Just completed seal and o-ring replacement.(~3 hours while also watching the Mets win!!!) Comments: 1)Used a Milwaukee M28 impact and a 1-1/16” impact socket.(Borrowed from work) 2)Borrowed a 2ft set of snap ring players from work. the gap between holes is ~ 1-1/2” 3)Used small hook and a nylon hammer to remove the seal housing 4) O-ring came out in pieces 5) Old seal was tapped out using two blocks of wood 6) I put new seal in using the old seal. Would probably be better to use piece of wood, so you can see that the seal is going in evenly. The old seal can be used upside down to finish getting the seal to seat completely. 7) Aligning the arrows forces you to fit the anti-rotation pin into the hole in the seal housing. 8) Reinstalling the o-ring took two people. Wife held snapring in place with a 3ft piece of 1x2 wood. Then popped snap ring in. Note snap ring taper faces out. 9) The pulley goes back on when key is aligned with key way (Sorry for that info) 10) Never put a serpentine belt back on before. Wife held flashlight and pulled back on tensioner(Using 18” of 1/2” extensions), while I used an allen wrench duct taped to a nut driver to hook belt and get back on the top pulley. 11) Now I need to clean up all the oil on the driveway!!!
I'm going to pin this comment if you don't mind, as I can relate to every step. Especially flipping the old seal upside down to hammer the new one in. Wood will work, but I've always just done it that way to get one last use outta the old seal before it's trash. And I definitely felt Step #11 🤣 Cheers to a job well done sir! Thank you for adding your comment so that others may better tackle this job in the future, as that was the whole point of the video!!
How did you take the housing off with a hook and hammer? I couldn't get the housing off! Used a seal puller and just popped the seal out and couldn't get the housing off. Tried to gently hammer with a mallet. Still no go.
Very good vid. Clear and concise. Just got a 2001 93 convertible as a project and little money for the local shop. Will use this video and any others you have. Thanks again and keep em’ coming.
Great video - and good call on the O-Ring, I didn't put that in my shopping cart, saved me time! Also appreciate the diagram/torque spec screen at the end.
In a 9-5 and 9-3 with a manual transmission you can lock the flywheel with a BGS 1771 (~8$) locking tool connected to the middle opening of the gearbox (accessible after removing the cover plate) via a M10 bolt and a couple of washers. Works great!
Great video , anyone fixing up one of these older turbo cars will more than likely need to do this . Especially after getting the vehicle up to full potential ( full boost ) the extra pressure put on these old seals will cause them to go .
Just had my new engine installed after my first one broke down, (massive rod throw thru engine block and oil-pan, so we used the old oil-pump and now the new engine have no oil-pressure, i fear dirt and junk so this video was exactly what i needed
I just tried to do this tonight on my 9 5 and could not get the metal housing off! Used a seal tool and it only took off the orange seal. Did not try the screwdriver like you did. I swapped the orange seal by slowly hammering. Put everything back but after test drive I think the oring is leaking. I thought it was so tight that the o ring must be ok...but slight leak still. So need to do it again. I hope 2nd time works.
Will be doing mine.ive just put new belt on and tensioner and idler pulley and alternator .knew I should of done it then.lol good video.normally them pulleys are stuck on after you undo the bolt.did you have any bother
Putting the bolt back on: This is from a post at saabcentral.com from ten years ago. "You need to take your strap wrench and slide it over the outer portion of the crankshaft pulley and let it rest against the lower passenger's side control arm. Notice how the teeth are gripping the rubber on the pulley? This is because when you tighten the bolt (to the left), you want the strap wrench to counter act your force and hold the pulley still in place. Using the torque wrench, tighten the bolt to 130 ft./lb." So in theory you can use a strap wrench to hold the pully in place as you torque the bolt. I'm going to try this method in the next couple days. If it doesn't work I'll update this post.
Great video. Your o-ring was probably the culprit. It was hard / brittle. Is the oil pump pressure relief built into the timing cover or the block? Thanks,
It's built into the oil filter housing, that is if you're referring to the relief valve that opens allowing oil to flow through the intercooler once the oil reaches a certain temperature
Hi! I have the same car and the video helped me a lot! Just a little question! Where did you find the last pic that you posted which contains the torqur spec? I've been searching badly for a saab factory torque specs manual and I just can't find it!
I refer to Saab's WIS for all my torque specs. Any that I reference, including that picture at the end, were pulled straight from WIS (Workshop Information System)
Great Saab video, I'm planning on doing this job my self and wondering if in fact the timing cover gasket needs to be replaced as well? My mechanic said they would need to replace the timing cover gasket due to oil leaking and when they perform this they will replace the crankshaft seal and "O" ring oil housing. I'm wondering if i really need to replace the timing cover gasket, Is there a good way to determine this? thanks very much!
Thanks Brian! You can see much oil is all over the timing cover in this video, the pulley has a tendency to throw oil as it spins when the seal is bad. I'd start there, clean the oil off the timing cover, and recheck after you've driven with the new seal for awhile. There's not a timing cover gasket, per say, it's all sealed with anaerobic sealant (same stuff as oil pan). They can leak, but you have to remove the timing cover and reseal the whole thing which is a chore. Some mechanics recommend pulling out the whole engine to do it! Me I'd start small with this seal and work up to the bigger job, if its even needed.
Some shops also remove the oil pan, as the passenger side of the pan bolts up into the timing cover. They could get away with just undoing those few (2 or 4, cant remember without looking at it) bolts, but I'm pretty sure WIS says to remove the pan. Again I'd have to check. Either way, I hope you don't have to seal the cover and its just the crank seal. Best of luck!
@@saabross3171 so by using the impact to tighten the bolt does that mean you are not torquing to spec? Or did you have a way to hold the flywheel to torque it?
Does this apply to the 3.0t v6 engine as well? Cuz I can’t seem to find the seal ring for the oil pump housing, only the front seal. Any links for this part? Thanks in advance.
There's only the seal on the 3.0t, no ring bc the oil pump housing is totally different. See part #2 in this diagram: www.esaabparts.com/viewparts.php?searchpart=1§ion=311832152
Hey ross can i just take the old belt and use vice pliers to hold the flywheel as i take the 27mm bolt off so the shaft wont move?? Im thinkin thats an idea also for the people without an air/impact gun
Not sure what you mean by using the belt, but if it works it works! Any ideas for those without an impact are appreciated. I've also heard of using a floor jack or wedge pry par to lightly hold the flywheel in place, especially for torque-ing the bolt back on
I wouldn't worry. All you did was turn the pistons' positions etc. You didn't mess up the timing, if that's what you're worried about. You just slightly, manually turned the entire operation of what the engine does normally, if that makes sense.
Different car. The oil pump on your Saab is a little harder to access than the OG9-3, and idk if there even is an outter o-ring as your pump cover is totally different. I'd look up Saab WIS Online to find the correct procedure for your car
Did you notice increased engine vibration on idle while these seales were leaky. My hypothesis is that the leaking oil gets smeared on serpentine belt and causes it slip occasionally giving different load on engine. I am wondering if this is a case.
Oh yeah, had one slip the belt 3x before we addressed all the leaks, this main seal here being the worst culprit. Lots of oil can be lost and it'll get all over the belt right at the crank pulley/ harmonic balancer. Other leaks to look for are the timing tensioner seals, as they're poised to leak onto the belt as well
How did you torque down the crankshaft pulley bolt. I prefer to use a torque wrench instead of a impact but the engine keeps spinning on me as I torque it down.
I use an impact until it starts spinning the crank incrementally. Not exact, but never fails. If you use a manual torque wrench to get the 130 you gotta have something to hold or counteract the flywheel in place, like someone with a large screwdriver or the "tool" mentioned. Just gotta remove the 2 10 or 11mm bolts on the trans plate to access the flywheel gear teeth used by the starter motor
@@a.z.3214 Great idea!! I'll highlight this comment to help others. Sounds like it'd only work though for those who have a manual trans. The tool I mentioned in the video is for us with automatics
Yo bud, have you ever done this job on a 9-5? I have a 2000 9-5 Aero and need to this job. The vid I saw from Saabautosy show them removing the top engine mount bracket? 🤔. Makes no sense to me why they did this?
Removing the bracket just helps to see the belt area. Yep I have 2 y2k 9-5 Aeros and have done it to both, but I should note I deleted the idler pulley on both per Saab's TSB. If your's still has the belt looped on the idler, you'll def want to remove the top bracket to get to it. Otherwise process is the same as in the video, but for my 9-5s I don't remove the top bracket and instead just pull the belt off the crank pully only, move that one loop out of the way and slowly release the tension. Helps to have a second person hold the tensioner (same 1/2in drive breaker bar) up top while you undo the crank pully loop underneath, but can also be done by yourself. If you do it right the belt will stay sitting on the rest of the pulleys, so all you have to do is slip the crank loop back on when finished and you're good.
@@saabross3171 nice! 😎 thanks for confirming. Ps, no need to lock in the flywheel with anything when tightening back the 27mm with the torque gun, right? Regardless whether the transmission is auto or Manual? I also plan on doing it to my 2002 9-3 SE Manual..thanks again for the cool videos man!
@@eacbank7977 no, and if you did want to use the flywheel locking tool good luck finding one. A good impact, and enough ugga-duggas to start spinning the crank is all I use. Ps the crank spins righty tighty while engines running, so it's not going anywhere
Hmm, no it's just lefty loosey. The engine spins clockwise towards the tightening direction when it's running. By design, I imagine Saab didn't want it spinning towards loosening direction so yes, the bolt unscrews as seen in the video just like any other bolt. Nothing fancy!
I often recording with one hand while using the other. It took two hands to wiggle & begin sliding it off, that's why only the final bit is in the video. I've yet to need a puller for these, slides right out!
Saab Ross yep, mines well stuck. Tried slight and not so slight taps with hammer, prying with pry bar. Off to get pulley tool tomorrow. This is probably due to harsh climate and lack of panel cover lol
I mean you could just pull the main Elring seal out with that tool, but if I'm taking the crank pulley off I just prefer to do them both (the seal & housing o-ring)
With a 120ft-lb torque stick and a couple extra ugga-duggas ;-) You'll know once the crank starts turning, with an impact gun that is. Using a manual torque wrench would be hard without locking the flywheel in place (see special tool mentioned in video). Torque sticks on the other hand are readily available on Amazon
Oh, I guess you are in a foreign country, my Saab has the drivers wheel on the right side, hence the passenger's side is the left side of the car, or the right side if you are standing in front of the car looking back at it.
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
Just completed seal and o-ring replacement.(~3 hours while also watching the Mets win!!!)
Comments: 1)Used a Milwaukee M28 impact and a 1-1/16” impact socket.(Borrowed from work)
2)Borrowed a 2ft set of snap ring players from work. the gap between holes is ~ 1-1/2”
3)Used small hook and a nylon hammer to remove the seal housing
4) O-ring came out in pieces
5) Old seal was tapped out using two blocks of wood
6) I put new seal in using the old seal. Would probably be better to use piece of wood, so you can see that the seal is going in evenly. The old seal can be used upside down to finish getting the seal to seat completely.
7) Aligning the arrows forces you to fit the anti-rotation pin into the hole in the seal housing.
8) Reinstalling the o-ring took two people. Wife held snapring in place with a 3ft piece of 1x2 wood. Then popped snap ring in. Note snap ring taper faces out.
9) The pulley goes back on when key is aligned with key way (Sorry for that info)
10) Never put a serpentine belt back on before. Wife held flashlight and pulled back on tensioner(Using 18” of 1/2” extensions), while I used an allen wrench duct taped to a nut driver to hook belt and get back on the top pulley.
11) Now I need to clean up all the oil on the driveway!!!
I'm going to pin this comment if you don't mind, as I can relate to every step. Especially flipping the old seal upside down to hammer the new one in. Wood will work, but I've always just done it that way to get one last use outta the old seal before it's trash. And I definitely felt Step #11 🤣
Cheers to a job well done sir! Thank you for adding your comment so that others may better tackle this job in the future, as that was the whole point of the video!!
How did you take the housing off with a hook and hammer? I couldn't get the housing off! Used a seal puller and just popped the seal out and couldn't get the housing off. Tried to gently hammer with a mallet. Still no go.
Very good vid. Clear and concise. Just got a 2001 93 convertible as a project and little money for the local shop. Will use this video and any others you have. Thanks again and keep em’ coming.
Wow thanks Richard, I'll never turn down an opportunity to help & share when I can!
Excellent video, very thorough and explained, will save this video for the oil seal replacement on my engine
Great video - and good call on the O-Ring, I didn't put that in my shopping cart, saved me time! Also appreciate the diagram/torque spec screen at the end.
Great shots of the seating of the seal! 👍👍
Nice, straight forward video. I just ordered the seal and the o ring.
Great timing, I happened to throw the seal in my Eeuro cart when I bought suspension parts, arrives tomorrow. Thanks for taking the time to share!
Great video, gonna do this fix myself. Thanks so much for covering as much as possible!
In a 9-5 and 9-3 with a manual transmission you can lock the flywheel with a BGS 1771 (~8$) locking tool connected to the middle opening of the gearbox (accessible after removing the cover plate) via a M10 bolt and a couple of washers. Works great!
AWESOME (one of the very best) video on this job.
Great video , anyone fixing up one of these older turbo cars will more than likely need to do this . Especially after getting the vehicle up to full potential ( full boost ) the extra pressure put on these old seals will cause them to go .
I agree Jason, and it's a surprisingly short and straightforward job for anyone still fixing these babies up!
Just had my new engine installed after my first one broke down, (massive rod throw thru engine block and oil-pan, so we used the old oil-pump and now the new engine have no oil-pressure, i fear dirt and junk so this video was exactly what i needed
Sweet saved me about 1000.00 thanks again for the infomative video.
Great video, mine started leaking this week @ 267k miles
Not sure how you managed to take that damper off by hand. Mine is being a pain to take off! Great video. Thanks for posting.
I just tried to do this tonight on my 9 5 and could not get the metal housing off! Used a seal tool and it only took off the orange seal. Did not try the screwdriver like you did. I swapped the orange seal by slowly hammering. Put everything back but after test drive I think the oring is leaking. I thought it was so tight that the o ring must be ok...but slight leak still. So need to do it again. I hope 2nd time works.
Thanks, still very helpful in 2020
Very thorough video thanks a million ross !!!
Thanks for sharing, I will work on the 01 Viggen .
A Viggen!? Very nice!
This was awesome Sparky
Useful and I am laughing that it looks like this repair has already been done based on that main bolt.
I've had this Saab since 2008 and it was the first time this jobs been done, to my knowledge
As always thanks for the info
Will be doing mine.ive just put new belt on and tensioner and idler pulley and alternator .knew I should of done it then.lol good video.normally them pulleys are stuck on after you undo the bolt.did you have any bother
Putting the bolt back on: This is from a post at saabcentral.com from ten years ago.
"You need to take your strap wrench and slide it over the outer portion of the crankshaft pulley and let it rest against the lower passenger's side control arm. Notice how the teeth are gripping the rubber on the pulley? This is because when you tighten the bolt (to the left), you want the strap wrench to counter act your force and hold the pulley still in place. Using the torque wrench, tighten the bolt to 130 ft./lb."
So in theory you can use a strap wrench to hold the pully in place as you torque the bolt. I'm going to try this method in the next couple days. If it doesn't work I'll update this post.
I miss the old SaabCentral days haha, how'd the procedure go? It's a pretty neat, simple idea that I can totally see working.
@@saabross3171 seriously! That redesign totally ruined it.
@@misterhulk Can't say I've logged into SaabCentral to see any re-design. Too many popups & ads on there nowadays
I forgot one comment. Clean the deposits off of the inside, seal area, off the pulley center shaft.
Very handy video thanks!
Very good video , thanks man!
Great video. Your o-ring was probably the culprit. It was hard / brittle. Is the oil pump pressure relief built into the timing cover or the block? Thanks,
It's built into the oil filter housing, that is if you're referring to the relief valve that opens allowing oil to flow through the intercooler once the oil reaches a certain temperature
Good video. Where can one get these seals and what the names?
Hi! I have the same car and the video helped me a lot! Just a little question! Where did you find the last pic that you posted which contains the torqur spec? I've been searching badly for a saab factory torque specs manual and I just can't find it!
I refer to Saab's WIS for all my torque specs. Any that I reference, including that picture at the end, were pulled straight from WIS (Workshop Information System)
Glad the video helped!!
@@saabross3171 Thank you !
Thier you go you finally got to the point 👏 👍 👌 🙌 😂 🙄 👏
See? Just gotta be patient
❤❤❤❤❤可以多拍一些引擎維修的影片👍
Great Saab video, I'm planning on doing this job my self and wondering if in fact the timing cover gasket needs to be replaced as well? My mechanic said they would need to replace the timing cover gasket due to oil leaking and when they perform this they will replace the crankshaft seal and "O" ring oil housing. I'm wondering if i really need to replace the timing cover gasket, Is there a good way to determine this?
thanks very much!
Thanks Brian! You can see much oil is all over the timing cover in this video, the pulley has a tendency to throw oil as it spins when the seal is bad. I'd start there, clean the oil off the timing cover, and recheck after you've driven with the new seal for awhile. There's not a timing cover gasket, per say, it's all sealed with anaerobic sealant (same stuff as oil pan). They can leak, but you have to remove the timing cover and reseal the whole thing which is a chore. Some mechanics recommend pulling out the whole engine to do it! Me I'd start small with this seal and work up to the bigger job, if its even needed.
Some shops also remove the oil pan, as the passenger side of the pan bolts up into the timing cover. They could get away with just undoing those few (2 or 4, cant remember without looking at it) bolts, but I'm pretty sure WIS says to remove the pan. Again I'd have to check. Either way, I hope you don't have to seal the cover and its just the crank seal. Best of luck!
Meaning serpentine belt with vise grip pliers to hold it in place when torqing bolt on or breaking it loose
With that method would you need one person holding vise grips and one torquing? Or just grip it and it's ready to go?
Great video
did you end up having to lock the flywheel to properly torque it on? do you have any suggestions on how best to do this?
Nope, I just use the impact until the crank first starts to spin.
@@saabross3171 so by using the impact to tighten the bolt does that mean you are not torquing to spec? Or did you have a way to hold the flywheel to torque it?
@@denzellima3079 Again no, and no. Also the pulley spins to the righty tighty when engine is running; it ain't coming off.
Does this apply to the 3.0t v6 engine as well? Cuz I can’t seem to find the seal ring for the oil pump housing, only the front seal. Any links for this part? Thanks in advance.
There's only the seal on the 3.0t, no ring bc the oil pump housing is totally different. See part #2 in this diagram:
www.esaabparts.com/viewparts.php?searchpart=1§ion=311832152
@@saabross3171 thanks for the info i apriciated
Hey ross can i just take the old belt and use vice pliers to hold the flywheel as i take the 27mm bolt off so the shaft wont move?? Im thinkin thats an idea also for the people without an air/impact gun
Not sure what you mean by using the belt, but if it works it works! Any ideas for those without an impact are appreciated. I've also heard of using a floor jack or wedge pry par to lightly hold the flywheel in place, especially for torque-ing the bolt back on
Hello Ross, do I have to worry if I turned the crankshaft as I was trying to remove it? Will the Saab readjust?
I wouldn't worry. All you did was turn the pistons' positions etc. You didn't mess up the timing, if that's what you're worried about. You just slightly, manually turned the entire operation of what the engine does normally, if that makes sense.
Maybe someone knows alterantive for o-ring or it's specs. only saabparts have, but no shipping to where i live....
Hi! Good video! Maybe you know measures of O ring seal?
Just purchased a 94 900s that has a small leak. I think this is the issue
I’m having issues finding the O-ring. I have a 2008 Saab 9-3 2.0t sports combi , I found the seal but no o-ring. Any suggestions?
Would the one you have work , are they the same size ?
Different car. The oil pump on your Saab is a little harder to access than the OG9-3, and idk if there even is an outter o-ring as your pump cover is totally different. I'd look up Saab WIS Online to find the correct procedure for your car
Did you notice increased engine vibration on idle while these seales were leaky. My hypothesis is that the leaking oil gets smeared on serpentine belt and causes it slip occasionally giving different load on engine. I am wondering if this is a case.
Oh yeah, had one slip the belt 3x before we addressed all the leaks, this main seal here being the worst culprit. Lots of oil can be lost and it'll get all over the belt right at the crank pulley/ harmonic balancer.
Other leaks to look for are the timing tensioner seals, as they're poised to leak onto the belt as well
Timing Tensioner Leak video here:
ruclips.net/video/evREFB_nXzs/видео.html
I have a similar leak on a 2006 2.0T is it a similar process for that?
Спасибо.
How did you torque down the crankshaft pulley bolt. I prefer to use a torque wrench instead of a impact but the engine keeps spinning on me as I torque it down.
I use an impact until it starts spinning the crank incrementally. Not exact, but never fails. If you use a manual torque wrench to get the 130 you gotta have something to hold or counteract the flywheel in place, like someone with a large screwdriver or the "tool" mentioned. Just gotta remove the 2 10 or 11mm bolts on the trans plate to access the flywheel gear teeth used by the starter motor
Have someone in the car pushing hard on the brakes and select 4th gear. Works perfectly and won't harm your gearbox
@@a.z.3214 Great idea!! I'll highlight this comment to help others. Sounds like it'd only work though for those who have a manual trans. The tool I mentioned in the video is for us with automatics
Is this maintenance for turbo 3.0 v6
Yo bud, have you ever done this job on a 9-5? I have a 2000 9-5 Aero and need to this job. The vid I saw from Saabautosy show them removing the top engine mount bracket? 🤔. Makes no sense to me why they did this?
Removing the bracket just helps to see the belt area. Yep I have 2 y2k 9-5 Aeros and have done it to both, but I should note I deleted the idler pulley on both per Saab's TSB. If your's still has the belt looped on the idler, you'll def want to remove the top bracket to get to it. Otherwise process is the same as in the video, but for my 9-5s I don't remove the top bracket and instead just pull the belt off the crank pully only, move that one loop out of the way and slowly release the tension. Helps to have a second person hold the tensioner (same 1/2in drive breaker bar) up top while you undo the crank pully loop underneath, but can also be done by yourself. If you do it right the belt will stay sitting on the rest of the pulleys, so all you have to do is slip the crank loop back on when finished and you're good.
@@saabross3171 nice! 😎 thanks for confirming. Ps, no need to lock in the flywheel with anything when tightening back the 27mm with the torque gun, right? Regardless whether the transmission is auto or Manual? I also plan on doing it to my 2002 9-3 SE Manual..thanks again for the cool videos man!
@@eacbank7977 no, and if you did want to use the flywheel locking tool good luck finding one. A good impact, and enough ugga-duggas to start spinning the crank is all I use. Ps the crank spins righty tighty while engines running, so it's not going anywhere
@@eacbank7977 and you're welcome! Glad to see the vids are still helping folks out, best they can
3:04 That bolt should open like this? I seen on different video it was clockvise opening
Hmm, no it's just lefty loosey. The engine spins clockwise towards the tightening direction when it's running. By design, I imagine Saab didn't want it spinning towards loosening direction so yes, the bolt unscrews as seen in the video just like any other bolt. Nothing fancy!
What was the part number for that outer o-ring?
9130600
@@saabross3171 Thanks
Did you remove the pulley by hand, without any removal tools ?
Yes
I often recording with one hand while using the other. It took two hands to wiggle & begin sliding it off, that's why only the final bit is in the video. I've yet to need a puller for these, slides right out!
Saab Ross thanks!
Saab Ross yep, mines well stuck. Tried slight and not so slight taps with hammer, prying with pry bar. Off to get pulley tool tomorrow. This is probably due to harsh climate and lack of panel cover lol
@@tikrainezedgaras Ah, makes sense. Yeah that panel is kinda important, especially if you live in a rust area
Is a impact gun ok to tighten the bolt when done?
The impact gun is perfect.
Is this process similar for a 2004 9-3 linear?
Completely different, pretty sure you have to remove the timing cover on the newer 9-3
Only when replacing the belt
Do you have to drain the oil before you do this?
Nope, no need to.
@@saabross3171 thanks!
my oring wasn't that dry and hard. and you my want to look into buying a seal puller and do the seal before that snap ring.
I mean you could just pull the main Elring seal out with that tool, but if I'm taking the crank pulley off I just prefer to do them both (the seal & housing o-ring)
how did u torque the bolt to 130lb/ft ??
With a 120ft-lb torque stick and a couple extra ugga-duggas ;-) You'll know once the crank starts turning, with an impact gun that is. Using a manual torque wrench would be hard without locking the flywheel in place (see special tool mentioned in video). Torque sticks on the other hand are readily available on Amazon
what's the amount of nm's that you used?
135ft/lbs equals 183Nm
Why did you just say how to set it 10 seconds, was all it would take
?
Remove the PASSENGER side wheel ??? Thats not right.
Oh, I guess you are in a foreign country, my Saab has the drivers wheel on the right side, hence the passenger's side is the left side of the car, or the right side if you are standing in front of the car looking back at it.
Passenger side in the US haha, Drivers side in the UK
Dude you take way to long getting to the point man,......
I'm not gonna apologize for your lack of patience. If you're working on a Saab nowadays, you're gonna need some...
taking shortcuts on a job like this is gonna leave you stuck on the side of the freeway with a giant puddle of oil under your car.