Видео

Thanks for your thoughts Jerry, I'm sure we could have improved the demo.

Yes - this seals between the cap and panel quite well.

Sorry friend - we could have done better on that one for sure. In either case the key is to ensure the rubber is compressed but not flattened.

This is a great idea - thank you!

Unfortunately this needs to go under the ridge cap for a tight seal and wind resistance. You'll want to use new screws to hold the ridge cap in place. You should still be able to reuse the cap itself. I wouldn't feel confident with a solution that is stuffed into the gaps - it might help but likely wouldn't work long term.

LP2 Vented Closure - here is a link - shop.bestbuymetals.com/collections/metal-roofing-accessories/products/lp2-metal-roof-ridge-vent-closure-tuff-rib

The closure would help prevent dust from getting through. That said, do you have an attic? These are designed to allow venting into an attic space. If you don't have an attic usually a non-vented rubber foam closure would be used.

A recommendation would be to use roofing grade sealant in the hole first if going back in with the same size screw. Otherwise and in a perfect world, use either an oversized screw in the same hole or a stitch screw (a short oversized screw that would basically just seal the hole, not add holding power).

Thank you for your feedback - we do attempt to respond to comments as provided. I don't see one from you and apologize if it was missed.

Thank you Robert - I appreciate the feedback!

First, a fall protection is always recommended when working on a roof - typically anchored near the ridge for new installation. second, there are options such as SteelWalker magnetic boots that assist in walking on metal roofing. Call Best Buy Metals for pricing - 800-728-4010

Always a balance with snow retention!

Yes - the biggest mistake is when people install fastener type snow guards only above a doorway or similar. Those big snows cause that "V" shape pattern and they fail. In low snow areas less so, but still.

With a non-vented attic, a foam/rubber Outside Closure is typically used instead of vent material. See here for the most popular profile, but you'll want to make sure whatever you get matches: shop.bestbuymetals.com/collections/metal-roofing-accessories/products/3-foot-closures-tuff-rib-outside-or-inside

Check here - shop.bestbuymetals.com/collections/metal-roofing-accessories/products/lp2-metal-roof-ridge-vent-closure-tuff-rib Currently $156.25 for a pack of 25 pieces ($6.25 each).

Full plywood is preferred for this system, with underlayment underneath. There are a few ways to go over 1x4s, but they require very specific planning on both spacing on the first row and rows beyond that.

@@metalroofinguniversity7839 I'm full journeyman carpenter bc Canada now relocated Sierra Leone. No plywood here but 1x14 mahogany zebra wood . A yellow ironwood oaklikewood . Wahy hard I can screw into it I need to predrill. I thought one strip top n bottom I see they use strapping here but I'm doing trusses . They have no idea on truss . Small side roof for ground level apartment. Our main is above and I see 400k to make it

@@ianjaeger4178 Generally if spaced you would place it directly below the step of the tile. Fasteners should predrill, though since they have a cast zinc head you may want to use a spring nut set drive instead of magnetic. Again still have concern with going over open frame due to condensation issues - modern homes typically require solid decking, an underlayment, etc... for the sake of moisture.

Yes, they are designed to self-drill through metal into wood. A different type is available for metal-to-metal which have a drill point on the end instead of a sharp point.

Somehow we missed this. We sell LP2 for the 3/4" high rib in any quantity. We can also Provide the 1.25" high R-Panel profile, but only in full box quantities. Call 800-728-4010.

Underlayment should definitely be used. We recommend a synthetic underlayment, with ice & water shield at eaves and valleys, but follow your local building code. This system is typically installed over solid decking. You can in some cases go over battens, but they must be spaced quite specifically due to the tile steps..

The trapped air space with the battens will be a great benefit regardless of whether you choose painted or Galvalume. Painted has Galvalume under the paint, so has the best of both worlds. The "cool" technology provided by most metal roof manufacturers also results in painting releasing heat faster vs bare Galvalume.

Thank you sir!

Best Buy Metals can provide material pricing - accurately from a blueprint or basic from a Google Map address. For installation you'll want to check with metal roofers in your area. Try metalroofingquote.com for a basic material quote from your address.

Both options great options - each with a 40-year warranty. I would say we're probably split 50-50 on preference.

Yes - for both sides of the ridge this is 18.37 in2/ft for the most popular 3/4" rib panel shown.

Yes - that is best for wind resistance. They will go through the ridge cap and vent material into the rib of the panel.

Thank You. I had a metal roof just installed and they did not put a seal up there. Said they never use them because the attic would not vent right. I told them I want this seal installed. Waiting on my seals now.

Should we use butyl tape under them as well?

@@tonybradley4561 The vent strips have a built in adhesive on the bottom - some people (about half) still add the butyl underneath, and about half don't. They work well either way.

The woven mesh material looks similar to a Brillo Pad and prevents insects from getting in.

I've updated the link - sorry about that!

The EPDM gaskets used are a long lasting quality - also 90-95% of the gasket is covered by the metal washer. Properly installed there should be no need for an additional sealant. It wouldn't hurt anything, but it would be quite tedious.

I’ve thought about this too

From an installer: You just have to snip the flange part off that you screw down and let the other extend over the hips. It takes 2 or 3 tries, snipping a little bit at a time until you get a pretty fit. I don't have any photos showing the process, but if you send me an email I can send a finished photo of a similar product that might help - info@bestbuymetals.com.

@@metalroofinguniversity7839 Thanks! Shooting over an email.

If you already have poor reception, a metal roof can be that one last thing that "breaks the camel's back". If you have good reception, it typically makes little difference.

Yes a metal roof will affect your cell reception.

A PVC pipe with a standard pipe boot is the most common. If you want to use a gooseneck there are some options such as this - masterflash.aztecwasher.com/product/roof-vent-sealing-adapter-multi-flash-master-flash

The most common thicknesses for Galvalume are AZ50 when under paint and AZ55 when left as a mill finish. AZ50 means 0.50 ounces per sq ft of aluminum-zinc alloy coating applied to both sides of substrate, while AZ55 means 0.55 ounces per sq ft of aluminum-zinc alloy coating applied to both sides of substrate.

(a) Remove the ridge (b) Replace the closures (c) Reinstall the ridge with new fasteners

Properly installed, they generally last the 40 years of the roof and up. I still recommend they be inspected at about 20-25 years. The metal umbrella washers on modern metal roof fasteners cap about 95% of the EPDM seal - protecting it from UV rays and allowing them to last much longer vs the old roofing nails where the rubber (usually a lower grade than EPDM) was 90% exposed to the sun. The metal cap is galvanized and painted to match.

With flat pan, it's really hard to say for certain. It could be the cutting of the last panel, or perhaps the fasteners on the Z Trim are a bit over-fastened. There's also a reality with flat pan metal - you can do everything right and still oil canning can occur.

Correct - cut the plywood back about 1.5" on each side.

This will certainly do that, plus allow it to still vent.

Miky, often different Galvalume coils can have a different spangle pattern - that isn't unusual regardless of the coating quality or thickness. I don't know of the best option for a lab for a one-off project like yours unfortunately.

​@@metalroofinguniversity7839 One topic I hoped you would address on your video: is paint coating even necessary if you install a good quality galvalume substrate? Thanks for your help. Also, if you would recommend a roofer & supplier for the Orlando/Ocala area that would be greatly appreciated.

@@powerguymark Galvalume alone has a 25 year warranty. Modern painted metal roofing will always be more energy efficient (especially white) as reflects well but also releases heat more quickly than Galvalume alone. For a supplier, we are brought you you by Best Buy Metals, which provides metal roofing nationwide (bestbuymetals.com). For a roofer, I recommend checking out Angi / Angi's List.

I recommend you look into these products - washsafe.com/. Some people also recommend mild dish soap. In any case, test it on a small less visible area prior to the full roof.

Glad it was helpful! Standing seam is a great system - lots of good videos to get you started on RUclips.

​@@metalroofinguniversity7839what am I missing out on if I just stick with a non painted Galvalume standing seam? I just don't want to spend this kind of money and feel like I cheated myself by not getting a painted product. TYIA

@@powerguymark Galvalume is a great product and highly reflective. The benefits of painted (a) still has Galvalume under the paint (b) along with reflectivity, painted is highly emissive (releases heat quickly, keeping the roof and thus attic space cooler). Either way will produce a great roof.

Excellent feedback!

We missed this question sorry! You'll want to check with the manufacturer on their warranty. Most serious metal roofing providers offer a 40 year paint warranty and 30 year fade/chalk warranty. The 30 year fade warranty most often is measured in hunter units, resulting in about 1 shade of color difference during that time period.

Sorry we missed this question - the best paint I've seen for something like this is Sherwin William's Duration Exterior. It won't have the life expectancy of a factory baked on paint, but still overs a good long-term solution.

No