OMG! I FINALLY found a video detailing BOTH gable ends and showing what happens when you get to the opposite gable and don't land on a rib. Use a furring strip, or plan the roof to purposely land on a rib. Not only did you break that down with perfect details, the entire video was in perfect detail as well. I mean gosh, I wish there were more videos with REAL details like this one. YOU SIR, ALONG WITH MAYBE 2 1/2 OTHER PEOPLE, ARE WHAT MAKES RUclips DIY WORTH IT, especially after searching and wasting hours upon hours watching dozens of videos for weeks looking for a PROPER metal roofing installation video. Literally, 99 percent of these construction videos, whether "professional" or DIY, leave out important details that are needed for people who are actually planning to build. I don't watch these videos for entertainment or just to wind down for the day, or just because I like watching them. I ACTUALLY plan to build, so I need details that most of these wannabe "Home Improvement Show," babbling on about nothing, videos on RUclips leave completely out, which then have me searching for years on end. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS PROPERLY DETAILED VIDEO, I greatly appreciate it!
My late Father was a Sheetmetal worker and I learned a lot of things about the building trades, but your video was so very excellent I must say and now when I roof my old shed I feel 99.9% confident that I will be able to this task with somewhat w/ease, Thank you again.
I love your video the best( I am going to ask my Mennonite friends to do my roof) I couldn’t believe, we’ll I could, you are Amish, thank you 🙏 God for showing me you video thank you too!! From California 🙏🐾🐶🌲🏡
IVE WATCHED MANY VIDEOS JUST TO GET ANY NEW IDEAS AND DETAILS TRICKS MAN DUDE YOU ARE THE WINNER DAM YOUR VIDEO IS GREAT THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME IVE INSTALLED A LOT OF METAL ROOFS AND FOR NEW PEOPLE LOOKING FOR A VIDEO YOURS IS THE WINNER THUMBS UP 😁
Great video thank you, just contemplating a similar but much smaller job. In the UK so using different sheeting, but very similar design, and I'm sure the same principle. You certainly live in a nice part of the world, so much space! take care ,bsst wishes from England
Well that last rib isn't really to hold up the gable ends it mostly to stop water from going to the edge. You can hold it up by the side screws. It's best to measure entire length and devide by 9 inches so a rib don't fall right where that end piece needs to sit flat.
I used two cargo tie-downs to hold my panel in place while I positioned the sheet where I wanted it. I tied one end to the opposite side of the roof and used the hook to hold the panel on the working side. Worked purdy good! :-)
4:12 a gap under the metal that large will make servicing it and getting up on it at a later date to service it without dent or seambdamage nearly impossible. You need to always assume worst case that someone will always just try to walk or crawl up there in an emergency or roof repair
Nice job on the roof. I am building a small shed for my hole house generator and decided to put a metal roof on, as opposed to a shingle roof. The roof is hinged to allow access to the generator inside and the shingle roof was too heavy. This metal roof is much lighter and serves the purpose. I was particularly interested in the gable end caps that you used and how you installed that. Nice job on that. Thanks for posting...Roger
Just a suggestion, on the rake edge you could either cut down the center of the ridge or bend a 90-degree edge in the steel so you don't have wood with possible exposure to water.
I've been roofing in Australia for 25 years, it's amazing how almost everything you did we would do opposite but reading the comments here, if I told you how it's supposed to be done over here I would probably be told I'm an idiot. pan fixing for example is just roofing 101, never screw into the pan, or at the gable end we would fold the edge of the sheet up and bring the barge flashing all the over to the last rib
Almost every manufacturer of roofing here recommends not screwing into the ribs. It’s funny how things are so different. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Sorry no. There’s a building in the back of this video that has a lean to roof with metal roofing. I’m wondering if you used drip edge to do all four sides of that roof as it doesn’t come to a peak at the top? Thanks 😊
@@theweightliftinglab , I used drip edge on the bottom and sides. On the top I used a bent angled piece to cover the roofing and the fascia. I made it 8” coverage on the roofing and I think 6” over the front edge. It’s screwed on to the roofing ridges underneath with roofing screws.
Great video. Thanks! For the "purlins," what type of wood do you use? What are the dimensions? How are apart are they from each other? Much appreciated.
@ thank you, I’m reroofing an actual old log cabin for my son and that’s what I was planning on using, just wanted to make certain, would you recommend a water barrier between the wood and foam like Ice and water shield or is that overkill in your opinion
Thanks for watching. No I did not. The ridge cap is centered on the ridge and screwed through the top of the ridges of the roofing underneath. The screws should be at least 2” long to make sure they grip into the wood purlins along the ridge.
Wouldn't be better to screw on the top of the ribs instead of in the channel, to prevent water leaks? I have seen people screwing on the Ribs, is that right or wrong?
Thanks for watching. I’ve done it that way also. I see no real advantage one way or the other. I just out checked out multiple metal roofing sites and most are similar to what I did.
Old method was to always put on ribs. Most seem to put on flats now. I have repaired more problems with rib screws than with flat screws. Bottom line - your preference UNLESS the metal manufacturer instructs otherwise.
Can anyone tell me why the manufacturer wants butyl tape on the overlapping seams? There is a water channel in the overlap that would be plugged doing it that way! I also believe it's going to distort the overlap connection because that clay type tape will not squish down especially in the cold. Much appreciate the info.
@@Outlaw_kris minimal heat transfer issues compared to laying it on runners over an existing asphalt roof. Most importantly the ice and water shield is a critical vapor barrier because steel sweats and frosts under rapid temperature and humidity changes. Keeping the surface stable also prevents nails from surfacing into the steel on an older roof.
@@Outlaw_kris you never want to lay a steel roof over runners with large gaps between it needs to be able to be re serviced and accessed without bending or damaging the seams
Call local lumberyards or search for metal roofing fabricators in your area. Supply depends where you are. You can also search for pole barn supply companies or pole barn builders.
You’ll have to find a metal roof fabricating company or a building supply that can order it for you. Mine came from Wagler Steel in Lancaster County PA. g.co/kgs/1Zbjmns
Thanks for watching. There’s no way to stop it with exposed fasteners like seen here. Using a good quality metal panel with fasteners spaced and tightened correctly can help minimize it. Metal roofs like this will pop and creak when the the temp changes suddenly.
Shorter sections to overlap are the only way to control expansion on either a standing seam or corrugated roof. It typically is not an issue with panel sections 16 foot or less.
I am sure it seems blatantly obvious.... but uhhhh, its expensive and want to be accurate. I am roofing a 20x20 leanto shed essesntially. Measure from one end to other end and side to side... add 2 inches to each end and each side for overhang? Divide width by size of panels and get the sum total of how many panels I need? If I wanted a panel 18 feet 3 and 5/16s - they will make it that length? I know I said 20x20 - but asking that the metal can be cut specifically to the size I want. Thanks! Very informative video!
Thanks for watching. What you described is correct. However the width of a panel is not the same as the coverage of a panel due to the overlap. Make sure you are using coverage for your calculation. Yes, if you have a metal roofing manufacturer or supply house they will manufacture your panels to whatever length you need. You talk about overhanging the panels on the sides. They do make a gable end trim piece that covers edge of the panels by about 4” over the panel and 4” over tour gable boards. I don’t know if that’s something you can do or not.
Thanks for watching and leaving a question. Most manufacturers recommend metal roofing be attached on the flats. Not only does screwing through the ridge not make use of the washer very well it can distort the roofing when tightened too much. I know of no one in this area, there are dozens and dozens of construction crews here using metal, that screw the ridges. Thanks again.
@@LancoAmish I heard it's better for keeping the roof square and not distorting the roof.. I put my first screws on the flats up top when doing a gable roof.. makes sense to do it on the flats cause it does distort the roof doing it on the ridges.. I'm curious how that goes Long term and do you put paint over your screws when finished?
@@LancoAmish Ok thanks. I used Vic West (Super Vic) on my garage recently and they recommend the ribs for that product. The reason they claim is that if a screw fails the ribs are less likely to leak due to the shape.
Why don’t you also put vertical battens from bottom to top that sit on rafters, that way there would be much more air flow in combination with horizontal battens?
Not a good idea.. you'll have to run your screw tighter to ensure there's no gap because the metals will separate from each other and the wood with your first initial screw.. metal sweats and that extra lap will hold that moisture between the panels.. Hopefully not too many people listened to the "tips" that were given because they will have problems with their roofs
My walmart rugged sharks have sorta a safety grip but I'm only afraid if I think I'm gonna fall.. and on a metal roof it's really way to easy to slide right off. not to use a rope at least . But I want me some magnet shoes for sure
best decision ever, screw it on and then try to cut it. nice video, but there is still few childish mistakes. keep on going and try to do some things wiser next time mate 🤝👌
The holes make it so much easier…no chalk lines to snap to keep screws lined up, no slipping screws to cause scratches that rust, and can reach farther to install the screws. The screws are self tapping but that doesn’t mean drilling is a waste of time.
I always think of the edge ridge as one side has 2 but cheeks and the other has half butt cheeks when working with the roof for over lap the half butt over the full butt cheek. I use loctite polyurethane flashing caulking and Butyl tape too. learned it on my own and watching youtube, the guys at treasure valley steel are helpful to tell you what caulking to use and what not to use for metal roof
@thomasgilliam3104 he's right though, I've been roofing for 25 years and have never heard of pan fixing roof sheets, it made my skin crawl just watching it. you only pan fix wall cladding
@@maxpower1413 Then you been doing it wrong for 25 years. Data has shown the back and forth from expansion and contraction loosens the screws. Also ever roof rake with them screw heads sticking up? They get mangled. Not to mention a lot of ribs are like 1/4" wide at the top so the screw washer would hang out. Put em down flat and tight. Installed correctly, they dont leak.
OMG! I FINALLY found a video detailing BOTH gable ends and showing what happens when you get to the opposite gable and don't land on a rib. Use a furring strip, or plan the roof to purposely land on a rib. Not only did you break that down with perfect details, the entire video was in perfect detail as well. I mean gosh, I wish there were more videos with REAL details like this one. YOU SIR, ALONG WITH MAYBE 2 1/2 OTHER PEOPLE, ARE WHAT MAKES RUclips DIY WORTH IT, especially after searching and wasting hours upon hours watching dozens of videos for weeks looking for a PROPER metal roofing installation video. Literally, 99 percent of these construction videos, whether "professional" or DIY, leave out important details that are needed for people who are actually planning to build. I don't watch these videos for entertainment or just to wind down for the day, or just because I like watching them. I ACTUALLY plan to build, so I need details that most of these wannabe "Home Improvement Show," babbling on about nothing, videos on RUclips leave completely out, which then have me searching for years on end. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS PROPERLY DETAILED VIDEO, I greatly appreciate it!
Thank you so much for watching and the super nice comment. You don’t know how much I appreciate both!!
That’s exactly why I’m here. I’m currently at the opposite end on my roof and don’t want to do it wrong.
I also bought my roofing at Wagler… great product! Did you happen to video any of details of your friend installing the ridge cover?
Well said my friend, thanks for taking up what I didn't say. These words hit the nail on the head
I’m just here wondering why the furring strip is even needed? Screw gable trim to the roof, screw it to the fascia at a 90, don’t step on it.
Finally someone who explains things👌🏽Thank you!
Dude, this is so simple and straightforward.
Tippy top! Love it. I grew up in the south, migrated north and have NEVER heard anyone else use this besides our family! 😂
My late Father was a Sheetmetal worker and I learned a lot of things about the building trades, but your video was so very excellent I must say and now when I roof my old shed I feel 99.9% confident that I will be able to this task with somewhat w/ease, Thank you again.
@@JayTribett-jf9pv Thank you so much for watching and the kind words. I appreciate both greatly. I hope you have a wonderful day.
Out of all the videos I've watched about roofing THIS ONE is the best 🙌
Thank you!!
Great video. I’m installing my first metal roof on my sauna. So glad I found your video.
Finnlander?
You are a good teacher my friend. It may inspire me to build my own or some of it on some mountain property we have some day.
Thank you so much for watching and the kind comment!! Both are greatly appreciated.
Sounds great to have a mountain property and that you can do as you wish without planning permission
Most helpful metal roofing video on the internet.
I love your video the best( I am going to ask my Mennonite friends to do my roof) I couldn’t believe, we’ll I could, you are Amish, thank you 🙏 God for showing me you video thank you too!! From California 🙏🐾🐶🌲🏡
Best roofing video on RUclips
This is exactly what I have been searching for all day! Thank you so much!!
Really useful video. This has helped me prepare for my garage roof installation in the UK. Thanks.
Excellent attention to detail. You work just like me. Love the video. Thanks for posting
Thank you for watching!!
IVE WATCHED MANY VIDEOS JUST TO GET ANY NEW IDEAS AND DETAILS TRICKS MAN DUDE YOU ARE THE WINNER DAM YOUR VIDEO IS GREAT THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME IVE INSTALLED A LOT OF METAL ROOFS AND FOR NEW PEOPLE LOOKING FOR A VIDEO YOURS IS THE WINNER THUMBS UP 😁
Thanks so much for watching and the very kind comment. Both are so very appreciated!
Great video thank you, just contemplating a similar but much smaller job. In the UK so using different sheeting, but very similar design, and I'm sure the same principle.
You certainly live in a nice part of the world, so much space! take care ,bsst wishes from England
Thanks so much for watching and commenting. I greatly appreciate it. Take care!
Stellar video. You're an excellent teacher.
This is the best vid I’ve seen after dozens of videos. ❤
Thank you so much for watching and commenting. Greatly appreciated!
Well that last rib isn't really to hold up the gable ends it mostly to stop water from going to the edge. You can hold it up by the side screws. It's best to measure entire length and devide by 9 inches so a rib don't fall right where that end piece needs to sit flat.
One of the best videos ever!!!!
Thank you so much for watching and the super nice compliment!
Great vid. I only wish I had seen it prior to setting my first panel on my generator shed yesterday. lol
Thank you this video make my day now I know how to really do my roof correctly thank you ❤❤❤❤😊😊😊😊
Thanks for watching. Good luck!
Great video. Way better than the last one I watched!!!
Thanks for watching! Was that one of mine? 😢
Outstanding Workmanship and professionalism topped off with willingness to share his time and knowledge! 👏BRAVO !!!!!
Great video, very informative and practical.
Excellent. Very helpful. Thanks. God bless.
Brilliant. ThankYou. Articulate and detailed
Excellent job.
Great video, super informative simple well explained 💯
Thank you very much for watching and commenting. They are both sincerely appreciated.
I used two cargo tie-downs to hold my panel in place while I positioned the sheet where I wanted it. I tied one end to the opposite side of the roof and used the hook to hold the panel on the working side. Worked purdy good! :-)
Nice idea!! Thanks for watching.
4:12 a gap under the metal that large will make servicing it and getting up on it at a later date to service it without dent or seambdamage nearly impossible. You need to always assume worst case that someone will always just try to walk or crawl up there in an emergency or roof repair
That is a 100 year roof!! Excellent. 😊
Great informative video for diy! Super helpful
I was actually looking forward to watching you installing the ridge cap! Really not that far to the ground.
My ankles can’t handle the slippery. 🤣
Nice job on the roof. I am building a small shed for my hole house generator and decided to put a metal roof on, as opposed to a shingle roof. The roof is hinged to allow access
to the generator inside and the shingle roof was too heavy. This metal roof is much lighter and serves the purpose. I was particularly interested in the gable end caps that you used
and how you installed that. Nice job on that. Thanks for posting...Roger
Just a suggestion, on the rake edge you could either cut down the center of the ridge or bend a 90-degree edge in the steel so you don't have wood with possible exposure to water.
I've been roofing in Australia for 25 years, it's amazing how almost everything you did we would do opposite but reading the comments here, if I told you how it's supposed to be done over here I would probably be told I'm an idiot.
pan fixing for example is just roofing 101, never screw into the pan, or at the gable end we would fold the edge of the sheet up and bring the barge flashing all the over to the last rib
Almost every manufacturer of roofing here recommends not screwing into the ribs. It’s funny how things are so different. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great video👍
Very nice instructions Thank you.
Great Video.
Very nice work
Fantastic video. Incredibly helpful. Ty sir
Very good video. What is under your purlins (radient barrier rigid board insulation, osb sheating, underlayment) ? What? Thanks
3/4” tongue and groove pine then foil faced foam. Check out the videos before this one in the series. I show the application.
Very useful video.
Perfect vid!!!
Really nice!
Awesome video!
For your metal roofing on your lean to roof, did you just use drip edge all the way around with an overhang?
Thanks a lot!
If you are asking about this roof in this video, I used a specially bent "drip edge" at the eaves and a gable end trim on the edges making the peak.
Sorry no. There’s a building in the back of this video that has a lean to roof with metal roofing. I’m wondering if you used drip edge to do all four sides of that roof as it doesn’t come to a peak at the top?
Thanks 😊
@@theweightliftinglab , I used drip edge on the bottom and sides. On the top I used a bent angled piece to cover the roofing and the fascia. I made it 8” coverage on the roofing and I think 6” over the front edge. It’s screwed on to the roofing ridges underneath with roofing screws.
Good job sir
Great video. Thanks!
For the "purlins," what type of wood do you use? What are the dimensions? How are apart are they from each other?
Much appreciated.
i have a dormer gable window what would that cost for material
Can you do that with a wall with texture and paint?
On minute 12:20 wouldn't be better if you place the cut edge underneath the rib, so you don't see the rough edge?
outstanding. Thank You
@@PaulyV56 Thank you for watching and appreciating. Both are greatly welcome and appreciated.
Excellent. Thank you!
What did you use for the base below the purloins? Is that insulated foam board or some other type of waterproofing substrate
The sheathing is 3/4” barn siding then foil faced rigid insulation.
@ thank you, I’m reroofing an actual old log cabin for my son and that’s what I was planning on using, just wanted to make certain, would you recommend a water barrier between the wood and foam like Ice and water shield or is that overkill in your opinion
Ok good job see you on the next one.
Not bad. Thanks for your help.. Cheers
8:48 And if your gabel side and facia side both cannot be happy at the same time, you installed your roof out of square :)
Hello mr... 💪💪👍👍👍good.
Did you do a video on the ridge cap?
Thanks for watching. No I did not. The ridge cap is centered on the ridge and screwed through the top of the ridges of the roofing underneath. The screws should be at least 2” long to make sure they grip into the wood purlins along the ridge.
@@LancoAmish thanks, I was hoping to see how you navigated the roof pitch.
Wouldn't be better to screw on the top of the ribs instead of in the channel, to prevent water leaks? I have seen people screwing on the Ribs, is that right or wrong?
Why not use one long piece of gable trim, bend it and cut a relief at the ridge?
If it came in pieces that long that would work. However, they are 10’2” long. One piece won’t do it.
The gable trim should be one continuous piece at the ridge by cutting a relief and bending around.
Thanks for watching. I’ve done it that way also. I see no real advantage one way or the other. I just out checked out multiple metal roofing sites and most are similar to what I did.
Not sure how you're handling that on a house that's 40ft wide.
Thank you!
How long are those metal sheets??
What’s your thinking in putting the screws in the valleys. In snow and winter where we can get ice …we put screws on top of the ribs.
Old method was to always put on ribs. Most seem to put on flats now. I have repaired more problems with rib screws than with flat screws. Bottom line - your preference UNLESS the metal manufacturer instructs otherwise.
I go with what the manufacturer recommends. They have much more data to go on than anyone.
Screws are going in the valleys.
Flats sandwich together better. The ribs are creased so they aren’t as stable
Manufacturers of this type of panel say screw on valley because metal is thin. Screws have rubber washers to seal hole.
Can anyone tell me why the manufacturer wants butyl tape on the overlapping seams? There is a water channel in the overlap that would be plugged doing it that way! I also believe it's going to distort the overlap connection because that clay type tape will not squish down especially in the cold. Much appreciate the info.
Always lay the steel directly on the roof deck with ice and water shield underneath
Why then you have issues with heat transfer
@@Outlaw_kris minimal heat transfer issues compared to laying it on runners over an existing asphalt roof. Most importantly the ice and water shield is a critical vapor barrier because steel sweats and frosts under rapid temperature and humidity changes. Keeping the surface stable also prevents nails from surfacing into the steel on an older roof.
@@Outlaw_kris you never want to lay a steel roof over runners with large gaps between it needs to be able to be re serviced and accessed without bending or damaging the seams
I live in York county Pa, where did you purchase the roofing material? Lancaster area?
Thanks for watching! Wagler Steel.
g.co/kgs/DkSVrm
Great company. Great people.
I can't find that gable trim anywhere
Call local lumberyards or search for metal roofing fabricators in your area. Supply depends where you are. You can also search for pole barn supply companies or pole barn builders.
Did you do a video of the build?
Yes, go to my channel playlist. I have a multi part series on the entire build and also a single video of the build in very abbreviated form.
Thanks for the video
Where did you buy your gable trim? The big box stores around me do not have that type. The stock I found is raised on both sides.
You’ll have to find a metal roof fabricating company or a building supply that can order it for you. Mine came from Wagler Steel in Lancaster County PA.
g.co/kgs/1Zbjmns
How do they stop these small screws "pulling out" of OSB board or plywood, once the wind has had time to work on them over long periods?
@@sirmalus5153 , thanks for watching…screws should be checked every one or 2 years. I haven’t had any loosen but they can.
How do you Allow for Expansion & Contraction
Using Corrugated roof metal??
Thanks for watching. There’s no way to stop it with exposed fasteners like seen here. Using a good quality metal panel with fasteners spaced and tightened correctly can help minimize it. Metal roofs like this will pop and creak when the the temp changes suddenly.
Shorter sections to overlap are the only way to control expansion on either a standing seam or corrugated roof. It typically is not an issue with panel sections 16 foot or less.
I am sure it seems blatantly obvious.... but uhhhh, its expensive and want to be accurate. I am roofing a 20x20 leanto shed essesntially. Measure from one end to other end and side to side... add 2 inches to each end and each side for overhang? Divide width by size of panels and get the sum total of how many panels I need? If I wanted a panel 18 feet 3 and 5/16s - they will make it that length? I know I said 20x20 - but asking that the metal can be cut specifically to the size I want. Thanks! Very informative video!
Thanks for watching. What you described is correct. However the width of a panel is not the same as the coverage of a panel due to the overlap. Make sure you are using coverage for your calculation. Yes, if you have a metal roofing manufacturer or supply house they will manufacture your panels to whatever length you need.
You talk about overhanging the panels on the sides. They do make a gable end trim piece that covers edge of the panels by about 4” over the panel and 4” over tour gable boards. I don’t know if that’s something you can do or not.
Why did you screw down in the valleys and not on the ridges?
Thanks for watching and leaving a question. Most manufacturers recommend metal roofing be attached on the flats. Not only does screwing through the ridge not make use of the washer very well it can distort the roofing when tightened too much. I know of no one in this area, there are dozens and dozens of construction crews here using metal, that screw the ridges. Thanks again.
@@LancoAmish I heard it's better for keeping the roof square and not distorting the roof.. I put my first screws on the flats up top when doing a gable roof.. makes sense to do it on the flats cause it does distort the roof doing it on the ridges.. I'm curious how that goes Long term and do you put paint over your screws when finished?
😮😮wenn man schon im Tal schraubt ,dann sollte man auch die passenden Schrauben mit großer Dichtscheibe nehmen und keine 3/8" fassadenschrauben!!!
Good job🎉🎉🎉🎉
Why screw the flats and not the ridges?
The flats are manufacturer recommended. Most manufacturers recommend them in the flats. Makes for a more watertight and secure installation.
@@LancoAmish Ok thanks.
I used Vic West (Super Vic) on my garage recently and they recommend the ribs for that product. The reason they claim is that if a screw fails the ribs are less likely to leak due to the shape.
Why don’t you also put vertical battens from bottom to top that sit on rafters, that way there would be much more air flow in combination with horizontal battens?
well done ,thanks
Thank you for watching! Greatly appreciated!
Is it OK to overlap my last panel more than 1 rib to avoid cutting it?
No problem.
Not a good idea.. you'll have to run your screw tighter to ensure there's no gap because the metals will separate from each other and the wood with your first initial screw.. metal sweats and that extra lap will hold that moisture between the panels..
Hopefully not too many people listened to the "tips" that were given because they will have problems with their roofs
no, the sheet will rust out in a few years where it's been back lapped
My walmart rugged sharks have sorta a safety grip but I'm only afraid if I think I'm gonna fall.. and on a metal roof it's really way to easy to slide right off. not to use a rope at least . But I want me some magnet shoes for sure
Metal roofs are murder on the ankles too.
30" Centre to Centre ? i thought 24" was max?
4-6 feet with the heavier gauge roofing. 29 gauge cheapie roofing from Home Depot can span 30”.
Great vid thx
R panel galvalume?
I don’t think so. I’ve never seen it described as such. This comes from a local metal roofing fabricator. 50 year on the paint.
Thanks .
Does bro even heard of ventilation? 😅😅
Does bro care to elucidate or is bro one of those trolls?
best decision ever, screw it on and then try to cut it. nice video, but there is still few childish mistakes. keep on going and try to do some things wiser next time mate 🤝👌
Why not just use self-tapping screws instead of drilling holes in the metal?
The holes make it so much easier…no chalk lines to snap to keep screws lined up, no slipping screws to cause scratches that rust, and can reach farther to install the screws. The screws are self tapping but that doesn’t mean drilling is a waste of time.
At least someone shows how simple it can be .. that over lap at the bottom dont solve anything and allways looks shotty to me ..
Thank you Sir most Helpful 🫡
…and I thank you sincerely for watching and leaving the kind comment.
Ты сделал очень большую ошибку!!! Нет зазора, для проветривания под металлом!!!
Auf den kleinen Hügeln schrauben.
Why are you building a tiny log cabin?
I always think of the edge ridge as one side has 2 but cheeks and the other has half butt cheeks when working with the roof for over lap the half butt over the full butt cheek. I use loctite polyurethane flashing caulking and Butyl tape too. learned it on my own and watching youtube, the guys at treasure valley steel are helpful to tell you what caulking to use and what not to use for metal roof
You should punch the holes all the way instead of drilling
better to put the screws on the rib les chance of water going onto the roof after a few years
You don't know what your talking about.
@thomasgilliam3104 he's right though, I've been roofing for 25 years and have never heard of pan fixing roof sheets, it made my skin crawl just watching it. you only pan fix wall cladding
@@maxpower1413 Then you been doing it wrong for 25 years. Data has shown the back and forth from expansion and contraction loosens the screws. Also ever roof rake with them screw heads sticking up? They get mangled. Not to mention a lot of ribs are like 1/4" wide at the top so the screw washer would hang out. Put em down flat and tight. Installed correctly, they dont leak.
@user-es4mn6ev4t it's how we do it Australia, they have a cyclone washer with rubber neo. put a screw in the pan will not pass certification
👍🏻