado for lean codes, checked the MAF sensor, low and behold a piece of lint in there. Blew it off the sensor and no more money light. So, thanks Eric for the knowledge you give us.
Nice You went full overalls! I used the powerstop kit version, they look the same. No shimmy but mine is heavier 80 series land cruiser.
Rocking the overalls. What brand are they?
Bernie or bern or something like that. I got a few different brands to try out. These are the ones that were the most comfortable do far.
@@SouthMainAuto you'll find a few brands that are very comfortable, and will also get better with more wear.
@@SouthMainAuto liberty and berne and Carhartt and Dickies...growing up we had pointer brand made in Bristol ,tn we're the mainstay in the south till they priced themselves out...were $ 135 a pr.... Now it's liberty's for me and carhartt
@@SouthMainAuto the overalls will likely cure the rotor problem . :) haha. Ms "O" gets the " good stuff" for the crew and animal safety rig . Looking forward to the info progress on the as it goes , journey . Great video Eric, thank you .
@@SouthMainAuto Ah Berne. I have a pair of their brown duck overalls here.
It is my pleasure to say hello,
I am retired Pharmacist and you and your videos are the best. I will now attempt install of Power Stop pads and rotors, trans drain w/new filter and flush, transfer case and diff... on wife's Rav4. She will be able to stop faster on her 1 mile runs to the grocery store. Thank you for helping and educating many vehicle owners. 😊
Love the bibs 😁
Recently replaced the brakes on my granddaughters 2014 MDX with parts from Rock Auto decent parts and price. She opted out of the high performance parts😊
(Whoever did them last didn't put the spreader springs on the pads.)
Those spreader springs do nothing. Make sure your slide pins are free and clean, and the pistons on the caliper aren't seized. Springs won't help if brakes aren't releasing as they should.
My brand new 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee had the same problem with the front brakes back in 1999. When the rotors got overheated they warped. After doing several rotor replacements I learned that the problem was slowing down from 70 mph to 10 mph on expressway/highway off ramps. So, I adjusted my driving style on off ramps. One brief push on the brakes to slow from 70 mph to 40 mph, let the rotors cool for a few seconds, and then another push on the brakes to bring the Jeep to a stop. Never warped a rotor after that.
Bingo......I live in PA and have several long downhill grades I travel on and smoked my rotors on 1 drive by riding my brakes all the way down...Now I pump them a couple of times and let them cool in between.....the grade is a couple of miles long...
"Brand new" 1999 Jeep
@@dissje165 believe it or not in 1999 a 1999 jeep was considered brand new…
Yep. My mom used to have problems warping the rotors on her van. Her drive to work was about 15 miles on interstate so the rotors had plenty of time to cool before getting used to slow to a stop on the off-ramp. A change in driving habits can help. Ultimately part of the problem is that minivans are based on car parts so the extra weight can heat the brakes quicker. Larger diameter and heavier rotors tend to be the best solution.
I was a mechanic for Mack Trucks. Inc. The recommended braking method of all the truck manufacturer's was hard application to bleed some speed then completely off to cool, and repeat as necessary to stop. Moderate, constant application was not acceptable. The brake components would overheat that way.
I learned my lesson on bedding the pads on a cross drilled and slotted rotor. Put a set on an 06 Mustang GT and the first time I used the brakes it shuddered horribly. Called the company and they walked me through their bedding procedure - 10 hard stops from 60 mph. Brakes felt perfect at that point. Have never had to do this process on any standard rotor in 45 years of brake changes.
Yep. I remember having to do a certain procedure similar to that when I changed to drilled & slotted rotors also.
I’m sure that Mrs O will take care of that!
Yeah I've had to do some hard break ins for drilled and slotted brakes. Worth it though. Bedding them in nice and aggressively, and a couple heat cycles makes them very happy and wear very evenly.
Brake pads have ALWAYS required bedding in.
That said, the problems created by not bedding the pads are exacerbated by:
Floating rotors as opposed to stub axles and bearings.
Brake pad compositions having to be changed from asbestos and the nightmare of developing suitable bonding agents and resins. (Which they still haven't got completely sorted and are still experimenting with)
The Chinafication factor. Poor quality castings, green castings being machined into rotors, every possible corner cut.... just china in general.
Not to mention steering and geometry changes in newer cars. Car's are tinnier, more prone to flex and resonances, poor caliper designs - especially in single acting calipers with slides.... on and on it goes. Now things like bedding procedures are imperative.
Most pads have a procedure printed on the box.
No better way to spend a Saturday night, watching SMA, after doing battery change, transmission fluid drain and fill, and some fog lamp wiring with shrink wrap fittings… Learned so much your channel Eric!! Getting my daughter’s car ready for my 1300 mile drive from Toledo to Florida to move her to college next month!!! If you can do it, I can do it!!!
I put Powerstop Z23 pads with drilled and slotted rotors on my 2014 Ford Focus ST, front and rear. I am very impressed with the improvement in braking without noise. I had tried upgraded front brake pads from another company and they always squeaked and howled at every stop. I tried another set of front pads, including new rotors, and new pins, etc. They still squeaked and howled at every stop. I tossed those and went to Powerstop Z23 pads with new drilled and slotted rotors. Excellent braking with no noise. I next installed new Z23 pads with drilled and slotted rotors for the rear brakes. Again an improvement in braking with no noise. I have since installed Z23 pads F & R on my kids’ 2003 Honda Accord with new plain rotors, and my son-in-law loves the improved braking. I have also used them on a 2016 Ford Focus front on plain rotors and Z36 pads F & R with drilled and slotted rotors on my2002 Ford Excursion. Love the brakes. Now I must state that pad longevity is not an issue about which I care; the improved braking is why I purchase brake pads. However, I have not noticed that they wear any faster than other brakes. Joe
Power Stop rotors and Akebono pads, can't go wrong! Love the overalls.
Just used Akebonos on my 14' Fusion with new standard rotors. When new, the brakes were absolutely awesome. When the brake job was performed and this break in procedure done, that feeling returned... I am definitely happy with the results.
Eric, I've used Powerstop brakes on my Camry's for the past 10 years. I love their products! I find the stopping power to be about 20% better and the wear is about the same; at least 20% longer lasting. The only problem I've had in 10 years (or about 4 brake changes over 3 different cars) is the last set of front brake pads were drilled oversized for the springs and the springs kept coming out. They have a lifetime warranty on manufacture defects so I'm waiting a bit to replace them. Otherwise, they've been great!
I see you followed through and got the overalls!
I think sometimes there are cars that just go through brakes. But OTOH, my wife and I typically go > 100,000 miles on the factory brakes. We're both conservative (IE "granny") drivers. We also have never replaced a clutch, the current car has > 206,000 miles on the factory clutch, and in 40 years of car ownership driving cars from new until they rust out, we have replaced ONE drivetrain component, a thermostat in the 206K Fusion. Both children of depression kids, we drive the cars like we need them to last forever.
I know people who need new brakes every 15K. Having ridden with them I know why too.
Do you know what overalls he got, could use them, thanks.
"I see you followed through and got the overalls!" Am I the only one who laughed at that ?
@@paulleeson1218 Nope
@@paulleeson1218 They're bib overalls. They fit in better with Avoca's rural setting. :D
@@aaronjohn6586 think he said Berne
I put the Power Stop Z36 kit on my 2003 Silverado 2500HD in 2017. 165,000 miles later they still work great. No more warped rotors.
I've been running the Power Stop brakes on my F250 Super Duty 7.3 Diesel in excess of 5 years. In that time I've towed numerous heavy loads as well as this is my daily driver. You'll not be disappointed!!!
I also put them on my son's Dodge Ram 2500 Mega Cab. As with my Ford they are GREAT! The stopping capability has been increased without affecting drivability. I realize your video is over a year old and hope you have similar success on Ms.O's vehicle. Keep the videos coming they're always good.
I use the Powrstop brake kit on my 2013 Cruze and I live in a pretty hilly environment where I use the brakes a moderate amount pretty much everyday and they've held up well. The standard cast iron ones I had on when I bought the car didn't last all that long. They would start to shudder after a couple stopping events. The Z23 kit works well, and I did notice it stops better than factory 👍
I switched to those on my '08 Durango for the same reason well over 5 years ago. I've haven't had an issue with them at all. It was worth it to me. Brakes much better also.
I put a set of these on my 2016 Civic, which I daily in NYC, use for spirited driving, and one autocross. I have had them on for about 2 years and 40k miles. So far, very impressed. No warping and very little dust. Although I did have fade after the autocross day.
Kenne, year down the road so you may not see this.
Had a 2000 Mustang I open tracked. Built motor (dynoed about 312 @ rear wheels), coilovers & upgraded rear links, stiffened chassis, Cobra brakes all 4 corners, stainless steel brake hoses. My solution for fade was a high-temp brake fluid (Motul brand IIRC). Don't remember for sure but it was DOT 5.1 full synthetic with a much higher boiling point (200* F?) than DOT 3. Even with perfect bleeding, zero air in the lines, you can experience fade after extended use as the brake fluid boils and outgasses bubbles. Being vapor, they're compressible.
Track days we generally did 10 to 12 laps of a 1.7 mile course, more twisty than straight. I braked hard enough at the end of the one long straight (about 90MPH in my car) to superficially crack the front rotor surfaces, even impressing the ZO6 owner riding with me. Abut a sixteenth inch deep. Didn't warp, used them another 18K street miles & more track days before replacement.
The hi-temp fluid & stainless steel lines provided a very firm pedal which 'came in' high in the pedal travel & remained there thru multiple laps & street driving. I did change it before track days, emptying the resivoirs to just above the brake lines, refilling with new fluid, bleeding the brakes while adding add'l fluid.
I upgraded brakes, suspension & tires before building the engine. I wanted all the cornering & stopping ability I could manage before adding power.
Hope you see this & find it useful.
I'm a technician myself and a big fan of the channel. I've had power stop calipers, drilled And slotted rotors and ceramic brake pads on my 1999 Buick century for over 3 years. The pads are still 8mm on either side and the rotors are amazing with no warps. And we're talking FRONT DISC ONLY brakes. The rears are drums and haven't been adjusted. And I also drive like a bat out of hell. I will use power stop the next brake change!
Bought them for my truck. I took that break-in procedure and now use it on all brake jobs I do regardless of brand. I am a happy customer.
I used drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads on my ‘11 Ford Ranger with the same break in procedure you used and after 10,000 or so miles I like them a lot. Very even stopping, something I did not have with the factory brakes
Love the overalls! I’ve had power stops for a good long time (4 years) and I think they have done great.
Ditto on the overalls☺
I've been using Powerstop products for a while now. Had them since I bought my 2000 GMC Yukon Denali, and so far I've been very happy. The brake pads lasted me well over 60K miles. Rotors as well, still on the same pair actually.
You will be very satisfied with these brakes. My 2013 f150 Ecoboost had issues wearing too much on the inside of the rotors, did not like the idea of replacing the rotors at every oil change....We upgraded to the evolution brake kit with calipers at 20k miles, I tow boats and trailers frequently and am somewhat aggressive on the brakes. We are now at 150k miles and still have 75% brake life left with no signs of pulsing or uneven wear.
The only challenge was the proper break-in procedure, you do need a lot of road to complete properly! But once properly done: WOW awesome upgrade! I wonder if we can order new vehicles with these? LOL!
Keep up the GREAT content!
Hello there Scott, I have a repair shop out here in California. I started using these products exclusively on all of my brake jobs when they were introduced to me by my local parts representative about four years ago. My experience with them was basically this. No rotor warpage or wear to speak of, unfortunately I experienced premature pad wear out at about 100%. On a positive note if you have people looking for a pad that produces little to no brake dust you have found the best pad for that. I've put that pads only and not the rotors on several show vehicles and those customers couldn't be happier. Good luck to you and Mrs.O on your new brakes.
Hi, really enjoy and appreciate your instructive videos! My wife had the same issue with OE brake rotors warping after 6k miles of daily driving the mountains of western North Carolina. She’s a pretty aggressive breaker. Replaced with Power Stop Z23 rotors and pads and, so far after 15k, no sign of warping and good stopping action. I’m satisfied so far. Performed break-in as called for by manufacturer. Thanks again
I had these on my Focus ST and loved them. They lasted a long time and had minimal brake dust.
Hey Eric, I put these on my 2011 Mazda 2 due to it warping the OE front rotors and other replacements very early on. So far I have put around 8,000 miles on it and they have been great. Smooth stops with no pulsing or pulling and very little pedal pressure required. The kit I received came with new boots and rubber o-rings for the caliper pins as well. Love them so far and really enjoy watching you repair autos. I’m an electronics tech and love the way you breeze through electrical issues on so many different brands and types of vehicles. Keep up the good work, you are much appreciated!
I’ve been using Powerstop brand rotors and pads for several years now on several different vehicles. I’ve used the high-end cross drilled slotted rotors on multiple suburbans that I tow with, with great success. Several of my friends have on them on their trucks based on my experience. I have been very happy with them. I’ve also started using their OE equivalent rotor/pad combo on my other vehicles. I have been very happy. I’ve put the OE equivalent on my Nissan Sentra, a mercury mariner, and a 1994 dodge ram. I even put a set on my fathers Honda Odyssey minivan after my brother told him how well my suburban 2500 stopped with them. So don’t feel silly about putting them on your wife’s minivan! You can’t beat the price, and the quality is excellent. They have outlasted anything else I’ve ever put on my vehicles.
Put them on my 2008 F150 2 years ago they are great. I haul a 28' enclosed with race car, golf cart and tools. They have worked flawlessly. "I did follow the break in"
I've used em in the past and they work great, towards the end of life I've seen cracking. I picked up some dynamic friction high carbon drilled and slotted and so far they're wonderful. I have some s groove ones on my daily driver that have treated me very well the past couple years as well. I always opt for the coated variants being in the midwest, it helps.
I also have a Kia sedona. I was having the same problem and I put the same rotors and pads on the front, 1 year in so far so good
I have used them for a few years on my 08 Tundra. I used the Extreme towing and they work very well. I live in Ohio and do a lot of hauling (trailers, boats, etc.)
I have had them on my Suburban for the last 4 years work great, don't warp, and have excellent stopping power. Living in upstate NY, they have been great. I love them. I will be using them again. You just need to ensure that everything is cleaned up and lubed up well to keep them free moving.
I put the power stop kit on my 2016 Silverado about 3 months ago. I opted for the none drilled rotors. I got them thru auto zone. So far so good.
That sounds like a good break-in procedure for all brands of brakes.
Hey Eric, you might want to check out your control arm bushings. I noticed that when you were torquing the lug nuts your wheel had excessive play front to back. Which as you know is an indicator of worn out control arm bushings. Which will also amplify the effect of warped rotors. Also, nice overalls! 👍
Think that's just the normal flex of steering wheel when tighten them down. If that was the case of worn bushings causing the vibration, he would get it right away on the new pads and rotors
@@kwmiked I wasn't saying that worn out bushings caused the vibration. I was saying that they could amplify the effect of the vibration. Also that's not steering system movement. If that was so the tire would move in and out not front to back in relation to the car. Also when you torque the wheels it is a twisting force on the wheel. The same force you're putting on the nut. Not a push in or out force. That's why when you torque Wheels they never move in and out as in moving the steering system. I know this because I have torqued thousands of wheels.
i did that power stop kit on my old bmw 3 series a few years back and they were really nice, stopped a lot better and the pedal felt much more consistent, was pretty reasonably priced too.
I use these pads and rotors on my 05 Suburban and I noticed a huge difference in braking performance.
I tow a 14x7 enclosed motorcycle trailer and its a big help on stopping when towing.
Thanks, Eric.
I have used RockAuto for the past 3 years for parts (almost all for PREVENTIVE MANTENANCE) for my 2003 Toyota / Lexus SUV (which I purchased from a dealer in 2019 with 112K on the clock). Just did the 120K service. Rock Auto "OEM" parts have all worked well for me; e.g. Plugs, Coils, VVT Solenoids, MAF Sensor, hood & deck struts, etc.
I also used Rock Auto for some 10 years for my old 1992 Caravan ... happy then, too!
I am NOT a mechanic, but as an Electronic / Mechanical Field Engineer (fixing things from huge RADARS with big gears ... to little Radios inside operational and test Aircraft on Military Air Bases ... I am VERY SLOW when fixing things - on purpose. In that past world the game was RELIABILITY ... lucky for me, it also paid well !
A few decades ago, while in the "design lab" waiting for my newly-minted security clearance, I was given a large crate full of "Destroyed" (and delicate and expensive receiver antennae. I spent a few WEEKS speaking with the flight and maintenance crews, then determined the problem was a "random mix" of slow relays. The high power transmitter could "Fire" before the sensitive little receiver antenna was "disconnected". (actually it was a blown diode on the PCB so all were able to be repaired ... to save ~$50K ea for the 30 or so blown units)
In THAT case, I designed a delay module (for the transmitter; ~30ms to save the system, but too short for the Flight Crew to notice during Radio / ADF usage ... to compensate for any "Slow" disconnect relays. (aka Solenoids). I was told" "Good thing you are going into the field ... you are too slow to stay here and design new parts for us!"
While I do service and fix my own Vehicles, I always need to compensate for ... and just accept my OCD/Anal (aka SLOW) behavior. i.e. I need to study the overall design and implementation (for hours). Then I debug the symptom or wear history ... and a ton of tracing and trouble shooting with meters, etc. .... only then do I fire (mostly only once) the "Parts Canon" :-)
As a mechanic in a shop, I would starve to death; I could not even try to "beat the clock".
Back to the "Short-Life Rotors", my immediate thought (because of your multiple past changes) and KNOWN GOOD WORK, ERIC ... was ... "Cheap Wheel Bearings" (i.e. "mechanical eddy-currents" "micro-pulsing" the rotors). i.e. High-Frequency Pulsations 90 degrees out of phase with the rotational speeds and (lower frequency) "vibrations" of the larger and heavier parts. (But over time, enough to "EAT at the Rotors".
BTW: My hat is off to IJM !
Just before submitting this, I have scrolled down using a google search for "Wheel Bearings" and found: IJM's comment: "... changed both front wheel bearings and the problem went away."
hmmm
Warm Regards to all,
John in the NW
I went down this same path with an ‘07 Odyssey EX-L… shaky steering wheel, warped rotors, etc. So I did the same kit on all four wheels, and was very pleased with the initial results. Unfortunately, I can’t give you the long-term experience since the car was totaled three weeks later when a guy pulled *right* out in front of me. 😑Anyway, I hope this solves your problem. My thinking was the same - the brakes on these minivans are just not sized up quite enough, and get too hot. Hopefully the slotted and drilled rotors will stay cool enough not to warp.
The brakes on my 2012 Odyssey worked fine until the dealer rotated the tires and improperly torqued them. They got it fixed, then the dealer replaced a front axle, and messed them up again. No more issues in the past 100,000 miles, but then again, the dealer hasn’t touched it since.
The Odyssey are very touchy when it comes to improper torque. They don’t like impact wrenches.
well, your brakes didn't work good enough if you didn't stop in time to avoid hitting him. sorry, cheap shot.
@@jasonmarks1636 😂 believe you me, there was barely time to move my foot from the gas to the brake before the impact, so the new brakes never had a chance to help.
It's been my experience that there is some kind of natural law about that. Whenever I put new tires on a vehicle I drive very carefully for a while to avoid crashes. The natural law is that just as soon as you put expensive repairs or upgrades to a vehicle it is more likely to suffer a fatal crash. At least it seems to me to be that way.
@@shadetreemech290 ditto on tires... the world wants to collide with me the second I leave the shop.
I've had similar issues with brakes on a Holden Commodore here in Australia.
I found that 'racing' pads with the break-in procedure you mentioned was the cure.
The worst set lasted 6 months. Those pads had a 'no break in' strip of crap on the friction face.
I have power stop drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads on my 07 Ram 1500 pickup. They have been on there 30 thousand miles and are still working great. BTW nice overalls!
ALL THESE DRILLED / SLOTTED ARE A WASTE OF MONEY FOR THE AVERAGE CITY VEHICLES ...THEY ARE MADE FOR HI SPEED ,,,, UNDER A HI SPEED THEY DO NOT WORK ..... RESEARCH IT ...
I have a 13 and been eyeing these but im not a fan of ceramic pads. Ill be using something like sintered or semi metallic
@@blue03r6 semi metallic pads have much greater stopping power, but tend to eat your rotors a bit more and create more dust.
@@jamram9924 the dust I don't agree with. if I could upload pics to youtube I'd prove it. ceramic pads produce 2 times more dust than any semi metallic pad I've ever had. and the sintered pads produces almost none
@@blue03r6 perhaps the pads you installed but most ceramic pads were designed to reduce brake dust and reduce the use of toxic metals into the environment. Ceramic pads can vary in content of materials and complexity from manufacturer to manufacturer. I don’t like to use them on trucks because I’ve tried them time after time and they don’t have the stopping power as well as ceramics.
Used to have a 2004 Acura TL manual with 6 piston Brembo’s on its and has the same issue. Warping within a few thousand miles of changing rotors.
Finally upgraded to Centrix drilled & slotted and never warped another rotor and drove it like maniac for 200k.
How the upgrade solves Mrs. O’s NASCAR drives to baseball practice 😉.
Thanks for the many years of great teachings!
I’ve used this same combo on Camry & CR-V to help with warping from braking on long down hill commutes and so far I’m very satisfied !!
I've had this, multiple disk / pad combo's all suffering brake judder in 4 or 5k. Even good brands like Brembo and Pagid....Brembo went the longest !
I changed calipers, caliper brakets, hardware....checked for runout multiple times, and still suffered judder after a short while.
Then I discovered I wasn't suffering with warping of the disks, but uneven wear, I could Diat Test 1 side of a disk and "see" warpage, but the other side of the disk was still. flat and even!....I bit the bullet and changed both front wheel bearings and the problem went away.
GOOD ADVICE ! ! !
Wheel bearing is not usually the thing that most mechanics will think of...... but they definitely will cause you problems if worn OR out of adjustment!
I had some years on the FWD Fords in the 1990's where wheel bearing checks were part of the procedure for cars that had brake issues. We would sometimes find play up and down at the wheel and tire that could be removed by retorquing the axle nut.
We sometimes had premature inner tie rod looseness that was upgraded by a bulletin for improved parts over the TRW ones being supplied as OEM. The upgrade Ford parts solved these issues and they supplied a lathe which was used to match machine on the car.
The ones you could not fix were customers choice equipped with custom wheels with a distorted wheel bolt circle. It was unwelcome information and had to be proved with substitution of a stock set of wheels and tires borrowed from a new car or used car that had no verifiable issue.
Hope this older info helps someone, but it later became policy to find out the located runout or variation and use only a new part(s) as the bulletins applied to each model.
Calling for the same solution on multiple units was helping affect the rules about fixing with saved labor as a result. The parent company analyzed this aspect in their writing of bulletins and policy.
Decisions of management needed guidance in their experience.
Don't feel bad if you're having issues.
But check the possibilities of the parts you automatically take for granted and remove and reinstall. Or believe can't cause issues and leave unchecked. It's the way fixing a car differs from just changing parts. A wise old man will rest in peace if you do this perhaps. I know Eric O already does the things by procedure using the knowledge we gained as cars we witnessed design changes in, and all the tools we had to buy, and products we had to use through the last forty or fifty years.
Now he is after who makes better parts.
Once in a while I would find a brake pedal pad worn off on the left.
Then all bets are off.
Nice job I’ve done a lot of brake jobs in my life but that’s a new procedure if it works that’s good enjoyed watching👍
Nice brake job and nice overalls ! Blessings 🙏
Greetings Eric, have used the Power Stop on my last 3 vehicles, the first time after brake change I backed out of the garage and tried to drive around the block I didn't make it 500 ft and immediatly pulled back in garage and just knew I really screwed something up because of the screeching and shuttering being emmitted from the brakes. After checking everything out Idrove the car and did the brakein procedure and everything worked great. Should have a BIG warning at the beginning of instructions to warn you before driveing the car on brakein drive. Your channel is inspireing to all of us mechanics, THX Ed
I've used these and have done the break in procedure on a back country road. The Amish kept looking at me funny when slamming my breaks on! These brakes have treated me well.
Freeballing in the summer heat is a whole new kind of comfort!
Now if I could only figure out where to get you some Pakistani pajamas and safety sandals.... 😉
I am starting with bibs.... might work my way up to the Pakistani man dress and safety sandals by then end of summer....
@@SouthMainAuto I know I could find some in Dearborn but I've got no ideas for central NY.
Hope you and your whole tribe have a great 4th weekend! 🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲🇺🇲
@@SouthMainAuto I'm very tempted to send you some just for the lolz! 😆
When I was tracking (road course) my C5 Corvette Z06 I was running ceramic pads and different rotors for the street than what I used on the track.
I was using OE rotors and Carbotech performance pads for the track. Pads and rotors are consumables if you track the car, so I was buying several sets.
This leads me to my discovery. Raybestos does a lot of OE stuff. The stock OE rotors for my C5 Z06 were made by Raybestos and sold by different brands. The NAPA OE rotors and the Brembo OE replacements were both made by Raybestos. I wouldn't be surprised if other companies were doing the same.
I was picking up a set of 4 OE rotors back in the mid 2000's for just $100 at NAPA. I even took one set and had a friend slot them and then zinc coat them for street use with quiet, low dust ceramic pads.
Your zinc coated rotors didn't need cleaning because the zinc coating is in place of the cosmoline they normally put on the rotors to help prevent rust while the part is on the shelf.
The added benefit of the zinc coating is that the rust will be minimal now on the edges and hat of the rotor even if you drive it in the winter.
The next thing to try if these rotors warp is to install a set of cryo treated rotors on the front.
I'm sure that you told Mrs. O. how careful you were installing the brakes all around and you are so glad that she now has a great breaking system that makes you worry less about her and the kids safety !!!! And you did it out of your LOVE 🥰 for her !!! You want to keep her around FOREVER !!!!! And ask her every so often how the improved braking system is working because you LOVE 😍 and care about her and the kids safety !!! It is the truth !!!! Such a caring husband, cost is no object when it comes to the wife !!!!!! You da man, Eric !!!!!!! 😃
Thanks for the demonstration of the break-in of the brakes. I just replaced all of my brakes and fluid. I instinctively drove a similar break-in, but I didn’t quite drive as hard. I rode the brakes a little to heat them up an feel for any pulling. I did some aggressive braking. I was also concerned with not coming to a complete stop. However, I didn’t go much faster than 30 as I was driving near residential and away from any highways.
It is good to hear some rationale as to breaking them in as apposed to my feeling of how I should treat newly installed brakes. I wish I had seen this video when you posted it, as that was one week before I installed the brakes as apposed to one week after. (I mixed up the date of this video, I guess I practically did see it when you posted it.) I think I can still run the break-in procedure as I have only driven about 4 miles and really didn’t heat up the brakes that much. I am also still sensitive to really coming to a full stop with the new brakes. So far they feel great.
The brakes I installed were ‘better’ or ‘best’ from AutoZone for my son’s Ranger. However I picked up the identical brand and model Evolution Z23 for my F150. I will definitely follow the break-in on the F150, but won’t be installing for a while. I have been sitting on the set for almost 2 years as the F150 has low mileage and doesn’t get driven that much. I got them at a great discount.
For vehicles that warp rotors, these are my choice, I've had good luck with them! They stop better than OEM, last longer & minimum brake dust! Thanks for the video!
Mr. O and his new overalls! Lol
I got a set for my Pontiac, the Powerstop front and rear drilled and slotted rotors, their "extreme" carbon/ceramic brakes, and red caliper set. Had them on for a few months now and they've been great, other than the slight quiet "card in bicycle spokes" sound when you hit the brakes as expected from slotted rotors, zero issues..
Can't really tell any difference in casual braking compared to my previous ceramic brakes and smooth rotors, however when you SLAM your brakes or need to stop in a hurry, boy do they bite hard and stop you on a dime.
Even when it rains, they perform just as well as if it were dry, although slow speed braking (i.e. stop and go traffic) during rain, they tend to bite when you come to a stop.. the water seems to cause them to bite somewhere sub 2 mph as you will come to a sharp stop and hear an audible brakes biting into the rotor sound.
So may want to let Mrs.O know about these quarks (slight card in spoke sound and the brakes biting when wet) so it doesn't catch her off guard and she thinks something is wrong with the brakes, when in reality they are just working as intended or working too good and she has you needlessly inspect them.
I put this kit on my Toyota Camry a few years ago for the same reason. It was also warping rotors. Definitely fixed the issue. They've been on there for 50k miles so far and have worked flawlessly. Ended up putting the same kit on my Wrangler and have seen the same results. I tow a utility trailer with the Jeep quite a bit and noticed much better performance as well. Awesome brakes.
Nice overalls Eric! Love the channel! I put a Powerstop stock replacement kit on my 2014 Honda Civic, last year when it hit 100K. I have put 15,000 on them since installtion. Had a bit of noise for a short tine after break in but since they have been great. The OEM replacement kit is not as high tech as what you installed, but I was going for economy. (It's a Civic sedan with a 1.8L, not exactly a screamer.) I am very happy with my choice. Good luck. Keep up the good work. JV Elk Grove CA
I put a set of those on my 05 Colorado before my last trip to Florida from Illinois and noticed a huge difference, especially in the mountains of Tennessee! 5-7k miles later and they are still performing perfectly and even better than OEM.
I had the same problem with my 14 Subaru Forester XT and I switched to those exact rotor and pads kit. These are much more resistant to warping, but you can warp them if you push them hard. I drive down mountain canyons filled with curves, so it’s hard on any brakes. I really like the though … better braking and very warp resistant
Rock Auto has a great selection of brake, and other parts. Their coated calipers hold up excellently. I put a set on my son's car, 3 years ago, and besides some dust and road grime, they look brand new. The downside to using Rock, is that they kill you on the shipping sometimes, and their coupon codes yield about $1.27, even on a pretty large order.
Eric, I’ve had power stop pads and rotors on my ‘94 Mustang GT front and rear for two years now and I’ve had no problems whatsoever. They produce almost no brake dust and they stop so much better. They dissipate heat so good! They run about 20 to 30 degrees cooler than factory rotors. I hope you have good luck with yours!
Used these on several vehicles and have had GREAT experience with the power stops.
Give us an update on your better half brakes so far any wobble on the steering wheel?
A year later, how's it going?
No news is good news.
I used to go through rotors at least once a year on a Toyota T100 I had. I put the drilled and slotted rotors and some hawke pads and it never warped again. I gave it to my son and it now has close to 100k on the setup and still going strong
My daughters 2010 Honda Pilot was doing exactly the same as Mrs. O's. A lot of pulsation, brakes weren't worn, no runout etc. So I put a complete set of Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors and ceramic pads on the SUV three years ago, and it has been fine since then. Hope it works out as well for you.
It's been about a year. How are the brakes doing?
I used powerstop brakes on my old subie with great results. My new Honda Passport showed signs of warped rotors right from the factory. Just had the dealer resurface the rotors, but the next time it happens (I’m anticipating fairly soon as most oem rotors aren’t made as good as they used to be), I’m going to replace them with a powerstop kit that is heavier duty.
I’ve used PowerStop on several vettes and Camaro 1LEs as well as our Jeep Commander. We are pretty hard on them and no issues at all with warping or depositing. They’re excellent for the street, you’ll like them. No dust either!
It's been over a year, how did the brakes hold up?
I put these on my moms RAV4, the pad surface was much smaller than the OEM. Mrs O is lucky to have you!
I Use power stop brakes, and they have been amazing for me. I won't use any other brake pad or rotor. I am about to do an upgrade to the Z23 street performance calipers on my 2013 Dodge Dart 2.0L. They last alot longer than just your standard gold pads from napa, Autozone. Yes I definitely noticed a difference in stopping power. There great brakes Mr O you won't be disappointed. God Bless and have a wonderful day...
Running those rotors with Wagner Thermoquiet pads on our 94 Nissan Altima. So far, so good. Rock Auto is solid.
I started using Power Stop brakes about 2 years ago and have installed them on 5 cars. I don't use their drilled and slotted however being that I live in the rust belt I use their Geomet coated rotors and ceramic pads. So far on the cars I've put them on I've had good success with them. No brake noise and low amounts of brake dust that I can tell. Their rust preventative coating seems to work well as the one vehicle I have them on that does more sitting than driving seems to have minimal rust on the rotors. If it does its simply surface rust that'll get burned off first time out again. So for me I like Power Stop and they will continue to be my go to personally when I need to look for brakes for either my car or others. I have had more luck recently buying them for cheaper off of Amazon than Rock Auto however.
My personal car is due soon for front brakes being that the rotors are worn and its been 3 years since I've changed them. I think for my car I will be giving Centric's rust coated rotors and posi quiet pads a try and see how they are.
Put those on my 2005 2500HD. Stock was pretty weak when pulling our camper ( 34' ). Chose the kit that included the calipers ( fancy red ). Took camper from east coast of Florida to SW Ft. Worth TX. All included 3000 miles with some pretty aggressive stopping on I-10 and I-20. All worked better than expected. Would highly recommend them.
I have used powerstop on my subaru legacy and have had great luck with this brand...after 5 years and almost 50k miles rust is minimal and no warping...just replaced pads with same kind and like new again...appreciate your in depth repairs and that never give up attitude. keep up the good work !!
I put a similar kit on my 2001 Lincoln Town Car, and it definitely made a difference, the one thing I did notice, the more I use the car the better the brakes work. I changed mine 2 years ago. Personally I think they are worth the price. I also changed the brake fluid so maybe had an effect as well.
If you get on the brakes hard, the anti lock system kicks in very quickly. I only changed the front brakes, I can get the Same brakes for the rear. I don't need them yet.
Greetings Eric O, have used Power Stop brake kits on 3 different cars in the past. The first time I completed the brake job and pulled the car out of the garagr and drove around the block and OMG, It was horriable noises coming from the brakes, pulled back in garage and looked for what I hade done wrong! To my suprise all looked good so back out and preceded to do brake in of pads. MUCH TO MY SURPRISE ALL NOISES AND SHUDDERS DISAPPEARED. Great product, highly recommend and love your channel. keep up the great work.
Hey Eric. I used drill n slotted n and ceramic pads (was a kit from power stop) ordered from Ebay, yes I know how U feel about Ebay but over 1 yr now no troubles. Best $85.00 spent also plus mechanics shop installed 4 me. Did have to cut rotors small amount to true them up. I have to admit they did change my safety factor well over 100%. The stopping power is right here right now. Did take some adjustment from myself. Also have drum brakes in rear New also so I use parking brake after done driving every time, releasing right away. Drums be very warm. About 15 miles city n freeway at 65 mph so heat in AZ to home is tough on my brakes. Yes I support power stop drill n slotted n ceramic pads. Have 2008 Ford 4wd Escape. You won't be sorry money well spent.
I’ve been using AutoZone rotors and their ceramic pads on my 01 ford excursion. The excursion brakes in my option are under sized witched caused the tutors to warp about as fast as your mini van. The rotors come with a 3 year warranty and the pads have a life time warranty. Both hold up very well and getting warranty replacements is very easy. In fact rotors and pads is all I buy at AutoZone.
I work for a public transit agency and I can tell you from experience you made the right choice. My local parts houses won’t stock power stop so I order them online. My biggest brake offender is the ford transit 350. They will chew through rear brakes in 6k and ruin the rotors as well with the OEM as well as all the major brands. I ended up switching the entire fleet to the Z26 heavy truck/ambulance brakes and am now seeing 30k on a set of pads and the rotors are still true. A bonus is all the brake dust went away. I have to admit I take great delight in your fight with rust and corrosion as it makes my frustration on current projects seem petty. May you and your family have a great Independence Day
I've used both the Z17 pads and Z23 rotor/pad combo kits. I like 'em. They're solid, quality, and your nifty little included instructions there show there's some forethought that maybe just maybe someone that doesn't have a clue might be installing these products.
The warping issue is something I see a LOT with "generic" shop rotors. A majority of your house-brand basic rotors are manufactured by Raybestos (or some subsidiary thereof), and they're...Rotors. I've had a lot of warpy wobble problems with 'em. I prefer high-carbon rotors from quality manufacturers; something Rock Auto typically carries for most vehicles.
I normally recommend against the Z23 pads for daily drivers, as the pad compound tends to need some heat in it to stop properly, but with a big, fat family-hauler like this, I don't suspect you're going to have any problems. Winter there will be the big reveal. If Mrs. O tells you it feels like the brakes aren't stopping well, or the car is carrying on when she applies the brakes, keep those rotors, give 'em a scotchbrite scuff, and slap a set of Z17 pads on and see if the complaint goes away. ;)
I’m using the Powerstop rotors and pads on several cars. I like the coated rotors they have so they don’t rust. I didn’t by the slotted rotors though. Finding a place to break in the pads was a challenge where I live.
I bought the same pad and rotor set all around for my wife's 2012 V6 Durango and they had a problem with pulsing (judder) after a couple years. Tried rebedding procedure and checked torque, etc to no effect. Changed out the front pads to Akebonos, still had issues so I went back to stock front rotors and no issues. Left the rear Power stop rotors as they didn't have issues. I did my 2014 Camry with the same set and had no issues, though I switched to Akebono pads after the PowerStop pads wore out. The rotors still show little wear after 65,000:miles.
I've had great results with the AutoZone Duralast Gold brake rotors on the front of our vehicles. They're actually black, but more importantly, they don't warp because of their higher carbon content. I've had them for a couple of years. I get the Duralast Gold ceramic brake pads, too.
Had to pause. Haven't watched the whole tutorial.
Had 1 kinda similar. It was constantly, curb spankings... hilarious story....
Now im gonna watch
I've had those same brakes on my 73 chevelle and my 99 Z28. they've been very good and will buy them again.
Hello, Eric O. I had the same thing happen to my 1998 Wrangler. Did the same power stop thing & has been good for 1 to 2 years. Good luck.