Lubricating the overhead spring will make it much quieter also. Simply spray silicone or wipe the spring down with motor oil. Stops the noise when the spring loads and unloads from opening and closing of the door. #2...get a belt garage door drive unit.
After replacing nylon rollers, inserting sleeves and lubricating the garage opener, the garage door becomes much less noisy. Thanks a lot, FIx This House!
The issue I have with those sleeves is they're usually too tight in the roller carrier, yes they do prevent rattle, they also prevent the roller from freely moving in and out of the carrier as the door travels up and down. The reason why you want the roller to freely slide in and out is because the track is not guaranteed to be equal distant from the door the entire travel, if the door gets hung up on anything and if the rollers cannot freely move your door will get torn up. Some of the earliest models of sectional garage doors had fixed rollers, the moment the garage shifted, or any damage to the track, the door would not function.
They didn't look tight at all. as a matter of fact he even wiggled them. But thanks for the info on why they are made loose as I was trying to figure ways to stop mine from moving all together. So you likely save me from a huge problem down the road. I am still coming up with diy fixes to silence the door.. I was thinking of painting the inside of the track with a rubberized paint or some type of sylicone. because that makes noise too. thanks for sharing your understanding of the wheels.
@@colleenscottcarmello5103 does the track make noise or the roller rolling through the track make noise? If you have steel rollers or if you have a bearing assembly to the roller and the assembly is getting worn out and the wheel can pivot from side-to-side it'll make a rattle noise similar to that of a baby rattle. A small bit of wobble from side-to-side is usually not an issue but once it gets to be more than 15° from side-to-side it'll start to make noise, generally once they can pivot 30° that's when I highly recommend replacement because they're about completely fall apart.
I received my sleeves today and installed! AMAZING! I have a wall mounted opener so now the garage is totally silent! The only issue I have was not being able to put the sleeves on the top roller, but I'm totally satisfied! Thanks for a great video!
I recently purchased a set of your plastic sleeves. They were NOT equal in dimeter. None were too large, but some were too small. I ended up splitting the small ones to make them work. It's obvious they are VERY cheap, so you should at least supply them in uniform size. That being said, I believe they did help some. At the same time, I also replaced the rollers as you suggested, insulated the door, installed "GREEN" spring loaded hinges, and adjusted the main spring tension. It is now the smoothest, quietest and best insulated garage door I have ever had.
Hi! Thank you for the support! Please email me and I can send you replacement for free with ones that are a little more snug to the fit. Here is my email: fixthishouse1@yahoo.com
Dude, I really like your style. Well spoken and no wasted words and the me. Just like me. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us because no matter how advanced our skill set there are a million more things to learn. All the best my brother.
DO NOT TAKE THE TRACK OFF…TAKE THE HINGE OFF. ONE GOOD BLAST OF WIND YOUR DOOR IS NOW DANGEROUS. Also if you can’t spin the roller the track is to tight. 30 year technician here. You can bend the top a bit on the middle of radius (the top flat part not the j portion) and just push up and the rollers pop right out where the small bend is made.
Mr. Quantum Techcrypto, I have a quick question. Are you aware of a standard style garage door like the one in the video (two car, 4 panel about 7' tall) that is capable of not leaking rainwater from between the panels when opening? I have a garage workshop with several cast iron machines that I would like to prevent water from dripping on and rusting them. My wife's car still needs to be parked in there, so I have no choice or say in the matter, LOL. I do cover them, but a door that was sealed between the panels would be better. Side or edge runoff can be addressed if necessary. Any info would be helpful. All the Best, Chuck.
@@toolchuck Are you seriously asking someone how to not get your garage door wet??? Because when the door is in the open position gravity does its thing, and the only way to get water to not drip from the door when it's open would be for the door to not get wet in the first place. My advice, build an overhang.
I find it's easier to make a Bend in the vertical track where it meets with the horizontal. And then for the top roller I just pop it out of the horizontal track with the door in the half open position. 17-year technician here by the way
@@pauldefillippo8490 Yes I am, I thought you, being a "30-year technician" would have some insight on the matter. I'm not asking about the door getting wet, I'm asking about keeping it from leaking/dripping between the panels as it is opened after getting rained on, and no, an overhang in my situation like others is not an option. It is a common complaint for many as garages aren't always used for cars, as you should know. As always, All the Best, Chuck
@@toolchuck I'm not the one with 30 years experience, I only have 17. I know the complaint that you are referring to sir, I have been asked it before. I am not aware of any solution to the problem that you have posed. A tongue and groove door would work better than a shiplap door which would definitely be better than a ball and socket style panel profile. The reason why there's no solution is because when the door opens the panels will separate so even if there was a gasket between the panels water still has an opportunity to flow around the gasket as the panels separate. So again the only way to truly prevent it would be to not get the door wet in the first place or wipe it down. You could try stretching a tarp or some visqueen underneath and between the track so that when the door opens it would drip onto the plastic. Other than that I don't know what you could do to the door that would prevent the water infiltration.
I have the quietest electric garage door...at leat in my neighborhood and it's fairly aged and used daily. The secret is grease. Grease everywhere just to the point that it doesn't fall onto the floor or cars. Also a properly adjusted door opener chain goes a long way too as well as side supports from the walls to the rails using angled channel track. This makes the whole set-up more rigid.
Luv these green hinge have had on my garage for 5 yrs works great keeping cold / heat out have seen m in industrial doors throughout my travels as a trk driver great prod 👍
🙉3M Silicone Paste is great for garage door rollers/pins. (it's the best stuff for car/truck brake caliper pins for that matter) It's also great for drill bits when you're making "custom holes" in your garage door tracks and/or brackets.
Right?! I noticed the same thing. Check out "Jay's How To Channel" with his video titled "Hush, Garage Door! How to Make Your Garage Door Whisper-Quiet" - he shows you more about this and isn't trying to sell you anything. ALSO he cleans the rails, something this dude didn't do and all his changes had a 15 db change in noise levels.
Question! When you open the garage door all the way, and you see that there is no tension on the steel cable, can you unscrew the last hinge to replace the roller? or do not touch that ever! ?
Great video but you didn't show 2nd method of removing each wheel separately instead of the rail. That is the safer method (although more time consuming).
There's many ways that the decibel meter may have been improperly comparing. If he wasn't standing in the exact spot. If there was more noise inside or outside the house, including wind. Overall, I assume the sound decreased, but the decibel meter can be tricky.
Thank you. I ended up use your idea and used black color Boba tea straws with my new DURA-LIFT Titan 12 rollers. Fits like a glove and result very quiet and smoothly opening and closing.
One by one, remove a hinge, inset the new wheel and replace the hinge. Anything else and you’re endangering yourself and probably going to end up calling a professional to fix the problem. If the simple swapping the rollers by doing a hinge is too difficult, you aren’t qualified to do it yourself, or the parts don’t fit. Have an EMT or Paramedic on speed dial, if you don’t know what you’re doing, it’s nearly guaranteed you’ll be needing one
A "7/16 millimeter" socket? I've been wrenching on everything from wagons and bicycles to B-52 bombers for the past 50 years and I've never heard of such a thing lol
Just got mine and none of them will go on all the way..! They all just seem to tight, some went half way a couple only 1/3 of the way before it binds up then if you push hard it collapses !
@@kendallevans4079 I agree. I used a utility knife to split the tight sleeves and they seem to work okay. Not the quality what I expected for $20, though. Quality for price is VERY poor. Just saying...
oh god; its not dangerous, Ive done it a number of times. Instead of sounding the danger alarm, like some panty-wasted hos, just say what to do and recommend getting spring bars and dont use rebar.
May I ask how you replaced the dangerous bottom roller? The Fixthishouse person seems to have not responded to this question from others. I prefer not to remove the vertical track. Thanks in advance!
Would just filling the track with a 1mm or 2mm thick strip of rubber also be good enough to dampen the sound? Then you wouldn't have to worry about removing the wheels and it would be a quick and simple install? Or will it fail too easy due to weather/seasons?
Don’t use anything in the track not even grease. Install seal to seal the door that’s its job not the wall or the track. If you can’t spin the roller the track is to tight against the wall.
Plastic sleeves fit over the roller shaft easily but I’m having trouble getting them back into the split-pin tunnel. Any tricks here. I’ve collapsed two trying to push them in the tunnel. I’m planning to wedge a shim into the split of the pin/tunnel. Got two on with struggle. Ideas??
AWESOME video! Good job on this. It made perfect sense and provided great explanations. Thank you so much. I subscribed just so I never miss your videos.
If you order the plastic roller sleeves, be aware of the ludicrous delivery times. Mine were shipped 8 days after I entered my order and arrived 7 days after that, a total of 15 days. For a shipping charge of $8, I would have expected better.
What if… Create an access hole or window at the top using a hole-saw in the track. *** save the metal cut-out *** Then? Adjust & stop the door when a roller aligns with the hole & simply swap it out. Modify the left-over metal cut-out (with a popsicle stick J-B Welded over it) so that it becomes a “patch” to cover the hole.
That's an easy DIY job. There are other vids that show how to it without removing the whole rail and is alot easier. Make sure you buy the correct length rollers.
Received the plastic sleeves and they made things worse. The clips prevented the rollers from moving in and out as mentioned in other reviews. Called a professional and got quite an education. Bottom line, rollers good, sleeves and clips not so much.
I’m sorry for the experience, please don’t shove the clips all the way too close to the hinge tunnel. let the roller stem to have a little bit of play side to side. Once installed correctly it will work wonders 👍🏽😊🙏🏽 .
I'm 5 min in.looks to me it was installed bad?and that opener release it's telling me your smashing you door down to hard. sensitivity adj.and removing you track to replace rollers is not the best idea. especially on old doors.
If your motor is actually vibrating it might be time to replace it before it leaves you without a garage door opener. Vibrations in an electric motor is a sign of wear and in my opinion an indicator of the need for a new motor.
A properly installed door doesn't rattle.. .I have 26+ yrs in the field and own and operate an overhead door company...stop going "cheap" and you won't have this issue.
Weird. This seems like the track is not installed properly in the first place. My garage door used to be a bit loud - because the chain was loose and hitting but the way I made it super quiet - upgraded to a belt drive opener (even has a backup battery when the power is out it's good for at least a few opens and closes).
Good luck. None of mine went on all the way, even with lube. Best was 2/3's...they bind up when you push then since you're just shoving thin plastic they collapse.
@@kendallevans4079 Exactly. I used a utility knife to split the tight ones to make them go on all the way. I would have returned them for poor quality, but I think they will still help. VERY overpriced, though. But, nowadays everything IS.
No way a professional would use those sleeves. The roller stems need to slide freely in and out and sometimes further into the hinge than that clip will allow. Homeowner fix for sure. That way when the door fails, the pros get a call anyway!
![Garage Door Rollers and Hinges Replacement [How to *2019 Updated]](/img/1.gif)
Lubricating the overhead spring will make it much quieter also. Simply spray silicone or wipe the spring down with motor oil. Stops the noise when the spring loads and unloads from opening and closing of the door. #2...get a belt garage door drive unit.
After replacing nylon rollers, inserting sleeves and lubricating the garage opener, the garage door becomes much less noisy. Thanks a lot, FIx This House!
Thank you so much! I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse Also thanks for replacing correct-size sleeves!
I actually like it being a little noisy, it alerts my 2 pets and I when someone is coming home
The best video clip to teach us how to reduce noise and rattle on the garage door. Thank you, sir.
The issue I have with those sleeves is they're usually too tight in the roller carrier, yes they do prevent rattle, they also prevent the roller from freely moving in and out of the carrier as the door travels up and down. The reason why you want the roller to freely slide in and out is because the track is not guaranteed to be equal distant from the door the entire travel, if the door gets hung up on anything and if the rollers cannot freely move your door will get torn up. Some of the earliest models of sectional garage doors had fixed rollers, the moment the garage shifted, or any damage to the track, the door would not function.
They didn't look tight at all. as a matter of fact he even wiggled them. But thanks for the info on why they are made loose as I was trying to figure ways to stop mine from moving all together. So you likely save me from a huge problem down the road. I am still coming up with diy fixes to silence the door.. I was thinking of painting the inside of the track with a rubberized paint or some type of sylicone. because that makes noise too. thanks for sharing your understanding of the wheels.
@@colleenscottcarmello5103 does the track make noise or the roller rolling through the track make noise?
If you have steel rollers or if you have a bearing assembly to the roller and the assembly is getting worn out and the wheel can pivot from side-to-side it'll make a rattle noise similar to that of a baby rattle. A small bit of wobble from side-to-side is usually not an issue but once it gets to be more than 15° from side-to-side it'll start to make noise, generally once they can pivot 30° that's when I highly recommend replacement because they're about completely fall apart.
Great point! Especially if dirt gets in, it would really block the shaft from moving freely
One noise you didn’t fix is the slight grind when the door is up. Your drums be cockeyed. Good luck with that one Mr DiY. Not bad, not bad
I received my sleeves today and installed! AMAZING! I have a wall mounted opener so now the garage is totally silent! The only issue I have was not being able to put the sleeves on the top roller, but I'm totally satisfied! Thanks for a great video!
I recently purchased a set of your plastic sleeves. They were NOT equal in dimeter. None were too large, but some were too small. I ended up splitting the small ones to make them work. It's obvious they are VERY cheap, so you should at least supply them in uniform size.
That being said, I believe they did help some. At the same time, I also replaced the rollers as you suggested, insulated the door, installed "GREEN" spring loaded hinges, and adjusted the main spring tension. It is now the smoothest, quietest and best insulated garage door I have ever had.
Hi! Thank you for the support! Please email me and I can send you replacement for free with ones that are a little more snug to the fit. Here is my email: fixthishouse1@yahoo.com
Those sleeves are a good idea, although a cheaper way is heat shrink tubing
@@clydetheroadglide xlnt , thank you for sharing
Very cool. I would think thick shrink tubing would also work and not require lock washers.
If you simply don't want to remove anything you could use the sleeves then use a small piece of shrink tubing to hold the sleeve on.
Dude, I really like your style. Well spoken and no wasted words and the me. Just like me. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us because no matter how advanced our skill set there are a million more things to learn. All the best my brother.
DO NOT TAKE THE TRACK OFF…TAKE THE HINGE OFF. ONE GOOD BLAST OF WIND YOUR DOOR IS NOW DANGEROUS. Also if you can’t spin the roller the track is to tight. 30 year technician here. You can bend the top a bit on the middle of radius (the top flat part not the j portion) and just push up and the rollers pop right out where the small bend is made.
Mr. Quantum Techcrypto, I have a quick question. Are you aware of a standard style garage door like the one in the video (two car, 4 panel about 7' tall) that is capable of not leaking rainwater from between the panels when opening? I have a garage workshop with several cast iron machines that I would like to prevent water from dripping on and rusting them. My wife's car still needs to be parked in there, so I have no choice or say in the matter, LOL. I do cover them, but a door that was sealed between the panels would be better. Side or edge runoff can be addressed if necessary. Any info would be helpful.
All the Best, Chuck.
@@toolchuck Are you seriously asking someone how to not get your garage door wet??? Because when the door is in the open position gravity does its thing, and the only way to get water to not drip from the door when it's open would be for the door to not get wet in the first place. My advice, build an overhang.
I find it's easier to make a Bend in the vertical track where it meets with the horizontal. And then for the top roller I just pop it out of the horizontal track with the door in the half open position.
17-year technician here by the way
@@pauldefillippo8490 Yes I am, I thought you, being a "30-year technician" would have some insight on the matter. I'm not asking about the door getting wet, I'm asking about keeping it from leaking/dripping between the panels as it is opened after getting rained on, and no, an overhang in my situation like others is not an option. It is a common complaint for many as garages aren't always used for cars, as you should know.
As always, All the Best, Chuck
@@toolchuck I'm not the one with 30 years experience, I only have 17. I know the complaint that you are referring to sir, I have been asked it before. I am not aware of any solution to the problem that you have posed. A tongue and groove door would work better than a shiplap door which would definitely be better than a ball and socket style panel profile. The reason why there's no solution is because when the door opens the panels will separate so even if there was a gasket between the panels water still has an opportunity to flow around the gasket as the panels separate. So again the only way to truly prevent it would be to not get the door wet in the first place or wipe it down.
You could try stretching a tarp or some visqueen underneath and between the track so that when the door opens it would drip onto the plastic. Other than that I don't know what you could do to the door that would prevent the water infiltration.
I have the quietest electric garage door...at leat in my neighborhood and it's fairly aged and used daily. The secret is grease. Grease everywhere just to the point that it doesn't fall onto the floor or cars. Also a properly adjusted door opener chain goes a long way too as well as side supports from the walls to the rails using angled channel track. This makes the whole set-up more rigid.
Luv these green hinge have had on my garage for 5 yrs works great keeping cold / heat out have seen m in industrial doors throughout my travels as a trk driver great prod 👍
Thanks!
It was my pleasure! 🙏🏽😊
@fixthishouse hi! I have a question please. I would like to know if you have an older garage door but newer nylon rollers. Would these fit?
🙉3M Silicone Paste is great for garage door rollers/pins. (it's the best stuff for car/truck brake caliper pins for that matter)
It's also great for drill bits when you're making "custom holes" in your garage door tracks and/or brackets.
The decibels didn't seem to be any better. So did it actually help?
the dB metere is same before and after!
Right?! I noticed the same thing. Check out "Jay's How To Channel" with his video titled "Hush, Garage Door! How to Make Your Garage Door Whisper-Quiet" - he shows you more about this and isn't trying to sell you anything. ALSO he cleans the rails, something this dude didn't do and all his changes had a 15 db change in noise levels.
Lol
Thank you. I tried the pool noodle trick and knocked the noise down a lot. It was an easy 10 minute deal.
Was there any actual difference in the decibel rating after he finished?
Didn’t look like it to me.
Maybe 3-5 db’s…worth it? To each his own…
Track installation is very important. Many installers just zip zip its done and run. On my 10'x8' door I took the time to do it right. Details matter.
If the door is properly adjusted on install it should not be as loud . Yes nylon rollers will help a bit but only for a smoother open and close
@fixthishouse how thick are those skeeves? I got some from amazon and after i put them on the roller. The roller won’t go through the slots.thanks.
Question! When you open the garage door all the way, and you see that there is no tension on the steel cable, can you unscrew the last hinge to replace the roller? or do not touch that ever! ?
There should still be tension in the raised position. Do not remove the cable without releasing the tension from the spring first.
Definitely putting this on to my to do list, thank you!
It was my pleasure! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
Great video but you didn't show 2nd method of removing each wheel separately instead of the rail. That is the safer method (although more time consuming).
Yes he did. That is how he changed the top roller by removing that individual hinge assembly from the top door section. It is at 7:32.
Seems you cut away on the "after" decibel piece.. Looked like there was no real improvement based on that
Yes decibel wise it was the same, but the rattles muffled down 👍🏽😊
I think it was picking up the motor and not the door
There's many ways that the decibel meter may have been improperly comparing. If he wasn't standing in the exact spot. If there was more noise inside or outside the house, including wind. Overall, I assume the sound decreased, but the decibel meter can be tricky.
I can clearly hear the difference.
Sleeves and clips worked great. Thank you.
Are all rollers a standard size? One size fits all
Instead of buying those over-priced roller shaft sleeves, I put heat shrink tubing over the shafts and it's nice and quiet now....and way cheaper!!
That won’t last long. An interesting idea however.
If you add the roller sleeves will you need to add lithium grease?
You can, it’s up to you. I added a little 👍🏽😊
Yes, it will give the sleeves a longer life. I used an aerosol dry lithium lubricant. Works great on all the spots needing lubed.
Do you have any recommendations on how to fix the chain in the middle? My garage chain looks loose.
Please stay tuned I can provide a video on this soon 🙏🏽
Watching from Yosemite Kentucky. Thanks.
Is there a difference between these sleeves and bubble tea straws? I believe those washers are called push lock or starlock washers.
Thank you. I ended up use your idea and used black color Boba tea straws with my new DURA-LIFT Titan 12 rollers. Fits like a glove and result very quiet and smoothly opening and closing.
I think they are called internal tooth lock washers.
@@Aw15241 brilliant
I did not find the links to buy the nylon sleeve and lock washers in your video description , please help...
One by one, remove a hinge, inset the new wheel and replace the hinge.
Anything else and you’re endangering yourself and probably going to end up calling a professional to fix the problem.
If the simple swapping the rollers by doing a hinge is too difficult, you aren’t qualified to do it yourself, or the parts don’t fit.
Have an EMT or Paramedic on speed dial, if you don’t know what you’re doing, it’s nearly guaranteed you’ll be needing one
What about the bottom hinge which is under tension from the cable. That's the dangerous one.
This was such a great help thank you so much!
I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
A "7/16 millimeter" socket? I've been wrenching on everything from wagons and bicycles to B-52 bombers for the past 50 years and I've never heard of such a thing lol
So sorry 🙏🏽 that is my error 7/16 inch 😅
Nicely done - makes a big difference!
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
I bought the sleeves but they are like a bit too tight is there a trick to get them in
Added the same rollers, they made a big difference
Nice! Yes they worth it for sure! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
I was not able to find the nylon sleeves on your store link in the Garage Door section.
No worries here is the link: www.fixthishouse.net
Just received my plastic sleeves yesterday and am looking forward to installing them this weekend. 👍
Thank you so much for the support! They definitely will help with the rattle combined with the new vinyl rollers as well! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
Just got mine and none of them will go on all the way..! They all just seem to tight, some went half way a couple only 1/3 of the way before it binds up then if you push hard it collapses !
@@kendallevans4079 I agree. I used a utility knife to split the tight sleeves and they seem to work okay. Not the quality what I expected for $20, though. Quality for price is VERY poor. Just saying...
Can you add a link for the sleeves please? Thnx
Hi! Please visit my website for the sleeves, here is the link: www.fixthishouse.net
Would like to have the overall dimensions of the plastic sleeves. Thanks.
they vary , use a caliper
I like that sleeve idea. Good job
Taking off the garage door vertical track is very Dangerous ! We own a overhead door service co . Some one can get hurt or killed .
Exactly. No way should this be done. I own a commercial repair company myself.
oh god; its not dangerous, Ive done it a number of times. Instead of sounding the danger alarm, like some panty-wasted hos, just say what to do and recommend getting spring bars and dont use rebar.
@@zefrum3 You have no idea how dangerous doors and springs are.
Do not let us interfere in your quest for a well deserved Darwin award!
How long are these sleeves?
Its a lot easier to remove each hinge and replace the rollers. I just did this.
May I ask how you replaced the dangerous bottom roller? The Fixthishouse person seems to have not responded to this question from others. I prefer not to remove the vertical track. Thanks in advance!
“7/16 millimeter” just goes to show that you don’t need to be a real expert at anything to make RUclips videos.
Love it ! Big difference !
Thank you so much! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
Great advice
Thank you William! 🙏🏽😊
You know that bottom metal bar or maybe its a handle (we call it the step bar) thats blocking my sensors do you have any solutions for that?
Relocate the handle. Moving sensors is a pain and if too high or low, may reduce the safety of door use.
Would just filling the track with a 1mm or 2mm thick strip of rubber also be good enough to dampen the sound? Then you wouldn't have to worry about removing the wheels and it would be a quick and simple install? Or will it fail too easy due to weather/seasons?
I'm curious about this
Don’t use anything in the track not even grease. Install seal to seal the door that’s its job not the wall or the track. If you can’t spin the roller the track is to tight against the wall.
No. You need the play in the track vs. rollers, or they can bind up.
The “ 7/16 “ socket is inches not millimeters
I like that. I'm going to order some when I buy my new house soon.
Wonder how long the plastic lasts on a busy door. One that opens and closes twice a day minimum all year.
If we use the sleeves, it is okay to still put some grease inside there?
Yes
Regular oil does not get rid of all of the squeaks. White lithium does****************
Yes, please check out my garage squeaks fix video 👍🏽😊
Plastic sleeves fit over the roller shaft easily but I’m having trouble getting them back into the split-pin tunnel. Any tricks here. I’ve collapsed two trying to push them in the tunnel. I’m planning to wedge a shim into the split of the pin/tunnel. Got two on with struggle. Ideas??
Hi! Christopher! Could you send me a picture on my email please? - fixthishouse1@yahoo.com
Thanks Jay for your quick response. These sleeves are a great idea and so simple. All doors could benefit from such an easy way to cushion and quiet.
I would have put greased the shafts before putting it in..
Does the new (2022, 2023) garage doors come with these design? If the answer is "NO", then why the factory did not use it?
AWESOME video! Good job on this. It made perfect sense and provided great explanations. Thank you so much. I subscribed just so I never miss your videos.
Maybe 7/16 mm was misheard. 7/16 or its close enough mm size of 11 mm which is the most used size
I replaced the rollers by removing the hinges. Bottom one was little tricky
Can you share details about how you did remove the bottom hinge? Thanks!
Good stuff!
If you order the plastic roller sleeves, be aware of the ludicrous delivery times. Mine were shipped 8 days after I entered my order and arrived 7 days after that, a total of 15 days. For a shipping charge of $8, I would have expected better.
Cool. Can’t wait to order mine!!!
Thank you Jim! 🙏🏽😊
What if…
Create an access hole or window at the top using a hole-saw in the track.
*** save the metal cut-out ***
Then? Adjust & stop the door when a roller aligns with the hole & simply swap it out.
Modify the left-over metal cut-out (with a popsicle stick J-B Welded over it) so that it becomes a “patch” to cover the hole.
Beware. Most hinges aren’t going to be able to accommodate the plastic sleeves. They won’t fit inside the hinge.
did you make those sleeves? never seen those before. well done.
Thank you! They are available on my website: www.fixthishouse.net
@@FixThisHouseYou didn't answer his question. He asked if you made them! He know they're available on your web site.
Boba tea straw?
I need this done. What is the estimated cost?
I am not sure if the rates. Different prices on certain locations🙏🏽
That's an easy DIY job. There are other vids that show how to it without removing the whole rail and is alot easier. Make sure you buy the correct length rollers.
7/16 mm Socket ?
Received the plastic sleeves and they made things worse. The clips prevented the rollers from moving in and out as mentioned in other reviews. Called a professional and got quite an education.
Bottom line, rollers good, sleeves and clips not so much.
I’m sorry for the experience, please don’t shove the clips all the way too close to the hinge tunnel. let the roller stem to have a little bit of play side to side. Once installed correctly it will work wonders 👍🏽😊🙏🏽 .
The two spring wire under tension rub and bind is installer forgot to pull the end caps to give some space between turns.
“7/16” MM? I can’t find one at my big box home store.
Hi! 7/16 should be the same with 11mm
@@FixThisHouse
Hi, I cannot find on your home page where to view those stem sleeves. Cost, shipping etc.
lol 7/16" inch not MM It's called SAE in Merica the commie stuff is metric. I actually think metric is so much easier.
Wow, good catch! I would bet a really simple person would have tried to use a 5MM socket instead of 7/16th. /s
I find that one either 😂
The decibels are the same both sides before and after what’s the point going through all that
Video doesn’t do it justice. You have to try it to believe it
I'm 5 min in.looks to me it was installed bad?and that opener release it's telling me your smashing you door down to hard. sensitivity adj.and removing you track to replace rollers is not the best idea. especially on old doors.
Thank you for the advice! I will look into that 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
It seems to be higher decibels after
Nice!
Thank you!
Any way to quiet the motor/vibration?
That is a good question! Stay tuned I’ll make a video on that! 🙏🏽😊
Get a Marantec.
If your motor is actually vibrating it might be time to replace it before it leaves you without a garage door opener. Vibrations in an electric motor is a sign of wear and in my opinion an indicator of the need for a new motor.
I put 2 new doors about 12 years ago. One is very quiet rarely used and the other pretty noisy.
Oh my god get to it already
Awesome!!
👍👍👍👊😎
You have a wonderfully lovely garage door! I need to think how to dress mine up.
awesome i might update mine to these new ones.
Yes it’s a must! 👍🏽😊
A properly installed door doesn't rattle.. .I have 26+ yrs in the field and own and operate an overhead door company...stop going "cheap" and you won't have this issue.
it is not off battery backup is there.
But what if I like the rattle Esse? WTH, 7/16 mm deep socket?
Sorry I meant 7/16 inch
Wow, good catch! I would bet a really simple person would have tried to use a 5MM socket instead of 7/16th. /s
Sounds like most of the noise is coming from the motor. Try the decibel thing from outside.
Where might I find a 7/16" mm socket? 😂
if you can't easily open it up by hand, you need a new sorting; like me 😅
7-16 millimeter? That tells me all I need to know about the experience at play here.
I don't see how the 'lock washers' quiet the operation or serve any purpose.
Weird. This seems like the track is not installed properly in the first place. My garage door used to be a bit loud - because the chain was loose and hitting but the way I made it super quiet - upgraded to a belt drive opener (even has a backup battery when the power is out it's good for at least a few opens and closes).
I could not make the repair. I looked all over and can not find a 7/16 MM socket . Haha
I think I’ll go the cheaper route first and grab those sleeves.
Thank you 🙏🏽!
Good luck. None of mine went on all the way, even with lube. Best was 2/3's...they bind up when you push then since you're just shoving thin plastic they collapse.
@@kendallevans4079 Exactly. I used a utility knife to split the tight ones to make them go on all the way. I would have returned them for poor quality, but I think they will still help. VERY overpriced, though. But, nowadays everything IS.
probably would have sprayed the roller shaft with wd 40 first.
7/16 millimeters or 7/16 of an inch?
See that high pitched sound? How do you see a sound?
The nylon wheels won't last long. Don't do this. Just deal with the 10 seconds of sound you'll deal with.
No way a professional would use those sleeves. The roller stems need to slide freely in and out and sometimes further into the hinge than that clip will allow.
Homeowner fix for sure. That way when the door fails, the pros get a call anyway!
@5:58 you should have said 7/16 “inches” instead of centimeter :p
Haha sorry, my mind gets jumbled up sometimes 😂
Wow, good catch! I would bet a really simple person would have tried to use a 5MM socket instead of 7/16th. /s
there is no 7/16 mm. socket most likely a 10 mm. deepsocket