I had a "roof guy" install the closure strip without butyl tape. 6 months later I have closure strips hanging inside at the peak of my barn. To bad more roof guys don't know the basics.
Hi I have a double wide 30 year old manufactured home. No attic. I’m replacing all the screws on my 20 year (?) steel roof. When at the ridge I noticed some of the foam was pushed in and missing. Is it important to have those vent strips without an attic? If so Thinking of removing entire ridge and putting in your product. Thanks!
With a non-vented attic, a foam/rubber Outside Closure is typically used instead of vent material. See here for the most popular profile, but you'll want to make sure whatever you get matches: shop.bestbuymetals.com/collections/metal-roofing-accessories/products/3-foot-closures-tuff-rib-outside-or-inside
I think i need to remove my ridge cap and get some of that closure strip. Whatever they used years ago has come out in spots and seeds from my oak tree keep ending up inside my attic.
Do they make a post installation product or recommendations for a pest block AND breathable solution? I don’t want to have to deal with a dissasembly nightmare to install this product. TIA
Unfortunately this needs to go under the ridge cap for a tight seal and wind resistance. You'll want to use new screws to hold the ridge cap in place. You should still be able to reuse the cap itself. I wouldn't feel confident with a solution that is stuffed into the gaps - it might help but likely wouldn't work long term.
so i have a 14x40 shed and its all open inside. and I curios to know if I can use spray foam sealer and close that cap off? I heat and cool my shed due to it being a office and store frontage & im trying my best to seal it off even better from mother nature and her air :) would you recommend that? and if not, any ideas on how to slow that air draft down and my heat leaving as fast? Thanks
I would use caution with products that aren't specifically designed to work with metal roofing systems especially if they have chemicals that may have an adverse reaction with the metal roofing coating.
If the roof decking forms a butt joint at the ridge, i.e., no space at the ridge between the two slopes, should a three inch wide gap be removed from the plywood to facilitate venting?
Do they make a strip that keeps dust out When they put my metal roof on they did not put that stip in and now I have dust getting in my house every time a car goes past my house on the grave road inlive on
The closure would help prevent dust from getting through. That said, do you have an attic? These are designed to allow venting into an attic space. If you don't have an attic usually a non-vented rubber foam closure would be used.
Somehow we missed this. We sell LP2 for the 3/4" high rib in any quantity. We can also Provide the 1.25" high R-Panel profile, but only in full box quantities. Call 800-728-4010.
Hello, I was on your website and was wondering if you prefer this vent over the rolled Profile Ridge Vent or vise versa? I have the classic rib with a 9" spacing 3/4 tall so I could do either product, just want the best long term option?
I'm considering redoing some roofing on a couple of outbuildings that currently have no venting. I'm gathering that my options are to cut 2 inches on either side of the ridge and use a ridge vent and add in soffit vents or put down 1x4 on top of the decking in conjuctiom with a ridge vent or maybe even both? Thoughts? These outbuildings house animals in the winter in the northeast so they are heated during very cold weather but have minimal insulation
Thank You. I had a metal roof just installed and they did not put a seal up there. Said they never use them because the attic would not vent right. I told them I want this seal installed. Waiting on my seals now.
@@tonybradley4561 The vent strips have a built in adhesive on the bottom - some people (about half) still add the butyl underneath, and about half don't. They work well either way.
Inside closure strips are typically solid. You could use expandable foam though profile specific closures will give a better seal and will likely be easier to install.
@@metalroofinguniversity7839 I am asking for a hunting blind I am building. It is just a slanted roof. The entire entire blind is only 6x8. So more luke a small shed. I just want it sealed as good as possible against weather and rodents. I am in North West Ohio. So we get the snow and rain. Sometimes at the same time. Lol.
if you have shingles and plywood and are converting to metal.. then when you cut or over an existing ridge vent you can put 1/4" hardware cloth / screen and its big enough to provide good flow without getting clogged by dust and won't let in bats which are the real problem.. bats can get through a 1/2" gap or as big as your thumb.. obviously bees can get in smaller openings but they are easier to kill with a spray than bats with a shotgun in your attic.. not gonna be pretty heh... just a word of cheap prevention advise. if anyone does know of a spray that kills bats please pass that on heh... considering a commercial bottle of spray foam insulation and spray gun to get um
The tape provides a water tight seal. It doesn't restrict any more airflow than not using tape would because the ventilation material is where the air is flowing. It is best to create a 1 inch gap minimum on either side of the ridge board.
Check here - shop.bestbuymetals.com/collections/metal-roofing-accessories/products/lp2-metal-roof-ridge-vent-closure-tuff-rib Currently $156.25 for a pack of 25 pieces ($6.25 each).
I would have liked to see a REAL demo instead of listening to a lot of chatter. I am experienced with metal installation including ridge caps and vented ridge caps. Your product looks good but you could have done much better for the benefit of the inexperienced installer.
The folded edge is the nail strip? When my metal building was built, they had the foam closure flush with the edge and I would get water behind the foam closure strips. I moved the foam in a little past the folded edge and no more water. is that right?
nice video..
how to replace the closure strips once they have worn out on a 20 yr metal roof
do we take the cap off to replace them or cut and paste
(a) Remove the ridge (b) Replace the closures (c) Reinstall the ridge with new fasteners
I had a "roof guy" install the closure strip without butyl tape. 6 months later I have closure strips hanging inside at the peak of my barn. To bad more roof guys don't know the basics.
Butyl tape is definitely a very important part of any metal roofing system.
Hi I have a double wide 30 year old manufactured home. No attic.
I’m replacing all the screws on my 20 year (?) steel roof. When at the ridge I noticed some of the foam was pushed in and missing.
Is it important to have those vent strips without an attic?
If so Thinking of removing entire ridge and putting in your product. Thanks!
With a non-vented attic, a foam/rubber Outside Closure is typically used instead of vent material. See here for the most popular profile, but you'll want to make sure whatever you get matches: shop.bestbuymetals.com/collections/metal-roofing-accessories/products/3-foot-closures-tuff-rib-outside-or-inside
I think i need to remove my ridge cap and get some of that closure strip. Whatever they used years ago has come out in spots and seeds from my oak tree keep ending up inside my attic.
This will certainly do that, plus allow it to still vent.
Do they make a post installation product or recommendations for a pest block AND breathable solution? I don’t want to have to deal with a dissasembly nightmare to install this product. TIA
Unfortunately this needs to go under the ridge cap for a tight seal and wind resistance. You'll want to use new screws to hold the ridge cap in place. You should still be able to reuse the cap itself. I wouldn't feel confident with a solution that is stuffed into the gaps - it might help but likely wouldn't work long term.
Will this stop wind driven rain from coming up and into the roof ridge?
Yes - this seals between the cap and panel quite well.
Whats the brand name of those closer strips? Those are great.
LP2 Vented Closure - here is a link - shop.bestbuymetals.com/collections/metal-roofing-accessories/products/lp2-metal-roof-ridge-vent-closure-tuff-rib
so i have a 14x40 shed and its all open inside. and I curios to know if I can use spray foam sealer and close that cap off? I heat and cool my shed due to it being a office and store frontage & im trying my best to seal it off even better from mother nature and her air :) would you recommend that? and if not, any ideas on how to slow that air draft down and my heat leaving as fast? Thanks
I would use caution with products that aren't specifically designed to work with metal roofing systems especially if they have chemicals that may have an adverse reaction with the metal roofing coating.
If the roof decking forms a butt joint at the ridge, i.e., no space at the ridge between the two slopes, should a three inch wide gap be removed from the plywood to facilitate venting?
If you have vented soffits then yes that may be something to consider.
Do they make a strip that keeps dust out
When they put my metal roof on they did not put that stip in and now I have dust getting in my house every time a car goes past my house on the grave road inlive on
The closure would help prevent dust from getting through. That said, do you have an attic? These are designed to allow venting into an attic space. If you don't have an attic usually a non-vented rubber foam closure would be used.
If you have a 4"x10" ridge beam bordered by plywood, how does the hot air exit the attic? Do you cut strips out of the plywood next to the beam?
Correct - cut the plywood back about 1.5" on each side.
Hi do you guys have available for R panel sheet metal?
Somehow we missed this. We sell LP2 for the 3/4" high rib in any quantity. We can also Provide the 1.25" high R-Panel profile, but only in full box quantities. Call 800-728-4010.
So I I have baffles in my attic going to vented soffit, I can use solid foam closure strips?
Unless you have vented gables you may want to consider venting the ridge if you have vented soffit to ensure proper circulation.
Hello, I was on your website and was wondering if you prefer this vent over the rolled Profile Ridge Vent or vise versa? I have the classic rib with a 9" spacing 3/4 tall so I could do either product, just want the best long term option?
Both options great options - each with a 40-year warranty. I would say we're probably split 50-50 on preference.
if the ridge vent strip has gaps in it are insects still able to go thru ?
The woven mesh material looks similar to a Brillo Pad and prevents insects from getting in.
If these are installed, is it still possible to see sunlight coming in?
No
I have to wonder if there is a NFA rating on these. It looks very restrictive, add in some dust and debris.
Yes - for both sides of the ridge this is 18.37 in2/ft for the most popular 3/4" rib panel shown.
I'm considering redoing some roofing on a couple of outbuildings that currently have no venting. I'm gathering that my options are to cut 2 inches on either side of the ridge and use a ridge vent and add in soffit vents or put down 1x4 on top of the decking in conjuctiom with a ridge vent or maybe even both? Thoughts? These outbuildings house animals in the winter in the northeast so they are heated during very cold weather but have minimal insulation
It depends how big the space is that needs ventilated. Assuming there are no vented soffits, venting the gable is certainly an option to consider.
Do the screws go through the strip?
Yes - that is best for wind resistance. They will go through the ridge cap and vent material into the rib of the panel.
Thank You. I had a metal roof just installed and they did not put a seal up there. Said they never use them because the attic would not vent right. I told them I want this seal installed. Waiting on my seals now.
Should we use butyl tape under them as well?
@@tonybradley4561 The vent strips have a built in adhesive on the bottom - some people (about half) still add the butyl underneath, and about half don't. They work well either way.
And what about on the easements with the inner closer strips? Are they solid or vented? I am considering using expandable foam. Would this work?
Inside closure strips are typically solid. You could use expandable foam though profile specific closures will give a better seal and will likely be easier to install.
@@metalroofinguniversity7839 I am asking for a hunting blind I am building. It is just a slanted roof. The entire entire blind is only 6x8. So more luke a small shed. I just want it sealed as good as possible against weather and rodents. I am in North West Ohio. So we get the snow and rain. Sometimes at the same time. Lol.
if you have shingles and plywood and are converting to metal.. then when you cut or over an existing ridge vent you can put 1/4" hardware cloth / screen and its big enough to provide good flow without getting clogged by dust and won't let in bats which are the real problem.. bats can get through a 1/2" gap or as big as your thumb.. obviously bees can get in smaller openings but they are easier to kill with a spray than bats with a shotgun in your attic.. not gonna be pretty heh... just a word of cheap prevention advise. if anyone does know of a spray that kills bats please pass that on heh... considering a commercial bottle of spray foam insulation and spray gun to get um
why use tape how much air does it block vs no tape and how big does the ridge gape need to be
The tape provides a water tight seal. It doesn't restrict any more airflow than not using tape would because the ventilation material is where the air is flowing. It is best to create a 1 inch gap minimum on either side of the ridge board.
Price?
Check here - shop.bestbuymetals.com/collections/metal-roofing-accessories/products/lp2-metal-roof-ridge-vent-closure-tuff-rib
Currently $156.25 for a pack of 25 pieces ($6.25 each).
I would have liked to see a REAL demo instead of listening to a lot of chatter. I am experienced with metal installation including ridge caps and vented ridge caps. Your product looks good but you could have done much better for the benefit of the inexperienced installer.
Thanks for your thoughts Jerry, I'm sure we could have improved the demo.
Why say " whats up guys? if you have no intent to give us to actualy answer it?
Thank you for your feedback - we do attempt to respond to comments as provided. I don't see one from you and apologize if it was missed.
The folded edge is the nail strip? When my metal building was built, they had the foam closure flush with the edge and I would get water behind the foam closure strips. I moved the foam in a little past the folded edge and no more water. is that right?
Hmm -- If you could send some pictures I may be able to visualize it a little better. If you want to you can send them to info@metalroofingu.com