Great video, thank you. If I can add a thought, when you are using the expanding foam, if you use 2" painters tape on the surface of the metal siding next to each post, when you cut the excess off it will peal away with the tape.
Just had a 30x40 built with vertical sides and this video is what I was looking for to seal it up. Thank you for sharing to all of us looking for guidance!. Great video!
Good video, I put Butyl rubber tape on the concrete before the frames went down to seal out water and bugs. Plus Carolina Carport built my 24X40X12 and lapped the bottom panels over the slab about an inch. Very effective at keeping water out. Silicone always works better when squeezed between pieces. If you use choose to use silicone apply it first then screw the outside panel in the middle to squeeze it, it seals much better. My building just got completed, now it's my turn to get to work.
Thanks so much for the info! The snow blew in on my doors during the storm this week! Those garage brushes look to be the answer to my problem! Thanks for sharing! One thing to add is if you have any rodent problems, you can add steel wool or a wad of metal window screen ( I prefer this as steel wool can rust and cause stains)to the holes at the corner of the siding to prevent a critter from chewing throw the great stuff. Loved the flags you have hanging in the rafters. Going to add some to mine like that! Looks sharp! Keep up the fantastic work! I really enjoy your videos!
Great video! The step-by-step guide on sealing gaps in a metal building is super helpful. The tips on choosing the right sealant and applying it correctly really make the process clear. Thanks for sharing such valuable information! Has anyone tried these techniques on older metal buildings? How did it go?
Like the brush idea. metal buildings sweat moisture between hot and cold day turning to night and vise versa even if you seal the corners of the building of air flow. having a 0.5 to 1 inch gap between the insulation and metal walls with an well insulated attic space that pulls moisture laden air out thru a gable vent along with the wall/insulation air space would be something to consider. Keep the moisture off the metal as much as possible is important. A solar powered gable vent fan is the best way to pull out any moisture faster after a cold night
I had a bad result using the spray foam. As Rain blew in behind the corner flashing it would get on the square metal beam and run down till it found a the floor. I ended up having the same issue with the eaves. I removed the 4 corner flashings and filled in / sealed where the two panels met at the corner and then put the flashing back on. Now any rain that gets behind the flashing stays on the exterior and can't get to any of the interior structure. I think it took me 8 tubes of silicone for a 20 * 20 and I was very generous with the silicone.
I have a very similar building with 3" of concrete extending beyond the panels. I see you chalked just the inside but I'd be concerned that water would come in from the outside and sit under the square tubing and take forever to dry with the inside sealed. I do like the idea of adding fasteners to tighten up the horizontal panels but I would definitely also seal it with Loctite Concrete sealant to keep the underside of the perimeter tubing dry. Once I see no water coming in, then I'd seal the inside.
My concrete has a 3/4" step down from the inside surface to the outside surface and my siding overlaps that. This prevents water from seeping in, I just added the scylicone as an extra measure and to keep bugs out
I started to do that but the contractor told me it would be better if the siding would extend over the concrete so the water would not run under the walls. Did that and no water problem. Also where the doors are I had them to give it a slight slope so the garage was about 3 inches higher than the drive way.
I couldn't figure out what to do about the doors. The brush idea was perfect! The other thing that should be mentioned is how to seal around Gable roofs, where there are diagonal areas that are harder to seal and reqmore foam. foam.
I put my metal building on a gravel pad then poured the concrete inside over the bottom tubes using the walls as forms.i don't get any moisture or bugs or rodents in.
Thank you for the video! This helps me with my big metal garage and my little metal handi-house. One question: how do I keep water from intruding the roll-up door on my garage. The person who had it built didn't have the concrete leveled properly and water gushes into the door opening even with it down and having a rubber seal on the bottom of it. THANK YOU AGAIN! 😊🙏🏻
I tried silicone sealer under my base rails as you did here and it didn't work very well. I then switched to Sika polyurathane - the big tubes - and that worked. It's thin and runs under the base rail. After it dried I went back and ran another bead. I went from having wet floors inside the building to completely drying it in by doing that. Try the polyurethane if the silicone doesn't work for you.
A year and a month since you produced the video. If you don't mind please, how are the brushes on the rolling door holding up? If well, how long do you expect it to last before replacement? Surely weather plays a role in the brush deterioration?
Get the Pro tool for Great Stuff. The cans go a LOT further. It cleans up very easy and you can easily control the foam flow. Because it is so controllable I was even used the foam around the bottom. Get the tool, it is worth it!
What did you do about the ridge vent and where the vertical roof siding meets the walls? Wind driven rain will get in those holes, and/or bugs/mice. I have a similar building. Ask me how I know lol.
Great vid! Thank you for taking the time to share with all of us. One curiosity- why not silicone the outside of the building where the siding meets the concrete as well, in order to keep any water from getting between the siding and framing? Thanks again, just subscribed and will be supporting this channel in the future.
You are correct in that the silicone to prevent water intrusion should go where the water first has a chance of entering. In this case, had he done it outside there would be no need for the second bead inside where the siding and bottom rail meet. The outside took care of that.
@@jamesceja4064 You can do both inside and out. But if you do a good job outside, the inside is a waste of time and money. Make sure your concrete is cleaned well before caulking no matter what you use. Silicone 2 will last much longer than polyurethane caulk outside. Silicone is uv resistant and polyurethane is not.
Thought I'd share what I did in my metal building. I took the outside door latches off and swapped from left to right and mounted on the inside. . Friends also but on his we had to drill two more holes on each side and plug two old ones with bolt and nut. Know they are only accessable from inside. Ps I like the door brush seals .
great video! I have a customer who has water going into his garage and he has a roll up commercial style garage door. He has the brushes all around , but no help, any ideas what could help?
Just finished mine over the weekend. One other thing with the bottom, I am thinking of pulling the bottom back and inserting a flange to help guide water away from the concrete. Only one problem will be at a location where the concrete comes out from the wall too far. But, thanks, I will consider it. Next thing is insulation choices. A friend recommended the spray foam. Not sure that is the best. Ideas?
I had some areas where the siding didn't overlap the concrete properly and I had to add some flashing to the bottom. I have a video on what I used for insulation, check it out. Spray foam is prolly best but it's expensive
@@PatriotDIY AH! Thanks, I have to get the guy to price it out. May be out of my budget with a 30 by 50 by 14 then. I used to work for a resin company years ago and had the foam available to use. Could have done the job myself because I sold the equipment. But, it was carcinogenic and dangerous to work with.
Did u foam the top of the roof where the roof cap is, on my steel building u can see where the light is coming through, just curious how or if u sealed that gap on your building, great video by the way has helped alot
On my metal building, my most troubling spot is the gap along the roof ridge. I get a lot of straw and tree debris coming into my building from this area. Any solutions?
Hey. Fan of your videos. Wanted to see if you did anything special around your windows. I have the same type of building. The top of my windows touches the horizontal 'rib'. Recently, we had blowing wind/rain and all kinds of water came in. I'm pretty sure it's from around the window. Did you try silicone or some type of flashing around the outside of the windows?
4:22 how do you seal the bottom with the concrete that is flexible I live in Florida and I just built a metal shed and I have no clue what caulk or the difference between liquid nails do I use that can anyone recommend?
Does the foam deteriorate after a time? I live in the Deep South where the summers are pretty extreme. Wondering if I’ll have to go back in 5-10 years to scrape out crumbling foam and put new foam in. Thanks for the video!
I spent a lot of time in the desert in the middle east, with summer temperatures above 100 degrees on several days. The foam insulation held up well, sealing metal containers I lived in.
Those brush seals are awesome. I wish I would have shot a bead of silicone along the floor plate before I insulated and covered the walls. Any info about those shutters you have on yours? Those look great.
Great video! Any idea how many cans it takes to fill in the corners? I looked through the comments, but didn't see this anywhere. I'm going to pick some up today and fill in mine tonight, so I'm just looking for an idea of how many cans to pick up.
Great video thank you. 1 question, when siliconing the base rail to keep water out would it make more sense to do this from the outside instead so that water doesn't get under the rail and stay there? Or am I overthinking it?
Both would be great! The best thing is to have a 1in step down lip around your slab and have the siding overlap it so water cant settle at the bottom of the wall. That's how mine is, so water isn't much of an issue for me, I mainly sealed mine to keep out dust and bugs!!
@@PatriotDIY copy that thank you. I did that on 3 sides but on the 4th I extended out for a walkway and that was a mistake because water comes in. Thinking about shoving a silicone backing seal under the base rail then siliconing inside and out. Thanks again!
I got them to put the rolls of foam used to keep sill plate off concrete in homes under my metal building. Anywhere concrete touches metal I got them to put that foam under it.
Did they install flashing on the outside of your shop? To keep the water from coming in between the concrete and metal frame. If not, how has the caulk worked for you on the outside to prevent any water from coming in?
My slab has a 3/4" "stepdown where the siding meets the concrete, so the siding actually sits below the main surface of the slab. No water issues and no need for additional flashing.
@@PatriotDIY ah okay. The house I bought had this shop already here, shop is only a little over a year old. And they did not add flashing to the bottom. Concrete actually sticks out 2 inches on each side and 3 inches on the back side. I’ve caulked it a few times and still no luck on keeping water out. Looks like I’m going to need to add flashing to the outside of the shop to take care of the water. What are your thoughts?
My barndo was finished two years ago, but I don't think the base was sealed. Now that it's finished with drywall/trim on the inside, is there anything I can do to seal it now?
I tried this quad stuff and bought about 7 tubes of this stuff at lowes,they are more expensive than regular sealants.I bought the white stuff and used it all around the perimeter of the building,sealed top and bottom.This stuff does not work!A rainstorm occurred here in Pensacola and in the morning the floor of my 2 car garage was flooded with water!
Well you need to make sure you use enough and get a good seal , it also requires that you have proper grading around your shop and you have the siding overlap the slab like it's supposed to..... This stuff works but it doesn't perform miracles...sounds like you have way bigger problems than sylicone...if you have bad drainage and poor grading or your siding is sitting on top of the concrete without an overlap you need to fix that first !!!!
That's really up to you. It definatly leaves a place for air to escape or to get in and would effect heating/cooling ect. but you just need to decide how much of an impact that's gunna have in your case.
We had a storage unit you could see daylight through the peak opening. Guess how much damage I have from all the storms wind and rain flowing into the gap!!!!!!!
Sounds like your problem Is your siding resting on the top flat of your concrete allowing water to settle and get under the wall. Your siding should overlap the concrete. You will likely need additional flashing on the exterior.
From my experience spray foam is terrible! It's toxic when it burns and it's just a millionaire holes that cause it to leak? Why would they have a building where you can actually see the light through the corners of the walls? It seems like there's very little care done with engineering and designing?
They should have the option for the owner to have a prefabbed rubber composite seal to be installed on all the corners between the metal posts and the metal siding. In this day and age, why isn't this even an option for the owner at construction time
Now I'm officially confused? I just watch a video where they cut two inches off each side of the roof to make a giant hole and now the next video is patching the holes with foam sealant? Isn't that going to cause a massive condensation problem?
Because I'm not insulating with spray foam. And because weather you insulate or not sealing gaps is gunna be a good thing to keep out air, bugs , dust, and water
Dude. This was perfect, especially the bushes on the roll up. Doing all this before I spray foam my shop. THANKS!
Great video, thank you. If I can add a thought, when you are using the expanding foam, if you use 2" painters tape on the surface of the metal siding next to each post, when you cut the excess off it will peal away with the tape.
Thanks for your help great information
Just had a 30x40 built with vertical sides and this video is what I was looking for to seal it up. Thank you for sharing to all of us looking for guidance!. Great video!
Thanks this is exactly what I needed!
Good video, I put Butyl rubber tape on the concrete before the frames went down to seal out water and bugs. Plus Carolina Carport built my 24X40X12 and lapped the bottom panels over the slab about an inch. Very effective at keeping water out. Silicone always works better when squeezed between pieces. If you use choose to use silicone apply it first then screw the outside panel in the middle to squeeze it, it seals much better. My building just got completed, now it's my turn to get to work.
Thanks so much for the info! The snow blew in on my doors during the storm this week! Those garage brushes look to be the answer to my problem! Thanks for sharing!
One thing to add is if you have any rodent problems, you can add steel wool or a wad of metal window screen ( I prefer this as steel wool can rust and cause stains)to the holes at the corner of the siding to prevent a critter from chewing throw the great stuff.
Loved the flags you have hanging in the rafters. Going to add some to mine like that! Looks sharp!
Keep up the fantastic work! I really enjoy your videos!
I had that brush idea in mind for the top of my door, Glad to know it will work before buying one. Perfect video for what I'm dealing with!
Great video! The step-by-step guide on sealing gaps in a metal building is super helpful. The tips on choosing the right sealant and applying it correctly really make the process clear. Thanks for sharing such valuable information! Has anyone tried these techniques on older metal buildings? How did it go?
Thanks for the tip.
Now I can do it to my shop that I just got built.
brush on the door is exactly what I needed.
Thanks for the suggestions. You saved me some time!
Awesome video...exactly what I needed to see. Water has been coming under the seams on both side of the pitch side.
Amazing video and advice! You answered all my questions and even the ones that haven't come up yet.
Glad I could help!
Like the brush idea. metal buildings sweat moisture between hot and cold day turning to night and vise versa even if you seal the corners of the building of air flow. having a 0.5 to 1 inch gap between the insulation and metal walls with an well insulated attic space that pulls moisture laden air out thru a gable vent along with the wall/insulation air space would be something to consider. Keep the moisture off the metal as much as possible is important. A solar powered gable vent fan is the best way to pull out any moisture faster after a cold night
Dude this video is freaking great man!!!! Definitely gonna stick around
Thanks! Glad you liked it
I had a bad result using the spray foam. As Rain blew in behind the corner flashing it would get on the square metal beam and run down till it found a the floor. I ended up having the same issue with the eaves. I removed the 4 corner flashings and filled in / sealed where the two panels met at the corner and then put the flashing back on. Now any rain that gets behind the flashing stays on the exterior and can't get to any of the interior structure. I think it took me 8 tubes of silicone for a 20 * 20 and I was very generous with the silicone.
Thays a good idea, use the foam filler you can buy would probably work great?
Will this help keep bugs out too? Or any other ideas on keepin insects from getting in from around the top and frame of the doors?
I have a very similar building with 3" of concrete extending beyond the panels. I see you chalked just the inside but I'd be concerned that water would come in from the outside and sit under the square tubing and take forever to dry with the inside sealed. I do like the idea of adding fasteners to tighten up the horizontal panels but I would definitely also seal it with Loctite Concrete sealant to keep the underside of the perimeter tubing dry. Once I see no water coming in, then I'd seal the inside.
My concrete has a 3/4" step down from the inside surface to the outside surface and my siding overlaps that. This prevents water from seeping in, I just added the scylicone as an extra measure and to keep bugs out
I started to do that but the contractor told me it would be better if the siding would extend over the concrete so the water would not run under the walls. Did that and no water problem. Also where the doors are I had them to give it a slight slope so the garage was about 3 inches higher than the drive way.
Thank you have a much smaller shed but this solved my problem.
Thank you so much for this video!
Great video. Thanks for the information.
I couldn't figure out what to do about the doors. The brush idea was perfect! The other thing that should be mentioned is how to seal around Gable roofs, where there are diagonal areas that are harder to seal and reqmore foam. foam.
Very useful and straightforward thanks
Just what I needed, thanks.
Hello from Las Vegas Nevada,
Thank you for the video,
GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR FAMILY
GOD BLESS THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
Appreciate this video, got infested with black widows, got to sealed this puppy up.
Don’t be like me and wait seal it up ASAP. Lesson learned.
Thanks for the video man. Gonna get some of this for my building
Do you have any sweating from the metal since the bubble wrap?
I put my metal building on a gravel pad then poured the concrete inside over the bottom tubes using the walls as forms.i don't get any moisture or bugs or rodents in.
Door & window expansion foam is best, will not push out the metal.
Thanks for the tips... Any suggestions for water getting under garage door?
They make a foam rubber closure for that .
Great info thanks
Thanks man!!
Thanks for the video.
Where did you get the dark brush guard for doors.
I have brown trim and have only found unfinished aluminum.
Dam good video🙏🏽
Thank you for the video! This helps me with my big metal garage and my little metal handi-house. One question: how do I keep water from intruding the roll-up door on my garage. The person who had it built didn't have the concrete leveled properly and water gushes into the door opening even with it down and having a rubber seal on the bottom of it. THANK YOU AGAIN! 😊🙏🏻
They make a rubber peice that goes on the floor at the bottom of the door.amzn.to/4azSiEr
Exactly what I needed, the top of my roll up door has a huge gap! I’ll hit those first, and have hit my holes with filler foam. That should help alot
I tried silicone sealer under my base rails as you did here and it didn't work very well. I then switched to Sika polyurathane - the big tubes - and that worked. It's thin and runs under the base rail. After it dried I went back and ran another bead. I went from having wet floors inside the building to completely drying it in by doing that. Try the polyurethane if the silicone doesn't work for you.
I like your comment regarding the Sika product. Is there a specific Sika your referring to? Is it an adhesive?
A year and a month since you produced the video. If you don't mind please, how are the brushes on the rolling door holding up? If well, how long do you expect it to last before replacement? Surely weather plays a role in the brush deterioration?
You won't need to replace the brushes, they won't wear out. I don't think the weather would eat them up, neither.
In later videos, it looks like you added some other stripping on the outside bottom of the metal walls. What did you use?
Huge thank you for these great solutions!
Great video! Do you have any suggestions for the gaps where the side walls meet the roof? We have a pretty large gap there.
You could use rigid foam board? With the spray foam around it to seal it in place.
Pool noodles as a backer rod, sealed in with foam.
Get the Pro tool for Great Stuff. The cans go a LOT further. It cleans up very easy and you can easily control the foam flow. Because it is so controllable I was even used the foam around the bottom. Get the tool, it is worth it!
What did you do about the ridge vent and where the vertical roof siding meets the walls? Wind driven rain will get in those holes, and/or bugs/mice. I have a similar building. Ask me how I know lol.
Great stuff in some spots and My insulation covers it! Everywhere else. Check out my insulation video
What is the best type and size flashing to use at the bottom of metal buildings to keep water out, and where can I purchase it from
Just subscribed and liked from Liberty Hill Texas! We just bought a steel shed and pouring concrete on Friday. --chris
Awesome! And thanks!
You are brilliant
More great information. I’m building a mezzanine in mine, do you have a video on that? Thanks
I don't but more project and videos coming!
How does the carriage door hardware mount on the roll up door ? Great information on sealing these buildings up !
Small bolts and nuts
Great vid! Thank you for taking the time to share with all of us. One curiosity- why not silicone the outside of the building where the siding meets the concrete as well, in order to keep any water from getting between the siding and framing? Thanks again, just subscribed and will be supporting this channel in the future.
You are correct in that the silicone to prevent water intrusion should go where the water first has a chance of entering. In this case, had he done it outside there would be no need for the second bead inside where the siding and bottom rail meet. The outside took care of that.
@@centexan can you do both inside and out? Would silicone the best choice for the outside? Or would Polyurethane work better out side?
@@jamesceja4064 You can do both inside and out. But if you do a good job outside, the inside is a waste of time and money. Make sure your concrete is cleaned well before caulking no matter what you use. Silicone 2 will last much longer than polyurethane caulk outside. Silicone is uv resistant and polyurethane is not.
Very helpful info! Thank you sir! What type of insulation will you be using?
Glad to help! Insulation video here: ruclips.net/video/IFHLiK6NoWM/видео.html
Thought I'd share what I did in my metal building. I took the outside door latches off and swapped from left to right and mounted on the inside. . Friends also but on his we had to drill two more holes on each side and plug two old ones with bolt and nut. Know they are only accessable from inside. Ps I like the door brush seals .
Can I use that caulk on the exterior seal against concrete?
great video! I have a customer who has water going into his garage and he has a roll up commercial style garage door. He has the brushes all around , but no help, any ideas what could help?
amzn.to/3kxMas8
Any suggestions on flashing near the exterior base to deflect the water from coming in?
Just finished mine over the weekend. One other thing with the bottom, I am thinking of pulling the bottom back and inserting a flange to help guide water away from the concrete. Only one problem will be at a location where the concrete comes out from the wall too far. But, thanks, I will consider it. Next thing is insulation choices. A friend recommended the spray foam. Not sure that is the best. Ideas?
I had some areas where the siding didn't overlap the concrete properly and I had to add some flashing to the bottom. I have a video on what I used for insulation, check it out. Spray foam is prolly best but it's expensive
@@PatriotDIY AH! Thanks, I have to get the guy to price it out. May be out of my budget with a 30 by 50 by 14 then. I used to work for a resin company years ago and had the foam available to use. Could have done the job myself because I sold the equipment. But, it was carcinogenic and dangerous to work with.
@PatriotDIY how would i seal where i put a window ac unit in
Did u foam the top of the roof where the roof cap is, on my steel building u can see where the light is coming through, just curious how or if u sealed that gap on your building, great video by the way has helped alot
No but it is covered by my insulation. I have a video on that too
mine has birds coming in.. 🤬
On my metal building, my most troubling spot is the gap along the roof ridge. I get a lot of straw and tree debris coming into my building from this area. Any solutions?
They make them for the ridge cap to. Easy install I have installed them on my metal building
Thank you!
Love the video man! Where you get the brush seals?
Thanks! Links in the description
@@PatriotDIY I got it!
Great Video! one question. I would like liquid nails instead of screwing the nail into the aluminum. what do you think.
Hey. Fan of your videos. Wanted to see if you did anything special around your windows. I have the same type of building. The top of my windows touches the horizontal 'rib'. Recently, we had blowing wind/rain and all kinds of water came in. I'm pretty sure it's from around the window. Did you try silicone or some type of flashing around the outside of the windows?
I havnt had any issues around my windows so nothing special there.
4:22 how do you seal the bottom with the concrete that is flexible I live in Florida and I just built a metal shed and I have no clue what caulk or the difference between liquid nails do I use that can anyone recommend?
Did you paint those brush seals black? All the ones I see are bare metal and I need black for my black trim. That black looks great.
Painted!!
How about big gaps in corrugated metal sheets roof? About 3 to 4 inch gaps.?
What can u use for water getting in the gaps
Does the foam deteriorate after a time? I live in the Deep South where the summers are pretty extreme. Wondering if I’ll have to go back in 5-10 years to scrape out crumbling foam and put new foam in. Thanks for the video!
No you shouldn't!
I spent a lot of time in the desert in the middle east, with summer temperatures above 100 degrees on several days. The foam insulation held up well, sealing metal containers I lived in.
Those brush seals are awesome. I wish I would have shot a bead of silicone along the floor plate before I insulated and covered the walls. Any info about those shutters you have on yours? Those look great.
Shutter video: ruclips.net/video/1HItrSnSCYI/видео.html
Thanks for watching!
can not find the black brush seals. where did you get yours?
Link in the description
Great video! Any idea how many cans it takes to fill in the corners? I looked through the comments, but didn't see this anywhere. I'm going to pick some up today and fill in mine tonight, so I'm just looking for an idea of how many cans to pick up.
I went through at least 6 or more
@@PatriotDIY thanks!
Great video thank you. 1 question, when siliconing the base rail to keep water out would it make more sense to do this from the outside instead so that water doesn't get under the rail and stay there? Or am I overthinking it?
Both would be great! The best thing is to have a 1in step down lip around your slab and have the siding overlap it so water cant settle at the bottom of the wall. That's how mine is, so water isn't much of an issue for me, I mainly sealed mine to keep out dust and bugs!!
@@PatriotDIY copy that thank you. I did that on 3 sides but on the 4th I extended out for a walkway and that was a mistake because water comes in. Thinking about shoving a silicone backing seal under the base rail then siliconing inside and out. Thanks again!
I got them to put the rolls of foam used to keep sill plate off concrete in homes under my metal building. Anywhere concrete touches metal I got them to put that foam under it.
@@jordanpiesmith so did the foam work by spraying it under the base???
@@mikerucki278 I used the foam rolls that were for sill plates. It's blue and made by dupont
Did they install flashing on the outside of your shop? To keep the water from coming in between the concrete and metal frame. If not, how has the caulk worked for you on the outside to prevent any water from coming in?
My slab has a 3/4" "stepdown where the siding meets the concrete, so the siding actually sits below the main surface of the slab. No water issues and no need for additional flashing.
@@PatriotDIY ah okay. The house I bought had this shop already here, shop is only a little over a year old. And they did not add flashing to the bottom. Concrete actually sticks out 2 inches on each side and 3 inches on the back side. I’ve caulked it a few times and still no luck on keeping water out. Looks like I’m going to need to add flashing to the outside of the shop to take care of the water. What are your thoughts?
@@xDonaldDuckx10 yep!! Gunna need flashing!
@@xDonaldDuckx10 how did you flash your shop? I have the same issue with mine.
@@xDonaldDuckx10 where you able to resolve the issue of water seeping under the base rail? what did you use that worked?
Do they go all over states putting up?
My barndo was finished two years ago, but I don't think the base was sealed. Now that it's finished with drywall/trim on the inside, is there anything I can do to seal it now?
Maybe from the outside?
@@PatriotDIY That's kinda what I was thinking. Thanks for your help. LOVE the video!
How would you seal across the bottom of the doors?
Door sweep
How did you fill in the gaps above the doors?
I don't have any gaps above my walk in doors. The gap at the top of the roll up door is filled by the brushes
I tried this quad stuff and bought about 7 tubes of this stuff at lowes,they are more expensive than regular sealants.I bought the white stuff and used it all around the perimeter of the building,sealed top and bottom.This stuff does not work!A rainstorm occurred here in Pensacola and in the morning the floor of my 2 car garage was flooded with water!
Well you need to make sure you use enough and get a good seal , it also requires that you have proper grading around your shop and you have the siding overlap the slab like it's supposed to..... This stuff works but it doesn't perform miracles...sounds like you have way bigger problems than sylicone...if you have bad drainage and poor grading or your siding is sitting on top of the concrete without an overlap you need to fix that first !!!!
I think it would be ok, but is it ok to leave the peak of the ridge with openings? I can see light through some of mine.
That's really up to you. It definatly leaves a place for air to escape or to get in and would effect heating/cooling ect. but you just need to decide how much of an impact that's gunna have in your case.
We had a storage unit you could see daylight through the peak opening. Guess how much damage I have from all the storms wind and rain flowing into the gap!!!!!!!
what size building is this?
caulk or cement is the best way to fill them
yep i did the same thing putting silicone down it does not work water is still coming through
Sounds like your problem Is your siding resting on the top flat of your concrete allowing water to settle and get under the wall. Your siding should overlap the concrete. You will likely need additional flashing on the exterior.
Quad is "elastomeric polymers and high quality synthetic resins" not silicone based. More of polyurethane
Not to hate on you. Thats why I decided to get my own insulated garage door. I'm getting an actual garage door not the roll up
That's definatly the way to go!
But don't you want them left open so when you insulate you have air travel behind the insulation to keep it from sweating
What are the dimensions of this building?
30x40 plus 12x35 side room
Why didn't you sell it on the outside I see that you sealed on the inside only
What kind of window trim is that?
Or water comming in
👍
From my experience spray foam is terrible! It's toxic when it burns and it's just a millionaire holes that cause it to leak? Why would they have a building where you can actually see the light through the corners of the walls? It seems like there's very little care done with engineering and designing?
They should have the option for the owner to have a prefabbed rubber composite seal to be installed on all the corners between the metal posts and the metal siding. In this day and age, why isn't this even an option for the owner at construction time
Now I'm officially confused? I just watch a video where they cut two inches off each side of the roof to make a giant hole and now the next video is patching the holes with foam sealant? Isn't that going to cause a massive condensation problem?
No condensation problems here! Building was insulated after this.
I'd rather have plastic flamingos in my lawn than fake magnetic hinges on an overhead door.
You are in luck!! amzn.to/3BOUGr3
Do you think your watch is big enough?
Could be bigger
@@PatriotDIY that's what she said.
Wait until the paper wasp and ants eat it up.. Then tell how good it is
Why waste your time if you're insulating it especially with spray foam it'll fill those holes in at that time.
Because I'm not insulating with spray foam. And because weather you insulate or not sealing gaps is gunna be a good thing to keep out air, bugs , dust, and water
Air gaps will negate all insulation, no matter what you do. Always fill air gaps
Thank you for the video!