DIY Clear Coat Repair
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- My 2005 Honda Element had some clear coat issues and some small rust spots on the tailgate. In this video I show how I repaired these with tools most DIYers have. I also show how I ‘blacked out’ my emblems without damaging the vehicle finish.
I’m not a paint or body repair technician, I’m a mechanic, I’m sure I could have done better, but I’m very happy with the results of my efforts, especially the blacked out emblems. No matter what, I hope you find the information useful.
In addition to the clear coat repair, I also try and realign the hatch as well as upgrade my tail lights to LEDs.
Thanks for watching!
#ETCGVideo #ETCGWatson #HondaElement
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For that orange peel, keeping your rattle can warm may have helped. Also, a minor compound and polish would probably knock that down enough that it’s not noticeable.
"original ones are stupid expensive" says the guy that spent 120 on a emblem 😂
Honda should support and make it cheaper, it's for Honda itself. More company logo will be out there.
if 120 is not stupid expensive, then how much is stupid? ... lol
the element oem spoilers go for like $700 used now its crazy. the side steps are also super valuable
@@lafave2555 I bought an aftermarket one painted nighthawk black same as my Element for around $250 fit perfect. Easy install as Honda was nice enough to add the areas where you need to drill.
@@lafave2555 side steps come in two withs the widest being 5 inches I think. I didn’t know that and bought the smaller one I think it’s 3-4 inches wide which is pretty useless for passengers getting off and on. I would like to get a wider one.
Why didn't you used 2k clear from a rattle can? It's more durable and will look shinier. Just a tip for future paint repairs
Also more hazardous to your health with out proper protective gear lol. I would stay away from that stuff and leave it up to a professional painter. The chemicals in the 2k clearcoat seem extremely toxic with out a mask and suit.
Nonsense. For no more than he's painting, a 3m cartridge mask and an open bay door or exhaust fan would be fine.
@@mccoma11 might want to do a little research but hey it’s your health not mine. Do as you please.
@@Speed04GT I know all about it. I use cartridge masks (half-face and full-face) daily, as well as scba while working with extremely dangerous chemicals. I also, as a hobby, use 2k coatings/epoxy primers often. I have a complete set-up with compressors, sanders, several pneumatic guns, and even a turbine unit for spraying everything under the sun. A correct-fitting 3m style mask with the right cartridges would be plenty for a job that small, as long as there is good ventilation.
But you are correct that it can be dangerous. It's pretty bad stuff and you don't want to be breathing it.
My suggestion for older washer hoses and plastic tube removal. This works for me. I use a heat gun to heat up at the connection I am trying to separate. Being plastic, most of them turn soft with just a bit of heat and greatly reduces the risk of breaking or damage to brittle parts.
Great suggestion. Thanks!
120USD FOR THE EMBLEM?!? that's like 1 month worth of groceries for where I'm from.
Crazy right? Someone is making a serious markup on those few grams of material...
Definitely a rip off.
Thats just the life of direct ordered OEM parts. Rear suspension bolt for an Accord I worked on was $17 and $6 for the nut. Comeplete rip off. Much better to go get the part from the manufacturer if possible Aisin, Denso etc
As a body guy, I have to tell you this was painful, but this is mild compared to the butchery seen elsewhere.
Such as the botched repair I inherited where acrylic clear coat was sprayed onto my Ford's enamel clear coat as a 'blend' at the right rear. It's only a mil thick but nothing detaches it. Arrrgh
love the guy an his channel, but man I hate seeing this. I feel like people know nothing about our trade an don't appreciate the skill an hard work involved in actually doing a good job. everybody just sees videos like these an assume its that easy.
@@awildtravis588 I suppose it could be both - people like Eric (and I) can be OK with this DIY compromise and also appreciate the perfect work that body professionals do. It just may not be the priority for every repair to be perfect on personal vehicles
@@FliesLikeABrick
Yeah I agree, Eric is not going to dump 5 figures into doing a total body repair. A perfect example would be concours-level Porsche that Larry Kosilla (Ammo NYC) owns.
@@awildtravis588
A concours level restoration would be well into 4/5 figures.
That clearcoat result does NOT look good... It may be a sub-par product (the brand used, that is). Then again, perhaps a buffing post-clear would have helped. I don't think I would have sacrificed "good" for "done", but who knows. Cheers and good vid nonetheless.
I did my clearcoat touchup using Duplicolor from Pepboys. I can't tell ANY difference from factory. But yes, Prep, sand, prime - paint- then polish. Results were worth it.
I remember doing bodywork on cars in the 70s and all of those lovely metal emblems that were installed with either barrel clips or speed nuts. There were holes in the body panels for the pins to pass through and the barrel clips would cause rust to start around each of the pins. The speed nuts were especially annoying because they were very difficult to access. Sheet metal stampings had lots of sharp edges back in those days and I left lots of DNA samples behind. Japanese cars were among the first to start using glue on emblems which was fine by me. They weren't really expensive to replace at the time so it made my job much easier.
"Did all that work and I never washed it well that's just kinda how I am"
Feel you
I have owned one of my vehicles for 8 years now, and have never washed it. However, it's a Saturn with the plastic body panels so getting off salt and such is not so much of an issue.
Ya, I am more of a "runs pretty" then "looks pretty" kind of guy!
Yeah, I noticed those dents and figured out how they got there. Couldn't decide whether to comment on those but then you 'fessed up at the end of the video. Anyway, your work turned out nicer than mine usually does. And you're absolutely right about insurance and bodywork involving emblems/badges/etc. In my experience, they even mask around decals - which ends up looking like complete crap.
Congrats, that came out better than 95% of body shops would have done.
lol no. maybe most shady shops that dont even have a compressor. I can do a better job outside in my yard
@@v8consumption Not so, I have paid for body/paint work that was really crappy.
@@peterfernandezjr5914 That is straight up false. Speaking from 15 years of experience in the field, any self respecting professional wouldn't even present an end result like that to a customer. Eric did a great job with the tools and supplies he had and he is happy with the end result but please don't ever say 95% of the body shops do a worse job than that.
@@KoMDraegast I guess where you live the body shops are better than where I live. I have experienced lousy repair work on my own cars. Including misaligned hoods, trunk lids and paint that did not last very long in the hot Fla sun. And since insurance companies don't inspect the work, they only care about saving money, these body shops could care less.
@@peterfernandezjr5914 Saving money is part of the profession but allowing obvious mistakes like that to slip would never happen here. I'd probably get fired if I maintained a standard like that.
Whenever i put my emblems back, i just measure with a pair of calipers to find the corners of the emblem from two pieces of tape with dots that i place outside the work area. So like on the lights, or the window.
Works really nice and cannot fail nor does it get in my way. If you leave the tape large enough, you can write on the tape the two top corner measurements. Generally, i just write one, and leave the calipers set on the other.
Why didn't you remove the H emblem b4 painting, like you did with the Element one?
It would be difficult to locate in the proper position otherwise.
Great video and very similar to my outlook with bodywork. I never try to get it perfect, I just want it better than it was. Just one important comment for your viewers. It's not a great idea to sand between coats of clear. It is better to put all the clear on and then sand. First it has to be good and dry to sand, and second you need to have a decent amount to sand or you burn through. The last stage is always "cut and buff", which means sand with high grit sandpaper until flat then buff with polishing/rubbing compounds. I almost always skip this because I don't care, and it drives my brother crazy. Keep up the great videos.
ERIC YOU ARE DOING IT WRONG :-) jk
At least Eric is producing interesting video every week, unlike some other channels.
@@teddybear2123 Got me there
@@myRatchets You did a lot better with all the correct steps on your paint job videos. They were an excellent starting part for an at home enthusiast.
😄
Eric, they MAKE LED turn signal bulbs u dont need resistors. Precision or Lasfit brand? U live in rust belt like me & I WANT ppl to SEE me in bad weather! (plus they look neat!) I installed on my prius & I LOVE it. I LOVE ur personalizing ur element! I shows a sign of loving/caring for vehicles. I've always loved Elements! Hondas & Toyotas rock to me. Ur such a down to earth guy! Love the video as usual!
Meh, I'm not really worried about people seeing the turn signals. Thanks for the heads up and the comment.
On camera at least, that color looks literally the exact same. Congrats!
I'm an appraiser for an insurance company. We always pay to remove emblems for panel refinishing along with handles, belt mouldings, etc.
You sir, are an exception in my experience.
FYI, that lower section of the tail gate has been painted previously. I imagine the gate and gate opening got a bit tweaked in the collision and the body guys said oh well good enough.
My mechanic OCD is going crazy so gotta ask...why did you remove the "element" emblem but not the "H" emblem before painting?? Your new clear coat surface is already peeling at the top of emblem. Also it looks like you did not wet sand the the tailgate surface above the "H". New paint adhesion might be a issue.
Lmao.. clear out the tip so you don't get spitty bloopy things...🤣🤣🤣 ETCG 2021.....
I'm no expert, however I think I would have just removed all the emblems and sanded it all down so I wouldn't have to try to get not only the paint to match, but the clearcoats. For the emblems, just measure left or center of each from one side of the door and from the floor. I would naively think 15 minutes to clear the emblems, and then a cheap planetary sander with a few higher grit papers should have had it ready for prime and paint in 30-45 minutes tops. Yes, everyone's an expert on the internet...
To preserve its location. That's one thing I didn't want to get wrong.
Ahhhhh……just a light wet sand and compounding after the clear coat would have done wonders and wouldn’t have taken that long, maybe an hour of work to look 100 times better.
Can I do it? 🤨
Am I the only one who finds those flashing 3rd brake lights obnoxious? I think it should only flash under hard braking.
the panel need to be sanded to 600-800 on every place where new base and clear paint will be. if it's shinny it wont hold. For the clear use 2k clear with punch calatys in the bottom it's the easier for can paint with a perfect result you clear is like the duplicolor one and it's bad with a lot of orange peel but there base color is close. check paint society here on YT it's a great channel about paint, he has diy can paint tutorials. Also you should mask more of the car overspray can go far before it dry flying. I dont blame you i have been throught that before, now I paint in gun primer and clear but use can for the base
If you have a headlight restore buffer wheel laying around you could get a quick polish to help reduce the orange peel
Eric has a da polisher
Or use trizact 3000
When I'm king those flashing brake lights will be eradicated. They are overly distracting and alarming in 99.999% of the cases where people are using their brakes.
Really like how the tint ("smoke" ?) in the rear glass accents the black emblems :-)
I believe your hinges are over extended. They might be bent past their original geometry. Someone may have over extended the rear liftgate out of frustration after they smacked their head off it......But that's what happened to mine. Luckily you can compare it to your other one.
Love the blacked out emblems on that paint looks very nice @EricTheCarGuy
Speaking of Honda…
My wife’s brand new N-Van will be here in 2 weeks!!!
Have you heard of those? Retro looking and very practical!
Unfortunately only JDM. Luckily that’s where I am 🇯🇵!
😉
No, but they sound really cool. The JDM Honda market gets all the cool stuff it seems. Good luck with the new van.
3M Press in Place Emblem tape: ruclips.net/video/wa8p2SoV9bc/видео.html My other tip is 2X Clear Coat by 'Spray Max Clear Glamour in a spray can that mixes the activator when you are ready to paint.
It's raw and just shows that not everyone has the expertise at everything. Even the great ones make mistakes. I liked the video. 🤙🤙
Paint/body work is hard
Eric is like me, we are mechanics not body/paint guys. There is a reason why their are just mechanics and just body/paint guys. Body/paint guys are artists.
Try 3M adhesive remover for that left over gunk after you use the eraser wheel. Usually remove badges with an application of heat gun, fishing line (same idea as your twine), and finish off with the 3M stuff. Works wonders.
I've used goo be gone or goof off. Way easier than using either of those eraser discs.
15 minutes with heavy scratch rubbing compound, some polish, and an orbital buffer will fix all that.
Good results for non-bodyshop DIY stuff. Way better than it looked when you started, and that was the whole goal.
I'm anal enough and crazy enough that I would've removed the emblems, then block sanded and painted the entire tailgate. 120 grit, primer, 240 grit, more primer, 400 grit, color, 800-grit, color, 1000-grit, clear, 1500-grit, clear, then a cutting polish. And I would've been there for three whole days doing it, too. Would've been completely unnecessary overkill on a vehicle like that. LOL. Your way is 90% as good and takes far less time. :-)
It's really great when someone 'gets it'. It is my winter car after all. Thanks for the comment.
Changing my reverse lights to LED on my vehicles has been a tremendous help for my horrible night vision
LED headlights are causing horrible night driving problems, though ...
It really does not take much more time to wet sand it with 2000 and buff it by hand with polising compound to make it look way better. You do not need to do it right away either
Auugh! You dented in the top right corner of the liftgate, hitting it with that dead blow hammer and/or the heel of your hand... :/
Nice color match job Eric! Those black emblems look much better than the chrome! As for LED turn signals, they seem more of a pain getting them to work.
Good thing that Eric doesn't do body work and point ofetn..lol
My third brake light cover did the same thing! It still worked so i drilled a hole in the broken tab and zip tied it.
After watching your videos. I want to get out and work on our Civic. Great videos.
You should have gotten 2k clearcoat but otherwise good job
Lacquer thinner is great for over spray (shout out to Sweet Project Cars)
I put my spray paint cans in hot water. Naturally you get little more pressure in the can is the results.
Yay! My hood coat looks like trash. Perfect timing 😜
You should have scuffed the whole thing before painting. That is why the paint separated around the badge. Also, before sticking the badge you could have hit the lid with some 1500 wet sand paper and the use a bit of polish for extra shine. The colour match is amazing for something done at home.
I use a little denatured alcohol on a rag to remove adhesive residue. It works great!
My favorite and most effective way to remove decals and adhesive from paint on vehicles is to use a steam cleaner to melt and gently wash away the residue. It works! Not only is it relatively quick, it also doesn't harm the surface underneath as the steam doesn't get too hot.
WD40 works great for taking off adhesive glues!
I once had a can of an adhesive remover intended to remove adhesive residue and stubborn self sticking labels. That stuff worked great, I think it was just something like orange oil in a spray can. Also smells great ;)
A few tips for you related to this video.
Your initial sanding grid was a 120, usually that's fine for an initial sand but it will leave scuffmarks in the finished product so always go from 120 grit to 220 and then 320 and use a sanding block so you dont create low spots where you sanded out the rust spots. This grid is fine enough that when you put a primer on top of that, the paint sticks to the panel but the viscosity of the paint removes any trace from the sanding. Once that is done you can sand the primer down with a 600 grid and you can sand down the rest of the panel where you didnt have to use body filler or remove surface rust with a scotch brite pad and some scotch brite cutting compound and some water, this works faster than using a regular wet sanding 600 or 1000 grit but the end result is the same and you will have an even finish when you are done with painting.
Where you ended your tape masking, use some plastic floor covering (when repainting walls or whatever) or any plastic or news papers you have laying around, this helps limiting overspray to the sides and top of the roof and any other unwanted areas.
As for the orange peel you have now, once the paint has hardened out after a few days you can go over that with wet sanding 1500 grit or higher until you get through the roughest bit and then you can use a polish pad machine and 3 steps of cutting compound to get that finish shiny again.
One of those pointless dent repair guys could probably spend 15 minutes on that dent and you’d never know it was there.
They're very good i wouldn't call them pointless :)
3 coats of clear, let dry overnight, wet sand next day with 600 grit. Clean and apply two coats of clear
Eric you seam to be right in your element. lol
Beautiful job
An alternative to painting the emblems would be to foil wrapped them. This is less work and less likely to chip off.
It's so relieving seeing that even Eric does mistakes (like hitting to hard with the hammer) and he's ok with it. I'm such a perfectionist but most of the times i make mistakes and it's so hard to accept them. I would have sanded down that tailgate trying to make it look just as good as the rest of the paint for hours and hours....😌
I don't have the time for that. Or, it might be better to say, I don't feel like spending my time that way, Especially on my winter car. However I'll spend $120 on a stupid emblem and paint it. Even I don't understand it. Thanks for the comment.
Nice 50-50 paint job. Looks great from 50ft at 50mph.
For a winter car, that's perfect.
Now all the plastic trim needs some ceramic or back to black to really finish things off!
Actually, I like that its grey. Probably could use a good cleaning though. Thanks for the comment.
I have used that brand of red flashing bulbs. They are nice while they work. Over time, something in the connector breaks and you can sometimes wiggle the bulb or flip it in the socket and it will work again for a while.
I've replaced them once now, and kept the old ones, one day I might see if I can open it up and figure out where the connection breaks.
Here we call those things show lights, because that is all you can use them for. In Europe in general and especially in Germany using light bulbs on the exterior that do not have a KBA or ECE number (That would be sort of the German or European Agency comparable to the DOT) you would void the vehicles operating permit and it would be no longer street legal and could be shut down. After which you have to bring everything into a street legal configuration again and get it inspected (which costs quite a bit on top of a hefty fine).
I guess that might be true for some states in the US as well (kind of).
Not only that there are no legal LED alternatives for most lights available here (There are a few options for either H4 or H7 headlights that can be legally used with certain vehiclesfrom currently exactly one brand as it seems), and I am not sure if the manufacturers never tried to get those certified or if they just never passed. Which is kind of weird to be honest. The blinking part is a no go as well.
@@alexanderkupke920 they are legal here as long as the housing brightness and color is correct. Blinking is permitted as well, for an initial number or length of time. The biggest issue I've had with this brand is the contact trends to break on the bulb causing it not to light.
vegetable oil on a rag removes adhesive, then wash with soap and water.
It does yeah. I use 3m adhesive remover though. Its like magic.
looks great. buff it next month and is done.
Love how you always experiment with different supplies and materials just to see what works best. Awesome video good work without having to pay body shop price.
Damn plastidip would've been a cheaper and just as good solution for those emblems.
But I have 4 cans of Eastwood chassis black and no plastidip.
@@ericthecarguy ah yes, I am familiar with that situation.
Your paint match is better than the body shop.
Had my element is 2006, 328,000 miles later still love it
Shit… 3 weeks late. I just did this on the hood of my xc-90.. it looks amazing but could of used a few pointers.. great clip Eric, thanks
And another great video Eric! I am currently battling tailgate rust on my 2010 Ford Escape. I'm doing almost exactly what your doing and I found that hitting it with 1000 grit between coats is working great. I went with the body lines for transition from grey to factory "silver ingot" and achieved a cool "tu tone" look. Found that cool effect by accident since the factory colors are delayed in shipping! Lol! Stay dirty my friend and thanks as always for the great videos!
Would go much faster if unbolted the tailgate and using a da sander.
Just measure the emblem locations first and mask the inside and the window.
Much easier to get a even sanding too.
Tailgate is clearly out of wack anyway so it would not do any harm to unbolt it from the body.
That''s my 2 cent anyway.
Wait about 1 month, lightly hand rub whole car with Maguire's Ultimate Compound.
It will blend all together. Clay bar & wax, make whole car pop.
Looks good enough 😁👍🏽
I’m looking at the lift gate lines looks like it’s actually pushed upwards in certain areas the way certain body lines are but it lines up where it shouldn’t if it’s pushed up in others since you couldn’t get it adjusted at the hinges I’m definitely going to say the lift gate itself is what’s bent probably at the top near the glass where it naturally bends. looks like it was pushed in during whatever collision and someone pulled it out rather than replacing the whole thing.
I did a similar setup with LED brake/running lights and reverse lights on my TSX I just didn’t wanna do that whole resistor thing like I did with my truck 🤷♂️. I really like that flash 3X 3rd brake light LED I think I’m going to swap my LED 3rd with one of those too 👍🏽
Rust converter?? Also, I'd let the base coat dry and out gas overnight. Also would let the clear dry off and cure for a couple days, inside and then compound/polish before taking it outside
1500 followed by 3k on that orange peel, followed by compound on an Orange foam pad or a microfiber pad with something like 3D One or TLC compound and bye bye orange peel
Nicely fixed paintjob :)
This is probably the job I've done most often to my cars in the past, removing rust spots and touch-up painting them with spraycans :) After the final clear coat, I used to polish it with rubbing compound for more glossy finish & to feather it in to the original, surrounding paint. Finally wax it with new car wax.
When everything came together perfect, it looked pretty good for amateur painter like me, even if I say it myself :D Quite satisfying work :)
Goo-gone spray and your plastic razor would work better than those erasers. Automotive Touch up has better (IMO) paint and clear (for touch-ups). Love the Element stuff. Trying to find one here in SE Indiana that isn't too rough.
Replaced the old incandescent tail light bulbs with LED counterparts on my wheels, Choosing a red LED will make it so it will glow a vibrant red color, slightly dimmer than if you choose the regular white LED, the lights will indeed be brighter but at a less "red" color.
Also scuffing the chrome on the element badging was a good move, I tried painting my chrome trim on the doors but the paint just peeled right off even though i gave it sufficient time to somewhat cure. learned something new, :Thumbs up.
I have an o 04 and added a 06 grill and painted the grill and emblem black. I also added ld reverse bulb. Plus an aftermarket rear spoiler that I installed. I added an led for the 3rd brake light. However after seeing your 3rd brake I fell in love with it! Going to get it. Now if you would just add a supercharger or turbo that would really be great so I can follow in your foot steps 👍
Didn't I see a glass bead machine in your shop? I would have shot the emblems with glass bead primed and painted them. But I'm a use to be auto body technician, retired air compressor technician now but still paint motorcycles from time to time. Yea the body work and paint takes a lot of patience, the more you have of it the better things turn out.
As far as the final finish is concerned if all you need is a 10 foot finish then go for it. It's your car.
The only thing that can not be scrimped on is the preparation work.
The look of your finish and how long the paint stays on is all in the prep-work.
Good video Eric Looks better then it did defenitly can see the orange peel new paint don't have a Mirror Finish like the rest of the vehicle paint but wow that color match is dang neat spot on wow so close 👌 👏👍@EricTheCarGuy
Instead of wet sanding the orange peel away, you can do a compound cut + polish pretty quickly. That's what i usually do for quick rattle can repair jobs on bicycles.
I think you should look into Cerakoting the black trim. Its easy and would make that trim pop nicely with those accents.
Great job with the body work and detailed tutorial which was very helpful. Not my specialty but nice to see how it is done
Thanks again Eric, you have done a fantastic project only few DIYers attempt. 😃
TRY GOO-GONE TO REMOVE ADHESIVE.
Wetsand then polish...
You can definitely tell where you hit it with a hammer, lol
its one way to close the gap
With the 'ELEMENT' emblem, I would have created a template from tape from the bottom side of the emblem that fit the shape of the door below it, marked where the emblem went in relation to my template, then removed the template ever so gingerly, and stuck it to the inside of the glass. Then when you are done with your body repair/re-paint, simply stick the template to the lines on the door and VOILA. perfect placement of your new emeblem.
Another vehcor subscriber here. :-)
I was taught to use the prep (PrepSol back then), before any sanding. Otherwise, the wax and other things that would be removed by the prep get sanded in.
Dental floss and heat gun or hairdryer for removing emblems, and goof off if any residue left.. The best. HELLO MASSIVE OVERSPRAY... Why didn't you take off that Honda emblem in the beginning?
Eric great improvement love what you did thank you for sharing your wonderful videos I am from South Africa
Next time find something to prop the hatch on and remove the shocks to adjust. Most of the time the shocks will actually push outwards and it almost looked like that was happening in the video. So remove shocks, adjust, then re install shocks.
Glad to see you back as your regular chipper self, Eric. Please enjoy a couple of digital cupcakes made especially for you...🧁🧁
Why bother spending so much on new emblems just to spray bomb them? Why not run to the hardware store and pick up some thinner 3M double sided sticky tape for less than $10.00? Much cheaper than $120.00? If you break an emblem getting it off, then you hit the pick ‘n pull junkyard! Save your money for the mechanical part that is gonna fail next week?
WD-40 removes adhesive.
One thing we often did to correct orange peel, was to lay down at least 3-5 coats of clear coat, then wet sand it and polish it up. Works really good most of the times!
Anyways, nice job Eric!
Sanding down the final clear as flat as you can without removing too much it works too, you'll have to compound and polish it afterwards and it'll come out pretty well.
Great video Eric thanks
Nice job. The only problem i see is your clear spray is crap. I've had great success with (spray max 2k clear) it has a harder in it. You pop it on the bottom to mix it and shake. I did my jeep fender with it. Added 3 coats. It was an amazing job for my 1st time doing body work. Give it a try. its about $20 a can.