You saved my husband such a head ache. He had been working on his all day long and was about to give up until I seen your video! I went to auto zone and rented the pull hammer and home Depot for the vice grips. It worked on the first pull! Thank you so much!
So, there’s a better manner. It saves time. It’s a little more expensive, but it’s less hassle. They make a product called “cv axle puller”. It looks like a giant claw foot. You stack it between the flute and the differential. As you’re beating it out with that hammer, you’re also prying with the tool. If the claw foot doesn’t go around the flute toward the differential, it acts like a wedge and you can beat it in. After it’s in, just pry and beat until it comes out. If it doesn’t, then the cv axle got pinned over and that is a longer and much more costly project.
Thanks for your comment. I actually have a couple of different sized CV axle puller attachments now. They do look like a thin claw foot spanner. Not sure if they would have helped with this particular setup though. There was almost no gap between the cup and the housing of the differential.
I'm sore, I've pounded and pried for the better part of the afternoon yesterday laying on my back in my driveway and I'm about to give this a try. Thanks for stopping and taking the time to share this, I swear these Volvos are great cars to work on but dealing with corrosion is 95% of the job.
Thank you for commenting. Best of luck to you with it. If it’s not too much trouble, please leave a comment and share what worked for you. If you are still stuck you might want to look through the comments on this video. A lot of people have left some good tips and tricks!
Get a LONG chain, wrap it around the rear of the axle and extend the chain (both ends) outside of the wheel well... then wrap ends of the chain ends around a big bar of block of wood, then hit the block/bar with a hammer. Learnt that from another YT video the other day.
This video was the BEST and MOST helpful. I want to add that the part number for the vise grips you are using is IRHT82573 or 10CR. Very specific set to have the 3x grip. Also, to extend the slide hammer, I used 3ft of threaded rod 7/16 from Lowe's for 5 bucks. Threads right into the vise.
Putting a hose clamp around the vice grip handles will stop it from slipping. I'm amazed that there is not a better tool on the market for pulling axles. I've had my share of stuck ones, and I've searched youtube for solutions. The one that struck me as the most cheap and effective is to slip a strong cable around the transmission end of the axle, tighten the loop with a cable clamp, then loop the other end around a ten pound sledge, and start swinging away from the car.
There is a better tool for pulling axles. It’s called an axle puller. It looks like an overgrown claw foot, but it screws into the slide hammer. You put the claw between the differential and the flute and pry out some as you’re hammering it out. The other way to do this is to take off the other side and use a long chisel it to push the side out the other side. I prefer the easy manner, myself.
Excellent work. Love how you improvised! I had to do something very similar. I ended up cutting 2 through slots (used Dremel cutting disc wheel) in that housing 180 degrees apart where you welded. I then used the slide hammer tool attachment that has the two expanding jaws with teeth to grip into the two slots. Then when using the slide hammer it pulls straight out right in the center axis of the housing. Came out similar to yours! Isn't great that we come up with these ingenious ideas? It took me an extra hour to do it but well worth it. Great job on the Volvo! Thanks for posting!
That’s awesome! So glad you were able to get yours out too. I love the Dremel cutting disc wheel idea! Those things will cut through anything! I always keep cutoff wheels stocked for my Dremel. Wish that had occurred to me when I was trying to pull my axle. Thanks for your comment and kind words! Stay safe!
You my friend saved me from 3 days of hell . This method worked for me as well . Just make sure you bite down hard with the vice grips . A well diserved thumbs up
I had same fight tonight no axle smacker available , I used vice grips hooked a chain to screw on vice grips hooked to cup then gave myself about three feet of chain wrapped around sledge hammer swung out once and bravo.
THIS! This, right here...-THIS- saved me this afternoon. Vice grips, a length of braided cable and my splitting maul swinging like a golf club a bunch of times, but it sure worked in the end once I finally got a good enough bite with the vice grips.
Hi Able, I purchased the set up that you have and had the same trouble with the vise grips slipping. I used my plasma cutter to cut a hole in the side (warning, lots of flames!) which allowed the vise-grips to hold and 5 or 6 whacks and it was out! Thank you so much for sharing!!!
The best way to get a stuck cv axel joint out it is to use the old vc Axel joint and use a pair of vice grips and use the end where there's the joint the contact to inside the cv axel put them to together and then use the vice grips to clip it on the outer side of the cv boot and slide the cv axel back toward u really fast it might take a few but it will come right out
nothing wrong with the tool, hooks would have been better, but guessing there was no clearance, severe rust requiring severe measures, bravo to you sir and thank you for the instruction
Thank you for your kind words. Can’t remember all the factors leading up to the way I did it but it worked out. Look through the comments and you will find some other creative ways to get this job done. I think it’s great that so many like to contribute by sharing their ideas and what worked for them!
Hi Fixable, I just used your advice using the Visegrip to pull my next set of CV axles that were stuck. This time, I gripped the Vise-grip while my wife operated the slide hammer. This allowed the Vise Grip to hold during the pulling process and it worked really well. If you don't have someone to help you, put a zip-tie around the handle to hold it in place while you operate the slide hammer. Thank you again for the video!
Hi Bruce, I’m glad you found my video helpful and the Visegrip method worked for you! Sounds like you and your wife make a good team. That’s a good tip about holding the handle while pulling. I’m sure it will help others reading through the comments. Thank you for commenting and sharing your success!
Went straight to my garage and found my slide hammer has the attachment plus I have some Irwin vice grips that it fits. Ready to tackle the inner joint tomorrow. Many thanks
That's a great trick that you used with the slide hammer and welding the vise grip to the axle cup. I think there's an easier way to do it though from what Ive seen on other axle cups in the center of that axle cup especially the one you have, you should have a release pin you could easily use a 3/8 6-in extension and Hammer and just hammer out the release pin using the 3/8 6-in extension and Hammer. If you have 2 people one to hammer and one to pull it would probably help out better to pull it off. Or you could also rent a axle cup puller tool and save hours as well.👍
Thank you. I spent all day trying to get the inner unstuck. Found the same hammer kit. Was off in an hour. Next got to get the spindle out of the wheel bearing.
Travis, Thanks for your comment! Wow you are getting hit with trouble on both ends! Are you up north where the roads are salted? I’m down south where it never snows. Luckily I didn’t have any trouble separating the axle from the wheel bearing/hub.
@@fiveable I'm in Iowa, yup the cv axle snapped in half. This is the first one I've ever had do that. Try tomorrow to get the spindle out. Thanks again.
After watching this I welded my vise grip adjuster screw to my small dent puller slide hammer shaft and the stuck shaft came out after about 6 min.. weld a spot on the stuck shaft so the vise grips(Menard's 5.99) don't slide off. Thanks, very good diy.
I needed this right now. I have been working on my 2005 mazda3 hatchback for 5 days with no luck getting the inner cv axle to budge. Tried every method mentioned in the comments and video, no luck, I am trying this tonight just got myself the slide hammer and vice grips at harbor freight, again thanks for the upload and good video.
It worked! We had to try just a couple more times than you did after welding, but it popped right out. I have never had so much trouble with one part. This is a sure fire way to get that inner cv axle out, thanks.
I made one of these tools up years ago, for no particular job, but its so useful for getting a good straight pull, a little grinding paste is good to improve grip between the jaws. Thanks for sharing. Put copper grease on the new part.
Just found this comment. Sorry for not replying 11 months ago! Thanks for the tip about Grinding Paste I'll definitely add that to my list of tricks! When you mention Copper Grease are you talking about a copper based anti-seize? I have a jar of the alumnimum based anti-seize. When I did this axle just cleaned as much of the rust out as I could and used brown grease liberally. Wasn't sure if the anti-seize I had would be too much.
I saw another similar video and the guy solved the problem of the vice grips coming off by taping the clamp with duct tape so it couldn't open and yank off. Thanks for the video!
I have that slide hammer set and didn’t even realize that piece was in it. Btw, it did fit my Milwaukee vice grips. Was trying forever to pry it off and with this set-up it took just 4 blows and it was out.
After hours of struggle, this worked for me. Advance Auto Parts has a rental kit with a slide puller and an adapter that replaces the set screw in the Vice-Grip Irwin vice grips. The other end threads onto the slide puller thread. Minutes later, the inner joint is out. Thank you for this video. The problem was the retainer ring was expanded. There are videos on how to fix that (after you get the old CV joint out) or you can run out and buy a new one.
thank you paid 55 bucks for the slide hammer at harbor freight and worth is weight in gold came of with 4 whacks been trying to get of for three days!!
just a couple tips, 1) just pull the knuckle and get it out of the way, sometimes we try to cheat by not taking other things in our way off 2) you can wrap a towel around the slide hammer and just pull the towel towards you and you will save your hands from getting hurt
@@fiveable just to be clear, wrap a medium size towel(about two and a half feet) around the sledge hammer once so you have about 7 inches on both sides dangling for you to grab, then just pull the sides of the towel, without touch the slide hammer with your hands at all, the slide hammers come in handy more for pulling the hub when replacing the hub, bearing, or both if the hub is bent and is warping your rotors....which tends to happen after hitting a curb or speed bump too hard
I had the same problem. The vise grip just keep slipping. What I did was grind a spot inside the peace that your struggling with a small grinder. That would give the vise grip a good place to bite down and won’t slip off. With three pulls it came off.
my man. great work. i had all the right tools waiting for me. never thought of combining vice grip with sliding hammer. great work my man and thanks for the help
after experiencing similar difficulties my solution was to drill 3/8 hole in area you had vice grips on (no cv joint disassembly needed) and attached included hook from kit to same puller tool. insert in hole and three vigorous tugs later cv assy came right out. i had to turn in old joint so i hid hole with tape :>)
Thank you so much. This video and tool was a blessing. My 2008 escape passenger cv was so frozen on. As a last resort after watching this I did exactly as you prescribed. I had to weld a machine bolt inside the cap... but once the channel locks could lock on.. it was off in about twenty bangs... still was a bugger but without your video... id still be without my 240K escape ... thanks again
Strange to see so much rust in a component that is completely encased inside the diff. One would think the oil in the diff would have controlled rust, but maybe a previous owner let it run dry from a leaking seal before resale.
You saved my tail. Thought I was going to have to make this tool. Went to HF, I already had the straight jaw Irwin grips, which bit right in.. thing popped out in 30 seconds. Best of all, I can still use my vise grips. Thanks for this.
Five Able Yea.. saved a lot of time too, not having to run around and all. Spent 4 hrs the night before, prying, trying to noose some old 3/32 cable (broke it) to a sledge, grinding deeper grooves in the cup for prying etc.. and nothing. This normalized my blood pressure.. You deserve this beer..🍻
Good job, About to do mine just preparing myself if it is stuck. it might have cost you a little for more tools but you have them for the next job also.
-3ft. of 7/16"x14 threaded rod=$3 -pack of 7/16"x14 hex nuts=$1 -pack of 1/2"idx2"od washers=$1 -heaviest 1/2" drive impact socket you own..I used a 37mm. BOOM BANG POW!!!..done deal.
It’s a list of parts to make a home made version of the slide hammer. I haven’t verified it but I’m guessing the 7/16x14 rod will thread directly into a vice grip tool.
I used same method on stuck CV axle. With the vise grips but used the axle as the slide hammer..slide axle in the housing clamp the vise grip and pull..
It did cross my mind (by the way), when you mentioned, weld a lip. I thought perhaps, drilling a self tapping screw, then clamp vice grips, that will end the waste of time, of reclamping bcuz of slips.. for for thought.
Yes someone else has mentioned they drilled and used a bolt but the cups on mine were hardened. Seemed like it would be difficult and time consuming to drill. Since I had a cheap wire welder handy it was easier to zap it.
For those that find this helpful I used the straight clamps and kept slipping( even tried suggestion for hose clamp around vise grips as well) I finally ended up using vise grip locking chain clamps and went behind the cup from underside and latched them on top (didn't have to be tight just snug no play) and boom two hits it came off
Thanks @tjordan7067! Keep at it! Take a break when you feel like you are about to go ape and mess something else up. I’m sure you will get it! If it isn’t budging at all, you might try rotating the cup and pushing it back into the gearbox. This might help free the lock ring up so it can compress on the way out.
Yeah, I've got one of these attachement from OTC for my slide hammer/vice grips but as usual from up the top or sliding from underneath, getting at the thing to make my swing is a pain in the arse. Subaru Impreza pain not enough space.
Drill hole in thin part of bucket use A chain put bolt through link and through hole drilled attach steel handle and give it sharp tugs I have removed 3 so far with this system
Thanks William. I considered that but the buckets of my original Volvo axles are hardened steel. Are the ones you drill through hardened as well? If so, how do you drill through them. Special bits? I would imagine more people have access to a drill than a welder.
I have tried that and nothing. But i will have to rent until i can own one myself lol hopefully one of these days i will get it. Haha going on 2 weeks fighting with this damn cv axle on my 2013 nissan rogue. The struggle and pain is real 🤣
I hope you get it. Someone needs to re-engineer cv axles. This problem is way too common! Have you tried pushing it in (tap with a mallet) before pulling? That might cause the lock ring to move just enough to release when pulling.
@@fiveable yup tried that also. Also tried using penetrating fluid and wd40. Tried using a slide hammer with the cv axle puller attachment. And still nothing. Mind boggling because all i need to do is get it out and i can het my new one in. Frustrating haha
I would heat it up slowly and just enough to get the whole cup to feel like it’s holding some heat. Guessing 400-500 degrees max would be plenty. Definitely not red hot! Even an electronic heat gun and some patience might work. Keep working it in/out while it’s cooling down. Maybe it will give. Fingers crossed here for you!
TRY THIS IF YOUR IN A PINCH! Step 1 Rip the axle out. Step 2 cut the boot off the axle you just removed. Step 3 insert the axle right back into the thing your trying to remove. Step 4 put locking pliers on the thing your trying to remove and lock down the pliers as tight as you can. Step 5 slam the axle back and forth against the locking pliers until it pulls out.
Hi Dan. That's a really good tip! I have one of those HF tire changing rods now too. Next time I'll give it a try first! BTW, I have never changed a tire with it but have found the tire changing rod to be really useful. I actually use it more than the handled pry bars HF sells because it's thinner and better at getting in tight spots.
@@fiveable if you have two of those irons you can change your own tires. Just changed a set two weeks ago for my Metro. Go to RUclips to find out the method.
As others have asked, why was the inside of the axle so dry and rusty? That was the problem. If there was oil in there and the axle was stuck, it would be just due to an overly stiff expansion ring. Does that Volvo have a hidden jack-shaft on the left side of the car? Most have those on the right side.
I wish I had a good answer for you about why it's so dry. I have looked and researched to see if maybe there is a separate section for gear oil like a differential but it's all integrated in the Aisin AW55-5X SN. Since no separate differential I can only assume the transmission fluid was low. Still though 272,000+ miles on the transmissions and still shifts great (until tomorrow now that I have jinxed myself. Anyway. No jack-shaft on this setup that I know of. My V70 is front wheel drive only so it's not as complex as the all wheel drive versions. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Mu trick was to tie a rope around the cv axle or joint, wrap the rope around myself and yank as hard as possible. If you have something sturdy you could wrap it around that instead and yank
Excellent video. Did you create a lip for your grips with just tacks if weld or did you tack weld a piece of metal to create the lip. Never saw the inside of the housing in your video
Very fucking annoying problem! I ended up using a bike security cable. wrapped it around the cv joint and stuck crowbar into the eyelets and hammered the crowbar. It popped out in a hurry! I honestly never expected that to work but I was desperate and trying anything at that point.
What kind of engineer designed a seal for the cup you were pulling on? There is supposed to be oil in the housing that cup was mounted in hence the seal behind the cup when it was removed. Maybe a little oil in there would go a long way in solving this problem or even grease or Never Seize.
I just found your comment. My apologies, I usually reply within a day. I do think the heat added when I welded a spot on the cup might have helped. I would go easy on the heat unless you are planning on replacing the rubber seal where the shaft enters the transmission. If it isn’t budging at all you might try pushing the shaft back into the transmission and rotating it, then pull again. The idea is to free ring clip, around the splined end, just enough so it might get a better start and come on out. Also, if you can find a CV axle adapter (crow’s foot) for your slide hammer, that’s the best tool for the job. I didn’t have one when I made the video but I do now.
That’s what I thought too! I never quite figured it out. Checked fluids and never found it to be low. The transmission had about 220k miles on it when I filmed the video and it lasted another 55k miles after replacing the axle, then at 275k miles the torque converter went out.
My God, I've been battling with my son's 2006 Jetta for a month in my spare time. What a PIA. What were the guys at VW thinking? I've done my Passat easily as the CV axles are bolted on. At any rate I am going to try this approach as the many other ones found on RUclips have not worked. With that said, what was it that you welded? Do I need to do that as well or should the vise grip alone do the trick? I do own several Irwin vice grips so I'm covered there. Thanks for taking the time to share this. Wish me luck.Mark
Yeah, I am experiencing the vice grip slipping off the steel as well. The scoring idea may work. I do have a Dremel oscillating tool but it's difficult to get at the cup. Maybe I should bite the bullet and buy a rotary version as they come with smaller grinding wheels, I don't have a welder but I'm wondering if I should have one. Do you have one you can recommend?
Does it matter if the transmission is in neutral or park? I noticed your cup was turning a bit as you pulled on it. BTW, I tried scoring it today with a Dremel and while it did improve the grip it still wasn't enough. I'll try again tomorrow with scoring a different section. I see some videos where people have drilled a hole from one side to the other and pulled it out but it's a tough angle from underneath. I appreciate your feedback on my questions. It helps. I have visions of that moment when the damn thing finally comes out! Thanks
Hey, thanks for checking in. I threw in the towel and wound up taking it to the dealership. Come to find out instead of pulling the old axle and replacing it as I thought they would they just replaced the boots. Bought me some time I guess. I did try like hell to get it out. I never worked so hard to remove a part from a car. I appreciate your feedback during the process.
Today I changed my Honda Pilot CV Joint Axle on passenger side and I got a problem of the inner joint stuck like on this video. I need to figure out to fix this problem.
Since I don't have a welder...perhaps drill two holes on opposite sides of the housing, then run a bolt through. Bend a piece of all-thread into a hook. Join the hook to the hammer slide with a coupler. Hook over the bolt.
Thanks FiveAble. I tried the cable. No luck. What finally did work was a guy's suggestion to pry at 3 and 9 o'clock at the same time. You might have given me an excuse to learn to weld.
I'm glad you got it out. To me it seemed like a whole lot of wasted time, as I did go thru that once. The outter part didn't have an edge to which jar a pry bar. But looking at that rusted spline makes you wonder, is there fluid in tranny..lol. That's always lubricated with oil. Anyways, I am not looking thru videos, bcuz once again, I am facing this dilemma. Wondering if anyone has found a more positive way to remove axel with no edge to pop out
I agree, it is a major waste of time when they get stuck. In the end I was glad I got it out without breaking something else like the tranny casing. Not sure why so dry and rusty. Levels checked seemed fine with fluid at normal operating temperature. Have since flushed the transmission and added over 50k miles with no transmission issues. Thanks for commenting! Hope you are able to remove yours without too much trouble. Seems like Volvo/Aisin could have designed it a little better with enough space behind it to allow for one of those crows foot adapters.
@@fiveable Mine is an 05 Chrysler Town and country.. I've done it many times. I'm turning 60 next month, and frankly, I've lost that desire to meddle with these repetitive issues. Lucky I'm using a Milwaukee electric impact gun and ratchet.. I sure ain't using MY arms for loosening anything. Lol. But, this Cvjoint doesn't have an edge lip where to jar a pry bar.. I'm just sitting here pondering on how to.. hehe. Be safe.
@@fiveable I used to work for Milwaukee Electric Tools, when they were in Woodside Queens NY, back in early 90's.. we were a repair station. It was bought out by Ryobi some years back, sad to say.. but yeah, good tools.
I hope you get it without too much trouble. I'd be interested in knowing if you have the same rust problem I had. Not sure why it would be that dry in there. Thanks for commenting!
I agree but the cup was right up against the seal. Would have been next to impossible to get penetrating oil deep enough to work. Besides that I had no idea it was dry and didn’t want to dilute or contaminate any gear oil or transmission fluid that might be behind the seal.
Thank you so much man! Price on slide hammer is now $100 at Harbor Freight but still cheaper than sending to the shop.
I’m glad you saved some money and didn’t have to take your car to the shop! Thanks for the comment!
You saved my husband such a head ache. He had been working on his all day long and was about to give up until I seen your video! I went to auto zone and rented the pull hammer and home Depot for the vice grips. It worked on the first pull! Thank you so much!
We do! If he can't figure something out, I usually can! Thanks again!
@@shannonclark1151 damn where are all the girls where you come from? No gf would or could help me on my cars
So, there’s a better manner. It saves time. It’s a little more expensive, but it’s less hassle. They make a product called “cv axle puller”. It looks like a giant claw foot. You stack it between the flute and the differential. As you’re beating it out with that hammer, you’re also prying with the tool. If the claw foot doesn’t go around the flute toward the differential, it acts like a wedge and you can beat it in. After it’s in, just pry and beat until it comes out. If it doesn’t, then the cv axle got pinned over and that is a longer and much more costly project.
Thanks for your comment. I actually have a couple of different sized CV axle puller attachments now. They do look like a thin claw foot spanner. Not sure if they would have helped with this particular setup though. There was almost no gap between the cup and the housing of the differential.
I'm sore, I've pounded and pried for the better part of the afternoon yesterday laying on my back in my driveway and I'm about to give this a try. Thanks for stopping and taking the time to share this, I swear these Volvos are great cars to work on but dealing with corrosion is 95% of the job.
Thank you for commenting. Best of luck to you with it. If it’s not too much trouble, please leave a comment and share what worked for you. If you are still stuck you might want to look through the comments on this video. A lot of people have left some good tips and tricks!
Get a LONG chain, wrap it around the rear of the axle and extend the chain (both ends) outside of the wheel well... then wrap ends of the chain ends around a big bar of block of wood, then hit the block/bar with a hammer. Learnt that from another YT video the other day.
Yep, lots of tricks out there to do this job. Always helps to share the different ways. If one way doesn’t work, try another. Thanks for commenting!
This video was the BEST and MOST helpful. I want to add that the part number for the vise grips you are using is IRHT82573 or 10CR. Very specific set to have the 3x grip. Also, to extend the slide hammer, I used 3ft of threaded rod 7/16 from Lowe's for 5 bucks. Threads right into the vise.
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Putting a hose clamp around the vice grip handles will stop it from slipping. I'm amazed that there is not a better tool on the market for pulling axles. I've had my share of stuck ones, and I've searched youtube for solutions. The one that struck me as the most cheap and effective is to slip a strong cable around the transmission end of the axle, tighten the loop with a cable clamp, then loop the other end around a ten pound sledge, and start swinging away from the car.
There is a better tool for pulling axles. It’s called an axle puller. It looks like an overgrown claw foot, but it screws into the slide hammer. You put the claw between the differential and the flute and pry out some as you’re hammering it out. The other way to do this is to take off the other side and use a long chisel it to push the side out the other side. I prefer the easy manner, myself.
Best words! " Walk away, and think about a different approach ", Great job!
Thank you Dennis!
Excellent work. Love how you improvised! I had to do something very similar. I ended up cutting 2 through slots (used Dremel cutting disc wheel) in that housing 180 degrees apart where you welded. I then used the slide hammer tool attachment that has the two expanding jaws with teeth to grip into the two slots. Then when using the slide hammer it pulls straight out right in the center axis of the housing. Came out similar to yours! Isn't great that we come up with these ingenious ideas? It took me an extra hour to do it but well worth it. Great job on the Volvo! Thanks for posting!
That’s awesome! So glad you were able to get yours out too. I love the Dremel cutting disc wheel idea! Those things will cut through anything! I always keep cutoff wheels stocked for my Dremel. Wish that had occurred to me when I was trying to pull my axle. Thanks for your comment and kind words! Stay safe!
You sir are my hero. I have been fighting with this for 3 days now, thank you for this video!!!
The world needs more thoughtful people like you. You have helped a lot of people with your repair video. GBY !
You my friend saved me from 3 days of hell . This method worked for me as well . Just make sure you bite down hard with the vice grips . A well diserved thumbs up
Make sure all grease and oil is out of, around and on any nearby surfaces of cup. Grease could catch fire while welding. Great job!!
Very true. That’s why I had a fire extinguisher handy at the time. You can see it in the video. 😊
I had same fight tonight no axle smacker available , I used vice grips hooked a chain to screw on vice grips hooked to cup then gave myself about three feet of chain wrapped around sledge hammer swung out once and bravo.
THIS! This, right here...-THIS- saved me this afternoon. Vice grips, a length of braided cable and my splitting maul swinging like a golf club a bunch of times, but it sure worked in the end once I finally got a good enough bite with the vice grips.
Hi Able, I purchased the set up that you have and had the same trouble with the vise grips slipping. I used my plasma cutter to cut a hole in the side (warning, lots of flames!) which allowed the vise-grips to hold and 5 or 6 whacks and it was out! Thank you so much for sharing!!!
The best way to get a stuck cv axel joint out it is to use the old vc Axel joint and use a pair of vice grips and use the end where there's the joint the contact to inside the cv axel put them to together and then use the vice grips to clip it on the outer side of the cv boot and slide the cv axel back toward u really fast it might take a few but it will come right out
nothing wrong with the tool, hooks would have been better, but guessing there was no clearance, severe rust requiring severe measures, bravo to you sir and thank you for the instruction
Thank you for your kind words. Can’t remember all the factors leading up to the way I did it but it worked out. Look through the comments and you will find some other creative ways to get this job done. I think it’s great that so many like to contribute by sharing their ideas and what worked for them!
Hi Fixable, I just used your advice using the Visegrip to pull my next set of CV axles that were stuck. This time, I gripped the Vise-grip while my wife operated the slide hammer. This allowed the Vise Grip to hold during the pulling process and it worked really well. If you don't have someone to help you, put a zip-tie around the handle to hold it in place while you operate the slide hammer. Thank you again for the video!
Hi Bruce, I’m glad you found my video helpful and the Visegrip method worked for you! Sounds like you and your wife make a good team. That’s a good tip about holding the handle while pulling. I’m sure it will help others reading through the comments. Thank you for commenting and sharing your success!
Went straight to my garage and found my slide hammer has the attachment plus I have some Irwin vice grips that it fits. Ready to tackle the inner joint tomorrow. Many thanks
Best of luck with it! Thanks for commenting!
@@fiveable Worked on 3rd attempt !!!
Awesome!
Did this today and the cup came out with three wacks! Thanks bro!
Honestly thank you! I forgot all about the slide hammer! Jogged my memory!!!
I was going at it for hours!
That's a great trick that you used with the slide hammer and welding the vise grip to the axle cup. I think there's an easier way to do it though from what Ive seen on other axle cups in the center of that axle cup especially the one you have, you should have a release pin you could easily use a 3/8 6-in extension and Hammer and just hammer out the release pin using the 3/8 6-in extension and Hammer. If you have 2 people one to hammer and one to pull it would probably help out better to pull it off. Or you could also rent a axle cup puller tool and save hours as well.👍
Thank you. I spent all day trying to get the inner unstuck. Found the same hammer kit. Was off in an hour. Next got to get the spindle out of the wheel bearing.
Travis, Thanks for your comment! Wow you are getting hit with trouble on both ends! Are you up north where the roads are salted? I’m down south where it never snows. Luckily I didn’t have any trouble separating the axle from the wheel bearing/hub.
@@fiveable I'm in Iowa, yup the cv axle snapped in half. This is the first one I've ever had do that. Try tomorrow to get the spindle out. Thanks again.
After watching this I welded my vise grip adjuster screw to my small dent puller slide hammer shaft and the stuck shaft came out after about 6 min.. weld a spot on the stuck shaft so the vise grips(Menard's 5.99) don't slide off. Thanks, very good diy.
I needed this right now. I have been working on my 2005 mazda3 hatchback for 5 days with no luck getting the inner cv axle to budge. Tried every method mentioned in the comments and video, no luck, I am trying this tonight just got myself the slide hammer and vice grips at harbor freight, again thanks for the upload and good video.
It worked! We had to try just a couple more times than you did after welding, but it popped right out. I have never had so much trouble with one part. This is a sure fire way to get that inner cv axle out, thanks.
You are my hero, I was anxious for you. I had to take mine to a shop i gave up. Good job
Thank you! I’ll admit I was worried I might have to take mine to the shop too.
I made one of these tools up years ago, for no particular job, but its so useful for getting a good straight pull, a little grinding paste is good to improve grip between the jaws.
Thanks for sharing. Put copper grease on the new part.
Just found this comment. Sorry for not replying 11 months ago! Thanks for the tip about Grinding Paste I'll definitely add that to my list of tricks! When you mention Copper Grease are you talking about a copper based anti-seize? I have a jar of the alumnimum based anti-seize. When I did this axle just cleaned as much of the rust out as I could and used brown grease liberally. Wasn't sure if the anti-seize I had would be too much.
I saw another similar video and the guy solved the problem of the vice grips coming off by taping the clamp with duct tape so it couldn't open and yank off. Thanks for the video!
I have that slide hammer set and didn’t even realize that piece was in it. Btw, it did fit my Milwaukee vice grips. Was trying forever to pry it off and with this set-up it took just 4 blows and it was out.
Glad it worked for you too. Good to know about the adapter compatibility with Milwaukee vice grips. Thank you for commenting and sharing your success!
After hours of struggle, this worked for me. Advance Auto Parts has a rental kit with a slide puller and an adapter that replaces the set screw in the Vice-Grip Irwin vice grips. The other end threads onto the slide puller thread. Minutes later, the inner joint is out. Thank you for this video.
The problem was the retainer ring was expanded. There are videos on how to fix that (after you get the old CV joint out) or you can run out and buy a new one.
Glad you got past the problem. The struggle is real. Thank you for taking the time to comment and share your success!
The inner joint got tired and gave up. Great job.
I’m thankful it gave up before I did. Thank you for your kind comment!
thank you paid 55 bucks for the slide hammer at harbor freight and worth is weight in gold came of with 4 whacks been trying to get of for three days!!
BallasTV2 where did you get the attachment to attach the vise grips
harbor freight its a kit like 60 bucks
its in the kit
just a couple tips, 1) just pull the knuckle and get it out of the way, sometimes we try to cheat by not taking other things in our way off 2) you can wrap a towel around the slide hammer and just pull the towel towards you and you will save your hands from getting hurt
@@fiveable just to be clear, wrap a medium size towel(about two and a half feet) around the sledge hammer once so you have about 7 inches on both sides dangling for you to grab, then just pull the sides of the towel, without touch the slide hammer with your hands at all, the slide hammers come in handy more for pulling the hub when replacing the hub, bearing, or both if the hub is bent and is warping your rotors....which tends to happen after hitting a curb or speed bump too hard
I had the same problem. The vise grip just keep slipping. What I did was grind a spot inside the peace that your struggling with a small grinder. That would give the vise grip a good place to bite down and won’t slip off. With three pulls it came off.
Grinder is a great idea since most people don’t have a welder!
my man. great work. i had all the right tools waiting for me. never thought of combining vice grip with sliding hammer. great work my man and thanks for the help
That’s great! Glad you had all the tools available and you found my video helpful! Thank you for the kind comment and sharing your success! ✌🏻
after experiencing similar difficulties my solution was to drill 3/8 hole in area you had vice grips on (no cv joint disassembly needed) and attached included hook from kit to same puller tool. insert in hole and three vigorous tugs later cv assy came right out. i had to turn in old joint so i hid hole with tape :>)
Nice! I’m guessing the cup on your cv joint assembly wasn’t made of hardened steel. Thanks for leaving a comment!
Thank you so much. This video and tool was a blessing. My 2008 escape passenger cv was so frozen on. As a last resort after watching this I did exactly as you prescribed. I had to weld a machine bolt inside the cap... but once the channel locks could lock on.. it was off in about twenty bangs... still was a bugger but without your video... id still be without my 240K escape ... thanks again
That was great. It had a lot of rust. It really helps to see the importance of grease on the ends of the axle. Thanks!
Thanks for your kind comment! Hope you have a great day! 👍🏻✌🏻
Strange to see so much rust in a component that is completely encased inside the diff. One would think the oil in the diff would have controlled rust, but maybe a previous owner let it run dry from a leaking seal before resale.
That ring seal deal on that shaft will put a whipping on yah!
Thank you for the informational. Stopped me from braking the case. Still going to be a royal pain in the @$$.
No gear oil was put in at the factory. I've never seen rust like that. Good job 👍
Big respect! Adapt, Improvise and overcome! 💪
Thank you William! I really appreciate your comment!
@@fiveable you are welcome 🙂
This is what DYI car repair is really like! Thanks
Hi Andre! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I like people who think outside the box..........Subscribed.
You rock! Thanks for the comment and subscription!!
You saved my tail. Thought I was going to have to make this tool. Went to HF, I already had the straight jaw Irwin grips, which bit right in.. thing popped out in 30 seconds. Best of all, I can still use my vise grips. Thanks for this.
Five Able Yea.. saved a lot of time too, not having to run around and all. Spent 4 hrs the night before, prying, trying to noose some old 3/32 cable (broke it) to a sledge, grinding deeper grooves in the cup for prying etc.. and nothing. This normalized my blood pressure.. You deserve this beer..🍻
Perseverance and imagination win the day!
Not all heroes wear capes. Thank you sir.
I know it's going to help for me I have the same problem that's why I'm here on RUclips checking it out
😉😋
You are the man!!!!!! Freakin worked perfect!!!!! Man been workin on this thing for 6 hours and bam came right out , I really appreciate it
Nice!
Good job, About to do mine just preparing myself if it is stuck. it might have cost you a little for more tools but you have them for the next job also.
OK he did it. But that was very funny when he appeared with the welding shield and gear. THank you.
Thanks @Earthstein! Glad it made you laugh! 😊
-3ft. of 7/16"x14 threaded rod=$3
-pack of 7/16"x14 hex nuts=$1
-pack of 1/2"idx2"od washers=$1
-heaviest 1/2" drive impact socket you own..I used a 37mm.
BOOM BANG POW!!!..done deal.
Nice! Thanks for sharing the info!
Can you please explain what are you talking about? I may be able to use it?
It’s a list of parts to make a home made version of the slide hammer. I haven’t verified it but I’m guessing the 7/16x14 rod will thread directly into a vice grip tool.
I used same method on stuck CV axle. With the vise grips but used the axle as the slide hammer..slide axle in the housing clamp the vise grip and pull..
Nice trick! Thanks for commenting!
Always on the driver's side. Lol Same issue. Good to know about the adapter
Thanks for commenting!
It did cross my mind (by the way), when you mentioned, weld a lip. I thought perhaps, drilling a self tapping screw, then clamp vice grips, that will end the waste of time, of reclamping bcuz of slips.. for for thought.
Yes someone else has mentioned they drilled and used a bolt but the cups on mine were hardened. Seemed like it would be difficult and time consuming to drill. Since I had a cheap wire welder handy it was easier to zap it.
For those that find this helpful I used the straight clamps and kept slipping( even tried suggestion for hose clamp around vise grips as well) I finally ended up using vise grip locking chain clamps and went behind the cup from underside and latched them on top (didn't have to be tight just snug no play) and boom two hits it came off
@@fiveable no thank you for the video you definitely got me farther than I was gave me a brain boost
Boy that thing gave u trouble but guess what u got it thanks my brother im having the same problem right now...
Thanks @tjordan7067! Keep at it! Take a break when you feel like you are about to go ape and mess something else up. I’m sure you will get it!
If it isn’t budging at all, you might try rotating the cup and pushing it back into the gearbox. This might help free the lock ring up so it can compress on the way out.
Yeah, I've got one of these attachement from OTC for my slide hammer/vice grips but as usual from up the top or sliding from underneath, getting at the thing to make my swing is a pain in the arse. Subaru Impreza pain not enough space.
Drill hole in thin part of bucket use
A chain put bolt through link and through hole drilled attach steel handle and give it sharp tugs I have removed 3 so far with this system
Thanks William. I considered that but the buckets of my original Volvo axles are hardened steel. Are the ones you drill through hardened as well? If so, how do you drill through them. Special bits? I would imagine more people have access to a drill than a welder.
I have tried that and nothing. But i will have to rent until i can own one myself lol hopefully one of these days i will get it. Haha going on 2 weeks fighting with this damn cv axle on my 2013 nissan rogue. The struggle and pain is real 🤣
I hope you get it. Someone needs to re-engineer cv axles. This problem is way too common! Have you tried pushing it in (tap with a mallet) before pulling? That might cause the lock ring to move just enough to release when pulling.
@@fiveable yup tried that also. Also tried using penetrating fluid and wd40. Tried using a slide hammer with the cv axle puller attachment. And still nothing. Mind boggling because all i need to do is get it out and i can het my new one in. Frustrating haha
Maybe a little heat applied directly to the axle cup? Heat might not be good for the seal but I typically replace the seal when I replace an axle.
@@fiveable i tried using a torch also. Maybe i can heat it up more. How long you think?
I would heat it up slowly and just enough to get the whole cup to feel like it’s holding some heat. Guessing 400-500 degrees max would be plenty. Definitely not red hot! Even an electronic heat gun and some patience might work. Keep working it in/out while it’s cooling down. Maybe it will give. Fingers crossed here for you!
TRY THIS IF YOUR IN A PINCH! Step 1 Rip the axle out. Step 2 cut the boot off the axle you just removed. Step 3 insert the axle right back into the thing your trying to remove. Step 4 put locking pliers on the thing your trying to remove and lock down the pliers as tight as you can. Step 5 slam the axle back and forth against the locking pliers until it pulls out.
steel hose clamp on the vice grip handle stops it popping open when the hammer hits.
I accidentally grabbed a harbour freight tire changing rod. I would say its almost made tor the job.
Hi Dan. That's a really good tip! I have one of those HF tire changing rods now too. Next time I'll give it a try first! BTW, I have never changed a tire with it but have found the tire changing rod to be really useful. I actually use it more than the handled pry bars HF sells because it's thinner and better at getting in tight spots.
@@fiveable if you have two of those irons you can change your own tires. Just changed a set two weeks ago for my Metro. Go to RUclips to find out the method.
As others have asked, why was the inside of the axle so dry and rusty? That was the problem. If there was oil in there and the axle was stuck, it would be just due to an overly stiff expansion ring. Does that Volvo have a hidden jack-shaft on the left side of the car? Most have those on the right side.
I wish I had a good answer for you about why it's so dry. I have looked and researched to see if maybe there is a separate section for gear oil like a differential but it's all integrated in the Aisin AW55-5X SN. Since no separate differential I can only assume the transmission fluid was low. Still though 272,000+ miles on the transmissions and still shifts great (until tomorrow now that I have jinxed myself. Anyway. No jack-shaft on this setup that I know of. My V70 is front wheel drive only so it's not as complex as the all wheel drive versions. Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Mu trick was to tie a rope around the cv axle or joint, wrap the rope around myself and yank as hard as possible. If you have something sturdy you could wrap it around that instead and yank
God bless you.... i got a 2006 Ford Fusion SEL and I can not get the Axle cup out as well.... I will try this again this weekend
Hey, did ya get it out yet using this?
Thanks alot man, was skeptical but then it worked after two hits!
once in a while you get shown the light in the strangest of places if you look at it right ---___---
I sincerely appreciate the video and the help!
When vice grips won't stay closed cause of overlock use a good zip tie around handles.
Hi Michael, Thanks for commenting and sharing the ziplock trick!
Excellent video. Did you create a lip for your grips with just tacks if weld or did you tack weld a piece of metal to create the lip. Never saw the inside of the housing in your video
great idea. thanks for sharing
Thank you Karel!
Great job & thanks for the video 👍🏼
Very fucking annoying problem! I ended up using a bike security cable. wrapped it around the cv joint and stuck crowbar into the eyelets and hammered the crowbar. It popped out in a hurry! I honestly never expected that to work but I was desperate and trying anything at that point.
I like your method! Glad you found a way to get the job done. You are right, the problem is super annoying any way too common. Thanks for commenting!
What gear should it be in to remove the axle? Do you keep it in park?
It has been a while but I’m pretty sure I left in park.
What kind of engineer designed a seal for the cup you were pulling on? There is supposed to be oil in the housing that cup was mounted in hence the seal behind the cup when it was removed. Maybe a little oil in there would go a long way in solving this problem or even grease or Never Seize.
I just drilled a good size hole in the cup and used a hook and chain
What if I tried the slide hammer and it still didn’t bulge ? Could I possibly apply heat ?
I just found your comment. My apologies, I usually reply within a day. I do think the heat added when I welded a spot on the cup might have helped. I would go easy on the heat unless you are planning on replacing the rubber seal where the shaft enters the transmission. If it isn’t budging at all you might try pushing the shaft back into the transmission and rotating it, then pull again. The idea is to free ring clip, around the splined end, just enough so it might get a better start and come on out. Also, if you can find a CV axle adapter (crow’s foot) for your slide hammer, that’s the best tool for the job. I didn’t have one when I made the video but I do now.
@@fiveable ok got ya I’m gonna try that I appreciate it
Great video. Thanks for posting
Thank you Dustin!
There's something I'm missing. Isn't the stub shaft in a bath of transmishion fluid?
That’s what I thought too! I never quite figured it out. Checked fluids and never found it to be low. The transmission had about 220k miles on it when I filmed the video and it lasted another 55k miles after replacing the axle, then at 275k miles the torque converter went out.
Thanks for sharing, buddy!
Wow ,thanks for sharing!
Hey GREAT video. Thanks man.
The trick is,it has to come out very straight or you will be there all weekend hammering lol some vw have the same set up
11:53 My only question is: How does it get so rusty? Isn't it supposed to be bathed in gear oil?
My axle doesn’t turn as easy as yours. is there a reason why?? Car have to be in nuetral
My God, I've been battling with my son's 2006 Jetta for a month in my spare time. What a PIA. What were the guys at VW thinking? I've done my Passat easily as the CV axles are bolted on. At any rate I am going to try this approach as the many other ones found on RUclips have not worked. With that said, what was it that you welded? Do I need to do that as well or should the vise grip alone do the trick? I do own several Irwin vice grips so I'm covered there. Thanks for taking the time to share this. Wish me luck.Mark
Yeah, I am experiencing the vice grip slipping off the steel as well. The scoring idea may work. I do have a Dremel oscillating tool but it's difficult to get at the cup. Maybe I should bite the bullet and buy a rotary version as they come with smaller grinding wheels, I don't have a welder but I'm wondering if I should have one. Do you have one you can recommend?
Does it matter if the transmission is in neutral or park? I noticed your cup was turning a bit as you pulled on it. BTW, I tried scoring it today with a Dremel and while it did improve the grip it still wasn't enough. I'll try again tomorrow with scoring a different section. I see some videos where people have drilled a hole from one side to the other and pulled it out but it's a tough angle from underneath. I appreciate your feedback on my questions. It helps. I have visions of that moment when the damn thing finally comes out! Thanks
Hey, thanks for checking in. I threw in the towel and wound up taking it to the dealership. Come to find out instead of pulling the old axle and replacing it as I thought they would they just replaced the boots. Bought me some time I guess. I did try like hell to get it out. I never worked so hard to remove a part from a car. I appreciate your feedback during the process.
why do?did you have to get that part out ??
It was part of the inner CV joint and part of the old worn out axle. It needed to be removed so I could install a new CV axle.
Today I changed my Honda Pilot CV Joint Axle on passenger side and I got a problem of the inner joint stuck like on this video.
I need to figure out to fix this problem.
You can use the axle and 3 vice grips. There's a video on how to do.
If you can find one there is a crows foot attachment for the end of a slide hammer. Your local auto parts store might have one as a loaner tool.
Or grind a knotch in the cup with a dremel cut off wheel if you don't have a welder.
Good point! Probably a lot safer too.
Not familiar with these things but why can't you leave that part in place? Is it the inner race type thing?
Since I don't have a welder...perhaps drill two holes on opposite sides of the housing, then run a bolt through. Bend a piece of all-thread into a hook. Join the hook to the hammer slide with a coupler. Hook over the bolt.
Thanks FiveAble. I tried the cable. No luck. What finally did work was a guy's suggestion to pry at 3 and 9 o'clock at the same time. You might have given me an excuse to learn to weld.
Dealing with this exact issue on my POS dodge.
Best of luck to you. It’s definitely a PITA to deal with.
I'm glad you got it out. To me it seemed like a whole lot of wasted time, as I did go thru that once. The outter part didn't have an edge to which jar a pry bar. But looking at that rusted spline makes you wonder, is there fluid in tranny..lol. That's always lubricated with oil. Anyways, I am not looking thru videos, bcuz once again, I am facing this dilemma. Wondering if anyone has found a more positive way to remove axel with no edge to pop out
I agree, it is a major waste of time when they get stuck. In the end I was glad I got it out without breaking something else like the tranny casing. Not sure why so dry and rusty. Levels checked seemed fine with fluid at normal operating temperature. Have since flushed the transmission and added over 50k miles with no transmission issues. Thanks for commenting! Hope you are able to remove yours without too much trouble. Seems like Volvo/Aisin could have designed it a little better with enough space behind it to allow for one of those crows foot adapters.
@@fiveable Mine is an 05 Chrysler Town and country.. I've done it many times. I'm turning 60 next month, and frankly, I've lost that desire to meddle with these repetitive issues. Lucky I'm using a Milwaukee electric impact gun and ratchet.. I sure ain't using MY arms for loosening anything. Lol. But, this Cvjoint doesn't have an edge lip where to jar a pry bar.. I'm just sitting here pondering on how to.. hehe. Be safe.
I also have cordless Milwaukee impact tools and the 3/8 ratchet. Love the tools Milwaukee makes. They are game changers! You be safe too. Thanks!
@@fiveable I used to work for Milwaukee Electric Tools, when they were in Woodside Queens NY, back in early 90's.. we were a repair station. It was bought out by Ryobi some years back, sad to say.. but yeah, good tools.
Great video, Thank you
Thank you James! Glad you found it helpful.
Here with a Volvo aswell 👋🏽
I hope you get it without too much trouble. I'd be interested in knowing if you have the same rust problem I had. Not sure why it would be that dry in there. Thanks for commenting!
Yep man you save me big big respect to jah know star thumbs up
Thank you! I’m glad the video helped you!
Nice Trick mate 💪💯👍
Thanks!
this guy is sharp a micgiver great good .. my spelling sucks ..
From the looks of the rust, it might have come out easier with some PB oil over night first.
I agree but the cup was right up against the seal. Would have been next to impossible to get penetrating oil deep enough to work. Besides that I had no idea it was dry and didn’t want to dilute or contaminate any gear oil or transmission fluid that might be behind the seal.