People should know that this removal doesn't require the removal of the steering wheel or the turn signals or wiper control. After removing the trim and the bottom most control box under neath the cylinder. Just drill out the retaining bolts., us the extractor.. disconnect the wire that connects to the front of the key switch... the cylinder will not drop right out. but wiggle it around a bit and... it will come out.. 2008 Rabbit and similar.
Thank you for making the video! Really helped me change my 2011 VW GTI lock cylinder. Only thing I did different was to use a punch with a hammer on the security bolts to scar their head. I watched that on another video. Then I tapped that mark from a side angle which loosened the bolts. I could then just drag the punch against the mark circularly to unscrew them. I was able to reuse the bolts this way. The wire harness on the new VW OEM cylinder had one different connector on its wire harness that didn’t fit the steering connectors so I reused the old wires. I also reused my lock, removing it with a paper clip from the old cylinder.
I'm currently dealing with this issue of trying to get into the tamper proof bolts without having to take off the steering wheel. The bolts head are so small though that I'm having trouble punching a hole in it. Do you have an advice? Thanks!
11:38. I dropped the steering wheel column by removing 4 bolts to get more room for drilling , after drilling them out I used a bolt extractor , thank you for your video I follow all your directions Thank you again it is so helpful
I used a 1/4 chisel to tap the bolts out. As soon as the torque was broke, it was easy turning them the rest of the way out. This video has been so helpful; thank you. Edit: My 2008 VW Jetta started! God bless you for posting this video.
*****GOOD VIDEO EXCEPT WAY TOO MUCH REMOVAL***** There is NO need to remove anything on the steering wheel - AT ALL. Disconnect battery and (1)Remove the top and bottom outside cover (3 T20 screws), then (2) DRILL out (calm down) the 2 bolts on top of the ignition lock cylinder then use an extractor kit to remove the drilled bolts out (or you can rotate them out with a flat head screwdriver and hammer - good luck on that one). (3a) Then remove the steering wheel angle sensor (bottom flat plastic tray piece under steering wheel): there is a TINY T8 screw in the front, then you need a thin pick/strong thin wire for it's front clip (unseen clip but you can wiggle around a curve near the right side of the ignition switch to depress it's hold), the rear clip is easy to get to - use your finger near the rear of it simply press it in. (3b) Disconnect it's YELLOW clip on the right rear side of angle sensor and let it hang there no need to disconnect completely. ONE MORE STEP TO FINISH. (4) stick your fingers, from the bottom pointing upwards, to release the (2) tabs holding the ignition lock housing in place. I pops right out - That''s it. Can be done in about 45-60 minutes with right tools. May take a couple of hours if your slow and cautious. But at least it's a free fix. Be Breezy -
Just did this procedure on a 2012 jetta. Used a center punch on the edge of the security bolts to turn them counter clock wise. Once you've got them to turn just a smidgen, they will trun out with your finger spinning them or something pointy sharp to spin them. But you have to be able to get center punch on the edge at an angle to get bolts to turn a smidgen.
Disassembly always starts with removing the airbag and steering wheel. Makes it easier to undo everything. Other than that, your video is very well explained. 👍
*****GOOD VIDEO EXCEPT WAY TOO MUCH REMOVAL***** There is NO need to remove anything on the steering wheel - AT ALL. Disconnect battery and (1)Remove the top and bottom outside cover (3 T20 screws), then (2) DRILL out (calm down) the 2 bolts on top of the ignition lock cylinder then use an extractor kit to remove the drilled bolts out (or you can rotate them out with a flat head screwdriver and hammer - good luck on that one). (3a) Then remove the steering wheel angle sensor (bottom flat plastic tray piece under steering wheel): there is a TINY T8 screw in the front, then you need a thin pick/strong thin wire for it's front clip (unseen clip but you can wiggle around a curve near the right side of the ignition switch to depress it's hold), the rear clip is easy to get to - use your finger near the rear of it simply press it in. (3b) Disconnect it's YELLOW clip on the right rear side of angle sensor and let it hang there no need to disconnect completely. ONE MORE STEP TO FINISH. (4) stick your fingers, from the bottom pointing upwards, to release the (2) tabs holding the ignition lock housing in place. I pops right out - That''s it. Can be done in about 45-60 minutes with right tools. May take a couple of hours if your slow and cautious. But at least it's a free fix. Be Breezy -
Hi, actually at 16:04 you just skipped the most important part for me, how to remove the ignition barrel without any demage if the key does not turn, as you mentioned it should turn to full ignition position to be able to remove the barrel (using a thin strong wire or paperclip, etc.), so could you please share how could you remove it if the key does not turn?
*****GOOD VIDEO EXCEPT WAY TOO MUCH REMOVAL***** There is NO need to remove anything on the steering wheel - AT ALL. Disconnect battery and (1)Remove the top and bottom outside cover (3 T20 screws), then (2) DRILL out (calm down) the 2 bolts on top of the ignition lock cylinder then use an extractor kit to remove the drilled bolts out (or you can rotate them out with a flat head screwdriver and hammer - good luck on that one). (3a) Then remove the steering wheel angle sensor (bottom flat plastic tray piece under steering wheel): there is a TINY T8 screw in the front, then you need a thin pick/strong thin wire for it's front clip (unseen clip but you can wiggle around a curve near the right side of the ignition switch to depress it's hold), the rear clip is easy to get to - use your finger near the rear of it simply press it in. (3b) Disconnect it's YELLOW clip on the right rear side of angle sensor and let it hang there no need to disconnect completely. ONE MORE STEP TO FINISH. (4) stick your fingers, from the bottom pointing upwards, to release the (2) tabs holding the ignition lock housing in place. I pops right out - That''s it. Can be done in about 45-60 minutes with right tools. May take a couple of hours if your slow and cautious. But at least it's a free fix. Be Breezy -
Great job man, thank you so much for taking the time and walking through every step of this. What would you say this replacement costs compared to having it done at the dealer?
@ShinyFastLoud So the clear ring you free spun is the clock spring, those can’t be free spun, they control a lot of stuff … most notably the driver airbag, they can only be “free” spun about 1/4 of a turn before they go bad. There should be some type of warning on it, that shows a picture of a vehicle with steer ahead wheels and another picture of a vehicle with wheels not in the steer ahead position. I’m surprised you have not had any airbag or steering assist codes …
Great info but I think you might be referring to the more complex clock spring. This is the basic one since the only connections to the wheel are the airbag and horn. There are no other controls on this wheel. I only rotated it about 1 turn and the ribbon cable within the clock spring can handle that.
Even then the clock spring turns with the wheel tho… if they can only do a 1/4 turn before going bad then logically you’d only be able to turn your wheel a 1/4 turn…
Great video One ? Do you have to swap the ignition switch for the old 1 (is it coded) if putting original tumbler back on Basically I brought a new lock with electrical switch But wanted to use old key
Question - How did you install the old key cylinder into the new ignition housing? Around 16:03 you just pull out the assembled parts, but I am having difficulty putting my old key cylinder into the new housing I bought. I read elsewhere that you shouldn't turn the insides of the new housing with a screwdriver, before installing the key cylinder, but I unfortunately already did that. Any tips on getting it to go together now?
*****GOOD VIDEO EXCEPT WAY TOO MUCH REMOVAL***** There is NO need to remove anything on the steering wheel - AT ALL. Disconnect battery and (1)Remove the top and bottom outside cover (3 T20 screws), then (2) DRILL out (calm down) the 2 bolts on top of the ignition lock cylinder then use an extractor kit to remove the drilled bolts out (or you can rotate them out with a flat head screwdriver and hammer - good luck on that one). (3a) Then remove the steering wheel angle sensor (bottom flat plastic tray piece under steering wheel): there is a TINY T8 screw in the front, then you need a thin pick/strong thin wire for it's front clip (unseen clip but you can wiggle around a curve near the right side of the ignition switch to depress it's hold), the rear clip is easy to get to - use your finger near the rear of it simply press it in. (3b) Disconnect it's YELLOW clip on the right rear side of angle sensor and let it hang there no need to disconnect completely. ONE MORE STEP TO FINISH. (4) stick your fingers, from the bottom pointing upwards, to release the (2) tabs holding the ignition lock housing in place. I pops right out - That''s it. Can be done in about 45-60 minutes with right tools. May take a couple of hours if your slow and cautious. But at least it's a free fix. Be Breezy -
Thanks for this. This tutorial is what I needed for my 09 (just finished putting everything back together). Turned out (after drilling into the middle part of the ignition) it had some obstruction that stopped my key from getting to the ON position. After it being all done, I’m curious: do you know if is it necessary to remove the steering wheel because of the center bolt or are the three t25s , t9 and the security bolts good enough?
@@ShinyFastLoud I'm dealing with this exact issue for my 09 jetta, I'm having a lot of difficulty trying to drill into those freaking tamper proof bolts, once I get to it, could you explain or do a video on how to change inside the cylinder, like the middle part inside without messing it up? That is the part I am most worried about changing. Thanks for this video!
Guessing that by now, most of you, including the kind and methodical person who made the video, have come to insight regarding the security bolts. You really dont have to drill them out. There are a bunch of vids on this very same disassembly procedure, from jolly brits to silent polish blokes, and all of them feature reversing the bolts out by tapping with a chisel or a punch. Tap-tap-tap dun. Replace with an M8, 20-25mm long. You can drill a smaller hole and tap in a torx driver too, if you fancy that. I honestly feel sorry for you who go the hard way about it, as this man states, the drilling of the bolts was the hardest part of it all.
And, yeah, there might be some people who have for some reason ended up with a assembly where the security bolts are much more jammy-clammy. Really, no disrespect or smart-arsery, I could have resorted to the same drilling, had I not caught the other vids first.. just hope people try tapping before drilling and save themselves trouble.
*****GOOD VIDEO EXCEPT WAY TOO MUCH REMOVAL***** There is NO need to remove anything on the steering wheel - AT ALL. Disconnect battery and (1)Remove the top and bottom outside cover (3 T20 screws), then (2) DRILL out (calm down) the 2 bolts on top of the ignition lock cylinder then use an extractor kit to remove the drilled bolts out (or you can rotate them out with a flat head screwdriver and hammer - good luck on that one). (3a) Then remove the steering wheel angle sensor (bottom flat plastic tray piece under steering wheel): there is a TINY T8 screw in the front, then you need a thin pick/strong thin wire for it's front clip (unseen clip but you can wiggle around a curve near the right side of the ignition switch to depress it's hold), the rear clip is easy to get to - use your finger near the rear of it simply press it in. (3b) Disconnect it's YELLOW clip on the right rear side of angle sensor and let it hang there no need to disconnect completely. ONE MORE STEP TO FINISH. (4) stick your fingers, from the bottom pointing upwards, to release the (2) tabs holding the ignition lock housing in place. I pops right out - That''s it. Can be done in about 45-60 minutes with right tools. May take a couple of hours if your slow and cautious. But at least it's a free fix. Be Breezy -
I have a similar issue with the door locks of Volkswagen Polo when I apply with the key fully inserted it pushes the pin barrel into the gullies and you can switch the key around for some reason even if it's not the correct key in the lock the locks pins in line with the gully what should I say gullies and is free to spin around without opening the lock you can spin the key around I bought this for this because you can use the left-hand side lock for the right hand side but it's just upside down but the key what is left hand right side
wow this was super helpful! I think I'm going to try this, but my steering wheel is locked. any tips on how to remove the steering wheel if the wheel is locked?
Did you buy the whole kit? Like the actual cylinder and black part that the key goes into? If so, did you have to swap keys? My steering wheel sometimes wont lock, sometimes it won't let me actually turn the key over to start, sometimes it won't let me shut the car off, and sometimes the key gets stuck. I'm assuming that I have to buy the whole kit? Great video tho! very helpful.
I bought the complete assembly with all three parts. The black part around the key, the center lock section and the black electrical switch. But I ended up swapping back to an oem cut key and lock cylinder so I wouldn't have to re-key the rest of the car.
*****GOOD VIDEO EXCEPT WAY TOO MUCH REMOVAL***** There is NO need to remove anything on the steering wheel - AT ALL. Disconnect battery and (1)Remove the top and bottom outside cover (3 T20 screws), then (2) DRILL out (calm down) the 2 bolts on top of the ignition lock cylinder then use an extractor kit to remove the drilled bolts out (or you can rotate them out with a flat head screwdriver and hammer - good luck on that one). (3a) Then remove the steering wheel angle sensor (bottom flat plastic tray piece under steering wheel): there is a TINY T8 screw in the front, then you need a thin pick/strong thin wire for it's front clip (unseen clip but you can wiggle around a curve near the right side of the ignition switch to depress it's hold), the rear clip is easy to get to - use your finger near the rear of it simply press it in. (3b) Disconnect it's YELLOW clip on the right rear side of angle sensor and let it hang there no need to disconnect completely. ONE MORE STEP TO FINISH. (4) stick your fingers, from the bottom pointing upwards, to release the (2) tabs holding the ignition lock housing in place. I pops right out - That''s it. Can be done in about 45-60 minutes with right tools. May take a couple of hours if your slow and cautious. But at least it's a free fix. Be Breezy -
Hey amazing video, just a question where does the switch cable gets connected i know one side is connected to the barrel switch where does the other side goes
If the problem is the section which the key goes into can’t you just remove that and replace without having to take everything apart? Or Is it generally the metal cylinder that is at fault? Mine is jamming /getting stuck mainly when I try to turn off ignition I have to wiggle the key in lots of ways and eventually it will turn off
Replaced the ignition. Now the immobilizer is kicking on saying the key is not found even though they are in the car? Both the new and the old key are in the car. Still getting the error. Did i miss something?
My question is can't i just stick the chip onto the ring or does the code change, i have changed lock but have to hold the old key right next to the coil
If I connect the old ignition switch and the old part were the key goes into and connect both those old parts to the robust cylinder I wouldn’t need to reprogram right?
I believe that is correct. you can even swap the RFID chips in the key fobs to match as well. I ended up ordering new fobs which needed to be reprogrammed.
My 2007 jetta starts perfectly sometimes!!! And other times I put the key in the ignition and turn the key and there is no crank/no start!!!! Only the dashboard and headlights come on!!! Please help me
Do you have to reprogram anything if your are only changing the lock housing with the ignition switch? I plan to reuse the same key and cylinder/ring. I'm hopeful this work on a Tiguan. Thanks for the video, very helpful!
@@ShinyFastLoud I can confirm you don't have to reprogram. I swapped the switch and the cylinder yesterday. The car is running smoothly now. A 90 degree drill adapter is very helpful, all you need to remove (drill) is those 2 security bolts and disconnect 4 connectors which simplifies the process. Thanks again!
You probably moved the 'clock assembly 180° off. Wasn't explained in video that the 'shiny ring cannot be rotated while off the steering column. Replacing it with a new one is not too expensive.
if you replace the cylinder you would have to rekey to doors, trunk, etc to match to one key. Or you could order the OEM cylinder from the dealer and they will cut it to match the existing key. Its a little pricey but it is probably the easiest way to know you will have a matching key and it will be coded properly.
Great video , we have followed all this but we can’t get the car to start properly, it starts then cuts out , then a steering warning light comes on but everything is definitely back correctly.
The immobilizer is stopping it. Make sure the RFID chips in the key and the ring match. If they do then you may unfortunately need the dealer to reprogram it.
10:20 Hey, so I have a 2009 VW Rabbit and I am not able to reach those screws at all in the car. They are farther back than in the video and I can barley even see the screws beacause of how crammed they are in there. Is there any way to move the steering column forward or down more?
If anyone sees this, anyone know where to order a new cylinder? Like a link? I just can’t seem to find anything reliable, I keep finding new cylinders that don’t include the locking mechanism where you actually insert the key (the part he talked about taking off with a paperclip)
for 2008 gti golf it is 1K0 905 851 B. My VW store, and many more, are back ordered until the end of Oct 2023. You can get the same one from NAPA for about 10-20% less. Guaranteed to fit. *****GOOD VIDEO EXCEPT WAY TOO MUCH REMOVAL***** There is NO need to remove anything on the steering wheel - AT ALL. Disconnect battery and (1)Remove the top and bottom outside cover (3 T20 screws), then (2) DRILL out (calm down) the 2 bolts on top of the ignition lock cylinder then use an extractor kit to remove the drilled bolts out (or you can rotate them out with a flat head screwdriver and hammer - good luck on that one). (3a) Then remove the steering wheel angle sensor (bottom flat plastic tray piece under steering wheel): there is a TINY T8 screw in the front, then you need a thin pick/strong thin wire for it's front clip (unseen clip but you can wiggle around a curve near the right side of the ignition switch to depress it's hold), the rear clip is easy to get to - use your finger near the rear of it simply press it in. (3b) Disconnect it's YELLOW clip on the right rear side of angle sensor and let it hang there no need to disconnect completely. ONE MORE STEP TO FINISH. (4) stick your fingers, from the bottom pointing upwards, to release the (2) tabs holding the ignition lock housing in place. I pops right out - That''s it. Can be done in about 45-60 minutes with right tools. May take a couple of hours if your slow and cautious. But at least it's a free fix. Be Breezy -
I don't understand your method... I did the same job by just removing the 3 cover screws 2 behind the steering wheel and 1 below, without removing the steering wheel... Then the 2 screws with broken heads without drill just a small punch and a hammer and then the 2 electrical plugs of the neiman and the dismantling work is finished in 15 minutes while drinking a coffee!!!
Una muy buena explicación pero batalle con los subtítulos traducen muchas tonterías que confunden Tiene que hacer algo RUclips con los subtítulos son BASURA saludos 🇲🇽
*****GOOD VIDEO EXCEPT WAY TOO MUCH REMOVAL***** There is NO need to remove anything on the steering wheel - AT ALL. (1)Remove the top and bottom outside cover (3 T20 screws), then (2) DRILL out (calm down) the 2 bolts on top of the ignition lock cylinder then use an extractor kit to remove the drilled bolts out (or you can rotate them out with a flat head screwdriver and hammer - good luck on that one). (3a) Then remove the steering wheel angle sensor (bottom flat plastic tray piece under steering wheel): there is a TINY T8 screw in the front, then you need a thin pick/strong thin wire for it's front clip (unseen clip but you can wiggle around a curve near the right side of the ignition switch to depress it's hold), the rear clip is easy to get to - use your finger near the rear of it simply press it in. (3b) Disconnect it's YELLOW clip on the right rear side of angle sensor and let it hang there no need to disconnect completely. ONE MORE STEP TO FINISH. (4) stick your fingers, from the bottom pointing upwards, to release the (2) tabs holding the ignition lock housing in place. I pops right out - That''s it. Can be done in about 45-60 minutes with right tools. May take a couple of hours if your slow and cautious. But at least it's a free fix. Be Breezy -
You did not end this video well, why... yr Job isn't finished ? You don't show to start the engine and drive, with the replacement key. My advice, better make a new video completely. Other point, showe very good how to disconnect the cruise control unit & other poin, don't put the steering wheel back before you put the plastic covering so that you don't have to turn the wheel again and again every time. For the rest, well don you tried your best making this video, congratulations. GREETINGS from Johan D. BELGIUM
People should know that this removal doesn't require the removal of the steering wheel or the turn signals or wiper control. After removing the trim and the bottom most control box under neath the cylinder. Just drill out the retaining bolts., us the extractor.. disconnect the wire that connects to the front of the key switch... the cylinder will not drop right out. but wiggle it around a bit and... it will come out.. 2008 Rabbit and similar.
How
You can't get to the T9 torx holding that little control box on without taking the steering wheel off...
What drill size for security bolts
I saw the thumbnail and was like wtf 😂
@@chrismonroe8417it's a T8 and yes you can get to it I did this job without taking of the steering wheel
Thank you for making the video! Really helped me change my 2011 VW GTI lock cylinder. Only thing I did different was to use a punch with a hammer on the security bolts to scar their head. I watched that on another video. Then I tapped that mark from a side angle which loosened the bolts. I could then just drag the punch against the mark circularly to unscrew them. I was able to reuse the bolts this way. The wire harness on the new VW OEM cylinder had one different connector on its wire harness that didn’t fit the steering connectors so I reused the old wires. I also reused my lock, removing it with a paper clip from the old cylinder.
I'm currently dealing with this issue of trying to get into the tamper proof bolts without having to take off the steering wheel. The bolts head are so small though that I'm having trouble punching a hole in it. Do you have an advice? Thanks!
11:38. I dropped the steering wheel column by removing 4 bolts to get more room for drilling , after drilling them out I used a bolt extractor , thank you for your video I follow all your directions Thank you again it is so helpful
did you find out the problem? my 07 rabbit won’t turn over at all
great tip
I used a 1/4 chisel to tap the bolts out. As soon as the torque was broke, it was easy turning them the rest of the way out. This video has been so helpful; thank you.
Edit: My 2008 VW Jetta started! God bless you for posting this video.
One of the very best videos about swapping the Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder; simple, clear, concise. 10X!
Did well man explained and educated your procedures and didn’t skip vital information..
*****GOOD VIDEO EXCEPT WAY TOO MUCH REMOVAL*****
There is NO need to remove anything on the steering wheel - AT ALL. Disconnect battery and (1)Remove the top and bottom outside cover (3 T20 screws), then (2) DRILL out (calm down) the 2 bolts on top of the ignition lock cylinder then use an extractor kit to remove the drilled bolts out (or you can rotate them out with a flat head screwdriver and hammer - good luck on that one). (3a) Then remove the steering wheel angle sensor (bottom flat plastic tray piece under steering wheel): there is a TINY T8 screw in the front, then you need a thin pick/strong thin wire for it's front clip (unseen clip but you can wiggle around a curve near the right side of the ignition switch to depress it's hold), the rear clip is easy to get to - use your finger near the rear of it simply press it in. (3b) Disconnect it's YELLOW clip on the right rear side of angle sensor and let it hang there no need to disconnect completely. ONE MORE STEP TO FINISH. (4) stick your fingers, from the bottom pointing upwards, to release the (2) tabs holding the ignition lock housing in place. I pops right out - That''s it. Can be done in about 45-60 minutes with right tools. May take a couple of hours if your slow and cautious. But at least it's a free fix. Be Breezy -
Just did this procedure on a 2012 jetta. Used a center punch on the edge of the security bolts to turn them counter clock wise. Once you've got them to turn just a smidgen, they will trun out with your finger spinning them or something pointy sharp to spin them. But you have to be able to get center punch on the edge at an angle to get bolts to turn a smidgen.
Great info
This video is incredible. How well put together and easy to follow. Good job man
I appreciate that!
Thanks for this video buddy, having the same issue and you broke it down step by step very well. 👍
I have done this for my own car and two other cars in the family now thanks to this video! still coming in handy,thamk you
Disassembly always starts with removing the airbag and steering wheel. Makes it easier to undo everything. Other than that, your video is very well explained. 👍
Thanks for all your time to share the info and procedure. Great info and help there
Glad to help
*****GOOD VIDEO EXCEPT WAY TOO MUCH REMOVAL*****
There is NO need to remove anything on the steering wheel - AT ALL. Disconnect battery and (1)Remove the top and bottom outside cover (3 T20 screws), then (2) DRILL out (calm down) the 2 bolts on top of the ignition lock cylinder then use an extractor kit to remove the drilled bolts out (or you can rotate them out with a flat head screwdriver and hammer - good luck on that one). (3a) Then remove the steering wheel angle sensor (bottom flat plastic tray piece under steering wheel): there is a TINY T8 screw in the front, then you need a thin pick/strong thin wire for it's front clip (unseen clip but you can wiggle around a curve near the right side of the ignition switch to depress it's hold), the rear clip is easy to get to - use your finger near the rear of it simply press it in. (3b) Disconnect it's YELLOW clip on the right rear side of angle sensor and let it hang there no need to disconnect completely. ONE MORE STEP TO FINISH. (4) stick your fingers, from the bottom pointing upwards, to release the (2) tabs holding the ignition lock housing in place. I pops right out - That''s it. Can be done in about 45-60 minutes with right tools. May take a couple of hours if your slow and cautious. But at least it's a free fix. Be Breezy -
Hi, actually at 16:04 you just skipped the most important part for me, how to remove the ignition barrel without any demage if the key does not turn, as you mentioned it should turn to full ignition position to be able to remove the barrel (using a thin strong wire or paperclip, etc.), so could you please share how could you remove it if the key does not turn?
*****GOOD VIDEO EXCEPT WAY TOO MUCH REMOVAL*****
There is NO need to remove anything on the steering wheel - AT ALL. Disconnect battery and (1)Remove the top and bottom outside cover (3 T20 screws), then (2) DRILL out (calm down) the 2 bolts on top of the ignition lock cylinder then use an extractor kit to remove the drilled bolts out (or you can rotate them out with a flat head screwdriver and hammer - good luck on that one). (3a) Then remove the steering wheel angle sensor (bottom flat plastic tray piece under steering wheel): there is a TINY T8 screw in the front, then you need a thin pick/strong thin wire for it's front clip (unseen clip but you can wiggle around a curve near the right side of the ignition switch to depress it's hold), the rear clip is easy to get to - use your finger near the rear of it simply press it in. (3b) Disconnect it's YELLOW clip on the right rear side of angle sensor and let it hang there no need to disconnect completely. ONE MORE STEP TO FINISH. (4) stick your fingers, from the bottom pointing upwards, to release the (2) tabs holding the ignition lock housing in place. I pops right out - That''s it. Can be done in about 45-60 minutes with right tools. May take a couple of hours if your slow and cautious. But at least it's a free fix. Be Breezy -
Great job man, thank you so much for taking the time and walking through every step of this. What would you say this replacement costs compared to having it done at the dealer?
Thank you for making this video..
No problem 😊
@ShinyFastLoud So the clear ring you free spun is the clock spring, those can’t be free spun, they control a lot of stuff … most notably the driver airbag, they can only be “free” spun about 1/4 of a turn before they go bad. There should be some type of warning on it, that shows a picture of a vehicle with steer ahead wheels and another picture of a vehicle with wheels not in the steer ahead position. I’m surprised you have not had any airbag or steering assist codes …
Great info but I think you might be referring to the more complex clock spring. This is the basic one since the only connections to the wheel are the airbag and horn. There are no other controls on this wheel. I only rotated it about 1 turn and the ribbon cable within the clock spring can handle that.
Even then the clock spring turns with the wheel tho… if they can only do a 1/4 turn before going bad then logically you’d only be able to turn your wheel a 1/4 turn…
Great video
One ?
Do you have to swap the ignition switch for the old 1 (is it coded) if putting original tumbler back on
Basically I brought a new lock with electrical switch
But wanted to use old key
Question - How did you install the old key cylinder into the new ignition housing? Around 16:03 you just pull out the assembled parts, but I am having difficulty putting my old key cylinder into the new housing I bought. I read elsewhere that you shouldn't turn the insides of the new housing with a screwdriver, before installing the key cylinder, but I unfortunately already did that. Any tips on getting it to go together now?
*****GOOD VIDEO EXCEPT WAY TOO MUCH REMOVAL*****
There is NO need to remove anything on the steering wheel - AT ALL. Disconnect battery and (1)Remove the top and bottom outside cover (3 T20 screws), then (2) DRILL out (calm down) the 2 bolts on top of the ignition lock cylinder then use an extractor kit to remove the drilled bolts out (or you can rotate them out with a flat head screwdriver and hammer - good luck on that one). (3a) Then remove the steering wheel angle sensor (bottom flat plastic tray piece under steering wheel): there is a TINY T8 screw in the front, then you need a thin pick/strong thin wire for it's front clip (unseen clip but you can wiggle around a curve near the right side of the ignition switch to depress it's hold), the rear clip is easy to get to - use your finger near the rear of it simply press it in. (3b) Disconnect it's YELLOW clip on the right rear side of angle sensor and let it hang there no need to disconnect completely. ONE MORE STEP TO FINISH. (4) stick your fingers, from the bottom pointing upwards, to release the (2) tabs holding the ignition lock housing in place. I pops right out - That''s it. Can be done in about 45-60 minutes with right tools. May take a couple of hours if your slow and cautious. But at least it's a free fix. Be Breezy -
Thanks for this. This tutorial is what I needed for my 09 (just finished putting everything back together). Turned out (after drilling into the middle part of the ignition) it had some obstruction that stopped my key from getting to the ON position.
After it being all done, I’m curious: do you know if is it necessary to remove the steering wheel because of the center bolt or are the three t25s , t9 and the security bolts good enough?
You technically only remove to make room to work. If you can get to the safety bolts without removing it I think you are good to go.
@@ShinyFastLoud I'm dealing with this exact issue for my 09 jetta, I'm having a lot of difficulty trying to drill into those freaking tamper proof bolts, once I get to it, could you explain or do a video on how to change inside the cylinder, like the middle part inside without messing it up? That is the part I am most worried about changing. Thanks for this video!
How can i only remove the lock that locks the wheel, so i can still turn my car on without removing the whole thing?
Hi mate, I’ve took out my cylinder ignition with the key swapped it. How do I get the new one in please?
Guessing that by now, most of you, including the kind and methodical person who made the video, have come to insight regarding the security bolts. You really dont have to drill them out. There are a bunch of vids on this very same disassembly procedure, from jolly brits to silent polish blokes, and all of them feature reversing the bolts out by tapping with a chisel or a punch. Tap-tap-tap dun. Replace with an M8, 20-25mm long. You can drill a smaller hole and tap in a torx driver too, if you fancy that. I honestly feel sorry for you who go the hard way about it, as this man states, the drilling of the bolts was the hardest part of it all.
And, yeah, there might be some people who have for some reason ended up with a assembly where the security bolts are much more jammy-clammy. Really, no disrespect or smart-arsery, I could have resorted to the same drilling, had I not caught the other vids first.. just hope people try tapping before drilling and save themselves trouble.
Do u have a link to those videos??
@@davidgierttal
Excellent work! Thank you
Awesome video now its time to see if I can replicate your results 😀👍
Good luck
*****GOOD VIDEO EXCEPT WAY TOO MUCH REMOVAL*****
There is NO need to remove anything on the steering wheel - AT ALL. Disconnect battery and (1)Remove the top and bottom outside cover (3 T20 screws), then (2) DRILL out (calm down) the 2 bolts on top of the ignition lock cylinder then use an extractor kit to remove the drilled bolts out (or you can rotate them out with a flat head screwdriver and hammer - good luck on that one). (3a) Then remove the steering wheel angle sensor (bottom flat plastic tray piece under steering wheel): there is a TINY T8 screw in the front, then you need a thin pick/strong thin wire for it's front clip (unseen clip but you can wiggle around a curve near the right side of the ignition switch to depress it's hold), the rear clip is easy to get to - use your finger near the rear of it simply press it in. (3b) Disconnect it's YELLOW clip on the right rear side of angle sensor and let it hang there no need to disconnect completely. ONE MORE STEP TO FINISH. (4) stick your fingers, from the bottom pointing upwards, to release the (2) tabs holding the ignition lock housing in place. I pops right out - That''s it. Can be done in about 45-60 minutes with right tools. May take a couple of hours if your slow and cautious. But at least it's a free fix. Be Breezy -
I have a similar issue with the door locks of Volkswagen Polo when I apply with the key fully inserted it pushes the pin barrel into the gullies and you can switch the key around for some reason even if it's not the correct key in the lock the locks pins in line with the gully what should I say gullies and is free to spin around without opening the lock you can spin the key around I bought this for this because you can use the left-hand side lock for the right hand side but it's just upside down but the key what is left hand right side
wow this was super helpful! I think I'm going to try this, but my steering wheel is locked. any tips on how to remove the steering wheel if the wheel is locked?
force the key forward while wiggling the steering wheel.
Did you buy the whole kit? Like the actual cylinder and black part that the key goes into? If so, did you have to swap keys? My steering wheel sometimes wont lock, sometimes it won't let me actually turn the key over to start, sometimes it won't let me shut the car off, and sometimes the key gets stuck. I'm assuming that I have to buy the whole kit? Great video tho! very helpful.
I bought the complete assembly with all three parts. The black part around the key, the center lock section and the black electrical switch. But I ended up swapping back to an oem cut key and lock cylinder so I wouldn't have to re-key the rest of the car.
You got buy that shit separately man I’m going through the process now….
*****GOOD VIDEO EXCEPT WAY TOO MUCH REMOVAL*****
There is NO need to remove anything on the steering wheel - AT ALL. Disconnect battery and (1)Remove the top and bottom outside cover (3 T20 screws), then (2) DRILL out (calm down) the 2 bolts on top of the ignition lock cylinder then use an extractor kit to remove the drilled bolts out (or you can rotate them out with a flat head screwdriver and hammer - good luck on that one). (3a) Then remove the steering wheel angle sensor (bottom flat plastic tray piece under steering wheel): there is a TINY T8 screw in the front, then you need a thin pick/strong thin wire for it's front clip (unseen clip but you can wiggle around a curve near the right side of the ignition switch to depress it's hold), the rear clip is easy to get to - use your finger near the rear of it simply press it in. (3b) Disconnect it's YELLOW clip on the right rear side of angle sensor and let it hang there no need to disconnect completely. ONE MORE STEP TO FINISH. (4) stick your fingers, from the bottom pointing upwards, to release the (2) tabs holding the ignition lock housing in place. I pops right out - That''s it. Can be done in about 45-60 minutes with right tools. May take a couple of hours if your slow and cautious. But at least it's a free fix. Be Breezy -
Hey amazing video, just a question where does the switch cable gets connected i know one side is connected to the barrel switch where does the other side goes
If the problem is the section which the key goes into can’t you just remove that and replace without having to take everything apart?
Or Is it generally the metal cylinder that is at fault?
Mine is jamming /getting stuck mainly when I try to turn off ignition I have to wiggle the key in lots of ways and eventually it will turn off
Great video
Thanks!
Replaced the ignition. Now the immobilizer is kicking on saying the key is not found even though they are in the car? Both the new and the old key are in the car. Still getting the error. Did i miss something?
How do you remove the key lock when you are not able to turn the key to line up the holes?
Your my new hero!
Awsome video I was wondering do I have to program the new key ?
Possibly, if it is a matching set you 'might' not have to, but eventually I did because I ordered a factor cut key matching the rest of the locks.
My question is can't i just stick the chip onto the ring or does the code change, i have changed lock but have to hold the old key right next to the coil
If I connect the old ignition switch and the old part were the key goes into and connect both those old parts to the robust cylinder I wouldn’t need to reprogram right?
I believe that is correct. you can even swap the RFID chips in the key fobs to match as well. I ended up ordering new fobs which needed to be reprogrammed.
Do I need to take out the black end piece opposite of the key lock from my old cylinder to the new one?
Like after I take out the key lock, do I need to take the other end to put into the new cylinder?
My 2007 jetta starts perfectly sometimes!!! And other times I put the key in the ignition and turn the key and there is no crank/no start!!!! Only the dashboard and headlights come on!!! Please help me
could be a bunch of things. including the switch portion of the ignition.....which is the plastic part all the way to the left.
I dont even have dashboard. Could it be the key nahh immobilizer only works when stsrted
I have one question , what causes the key not turning on ? My friend Mona”s 2008 rabbit is doing the same problem by not turning over , Thank you
mine had a small broken piece of the cast metal causing the lock cylinder to get stuck.
Do you have to reprogram anything if your are only changing the lock housing with the ignition switch? I plan to reuse the same key and cylinder/ring. I'm hopeful this work on a Tiguan. Thanks for the video, very helpful!
In theory you shouldn't have to reprogram if using the same key and ring but I ended up having to reprogram.
@@ShinyFastLoud I can confirm you don't have to reprogram. I swapped the switch and the cylinder yesterday. The car is running smoothly now. A 90 degree drill adapter is very helpful, all you need to remove (drill) is those 2 security bolts and disconnect 4 connectors which simplifies the process. Thanks again!
Of course you do need to program the transponder for the immobiliser
@@ShinyFastLoud how do you reprogram?
Thank you
you are welcome
Great video, but my airbag light has came on will it go out after a drive.
You probably moved the 'clock assembly 180° off. Wasn't explained in video that the 'shiny ring cannot be rotated while off the steering column. Replacing it with a new one is not too expensive.
After replacing the lock cylinder do you have to rekey to match the new cylinder?
if you replace the cylinder you would have to rekey to doors, trunk, etc to match to one key. Or you could order the OEM cylinder from the dealer and they will cut it to match the existing key. Its a little pricey but it is probably the easiest way to know you will have a matching key and it will be coded properly.
completed install but car will not recognize the new key car just shuts off. Need Help
Great video , we have followed all this but we can’t get the car to start properly, it starts then cuts out , then a steering warning light comes on but everything is definitely back correctly.
The immobilizer is stopping it. Make sure the RFID chips in the key and the ring match. If they do then you may unfortunately need the dealer to reprogram it.
Do you happen to know the size drill bit you used to drill out the bolts? It would be a huge help to a lady with limited tools and limited budget 😅
Honestly I don't. I used multiple bits, starting small and working my way up.
@@ShinyFastLoud 6:22
T25 I believe
The bolts are the easiest thing to remove. I,ve been taking them off for over 30 years . Center punch once it bites it’s off ,Tension has gone,
I just used a centre punch and tapped the sheer bolts to slacken them off
That's great to know.....my bolts were tight and remained tight.
My steering wheel will not unlock so I can't access the screws or airbag clips. Been wiggling my steeling wheel for half an hour and nothing.
Would changing the ignition cylinder require you to reprogram the car key?
No , you keep your original parts,You transfer them to your lock cylinder,
How to reprogram the key after replacing the ignition switch?
Unfortunately, I have only been able to reprogram them via the dealer.
Great job 👍👏
Thank you 👍
Do you have to program anything to start the car our is it plug and Play ?
I had to get it reprogrammed
Thank you for reply❤
@ShinyFastLoud what needed reprogramming if you retained the original key and cylinder ? Doing this on my 07 rabbit
@@4mula353 if you only replace the middle part you don”t have to programme anything.
10:20 Hey, so I have a 2009 VW Rabbit and I am not able to reach those screws at all in the car. They are farther back than in the video and I can barley even see the screws beacause of how crammed they are in there. Is there any way to move the steering column forward or down more?
It should have a telescopic steering column. Just drop the little tab thing down and pull the steering wheel towards yourself
What kind of drill bit did you use. Titanium bit?
Supposedly titanium coated. Regular set of bits from Home Depot
@@ShinyFastLoud titanium bit and impact driver?? Thank you so much. This is help lots
If anyone sees this, anyone know where to order a new cylinder? Like a link? I just can’t seem to find anything reliable, I keep finding new cylinders that don’t include the locking mechanism where you actually insert the key (the part he talked about taking off with a paperclip)
I got mine from rockauto, no reprogram no issues what so ever. Just uninstall the old and put in the new. Easy peasy.
Great video
I was not able to remove the locking switch
It won't turn to the on position
Any hints
2013 VW JETTA
If the car is an automatic you might have to pop the shifter cover and try to override the interlock.
I did the same thing and the anti theft came on … car turns off and shuts off right afte 1-2 seconds …
Is unplugging the battery necessary f
I would just because you ware messing around electrical connectors and the airbag.
Hi, does anyone know the part number for the New cylinder? Thanks!
for 2008 gti golf it is 1K0 905 851 B. My VW store, and many more, are back ordered until the end of Oct 2023. You can get the same one from NAPA for about 10-20% less. Guaranteed to fit.
*****GOOD VIDEO EXCEPT WAY TOO MUCH REMOVAL*****
There is NO need to remove anything on the steering wheel - AT ALL. Disconnect battery and (1)Remove the top and bottom outside cover (3 T20 screws), then (2) DRILL out (calm down) the 2 bolts on top of the ignition lock cylinder then use an extractor kit to remove the drilled bolts out (or you can rotate them out with a flat head screwdriver and hammer - good luck on that one). (3a) Then remove the steering wheel angle sensor (bottom flat plastic tray piece under steering wheel): there is a TINY T8 screw in the front, then you need a thin pick/strong thin wire for it's front clip (unseen clip but you can wiggle around a curve near the right side of the ignition switch to depress it's hold), the rear clip is easy to get to - use your finger near the rear of it simply press it in. (3b) Disconnect it's YELLOW clip on the right rear side of angle sensor and let it hang there no need to disconnect completely. ONE MORE STEP TO FINISH. (4) stick your fingers, from the bottom pointing upwards, to release the (2) tabs holding the ignition lock housing in place. I pops right out - That''s it. Can be done in about 45-60 minutes with right tools. May take a couple of hours if your slow and cautious. But at least it's a free fix. Be Breezy -
I removed the wheel to make room for the drive before I purchased a proper angle drill.
Hey J how do I find someone in Atlanta to replace the ignition switch lock cylinder know anyone.
Call around an check VW facebook groups for recommendations.
I don't understand your method... I did the same job by just removing the 3 cover screws 2 behind the steering wheel and 1 below, without removing the steering wheel... Then the 2 screws with broken heads without drill just a small punch and a hammer and then the 2 electrical plugs of the neiman and the dismantling work is finished in 15 minutes while drinking a coffee!!!
I'm surprised you were able to just knock the safety screws out with a punch. I'm jealous that yours was so much easier.
So what you used a punch but how did you turn the broken bolts out?
@@abelscaliber7969seen some people using the punch to tapping the bolts out like easy😂😂😂. I just can't do it
Una muy buena explicación pero batalle con los subtítulos traducen muchas tonterías que confunden
Tiene que hacer algo RUclips con los subtítulos son BASURA saludos 🇲🇽
*****GOOD VIDEO EXCEPT WAY TOO MUCH REMOVAL*****
There is NO need to remove anything on the steering wheel - AT ALL. (1)Remove the top and bottom outside cover (3 T20 screws), then (2) DRILL out (calm down) the 2 bolts on top of the ignition lock cylinder then use an extractor kit to remove the drilled bolts out (or you can rotate them out with a flat head screwdriver and hammer - good luck on that one). (3a) Then remove the steering wheel angle sensor (bottom flat plastic tray piece under steering wheel): there is a TINY T8 screw in the front, then you need a thin pick/strong thin wire for it's front clip (unseen clip but you can wiggle around a curve near the right side of the ignition switch to depress it's hold), the rear clip is easy to get to - use your finger near the rear of it simply press it in. (3b) Disconnect it's YELLOW clip on the right rear side of angle sensor and let it hang there no need to disconnect completely. ONE MORE STEP TO FINISH. (4) stick your fingers, from the bottom pointing upwards, to release the (2) tabs holding the ignition lock housing in place. I pops right out - That''s it. Can be done in about 45-60 minutes with right tools. May take a couple of hours if your slow and cautious. But at least it's a free fix. Be Breezy -
I removed the wheel to make room for the drill.
Not a word about reprogramming… I’m not auto savvy but wouldn’t you need to reprogram it?
19:05 there’s ur word about programming, try watching the entire video
No need, you're moving over your cylinder
You don’t have remove steering and airbag . You shuld need more experience
11:57
8:58
Those Bolt for safety? Bro you just unplug the socket from the ignition cylinder and hot wire start the car
Hotwiring is one thing, but the other security device is locking the wheel so you can't steer.
My 2012 Jetta has a gas immobilizer if it doesn't find the chip in the key. Gas shuts off in one second.
18:50.
You did not end this video well, why... yr Job isn't finished ?
You don't show to start the engine and drive, with the replacement key.
My advice, better make a new video completely.
Other point, showe very good how to disconnect the cruise control unit & other poin, don't put the steering wheel back before you put the plastic covering so that you don't have to turn the wheel again and again every time.
For the rest, well don you tried your best making this video, congratulations.
GREETINGS from Johan D. BELGIUM