This video really goes above and beyond in terms of providing free, valuable information to the internet community. This saved me a HUGE headache and solved what was a very difficult problem to visualize. I mean, who knew all the hinges were different? Or that clearance at the top could be adjusted with a simple screw untightening and retightening? Fantastic!
We're glad you found it helpful, Charles! We seek to provide the best information possible on garage doors and door repair, so we're always glad to hear kind words like yours.
you are the best,it took me a day to install my garage doors after watching this it took me two minutes to adjust ,my doors gap . they work perfect. thank you,thank you ,thank you.
This video was just the ticket; I am having my driveway redone and the plan was to bring up the level of the floor where the garage door bottom meets. I knew this would result in the top of the sectional door no longer sealing tightly against the frame since it was effectively going to change the point where it stops, and was thinking the whole track would have to be raised by the difference in order to maintain the same seal. On the upper roller bracket for my door, the gap adjustment wasn't as apparent, as it used a single carriage bolt with the nut on the top, where I couldn't see it, so I didn't know it was normally adjusted using that slotted adjustment. After seeing this video, I saw the light- :) I was considering changing the floor level just to avoid having to remove the tracks to raise it up the 3/4", but now I can do it properly- Yay DDM, thanks-
Hi DTR RTD! We're glad to help, and glad to hear that you've been able to adjust your top fixture to get your door to line up with the new level of the floor.
First video that solved and addressed my problem in a long long time. Spot on my dude thank you thank you. I played myself and bought some cheap aftermarket top rollers from Lowe’s. They were blinding so bad the inside of my roller tail looked like a nascar track! Thanks again
Thanks for the comment, Kipp! We're glad that we were able to help you solve the problem that you were having with your door. We would agree with you that cheapest isn't always best. There are some parts that can "work" with your door, but may stop working fairly quickly after you replace them. We're glad you were able to get that fixed! Blessings!
We're glad you were able to pinpoint the problem, bfjb70! We try to describe as many issues as we believe have been normally seen in garage door operation, in hopes that someone fixing their door will be able to source the problem they're having.
Thanks. My door binds. I found out on this video that all the hinges are different. the middle 2 are switched. Mine have a different numbering system with bottom hinge as #1. I will switch them and hopefully it will work.
I've been a garage door installer service man for quite a few years. Interesting to pick up a few things here in your video. 1 of your suggestions is to use quick closers, to minimize #3 hinge breaking. Problem I saw, or at least the video had shown the quick closer w/the stru above it. How it the garage door going to open with the strut above said quick closer??
Hi Mark! We hope that this proved to give you some helpful tips, even with years of experience. As we always say, there is always more to learn about this industry! Well, with these quick closers, or low-headroom top fixtures, there are some modifications that need to be made in order to make them work properly, so that the door can open. As you said, this cannot happen if you simply use the strut as is, and don't modify it. Here is our tutorial on how to do this, for you future reference: ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instructions/low-headroom-modification-for-steel-garage-doors.php We hope this better explains how that part is accomplished!
We're glad that both of you were able to find our video! We're looking into other tags that we might be able to use to improve the ability to find our videos on RUclips.
How do you reinforce that corner of the panel? The metal inside is sagging and pulling away from the door. I have 1/4 flat alumn to brace it but there is no place strong enough to screw it into the panel. My right side tracks ar position to far out. Cause the door to ride futher out on the roller's end shaft.
Hi Justin! It sounds as though you may have to simply replace that panel at some point soon, because without something to keep that corner together, the top fixture will eventually pull away and you will not be able to re-attach it at all. You could try adding a strut to that section first, but if that doesn't work, the full replacement of that section is probably your best bet.
Hi Mechotronic! These were installed incorrectly. The door can still function, but it will not be gapped correctly, and the sections may have strange spacing in between them.
I just installed an (Ideal Door® Carriage House 16 ft. x 7 ft. Ultra-Grain® Dark Oak Premium Insulated Garage Door, with Rectangular Windows) I've installed many doors & I am having an issue i have never stumbled across before. The door feels heavy for the first 2' (at least 40lbs) when lifted manually but as it gets half way up, it really shoots up & is also hard to pull back down but as it gets 2' from the ground it drops. I really don't get it. I understand if a spring is too weak the door won't raise and too strong it will shoot up. Both are occurring. Someone please help me
The springs are too weak for the door. Let me explain. I'm assuming it is a "standard lift" door, not a "vertical lift" or something like that. On a "standard" lift door, the spring must lift exactly the weight of the door at the bottom and about 0 pounds(a little more) at the top. If you take a weak spring, and you put enough turns on it to "balance" it in the middle, then it will stay in the middle, but be heavy on the bottom and "hot" at the top because it's too weak for the bottom and has too many winds at the top. If it is a standard counterbalance system, you will have 4" diameter drums, which means they are about 12" circumference. So 1 turn of the drum & spring = 1 foot of door travel. 7 foot door = 7 turns on the spring or 28 one quarter turns. normally you add 2 or 3 one quarter turns for a total of 30 or 31 on quarter turns just so you have a little holding power up top. In any torsion setup, there is a narrow range of winds that are proper for the door, and if those winds don't pick up the door, or the door picks up too easy, the springs need to be replaced. This is for a torsion spring system. If you have an extension spring system, those springs are simply sold by door weight and come in 10 pound increments. If you have a 150 pound door, you need two 150 pound springs(one on each side). I know, you're thinking that is 300 pounds of force, and you are correct, but that is cut in half by the pulleys on the springs.
Hi christos! It definitely sounds like you have the wrong springs for your door there. It sounds more like your springs are too weak for the door based on the information you're giving. The door being heavy for the first few feet is a problem usually seen with springs that are too light for the door, and the door shooting up is a problem of too weak springs as well. You should refer to our blog on this for other things to look for to help determine this. ddmgaragedoors.com/blog/2015/11/03/a-balanced-garage-door/
Hi Scott! The first thing we would recommend is that you check to make sure that the correct hinges are connecting the bottom section to the one above it. If that bottom section doesn't have #1 hinges attaching it to the section above, there will be a gap between it an the next section. You may need new hinges for the bottom section if this is the case.
I have been putting cardboard by the rollers to help keep the heat in my shed. Thanks so much for some clues that might help fix my roller problem. The professionals who installed it are not helpful.
That happens sometimes, vanhouten64. There are times when the sequence gets thrown off. Next time you have your door worked on, it might be best to switch those back around if they are incorrect. What's the sequence from top to bottom currently?
![Garage Door Rollers and Hinges Replacement [How to *2019 Updated]](/img/1.gif)
This video really goes above and beyond in terms of providing free, valuable information to the internet community. This saved me a HUGE headache and solved what was a very difficult problem to visualize. I mean, who knew all the hinges were different? Or that clearance at the top could be adjusted with a simple screw untightening and retightening? Fantastic!
We're glad you found it helpful, Charles! We seek to provide the best information possible on garage doors and door repair, so we're always glad to hear kind words like yours.
you are the best,it took me a day to install my garage doors after watching this it took me two minutes to adjust ,my doors gap . they work perfect. thank you,thank you ,thank you.
Thank you for the kind words, joey! We're glad to be able to help!
Excellent . Just what I was looking for. Simple and clear. Thanks.
Thank you for watching, rocktillipop! We're glad you found this information helpful.
This video was just the ticket; I am having my driveway redone and the plan was to bring up the level of the floor where the garage door bottom meets. I knew this would result in the top of the sectional door no longer sealing tightly against the frame since it was effectively going to change the point where it stops, and was thinking the whole track would have to be raised by the difference in order to maintain the same seal.
On the upper roller bracket for my door, the gap adjustment wasn't as apparent, as it used a single carriage bolt with the nut on the top, where I couldn't see it, so I didn't know it was normally adjusted using that slotted adjustment.
After seeing this video, I saw the light- :)
I was considering changing the floor level just to avoid having to remove the tracks to raise it up the 3/4", but now I can do it properly- Yay DDM, thanks-
Hi DTR RTD! We're glad to help, and glad to hear that you've been able to adjust your top fixture to get your door to line up with the new level of the floor.
Thanks for the help. Whatever so and so installed the top fixtures upside down 😂 your video helped me to adjust the header Gap the right way!
Hi Ryon! We're glad you were able to make this fix on your door!
EXACTLY THE VIDEO I WAS NEEDING TODAY 👏 thank you👏👏👏
Of course, Max! We're glad that you found it to be helpful!
Very helpful with the upper roller bracket adjustment. Thanks
We're glad you found this helpful, Jason! Thanks for watching!
Outstanding video! Well done, thank you!
Thank you, Jeff for the kind words! We hope you found this video to be helpful!
First video that solved and addressed my problem in a long long time. Spot on my dude thank you thank you. I played myself and bought some cheap aftermarket top rollers from Lowe’s. They were blinding so bad the inside of my roller tail looked like a nascar track! Thanks again
Thanks for the comment, Kipp! We're glad that we were able to help you solve the problem that you were having with your door. We would agree with you that cheapest isn't always best. There are some parts that can "work" with your door, but may stop working fairly quickly after you replace them. We're glad you were able to get that fixed! Blessings!
Great explanation, thank you. Our door was installed too tight, and with wear it has started to bind. This was the problem, thanks!
We're glad you were able to pinpoint the problem, bfjb70! We try to describe as many issues as we believe have been normally seen in garage door operation, in hopes that someone fixing their door will be able to source the problem they're having.
I was about 5 seconds away from calling a garage repair person! Saved me $
Glad we were able to help, Max!
Extremely helpful. An older DIY video, but still EXCELLENT!
We're very glad you think so, James!
Thanks. My door binds. I found out on this video that all the hinges are different. the middle 2 are switched. Mine have a different numbering system with bottom hinge as #1. I will switch them and hopefully it will work.
We hope that this video proved helpful to you, Dev! Hopefully you were able to stop your door from binding.
Very helpful! Thank you!
Thanks for watching, Andrew! We're glad that you found the video to be helpful!
Thanks Dan helped a heep!
We're glad the video was able to help, John!
Thank you for saving me money ..
We're happy to help, alexander! We hope this has your door working well again!
Thank you so much Sir .!
Thank you for watching, acccjj!
Perfect! Thank you.
Thanks for watching, Raymond!
I've been a garage door installer service man for quite a few years.
Interesting to pick up a few things here in your video.
1 of your suggestions is to use quick closers, to minimize #3 hinge breaking.
Problem I saw, or at least the video had shown the quick closer w/the stru above it.
How it the garage door going to open with the strut above said quick closer??
Hi Mark! We hope that this proved to give you some helpful tips, even with years of experience. As we always say, there is always more to learn about this industry! Well, with these quick closers, or low-headroom top fixtures, there are some modifications that need to be made in order to make them work properly, so that the door can open. As you said, this cannot happen if you simply use the strut as is, and don't modify it. Here is our tutorial on how to do this, for you future reference: ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instructions/low-headroom-modification-for-steel-garage-doors.php
We hope this better explains how that part is accomplished!
I suggest you tag some other things like "adjusting garage door tracks", I had a hard time finding your video. And add to your title!
I found it as a top result for "garage door rubbing on frame", and this was the fix.
We're glad that both of you were able to find our video! We're looking into other tags that we might be able to use to improve the ability to find our videos on RUclips.
How do you reinforce that corner of the panel? The metal inside is sagging and pulling away from the door. I have 1/4 flat alumn to brace it but there is no place strong enough to screw it into the panel. My right side tracks ar position to far out. Cause the door to ride futher out on the roller's end shaft.
Hi Justin! It sounds as though you may have to simply replace that panel at some point soon, because without something to keep that corner together, the top fixture will eventually pull away and you will not be able to re-attach it at all. You could try adding a strut to that section first, but if that doesn't work, the full replacement of that section is probably your best bet.
My hinges are in the order 1, 3 ,2. Is this on purpose, or was it installed incorrectly?
Hi Mechotronic! These were installed incorrectly. The door can still function, but it will not be gapped correctly, and the sections may have strange spacing in between them.
I just installed an (Ideal Door® Carriage House 16 ft. x 7 ft. Ultra-Grain® Dark Oak Premium Insulated Garage Door, with Rectangular Windows)
I've installed many doors & I am having an issue i have never stumbled across before. The door feels heavy for the first 2' (at least 40lbs) when lifted manually but as it gets half way up, it really shoots up & is also hard to pull back down but as it gets 2' from the ground it drops.
I really don't get it. I understand if a spring is too weak the door won't raise and too strong it will shoot up. Both are occurring. Someone please help me
The springs are too weak for the door. Let me explain. I'm assuming it is a "standard lift" door, not a "vertical lift" or something like that. On a "standard" lift door, the spring must lift exactly the weight of the door at the bottom and about 0 pounds(a little more) at the top.
If you take a weak spring, and you put enough turns on it to "balance" it in the middle, then it will stay in the middle, but be heavy on the bottom and "hot" at the top because it's too weak for the bottom and has too many winds at the top.
If it is a standard counterbalance system, you will have 4" diameter drums, which means they are about 12" circumference. So 1 turn of the drum & spring = 1 foot of door travel.
7 foot door = 7 turns on the spring or 28 one quarter turns.
normally you add 2 or 3 one quarter turns for a total of 30 or 31 on quarter turns just so you have a little holding power up top.
In any torsion setup, there is a narrow range of winds that are proper for the door, and if those winds don't pick up the door, or the door picks up too easy, the springs need to be replaced.
This is for a torsion spring system.
If you have an extension spring system, those springs are simply sold by door weight and come in 10 pound increments.
If you have a 150 pound door, you need two 150 pound springs(one on each side).
I know, you're thinking that is 300 pounds of force, and you are correct, but that is cut in half by the pulleys on the springs.
Hi christos! It definitely sounds like you have the wrong springs for your door there. It sounds more like your springs are too weak for the door based on the information you're giving. The door being heavy for the first few feet is a problem usually seen with springs that are too light for the door, and the door shooting up is a problem of too weak springs as well. You should refer to our blog on this for other things to look for to help determine this. ddmgaragedoors.com/blog/2015/11/03/a-balanced-garage-door/
I have a large gap only at my bottom panel. All the other panels are flush. How can I fix this issue?
Hi Scott! The first thing we would recommend is that you check to make sure that the correct hinges are connecting the bottom section to the one above it. If that bottom section doesn't have #1 hinges attaching it to the section above, there will be a gap between it an the next section. You may need new hinges for the bottom section if this is the case.
Thank you!
Thank you for watching, SwinginRichard!
I have been putting cardboard by the rollers to help keep the heat in my shed. Thanks so much for some clues that might help fix my roller problem. The professionals who installed it are not helpful.
Hopefully this was helpful for you, Kater!
LOL! Whoever installed the garage door at my house did not install the top two hinges in proper sequence! 🤣🤣🤣
That happens sometimes, vanhouten64. There are times when the sequence gets thrown off. Next time you have your door worked on, it might be best to switch those back around if they are incorrect. What's the sequence from top to bottom currently?
@@DDMGarageDoors They had the middle and top hinges switched on one side. I was able to swap them thanks to your video!
@@vanhouten64 we're glad to hear that! Hopefully your door is working better now!