Use a Slide Hammer to Remove a Stuck CV Joint
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- I show you how to use a slide hammer with the axle puller adapter to remove a stuck CV Joint on a 1998 Lexus ES 300. Links to Slide Hammer and CV attachment are below.
CV Adapter: amzn.to/2x0lVA3
Slide Hammer: amzn.to/2x0FnN1
Please note the links above may be affiliate links from which I earn a small commission on.
Often this just binds it up worse. Get two flat end screwdrivers and bend the spades about 30 degrees. You can buy these in some hardware shops. I think they are sold under "pry bars" but you only want them a standard screwdriver length.
Place them 180 degrees apart and quickly alternate force on one side then the other. And move your crotch!
Works every time I have had a stucken!
Great tip. I am going to pin this in hopes it helps someone else.
Going to try this
If you even have space for two pry bars this can work
Who’s tried this
the key ingredient in doing this... patience and persistence. On my Volvo S60- I took the whole wheel assembly out; the entire knuckle. I was replacing the ball joint and hub anyway but it gave me a perfect angle to get the 'crows foot' of the slide hammer adapter between the axle and transmission. Because I was pulling straight out without having to angle the slide hammer- 3 'quality' whacks and the joint broke free.. less than 2 minutes. Of course- it took me 3 days of using pry bars to get to this point but, well- live and learn. Thank God for RUclips :) good luck everybody.
Couldn't agree with you more. These can be some of the most frustrating things to remove but then again sometimes they pop right out.
after pounding on it for hours using every trick I could find on the internet I gave up and went to auto one to pick one of these up to give it a try, it actually worked 😭 I’m so relieved bro. I had my wife slowly rotate the other tire cuz I’ve seen a handful of people say to rotate it for whatever reason. Dude thank you
Great tip and glad it worked out for you. These things can be quite powerful and sometimes frustrating.
Thanks for the video. I already own the OEM fork and slide hammer. A little tip is to pull as straight out as possible. Also, it's not always possible to manipulate the fork behind the axle while it's on the slide hammer. To get around this I've placed the fork only behind the axle and then screw the slide hammer threaded end into the fork.
Never give up while trying this. Took me and the shop it was at a few days (obviously not 8 hours a day) to finally unstuck it.
That is very true. You can yank on this thing 100 times and then the 101st it comes loose.
If it does not come out after a few pulls, you need to rotate the shaft little by little, and yank it. The C clip has to face downward open, for the shaft to come out.
When you said, "yank on it." Are you referring to using the slide hammer tool with puller adapter or by just your hands? Also, why does the C clip need to face downward open for the axle to come out? There is no logic behind that, unless the open part of the C clip slides over some type of key way, perhaps.
I have to get one tomorrow for my 2012 Camry and I really hope it works.
@@harryl8234 If you look at the replacement axle (if you have one) you'll understand. The clip is not round so it sticks out a little when the open end of the clip is at 12:00 position. If you rotate the CV joint to where the open end of the clip is facing 6:00 position, the clip falls into a groove and makes it easy to pull the CV out. Trial and error until it suddenly comes out.
Thank you for this it worked , but I wanted to let you know that next time wrap a thin towel around the 5Lb wight so you have more pulling power with out getting your hand hurt ,plus you have more Leverage. Thanks again.
Good idea. I will have to try that next time. Thanks.
Nice catch tray, big diameter, low profile and can catch enough liquid to give you enough time to put a decent oil catch pan down. Great tip. Cheers from Canada.
))
Hello Mr. Clint, I just extracted the passenger CV inner axle w/carrier bearing. And I cannot emphasize enough about using a GOOD rust penetrant prior to attempting extraction. Spray the Carrier bearing down on both sides and let it sit for at least 24 hours. Also, keep the slide hammer puller in-line with the axle , as much as possible. Final result - 2 slaps with the slide hammer and the CV axle/carrier bearing came right out! So pick up a spray can of "KROIL" or "Knock 'er loose", it will save you alot of grief. Mech Tech
You are absolutely correct. The 2nd key in my opinion is patience. I let mine sit overnight after beating on it for hours and the next day it popped right out.
Clint Holland one question we’re u put the puller adapter is that where you spray the penetrating oil
The interesting thing is that on my car (SVT Focus) I've changed the passenger side twice without any problems because it comes right out. It's the driver side that is like this one (the short one), which apparently has that clip. Last time, when I was changing the passenger side, I attempted changing the driver side as well, but when I saw it wasn't coming out, I left it alone (there was nothing wrong with it anyway, and the only reason I replaced the passenger side, was that the boot was torn and was leaking out grease). Now, however, it's making noise and I've rented this same tool with the slide hammer, hoping it will work. Anyway, thanks for the video, because it gives me some confidence that my job will go ok.
If you continue to have trouble try using heat to help it out or, my best tip, rent or buy a bigger slide hammer. It can make all the difference in the world.
Thanks for the tip. Actually, I finished the job in less than an hour without any major delays. All I had to do is get that tool wedged between the transmission housing and the boot/cup, then give it a few gentle taps with a hammer to drive it in there. From that point all I had to do is simply pry on it with my hand. Didn't even get to use the slide hammer, which was pretty good. If anything, installing the new one was slightly more difficult (but wouldn't call it problematic). It took me a few minutes of wiggling and pushing to get it in there, but still. Went on pretty smoothly. Thanks again for the video.
Good video... The only thing I would add is that if anyone is replacing the drive shaft with a new unit, check that they both have the same amount of splines. On my Mazda they changed the transmission during the production run, and for some reason also changed the amount of splines at the transmission end. Luckily I knew about it, however it could easily cause a lot of grief, or should I say more grief when doing this job.
Good to know John. Thanks for sharing.
Cripes, disconnect the hub assembly from the strut, it'll swing out of the way, and you'll be able to pull the slide straight back. Presto-whammo, you're done. Maybe.
You have to turn base of CV a 1/4 turn each time it doesn't pop out with slide hammer..the C Clip is what it is...The C Clip Opening end should be at 6 o clock..turn it every so often moves C Clip to open end position
Great tip and thanks for sharing.
Thank you! Came off with about 20 pulls & they didn't even give me the right size fork but still worked! 08 MKZ
Great to hear. You must be living right. I have beat these things for hundreds of pulls before getting them to turn loose.
A extension is available for some slide hammers that allows a better angle and clearance to slide hammer without smashed fingers and cuss words!
I can definitely see where that might come in handy. Thanks.
How does the penetrating oil help? It seems like the retaining ring is the issue and I don't see how oil will make it down into and back to that ring
I don't actually know if the oil makes it to the ring but certainly from a friction perspective if it did, it should help. What holds the retaining ring in? Friction. What does penetrating oil do? Reduce friction. Again, not sure it makes it that deep in time to help but it certainly wouldn't hurt.
16 inch Pickle fork...does the trick..just rotate base of CV at Transmission end..that helps line up C Clip in the 12 o'clock open position..
Yank on it? Even used a Come Along? Come Again? LMAO. Great Vid, this is def what I need.
Sometimes you do what you go to do.
I just use a sledge hammer and a 3/8 wire from the home depot. It works all the time.
Huh? Maybe a little more details would help.
The axle on my 2003 Hyundai Sonata would not come off for love nor money! I got the same puller, but I would suggest getting the large fork also. The housing would not let the smaller fork go behind the CV joint. The larger fork caught a step on the CV joint, and a few pops of the slide later, the shaft came out, along with about a pint of ATF. I forgot to put a catch pan under it. I tried pry bars. hammers, and it just would not work. BTW, with the seal in place, penetrating oil will not get into the area where the splines and the clip is. Mine was on the side that was soaked in ATF, and it was still stuck. Of course, I am certain that this car is possessed by an evil spirit.
I agree with you on the evil spirits. All CV joints are possessed at a minimum. They will make you question yourself many times and then they just give up for no reason. Thanks for the tip on the bigger fork. I will pin this comment to help others.
Im in the same situation today 2003 sante fe smh day 3
Hi Clint, I am using the hammer and fork rented from O'Reilly's and the fork seems too small for the shaft. I can only get two or three pulls before the fork comes off. My car is 1999 Toyota Solara which I believe it is the same as your Lexus. Do you know of a fork size that would fit? Thanks.
This tool worked excellent on a 2005 Vibe.
Great to hear. They are quite useful in removing stuck things.
Hope this works for me. Gonna spray it tonight. Thanks for posting this, man.
Hopefully it did. Were you able to get it off?
@@ClintHolland nope. I'm still fighting with it. I'm losing hope here.
@@ClintHolland got it!. I bought a small, sturdy crowbar, pressed it against the cv joint, and beat it with a small sledge hammer. Whew!!
@@trachito Glad that worked out for you. They can be a nightmare to get off. My last resort is using heat but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.
Best video I’ve come accross
Appreciate the kind words and thank you for watching.
Good stuff. Thank you for sharing your experience and insight via this video.
Appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment. Have a great weekend.
Really nice video. Very encouraging! Thank you
Yeah hi, thanks for the informative video. I just received my CV axle tool from Lone Star and hopefully will be using it tomorrow. I tried several things already and I never had a struck CV axle before. This passenger one was installed in 2013, but it's not the original one. Again thank you sir.
You are quite welcome. Be sure to spray it with some type of penetrant to help.
I used 4 feet chain clamp both ends to the axle and tie a rope to the chain so you can hold it and use something heavy like a hammer or breaker bar to yanked it out and it came out in 2 minutes.
Lucky you. These things can be a nightmare at times.
Im keep on tugging been a day.
worked on 4th hit. was a little hard to get it in there. i have an 08 accord and on passenger side has a female spindle coupling but none the less it worked
Same car, hoping this does the trick
Hi, this is Rickey again. That slide hammer tool that I purchased from Lone Star tool didn't work for me. I tried and tried again for many days and I could not triedget the slide tool to stay straight, in the up position. It was always was applied in an angle position, so after a few hits it would slide off the inner axle. I even tried by using the slide hammer with two vise grips and no such luck. I continue to spray it with lubricate oil and trying all these other ways. Over and over I tried other ways as well, but nothing prevail!
So I jack up the other side (left) of car and made sure that this 1997 Toyota Corolla was securely grounded with more jack stands and tires for safety reasons. Then I got under the car with lubricate oil, a 4lb hammer and flat chisel trying to get it off that way. It was looking more promising, so I took off the air filter attachments a loose again and got a long crow bar along with my 4lb hammer and started hitting it from the top. Please note, previously the 2lb hammer from the top did not work either. It finally came off. Thank goodness!
I noticed that when the CV inner shaft came out of the transmission it was well lube, but strangely I did not see the steel ring on the end.
Now this particular CV axle was purchased at O'Reillys automotive store back in 2014. No way I am taken another chance of replacing it at O'Reillys again, so I purchased another one at Olathe Toyota, which I've bought many different genuine Toyota parts before. I realized that many Toyota parts have to be replace with genuine Toyota parts. I hope this helps someone.
my old cv shaft was toast and separated because the boot failed. so using a cobalt drill bit i drilled a hole in the side of the remaining shaft housing. my slide hammer kit came with a hook attachment that i inserted in the newly drilled hole and two slides of the 5 lb weight was all it took to remove remaining cv shaft.
I have been satisfied with Cardone cv shafts, and they are usually less expensive than original manufacturer parts. I've been buying them at Rockauto.com.
@@garylangley4502 still good 4 yrs later?
@@BillSW My friend has one of the cars I installed Cardone CV shafts and they are still working fine. The other cars that I have used them in over the years have been sold so I don't know how the CV joints have held up. Each one of those cars were driven a long time before they were sold, and in all cases, the CV joints were still in good condition.
Yeah, that angle was killing you. You have to drop that hub off to center that ring so it can compress into its slot. At that angle, you were still pulling against it.
There is a tool called the " Texas Twister " air hammer tool, using this tool and an air hammer will loosen these cv axles.
Good to know Tony. Thanks.
Oh Lone Star Tools has it for about $68 and its comes on two boxes.
thanks for the info
You are welcome. Glad I could help.
this is what I use, works great.
I’m working on my 01 Camry it’s been a week messing with this cv axle slowly losing hope
Did you eventually get it off?
@@ClintHollandyes and honestly way faster with 2 people I finally called my uncle he used a long prybar from the top and I was under the car with a shorter prybar literally popped it off within 30 seconds
@@montyp8124 Glad you got it off. Haven't had to use the 2 person approach but good to know for the future.
Was it easy to put axle ba k in?
Much easier. Removing it is always the hard part.
I have never in my life had a axle stick like that. Small pry bar at the end and they always pop out.
Consider yourself lucky. This is a 20 year old vehicle that lived most of its life at the coast so it was pretty bad. I have even had to use a heating torch to get them free.
you are very lucky.
Im going to do this with my Toyota sienna but im going to take a torch to the bracket where the bearing is.
It is pretty common to have to use heat to get these out, especially if the car is especially old or has been used in areas where corrosion is more likely. Good luck.
@@ClintHolland i ended up cutting the axle on both sides of the bracket then i took the braket up to advance auto parts. Which used to be a western auto so they had their old press. And they pressed out the bearing.
But i have a bigger problem. I cant get the c clamp back in. Been driving like that for a week. Lol
@@thecynic807 Wow. I have done my share of CV joints in my life but never had one that hard to get out.
I have a 98 lexus same car as u i have the adapter and the slide hammer and i just cant for the life of me get it back to where it needs to go the retaining clip is off but i feel its gettin in the way when i try to put the adapter on which is makin things very frustrating is there any tips on how to maybe do this i spent all day tryin this have had no luck goin back at it tomorrow wish me luck
So you have the old one out but are having trouble getting the new one back in?
No i havent been able to get the old one out im havin trouble gettin the cv adapter back in the spot in order to get a good pull with the slide hammer if this is makin any sense innur video u made it loom very simple when puttin the slide hammer on the cv joint
@@bretthyler7680 I am not sure why it wouldn't be hooking on in the same position. Does it look damaged or different from the one I used?
No its the exact same im just havin trouble gettin the adapter on the back of the axle to get a good pull against it i havent got a chance to get back to it but im gonna give it a go again on friday so hopefully ill have some good fortune my way lol
@@bretthyler7680 I have also had to use heat before to remove them but that doesn't help if the slide hammer fork won't stay on.
Thanks,appreciated
Most of us are here on these dang fords😅🤣😊
I got one same side that wont go in because of that stupid C clip which in mine since they are Chinese craps that c clip came deformed, I had to order C clips from Advance Auto Parts, then tomorrow will try this renting same tools from Auto Zone, now mine is not all the way in at all as it has a gap of 3 millimeters before touching the seal, the passenger side I could installed just fine; driver side is the one raining on the party so will see tomorrow and will see if I can install it fine after replacing the stupid C clip; I knew it was going to be a problem but tried anyways just in case; hit is with mini sledges 2,3and 4 pounds putting a piece of 2x4 no luck, had 2 friends helping to hold the shaft and the boot not to move, nothing; next time i have to replace these I will look for OEMs!
Good luck. How did things work out?
@@ClintHolland don't know until I drive the car. I installed another seal and new C clip, factory, still does not go in all the way but it does not get out if trying to pull it by hand either so it is hard to tell; they told me to drive it around the block; it it leaks, re do it if it does not it should be ok. It really sucks.
Retaining clip?
There is an internal clip that holds the CV joint in. That is generally what gets stuck and why you need something like a slide hammer that produces a sharp blow.
Will this work on 1995 Toyota Camry driverside CV axle
A slide hammer is pretty much the go to tool to help in the removal of any stuck CV Joint. While I don't know the particulars of the 95 Camry, I almost bet it would work just as well.
@@ClintHolland yeah seems like it would work for what I need but the one I rented today the end of the threads are stripped😠 lol so I gotta return it and rent another
@@ClintHolland btw I just subscribed👍
@@jonathanp.1712 That stinks. Make sure you get the fork attachment as well.
suppose you could use a come along if needed with this tool
Funny you mention that. I actually tried one but without the slide hammer and it didn't work. If you used both it probably would. To get that ring to release you really need a quick snapping motion and not the constant tension.
Do you got that by rent from autozone or online?
I bought it from Autozone for around $50 but they will rent them to you as well.
Those slide hammer kits are worthless when the axle is frozen / stuck.
Time to break out the heat.
my 08 Highlander passenger side is stuck and I couldn't pry it out. I am thinking of renting this tool.
They are super handy and not very expensive. Might be worth purchasing as they are usually less than $50.
Same thing happened to me today and I’m renting the hammer
Get the biggest one they have. CV joints can make you question your life.
@@ClintHolland looking through the comments of your video because I currently have a stuck cv joint passenger side on a new car as well. Honda Civic 2018 smh!
@@ricardoherrera2313 Hopefully you were able to finally get it out without resorting to a torch.
Do you spray the penetrating oil on both the transmission end and where the bearing (near middle of axle)? I'm concerned if the penetrating oil will damage the seal on the transmission side?
I did not spray it on the transmission side but I don't think it would hurt it.
you mentioned you removed a retaining clip...Which clip are you talking about.
Steve Patco ruclips.net/video/39rDpC3qOsA/видео.html
Yea I found that already. I have a different setup. Its a short axle with no intermediate bearings or anything. I am going to wack it good today with a cold chisel. I am nervous because even though the axle is hard steel, the tranny housing that is right along side of it is only cast aluminum I believe. Would suck if I that cracked.
You have probably found the answer by now, but if not, the circlip or retaining clip is just a thin metal ring with a small gap in it. On the CV drive shaft for my Mazda, it sits in a groove about 5mm from the end of the splines that slide into the gearbox / transmission, and it locks the shaft into the correct position. For something so small and ordinary, they can cause a lot of drama. I replaced the drive shaft and getting it out was difficult enough, and we then could not get the new one to slide into the gearbox, and so we swapped the circlip from the old shaft, and on it went.
Thanks alot
You are welcome. Hope it helped.
This is for removing a CV axle from the transmission, and not a CV joint from the axle. I was looking for ways to solve the latter. Damn joint wont come off after half an hour of hammering.
These things can make you question your religion. It took me 2 days to get my last one off.
@@ClintHolland oh, yeah... i ended up buying a friggin angle grinder and cutting the cage center gear out. By divine interventio i didnt screw up the splines so i could replace the bad joint and reinstall the axle.
@@ComandanteJmy axle nut is stuck thinking imma have to get a angle grinder then my cv axle still stuck in trans been a week 😭😭😭
Your doing It wrong. Disconnect the strut from the hub and move it so you can pull straight out and DISCO. I do things like this all the time trying to save time but it doesn't and also causes an unneeded amount of cursing.
Profanity? On a front end job? Nah...never used. (LOL)
But I do agree about getting that friggen hub outta the way.
I'm on day 2 of using this tool and it's not working
Did you ever get it removed?
@@ClintHolland no I'm still working on it over a week
@@ElissaRomero-fy5rr Might be time to break out the heat.
@ClintHolland heat didn't work I'm all out of ideas to try
@@ElissaRomero-fy5rr What year, make and model are you working on ?
And for the other 10% of cases?
So great question. That's when you have to take a torch to it and heat it up. Also, don't give up. I have had some that I yanked on for literally an hour and didn't budge and then I came back the next day and it popped right out. Also look at getting a heavier slide hammer. That can make all the difference in the world.
This didn't work for me.
How did you end up getting it off?
Did you buy or rent the slide hammer?
I bought it from Autozone. It was like $45. I think.
Next time take the rotor off...
It solves all your problems...
Definitely would have helped with the angle but wasn't needed this time.
it's a waste money to buy such a tool, all you need is a flat screwdriver tq
I sure hope this is sarcasm.