Jesus CHRIST! I’m FKNG over the whole RIGHT way to insulate a metal building. Shiny out…shiny in…air gap…orientation…inclusion of bubble foil…I almost wish I could go back to when there was no RUclips, thus no crutch for my OCD ass to slowly rely on year after year. Always needing to obtain the “best” information, instead of just getting out there and DOING shit with all that I’ve learned in 43 years of how stuff essentially works in life. Something that should be so useful like RUclips and the internet, slowly is becoming a hinderance for someone like myself who always tends to overthink shit… so afraid of doing something one way, when it COULD have been done better. DEF not griping at your video dude, I appreciate you posting these. Its just that I’ve often found very useful information amongst the comments, but it seems like that’s not as easy anymore with the over-cluttered amount of comments now. ..
edited for the sake of sanity my mom has enough of this stuff to cover a house ( it was meant to do exactly that, for some reason the siding installers for whatever reason didnt use the stuff mom bought, and ended up using their stuff so she has a whole bunch of this just sitting around. i was wanting to install this over the existing fiberglass blanket(?) with radiant barrier type insulation that was installed back when they built this all aluminum outbuilding, and have been puzzled as how i would go about securing it, fastening it, hanging it whatever. this video helped out a bunch thanks
Eliminating all the gaps by butting the insulation strips would significantly increase performance. Also a good idea to seal the joints with tape or caulk.
"...doesn't really have an R- rating..." Actually it does. The 1/2" sheets are rated at R-1.9 and the 1 & 1/2" sheets are rated at R-5.78. I am going to be using Owens Corning's Foamular in a manner like what you show here, only I'll be doing R-5 under sub-floor, R-10 on sides, and R-10 and 15 on the ceiling with a possible R-20 crown at the roof peak. I have a 10'x8' Arrow shed. Thanks for the inspiration!
I cut thick foam panels from LOWES to insulate my 2 car garage with aluminum doors. The sun rises and blasts my garage door but inside my garage is never higher than 78 degrees on the hottest days. I glued spacer strips between the barrier and my garage door giving me a 2-1/2" gap for the air to assist with the radiant barrier. Light enough not to overwork my garage door and looks nice too.
I was trying to figure out an air gap when I read your post. What about that reflective insulation Bubble wrap in between the foam board and the metal ceiling? What did you use for spacer strips?
@@jdatlee4368 Hey JD, I used the scrap trim pieces from the foam panels. I'm not a fan of those foil barriers and they are pretty much useless...about the same heat barrier performance as those foil windshield sun shades....air is the best in between. Good luck
yeah but it actually works the way that I'm telling you. It's what I do for a living. A lot of people have the same impression as what you're saying. It will work when there's an air space the way that you have it. But if you're going flat against the surface you want the aluminum side facing inward because it has low of a civet e and it doesn't let the radiant heat pass through it that's keeping the interior cooler.
I used roxul rockwool .Does not get wet does not harbor bugs and rodents don't like it .It was fast and easy .I bought a couple of those sheets you got but gosh it can be expensive for them .I used them under the floor because it was hard to get to .
One thing you said was that this product "has no real R value", but it does. The R-value of the product itself, in 1" thickness has a R-value of 3.9 @ 75 degrees, and with an air gap installation, has an effective R-value of 6.7. This according to the manufacturer website.
I haven't built mine yet so I think I'll just add 2" foam panels to the outside then cover with metal, taping all the seems should make a good vapor barrier.
We used some 3" rigid insulation board on a Bank I was the superintendent on 3 years ago behind the brick. Also had spray foam insulation inside. Crazy insulated.
Almost all building codes require a non-flamable barrier to the foam to prevent fires. A differing material, would be a product like 'Ayrfoil' or 'Tekfoil' or similar that is aluminized bubble wrap, with at least 2 layers bonded together. Two layers with an air gap between them, can give as much as R30! in some cases.Available in rolls up to 8' wide x 125' long x 3/16 thick.
So would this also make the shed warmer in the winter? I want a shed to build a model railway but not have to 1) only be a summer thing as winters too cold and 2) not have to build a wooden one as the size I want is mega bucks compared with metal shed
You installed incorrectly. When using a radiant barrier you should install the foil facing DOWNWARD. Te reason being is the foil has what is called: Low Emissivity. This refers to a surface that emits low levels of Radiant Heat. It is working the way you have installed due to it blocking some of the radiant heat transfer...but if you flip it you will notice a substantial difference. Good video!
with the radiant barrier on the inside it keeps the heat in more I want it out so I put it on the outside. I am trying to keep the heat out not in. some people want to keep the heat in. I am not in that area.
This does look like a quick and easy way to add some insulation and sound reduction to the metal walls. Radiant barriers, however, are not effective unless the shiny surface faces an open space of 1/2" or more. It does no harm in this application, but it also adds no value to the foam board. If you can find a lower price on foam board with no radiant barrier, that should work just as well when used like this. If you can install this foam board with a gap behind it, you would probably gain some added benefit from the radiant barrier surface.
Flipping the panels, with the shiny side facing the interior, would be one solution in this application. You can't have too MUCH space, but the radiant barrier surface will not be effective if it is installed right against another surface with no air gap. A lot of radiant barrier products are installed incorrectly, with the shiny surface covered by siding, wall sheathing or roofing materials. It seems that a lot of building pros still make this mistake, not realizing that the product is no longer a radiant barrier when it is covered by another material. At that point, it's just a shiny layer inside the assembly, adding no particular value. Also, this type of panel can eventually collect enough dust to reduce or eliminate the radiant barrier effect, especially when installed in a horizontal orientation with the shiny surface facing up.
I have a metal shed. The exterior wall is just metal again the 1x4 boards they are screwed to, I want to insulate it. There are 2x4 studs. Should i use foamboard between the 1x4 and then fiber glass insulation? Or what do you think it should do?
Foam insulation has an R- factor of 5 per inch. If you have gaps, regardless of size, that will detract significantly from the insulation properties of the polystyrene.
Code violation in all states.... Foam insulation is not fire resistant and emits toxic gases when it burns, so you must have a barrier on the surface, such as drywall. Also, you need furring strips behind it to gap it from the steel walls... helps with both moisture and your R rating
@@davidakridge2831 its to prevent stupid people from burning down their garages that are not covered under your insurance policy... guy across the street did this and his wall insulation, last year (none of it to code) and cooked the entire garage with 3 classic cars in it... none of it was covered. About $40k for the shop and over $200k for the cars, the tools, the lift, etc. Do your DIY @ your own peril. Fortunately, you are still free to be an idiot... so go for it.
What size dimensions are your carport? Looking to get one and have a lift in it but I’m not sure if 10 or 12 ft legs are needed to use the 2 post fully. I’m guessing the wider it is the more “extra usable height” you can get from it at the center of the roof.
Only if moisture is not an issue. If you want to reflect heat AND control moisture then you need to do it this way: bluetexinsulation.com/pages/existing-construction-metal-framed-buildings-installation www.BlueTexInsulation.com
Hi there! Can you tell me if your garage was wrapped with a moisture barrier or is it t1-11 (or similar) attached directly to the studs? Looking to create a workshop in our detached garage, but worried about insulating w/o house wrap in place… Thanks!
Question will this method work on a detached cinder block garage with closed room made into laundry room with window unframed walls and no insulation in the ceiling and causing damage to water pipes in winter and damage to washer water input , and cpvc is mounted to 1×4 small blocks leaving room for 1/2 to 3/4 boards behind that will need to be cut and installed like a puzzle and the joints sealed for moisture / the dampness because the main water line comes directly into front corner which I buried r19 fiberglass around the incoming pipes with the foam insulation and dirt on top of that and parked the insulation good and thinking about using sack-crete with sono tubes for water piping to have access to the pipes in case future issues and really don't want to spend a whole lot more money on a rental property, that I rent , but have continuous problems and my personal property is getting damaged in winter because of lack of proper insulation , directly on interior of the cider block walls and the ceiling is wood framed and could use nail up roll insulation for that but would probably have to use the bathroom rated sheetrock and put a opening and a base board heater which I already purchased 2 , I feel like I'm pouring equity into someone else's property because , current land lord is very slow to get any work done that needs to be done... But this land and the detached garage and wood framed and shingled storage bldg is worth the rent
I'm asking if this method is accurate and the best for moisture control as well as insulation purposes , that is affordable on the interior of the unframed walled cinder block , I'm just trying to keep the temp above freezing using insulation and not running up my power bill with an energy efficient base board heater that is there right size for the square feet and need to get a thermostat to make it more efficient that cuts on at close to freezing temp and shuts off at 7° Fahrenheit above freezing to ensure pipes and water heater and my brand new laundry appliances don't get **'!+ed up
Personally I think the property owner should be more reasonable when he knows the condition of property and I report directly to him every issue that is of major concern , that doesn't hit my wallet really hard , but my pipes freezing up and brand new washer getting tore up , I have to do something,
Will that set work inside of a shipping container too ? Will it make the wall condensate in a enclose enviroment or what else need to be done for that set up ? Thanks
not sure on that. Some guys say in the cold you need an air gap. Im my area we dont have issues with damp or super freezing cold. And not required. I guess it depends on where you are.
I put it toward the metal. because I want it to be a barrier for the heat then the foam to insulate. Some guys in colder areas who are doing the opposite trying to keep the heat in more put it on the inside.
@@mikethepainter Great point. In fact we make a Foil/Foil product to both reflect heat in the summer and help keep heat IN in the winter: bluetexinsulation.com/products/premium-bluetex-insulation-6mm
I have the same type of building as and I'm interested in doing something like this. My question that keeps surfacing is what about condensation? Does is happen and how I prevent it? Short to the point answers, please.
young man U ARE DOING YOUR METAL CARPORT , [ > A S S - B A C K - WARD < ] YOUR WALL ARE 4 FT. CENTER AND 4 X 8 SHEET WILL FIT PERFECT IN SIDE 4 FT. . CENTER WALL !
I dont know exactly depending on how thick I Those sheets are 4x8 and 6 or so dollars 1/2 inch thick. thicker gives better insulation if you are trying to keep the heat in I would put the radiant barrier on inside. where I live it is all about keeping the heat out So I put the radiant barrier on the outside.
No it does not! I used it in my shipping container/shop. My floors are soaked around the edges where the condensation runs down behind the foam panels.
That's because he didn't leave an air gap. I'm thinking he'd been better off fixing it to his studs. He had a big air gap down on the floor so I'm guessing he has one up high somewhere too.....hot air travels up so some kind of venting at the roof and he should be set if he insulated the entire structure.... What say you?
To avoid condensation you need the air gap to be perfectly air tight, if humid air can enter or escape the air gap then it can condensate. In this case spray foam is better because no humid air touching the cold metal means no condensation.
@@davidstill754 With rigid indulation always a small gap is left, and if air can enter or escape there, it will condensate. To solve this you can use a small can of spray foam and fill *all* gaps, then it will be air tight and no humid air will touch the metal.
your camera is so close to the wall and moving so much it is hard to tell what you're doing. Get a tripod for pete'.s . Quite talking so much and just do the damn thing.
It is cheaper to pay a insulation contractor to install insulation, than buy it and install yourself, because they buy it so cheap.. Shop around for the best price,, than figure out how must it would cost you to just buy it.
David Akridge not anymore, but that’s not the point, as a home owner if you shop around the big guys buy in huge bulk so they get it very cheap and pass it on.
Here is another video to answer some questions on how this works ruclips.net/video/RouzkjDNNvo/видео.html
Jesus CHRIST! I’m FKNG over the whole RIGHT way to insulate a metal building. Shiny out…shiny in…air gap…orientation…inclusion of bubble foil…I almost wish I could go back to when there was no RUclips, thus no crutch for my OCD ass to slowly rely on year after year. Always needing to obtain the “best” information, instead of just getting out there and DOING shit with all that I’ve learned in 43 years of how stuff essentially works in life. Something that should be so useful like RUclips and the internet, slowly is becoming a hinderance for someone like myself who always tends to overthink shit… so afraid of doing something one way, when it COULD have been done better. DEF not griping at your video dude, I appreciate you posting these. Its just that I’ve often found very useful information amongst the comments, but it seems like that’s not as easy anymore with the over-cluttered amount of comments now.
..
edited for the sake of sanity
my mom has enough of this stuff to cover a house ( it was meant to do exactly that, for some reason the siding installers for whatever reason didnt use the stuff mom bought, and ended up using their stuff so she has a whole bunch of this just sitting around.
i was wanting to install this over the existing fiberglass blanket(?) with radiant barrier type insulation that was installed back when they built this all aluminum outbuilding, and have been puzzled as how i would go about securing it, fastening it, hanging it whatever. this video helped out a bunch thanks
Eliminating all the gaps by butting the insulation strips would significantly increase performance. Also a good idea to seal the joints with tape or caulk.
"...doesn't really have an R- rating..." Actually it does. The 1/2" sheets are rated at R-1.9 and the 1 & 1/2" sheets are rated at R-5.78. I am going to be using Owens Corning's Foamular in a manner like what you show here, only I'll be doing R-5 under sub-floor, R-10 on sides, and R-10 and 15 on the ceiling with a possible R-20 crown at the roof peak. I have a 10'x8' Arrow shed. Thanks for the inspiration!
Hang the insulation over the studs with metal siding installed over it...
Simply perfect....
I cut thick foam panels from LOWES to insulate my 2 car garage with aluminum doors. The sun rises and blasts my garage door but inside my garage is never higher than 78 degrees on the hottest days. I glued spacer strips between the barrier and my garage door giving me a 2-1/2" gap for the air to assist with the radiant barrier. Light enough not to overwork my garage door and looks nice too.
What did you use for spacer strips?
nice here is more info on this subject glad it worked for you as myself. ruclips.net/video/RouzkjDNNvo/видео.html
I was trying to figure out an air gap when I read your post. What about that reflective insulation Bubble wrap in between the foam board and the metal ceiling? What did you use for spacer strips?
@@jdatlee4368 Hey JD, I used the scrap trim pieces from the foam panels. I'm not a fan of those foil barriers and they are pretty much useless...about the same heat barrier performance as those foil windshield sun shades....air is the best in between.
Good luck
@@kennycybertron1 Thank you for the info
Foam insulation does indeed have an R-factor generally it is printed right on the insulation itself.
yeah but it actually works the way that I'm telling you. It's what I do for a living. A lot of people have the same impression as what you're saying. It will work when there's an air space the way that you have it. But if you're going flat against the surface you want the aluminum side facing inward because it has low of a civet e and it doesn't let the radiant heat pass through it that's keeping the interior cooler.
check this out OSB with radiant barrier has no air gap and is code where I live new video ruclips.net/video/RouzkjDNNvo/видео.html
If you do this for a living, why are you searching RUclips for "How to insulate a shed"?
Well you won't do my shop. Even the manufacturers say to put the foil side out with an air gap to reflect heat. Do you even know what RADIANT means?
I used roxul rockwool .Does not get wet does not harbor bugs and rodents don't like it .It was fast and easy .I bought a couple of those sheets you got but gosh it can be expensive for them .I used them under the floor because it was hard to get to .
So glad i came upon this video
One thing you said was that this product "has no real R value", but it does. The R-value of the product itself, in 1" thickness has a R-value of 3.9 @ 75 degrees, and with an air gap installation, has an effective R-value of 6.7. This according to the manufacturer website.
Ltngdrvr how big of a air gap?
I haven't built mine yet so I think I'll just add 2" foam panels to the outside then cover with metal, taping all the seems should make a good vapor barrier.
Did you try this out? Just wondering if it worked out for you
@@blakebrass125 not yet
Thanks man for taking the time
We used some 3" rigid insulation board on a Bank I was the superintendent on 3 years ago behind the brick. Also had spray foam insulation inside. Crazy insulated.
Almost all building codes require a non-flamable barrier to the foam to prevent fires. A differing material, would be a product like 'Ayrfoil' or 'Tekfoil' or similar that is aluminized bubble wrap, with at least 2 layers bonded together. Two layers with an air gap between them, can give as much as R30! in some cases.Available in rolls up to 8' wide x 125' long x 3/16 thick.
yea for sure this might answer more questions ruclips.net/video/RouzkjDNNvo/видео.html
Cool, thank you.
So would this also make the shed warmer in the winter?
I want a shed to build a model railway but not have to
1) only be a summer thing as winters too cold and
2) not have to build a wooden one as the size I want is mega bucks compared with metal shed
Has this been an effective solution?
You installed incorrectly. When using a radiant barrier you should install the foil facing DOWNWARD. Te reason being is the foil has what is called: Low Emissivity. This refers to a surface that emits low levels of Radiant Heat. It is working the way you have installed due to it blocking some of the radiant heat transfer...but if you flip it you will notice a substantial difference. Good video!
with the radiant barrier on the inside it keeps the heat in more I want it out so I put it on the outside. I am trying to keep the heat out not in. some people want to keep the heat in. I am not in that area.
More info on the radiant barrier subject ruclips.net/video/RouzkjDNNvo/видео.html
I'd use perforated Radiant barrier rolls. Did my attic last year, huge difference reflecting the heat.
This does look like a quick and easy way to add some insulation and sound reduction to the metal walls. Radiant barriers, however, are not effective unless the shiny surface faces an open space of 1/2" or more. It does no harm in this application, but it also adds no value to the foam board. If you can find a lower price on foam board with no radiant barrier, that should work just as well when used like this. If you can install this foam board with a gap behind it, you would probably gain some added benefit from the radiant barrier surface.
Pete Duncan can you not juts flip it around or is that too much space for radiant barrier to be effective?
Flipping the panels, with the shiny side facing the interior, would be one solution in this application. You can't have too MUCH space, but the radiant barrier surface will not be effective if it is installed right against another surface with no air gap.
A lot of radiant barrier products are installed incorrectly, with the shiny surface covered by siding, wall sheathing or roofing materials. It seems that a lot of building pros still make this mistake, not realizing that the product is no longer a radiant barrier when it is covered by another material. At that point, it's just a shiny layer inside the assembly, adding no particular value.
Also, this type of panel can eventually collect enough dust to reduce or eliminate the radiant barrier effect, especially when installed in a horizontal orientation with the shiny surface facing up.
here you go answer to the question of air gap. ruclips.net/video/RouzkjDNNvo/видео.html
I have a metal shed. The exterior wall is just metal again the 1x4 boards they are screwed to, I want to insulate it. There are 2x4 studs. Should i use foamboard between the 1x4 and then fiber glass insulation? Or what do you think it should do?
@@BW-0217 what ended up being your solution to this?
Foam insulation has an R- factor of 5 per inch. If you have gaps, regardless of size, that will detract significantly from the insulation properties of the polystyrene.
Yeah probably but it sure is a whole lot cooler with that stuff up
The radiant barrier isn't supposed to be touching the metal...
works great. way less heat in there.
Code violation in all states.... Foam insulation is not fire resistant and emits toxic gases when it burns, so you must have a barrier on the surface, such as drywall. Also, you need furring strips behind it to gap it from the steel walls... helps with both moisture and your R rating
hey thi s is for a shed not for a permanent structure or living space.
this might answer questions. ruclips.net/video/RouzkjDNNvo/видео.html
Uh oh, the code police
@@davidakridge2831 its to prevent stupid people from burning down their garages that are not covered under your insurance policy... guy across the street did this and his wall insulation, last year (none of it to code) and cooked the entire garage with 3 classic cars in it... none of it was covered. About $40k for the shop and over $200k for the cars, the tools, the lift, etc. Do your DIY @ your own peril. Fortunately, you are still free to be an idiot... so go for it.
@@VentureNW yes free to be an idiot, says the guy concerned about someone’s steel shed catching on fire lmao
Thanks for sharing. Best wishes.
What size dimensions are your carport? Looking to get one and have a lift in it but I’m not sure if 10 or 12 ft legs are needed to use the 2 post fully. I’m guessing the wider it is the more “extra usable height” you can get from it at the center of the roof.
Would this work for the ceiling of metal chicken coop roof?
After the insulation how's the temperature 🌡️🤒 like during summer 🌞⛱️?
What is the Fire Code Rating on this and how much per sqft is it?
Double back tape instead of silicon
double foil insulation roll works well
Ummmm no... see my video.
@@FletchDoesIt have a link to the video?
@@lennyelmore ruclips.net/video/oE5KIFMkXWc/видео.html
How much cooler is it?
Just get a top quality radiant barrier and no form required.
Only if moisture is not an issue. If you want to reflect heat AND control moisture then you need to do it this way: bluetexinsulation.com/pages/existing-construction-metal-framed-buildings-installation www.BlueTexInsulation.com
@@AtticFoil I'm fighting my ceiling condensation dripping from my metal building would this simple foam borad fix the issue
Hi there! Can you tell me if your garage was wrapped with a moisture barrier or is it t1-11 (or similar) attached directly to the studs?
Looking to create a workshop in our detached garage, but worried about insulating w/o house wrap in place…
Thanks!
My shed is lookin SWEET! Is it possible to add pic to a comment? I'd like to show y'all pics! Help would be appreciated! THANK YOU!
Whatsapp me +919660236726
No it's not a thing and please dont WhatsApp this man in the comments its sketchy
@@lullabybaby1845 I think you're trying to help me, is that right?
@@labauer5314 Yes mam😊
@@lullabybaby1845 thank you. I sure do need help. I dont suppose you're in the healthcare field???
Good info
hmmm i was debating just glueing it to my beems, so I have a bit of a dead air barrier.
Question will this method work on a detached cinder block garage with closed room made into laundry room with window unframed walls and no insulation in the ceiling and causing damage to water pipes in winter and damage to washer water input , and cpvc is mounted to 1×4 small blocks leaving room for 1/2 to 3/4 boards behind that will need to be cut and installed like a puzzle and the joints sealed for moisture / the dampness because the main water line comes directly into front corner which I buried r19 fiberglass around the incoming pipes with the foam insulation and dirt on top of that and parked the insulation good and thinking about using sack-crete with sono tubes for water piping to have access to the pipes in case future issues and really don't want to spend a whole lot more money on a rental property, that I rent , but have continuous problems and my personal property is getting damaged in winter because of lack of proper insulation , directly on interior of the cider block walls and the ceiling is wood framed and could use nail up roll insulation for that but would probably have to use the bathroom rated sheetrock and put a opening and a base board heater which I already purchased 2 , I feel like I'm pouring equity into someone else's property because , current land lord is very slow to get any work done that needs to be done... But this land and the detached garage and wood framed and shingled storage bldg is worth the rent
I'm asking if this method is accurate and the best for moisture control as well as insulation purposes , that is affordable on the interior of the unframed walled cinder block , I'm just trying to keep the temp above freezing using insulation and not running up my power bill with an energy efficient base board heater that is there right size for the square feet and need to get a thermostat to make it more efficient that cuts on at close to freezing temp and shuts off at 7° Fahrenheit above freezing to ensure pipes and water heater and my brand new laundry appliances don't get **'!+ed up
Personally I think the property owner should be more reasonable when he knows the condition of property and I report directly to him every issue that is of major concern , that doesn't hit my wallet really hard , but my pipes freezing up and brand new washer getting tore up , I have to do something,
Will that set work inside of a shipping container too ? Will it make the wall condensate in a enclose enviroment or what else need to be done for that set up ? Thanks
not sure on that. Some guys say in the cold you need an air gap. Im my area we dont have issues with damp or super freezing cold. And not required. I guess it depends on where you are.
love it's lightweight no glue nails or screws
yea works well keeps the heat down.
YOUR PORTABLE CARPORT HAVE 4 - FOOT CENTER EASY TO INSTALL THE RIGHT WAY / 4 X 8 SHEET FIT PERFECT INSIDE 4 FT CENTER
what is the name of the insulation and best place to get it
Thankz
Did it cool off your shop a lot?
oh yea for sure HUGE DIFFERENCE....
@@mikethepainter thanks for the reply. What size did you use? And what temperature change did you have after putting them up?
There is meant to be an air barries between the steel and ALL insulation blobs of a sealant is NOT correct.
works great for what I am doing. cools my walls down. that is all it is about.
Controls condensation pretty good?
This info may help: bluetexinsulation.com/pages/moisture-in-metal-buildings-causes
Hahahah im building a shed kit office from home depot and doing this exact shit
Question, isn’t the radian barrier go toward the inside like a vapor barrier or toward the metal?
I put it toward the metal. because I want it to be a barrier for the heat then the foam to insulate. Some guys in colder areas who are doing the opposite trying to keep the heat in more put it on the inside.
depends on what your doing but I like it up another video to answer questions. ruclips.net/video/RouzkjDNNvo/видео.html
@@mikethepainter Great point. In fact we make a Foil/Foil product to both reflect heat in the summer and help keep heat IN in the winter: bluetexinsulation.com/products/premium-bluetex-insulation-6mm
What side does the foil side go?
I usually put it to the outside at where I live some guys put it to the inside to keep the hot air in I want the hot air out
I have the same type of building as and I'm interested in doing something like this. My question that keeps surfacing is what about condensation? Does is happen and how I prevent it? Short to the point answers, please.
Mine is all metal. Siding and framing.
this info might help made a new video on this subject ruclips.net/video/RouzkjDNNvo/видео.html
young man
U ARE DOING YOUR METAL CARPORT , [ > A S S - B A C K - WARD < ] YOUR WALL ARE 4 FT. CENTER AND 4 X 8 SHEET WILL FIT PERFECT IN SIDE 4 FT. . CENTER WALL !
would this be a good way to insulate a shipping container as well??
No, use spray foam.
I would ruclips.net/video/RouzkjDNNvo/видео.html more info here
Is there a noticeable difference with the heat and how about the winter for cold?
definately a difference. I mainly use it to keep the heat out. more than 10 degrees on a hot day.
the radiant barrier does the work. massive difference in heat. well worth it on a metal building.
been easier to follow had you mounted the camera back a ways so we could see the whole area instead of you just holding it???
Spray is better.
Spray is dangerous if it doesn't set up right
And way more expensive
what is this stuff called?
R-tech
How much would an 8 -10 shed cost to insulate?
I dont know exactly depending on how thick I Those sheets are 4x8 and 6 or so dollars 1/2 inch thick. thicker gives better insulation if you are trying to keep the heat in I would put the radiant barrier on inside. where I live it is all about keeping the heat out So I put the radiant barrier on the outside.
My shed is as yours, will this handle the curve as it rolls up to the roof?
here is another video on this subject I would use silicone to attach it to the roof GE number 1 ruclips.net/video/RouzkjDNNvo/видео.html
Your cuts in the shed tell me you should stick to painting. Lots of space for the cold or heat to penetrate.
Does this process stop condensation during winter from dripping off ceiling inside shed?
No it does not! I used it in my shipping container/shop. My floors are soaked around the edges where the condensation runs down behind the foam panels.
That's because he didn't leave an air gap. I'm thinking he'd been better off fixing it to his studs. He had a big air gap down on the floor so I'm guessing he has one up high somewhere too.....hot air travels up so some kind of venting at the roof and he should be set if he insulated the entire structure....
What say you?
To avoid condensation you need the air gap to be perfectly air tight, if humid air can enter or escape the air gap then it can condensate. In this case spray foam is better because no humid air touching the cold metal means no condensation.
@@davidstill754 With rigid indulation always a small gap is left, and if air can enter or escape there, it will condensate. To solve this you can use a small can of spray foam and fill *all* gaps, then it will be air tight and no humid air will touch the metal.
no I would not use this for colder climates here is another video ruclips.net/video/RouzkjDNNvo/видео.html
young man ,
u are doing insulation ass backward 4 ' center will fix perfect 4 ' x 8 ' / but u are putting 8 ' x 4 ' is the wring way
Most carport buildings are 5ft center framing walls.
This guy sounds a lot like Chris Pratt to me.
WRONG WAY
your camera is so close to the wall and moving so much it is hard to tell what you're doing. Get a tripod for pete'.s . Quite talking so much and just do the damn thing.
It is cheaper to pay a insulation contractor to install insulation, than buy it and install yourself, because they buy it so cheap.. Shop around for the best price,, than figure out how must it would cost you to just buy it.
are you a contractor?
yea for my house attic for sure. but My shed this is the best deal ruclips.net/video/RouzkjDNNvo/видео.html
I would guess you contract for a living
David Akridge not anymore, but that’s not the point, as a home owner if you shop around the big guys buy in huge bulk so they get it very cheap and pass it on.
@@robertmccully2792 You think I can get a contractor to insulate a 12 x 16 shed cheaper than I can do myself?
That is ten times uglier than spray foam!!!
Low Emissivity
To much rambling
With all due respect, do not insulate your garage like this. This is NOT how it’s done! 🤦♂️
My 11 year old daughter could do a better job.