Thanks a lot I have a 2010 93 aero my car is doing the low power in auto and when switching gears I have code P1312 I’m going to go to my guys in New Haven Michigan and get me a replacement as I’ve alr switched the spark plugs and coils thanks a lot I have my cars on my channel
Excellent communication skills, Demonstrated wisdom of work methods, pragmatic approach to component choices. Thanks for sharing your experience with us. Enjoy the test run.
Having just purchased my first 2000 Saab 9.3 convertible with 124,000 miles on it and showing code p0340, p1105,p1312 and p1334 I want to thank you for your video. I was going to order a new DCI and I can do it now with more confidence as to where to buy and still save over the OEM. Looking forward to spring time top down.
Codes P1312 & P1334 come up & internet says shorted on cyls 1 2 3 4 - looks as though I'll need another one of these after all. Previous one fitted in 2008 so not bad I suppose - only plays up while hot though. Wasn't aware of the grease needed - but I think wrong plugs fitted NGK 7ES instead of the 6ES needed for the Lpt ecopower? Got the grease on order & tempted to try it with the right plugs first? However presumably that'll mean another set with a DIC (the wife will be pleased) if it doesn't work? Thanks for the walkthrough on this - great to know the correct procedures & the rear caliper btw - mine had seized & it helped a lot. 👍🤟🖖
read on a swedish saab forum a post from someone who was a saab mechanic saying that the turning the DIC on it's head doesn't matter that is just a myth you don't need to wait either. I think that is accurate.
Hi - I have an intermittent engine light say every 6-8 starts & did stall the other day after the 6 or so needed for the yearly inspection in Portugal. It got pretty hot during this too. Quite a few videos have replaced the crank position sensor with reported success- anyway to double check which is the best bet? The dic is easy but expensive but the cps (I can see one fitted) is cheap but looks an absolute ***** to replace! Would checking with a cheap obd2 tool help? If so any recommendations? Thanks
Hi there, how did you get on with the Pro Parts DIC? Any issues? My new DIC arrived today and it's a so-called 'Saab Original' part, my first non-SEM.. Also, I have a 2002 9-3 SE 2.0 lpt which is losing coolant and coming out through the exhaust. It's not chugging out like a steam train but just a gentle wafting that does not go away, even when warm. I changed the turbo but the issue remains. I used a chemical kit to test for exhaust gas in the expansion tank to check the HG but surprisingly it passed. I'm going to change the HG anyway but not looking forward to this on my driveway in winter. Aside from a cracked head, have you come across anything else it might be that would cause coolant to get into the combustion cycle? Many thanks!
No problems with the Pro Parts DIC, but I don't put a lot of miles on the convertible. Usually the headgasket leaks in the LF of the car area, or LR of the engine, if that makes sense. (transverse engine) Or, if overheated, I've seen them leak between cyl. 2&3. It's a fairly easy headgasket job. (I don't recall anything else causing a burning of coolant.)
@@saabtech3510 Thanks very much for the reply. That gives me some more confidence! Other than that issue the engine is quite smooth so I'm looking forward to finally getting it on the road!
1998? (my previous) The car wasn't made until Sept 2000! Duh! Anyway as step 1 replaced the plugs with 6ES & cleaned plug insulation & cassette boots with wd40 special fluid insulates up to 33kv pending grease, new plugs & Hitachi dic & instant improvement. More power better mpg - 30.7 to 34+ & no engine light after hot start! Still same fault per obd2 reader though.... but an improvement... Will keep the current as spare & torx bits driver when it's replaced... 5 year gtee on the new one... via Autodoc 👍👍
Last instalment - the Hitachi/Huco DIC came pre greased so in with the new plugs & that & road tested. First thing was the old Engine light back - same code but this time when I cleared it the engine didn't flinch like it did with the previous clearance. Ran great & back up to 34mpg despite the shorter distance but what I also noticed was the decreased increase in consumption when under load - better timing I suppose! Anyhow spare fits easily in the boot/trunk & a torx spanner in the glove box. Several hot starts later - zero faults ! I shouldn't be stranded for that reason any time soon. Once again many thanks for the excellent videos - helpful. 👍🖖
Thks for getting back to me! Reason for my concern,eeuroparts lists three options,pro parts, oes ,&genuine Saab. I first ordered the most expensive “genuine Saab” but they sent some module with no sticker or numbers on it look like it was refurbished...any way I sent it back and they sent another one but the packing slip, listed it’ as oem/oes , however it’s show the Saab prints and a manufacturer sticker but not sure it was what I paid for since nowhere does it say Original Saab.what do you think?
Do you need to replace the sparkplugs? Or can you just pop on the new cassette when down the road? planing a long trip... mine has been replaces over 3 times now...
I'm getting a code P1300 torque signal limitation low and my turbo gauge redlines. What could cause that? I have changed almost everything there is to change. Sometimes it drives fine but then it'll act up again. I really appreciate any help about this issue
Hard to say, but some ideas: 1) Only use OE plugs. 2) Swap IDM with known good one. 3) Check really well for any vacuum leaks. Move the vacuum hoses and stuff as they may leak only at certain times. 4) Crank Position Sensor can act up at different temperatures etc. Good Luck!
Is there a way to check the resistance with a multi-meter on the DIC? I suspect that I have an issue. Mine is cracked and giving me P1334 and P1312 code. Thanks so much
I never checked them with a meter. Those codes confirm it is bad. If it still runs the car, save it in the trunk for emergency use. Always good to carry a back up to save a tow!
Interesting.. Imo Eeuro is only a shadow of it's former owners business (which failed by the way). I wouldn't be too trusting. Pro Parts has Proven itself as a low quality parts source. A few Bux saved may not feel so good in the pocket when a failure happens. Your DI still performing as expected ? NGK currently owns and produces Genuine SEM DI Cassettes... Complete with sticker and date codes. Prices are even a bit lower than SEM used to be .. as bonus. Currently Rock Auto has best DI prices
Is a oem/oes part the same genuine Saab? I ordered a genuine Saab cassete but recieved an oem from eeuroparts..can u help with how to defer should there be an genuine Saab packaging? Plz help thks
Hi. Yes, I still have this car. I won't ever sell it. I have not had to do any repairs in a while and been busy with other things, but will try to post a new video before too long. Thank you for asking!
@@saabtech3510 I got into Saab over a year ago your channel was one of my first stop regarding changing the radiator in my 2002 Saab 93 hatch back and I’ve been watching all your videos since.watching your videos gives me the confidence to work on my cars which is a 2003 Saab 93 convertible on a 2002 93 hatchback my 2003 present fuel pump just went out and I went back to your video to look at how to remove and replace a fuel pump and also what tools and parts needed the few videos that you made regarding working on your Saab was well put together and make working on or Service in my cars seems easy for me thanks again for your Time spent with a camera making those videos👍👍👍
Hi quick question in the video for removing the fuel pump you use a Specialty tool to remove the fuel line from the fuel rail where can I get one to purchased thanks
@@jamrockrc172 Most auto stores. Ebay. Measure the line diameters. There are a variety available. I got mine a long time ago at work, and not sure of the source.
thanks for the thorough instructions, Love my SAAB!
Thanks a lot I have a 2010 93 aero my car is doing the low power in auto and when switching gears I have code P1312 I’m going to go to my guys in New Haven Michigan and get me a replacement as I’ve alr switched the spark plugs and coils thanks a lot I have my cars on my channel
great video !!! useful advice
Excellent communication skills, Demonstrated wisdom of work methods, pragmatic approach to component choices. Thanks for sharing your experience with us. Enjoy the test run.
Having just purchased my first 2000 Saab 9.3 convertible with 124,000 miles on it and showing code p0340, p1105,p1312 and p1334 I want to thank you for your video. I was going to order a new DCI and I can do it now with more confidence as to where to buy and still save over the OEM. Looking forward to spring time top down.
Long video ya, but great info. No one really needs a "how to" video on DIC replacement lol. This video covered a bunch of handy info.
Codes P1312 & P1334 come up & internet says shorted on cyls 1 2 3 4 - looks as though I'll need another one of these after all. Previous one fitted in 2008 so not bad I suppose - only plays up while hot though. Wasn't aware of the grease needed - but I think wrong plugs fitted NGK 7ES instead of the 6ES needed for the Lpt ecopower?
Got the grease on order & tempted to try it with the right plugs first? However presumably that'll mean another set with a DIC (the wife will be pleased) if it doesn't work? Thanks for the walkthrough on this - great to know the correct procedures & the rear caliper btw - mine had seized & it helped a lot. 👍🤟🖖
read on a swedish saab forum a post from someone who was a saab mechanic saying that the turning the DIC on it's head doesn't matter that is just a myth you don't need to wait either. I think that is accurate.
Yes. In decades of working on these and always resting them upside down on the workbench....never had a problem that I am aware of. Thanks!
Hi - I have an intermittent engine light say every 6-8 starts & did stall the other day after the 6 or so needed for the yearly inspection in Portugal. It got pretty hot during this too. Quite a few videos have replaced the crank position sensor with reported success- anyway to double check which is the best bet? The dic is easy but expensive but the cps (I can see one fitted) is cheap but looks an absolute ***** to replace! Would checking with a cheap obd2 tool help? If so any recommendations? Thanks
Hi there, how did you get on with the Pro Parts DIC? Any issues? My new DIC arrived today and it's a so-called 'Saab Original' part, my first non-SEM.. Also, I have a 2002 9-3 SE 2.0 lpt which is losing coolant and coming out through the exhaust. It's not chugging out like a steam train but just a gentle wafting that does not go away, even when warm. I changed the turbo but the issue remains. I used a chemical kit to test for exhaust gas in the expansion tank to check the HG but surprisingly it passed. I'm going to change the HG anyway but not looking forward to this on my driveway in winter. Aside from a cracked head, have you come across anything else it might be that would cause coolant to get into the combustion cycle? Many thanks!
No problems with the Pro Parts DIC, but I don't put a lot of miles on the convertible. Usually the headgasket leaks in the LF of the car area, or LR of the engine, if that makes sense. (transverse engine) Or, if overheated, I've seen them leak between cyl. 2&3. It's a fairly easy headgasket job. (I don't recall anything else causing a burning of coolant.)
@@saabtech3510 Thanks very much for the reply. That gives me some more confidence! Other than that issue the engine is quite smooth so I'm looking forward to finally getting it on the road!
1998? (my previous) The car wasn't made until Sept 2000! Duh! Anyway as step 1 replaced the plugs with 6ES & cleaned plug insulation & cassette boots with wd40 special fluid insulates up to 33kv pending grease, new plugs & Hitachi dic & instant improvement. More power better mpg - 30.7 to 34+ & no engine light after hot start! Still same fault per obd2 reader though.... but an improvement...
Will keep the current as spare & torx bits driver when it's replaced... 5 year gtee on the new one... via Autodoc 👍👍
Last instalment - the Hitachi/Huco DIC came pre greased so in with the new plugs & that & road tested. First thing was the old Engine light back - same code but this time when I cleared it the engine didn't flinch like it did with the previous clearance. Ran great & back up to 34mpg despite the shorter distance but what I also noticed was the decreased increase in consumption when under load - better timing I suppose! Anyhow spare fits easily in the boot/trunk & a torx spanner in the glove box. Several hot starts later - zero faults ! I shouldn't be stranded for that reason any time soon.
Once again many thanks for the excellent videos - helpful. 👍🖖
Thks for getting back to me! Reason for my concern,eeuroparts lists three options,pro parts, oes ,&genuine Saab.
I first ordered the most expensive “genuine Saab” but they sent some module with no sticker or numbers on it look like it was refurbished...any way I sent it back and they sent another one but the packing slip, listed it’ as oem/oes , however it’s show the Saab prints and a manufacturer sticker but not sure it was what I paid for since nowhere does it say Original Saab.what do you think?
Maybe you can phone them to discuss your concerns?
Do you need to replace the sparkplugs? Or can you just pop on the new cassette when down the road? planing a long trip... mine has been replaces over 3 times now...
You can replace the plugs whenever you want. Be sure to use OE. In a breakdown situation, you should be able to swap out the cassette and go.
@@saabtech3510 OE??
@@marcelkrijger4534 Original equipment. Very important on the spark plugs. The cassettes hate anything else.
I'm getting a code P1300 torque signal limitation low and my turbo gauge redlines. What could cause that? I have changed almost everything there is to change. Sometimes it drives fine but then it'll act up again. I really appreciate any help about this issue
Hard to say, but some ideas: 1) Only use OE plugs. 2) Swap IDM with known good one. 3) Check really well for any vacuum leaks. Move the vacuum hoses and stuff as they may leak only at certain times. 4) Crank Position Sensor can act up at different temperatures etc. Good Luck!
Is there a way to check the resistance with a multi-meter on the DIC? I suspect that I have an issue. Mine is cracked and giving me P1334 and P1312 code. Thanks so much
I never checked them with a meter. Those codes confirm it is bad. If it still runs the car, save it in the trunk for emergency use. Always good to carry a back up to save a tow!
Do you know if the (1998-2001) 9-5 SE’s Neutral Safety switch is compatible with the 9-3 SE?
Looks like maybe not: www.saabusaparts.com/searchresults.asp?Search=trans+range+switch&Submit=
Hey, lm totally new. Can u give a list of the tools u used in video?
@@saabtech3510hi , sorry to hijack thread, but can u list the tools you used in this video?
@@dereck062its just a torx screwdriver and you open the 4 screws. After that it pop off the clip on the side and lift it up. After that its done.
Should I send it back?
Interesting.. Imo Eeuro is only a shadow of it's former owners business (which failed by the way).
I wouldn't be too trusting. Pro Parts has Proven itself as a low quality parts source.
A few Bux saved may not feel so good in the pocket when a failure happens.
Your DI still performing as expected ?
NGK currently owns and produces Genuine SEM DI Cassettes... Complete with sticker and date codes.
Prices are even a bit lower than SEM used to be .. as bonus.
Currently Rock Auto has best DI prices
Thanks for the good info. Very helpful. My DI is fine, but I don't put many miles on the car anymore, so not much of a test.
Is a oem/oes part the same genuine Saab? I ordered a genuine Saab cassete but recieved an oem from eeuroparts..can u help with how to defer should there be an genuine Saab packaging? Plz help thks
Genuine Saab has a serial number on the bottom of the cassette.
Hi just checking if you still drive this Saab and why know more video
Hi. Yes, I still have this car. I won't ever sell it. I have not had to do any repairs in a while and been busy with other things, but will try to post a new video before too long. Thank you for asking!
@@saabtech3510 I got into Saab over a year ago your channel was one of my first stop regarding changing the radiator in my 2002 Saab 93 hatch back and I’ve been watching all your videos since.watching your videos gives me the confidence to work on my cars which is a 2003 Saab 93 convertible on a 2002 93 hatchback my 2003 present fuel pump just went out and I went back to your video to look at how to remove and replace a fuel pump and also what tools and parts needed the few videos that you made regarding working on your Saab was well put together and make working on or Service in my cars seems easy for me thanks again for your Time spent with a camera making those videos👍👍👍
Hi quick question in the video for removing the fuel pump you use a Specialty tool to remove the fuel line from the fuel rail where can I get one to purchased thanks
@@jamrockrc172 Most auto stores. Ebay. Measure the line diameters. There are a variety available. I got mine a long time ago at work, and not sure of the source.
@@saabtech3510 ok thanks
This video could’ve been sub 10 minutes.