Thats a great tip on the baby powder, thanks for passiing it on. Not your typical workshop odor but you could probably cover it up by spilling some gas in there or something like that:-)
Hi...you're doing a good job! I have an old non-CASE machine and I started restoring it from the hydraulic motor. Your videos will be very useful to me!!
I have the same machine that one day I hope to restore but it keeps running and we keep needing it. I am liking all that you are doing so far but a little advice from a welder is to try to avoid spot welding and welding down hill on structural items. The uphill progression helps with obtaining deeper penetration. But keep up the great work.
for surface rust try using white vinegar. Also WD-40 spray is useful but must be applied for preservative purposes only. Wipe it off then apply your usual red oxide, primer and paint. Other solutions is the evaporust, a bit pricey but this is all the methods that will work effectively. Excellent work. I will subscribe to your channel. All the best from Durban, South Africa.
Tried many times with plates and stiffeners on the D hole frames in the end we just made it like the late model but thicker, we also put the access holes in the top for covers , Here in Australia the operators were pretty hard on their gear and as the primary Case supplier we had to make fixes that would never break it was all part of after sales warranty for us hope it all works out for you but nice project 👍🇦🇺
I hear what you’re saying. I think by putting them on the inside and creating a sandwich the plates will be more effective. Thanks for watching and the comment!
I would have cut a hole on the inside wall of the tanks to give you good access to clean and coat them with a tank sealer. As soon as you clean and prep the surface of the metal frame or parts don't give it time to rust. Spray it with some rust-oleum red or black primer. Use a wire brush wheel or cone attachment for a power grinder or drill to quickly remove crusty paint and rust which also etches the surface of the metal for the paint to bond with.
Farm Craft you tube channel had gotten a skid steer and it had cracks like yours. Wasn't a Case. Maybe New Holland. His were worse than yours. He welded the cracks and didn't make rings like you did. In the comments for his situation some one said that was common and they made rings like you did but welded and attached them on the outside.
Farmcrafts skid steer allows for plates to be welded on the outside due to how the hub assemblies are designed. Spacing them out ¼" doesn't affect anything. I'm guessing this Case skidsteer is designed differently and extra width on the outside won't work
Two questions:Why not brush the frame and simply paint it with a weldable single component rust inhibitor?Second...what is the RAL of the old CASE machines? I have an old CK13 excavator that I'm restoring
Hello. I already purchase a prior compatible with case factory paint and I’m not sure how it does with surface rust. Maybe I’ll forgo it and do something else. What does RAL mean?
i used phosphoric acid on car repair and dont wash off with water i sand it with 220 clean with rubbing alcohol and rustoleum deep rust primer 3:1 ratio with acetone and magik hardener
Phosphoric acid coverts rust into a primer no need to rinse , sand to your satisfaction then use heavy rust primer Rust-Oleum 3:1 ratio with acetone and use magik hardener I get it at rural king, this mix gives you a sealer coat then prime over that
Stop fretting over surface rust. Plenty of coating systems can handle that and worse with no issues. Martin Senour has some great DTM solutions , and you can get that through many Napa stores. The phosphoric acid treatment can actually be more problematic than the surface rust for some coatings. I recommend a person sort out the coating system, then they have a framework for success.
I'm checking into my primer to see if is compatible with the phosphoric acid. I'm not real impressed with the leftover white dust which i think is salt.
Thats a great tip on the baby powder, thanks for passiing it on. Not your typical workshop odor but you could probably cover it up by spilling some gas in there or something like that:-)
happy to help
Hi...you're doing a good job! I have an old non-CASE machine and I started restoring it from the hydraulic motor. Your videos will be very useful to me!!
Glad to help
Cool project. You will obviously have a fantastic machine when completed.
@@smplyizzy Thanks, it’s taking longer than I anticipated that’s for sure.
Looking good.
When you weld, go for longer passes. The stitch welding won't get any penetration and in turn won't have much strength.
Thanks for the tip
I have the same machine that one day I hope to restore but it keeps running and we keep needing it. I am liking all that you are doing so far but a little advice from a welder is to try to avoid spot welding and welding down hill on structural items. The uphill progression helps with obtaining deeper penetration. But keep up the great work.
Let's get this man an arc droid!
Never heard of it but now I want one. That would be a game changer.
for surface rust try using white vinegar. Also WD-40 spray is useful but must be applied for preservative purposes only. Wipe it off then apply your usual red oxide, primer and paint. Other solutions is the evaporust, a bit pricey but this is all the methods that will work effectively. Excellent work. I will subscribe to your channel. All the best from Durban, South Africa.
Makes sense. Either way the cracks seem to be a common problem with older machines depending on how they are used.
Yup, skids take a beating for sure
Excellent work.
Thank you so much 😀
Tried many times with plates and stiffeners on the D hole frames in the end we just made it like the late model but thicker, we also put the access holes in the top for covers , Here in Australia the operators were pretty hard on their gear and as the primary Case supplier we had to make fixes that would never break it was all part of after sales warranty for us hope it all works out for you but nice project 👍🇦🇺
I hear what you’re saying. I think by putting them on the inside and creating a sandwich the plates will be more effective. Thanks for watching and the comment!
Love your videos Mike, keep it up. Run your youtube channel at your own pace! Glad i could help.
You rock!
Enjoying your channel. Apply a primer coat made for rusty metal. Protects the frame as you rebuild the machine.
I'm looking into this specifically
That sledge hammer bouncing back at you was freaking me out! You didn't have to work so hard on the up stroke. It was way too hot that day. 😅
@@mikekleckner694 Hey Mike! Yeah it bounced back a lot!
I would have cut a hole on the inside wall of the tanks to give you good access to clean and coat them with a tank sealer.
As soon as you clean and prep the surface of the metal frame or parts don't give it time to rust. Spray it with some rust-oleum red or black primer.
Use a wire brush wheel or cone attachment for a power grinder or drill to quickly remove crusty paint and rust which also etches the surface of the metal for the paint to bond with.
Maybe try some of that leave on rust converter? The kind you can paint on top of
Phosphoric acid.
Ive tried that but don't like the white powder residue
Primer right after cleaning the metal
I like your style
@@JamesColeman1 thanks!
Spray wd40 and wipe it with dry clean rag for surface rust
Farm Craft you tube channel had gotten a skid steer and it had cracks like yours. Wasn't a Case. Maybe New Holland. His were worse than yours. He welded the cracks and didn't make rings like you did. In the comments for his situation some one said that was common and they made rings like you did but welded and attached them on the outside.
Fish plates have risks. Many forbid their use.
I like his channel. Ill check it out
Farmcrafts skid steer allows for plates to be welded on the outside due to how the hub assemblies are designed. Spacing them out ¼" doesn't affect anything. I'm guessing this Case skidsteer is designed differently and extra width on the outside won't work
@@Failure_Is_An_Optionthat's such an extremely vague and subjective statement I'm almost impressed 😮
@@kennethney4260 Some clowns like to hide their sins.
I noticed as you were saying how simple those pumps are you installed the rubber impeller incorrectly...
How so?
Two questions:Why not brush the frame and simply paint it with a weldable single component rust inhibitor?Second...what is the RAL of the old CASE machines? I have an old CK13 excavator that I'm restoring
Hello. I already purchase a prior compatible with case factory paint and I’m not sure how it does with surface rust. Maybe I’ll forgo it and do something else. What does RAL mean?
i used phosphoric acid on car repair and dont wash off with water i sand it with 220 clean with rubbing alcohol and rustoleum deep rust primer 3:1 ratio with acetone and magik hardener
My problem is I want to use a waterborn industrial primer and its specifically says only oil based primers.
Rustoleum is oil based brother
@@MrRoundtable2 yeah I may have to not use what I bought from Sherwin-Williams for $100 a gallon
Phosphoric acid coverts rust into a primer no need to rinse , sand to your satisfaction then use heavy rust primer Rust-Oleum 3:1 ratio with acetone and use magik hardener I get it at rural king, this mix gives you a sealer coat then prime over that
Magik hardener works out to 16:1
Stop fretting over surface rust. Plenty of coating systems can handle that and worse with no issues. Martin Senour has some great DTM solutions , and you can get that through many Napa stores. The phosphoric acid treatment can actually be more problematic than the surface rust for some coatings. I recommend a person sort out the coating system, then they have a framework for success.
I'm checking into my primer to see if is compatible with the phosphoric acid. I'm not real impressed with the leftover white dust which i think is salt.