My dad braze welded a cracked engine cast block on a Farmall 140 with torch & flux over 40 years ago, tractor still running. Amazing what a skilled craftsman can do. Awesome !!!
The customer is probably a John Deere service centre. The apprentice dropped the housing when it was removed. Fainted as he realised his year's salary would have gone to replace the part with a John Deere original. A spray can of John Deere Green and ..."as good as new". You saved his job...
I thought that was a joke so I tried to look one up and holy SHIT, it's not. I didn't see the exact one probably cuz they didn't have a pic of it but one that looked similar but only half this size was over $2k.
I haven’t read all of the comments but the ones that I did read were all commentary & an occasional suggestion to make it easier, none were negative. You do good work. Thank you Sir
It's been years since I've welded cast iron or case steel. Always used a torch and bronze rod. I always heated the whole piece and kept the heat on while welding. Then let it cool slowly. I am not your caliber of welder. We just learned to fix things. You are definitely worth your every penny you charge.
My experience is that the cast iron must be around 425 to 450 f to vet good results. I welded a cast New Holland tractor front axel housing several years ago and it is still working.
40-45 years ago we had a JD plow that broke a cast iron piece took it to the machine shop, they used brass with a oxycylene, I can’t spell, it worked until I sold the machine and farm
Top job young man. A quick tickle with a needle scaler would pepper a textured finish onto the surface so it looked similar to original and a flash of JD green paint and you would hardly know it was repaired.
No need for a mill as long as you have a fresh cubitron, wow, came out great! That silicon bronze is an ideal choice due to its thermal properties and minimal contraction. I've had mixed results with high nickel rod in the past but will remember this technique for the future. Thanks for the effort and superior content as always.
I've only done silicon bronze with TIG. I knew there was a MIG version, but nice to see it being done on cast iron. Thanks for showing that. I'll have to try it next time I get a job like that. I know it is also speced for repair of high strength car bodies as it doesn't compromise the heat treating. I think it was Jaguar that was one manufacturer.
@@Frank-Thoresen this is a misunderstanding due to youtube...@gerardjohnson2106 was probably replying to a comment under @Rambozo's comment. But then RUclips or the commenter removed it. So now it looks like Gerard is talking to Rambo. I assume that is what happened. RUclips is funky these days.
This was an excellent one, Greg! I have lots of questions that others have already asked, so I will just wait and read your response to them. Thanks for the video.
Glad your back l understand you were helping in the forest fires but was watching this video l suggest you spray anti splatter on any steel you're welding it would help alot against the dingberrys lol! Keep up the good work and videos. Be safe!
Superb, excellent repair. You are professional. I grew up in a welding repair shop, and all of the jobs I have had involved these types of repairs. Great video.
Very nice! I’ve got so many questions about this. What is the minimum preheat? Appears to have been far less than if using nickel 99. How well does it bond with the cast iron? How hard is it? In other words, will the customer be able to torque that bolt to spec without the silicon bronze trying to mash (collapse) out? You’re the only one that I’ve ever seen use silicon bronze in a MIG wire and I’m completely curious and see so many situations that I could have used it for in the past. Thanks for posting Greg!
Because of its characteristics you could probably get away with even less heat. But I like it when it just starts to turn red. It’s pretty dang hard. Definitely harder than brass. I have been impressed with this wire.
That is an an amazing quality repair, good job. The customer just needs to spray some primer & John Deere Green, one would never know, as stated below.
Many years ago we used to rebuild water pumps and other items make from cast iron, we would weld them together or repair them with stick welding using low hydrogen rods and heat , I think the rods were 7018 or 6011 not sure it was in the 1970’s ? Anyway it always worked out good , I still have a old Vice on my work bench that I welded over 35 years ago , it never broke or failed me !
I do it all the time I use flux core wire 140 Hobart . Just finished a manifold for a t20 Ferguson and built it up 3/16 on the out side flanges. Never cracked or moved. Try it first on scrap .
Nice repair! I never knew you could get silicon bronze mig wire. I need to get a small roll of that for a machine tool I have that is broken in half. Thanks for the idea!
On the hold to keep it round and no burgers inside use a piece of copper water pipe same size as the hole or slightly smaller you can build up around it if you need to. It’s easy to drill out if you can find the exact same size it’ll pop out when you’re done.
Nice job! I picked up a 10lb spool of that some months back. Welded a length of 1/4 x 3 copper bus bar to a peice of 2" 304 stainless tube for practice. It passed the hammer test 😮 😊
Very nice rebuild and repair. I watched as you did individual spot type welds and was thinking if that was as good as one continuous weld. But seeing the end results makes me think it is... Thumbs Up!
just a heads up chief, just use the tip of the smoke at a setting, just below neutral flame!! This setting you can always use when steel needs to be clean or to dry out moister in metal or paint
I found you can often weld cast iron with regular steel welding rod like 6013 so long as the area is pre-heated sufficiently. Never saw anything like silicon bronze wire in a MiG machine before. A mysterious weld I had once was in an aluminum motorcycle head it looked like it was welded with silicon bronze. ( ??? ) Another was an aluminum mag wheel - aluminum spokes inside of a steel rim with big arc welds holding the two together. I couldn’t figure how that one was done but I did find it was a common practice on boats.
Nice job as usual 👍 Anti weld fixed to things.. spray like someone said Or welding blanket. Especially now that the prerequisites were professor and not an S-position in a machine 😉
A piece of snug-fit copper pipe inside the hole might keep any splatter from building up inside the cast iron. I don't think even bronze rod will weld itself to copper (I could be wrong--it's an old trick I learned when welding up automotive parts & fenders). A concern, however, is that you'll have a heat sink inside your cast part, which could cause the cast to heat or cool too quickly, but that's not a problem as long as you control for it ahead of time. Nice work on the repair.
Wow, that's impressive. I can't imagine what that casting is worth, but $-lots comes to mind. Add another $5 bucks of green paint and going to be a long day looking for that fix on any JD dealers lot.
Great fix, Greg! Love tig brazing with SilBr and AlBr. If you have some AlBr wire, can you maybe do a little test run with the Yeswelder to see how it handles it?? My Miller sucks with SilBr and AlBr and would like something that can run them both for doing repair work. Thanks buddy!
Very nice job. I would have been tempted to flip it and flatten the top of the repair with the mill since you already had it on the table. Also, I was wondering if you were going to cover it with sand to let it cool more slowly.
Greg, I have never tried silicon bronze wire. I have always used nickel rod with mixed results, mostly successful. Is the silicon bronze wire as easy as you made look? How does silicon bronze wire work when welding mild steel to cast iron, say welding axle housing to a axle housing truss?
Sure does. SilBr and AlBr (aluminum bronze) are some of the most underrated filler materials for doing repair work. They both can do damn near anything and they are tough as nails. I keep a tube of both tig rods in stock for those special repairs on complex materials or when warpage can occur.....you can run both materials a lot cooler since you aren't melting the base metal. You are simply brazing with an arc and shielding gas. Both lay down really nicely using MIG process, as long as your machine likes them. My old Miller doesn't like AlBr at all.
It’s pretty easy once you get the machine set right. Because of the 100% argon you will have a lot more wire speed than normal. I have welded steel to cast, brass to steel, bronze to brass with gold results. Aluminum to steel not so good lol.
Problem solving in motion. Great result. Thought you'd have stick welded cast iron rods but silicon bronze did the job with a lot less work. Oxy Acetylene would have been my first choice but not sure it would have given a better result. Given the remoteness of the repair and the lower melting point of silicon bronze, is the pre heating essential?
@@OFW Have managed to repair cracked cast exhaust manifolds using oxy and cast iron piston rings. The oldies regarded pre heating as an integral part of all cast iron repairs but it is the part which requires good heating/cooling skills to avoid the hairline cracks. If the JD casing had dropped from a greater height and a 12 inches crack appeared on one side, could one have used (after regrooving the crack) MIG satin bronze or would you use stick / oxyAcet with nickel bronze, nickel99 or the old school cast iron stick rods (and a lot of prayers...)?
Nice work. Made it in one pass. I thought you'd be going back for a second pass to get the corners square. The inside hole was true enough to reverse mill punch through your weld glob?
Hi. ,, I wondered about the long burr set up at the start of the clean up,, was wondering if a grinder tool would do the same at this stage or would that leave unwanted inclusions or deposits? just curious.. Jose R Garcia
That’s a final drive housing for a combine or cotton picker. I’m sure there’s other equipment that it’ll fit but I don’t think a tractor is one of them.
Loved the video, I was hoping you would have painted the housing cat yellow. I am not a welder, but I find your trade fascinating. If you have time I have a few questions. How long have you been a welder? Did you go to trade school? From an outsiders perspective when you are cutting metal with a lathe, or milling machine why don’t you use lubricants every time? Wouldn’t it keep your bits sharper? I know bits won’t hold an edge after repeated heated and cooling. You have a lot of equipment of which I know very little, how much did all of this cost? Everything you have, your building, equipment, machinery, equipment, but just a ballpark figure amount. My estimate is between $800K to $900K I worked in the trades in Chicago in the cold and heat and it took a toll on my body. Those who are ignorant of the problems a person faces while being a tradesman are many. The injuries both small and large, working when you are sick etc. Do you have an exit strategy such as welding yourself to Hawaii? I watch all of you videos because you have a different variety of jobs. Keep it up.
I have been welding since I was little. Almost 30 years. Everything I know is self taught. Back then there was no RUclips, I read books and went out back and tried what I just read. Typically you don’t use coolant with cast and I typically don’t use coolant with carbide tooling. Well my one service truck alone is about 400k fully loaded. So your estimate is pretty low. I’ll let you use your imagination. Thank you for your comment and support.
Use the grinding spark test to determine carbon content. Avoid welding cast iron. Consider removing damage surface and either bolt through on to new surface or make a bridging clamp.
Think I'd have used a grinder to remove the whole broken lug and fabricated a loose spacing piece in mild steel to replace it. No need to attach it to the housing unless you really want to. Save lots of time and no heat stress to the casting.
The long burr war already on the grinder. Had to switch to a different radius. I didn’t think it would splatter that much and I knew it wouldn’t stick so they would come off easily.
Looks great have you seen or have Fireball tools chipping hammer ? I’ve had mine a couple years now and bought a second blade for it and haven’t needed it yet. Them Yeswelders aren’t to bad for a need it when you need it machine
Great job as always. If you will permit an old guy to offer some advice to a young guy, I live with chronic pain every day and night from a life of hard physical work just like you. I always notice that you do not have handles on your angle grinders. Yeah, I know, you don't want to take the time to take them off and put them on. I get it. But the times that you need them off is very small compared with the times you don't. I know that too. Using them with the handles on will decrease the wear and tear on your wrists and hands. I've had surgeries to fix the damage, but still have pain. I had to take an early retirement due to chronic pain problems. That was very hard. So please, take my advice and take care of your body. You only get one. Be careful what and how you lift things. Don't work on the ground if you can work on a table. Living with chronic pain as you get older will ruin your life. Take care so you can keep working and making great videos. With regards, my friend.
My dad braze welded a cracked engine cast block on a Farmall 140 with torch & flux over 40 years ago, tractor still running. Amazing what a skilled craftsman can do. Awesome !!!
Nice repair.. I’d be willing to bet that a new JD cast cover is over $5000..you saved your customer a lot of money.
The customer is probably a John Deere service centre. The apprentice dropped the housing when it was removed. Fainted as he realised his year's salary would have gone to replace the part with a John Deere original. A spray can of John Deere Green and ..."as good as new". You saved his job...
I thought that was a joke so I tried to look one up and holy SHIT, it's not. I didn't see the exact one probably cuz they didn't have a pic of it but one that looked similar but only half this size was over $2k.
@@bdkj3e JD parts are like GOLD !!!!!!!!!!!
$5k plus they’d probably have to reprogram it😂
I haven’t read all of the comments but the ones that I did read were all commentary & an occasional suggestion to make it easier, none were negative.
You do good work. Thank you Sir
It's been years since I've welded cast iron or case steel. Always used a torch and bronze rod.
I always heated the whole piece and kept the heat on while welding. Then let it cool slowly. I am not your caliber of welder. We just learned to fix things.
You are definitely worth your every penny you charge.
My experience is that the cast iron must be around 425 to 450 f to vet good results. I welded a cast New Holland tractor front axel housing several years ago and it is still working.
40-45 years ago we had a JD plow that broke a cast iron piece took it to the machine shop, they used brass with a oxycylene, I can’t spell, it worked until I sold the machine and farm
Man, youre an artist with the grinder. That came out looking great.
I just bought a new yeswelder machine last month and did not know I could push brass wire thru it. Very nice.
Top job young man. A quick tickle with a needle scaler would pepper a textured finish onto the surface so it looked similar to original and a flash of JD green paint and you would hardly know it was repaired.
And put it back on the tractor & you won’t be able to find the repair, this man does good work.
Excellent job! I love doing stuff like this. A little paint and you’d never know it was ever broke.
No need for a mill as long as you have a fresh cubitron, wow, came out great! That silicon bronze is an ideal choice due to its thermal properties and minimal contraction. I've had mixed results with high nickel rod in the past but will remember this technique for the future. Thanks for the effort and superior content as always.
That came out nice . First time I’ve seen an mig welder do silicone bronze.
me too.
Same, i've tig welded sil bronze many times, no clue you could mig it.
Here in Australia body shops use it frequently, low heat distortion and if files or sands up nicely.
@@cg8469 Same here. Never tried migging it.
He mig brazed some big old dirt/concrete sifter/sorter thing a few months ago.
Glad you're back making regular videos. ✌️
I've only done silicon bronze with TIG. I knew there was a MIG version, but nice to see it being done on cast iron. Thanks for showing that. I'll have to try it next time I get a job like that.
I know it is also speced for repair of high strength car bodies as it doesn't compromise the heat treating. I think it was Jaguar that was one manufacturer.
1:40 he says 100% argon
@@gerardjohnson2106I didn't see him asking about the shield gas.
@@Frank-Thoresen this is a misunderstanding due to youtube...@gerardjohnson2106 was probably replying to a comment under @Rambozo's comment. But then RUclips or the commenter removed it. So now it looks like Gerard is talking to Rambo. I assume that is what happened. RUclips is funky these days.
@gruanger Oh. Thank you for the explanation 😅
*On Fire Welding* Bravo well done, thank-you sir for taking the time to bring us along. GOD Bless.
This was an excellent one, Greg! I have lots of questions that others have already asked, so I will just wait and read your response to them. Thanks for the video.
Nice detail on the repair. Customer will be happy.
Nice repair - not many SiBr repairs on YT; showing how it's done!
Glad your back l understand you were helping in the forest fires but was watching this video l suggest you spray anti splatter on any steel you're welding it would help alot against the dingberrys lol! Keep up the good work and videos. Be safe!
Good enough for Charlene when painted in John deere green 😅
Billy Bob approves this message.
Charlene needs to up her standards
Nicely done, not everyone wants to tackle this work.
Boy that's the truth! cast is tough to repair.
You make it look so effortlessly! Awesome work!
No paint? What a hack!
Nice job. Once painted nobody will know how great a job you did.
Nice job! The finish work at the end made it.
Superb, excellent repair. You are professional. I grew up in a welding repair shop, and all of the jobs I have had involved these types of repairs. Great video.
I liked this. Short and practical. Not something you see every day.
Damn! You got that more square freehand than I could with a mill!
Well done, I've always brazed cast iron and had good results. Silicon bronze is some geed wire however..... well done!!
And again another great video. Greg makes it look easy. He is very skilled.
Your freehand skills are amazing!
Very nice! I’ve got so many questions about this. What is the minimum preheat? Appears to have been far less than if using nickel 99. How well does it bond with the cast iron? How hard is it? In other words, will the customer be able to torque that bolt to spec without the silicon bronze trying to mash (collapse) out? You’re the only one that I’ve ever seen use silicon bronze in a MIG wire and I’m completely curious and see so many situations that I could have used it for in the past. Thanks for posting Greg!
Because of its characteristics you could probably get away with even less heat. But I like it when it just starts to turn red. It’s pretty dang hard. Definitely harder than brass. I have been impressed with this wire.
thats a nice repair, ive done a repair similar like this with tig brazing silicon bronze, it worked but this seems to be a lot quicker and cleaner.
Wow, first time seeing that with a mig. Came out amazing.
That is an an amazing quality repair, good job. The customer just needs to spray some primer & John Deere Green, one would never know, as stated below.
Many years ago we used to rebuild water pumps and other items make from cast iron, we would weld them together or repair them with stick welding using low hydrogen rods and heat , I think the rods were 7018 or 6011 not sure it was in the 1970’s ? Anyway it always worked out good , I still have a old Vice on my work bench that I welded over 35 years ago , it never broke or failed me !
Nice work, first time I've seen a mig used to repair cast👍
I do it all the time I use flux core wire 140 Hobart . Just finished a manifold for a t20 Ferguson and built it up 3/16 on the out side flanges. Never cracked or moved. Try it first on scrap .
Nice repair! I never knew you could get silicon bronze mig wire. I need to get a small roll of that for a machine tool I have that is broken in half. Thanks for the idea!
This is the kind of stuff I love to see pros tackle to know how to deal with it...
On the hold to keep it round and no burgers inside use a piece of copper water pipe same size as the hole or slightly smaller you can build up around it if you need to. It’s easy to drill out if you can find the exact same size it’ll pop out when you’re done.
A round stick of graphite works better.
Nice job! I picked up a 10lb spool of that some months back. Welded a length of 1/4 x 3 copper bus bar to a peice of 2" 304 stainless tube for practice. It passed the hammer test 😮 😊
Very nice rebuild and repair. I watched as you did individual spot type welds and was thinking if that was as good as one continuous weld. But seeing the end results makes me think it is... Thumbs Up!
I’ve been welding for a long time and I didn’t know they made a silicon bronze mig wire, nice job, I’ll have to get some.
just a heads up chief, just use the tip of the smoke at a setting, just below neutral flame!! This setting you can always use when steel needs to be clean or to dry out moister in metal or paint
Silicon bronze MIG! I learned something. Thanks. Nice job…. OBTW!
Very nice repair, not seen Silicon bronze used on thick material 👌
Very nicely done,that's cool they have wire for the mig welders .
That was awesome, very nice procedure . Thanks for sharing
Just like a dentist. I know nothing about welding but this is fascinating and makes me want to weld😊
I found you can often weld cast iron with regular steel welding rod like 6013 so long as the area is pre-heated sufficiently.
Never saw anything like silicon bronze wire in a MiG machine before.
A mysterious weld I had once was in an aluminum motorcycle head it looked like it was welded with silicon bronze. ( ??? )
Another was an aluminum mag wheel - aluminum spokes inside of a steel rim with big arc welds holding the two together. I couldn’t figure how that one was done but I did find it was a common practice on boats.
I tried silicone bronze on aluminum and it doesn’t like it.
That came out way better than I thought!
A true PROFESSIONAL you are! I subscribed.
That looks like a really nice bit of work!
Awesome repair there.
Perfection as always. Heading that way to be your apprentice.
looks good. i was always told cast iron was tough to work with,
U just saved a customer a few 1000 and made some black art money...Great Vid 👍👍👍👍
Nice. I've never welded silicon-bronze with my mig machine. It looked very easy to do.
Yeah I’m an old timer. We used to do. This with a torch and bronze back in the day. But yeah this looks pretty good 👍.
Holy crap! That is art, and with brazing wire no less! Well beyond me and my puny flux core thing, but inspiring nonetheless.
I'm surprised you did not cover so it would cool down slowly and it after welding and peen it to relieve the stress. Good looking repair!!
Przepięknie jest to zrobione A kiedy to będzie pomalowane na odpowiedni kolor pozdrawiam serdecznie. 👍👍👍👍👍
Nice job as usual 👍
Anti weld fixed to things.. spray like someone said Or welding blanket. Especially now that the prerequisites were professor and not an S-position in a machine 😉
A piece of snug-fit copper pipe inside the hole might keep any splatter from building up inside the cast iron. I don't think even bronze rod will weld itself to copper (I could be wrong--it's an old trick I learned when welding up automotive parts & fenders). A concern, however, is that you'll have a heat sink inside your cast part, which could cause the cast to heat or cool too quickly, but that's not a problem as long as you control for it ahead of time.
Nice work on the repair.
Came out great dude ..excellent repair.
Wow, that's impressive. I can't imagine what that casting is worth, but $-lots comes to mind. Add another $5 bucks of green paint and going to be a long day looking for that fix on any JD dealers lot.
Slick fix. Great video thumbs up.
Not sure why RUclips stopped showing me these videos. Dangit. At least I have a few weeks worth to go back and watch!
Great fix, Greg! Love tig brazing with SilBr and AlBr. If you have some AlBr wire, can you maybe do a little test run with the Yeswelder to see how it handles it?? My Miller sucks with SilBr and AlBr and would like something that can run them both for doing repair work. Thanks buddy!
Yeah I’ll look into it
On Fire Welding is on fire, baby let's make it factory new.
Very nice job. I would have been tempted to flip it and flatten the top of the repair with the mill since you already had it on the table. Also, I was wondering if you were going to cover it with sand to let it cool more slowly.
We usually set parts in sand , keep sand hot and heat part. Also helps slow cooling so nothing else cracks.
We use flux core on cast all the time. Messy but will not crack with good cast. Cool slow.
Hi mate. I've watched you before. Quality work! Good luck with your channel. PS - Kurtis would have been proud of that, lol.
Good thing about watching you weld is I don't get flash burn ❤️🔥
did a great job little greenweanie paint would,nt knowthe difference i have reed/prince vise that is broke do you have any experience with vise,s
Greg, I have never tried silicon bronze wire. I have always used nickel rod with mixed results, mostly successful. Is the silicon bronze wire as easy as you made look? How does silicon bronze wire work when welding mild steel to cast iron, say welding axle housing to a axle housing truss?
Sure does. SilBr and AlBr (aluminum bronze) are some of the most underrated filler materials for doing repair work. They both can do damn near anything and they are tough as nails. I keep a tube of both tig rods in stock for those special repairs on complex materials or when warpage can occur.....you can run both materials a lot cooler since you aren't melting the base metal. You are simply brazing with an arc and shielding gas. Both lay down really nicely using MIG process, as long as your machine likes them. My old Miller doesn't like AlBr at all.
It’s pretty easy once you get the machine set right. Because of the 100% argon you will have a lot more wire speed than normal. I have welded steel to cast, brass to steel, bronze to brass with gold results. Aluminum to steel not so good lol.
Glad to see some green representation but that is the outer half of a final drive housing on a combine. Most likely an S series combine.
Awesome , looks better than NEW !
Problem solving in motion. Great result. Thought you'd have stick welded cast iron rods but silicon bronze did the job with a lot less work. Oxy Acetylene would have been my first choice but not sure it would have given a better result. Given the remoteness of the repair and the lower melting point of silicon bronze, is the pre heating essential?
It definitely doesn’t need a much heat as a cast stick rod like nickel 99. But i always like to heat cast up a little. It performs pretty well.
@@OFW Have managed to repair cracked cast exhaust manifolds using oxy and cast iron piston rings. The oldies regarded pre heating as an integral part of all cast iron repairs but it is the part which requires good heating/cooling skills to avoid the hairline cracks. If the JD casing had dropped from a greater height and a 12 inches crack appeared on one side, could one have used (after regrooving the crack) MIG satin bronze or would you use stick / oxyAcet with nickel bronze, nickel99 or the old school cast iron stick rods (and a lot of prayers...)?
Great job. Any advice on how much heat, temperature you added? Not necessary to keep applying heat apparently?
It was probably 500 degrees or so.
hit that with a needle scaler for some texture and some green paint and nobody would ever know.
Great job on fixing that hole
High class repair.Respect !
I was waiting for you to paint it cat yellow 😂
Nice work. Made it in one pass. I thought you'd be going back for a second pass to get the corners square. The inside hole was true enough to reverse mill punch through your weld glob?
Nice work there !!!
It came out good 👍🏼
That is super work! Does this also work on a cast iron cilinderhead?
Possibly. I have not tried it.
Nice work! I would have ran a bolt in there and JB welded it lol.
Hi. ,, I wondered about the long burr set up at the start of the clean up,, was wondering if a grinder tool would do the same at this stage or would that leave unwanted inclusions or deposits? just curious.. Jose R Garcia
A grinder would be fine. I only used that because it was already there.
Brilliant as always 👍🏻🇬🇧
Nice job Picasso.
1,555 👍 'S up on fire welding thank you for sharing 🤗
Excellent work brother!
That’s a final drive housing for a combine or cotton picker. I’m sure there’s other equipment that it’ll fit but I don’t think a tractor is one of them.
Better than OEM 🙌
I thought for cast iron you needed to use oxy acetylene to braze or you? What type of wire and gas was that? Came out great. Nice work.
Loved the video, I was hoping you would have painted the housing cat yellow. I am not a welder, but I find your trade fascinating. If you have time I have a few questions.
How long have you been a welder?
Did you go to trade school?
From an outsiders perspective when you are cutting metal with a lathe, or milling machine why don’t you use lubricants every time? Wouldn’t it keep your bits sharper? I know bits won’t hold an edge after repeated heated and cooling.
You have a lot of equipment of which I know very little, how much did all of this cost? Everything you have, your building, equipment, machinery, equipment, but just a ballpark figure amount. My estimate is between $800K to $900K
I worked in the trades in Chicago in the cold and heat and it took a toll on my body. Those who are ignorant of the problems a person faces while being a tradesman are many. The injuries both small and large, working when you are sick etc. Do you have an exit strategy such as welding yourself to Hawaii?
I watch all of you videos because you have a different variety of jobs. Keep it up.
I have been welding since I was little. Almost 30 years. Everything I know is self taught. Back then there was no RUclips, I read books and went out back and tried what I just read. Typically you don’t use coolant with cast and I typically don’t use coolant with carbide tooling. Well my one service truck alone is about 400k fully loaded. So your estimate is pretty low. I’ll let you use your imagination. Thank you for your comment and support.
Use the grinding spark test to determine carbon content. Avoid welding cast iron. Consider removing damage surface and either bolt through on to new surface or make a bridging clamp.
In most cases cast iron can be welded just fine. Welding was the best option for this project.
I would still always advise use a non-heat input solution , as heat introduces internal stress,dilution and grain composition.
Nice Job, I wouldn't have dared to repair cast iron with a semi,. What do you think of the yeswelder machine?
It’s pretty good
Think I'd have used a grinder to remove the whole broken lug and fabricated a loose spacing piece in mild steel to replace it. No need to attach it to the housing unless you really want to. Save lots of time and no heat stress to the casting.
Liked the long burr, does it allow you more/better cotrol? Why did you choose not to use anti-splatter spray. Thanks for the lesson.
The long burr war already on the grinder. Had to switch to a different radius. I didn’t think it would splatter that much and I knew it wouldn’t stick so they would come off easily.
Looks great have you seen or have Fireball tools chipping hammer ? I’ve had mine a couple years now and bought a second blade for it and haven’t needed it yet. Them Yeswelders aren’t to bad for a need it when you need it machine
I don’t have one. I’ll have to check it out.
Great job as always. If you will permit an old guy to offer some advice to a young guy, I live with chronic pain every day and night from a life of hard physical work just like you. I always notice that you do not have handles on your angle grinders. Yeah, I know, you don't want to take the time to take them off and put them on. I get it. But the times that you need them off is very small compared with the times you don't. I know that too. Using them with the handles on will decrease the wear and tear on your wrists and hands. I've had surgeries to fix the damage, but still have pain. I had to take an early retirement due to chronic pain problems. That was very hard. So please, take my advice and take care of your body. You only get one. Be careful what and how you lift things. Don't work on the ground if you can work on a table. Living with chronic pain as you get older will ruin your life. Take care so you can keep working and making great videos.
With regards, my friend.
Ya, I feel it the older I get. I’m sure it only gets worse.
@@OFW I expect to see handles on all angle grinders in the next video. 😁