So I can check mine the same way? Isn’t it supposed to blow into the TB? I just replaced my whole PCV trap and hoses this spring. I too have some oil weeping on the drivers side facing the battery. So if I unhook it from the TB hose and use a glove and it blows towards the TB it’s no good?
Revving up a Turbo and immediately turning it off with the Turbo spinning higher RPMs from the revving up will kill a turbo by starving it for oil during RPM spin down. FYI. Always allow a the RPM to idle and the turbo to spin down before turning off a Turbo Engine.
Thanks man for the post. I cleaned mine out as after watching your video I went and checked using the glove and it works perfectly I will probably still replace it because as you pointed out it's inexpensive but I also found some other cracked vacuum lines going to my Turbo controller so all-in-all you get an atta-boy and a gold star for the day. You save me a lot of headache from a problem I didn't even know existed
Had this part fail on my '17 GLC300 in extreme cold highway driving conditions (-35 to -40). Engine ate all the oil and then just seized and stopped. Mercedes did well though with a brand new crate engine and full exhaust full under warranty. But crazy that the failure of a little part like this could completely destroy an engine.
Mine was all full of s**t so as a temporary solution i did take that away that thing, and put the hoses together with a clamp and it work until yesterday when ( i guess ) the turbo got to much oil! I'm gonna buy a new one tmrw! I trust in this video man!
Side note you can usually delete coolant lines to TV for more power. Used for quick warm up in cold areas but if you live in a reasonably warm area it will allow a cooler intake temp for more power.
Omg thanks so much for uploading this vid it really helps me in a big way. As I told you I have to replace my throttle body myself for my 2000 Saab 9-5 wagon also the check valve. I’ll take a Video tomorrow with the hood up and car running maybe do the Clove test too😊
Thank you for posting this. It reminded me to check and the glove stands right up and is like a balloon. Valve replaced, PCV system checked and good. Compression test upcoming. Hopefully it's the turbo (which I know is on its last months) and not the rings...
Thanks for the video! In openSID I see that I am missing boost and having higher fuel consumption. In which direction should the check valve be oriented, when installing a new one? Because you can blow through one side of course
Wonderful video and inputs , thank you for sharing those . I recently bought a 50,000 miles 02 9-5 Linear , I noticed light oil leak around the throttle body . The PCV valve kit wasn't done so i bought the kit and a shop did that for me - sooner or later that was a MUST DO thing from what i read - but then they told me that i have a vacuum leak because the white check valve is bad - allows airflow from BOTH side - ! So i will order a new one and do it by myself - 1m job - but I was just wondering if that has an arrow on it so you know how to install it . Should it allow the air to go from left to right as you are sitting in front of the car or viceversa ?
I know it's an old video but i have a question. I have a saab 9-3 coupe with the 2.0 turbo (B205E) engine and i suspect theres more crank pressure than it should, as theres a leak in my sump. I tried the test with the glove and got the same result, but i was wondering, does it affect the test whether the oil is hot or not? Btw thanks for all the info on your videos, very much helpful
I have a 2004 which, if I'm understanding right, has the updated PCV system. When I started the car, the glove popped up as the engine turned, but then when it was on and started idling the gloved started to suck in briefly. Is this something I need to worry about on a 2004?
when you check the one way valve by blowing thru, how much pressure should there be? My old one was completely destroyed and could blow by both ways. The new one is not an oem and seems kind of hard to blow thru. just want to know if thats normal. going to order an OEM but this is all i have right now. it is the one for an old 2002 VW
Damn that throttlebody is 590€ o.O. Mine is also Oily. So the checkvalve can cause oil leaks at the throttle body? If so it could be enought to change the checkvalve and clean my throttlebody? Or is it likley that the throttlebody is also broken?
Hello, I am writing to you from Romania, I have a problem with the crankcase saab 93 2001 150 hp. I would like to know if the pcv6 system has the 2 large holes or not? I would like to enlarge that hole with a drill if it would work more efficiently. It's about the hose that comes in the turbo pipe (it's metal). Thank you very much!
Great trick with the gove when I started and ran the engine in sucked down into the engine. Does this indicate a different problem? I would definitely have two people. One in the driver's seat and one holding the glove because mine i saved from getting sucked into the engine.
Noooooo way. You just made go check and I don't even have a check valve....I promptly put one one not knowing the direction done the glove test and it blew air..I turned check valve around and blows still but just very little....Now I'm concerned..
I just got a 2004 Saab arc turbo, do I have to worry about this? If so can I use any check valve as long as it is a one way? Need help plz. Also I don’t know where the oil trap is.
I’ve got a 2001 Saab 9.5 2.0L motor. It’s got 344000km on it at the moment and I fitted the Pcv update kit 2 years ago at 305000km. I’ve checked the value you mentioned about and it’s ok. I’ve got glovebox blowing out on idle and acceleration. Any tips to help fix please?
If the valve cover gasket is good then oil should not get past it doesnt make sense? How would it be leaking if it good? I'm a mechanic that doesnt add up. Intake yes but valvecover no. Still good video. Did you have a lean code? Nightmare code with these cars.
I'm about to order, and replace the check valve on an 06 9-5 I just picked up. Should I just grab the valve? Or one of the kits with the tube that goes around the TB as well?
The 2006 model is a pain in the ass to change because that check valve is attached to the goddamn hard tube which means you have to finish it all the way back down and then bring it behind the intake. I’m trying to find a way to get around that and do a hack job. It’s too hot outside right now to screw around with this
Hi. I've got a 2006 9-3 2.0T SportCombi. I'm the original owner and the car has 93k miles. The engine just started idling rough and scanner shows generic code P0300. I wonder if the $10ish "check valve" could cause this problem? I also noticed a small amount of oil on a thick pipe under the engine (name unknown) My engine oil level is full and I had no prior oil leak. Any ideas for diagnosing the problem? Thanks, Mike
Now I seem to understand..... Is it to prevent boost pressure from entering crank case if that's the case now I understand..... I also notice on your cars intake there is pipe missing on plastic pipe just before throttle body... If air comes out there are you not losing boost pressure??
Hello Kyle. I tried to order the check valve filter. No Luck! The pcv valve listed on your page) sent by Amazon did not fit. The check Valve was bigger and had larger plastic inlets etc. I have tried in vain to find the correct check valve filter (part number). Could you guide me to the correct Filter? Thanks. I have a 2007 Saab 95 estate wagon.
Salut . J’ai déculassé le même modèle mais j’avais pas remarqué la position de chaque tuyau d’air 🙆🏽♂️ je n’arrive pas retrouver ou va chaque durites d'air . Pourriez-vous me venir en aide svp ??
The check valve on my 2000 Saab 9-3 convertible is smaller and yellow and can't find image like it. Is it possibs it's not an original 9-3 check valve that I've eseem pics of? THANKS
Is this the same for a Saab 9-3 I have a strange problem when I bought my 2008 9-3t 2.0 I didn't realize but the top radiator hose has a t to feed coolant to Turbo that's unhooked now so no coolant going to Turbo will this hurt my car probably right. when it is hooked up it seems like it's introducing exhaust gases into the system and over pressurizing. Entire coolant system same time it's keeps asking for coolant it's not a head gasket leak I had that tested any help on this would be greatly appreciated thanks
Hi Kyle! Thanks for your vid it helped. I ordered a new check valve as I was getting an oil leak from where you said on the rocker cover (the bottom right side). I replaced the gasket a couple months back and recently done the check valve but the oil is still leaking out. No leaks on throttle body. Any ideas of what's going on? Thanks for any advice. I have a saab 95 aero 2.3lt 2000 reg
how bad is the leak? sometimes there is some residual oil that can be there. Another thought if your is an automatic is the vacuum pump. sometimes the aftermarket gaskets can be quirky around those bends in the cover. maybe pull it off again if really bad and put some gasket maker in there. Slight film.
@@KylePancis it's slow but noticeable. I ran her for 40 mins and it was noticeable again. Its a manual. I will try that today however the leak was there when I replaced the gasket. No leaks anywhere else can't figure it out
@@Charlie-be6fx if that's the only spot that's leaky and the car passed the "glove" test. put a super-thin layer gasket maker in there and it should be good
@@KylePancis it is yes. It may be a faulty check valve I've got a new one coming as the other new one could have been. It is the only spot yes. For the glove test do you take the dipstick out? Would it work with a plastic bag? Did try didn't see any movement
Great video, Kyle - thank you! You earned a subscribe from me... I found this because I was investigating an issue with my 2002 9-5 3.0 V6 where it is burning enough oil that it smokes on start up (blue smoke) and it smokes a little sometimes when revving the engine. I checked the valve and sure enough, it failed the glove test. And then when I took it off, I could blow air with no resistance in both directions. I found a new check valve at a parts store about 20 miles away, so I'm about to go pick it up, along with some new hose because the existing one is done for. This car has 202k miles on it and it runs great. I picked it up for 500 bucks, so I'm slowly fixing things. (A lot of things, haha) If it still burns oil, what should I check next? Thanks again!
By the way... a couple weeks ago I was replacing the radiator and both hoses, and while I was at it I replaced the front-facing valve cover gasket. Spark plugs were swimming in oil. The gasket is still holding, probably because I've only driven a few miles since buttoning it back up.
Dude!, I tried the glove test on my 01 Viggen and it almost sucked the glove down the oil tube! (i.e., itdid not inflate it.) That would have sucked! So does that mean I have negative pressure and my PVC system is working properly?
I just looked any mine wasnt even connecting the 2 hoses, I ordered a new one, but can someone tell me which direction the air flow arrow is supposed to go? Hope this stops my small oil leak also!
I got a new check valve and the glove still inflates a little bit when revving the engine. What else could cause this? I’ve been searching all over the internet and can’t find good info for the 3.0! Everything seems to be for the 4-bangers. Anyway where the tube goes into the TB - it sucks in. Doesn’t blow at all.
Should be ok. Slight inflate is normal. As long as it gets that suction your getting good crank pressure. Lol some would say nothings good for the 3.0....keep saabing
Okay good. It is only slight. Next big concern is burning oil. And there is oil inside the 3” rubber boot leading into the TB. Probably safe to jump right into replacing the turbo?
Hey Kyle....... i have just acquired a 2001 9-5 2.0t... great service history, well looked after, a few stone chips here and there, but runs great. I have just changed the diverter valve for an adjustable metal one, and now the check engine light keeps coming on, i have adjusted it from hard to soft, but it has made no difference. All hoses are in place but every time i clear the code (P1110) after a day or two the CEL comes back on. Any ideas... cheers, Andy UK.
Hi Kyle. What if, in my case on idle the glove is sucked into the oil filler? After I replaced my valve with an aluminum one, having open SID the Mair is always higher than the Mreq and all this is happening after the valve replacement. Mine is 2.0 LPT stage 1 from 1999. Thanks
@@KylePancis the angine has 240tkm, at 196tkm the engine got new chain , new clutch, sump cleaned last month. Has no leaks , actually between two oil changes I dont need to add any oil.
"This part (should) get checked when you do oil changes" Yes. "I should assume someone checks this part if I'm paying for oil changes?" NOOOOO. Absolutely would never happen.
I replaced my check valve with an industrial aluminum one. These things are pesky so I figured I'd just use a heavy duty version and call it a day, month, years lol
@@KylePancis It's been about a year but others have done it and have never had to revisit the issue again after years of usage. Plus they look cooler lol. If they can handle an industrial application, they should last forever in the engine bay.
Where did you get your aluminum check valves? I have a 2008 9-5 Aero. I see what look like other check valves (one was repaired by previous owner with some kind of ‘shoe goo’ adhesive) on the hose assembly between the brake booster and throttle body if I remember correctly. Are all check valves the same (go - no-go) or are there specifications for each on depending use, air pressure, etc.?
@@mickeytabor7607 You'll want to find a one way check valve. I believe I got mine from ebay. Let me check if the history is still there so I can give you specifics. Brb
Hello to all u Saab nuts i need ur help WHERE DE HELL DOES THE nipple plumb to ? Ok so it plumbs to one way valve ?? WHERE DOES THE OTHER END GO ? tryiin to fix pops car ...cheers guys n gals! I have way mor e questions
If you test it / blow through on it and it's good, yet there's still oil blow-by on the Throttle Body, I recommend this $2 part before worrying anymore: ruclips.net/video/6tmSB2xA5bA/видео.html
Also, I am throwing a code for low voltage on my Bank 1 O2 sensor. Should I just get the new sensor and forget about it or check to see if there’s wires that are cracked and losing voltage?
wow Theo okay thank you!! So let me elaborate. It runs great up until it gets to full operating temp. Then it will stutter and hesitate a bit then it’s rip snorting. Also I failed to mention I have open Sid. I’m throwing a hella bunch of misfires. Could this be related? It has new plugs. The DIC is a year old.
@@chicagoui9299 Something to try set your plug gaps smaller 0.50mm not sure inches....My car can't run bigger gap than that without misfiring.. Try that and let me know
Hey legend! Ive had the same problem but cant find where the other end of the check valve hose fits on. the previous owner had it removed. can you tell me where to plug the other end in?? thanks so much!
@@KylePancis Yep and everything else I've owned... All the pcv system does is vent the crank case pressure back into the intake where unburned oil vapors just end up gunking and causing other issues
@@KylePancis 00' 9-3 vert HARDWARE: PCV to CCV conversation, T7 turbo bypass valve mod, mishimoto front mount intercooler (forgot what it originally goes into but it's a big boy) w/ 2.5" intake piping and open air intake, 3" custom open exhaust, random eBay oil cooler w/ customs lines, custom power steering high pressure line (stock ones won't fit with the intercooler), genuinesaab hardened motor and trans mounts, eibach lowing springs (1.5" drop),GS hardened strut mounts, custom 2" THIICC rear sway bar... Software wise, just open s.i.d tune atm until warmer weather hits then I'm going full send but it's a 205L block so the Pistons will only play till about 300bhp
So I can check mine the same way? Isn’t it supposed to blow into the TB? I just replaced my whole PCV trap and hoses this spring. I too have some oil weeping on the drivers side facing the battery. So if I unhook it from the TB hose and use a glove and it blows towards the TB it’s no good?
If it blow out it's no good. If it lays there when you rev engine. It's good
I failed to say the valve cover is lightly weeping. Does that still mean I may have a failed check valve?
Kyle Pancis thank you!!! Imma go check it.
@@chicagoui9299 pleasure.
You saved my car bro, brand new to saabs and never would've even thought about this
Revving up a Turbo and immediately turning it off with the Turbo spinning higher RPMs from the revving up will kill a turbo by starving it for oil during RPM spin down. FYI. Always allow a the RPM to idle and the turbo to spin down before turning off a Turbo Engine.
Yes! Thank you!
Thanks man for the post. I cleaned mine out as after watching your video I went and checked using the glove and it works perfectly I will probably still replace it because as you pointed out it's inexpensive but I also found some other cracked vacuum lines going to my Turbo controller so all-in-all you get an atta-boy and a gold star for the day. You save me a lot of headache from a problem I didn't even know existed
Had this part fail on my '17 GLC300 in extreme cold highway driving conditions (-35 to -40). Engine ate all the oil and then just seized and stopped. Mercedes did well though with a brand new crate engine and full exhaust full under warranty. But crazy that the failure of a little part like this could completely destroy an engine.
Mine was all full of s**t so as a temporary solution i did take that away that thing, and put the hoses together with a clamp and it work until yesterday when ( i guess ) the turbo got to much oil! I'm gonna buy a new one tmrw! I trust in this video man!
Having high hopes that this is exactly what's causing the oil leak on top of my throttle body... Thanks for a great tip!
Side note you can usually delete coolant lines to TV for more power. Used for quick warm up in cold areas but if you live in a reasonably warm area it will allow a cooler intake temp for more power.
another great tip something most Saab guy's can do they are great car's for diy guy's love my Saab's
fantastic cars! thank you
Omg thanks so much for uploading this vid it really helps me in a big way. As I told you I have to replace my throttle body myself for my 2000 Saab 9-5 wagon also the check valve. I’ll take a Video tomorrow with the hood up and car running maybe do the Clove test too😊
Before even clicking on the vid i suspected it to be the white PCV check valve lol. There are aluminium ones available that last MUCH longer
Do you know where to find it?
Pierburg 7.20235.01.0 thats the one if l am not wrong about the aluminium one
Thank you for posting this. It reminded me to check and the glove stands right up and is like a balloon. Valve replaced, PCV system checked and good. Compression test upcoming. Hopefully it's the turbo (which I know is on its last months) and not the rings...
Thanks for the video! In openSID I see that I am missing boost and having higher fuel consumption. In which direction should the check valve be oriented, when installing a new one? Because you can blow through one side of course
Arrow pointing towards TB
Wonderful video and inputs , thank you for sharing those .
I recently bought a 50,000 miles 02 9-5 Linear , I noticed light oil leak around the throttle body .
The PCV valve kit wasn't done so i bought the kit and a shop did that for me - sooner or later that was a MUST DO thing from what i read - but then they told me that i have a vacuum leak because the white check valve is bad - allows airflow from BOTH side - !
So i will order a new one and do it by myself - 1m job - but I was just wondering if that has an arrow on it so you know how to install it . Should it allow the air to go from left to right as you are sitting in front of the car or viceversa ?
Oh yes. Those damn things. Blew 2 engines before i found out that those were the reason
It looks like a B2O5 engine . Not a B235 . Is this correct?
What other symptoms did you have before changing the one-way valve? Did you notice anything odd while driving?
I know it's an old video but i have a question. I have a saab 9-3 coupe with the 2.0 turbo (B205E) engine and i suspect theres more crank pressure than it should, as theres a leak in my sump. I tried the test with the glove and got the same result, but i was wondering, does it affect the test whether the oil is hot or not? Btw thanks for all the info on your videos, very much helpful
I think my 2003 95 aero might have this issue. Thank you for the info.
💪
Thanks very much for this, believe I may have the same issue on my 05' 9-5 Aero wgn. Love the videos. Jon
I have a 2004 which, if I'm understanding right, has the updated PCV system. When I started the car, the glove popped up as the engine turned, but then when it was on and started idling the gloved started to suck in briefly. Is this something I need to worry about on a 2004?
Just to clarify, is the pcv valve in a 1.9 tid 9-5 - Will it put your diesel Saab into check engine light mode?
when you check the one way valve by blowing thru, how much pressure should there be? My old one was completely destroyed and could blow by both ways. The new one is not an oem and seems kind of hard to blow thru. just want to know if thats normal. going to order an OEM but this is all i have right now. it is the one for an old 2002 VW
Damn that throttlebody is 590€ o.O. Mine is also Oily. So the checkvalve can cause oil leaks at the throttle body? If so it could be enought to change the checkvalve and clean my throttlebody? Or is it likley that the throttlebody is also broken?
This part just blew my engine,trying to fix it now lol
Gran video ganadores un supcristo que pasa si le cambio so la válvula sin desmontar lo otro no me atrevo a hacerlo muchas gracias
Hello, I am writing to you from Romania, I have a problem with the crankcase saab 93 2001 150 hp. I would like to know if the pcv6 system has the 2 large holes or not?
I would like to enlarge that hole with a drill if it would work more efficiently. It's about the hose that comes in the turbo pipe (it's metal).
Thank you very much!
Great trick with the gove when I started and ran the engine in sucked down into the engine. Does this indicate a different problem? I would definitely have two people. One in the driver's seat and one holding the glove because mine i saved from getting sucked into the engine.
getting sucked into engine is what you want! obviously not all the way haha
@@KylePancis Oh man no that puppy suks it down hard! That you so much for your reply!
What happened to the audio in the last 2 minutes of the video?
What direction should the check valve be in ?
Noooooo way. You just made go check and I don't even have a check valve....I promptly put one one not knowing the direction done the glove test and it blew air..I turned check valve around and blows still but just very little....Now I'm concerned..
I just got a 2004 Saab arc turbo, do I have to worry about this? If so can I use any check valve as long as it is a one way? Need help plz. Also I don’t know where the oil trap is.
Witch way does the check valve face(arrow) going to TB or VALVE COVER???
I’ve got a 2001 Saab 9.5 2.0L motor. It’s got 344000km on it at the moment and I fitted the Pcv update kit 2 years ago at 305000km. I’ve checked the value you mentioned about and it’s ok. I’ve got glovebox blowing out on idle and acceleration. Any tips to help fix please?
We're can I get a stone gaurd for my 93 saab 2007 I'm in Australia tyvm. Graeme
If the valve cover gasket is good then oil should not get past it doesnt make sense? How would it be leaking if it good? I'm a mechanic that doesnt add up. Intake yes but valvecover no. Still good video. Did you have a lean code? Nightmare code with these cars.
Wait theres a saab convertible convention I just baught a saab convertible last month and I've been looking for saab clubs to join
I'm about to order, and replace the check valve on an 06 9-5 I just picked up. Should I just grab the valve? Or one of the kits with the tube that goes around the TB as well?
The 2006 model is a pain in the ass to change because that check valve is attached to the goddamn hard tube which means you have to finish it all the way back down and then bring it behind the intake. I’m trying to find a way to get around that and do a hack job. It’s too hot outside right now to screw around with this
The PCV system went through multiple revisions.
Yes! Thankfully lol. This is for the 6th edition
Hi. I've got a 2006 9-3 2.0T SportCombi. I'm the original owner and the car has 93k miles. The engine just started idling rough and scanner shows generic code P0300. I wonder if the $10ish "check valve" could cause this problem? I also noticed a small amount of oil on a thick pipe under the engine (name unknown) My engine oil level is full and I had no prior oil leak. Any ideas for diagnosing the problem? Thanks, Mike
Sounds like Spark Plugs and coils
@@KylePancis - thanks Kyle I'll report back
Now I seem to understand..... Is it to prevent boost pressure from entering crank case if that's the case now I understand..... I also notice on your cars intake there is pipe missing on plastic pipe just before throttle body... If air comes out there are you not losing boost pressure??
everything seems to be working at normal spec. But yes, the check valve is to prevents crankcase pressure from boost.
How many pcv check valves are there on these? I’m getting one soon an will be wanting to replace these
Thanks a lot! Very usefull information!)
2003 9-5 Aero with p1452...any advice???
Bit late but mine has small amount of oil from intercooler pipe. Cant see any other leaks. Would it be this
My 2005 Aero has a nasty check valve but it’s not the same size as the one here. Is there a link or P/n for the 2005 one?
Hey i got a 2002 2.3 9-5 turbo saab and when i start it alot of smoke comes out the exhaust any ideas?
So is my saab 93 1999 convertible 2.0t not se just regular basic edition is good?? I don't need this part?
Hello Kyle. I tried to order the check valve filter. No Luck! The pcv valve listed on your page) sent by Amazon did not fit. The check Valve was bigger and had larger plastic inlets etc. I have tried in vain to find the correct check valve filter (part number). Could you guide me to the correct Filter? Thanks. I have a 2007 Saab 95 estate wagon.
What do you mean leaking. Isn’t it a ball inside that opens up and closes by vacuum? How can you tell if leaking nothing filled up ..
Salut .
J’ai déculassé le même modèle mais j’avais pas remarqué la position de chaque tuyau d’air 🙆🏽♂️ je n’arrive pas retrouver ou va chaque durites d'air . Pourriez-vous me venir en aide svp ??
The check valve on my 2000 Saab 9-3 convertible is smaller and yellow and can't find image like it. Is it possibs it's not an original 9-3 check valve that I've eseem pics of? THANKS
Is this the same for a Saab 9-3 I have a strange problem when I bought my 2008 9-3t 2.0 I didn't realize but the top radiator hose has a t to feed coolant to Turbo that's unhooked now so no coolant going to Turbo will this hurt my car probably right. when it is hooked up it seems like it's introducing exhaust gases into the system and over pressurizing. Entire coolant system same time it's keeps asking for coolant it's not a head gasket leak I had that tested any help on this would be greatly appreciated thanks
Where do you get the part that is under the charge pipe where the sensor is? It bolts to the valve cover, I believe it's 3 bolts
Hi Kyle! Thanks for your vid it helped. I ordered a new check valve as I was getting an oil leak from where you said on the rocker cover (the bottom right side). I replaced the gasket a couple months back and recently done the check valve but the oil is still leaking out. No leaks on throttle body. Any ideas of what's going on? Thanks for any advice. I have a saab 95 aero 2.3lt 2000 reg
how bad is the leak? sometimes there is some residual oil that can be there. Another thought if your is an automatic is the vacuum pump. sometimes the aftermarket gaskets can be quirky around those bends in the cover. maybe pull it off again if really bad and put some gasket maker in there. Slight film.
@@KylePancis it's slow but noticeable. I ran her for 40 mins and it was noticeable again. Its a manual. I will try that today however the leak was there when I replaced the gasket. No leaks anywhere else can't figure it out
@@Charlie-be6fx if that's the only spot that's leaky and the car passed the "glove" test. put a super-thin layer gasket maker in there and it should be good
@@KylePancis it is yes. It may be a faulty check valve I've got a new one coming as the other new one could have been. It is the only spot yes. For the glove test do you take the dipstick out? Would it work with a plastic bag? Did try didn't see any movement
Great video, Kyle - thank you! You earned a subscribe from me... I found this because I was investigating an issue with my 2002 9-5 3.0 V6 where it is burning enough oil that it smokes on start up (blue smoke) and it smokes a little sometimes when revving the engine. I checked the valve and sure enough, it failed the glove test. And then when I took it off, I could blow air with no resistance in both directions. I found a new check valve at a parts store about 20 miles away, so I'm about to go pick it up, along with some new hose because the existing one is done for.
This car has 202k miles on it and it runs great. I picked it up for 500 bucks, so I'm slowly fixing things. (A lot of things, haha) If it still burns oil, what should I check next? Thanks again!
By the way... a couple weeks ago I was replacing the radiator and both hoses, and while I was at it I replaced the front-facing valve cover gasket. Spark plugs were swimming in oil. The gasket is still holding, probably because I've only driven a few miles since buttoning it back up.
@@ericgilchrist I do believe I have the same valve issue on my 9-5 3.0 V6 too.. I live in Sweden Btw!
I removed these non return valves on my 9000. Seems no problems for year
Dude!, I tried the glove test on my 01 Viggen and it almost sucked the glove down the oil tube! (i.e., itdid not inflate it.) That would have sucked! So does that mean I have negative pressure and my PVC system is working properly?
Yup! You have a healthy setup! Just make sure internal seals under oil pan are fresh...and drive away!
I just looked any mine wasnt even connecting the 2 hoses, I ordered a new one, but can someone tell me which direction the air flow arrow is supposed to go? Hope this stops my small oil leak also!
It will slow leaks up ..arrow points towards throttle body!
I got a new check valve and the glove still inflates a little bit when revving the engine. What else could cause this? I’ve been searching all over the internet and can’t find good info for the 3.0! Everything seems to be for the 4-bangers.
Anyway where the tube goes into the TB - it sucks in. Doesn’t blow at all.
Should be ok. Slight inflate is normal. As long as it gets that suction your getting good crank pressure.
Lol some would say nothings good for the 3.0....keep saabing
Okay good. It is only slight. Next big concern is burning oil. And there is oil inside the 3” rubber boot leading into the TB. Probably safe to jump right into replacing the turbo?
@@ericgilchrist yea, maybe approaching depending on how bad it is.
Hey Kyle....... i have just acquired a 2001 9-5 2.0t... great service history, well looked after, a few stone chips here and there, but runs great. I have just changed the diverter valve for an adjustable metal one, and now the check engine light keeps coming on, i have adjusted it from hard to soft, but it has made no difference. All hoses are in place but every time i clear the code (P1110) after a day or two the CEL comes back on. Any ideas... cheers, Andy UK.
My turbo pressure valve in my v6 turbo saab is ticking
Is that normal?
Thanks
What way is that valve suspos to go tho please help
Hi Kyle. What if, in my case on idle the glove is sucked into the oil filler? After I replaced my valve with an aluminum one, having open SID the Mair is always higher than the Mreq and all this is happening after the valve replacement. Mine is 2.0 LPT stage 1 from 1999. Thanks
A little sucked in is fine! That's good.
Ok, but mine sucks the whole glove in, I was actually afraid to not take the whoe glove inside
@@bakorobert9906 i dont see it being an issue. how many miles do you have? Also, any crazy leaks or noises from engine?
@@KylePancis the angine has 240tkm, at 196tkm the engine got new chain , new clutch, sump cleaned last month. Has no leaks , actually between two oil changes I dont need to add any oil.
@@bakorobert9906 sounds 10,000% healthy engine!
Is this applicable to the 04-05 B235?
Should I assume this part gets checked when I get my oil change and regular maintenance?
yes!
"This part (should) get checked when you do oil changes" Yes.
"I should assume someone checks this part if I'm paying for oil changes?" NOOOOO. Absolutely would never happen.
I replaced my check valve with an industrial aluminum one. These things are pesky so I figured I'd just use a heavy duty version and call it a day, month, years lol
Has it been good for that long?? I was thinking about doing that.
@@KylePancis It's been about a year but others have done it and have never had to revisit the issue again after years of usage. Plus they look cooler lol. If they can handle an industrial application, they should last forever in the engine bay.
Where did you get your aluminum check valves? I have a 2008 9-5
Aero. I see what look like other check valves (one was repaired by previous owner with some kind of ‘shoe goo’ adhesive) on the hose assembly between the brake booster and throttle body if I remember correctly. Are all check valves the same (go - no-go) or are there specifications for each on depending use, air pressure, etc.?
@@mickeytabor7607 You'll want to find a one way check valve. I believe I got mine from ebay. Let me check if the history is still there so I can give you specifics. Brb
@@mickeytabor7607 it was ebay.
3/8" 10mm Aluminum fuel line one way non return check valve.
New saab reveal video ?
Hahaha got something coming
Does any one know where i can get evap diagrams?
Cheers
What's the name of that part?
Hello to all u Saab nuts i need ur help WHERE DE HELL DOES THE nipple plumb to ? Ok so it plumbs to one way valve ?? WHERE DOES THE OTHER END GO ? tryiin to fix pops car ...cheers guys n gals!
I have way mor e questions
Does this apply to diesel turbos too?
Kamadev888, they dont have diesel in the US🤷🏼♂️
Increíble que los vídeos de Saab estén casi todos en Inglés
Could I bypass this and plug the intake port?
lol no. You need the intake to suck the gas vapors out of the crankcase or the oil will get even more diluted and sludged that it already does.
Does anyone have part number or which side of check valve it is? I ordered the 10mm one in the comments below, and doesn’t fit...TIA
What year is your car??? I just discovered this week they changed the part from 2004 onwards for the 9-5's.
amzn.to/30awy2r
2003 Saab 93 SE
@@joshuakohrs4900 convertible or sedan?
Convertible
If you test it / blow through on it and it's good, yet there's still oil blow-by on the Throttle Body, I recommend this $2 part before worrying anymore:
ruclips.net/video/6tmSB2xA5bA/видео.html
Thank you sir! Apparantly mine was missing and I had no idea that there was supposed to be one.
Funny…that new check valve let the glove inflate just the same as the old one did when you cranked the engine
Also, I am throwing a code for low voltage on my Bank 1 O2 sensor. Should I just get the new sensor and forget about it or check to see if there’s wires that are cracked and losing voltage?
First check wiring... Then remove 02 sensor and just clean it these things very seldom go bad so just a clean should work
wow Theo okay thank you!! So let me elaborate. It runs great up until it gets to full operating temp. Then it will stutter and hesitate a bit then it’s rip snorting. Also I failed to mention I have open Sid. I’m throwing a hella bunch of misfires. Could this be related? It has new plugs. The DIC is a year old.
@@chicagoui9299 Something to try set your plug gaps smaller 0.50mm not sure inches....My car can't run bigger gap than that without misfiring.. Try that and let me know
wow Theo for sure. Thank you.
wow Theo my engine is the 2.3T. Is .50mm okay with a stage 2 tune?
Hey legend! Ive had the same problem but cant find where the other end of the check valve hose fits on. the previous owner had it removed. can you tell me where to plug the other end in?? thanks so much!
If you own a SAAB just remove the PCV system and get yourself an Oil Catch can Setup, YOUR WHOLE INTAKE SYSTEM WILL THANK YOU
have you done this with your saab?
@@KylePancis Yep and everything else I've owned... All the pcv system does is vent the crank case pressure back into the intake where unburned oil vapors just end up gunking and causing other issues
@@KylePancis 00' 9-3 vert HARDWARE: PCV to CCV conversation, T7 turbo bypass valve mod, mishimoto front mount intercooler (forgot what it originally goes into but it's a big boy) w/ 2.5" intake piping and open air intake, 3" custom open exhaust, random eBay oil cooler w/ customs lines, custom power steering high pressure line (stock ones won't fit with the intercooler), genuinesaab hardened motor and trans mounts, eibach lowing springs (1.5" drop),GS hardened strut mounts, custom 2" THIICC rear sway bar... Software wise, just open s.i.d tune atm until warmer weather hits then I'm going full send but it's a 205L block so the Pistons will only play till about 300bhp
😊
Proctology meets with repair!!😂
I hear that the OG models don’t have this issue as much as NG. True? I ordered the $1.57 part anyway
Hey
You didn’t show anything what Kind of BS video was that
#NEVERBUYASAAB
lmao