Great to see Toby sharing his words of practical wisdom on TFL again! I hope Brendan and Tommy give us some updates on what they fix, and what they choose to live with for a future video.
I had a 95, in this market 6,600.00 is a good deal. A good project car you can drive everyday. You would be amazed what you can fit in it when you fold the back seat down. I got a large frame 29er mountain bike in the back and still was able to close the hatch.
This is something I'm really interested in. Addressing the worn out parts and returning this Trans Am to the proper condition and then driving it/racing it. Videos showing off the improvements and documenting install. Love to see this car returned to all its glory plus maybe add some new high performance parts, proper alignment, new brake pads, shocks and UHP summer tires for when the weather warms up there or at least UHP all-season brand name tires Michelin or Continental. Full body paint detail. Then can sell when you are done tfl bids, win-win.
I'm gonna start by saying Toby is a great tech and seems like a great guy. However, he's not an LT1 expert. It's easy to become one though. @2:30... Nope, just a throttle body. Probably a 52mm. @13:15... The water pump isn't belt driven, it's driven off the timing chain. There was never a belt there. It's ribbed for one because GM used an off the shelf part from a different GM engine. @14:00... In the future, place the lift arms on those plastic pads just forward of where the lift am is now. That's the "lift pad".
You are spot on with everything except where to lift the car. Always lift on the pinch welds or frame, not on the plastic pieces that specifically say on them not to use a jack in that location. If you do you will get the notorious Fbody front fender bulge because it will bend the location of where your front fender mounts to.
My '97 WS6 had Hotchkis springs and swaybars, Bilstein shocks/struts and Brembo 14" brakes. Ran the Gold Rush open road race and was stable for miles at 150mph.
That’s just an upgraded throttle body…intake and fuel rails are factory.. It does have from the era aftermarket Baer brakes LT1 doesn’t have electronic water pump, it has a cam driven water pump. Find a new shop.
Yikes If your right that's over 2 decades old, Funny hearing him say they were disintegrating on way home. They probably as durable as pink school erasers
The electric water pump is a popular upgrade for the LT1 that helps prevent problems with the optispark ignition. If the T56 and clutch are sound, then I believe you folks have done well!
@@markvanderlee He is saying that they upgraded this one with an electric pump. The kit comes with a new timing cover that doesn't have a water pump seal. While the cover is off you can remove the drive assembly for the water pump. It's a nice upgrade for the car to come with but not something I would do on my own car if it was factory.
@nix4644 he assumed it was electric because there was no belt. He never said anything about wires going to the pump, so I'm pretty sure it's stock and he's not familiar with an LT1.
Pause the video at 10:58 and you can see those tires were made the 38th week of 2001. No wonder they are dry rotted. You guys are lucky to have made it home on those tires. When I worked for Bridgestone we couldn't sell tires that were 6 years or older even if they were new on the shelf. They had to be returned for disposal.
Thanks for pointing this out. I was hoping that they'd tell us the date code on those tires around the 10 minute mark. I'd never imagine they were that old. Reminds me of my buddy who bought an old Datsun in 2007, and the tires on it said "Made in East Germany".
The absolute best part of these videos is TOBY! You can tell A) he just knows what he's talking about and is not BSing you; B) he about as honest as you'll ever find; C) his shop is spotless and D) I trust him immediately and I'd let him work on my car without hesitation. And that comes from a guy who never lets anyone work on his car. What's there not to love about Toby? Thanks guys. If it's got Toby, I'm watching and liking.
6k for a comp TA is a steal. And the edelbrock plate is just on the throttle body. That intake is stock. There are no aftermarket fuel rails for LT1. The key to lt1 survivability is knowledge on the platform so study study study!!
How did they get a very limited edition 6 speed T/A for $6600 ?? The body looks mint. Regardless of the leaks. That is a steal ! This is a 13 second car that will pin the 160 speedo with a single exhaust ! no less.
DeCarbon shocks are stock and should be replaced. Suggest Vogtland springs, Bilstein shocks, and Founders Performance for a budget friendly suspension that really works well. Oil leaks are most likely from oil pan and front/rear seals. Best is to drop the cradle to replace all the seals. Cool car and good luck!
An F-body will you treat you right if you treat her right. They're cake to maintain. You'll have a good time. These really benefit from suspension and chassis mods. Most of that suspension is stock and definitely needs attention
That bicycle tube was laying on top of battery posts to stop possible short or arc. Not sure it was needed for composite hood unless it’s supported underneath by metal.
Also just want to write that you have a great find at a very good price - all pretty basic repairs! The only question mark for me is the fuel leak. But, even that will probably be pretty straight forward. Just jump in, start taking stuff apart...and learn. You all are clearly intelligent. Don't under estimate what you can learn and do!
I have a 1997 Trans AM that's been sitting since I purchased it non running 3 years ago. Apparently, no one in Phoenix Arizona knows how to work on an LT1.
That's actually a special car. Only 72 made in 1995. 31 t tops with a 6 speed. 164 total production. 6 with sport suspension package. Your car has a J1F brake package so those brakes probably came with it.
The water pump is motor driven on the 4th Gen 5.7 V8 Lt1 not belt driven. GM decided to put the water pump above the optispark...great engineering when the pump leaks, your optispark gets wet and your car won't start or timing is all jacked up. It's not an LT1 if it's not leaking oil.😅
Lol, for a car that is almost 30 years old and is in that good shape, $6000 was a steal. Oil leaks, starter and suspension isn't a problem to fix for those F bodies. I doubt that you'll find a WS6 in that good of a condition for how old it is. I see an Audi banner on the garage, I really doubt that an Audi will even last 10 years without a serious issue. Lol, a pretty big job to change the seal around the timing cover, that ain't no audi. Lol, you guys should go to another mechanic.
Since you guys didn't get any documentation with the car are the option stickers that SLP put on the car still readable? Usually there is one under the hood and one on at least one door if not not both. This will let you know what SLP options were ordered. I can tell you now there were no internal engine upgrades on any comps. The functional ram air hood was really the only power adder. Some cars had the 2otl (two on the left) exhaust installed by SLP but can't remember if they did that all three years or not. Not sure if the one on that car is OEM or aftermarket but it's not SLP.
Thank you, Tommy, Brendon, and Toby. Wouldn't be a GM with 50k miles if it didn't leak fluids. Toby needs TLFgarage (thinking Pat Goss from Motorweek) great shorts
Why in the world are you risking safety on crap tires? You commented dozens of times and didn't drag race due to tires, but the first thing, even more important than oil, is CHANGE TIRES.
I also own a 94 red T/A-- this is called first gen LT1 with non-vented optispark distributor--- if you ever need to put another optispark distributor--- buy it from Petris Enterprises-- they sell a vented spline Drive optispark distributor kit with installation instructions-- that will update your 1st gen LT1 to 2nd gen LT1--- that's what I did for my 94 T/A
Agreed, though I don’t see anything here that would signify this as being a bad buy. All of it is just normal wear for a car of its age and a a solid PPI would’ve been most useful in negotiating the sales price down a bit more. I would expect oil seals and suspension components to be worn out on just about any 30 year old car tbh.
I had several LT1 and LT4 cars , that intake is stock, but that throttle body has been changed to a 52m Edelbrock. The LT’s usually leaked from the front main seal and then the back of the intake where it mates to the block.
Pretty sure that's the wrong harmonic balancer. LT1 never had 2 belts so the balancer should only have one grooved pulley. My money is the OEM balancer started to tick so they grabbed one from a Silverado at a junkyard.
I just commented on that, it looks like it's coming off the crankshaft.. you can see the wear marks are outside the timing cover.. I didn't see a belt on it either 😮😮
You did get a good deal on a nice car. I've owned fourth gen Firebirds for 23 years. The only time I have seen a Comp TA is at big Pontiac car shows. Fix it and take care of it. I was disappointed in how little you actually looked over the car before your trip. Common sense.
Could you elaborate? I'm a new lt1 owner (97, z28, all stock) and would like to know what you mean with rude awakening once he tears into it or any other info you want to provide. Thanks!
@@tenshi1160 because they’re a pain in the ass to work on changing the spark plugs is a pain the Opti -spark likes to go out. And that’s a 3 to 4 hour labor job but if you take care of these cars, they’re pretty good. I have a 1993 with 130,000 miles.
I mean I paid $1500 and dumped $3000 into my Comp T/A and it ran but doesn’t run anymore. It also sat for a decade and has rust problems, I’d say you guys didn’t do bad. I will say tho I had the same issue with the starter when I started reviving mine, you’ll want to get the OEM rebuilt if you can, the repops have plastic internals that fail
$4k? I'd buy them by the dozen for that price, even with the leaks. That's what you pay for a V6 around my area. I think $6k was a good price for a fairly low mileage LT1 Trans Am.
The rear suspension on this car has a trac bar which causes the rear end to wiggle around anytime you hit a bump. The Vega and the Monza also had a trac bar. You drive the car long enough and you get used to it. So the wiggle is normal on the rear.
I appreciate Toby’s input but mechanics always lowball on prices. You could fix and flip this car for a profit and it is going to appreciate in value. Ram Air Firebirds with a 6-speed are sought after and lower mile ones can fetch 5x more than what you guys paid. This is a rare one as well that’s just turning the corner on classic. $4k would probably be fair if it was 5 years ago but the market has changed. I still remember driving a 1987 Z28 dark red with silver on the bottom. 50k miles, 5speed, G92 performance axle, TPI motor, T-tops and red leather. Dealer wanted $6k back in the 90s and my dads mechanic said “no” because it had a couple oil leaks. Said he wouldn’t pay more than $3k… Now that I know what I know about cars, that guy was wrong about the value. That was a very rare car I’d love to have today… It’s good to get a mechanic’s opinion on mechanical condition, but with value it’s good to consult experts in that world.
Stickers on a car don't add value! 😂😂😂... it had about 20hp more than the standard 5.7 and some upgraded suspension parts, which this one needs replaced. I would have liked to know how much it will cost to fix it. LT-1's not the easiest to work on.
You got my friend got a repair shop so I was very lucky with that one pushing about 650 horse I keep off of it cuz I didn't put the frame rails stiffeners in stiffeners in but it brings a lot of attention
Definitely good rule of thumb. That if you add a top post battery to a car that was not designed for one. It doesn't hit the hood. Except for this car it's got a fiberglass😅
Go to ALL nylon bushings (arms, panyard, sway bars), add Bilsteins, change limited slip diff fluid, pwr steering fluid, coolant, springs. Fix all leaks, flush FI, fuel filter, plugs, check CPU tune (for aftermarket).. do NOT track. Or the value for limited production goes out the window. Plus with T-tops you really want to do stupid punk rice burner burn outs, and track abuse? Go get a old Miata for track use. That is more your speed and track abilities. This T-top limited edition is not suited to track use, let alone non licensed (SCCA or others) You Tubers running on a track.
The crank hub is walking off of the crankshaft you can see the shinny part of the crank hub coming out SMH and the water pump is driven off of the cam not belt
There's no belt on the harmonic balancer because it has an underdrive pulley installed. As so many others have noted, the water pump is driven off the camshaft, so there was never a belt there. I saw an aftermarket throttle body, an aftermarket panhard rod, and the Baer brakes, otherwise, it looks pretty stock. Don't let this guy talk you into springs, just replace the bump stops and the shocks. These engines always leak from the valve cover gaskets, the ends of the intake manifold, the 3 seals in the front cover, and the oil pan gasket. The pinion seal in the rear end also always leaks. You guys stole this car for what you paid. It's easily worth double that in its current condition. *Please don't turn this guy loose on the engine repairs; find someone who is familiar with LT1's.*
That is the STOCK lt1 intake. Maybe it has a throttlebody under that edelbrock gasket cover lol. And most of the hoods were steel except the ram air cars. that ram air hood alone is worth over $1000 and that stock lt1 ram air intake is worth over $500. T56 is worth 2k and the rear tail lights are worth over $1000 in good shapw
Ummm, did anyone else notice around the 8:46 time mark, that the harmonic balancer was coming off, and there was no belt on it??? Absolutely love the car though... I don't think that was a bad price at all... she looks good..
Those rear bump stops are notorious garbage... Especially with any added HP or a lowered car. Avoid stock replacement bump stops they're rubber garbage... Use poly bump stops for a jeep as up till now fbody ones haven't been listed/offered unless that changed... That comp t/a may be rare but not outstanding or overly desirable so have at it... Also keep an eye on that opti spark as those lt engines are notorious for failed opti's... That's a sweet car otherwise... Needs some umi suspension upgrades, some qa1's, and a good cat back and it'll eat any corner or quarter mile easily.... Enjoy the bird! I'm always available if you have any needs for info or parts availability for gm fbodys and corvettes!
oil will leak from the join of the rear china wall and intake manifold. The back 4 bolts tend to loosen. retorque those bolts or pull the manifold and changevthe seal.
Im so glad maine doesnt have emissions or really any restrictions other than converters and even that is loose because as long as it appears to have em your good, ive gutted them and had a rich carb cook em out on my pickup, and as long as you are not stupid with your exhaust sound your good. There are soooo many late model trucks around here with gutted cats and muffler deleat, now im not a fan of those obnoxious slappy sounding exhaust but my 95 sn95 has gutted cats and no muffs and having the factory pipe and a 215hp engine its not obcenely loud but its loud and has a beautiful muscle car sound not slappy or like a raspy trumpet like the coyotes have, i actually cant stand the sound of loud yotes but ford mod motors sound pretty good as long as they have at least something to smooth the note out same with LS and vortecs.
Does the water pump leak onto the opti-spark distributor. Mine sure did and i had to do it myself. Did the starter myself in a parking lot. Motor repairs by mechanic went bad caused positive crank case pressure and it caught fire after i had it sitting but just had to drive it. Stay away from Corvette Care near Sacramento Ca.
Probably because he was using the bottle upside down when he was filling it from the previous video. I saw somebody might want to mention that to him lol.
As far as LT1 cars are concerned the 97 is the year to have, but with that being said, I would have gladly paid the money that you paid for this car, there is nothing made today that even compares to how BADASS it looks, yeah, you're probably going to get waxed by a new Challenger, Mustang or Camaro, but they are like cookie cutters, boring, you can't turn a corner without seeing one!😄😄😄
I might have missed it, but did Toby identify the location of the oil leak? It could be as simple as a valve cover gasket... even a rear main seal isn't that hard to change on a 2WD car. Oil pan gasket might hard to change but I don't know f-body cars at all. Not a deal breaker...but if the car was consuming oil...whole different story.
Nice video. Very few true f-body experts around anymore as they’re so old now. Toby seems like a smart general mechanic, LT1s we’re sorta a strange engine a normal mechanic wouldn’t know this car’s nuances.
Not being jerk, but buddy has no clue… says it has the whole aftermarket fuel injection rails and all (obv stock), electric water pump 😂 (clearly stock lt1 replacement)
I'd pay $6000 for that car. Cars like that around here people are asking $10-20,000. Plus, it's a Comp TA, those are non existent here. That's basically an SLP Firehawk for $6000!
He does own a shop that specializes in European imports. He probably doesn't work on LT1 engines often and most likely isn't interested in them. Even the best mechanic doesn't have a encyclopedic knowledge of every engine ever produced.
I like Toby's down-to-earth approach. He cares about the actual condition of a car and doesn't get blinded by a pretty face.
I don't think 6k for it was a bad price . A buddy a couple cases of beer and a long weekend it's all that's needed to make her healthy again
😂😂
It’s a Comp T/A which is fairly rare
Great to see Toby sharing his words of practical wisdom on TFL again! I hope Brendan and Tommy give us some updates on what they fix, and what they choose to live with for a future video.
I had a 95, in this market 6,600.00 is a good deal. A good project car you can drive everyday. You would be amazed what you can fit in it when you fold the back seat down. I got a large frame 29er mountain bike in the back and still was able to close the hatch.
This is something I'm really interested in. Addressing the worn out parts and returning this Trans Am to the proper condition and then driving it/racing it. Videos showing off the improvements and documenting install.
Love to see this car returned to all its glory plus maybe add some new high performance parts, proper alignment, new brake pads, shocks and UHP summer tires for when the weather warms up there or at least UHP all-season brand name tires Michelin or Continental. Full body paint detail. Then can sell when you are done tfl bids, win-win.
I'm gonna start by saying Toby is a great tech and seems like a great guy. However, he's not an LT1 expert. It's easy to become one though. @2:30... Nope, just a throttle body. Probably a 52mm. @13:15... The water pump isn't belt driven, it's driven off the timing chain. There was never a belt there. It's ribbed for one because GM used an off the shelf part from a different GM engine. @14:00... In the future, place the lift arms on those plastic pads just forward of where the lift am is now. That's the "lift pad".
You are spot on with everything except where to lift the car. Always lift on the pinch welds or frame, not on the plastic pieces that specifically say on them not to use a jack in that location. If you do you will get the notorious Fbody front fender bulge because it will bend the location of where your front fender mounts to.
@@4thgenZ28 You're right. My bad, I forgot about that. It's been a decade (or maybe two) since I had mine.
My '97 WS6 had Hotchkis springs and swaybars, Bilstein shocks/struts and Brembo 14" brakes. Ran the Gold Rush open road race and was stable for miles at 150mph.
Man I love the front end of the WS6 pre LS1 . I’d love this body with the LS in her !
@@thescramble4309 The 93-97 Trans Am's looks usually go unappreciated with most people preferring the look of the LS1 cars.
That’s just an upgraded throttle body…intake and fuel rails are factory..
It does have from the era aftermarket Baer brakes
LT1 doesn’t have electronic water pump, it has a cam driven water pump.
Find a new shop.
10:59 If I'm reading the tire date code right (3801), tire was manufactured the 38th week of 2001. I'd say they're due for replacement!
Yikes If your right that's over 2 decades old, Funny hearing him say they were disintegrating on way home. They probably as durable as pink school erasers
Tires from 2001 are way higher quality than tires from today
The electric water pump is a popular upgrade for the LT1 that helps prevent problems with the optispark ignition. If the T56 and clutch are sound, then I believe you folks have done well!
It's not electric, it's driven off the cam.
@@markvanderlee He is saying that they upgraded this one with an electric pump. The kit comes with a new timing cover that doesn't have a water pump seal. While the cover is off you can remove the drive assembly for the water pump.
It's a nice upgrade for the car to come with but not something I would do on my own car if it was factory.
@@markvanderlee You must've snoozed during the part where Toby said it had been replaced with an electric water pump...ZZzzz😉
@nix4644 he assumed it was electric because there was no belt. He never said anything about wires going to the pump, so I'm pretty sure it's stock and he's not familiar with an LT1.
@christobias5682 it is nice but I'd bet he was only assuming it was electric because of the absence of a belt.
Pause the video at 10:58 and you can see those tires were made the 38th week of 2001. No wonder they are dry rotted. You guys are lucky to have made it home on those tires. When I worked for Bridgestone we couldn't sell tires that were 6 years or older even if they were new on the shelf. They had to be returned for disposal.
Thanks for pointing this out. I was hoping that they'd tell us the date code on those tires around the 10 minute mark. I'd never imagine they were that old. Reminds me of my buddy who bought an old Datsun in 2007, and the tires on it said "Made in East Germany".
Those aren't oil leaks, thats Pontiac's patented automatic rust proofing system. Rumour has it they stole the idea from Land Rover...
The absolute best part of these videos is TOBY! You can tell A) he just knows what he's talking about and is not BSing you; B) he about as honest as you'll ever find; C) his shop is spotless and D) I trust him immediately and I'd let him work on my car without hesitation. And that comes from a guy who never lets anyone work on his car. What's there not to love about Toby? Thanks guys. If it's got Toby, I'm watching and liking.
6k for a comp TA is a steal. And the edelbrock plate is just on the throttle body. That intake is stock. There are no aftermarket fuel rails for LT1. The key to lt1 survivability is knowledge on the platform so study study study!!
How did they get a very limited edition 6 speed T/A for $6600 ?? The body looks mint. Regardless of the leaks. That is a steal ! This is a 13 second car that will pin the 160 speedo with a single exhaust ! no less.
DeCarbon shocks are stock and should be replaced. Suggest Vogtland springs, Bilstein shocks, and Founders Performance for a budget friendly suspension that really works well. Oil leaks are most likely from oil pan and front/rear seals. Best is to drop the cradle to replace all the seals. Cool car and good luck!
Toby’s a great addition to the channel. More please
An F-body will you treat you right if you treat her right. They're cake to maintain. You'll have a good time. These really benefit from suspension and chassis mods. Most of that suspension is stock and definitely needs attention
Holy Jesus! Thats a very RARE CAR!# THAT'S a COMP TA!! SLP!! I WANT IT
Love seeing Toby on the channel...I'd love to hear estimates on what it would cost to fix all this stuff though!
Dam LT1s are a pain in the ass to work on. My first car in high school was a 96 firebird formula. Class of 07!
That bicycle tube was laying on top of battery posts to stop possible short or arc. Not sure it was needed for composite hood unless it’s supported underneath by metal.
Cool video, but just a heads up, the LT1's water pump is driven off the cam and not a belt
Any mechanic should know that. I'm not impressed with his general car knowledge.
Toby doesn’t seem to know that much about these particular cars
No he obviously doesn't at all.
Also just want to write that you have a great find at a very good price - all pretty basic repairs! The only question mark for me is the fuel leak. But, even that will probably be pretty straight forward. Just jump in, start taking stuff apart...and learn. You all are clearly intelligent. Don't under estimate what you can learn and do!
The fuel smell could just be the EVAP cannister is clogged.
I have a 1997 Trans AM that's been sitting since I purchased it non running 3 years ago. Apparently, no one in Phoenix Arizona knows how to work on an LT1.
That's actually a special car. Only 72 made in 1995. 31 t tops with a 6 speed. 164 total production. 6 with sport suspension package. Your car has a J1F brake package so those brakes probably came with it.
Really like the t/a, The lt1 water pump is driven off the cam.
The water pump is motor driven on the 4th Gen 5.7 V8 Lt1 not belt driven. GM decided to put the water pump above the optispark...great engineering when the pump leaks, your optispark gets wet and your car won't start or timing is all jacked up. It's not an LT1 if it's not leaking oil.😅
Lol, for a car that is almost 30 years old and is in that good shape, $6000 was a steal. Oil leaks, starter and suspension isn't a problem to fix for those F bodies. I doubt that you'll find a WS6 in that good of a condition for how old it is. I see an Audi banner on the garage, I really doubt that an Audi will even last 10 years without a serious issue. Lol, a pretty big job to change the seal around the timing cover, that ain't no audi. Lol, you guys should go to another mechanic.
It’s a ‘95 WS6 wasn’t a package yet
Toby is the man!!!! Love the honesty!!
Since you guys didn't get any documentation with the car are the option stickers that SLP put on the car still readable? Usually there is one under the hood and one on at least one door if not not both. This will let you know what SLP options were ordered. I can tell you now there were no internal engine upgrades on any comps. The functional ram air hood was really the only power adder. Some cars had the 2otl (two on the left) exhaust installed by SLP but can't remember if they did that all three years or not. Not sure if the one on that car is OEM or aftermarket but it's not SLP.
really digging the content lately gents. Nice work
Thank you, Tommy, Brendon, and Toby. Wouldn't be a GM with 50k miles if it didn't leak fluids. Toby needs TLFgarage (thinking Pat Goss from Motorweek) great shorts
It's a 28 year old car. It's allowed to leak some fluids.
Why in the world are you risking safety on crap tires? You commented dozens of times and didn't drag race due to tires, but the first thing, even more important than oil, is CHANGE TIRES.
I bought a red 94 trans am about a week ago and it's a beauty
I also own a 94 red T/A-- this is called first gen LT1 with non-vented optispark distributor--- if you ever need to put another optispark distributor--- buy it from Petris Enterprises-- they sell a vented spline Drive optispark distributor kit with installation instructions-- that will update your 1st gen LT1 to 2nd gen LT1--- that's what I did for my 94 T/A
I have a 93 as you can see in my profile pic. Just replaced the Opti .
Toby with tommy and Brendon and kase the ultimate team at tfl # awesomeness
Yeah, those Baer brakes were probably big money back in the day. Big jump to make. Nice Comp TA, guys.
The moral of the story: Always have a mechanic inspect it on a lift before buying!
Agreed, though I don’t see anything here that would signify this as being a bad buy. All of it is just normal wear for a car of its age and a a solid PPI would’ve been most useful in negotiating the sales price down a bit more. I would expect oil seals and suspension components to be worn out on just about any 30 year old car tbh.
Timing cover is like a couple hour job that’s a very nice car for what you payed that guy don’t know nothing about f body cars
In this market, it was a great deal! It does need a little love and that's ok, Toby seems to be a fair mechanic , where is his accent from?
That inner tube is heat shrink bud
The mysteries of life. Toby the philosopher
I had several LT1 and LT4 cars , that intake is stock, but that throttle body has been changed to a 52m Edelbrock. The LT’s usually leaked from the front main seal and then the back of the intake where it mates to the block.
Pretty sure that's the wrong harmonic balancer. LT1 never had 2 belts so the balancer should only have one grooved pulley. My money is the OEM balancer started to tick so they grabbed one from a Silverado at a junkyard.
I just commented on that, it looks like it's coming off the crankshaft.. you can see the wear marks are outside the timing cover.. I didn't see a belt on it either 😮😮
You did get a good deal on a nice car. I've owned fourth gen Firebirds for 23 years. The only time I have seen a Comp TA is at big Pontiac car shows. Fix it and take care of it. I was disappointed in how little you actually looked over the car before your trip. Common sense.
This guy is just a general mechanic. He knows nothing about the LT1 and will be in for a rude awakening once he tears into it lol
Could you elaborate? I'm a new lt1 owner (97, z28, all stock) and would like to know what you mean with rude awakening once he tears into it or any other info you want to provide. Thanks!
@@tenshi1160 because they’re a pain in the ass to work on changing the spark plugs is a pain the Opti -spark likes to go out. And that’s a 3 to 4 hour labor job but if you take care of these cars, they’re pretty good. I have a 1993 with 130,000 miles.
LT1 Trans Ams and Camaros are so damn cool.
I mean I paid $1500 and dumped $3000 into my Comp T/A and it ran but doesn’t run anymore. It also sat for a decade and has rust problems, I’d say you guys didn’t do bad. I will say tho I had the same issue with the starter when I started reviving mine, you’ll want to get the OEM rebuilt if you can, the repops have plastic internals that fail
$4k? I'd buy them by the dozen for that price, even with the leaks. That's what you pay for a V6 around my area. I think $6k was a good price for a fairly low mileage LT1 Trans Am.
I bought my 93 with a LT1 6 month ago it has 133,000 what do you think it’s worth? Everything works on it. I payed . I had to put a new Opti on it.
I love the “car on the lift” episodes!🙏
Wow this guy doesn't know much about an Fbody 😮
you got a great deal for a Comp TA. Time to throw $5k at it and make it perfect again
Guy knows his stuff
Toby is awesome
The rear suspension on this car has a trac bar which causes the rear end to wiggle around anytime you hit a bump. The Vega and the Monza also had a trac bar. You drive the car long enough and you get used to it. So the wiggle is normal on the rear.
I appreciate Toby’s input but mechanics always lowball on prices. You could fix and flip this car for a profit and it is going to appreciate in value. Ram Air Firebirds with a 6-speed are sought after and lower mile ones can fetch 5x more than what you guys paid. This is a rare one as well that’s just turning the corner on classic. $4k would probably be fair if it was 5 years ago but the market has changed.
I still remember driving a 1987 Z28 dark red with silver on the bottom. 50k miles, 5speed, G92 performance axle, TPI motor, T-tops and red leather. Dealer wanted $6k back in the 90s and my dads mechanic said “no” because it had a couple oil leaks. Said he wouldn’t pay more than $3k…
Now that I know what I know about cars, that guy was wrong about the value. That was a very rare car I’d love to have today…
It’s good to get a mechanic’s opinion on mechanical condition, but with value it’s good to consult experts in that world.
Stickers on a car don't add value! 😂😂😂... it had about 20hp more than the standard 5.7 and some upgraded suspension parts, which this one needs replaced. I would have liked to know how much it will cost to fix it. LT-1's not the easiest to work on.
Solid looking Sunfire with a body kit👌🏻
You got my friend got a repair shop so I was very lucky with that one pushing about 650 horse I keep off of it cuz I didn't put the frame rails stiffeners in stiffeners in but it brings a lot of attention
Good lord, not a lot of knowledge on LT1 4th gens. Totally stock intake with maybe a throttle body.
Definitely good rule of thumb. That if you add a top post battery to a car that was not designed for one. It doesn't hit the hood. Except for this car it's got a fiberglass😅
96 v6 auto camaros go for $4000... it's worth what they paid, they got lucky could have been bad when you don't check anything before hand...
I have a 93 Trans am with a LT1 V8 everything works the Opti spark was just replaced. What do you think she’s worth? She has 133,000 miles on her
Oil leaks have some value for some people too...... yup, that's why i bought an old Beetle :P
Go to ALL nylon bushings (arms, panyard, sway bars), add Bilsteins, change limited slip diff fluid, pwr steering fluid, coolant, springs. Fix all leaks, flush FI, fuel filter, plugs, check CPU tune (for aftermarket).. do NOT track. Or the value for limited production goes out the window. Plus with T-tops you really want to do stupid punk rice burner burn outs, and track abuse? Go get a old Miata for track use. That is more your speed and track abilities. This T-top limited edition is not suited to track use, let alone non licensed (SCCA or others) You Tubers running on a track.
It's an old clapped out gm... they be fine lol
@@joelmora2826 sure, waste it out entering Lemons race.
Looks like it just has an aftermarket throttle body but not a completely different intake.
Toby was being very polite. He cares more about mechanical condition than a nice looking car. I think 2 1/2 grand is more like the value to me.
You obviously have no idea about this car. $2500 would be crazy. LOL
The crank hub is walking off of the crankshaft you can see the shinny part of the crank hub coming out SMH and the water pump is driven off of the cam not belt
There's no belt on the harmonic balancer because it has an underdrive pulley installed. As so many others have noted, the water pump is driven off the camshaft, so there was never a belt there. I saw an aftermarket throttle body, an aftermarket panhard rod, and the Baer brakes, otherwise, it looks pretty stock. Don't let this guy talk you into springs, just replace the bump stops and the shocks. These engines always leak from the valve cover gaskets, the ends of the intake manifold, the 3 seals in the front cover, and the oil pan gasket. The pinion seal in the rear end also always leaks. You guys stole this car for what you paid. It's easily worth double that in its current condition. *Please don't turn this guy loose on the engine repairs; find someone who is familiar with LT1's.*
Well said.
Yes I was cringing this whole episode. He may be a good mechanic but he knows absolutely nothing about F-bodys.
That is the STOCK lt1 intake. Maybe it has a throttlebody under that edelbrock gasket cover lol. And most of the hoods were steel except the ram air cars. that ram air hood alone is worth over $1000 and that stock lt1 ram air intake is worth over $500. T56 is worth 2k and the rear tail lights are worth over $1000 in good shapw
Comp had zero internal modifications. Only the air box and exhaust
Ummm, did anyone else notice around the 8:46 time mark, that the harmonic balancer was coming off, and there was no belt on it??? Absolutely love the car though... I don't think that was a bad price at all... she looks good..
That thing is over all clean!
Toby's rad. Hit me up, Toby!
Those rear bump stops are notorious garbage... Especially with any added HP or a lowered car. Avoid stock replacement bump stops they're rubber garbage... Use poly bump stops for a jeep as up till now fbody ones haven't been listed/offered unless that changed... That comp t/a may be rare but not outstanding or overly desirable so have at it... Also keep an eye on that opti spark as those lt engines are notorious for failed opti's... That's a sweet car otherwise... Needs some umi suspension upgrades, some qa1's, and a good cat back and it'll eat any corner or quarter mile easily.... Enjoy the bird! I'm always available if you have any needs for info or parts availability for gm fbodys and corvettes!
That's a awesome price for the condition let alone the rarity
oil will leak from the join of the rear china wall and intake manifold. The back 4 bolts tend to loosen. retorque those bolts or pull the manifold and changevthe seal.
Im so glad maine doesnt have emissions or really any restrictions other than converters and even that is loose because as long as it appears to have em your good, ive gutted them and had a rich carb cook em out on my pickup, and as long as you are not stupid with your exhaust sound your good. There are soooo many late model trucks around here with gutted cats and muffler deleat, now im not a fan of those obnoxious slappy sounding exhaust but my 95 sn95 has gutted cats and no muffs and having the factory pipe and a 215hp engine its not obcenely loud but its loud and has a beautiful muscle car sound not slappy or like a raspy trumpet like the coyotes have, i actually cant stand the sound of loud yotes but ford mod motors sound pretty good as long as they have at least something to smooth the note out same with LS and vortecs.
do yourself a favor and replace the ignition switch on the top of the steering column..they tend to get ratty and short out between 100K-130K miles.
A few minutes on Google and you'd learn all about the comp-ta instead of guessing. Good price for a rare edition too.
Does the water pump leak onto the opti-spark distributor. Mine sure did and i had to do it myself. Did the starter myself in a parking lot. Motor repairs by mechanic went bad caused positive crank case pressure and it caught fire after i had it sitting but just had to drive it. Stay away from Corvette Care near Sacramento Ca.
This mechanic is excellent.. Very nice video..
That's debatable. He obviously knows nothing about these cars. He should stick to German cars.
Probably because he was using the bottle upside down when he was filling it from the previous video. I saw somebody might want to mention that to him lol.
That lt1 water pump is cam driven not belt driven
Thank you Toby for blessing us amateurs with your shop experience!
It’s an aftermarket throttle body, not intake or fuel rails. I have one.
Yep. He also doesn't know that the water pump isn't belt driven.
@@markvanderlee We that have messed with Gen2 Lt1’s know the score. Optispark, etc. They are torque monsters.
As far as LT1 cars are concerned the 97 is the year to have, but with that being said, I would have gladly paid the money that you paid for this car, there is nothing made today that even compares to how BADASS it looks, yeah, you're probably going to get waxed by a new Challenger, Mustang or Camaro, but they are like cookie cutters, boring, you can't turn a corner without seeing one!😄😄😄
I might have missed it, but did Toby identify the location of the oil leak? It could be as simple as a valve cover gasket... even a rear main seal isn't that hard to change on a 2WD car. Oil pan gasket might hard to change but I don't know f-body cars at all. Not a deal breaker...but if the car was consuming oil...whole different story.
Nice video. Very few true f-body experts around anymore as they’re so old now. Toby seems like a smart general mechanic, LT1s we’re sorta a strange engine a normal mechanic wouldn’t know this car’s nuances.
Take it out of that shop. The center drag link is keeping the twist away. The pan hard bar keeps it center.
change the opti spark get the sealed one from msd
Not being jerk, but buddy has no clue… says it has the whole aftermarket fuel injection rails and all (obv stock), electric water pump 😂 (clearly stock lt1 replacement)
how do i see a video about that mercedes 108 / 109 in the background?
nice car.
that black piece might have been large size heat shrink tubing
If I can get one of these cheap it doesn't look hard to fix up and maintain
I'd pay $6000 for that car. Cars like that around here people are asking $10-20,000. Plus, it's a Comp TA, those are non existent here. That's basically an SLP Firehawk for $6000!
Wonder what Kases Mercedes is doing there such a beautiful car
Toby!
Your mechanic doesn't know his LT1 engines.
Maybe because he works on foreign cars. Duh
He does own a shop that specializes in European imports.
He probably doesn't work on LT1 engines often and most likely isn't interested in them.
Even the best mechanic doesn't have a encyclopedic knowledge of every engine ever produced.