Thanks for sharing the whole process. Numbers will come, be patient, you have great content and your method of sharing is encouraging for others to take the plunge in their own restoration projects.
I really would dye crack test around those axels. You're doing such a great job, I'd hate for you to find a crack later after it's all back together and painted!
You have convinced me to do so. I also found when the studs were replaced on the left front axle the washers that are supposed to be behind the head of the stud were omitted. It doesn’t seem like it’s caused any problem but I’ve heard of the potential for cracks.
Love it.. This Mike!! This is what we neeeed! A DEEPER dive into the details(video) of known issues and exactly what Christopher said. How to find and possibly resolve the issue if it ends up an issue for you. Love learning how to do new things like dye crack test. I think I've seen it done with magnets? I can't remember, I only seen it done once online.
Hi, I'm from New Zealand. When I was an apprentice in the late 60s and early 70s, the company that I worked for were the NZ agents for J I Case. I have done a lot of work on the 1737 and 1740 skid loaders. The main difference between what you have and the earlier models was that the early ones had mechanical drive into the chain cases and two multi plate clutches on each side. One for reverse and one forward. The 1737 had a 188 cui petrol engine, and the 1740 was a diesel. I watched your video, and it certainly brought back some memories . I am a design engineer now and design diesel electric propulsion systems for commercial shipping. Thanks for sharing this
@MikefromMissouri You are so welcome, Mike. Even though I am a female, I still find it fascinating to watch what you are doing. The closest thing I get to now is the maintenance on my classic cars and my house maintenance
5:51 Zep Industrial Purple Degreaser and a 1 or 2 gallon garden sprayer... I just buy the five gallon cube at the big box stores. Keep it off anodized and raw aluminum. 16:50 Pull the master link (depending which direction it is installed. I blasted one tractor. I'll never do it again. More than doubles paint materials. You can blast areas that you will play hell getting paint back on afterwards. I can't tell the difference between the blasted tractor and all the others that I have wire wheeled. Fortunately for you that's a simple flat chassis. Except for those pockets that are missing paint. That's because they couldn't get sufficient coverage at the factory. Pretty good show Mike. Perfect amount of chatter. Chatter that is on subject too. Appreciate you taking the time to record, edit, and post it.
Thanks. I’ve not tried the ZEP cleaner but heard it’s good stuff. No master link on these chains they are continuous. Thanks for watching i appreciate it.
Exactly what Doug said.. I found an 1840 arm boom and guess what I want to do with it? Exactly what Mike did, bigger pins, maybe practice flame straightening for fun? Who knows.. love Mikes videos on his 1840.
Just started watching, great content. Might look for the master link in the drive chain. It will be easier to put back together. Looks great, my dad had a case years ago. Good machines.
@MikefromMissouri 1845c, ended up switching to a CAT. at the time parts were hard to get locally. Cat had a dealer close by so he traded. Case is still a good machine. Can't wait to see the transformation.
In typical Mike fashion.. "I'm going to take one other axle apart..." At this point you will quickly realize that when Mike says he's going to check things over and look at something, it actually ends up meaning.. "I'm going to take every single one of them apart because I'm not here to do it again."
The seals are National 412920 the bearings are Timken set 47 which are "LM102949 bearing & LM102910 race" both inner and outer use the same bearing. Can get these at local auto parts house. The O ring for the housing is either a -445 or -449 depending if you have the early or later housing. You will just have to measure and see what you have. I got these from MC master-Carr. Let me know if you have further questions.
@@MikefromMissouri I double checked my info I updated the individual numbers as I gave you incorrect info. Still set 47, I updated them in original post.
Great little machine but like all things they had their urks that models frame was weak under the wheel hubs the next version was considerably stronger with no separation plates and a smaller hole made for less leaks less cracks easier assembly.
The 1840? Most used ones go for around 8-12k. Super nice ones can approach 20k. Not sure what number to put on this one when I’m done. Don’t plan on selling it so I haven’t put much thought into it.
Thanks for sharing the whole process. Numbers will come, be patient, you have great content and your method of sharing is encouraging for others to take the plunge in their own restoration projects.
Thanks for the inspiration
I really would dye crack test around those axels. You're doing such a great job, I'd hate for you to find a crack later after it's all back together and painted!
I second that!
You have convinced me to do so. I also found when the studs were replaced on the left front axle the washers that are supposed to be behind the head of the stud were omitted. It doesn’t seem like it’s caused any problem but I’ve heard of the potential for cracks.
Love it.. This Mike!! This is what we neeeed! A DEEPER dive into the details(video) of known issues and exactly what Christopher said. How to find and possibly resolve the issue if it ends up an issue for you. Love learning how to do new things like dye crack test. I think I've seen it done with magnets? I can't remember, I only seen it done once online.
Hi, I'm from New Zealand. When I was an apprentice in the late 60s and early 70s, the company that I worked for were the NZ agents for J I Case. I have done a lot of work on the 1737 and 1740 skid loaders. The main difference between what you have and the earlier models was that the early ones had mechanical drive into the chain cases and two multi plate clutches on each side. One for reverse and one forward. The 1737 had a 188 cui petrol engine, and the 1740 was a diesel. I watched your video, and it certainly brought back some memories . I am a design engineer now and design diesel electric propulsion systems for commercial shipping. Thanks for sharing this
Thanks for sharing that history with me, I find it fascinating. Thanks for watching my progress!
@MikefromMissouri You are so welcome, Mike. Even though I am a female, I still find it fascinating to watch what you are doing. The closest thing I get to now is the maintenance on my classic cars and my house maintenance
5:51 Zep Industrial Purple Degreaser and a 1 or 2 gallon garden sprayer... I just buy the five gallon cube at the big box stores. Keep it off anodized and raw aluminum.
16:50 Pull the master link (depending which direction it is installed.
I blasted one tractor. I'll never do it again. More than doubles paint materials. You can blast areas that you will play hell getting paint back on afterwards. I can't tell the difference between the blasted tractor and all the others that I have wire wheeled. Fortunately for you that's a simple flat chassis. Except for those pockets that are missing paint. That's because they couldn't get sufficient coverage at the factory.
Pretty good show Mike. Perfect amount of chatter. Chatter that is on subject too. Appreciate you taking the time to record, edit, and post it.
Thanks. I’ve not tried the ZEP cleaner but heard it’s good stuff. No master link on these chains they are continuous. Thanks for watching i appreciate it.
@@MikefromMissouri It occurred to me after the fact they are probably continuous. I've never had to tear a chain case down to that level before.
😂 I’ve been watching the series for four days now😂
@@yellow3222 Awesome, Thanks for being here. More to come
@@MikefromMissouri I’m in mid Missouri, but I do things cheap and dirty 😂
@@yellow3222LOL, that’s Ok
Exactly what Doug said.. I found an 1840 arm boom and guess what I want to do with it? Exactly what Mike did, bigger pins, maybe practice flame straightening for fun? Who knows.. love Mikes videos on his 1840.
Thanks Buddy!
Do the axles have grease zerks?
@@mikekleckner694 no zerks. I’ve heard of people adding them but I could see the possibility of the seals being pushed out.
Just started watching, great content. Might look for the master link in the drive chain. It will be easier to put back together. Looks great, my dad had a case years ago. Good machines.
Thanks for joining. The chains on this machine are continuous with no master link. What model did he have?
@MikefromMissouri 1845c, ended up switching to a CAT. at the time parts were hard to get locally. Cat had a dealer close by so he traded. Case is still a good machine. Can't wait to see the transformation.
As always, good video!
Glad you enjoyed!
In typical Mike fashion.. "I'm going to take one other axle apart..." At this point you will quickly realize that when Mike says he's going to check things over and look at something, it actually ends up meaning.. "I'm going to take every single one of them apart because I'm not here to do it again."
LOL
The seals are National 412920 the bearings are Timken set 47 which are "LM102949 bearing & LM102910 race" both inner and outer use the same bearing. Can get these at local auto parts house.
The O ring for the housing is either a -445 or -449 depending if you have the early or later housing. You will just have to measure and see what you have. I got these from MC master-Carr.
Let me know if you have further questions.
Great Info thank you
@@MikefromMissouri
I double checked my info I updated the individual numbers as I gave you incorrect info. Still set 47, I updated them in original post.
Great little machine but like all things they had their urks that models frame was weak under the wheel hubs the next version was considerably stronger with no separation plates and a smaller hole made for less leaks less cracks easier assembly.
Yes I’ve heard that the earlier ones could crack. I’m going to check mine very close once it’s sand blasted but so far it looks fine.
@MikeFromMissouri. Question: How much does something like that be worth ?? I have a 95xp. Let me know
The 1840? Most used ones go for around 8-12k. Super nice ones can approach 20k. Not sure what number to put on this one when I’m done. Don’t plan on selling it so I haven’t put much thought into it.
Seems like lossening the rear hubs and sliding them forward would have given lots more play for removing the front hubs
Sounds good in theory but there is a center drive so the front and rear wheels have separate chains. Loosening rear doesn’t loosen the front.
you have such excellent content thank you very much! A++++ videos
I appreciate that!