Gundam/ mech model workshop 95: Tamiya acrylic clear flat (XF-86)
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- A review and demonstration of how to pre mix and apply XF-86 Tamiya acrylic clear flat via a 0.3mm duel action airbrush.
Clear flat can also refer as matte, mat and dull coat.
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This was super helpful, thank you sir!
Awesome. Just what i needed to know
3 part thinner and flat clear XF-86 1 part ? for airbrush?
yes
mokanaman thank you.
@mokanaman does this mean that for 10ml clear, I mix 30 ml thinner? Thanks!
@@RyBreezzy No! it means 5ml Clear + 15ml thinner or 15ml clear + 45ml thinner.
I recently sprayed using XF-86, thinned 1:1 and 1:2, was getting bad frosting. Never had frost issues with the spray can Mr Top Coat. Ended up having to slowly sand the kit to fix it, but some inner deep grooves still showed some frosting. So annoying. Sounds like going with a 1:3 ratio is the proper approach. I also think I sprayed two layers too quickly, since it was hard to tell if I sprayed enough before letting it full cure/dry.
I've been trying to make a matte varnish by mixing X-22 clear and X-21 with minimal success. Hopefully this will be a lot better.
Glad to be of assistance, matt coats is not easy and if applied too thick spray some clear gloss and try again.
Thank you!! 🙏
4 questions:
(1) how do I prevent dust sticking... at least minimise to lowest chance of having dust sticking to it?
(2) Will shining strong lighting ( tungsten filament bulb) at a freshly sprayed item (I) help it dry faster and (ii) reduce dust sticking since hot air rising which prevent dust from dropping downwards to it?
(3) should I keep an airbrush just for spraying. Clear coat? So that residue do to previous dried paint will create dirt debris
4) any problem with enamel clear onto acrylic water base paint surface ?
1) After spraying place model in a bread box or cake cover, any sort of air tight container will work. 2) The heat from a tungsten lamp will cure the paint quicker. UV in the light has no event so heat radiating from a heater or other devices will do the same. 3) With a good cleaning and maintenance regime you should not need one but a back up airbrush is never a bad idea. If you do get a special clear coat/ priming airbrush get something cheap with a 0.5mm needle and nozzle to prevent frost and over spray. 4) Enamel over tamiya and gunzi paint in thin coat is ok. Water based may have trouble. Try out on a test piece or spoon first. Be ware enamel is very slow to dry and cure taking days before handling can occur. The finish is amazing and worth the wait.
What if you can't get your hands on tamiya thinners
Excellent question which I cover in other videos about thinner, isopropyl alcohol will do it as well.
Many thanks for the tips.
hello, I am new in Gundam kits. I was wondering if you recommend the Tamiya flst clear over the Mr color flat clear to be used as too coat for a finished Gundam kit. alternatively, do you know how good the Tamiya ts-80 spray Is as top coat? I've heard mixed feelings since it is lacquer based
The acrylic has the advantage of having a ruff surface and ideal for weathering. If you do not intend to use pigments or filters you do not need to use this products. TS-80 spray work well from my experience but I've always like testors dull coat during my rattle can days. Mr. Hobby clear matt is nice as it has a smooth and ruff matt finish option once you start weathering.
So is it possible to spray the clear flat instead of spraying gloss for the panel lining step? It would certainly speed things up for me if yes.
it is a yes mate, this video is a bit old. Consider checking out Mr. Flat base smooth for the perfect result. ruclips.net/video/fJZD9jkn5eU/видео.html
Have a question if I dont have airbrush can I use normal brush like paint brush?
yes you can and have tested this before, you can also add little more thinner
@@mokanaman ok so to use with paintblush I should use more thinner right?
I will use it on skin of my pvc anime figure I don't have experience on this so I'm kinda nervous.
@@mokanamanIf I use paintbrush wiill it leave brush mark on it? or matte gonna look weird?
Can o use lacquer thinner?
You can but results can be different and have had more success/ better results with isopropyl alcohol
Hi Allan, im new to painting model tanks and ive read the using laquerbased flat coat like tamiya TS80 or Testors eats up the paint and decals..with your video, i know now how to paint my tank models step by step
Primer
Base coat
Camou
Gloss coat then decals and weathering
Then flat coat to seal them all up...
Is this right?
Thank you
Very sorry for the late reply, your list is correct and I hope this message does not come too late.
@@mokanaman thanks mate!...stay safe!
Alan. I wonder if you can help. Once you have airbrushed your model with its finished colour scheme, what would you use before you add the decals? Would XF-86 be okay? I want to add decals and then weather. Can I use XF-86 for all stages i.e before adding decals, after weathering as a finish coat (if you didn't want a gloss finish)? I'm in the UK so getting some paints (testers dull coat etc) can be difficult. Thank you mate.
Hello Chris, generally with decals they need to be applied on a gloss surface and sealed with a light gloss or semi gloss layer to prevent slivering (the edges of the decals turn white). Once the finial layer of gloss is applied then you can use a dull finish for weathering. This is my normal process, really any brand or type of gloss and dull can work but XF-86 and Mr. Color Flat ruff does take to weathering pigments nicely. Anything can work from testors, Tamiya and even artist clears.
I do armour vehicles never used clear on them can I use your example on a Churchill tank painted in acrylics and after the clear coat do some washes?
If you have a deeper dig onto my channel I do a lot of 72nd armor. Sludge and pin washes do work over and under this mix. Since then I have moved to lacquer and still use the same method without issue.
some washes have a gloss sheen so I add another coat onto to matt everything up.
@@mokanaman thanks mate do you use reddit at all?
@@mkennedy7431 I do not really engage in many communities or social media groups any more. Sorry. Just keeping to myself on my channel and pages however the comment sections and pm are always open to answer questions or chat about topics around my builds or products reviewed.
Hello, I have heard that if you apply TS 80 (Flat Clear) over the top of decals it can have an effect on them have you had any experience with this happening?
Regarding decals the clear parts can silver or fog up from the surface it is sitting on and becomes more obvious from matt coat application. To prevent slivering make sure lots of water is used to slide the decal and not applied dry. The surface is as smooth as possible. You may need to clear gloss or polish the painted surface. Apply a clear gloss on top for protection then matt for the perfect finish. These clear gloss coats only have to be thin and not even shiny.
TY
I just got my bottles of XF86 (10ml), dropped 1 jar into an empty 40ml X20A bottle I had and then filled the rest with X20A thinner.
Needed to make a clear coat to spray over my armor models, so I can use the AK Interactive washes I will use.
Great video.
long time coming but I've bought 100's of plastic 100ml eye dropper bottles to fill with paint and pre thin. Life will be so much easier.
so this is ideal after applying clear coat to seal decals to make the gloss surface flat?
Can i also use this for hand painting?
It is ideal for using over a gloss coat and can the same mix can be hand painted.
thanks
So 3:1 ratio, 20ml clear flat and 60ml X-20A thinner?
that is correct
Hiya, have you had any issues with small white dots appearing on your finish?
Yes if too much has been applied, this can be fixed with a little lacquer thinner being dusted over the kit via airbrush.
My XF-86 looks more satin than flat. I applied a layer of XF-86 on top of XF-60 and the XF-60 became slightly shinier.
The coats need to go on in dusted layers, if applied wet and thick the resin will raise to the top making it more glossy.
mokanaman
Thanks for the help!
What would be the ratio for a 23ml tamiya bottle, havent got the 40ml tall one :/
Half the amount would be good enough or 5-7ml of clear flat to 15ml of thinner.
@@mokanaman Cheerz mate... Could you do in the future a similar video using tamiya x-35 semi-clear gloss
Please. can you tell me again the amount of thinner and clear flat to mix. if i put 10 drops of clear flat, how many drops of thinner do i have to mix? thanks.
+Roberto Austria 30 drops of thinner
is the same for the x22 clear and the x35 semi gloss clear? if you can review the x35 and x22 it would be helpful. thanks. your videos help me a lot.
with those two use as if you were airbrushing normal tamiya paint. gloss clear can be thinned more but will not appear to be glossy which is an advantage.
On second thoughts I will consider it.
+mokanaman hello again. for the x22 and x35 is correct thinner 50/50? thanks.
Noob question is this a top coat?
This can be used as a top and one of my favorite ones too.
mokanaman thanks
Is there a way where I can get metallic red or make it ?
You can buy metallic red from a few different brands now. Candy red is also possible.
can you give me a website to go ? I tried Amazon :/
ebay is your best bet
@@johnnychun9728 you can also use clear red sprayed over chrome for the same effect.
Hello Alan :)
Any idea about Mr.Super clear III , whats the best thinner ratio ? and PSI ?
thank you :)
Its lacquer based, I'd go 50/50 at 11-15psi
Many thanks Alan :)
I am trying to make a Tamiya Ferrari F50 carbon fiber model.. appear shinier.. that carbon fiber as it comes is a little dull. Can you tell me how to make it shiny?
You want to dilute gloss clear heavily similar ratio and apply in layers till happy.
mokanaman
Dilute with thinner?
yes