Spark plugs contribute a lot to coil pack failures. If you keep going too long on old plugs, the gap will become too big on them, hence a larger voltage is needed to actually make it spark. If the voltage goes too high, the coilpack dies.
I have the 9-5 Aero and mine is doing this AGAIN. I just had them replaced and the spark plugs replaced less than 7 months ago. But I think the place I took it to were idiots . But they were the only garage in town.
From my experience, regarding the cassette, you get what you pay. Cheap cassette won't last but are cheaper. There is not much that can go wrong in a 9-5 if they are treated right. K7, coolant by-pass valve, pcv system (if older than 2004), thermostat are the things to look for. Make sure you have good oil with the right specs and go for the nrg spark plugs.
Regarding the valve cover, I think its because on the left-hand side (4:12) you have the timing-gears that connects obviously to the crankshafts and they take up extra headroom in the valve cover.
Thanks for the video. I love my OG95 and even though I’ve had some issues with her, she’s never EVER left me stranded. It’s the only car I’ve ever owned that has been this utterly reliable. There is info on refurbishing the DIC. If you’re good with electrical things.
Auto Autopsy if you’re careful and good with electronic, it is possible from what I’ve read. Now me, I’ll never try it. Im too rough. It’s like hulk smash with electronics and me.
(I'm commenting on a lot of your videos now as I'm binge watching them) I got a knock-off DIC for 55$, ran it for about 6-7 months with a stage-1 tune, got cold feet and got a genuine one for 295$. I sold the knock-off online for 10$, haven't heard anything yet from the buyer.
I’d only ever buy a genuine DIC. I think that the reliability thing is relative - the DIC might be the most common failure (I’ve replaced mine), but that’s set against the rest of the car which (touch wood) is incredibly reliable!
Hi! Love this incredibly helpful video. Thinking of buying a 2003 95 aero estate. Has a couple things wrong. A. Has a code. P1452. (Check engine light) B. AC doesn’t get cold C. Funny smell under the driver side floor after driving. Can smell it when placing nose under the car. Maybe cat? She has 173k miles. Body and interior is great tho.
THE DIC had me on the side of the road twice. Once with a 9-3 and then again with my 9-5. Always had a spare in my trunk, faster than changing a tire. Look for cracks when you're changing your plugs.
Bullshit.use original DIC and it very very rarely stops working,it usually gives plenty of warnings before car won't run... Trust me, 27 years with saabs 😁 Also, when you buy ORIGINAL DIC there are different revisions on DIC units, for example for later 9-5's and Aero need to have latest revision. In original DIC thee revision is marked on same side where OEM plaque is. NEVER EVER use copy DIC units,they just dont work,even If they do work somewhat ok they still mess up trionic and these crappy DIC s last very short time compared to original OEM DIC unit...
We have 2001 YS3E 185 2.3t and recently, after an lovely evening of changing oil with my friend I was heading back home and the car just died out of the blue. It immediately started back up again and that issue did not happened again since, but I wonder if it is because of DIC. We used to have 9 3 from 2001 and when it started dying like that it happened several times during one trip, lake every few Km (we were on the freeway and had to get to the exit).
Could it make the car just not do anything when you go for ignition ie. Keys in. turns car dash on but then next turn wouldnt start.sometimes if i hold the key there's a delay then starter motor goes and starts the car.
Hey I have an OG95 and with slow starts there’s one thing I always do. Clean the mass airflow sensor, with CFC mass airflow cleaner. Then get some electrical contact cleaner spray and go through all your harness connections under the hood. Also while you’re at it, clean the connectors in the intake as well as the cobra pipe and air temp sensor on the charge pipe. I’ve done this in my car for over 3 years now and seems to make a difference. Hope it helps any one.
@@chicagoui9299 it starts as soon as it cranks. Its just lagy to get it to actually go. Ima check relay then if not under the the ignition barrel theres a component there gets greasyy
I owned a 9-5 Aero a few years ago and the DI failed. I agree don’t replace it with a cheap copy I did it caused a miss fire so ended up getting an original brand new part and problem solved. Because when the original failed I got stranded I did purchase a second hand one and keep it as a spare in the boot. Never used it apart from testing it when I got it but peace of mind and meant I was never going to be stuck. It’s really not that major an issue. I had the car for 3 years and took the car from 122K to 165k miles and it failed once, problem is in the uk they’re something you can get only from a specialist . The car was really reliable, fast (stage 1 remap) and comfortable. I always thought the OG 9-5 with 6 speeds and four wheel drive would have made a great car, brilliant.
Maybe you could do a video on the brake vacuum hose. It went bad on my 2004 Aero. Result: brakes performed like my 1985 Renault 4 😂 and I got a VERY rough idle. I replaced it for about 40€. Really easy. And yes, I have a spare DIC in the boot of the Aero 😂
@@Ro-12-21 Wasn't as much an issue for me since i live in Sweden, paid 1500 SEK ( roughly 150ish dollars ) for a new casette + like 20 dollars for NGK saab specific sparkplugs and it's a 10 min install so it wasn't too bad :)
My 2005 9-5 was throwing an occasional random misfire code during extended idling. Replace the DIC and still have the occasional problem. Keeping the old one as a spare now.
Hello. I am about to go check out a 2001 95 aero manual with 100k miles on the clock. I am new to these cars. Could you guys please tell me what should I look for and what questions to ask the current owner. Thank you!
Does anyone have any idea why, after replacing DIC and spark plugs with new OEM parts just 6 months ago, the exact same thing is happening again: rough idle, surging and misfiring?
My 2004 saab 9-5 2.3t aero turned off unexpectedly and it won't start, the check engine light code said the ignition cassette and I bought one for $450 at advance auto, is it the ignition cassette?
Can the dic cause the car to just die out have the same engies and it runs but after ten minutes it just dies out and answer will be helpful also already checked fule pressures and relays
Hey, wonder if you know what to do. I put in the reverse without pressing the clutch. Then a crack sound. I can still put the shift to reverse, but it doesn't grip so I can not drive reverse only forward on all gears.
I have a 2000 9-5 Aero. Got message from Autozone engine reader to replace DI. Will a bad DI cause extended higher revving when trying to full boost? Also, I’m not able to full boost. ☹️
Hey brother, do u think u could post a link to where u bought the dic oem part from or perhaps the part number thanks man. Love the content. Just joined the saab world with my 2004 9-5 wagon
Agree with majority of these comments. Esp. replacing plugs at the same time of the d.i.c. There is some sort of memory or something and by replacing the plugs, it resets it all, fresh. Sorry, can't explain it better. Also, the throttle bodies on these cars will also exhibit a similar issue or two of a faulty d.i.c. Stumbling, erratic idling, some backfiring, etc. I've replaced that once, and hopefully never again, they're fairly pricey. The other thing that should get replaced on these cars, is the MAF. Replace it every 60-80k. Once they get weirded out and send any bad signals to the ECU, it can literally cause engine failures, and the weakest point on the 9-5's are the pistons of course. Keeping the MAF, d.i.c, plugs, all filters and oil fresh, it's a no brainer. Haven't lost a piston yet and should have 50k ago. A solid running Saab is a great feeling!
Yes the car will run but the knock will be off. Not recommended. It will upset the car. Dont upset the car. Do not swap T5 for T7 or cheap out. Best advice.
Can you do a video on why when I pulled my battery in my 2002 9-5 Linear it requires me to need a Tech II for the radio code? I live in Las Vegas and there's like one guy in the valley with a Tech II and he knows he's the only one.
The title on this should state that it's for the 4 cylinder 9-5. The 9-5 SE with V6 engine is a different animal with TWO 3 coil DIC's that has its own issues. Also, dielectric grease should be used inside the coil towers so they don't stick to the spark plugs.
Failure as a Surprise is Due to Owner sloth ! One only needs to remove the thing semi annually for a visual check Look for cracks /splits on the black plastic undersides (first symptom) If there are cracks then remove the Black plastic affair and check for Oil leaks from the White coil cylinders and splits in the blue relay casing... IF those damages are evident then the Cassettes' days are numbered. Inspection prevents being stranded.. What's that worth to You ??
Auto Autopsy - I have a Saab-related question for you. I have the opportunity to purchase a low-mileage 2005 9-2X Linear. It's a two-owner car with a 5-speed manual, always garaged, rarely driven in inclement weather, and serviced by both Saab and Subaru specialists. The car looks good on paper but I'll obviously have it checked out beforehand (it has 61k miles). I've observed that you have rarely featured any 9-2X examples on the channel so I do have to ask you the following. What specifically should I look out for when purchasing a 9-2X, and do you have any good advice as to owning one? Also, have you yourself owned one before? Thanks.
Hey! Haven't ever owned one and haven't really featured one because they're not too common out here and are generally not very well kept. As a result, I'm not too knowledgable on it. I would advise joining some saab facebook groups and asking for some more information there, as there's a lot more people that could give you a better answer than me! Good luck!
Pro tip....if OEM ignition packs gk bad fairly frequently, buy two aftermarket and keep one in the trunk. If you get 5 years out of it you are as good as oem by the sounds of it. Sounds like oem may be no better than China.
If anyone is wondering about the cheap ones, I was completely broke at one point and had no choice and it did seem to work ok with no eml but yes always buy genuine parts. Maybe buy a cheap one as a trunk spare
Most off the knock-offs don't have any misfire or knock detection. They only fire the spark plug. So while it may seem to work, you could be doing serious damage to the engine.
tbh, I think it is fair to generalize. it's well known that the aftermarket/cheap alternative for parts like DICs rarely work. clearly you have gotten lucky! lol
The valve cover is shaped that way because of the cams. It's taller in the front to clear the cam sprokets, and shorter near the back because the cams are a lower profile.
Ignition cassettes are best to be stored with the coilpacks down. I read once that they contain oil for cooling and by stoing upside down there is a risk it may end up in a place it shouldn't be.
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It's because the timing sprockets (and rest of the timing bits) are on that side.
Precisely. It’s a matter of Saab geometry 😂
genius
Spark plugs contribute a lot to coil pack failures. If you keep going too long on old plugs, the gap will become too big on them, hence a larger voltage is needed to actually make it spark. If the voltage goes too high, the coilpack dies.
good point!
I have the 9-5 Aero and mine is doing this AGAIN. I just had them replaced and the spark plugs replaced less than 7 months ago. But I think the place I took it to were idiots . But they were the only garage in town.
From my experience, regarding the cassette, you get what you pay. Cheap cassette won't last but are cheaper. There is not much that can go wrong in a 9-5 if they are treated right. K7, coolant by-pass valve, pcv system (if older than 2004), thermostat are the things to look for. Make sure you have good oil with the right specs and go for the nrg spark plugs.
yep!
I bought an oem cassette a few months I bought my 2002 9-5 SW a few years ago. Never had a problem after that.
nice
Regarding the valve cover, I think its because on the left-hand side (4:12) you have the timing-gears that connects obviously to the crankshafts and they take up extra headroom in the valve cover.
thank you!
Thanks for the video. I love my OG95 and even though I’ve had some issues with her, she’s never EVER left me stranded. It’s the only car I’ve ever owned that has been this utterly reliable.
There is info on refurbishing the DIC. If you’re good with electrical things.
nice!! good to know you can refurb them, i never knew
Auto Autopsy if you’re careful and good with electronic, it is possible from what I’ve read. Now me, I’ll never try it. Im too rough. It’s like hulk smash with electronics and me.
@@chicagoui9299 would you mind linking it please?
@@jockwasher let me look that back up. I think I found that in saabscene or Saabcentral
9-5 is a beast nice colour great
👍
thanks!
The valve cover is higher on the passenger side because that is where the cam sprockets and chain are. The DIC just fits the angle of the cover.
yep, thanks!
(I'm commenting on a lot of your videos now as I'm binge watching them)
I got a knock-off DIC for 55$, ran it for about 6-7 months with a stage-1 tune, got cold feet and got a genuine one for 295$. I sold the knock-off online for 10$, haven't heard anything yet from the buyer.
hope you are enjoying the binge! I am surprised to hear that it lasted that long
I’d only ever buy a genuine DIC.
I think that the reliability thing is relative - the DIC might be the most common failure (I’ve replaced mine), but that’s set against the rest of the car which (touch wood) is incredibly reliable!
Well said - always go OEM!
Hi! Love this incredibly helpful video. Thinking of buying a 2003 95 aero estate.
Has a couple things wrong.
A. Has a code. P1452. (Check engine light)
B. AC doesn’t get cold
C. Funny smell under the driver side floor after driving. Can smell it when placing nose under the car. Maybe cat?
She has 173k miles. Body and interior is great tho.
THE DIC had me on the side of the road twice. Once with a 9-3 and then again with my 9-5. Always had a spare in my trunk, faster than changing a tire. Look for cracks when you're changing your plugs.
good tips!!
Bullshit.use original DIC and it very very rarely stops working,it usually gives plenty of warnings before car won't run...
Trust me, 27 years with saabs 😁
Also, when you buy ORIGINAL DIC there are different revisions on DIC units, for example for later 9-5's and Aero need to have latest revision.
In original DIC thee revision is marked on same side where OEM plaque is.
NEVER EVER use copy DIC units,they just dont work,even If they do work somewhat ok they still mess up trionic and these crappy DIC s last very short time compared to original OEM DIC unit...
We have 2001 YS3E 185 2.3t and recently, after an lovely evening of changing oil with my friend I was heading back home and the car just died out of the blue. It immediately started back up again and that issue did not happened again since, but I wonder if it is because of DIC. We used to have 9 3 from 2001 and when it started dying like that it happened several times during one trip, lake every few Km (we were on the freeway and had to get to the exit).
There’s a chance the CPS could be the cause as well
Hi what is the cps?
@@AutoAutopsy what is CPS bro?
Could it make the car just not do anything when you go for ignition ie. Keys in. turns car dash on but then next turn wouldnt start.sometimes if i hold the key there's a delay then starter motor goes and starts the car.
Hey I have an OG95 and with slow starts there’s one thing I always do. Clean the mass airflow sensor, with CFC mass airflow cleaner. Then get some electrical contact cleaner spray and go through all your harness connections under the hood. Also while you’re at it, clean the connectors in the intake as well as the cobra pipe and air temp sensor on the charge pipe. I’ve done this in my car for over 3 years now and seems to make a difference. Hope it helps any one.
@@chicagoui9299 it starts as soon as it cranks. Its just lagy to get it to actually go. Ima check relay then if not under the the ignition barrel theres a component there gets greasyy
good tips and good luck with your issue. if that doesn't work, i would advise asking in a facebook group :)
@@AutoAutopsy fixed starter motor at 60k miles
I owned a 9-5 Aero a few years ago and the DI failed. I agree don’t replace it with a cheap copy I did it caused a miss fire so ended up getting an original brand new part and problem solved. Because when the original failed I got stranded I did purchase a second hand one and keep it as a spare in the boot. Never used it apart from testing it when I got it but peace of mind and meant I was never going to be stuck. It’s really not that major an issue. I had the car for 3 years and took the car from 122K to 165k miles and it failed once, problem is in the uk they’re something you can get only from a specialist . The car was really reliable, fast (stage 1 remap) and comfortable. I always thought the OG 9-5 with 6 speeds and four wheel drive would have made a great car, brilliant.
yeah, a six speed like the 9-3 had would've been cool!
Maybe you could do a video on the brake vacuum hose. It went bad on my 2004 Aero. Result: brakes performed like my 1985 Renault 4 😂 and I got a VERY rough idle. I replaced it for about 40€. Really easy.
And yes, I have a spare DIC in the boot of the Aero 😂
Just a thought but would modifying the alloy housing on the DI unit IE filling it with vent holes to let the latent heat out help extend the life!
that might help, assuming you are careful with where you drill
Owned my Saab 9-5 for about 8 months now, the day after i bought it i got a check engine light and had to replace my ignition casette.
Exact same story for me. Sketchy owners clearing codes and selling cars. The NGK on Rock Auto is SEM OEM made in Sweden
@@Ro-12-21 Wasn't as much an issue for me since i live in Sweden, paid 1500 SEK ( roughly 150ish dollars ) for a new casette + like 20 dollars for NGK saab specific sparkplugs and it's a 10 min install so it wasn't too bad :)
rip :/
My 2005 9-5 was throwing an occasional random misfire code during extended idling. Replace the DIC and still have the occasional problem. Keeping the old one as a spare now.
could be a vacuum leak somewhere! those tend to break with age
@@AutoAutopsy Yes that can cause that, but I had already replaced all of the vacuum lines.
My DI Cassette pulled up an engine check light at 70k miles. I replaced it at 190k miles 😂
OOF
Same line pulled a light at about 180,000 replaced finally with OEM at 217,000 miles
Starter relay from bosch is the starter relay. Is one cheap fix for intermitten starts
👍🏼
Wondering if you had a video on how to adjust the shift linkage on the 9-5
I do not! 😬
@@AutoAutopsy thanks anyways
Hello. I am about to go check out a 2001 95 aero manual with 100k miles on the clock. I am new to these cars. Could you guys please tell me what should I look for and what questions to ask the current owner. Thank you!
Does anyone have any idea why, after replacing DIC and spark plugs with new OEM parts just 6 months ago, the exact same thing is happening again: rough idle, surging and misfiring?
My 2004 saab 9-5 2.3t aero turned off unexpectedly and it won't start, the check engine light code said the ignition cassette and I bought one for $450 at advance auto, is it the ignition cassette?
Can you address the traction control failure issue?
you'd probably want to start by taking a tech2 to the car
Can the dic cause the car to just die out have the same engies and it runs but after ten minutes it just dies out and answer will be helpful also already checked fule pressures and relays
could be; could also be an alternator or a number of other parts
An underperforming alternator or failing battery could cause coil failure on these.
good to know
thanks for the video would love to see one on how to replace the rear hatch supports on a 2000 9-5
unfortunately i don't have a wagon to do that on but www.saabwisonline.com probably has instructions
Hey, wonder if you know what to do. I put in the reverse without pressing the clutch. Then a crack sound. I can still put the shift to reverse, but it doesn't grip so I can not drive reverse only forward on all gears.
why aren't you using the clutch? maybe the slave or master cylinder or clutch; idk I wouldn't know
Not a joke. I have a spare DIC in both my 9-5s and crank sensors. Both have left me stranded on the side of the road with zero indications of a fault.
smart
I have a 2000 9-5 Aero. Got message from Autozone engine reader to replace DI. Will a bad DI cause extended higher revving when trying to full boost? Also, I’m not able to full boost. ☹️
Yes it definitely could. Only get an OEM replacement :)
Is there any aftermarket Bluetooth device available online to use for a Saab 9-5 ? Let me know link if possible please
not really; just the old cigarette lighter adapter deal, unless you do an aftermarket head unit
Hey brother, do u think u could post a link to where u bought the dic oem part from or perhaps the part number thanks man. Love the content. Just joined the saab world with my 2004 9-5 wagon
thanks. if you're in the US, esaabparts is the place to go
Agree with majority of these comments. Esp. replacing plugs at the same time of the d.i.c. There is some sort of memory or something and by replacing the plugs, it resets it all, fresh. Sorry, can't explain it better. Also, the throttle bodies on these cars will also exhibit a similar issue or two of a faulty d.i.c. Stumbling, erratic idling, some backfiring, etc. I've replaced that once, and hopefully never again, they're fairly pricey. The other thing that should get replaced on these cars, is the MAF. Replace it every 60-80k. Once they get weirded out and send any bad signals to the ECU, it can literally cause engine failures, and the weakest point on the 9-5's are the pistons of course. Keeping the MAF, d.i.c, plugs, all filters and oil fresh, it's a no brainer. Haven't lost a piston yet and should have 50k ago. A solid running Saab is a great feeling!
nice! great tips, thanks
It's an issue on the SAAB 9-3's as well, we've gone through 4 DIC's of them so far and we do keep a spare in the trunk
rip :/ so i've heard...
@@AutoAutopsy Glad we did not convert our 900SPG to use it, it's still using the individual spark plugs and single distributor
is it possible to use the black DI Trionic 7 box for the Trionic T5.5 for example, in case you dont get a new one?
No! It may start and run but the electrical properties are completely different between them.
Yes the car will run but the knock will be off. Not recommended. It will upset the car. Dont upset the car. Do not swap T5 for T7 or cheap out. Best advice.
^
So I'm having misfires under hard acceleration(normal driving to me lol) should I be looking at replacing this? Just got the car.
do plugs first, this after
Can you do a video on why when I pulled my battery in my 2002 9-5 Linear it requires me to need a Tech II for the radio code? I live in Las Vegas and there's like one guy in the valley with a Tech II and he knows he's the only one.
I have a 2003 Linear. I've had the battery completely drain, recharged it, and eventually replaced it. Never needed a code for the radio.
i'm really not sure, sorry. i would advise asking in a facebook group
The title on this should state that it's for the 4 cylinder 9-5. The 9-5 SE with V6 engine is a different animal with TWO 3 coil DIC's that has its own issues. Also, dielectric grease should be used inside the coil towers so they don't stick to the spark plugs.
Very true. The V6 9-5 is...something
I have a 2001 saab 9-3 turbo.
It starts good, idle great but when I put it into gear it stalls out. What would you suggest I check or change?
maybe the CPS, but id recommend posting on facebook groups for some better help
Failure as a Surprise is Due to Owner sloth !
One only needs to remove the thing semi annually for a visual check Look for cracks /splits on the black plastic undersides (first symptom) If there are cracks then remove the Black plastic affair and check for Oil leaks from the White coil cylinders and splits in the blue relay casing... IF those damages are evident then the Cassettes' days are numbered.
Inspection prevents being stranded.. What's that worth to You ??
Always carry a spare DIC…
Hey i do have a saab 95 2.0t krank no start but back fire's know this problem
Auto Autopsy - I have a Saab-related question for you. I have the opportunity to purchase a low-mileage 2005 9-2X Linear. It's a two-owner car with a 5-speed manual, always garaged, rarely driven in inclement weather, and serviced by both Saab and Subaru specialists. The car looks good on paper but I'll obviously have it checked out beforehand (it has 61k miles). I've observed that you have rarely featured any 9-2X examples on the channel so I do have to ask you the following. What specifically should I look out for when purchasing a 9-2X, and do you have any good advice as to owning one? Also, have you yourself owned one before? Thanks.
Hey! Haven't ever owned one and haven't really featured one because they're not too common out here and are generally not very well kept. As a result, I'm not too knowledgable on it. I would advise joining some saab facebook groups and asking for some more information there, as there's a lot more people that could give you a better answer than me! Good luck!
What is the most reliable 9-5 engine and year?
probably mid 2000's b235
@@AutoAutopsy thanks
I want your opinion about the 2007 Saab 9-3 2.0T 60th Anyversary
I've heard good thing about them; upgraded interior, old body style with updated interior
Pro tip....if OEM ignition packs gk bad fairly frequently, buy two aftermarket and keep one in the trunk. If you get 5 years out of it you are as good as oem by the sounds of it. Sounds like oem may be no better than China.
Only buy OEM 😅
Noob question here but is the 2006 93 and 95
Aero GM? Or when did GM take over making 95’s
They're all partially GM.
If anyone is wondering about the cheap ones, I was completely broke at one point and had no choice and it did seem to work ok with no eml but yes always buy genuine parts. Maybe buy a cheap one as a trunk spare
Most off the knock-offs don't have any misfire or knock detection. They only fire the spark plug. So while it may seem to work, you could be doing serious damage to the engine.
@@znorc yes which is why I said buy genuine, but just letting people know they do work
important point! ^
RockAuto is the cheapest I've found for a OEM NGK coilpack, around $150 I believe.
That's not OEM if you're referring to DICs!
You can't generalize. I have had an aftermarket one in my car for years. I didn't experience any errors.
tbh, I think it is fair to generalize. it's well known that the aftermarket/cheap alternative for parts like DICs rarely work. clearly you have gotten lucky! lol
@@AutoAutopsy Hitachi 5-year warranty! Not Chinese.
Yes, please more 9-5 content
another 9-5 video tomorrow :)
Can you imagine changing all 5 coil packs individually?
This post was made by the Volvo 5-cylinder gang.
lmao
The engine is a slant engine meaning a tilted on angle.
huh?
@@AutoAutopsy open the bonnet look at the engine eye level from infront of the car and its on a tilt the engine
No it's not. lmao
0:19 actually 97-09
98-10 if we're talking model years.
@@znorc true.
oof
Yes that piece brokens in every 9-5.. and yes, the car can die in the middle of the road becuse of this part.
:((
Coil Pack Cost Me 645 Each I Had Two So 1290 in Parts
The valve cover is shaped that way because of the cams. It's taller in the front to clear the cam sprokets, and shorter near the back because the cams are a lower profile.
thanks for the explanation!
still cheaper than the 93s 110 plus for all for of the coils
yeah 4 OEM B207 coils will run you almost $400
And.....let the DIC jokes begin.....
😂😂😂
hehe
Cam sprockets. 😁
What about them..?
@@AutoAutopsy thats why its deeper 😁
It's ok 9-5, it's perfectly natural for your Di-C to have performance issues as you get older (this joke is 100% overdone and i just don't care lol
rip
Ignition cassettes are best to be stored with the coilpacks down. I read once that they contain oil for cooling and by stoing upside down there is a risk it may end up in a place it shouldn't be.
That has been proven to be false and doesn't matter.
@@FPSIceraven That's good to know.
good to know ^
You want to buy my Saab? Sadly it seems like everything is going wrong with it
that's not the best way to start a for sale ad haha. im not in the market, but thanks. contact @savingsaabs on instagram. he might be interested
Way off topic compliment : You have nice hands...................
lol thanks