basically if you want motion blur and more natural looking effects in your work, use slower shutter with the filter. if you like the sharp “action cam” look of higher shutter speeds, leave it off. I think if you’re tracking someone closeup and they’re doing crazy movements, faster shutter speeds give it a more action packed feel. but if someone is dancing or walking or cars and driving by or big backgrounds, you don’t want choppy footage since it takes away from the aesthetic appeal most scenes like those above benefit
I agree with you for the most part. I think very, very few people would be able to discern the difference between fast and slow shutter speeds, let alone for most wide panoramic scenes, which is where drones are predominantly used. The biggest exception that I can think of would be when there’s a lot of relatively fast movement in the scene (not just with objects being closer to the camera, where this effect is more pronounced). If you pan or tilt quickly you’ll notice it more. If you do high speed flyovers at low altitude over a landscape you’ll notice stuttery movement. The one thing I’m trying to figure out (and I’ve heard this somewhere before and never dove deep enough) is whether a very dynamically changing scene is the reason for stutter in some situations. It’s how I ended up on your channel 😂. Something about processing power and key frames and interpolating frames. Basically… I read somewhere that RUclips will take a finite number of frames from your video and interpolate the rest of the frames. If the scene moves too quickly it will drop frames and manifest as stutter. This is what I was seeking to find in my search. If you end up finding the answer please share here and I’ll do the same thanks.
We shoot DJI Air 2 and Air 2S. The Air 2S came with a hard case, ND filters, landing strips, and tons of storage for blades and chargers. The footage is superb. I like the ND8. Just like I preferred your footage of the ND8. I don't like things too bright. But you can adjust all you want to get your desired result. And at the end of the day this point is moot because the new Mavic 3 has the filters built in. Our biggest issues with audio sync is using a seperate camera to get abient noise from events and incorporate drone into live streams which we are able to do with the help from the Android controller and HDMI out to our Sling Studio. We did have to change to 2.4GHz and 5.4 seemed to be overwhelming and got a lot of interference.
I'm no expert but my thinking is along the lines of yours regarding 'cinematic' and actually I think its because the description cinematic is often applied wrongly. The moment there is panning of distant scenery and horizon people latch on to the word. But thats not really accurate from what I have read. It's just that when watching a professionally shot film that. has good cinematography, there are usually dramatic scenery shots that also contain something cinematic that has good motion blur in the more relevant action closer to the foreground. I could be wrong. I've watched RUclips videos where people swear by the filters and try to show you how much better it is but they have nothing cinematic going on that requires well captured motion blur. Hence the results only illustrate the different colour/brightness of the shots with little to no detectable change in the quality of the panning horizon.
Good discussion. I could have saved some money if I had watched this before... So my conclusion is that the average hobby drone photographer probably doesn't need them. Still, if you're serious about the hobby I guess it is a good thing to experiment with them to better understand the effect they have. Also, maybe a faster pan or, as you say, closer moving subjects could show a bigger difference.
basically if you want motion blur and more natural looking effects in your work, use slower shutter with the filter. if you like the sharp “action cam” look of higher shutter speeds, leave it off. I think if you’re tracking someone closeup and they’re doing crazy movements, faster shutter speeds give it a more action packed feel. but if someone is dancing or walking or cars and driving by or big backgrounds, you don’t want choppy footage since it takes away from the aesthetic appeal most scenes like those above benefit
I agree with you for the most part. I think very, very few people would be able to discern the difference between fast and slow shutter speeds, let alone for most wide panoramic scenes, which is where drones are predominantly used. The biggest exception that I can think of would be when there’s a lot of relatively fast movement in the scene (not just with objects being closer to the camera, where this effect is more pronounced). If you pan or tilt quickly you’ll notice it more. If you do high speed flyovers at low altitude over a landscape you’ll notice stuttery movement. The one thing I’m trying to figure out (and I’ve heard this somewhere before and never dove deep enough) is whether a very dynamically changing scene is the reason for stutter in some situations. It’s how I ended up on your channel 😂. Something about processing power and key frames and interpolating frames. Basically… I read somewhere that RUclips will take a finite number of frames from your video and interpolate the rest of the frames. If the scene moves too quickly it will drop frames and manifest as stutter. This is what I was seeking to find in my search. If you end up finding the answer please share here and I’ll do the same thanks.
Excellent commentary. Thanks for taking the time!
We shoot DJI Air 2 and Air 2S. The Air 2S came with a hard case, ND filters, landing strips, and tons of storage for blades and chargers. The footage is superb. I like the ND8. Just like I preferred your footage of the ND8. I don't like things too bright. But you can adjust all you want to get your desired result. And at the end of the day this point is moot because the new Mavic 3 has the filters built in. Our biggest issues with audio sync is using a seperate camera to get abient noise from events and incorporate drone into live streams which we are able to do with the help from the Android controller and HDMI out to our Sling Studio. We did have to change to 2.4GHz and 5.4 seemed to be overwhelming and got a lot of interference.
6:42 There's a video that comes into the frame with a black and white digital army zebra pattern, auto does have more of a jagged jerk than 1/60.
I'm no expert but my thinking is along the lines of yours regarding 'cinematic' and actually I think its because the description cinematic is often applied wrongly. The moment there is panning of distant scenery and horizon people latch on to the word. But thats not really accurate from what I have read. It's just that when watching a professionally shot film that. has good cinematography, there are usually dramatic scenery shots that also contain something cinematic that has good motion blur in the more relevant action closer to the foreground. I could be wrong. I've watched RUclips videos where people swear by the filters and try to show you how much better it is but they have nothing cinematic going on that requires well captured motion blur. Hence the results only illustrate the different colour/brightness of the shots with little to no detectable change in the quality of the panning horizon.
Good discussion. I could have saved some money if I had watched this before... So my conclusion is that the average hobby drone photographer probably doesn't need them. Still, if you're serious about the hobby I guess it is a good thing to experiment with them to better understand the effect they have. Also, maybe a faster pan or, as you say, closer moving subjects could show a bigger difference.
Nothing we can do about those cars can we? 😕