No everyone has that style of hinge, and removing bolts from hinges could be dangerous depending on the design. Actually, the proper way to fix that is to move the track closer to the wall. The track mounts on the outside of the track should have a slot which the bolt can slide in. Loosen the bolts on one side slightly, then press the track toward the wall and tighten. Now the rollers will not be loose and the door will be pressed against the door frame and rubber weather stripping.
Took the words right outta my mouth! This is the safest method. And if you get strong, gale force winds when cold fronts push through your area the way we do here, the buffeting affect that our east facing double car garage door has causes it to kick & buck some with the strongest gusts and I know if I were counting on the roller mod you're using to hold up to the winds, I'd lose to the wind and the rollers would fall back down to their proper position from the vibrational shake of the door panels. I rectified my situation by doing precisely what was recommended above. There is no way that doing what you recommend would be safe for be given that we have a Chamberlain Belt Drive door opener and with it being a double car garage door, the danger factor alone makes this impossibly hopeless for folks on my situation. Adjusting the tracks and guide rollers, then installing a fresh, non-dry rotted / UV resistant seal to provide an added degree of wind proofing was my method. Moreover, I did not ignore the threshold seal, nor the header seal above the top panel. With those solid and intact, I am leak free during all seasons. I recognize this method you show is a "budget" method....it just wouldn't prove to be a very budget friendly method if someone got hurt or you suffered property damage / loss due to the modification. I'll go a step further, if you tried having your home owner's insurer come out and provide an estimate to cover any damages caused by that unauthorized modification, they may be well within their legal right to refuse coverage under the circumstances.
Thanks to this video I just got rid of a roughly 3/16" gap all along the sides of my door, which is not desirable with all the below zero weather we get. The video helped because it made me take a close look at the tracks, which are also riveted. What I saw was the L brackets holding them were shimmed with a bunch of washers. 5 minutes to R&R the lag screws to remove the washers. Door still operates freely but is now sealed. Bottom line, check for un-needed spacers folks.
Yes this is one of the dumbest things I have seen in a while. You could even move the weather stripping tighter to the door.Send the tool police to take away his tools.
The rollers are worn out..Better answer is to replace your rollers. What this video is suggesting will cause binding on your door and excess wear on your operator. It may also have the added side benefit of having your door getting stuck or not closing or opening at all. One more thing, the wood that your weather seal is attached to will expand and contract depending on the weather, facts of nature.
The garage is only about 4 years old, so the rollers are fine. No power door operator on these, as I don't open them much. Never had any binding issues yet.
I lose so much heat that way through my side garage doors. I am going to try this trick. Some one said there is an actual way to adjust the side screws without having to remove the screws. Wish he would have said more. For now will try to pull hinge up and add a little foam under it. thank you
They are not adjustable. There's no slots to move them closer, plus the tracks go into the concrete floor, so they'll never move unless I cut them from the floor.
6th Gear Advertising usually it is adjustable at the top part of the rail where is starts to bend has various Mounting points.down the rail. And I'm not sure why someone would mount them in concrete. Hopefully u get a better safer solution worked out
I looked into that, but the brackets holding the track to the wall are riveted into holes which are not slotted. I could drill out the rivets, make the holes slotted, or drill new ones if there's enough room. Still though, that would only allow me to move the top of the tracks closer, as the bottoms are in the concrete. Unfortunate, but I gotta work with what I have. It's an Amish built pole barn. They did such a good job on everything else, it makes me wonder if there was miscommunication between them and the guy they had installing the doors.
My door has an adjustable track which will enable one to pull the door tight to the wall. When I went to make an adjustment, I found that one bracket wasn't even fastened to the wall! In my previous house, the track was NOT adjustable. Instead, I made shim plates out of hardwood to place under the roller; thus, forcing a tight fit. Also, if your garage has a service door ... check that for air leaks. I replaced my service door for little cost. Easy to do. Further, I installed wall panels using a 4x8 foot white panels used by dairy farms (no longer available from Wallmart). This added a small R-value; plus, plugged all possible air leaks and mouse access. Plenty of caulk where needed. As a result, the heat from wall shared with the hour (two wall and ceiling) resulted in a garage that stayed at about 60 degrees on normal winter days. If it got colder, a small heater would pull the temperature up within minutes to a working level.
moving track closer to wall is likely better. Buuut I appreciate your video... as it at least gives us ideas of the problem (even though removing bolts likely is not a great idea as likely is a bit unsafe... however you could likely put in some shims... then longer bolts... thus still get your angle you want, but do so more safely. Challenge with that is it may not easily move on the upper parts of the tracks... or for that matter may put stress on your garage door opener motor... but might be worth looking into
I'd have to agree with the comments on this solution not being practical or safe -- especially for anyone who has only one garage and actually uses their door about daily. I realize this is a "free" solution, but I think that some of us wouldn't mind paying a little for a product or retrofitting service that would work safely and effectively. But thanks anyway. =)
I am dealing with the same issues, But you do know that the side brackets that hold your rail have a tightening channel right? You can udjust the track on the side so you don't have to take your hinges half off.
6th Gear Advertising Ahhh, I was going to mention this too. My brackets use carriage bolts and nuts, so I was able to loosed those and shove the whole track so that the door was flush against the wall and retighten. The rivets were probably quicker for the installer to use. You could drill them out as they are just mild steel and then replace with carriage bolts and nuts... Not as easy, but not that hard either.
Did you ever drill out the rivets? I watched that video again and makes me mad that the guys installed it that way. I could clearly see they left the sliding slot open and riveted above and below. If you added the carriage bolts that are supposed to go with the door you would be able to tighten that door up without having to loosen up your hinges.
DNAhomeaudio No point in drilling out the rivets as the bottom of the door channel goes into the concrete. I suppose I could cut the channel at the base where it goes into the slab and then replace the rivets with bolts to get adjustability. For a door I rarely open during the cold months, I'll stick with something simple. Next garage I put up, I'm watching them install the doors!
Most tracks on garage doors are adjustable, some are riveted from the factory for whatever stupid reason. It's not always the installer that rivets the tracks together because most good door brands supply the cairrage bolts with the door. If you ever replace your doors, I do not reccomend Wayne Dalton doors which is what you've got. They're usually cheaply made and flimsy. I recommend C.H.I. doors.
Bad Idea! It was not designed to work unsecured as you are proposing. It would have been cooler if you fashioned a wedge to support the realigned track runner supports.
6th Gear Garage maybe the title of your video should specify that the solution is for garage doors that are rarely used. This isn’t easy or quick at all for somebody who uses their door daily.
Garage doors lead a pretty short life. The only thing they do is open, close, close and open until they stop functioning. Garage door repair springfield va... Very satisfied! Good service!
I addressed that in the video, they only came in black and were rather expensive, while this was free. Also note I removed the screws from the bottom section of the rollers. The brackets were riveted to the doors.
Nice, quick solution. Unfortunately, I do not have hinges like that so I'm going to have to keep thinking of a solution, but I'm happy this has worked for you. Thanks for sharing.
I have different hinges too. And my track is riveted together mostly. I'm going to try new installing new nylon rollers with Z bearings. If nothing else, the door should be quieter than the old metal rollers. I even tried putting spacers under the hinges, to push the door tighter. It didn't help at all.
Sorry you are getting so much grief, but yep, it does appear that your fix is unsafe and only really could apply for people that have a fixed track that can't be adjusted AND ALSO don't actually operated their door. That's a small percentage of all residential overhead door. In your shoes, I'd fix the basic problem, not add to it. Drill the rivets, replace with bolts. Cut the track out of the concrete. Poor install is the issue. If you are just looking for a quick fix to the gapping, you could shove shims into the track on other side of wheels and avoid dismounting the hinges, which is truly not a good way to go. They do connect the panels and you are asking for more trouble leaving them unscrewed.
So use really narrow shims to fit behind the wheels to push them toward the wall, hence tightening the door to the wall? I guess you've split shims somehow to get really narrow strips? Seems a great solution for me, I really don't care to use my door, it's too cumbersome anyway.
@@sparra3819 Yes. This idea is for a door where the rails cannot simply be adjusted, perhaps due to being cast into the concrete (not a good installation). That AND you know you won't use it. Fine, just shove some narrow strips of anything, split wood shims or plastic or metal and shove the door towards the seals where needed. Not good if operating the doors but if fixed, fine.
@@sparra3819 By the way, to split those typical wood shims you find at lumberyard, just take a chisel or knife of any kind, and press into thin end at thickness desired. Push down a bit and then twist and it will split off.
@@ceeweedsl Will look again at adjusting slide bolts but did not see a way last I looked. I will likely do this as seems my best fix. I really don't care to use the door, it's manual, heavy, takes all arms and legs to lift and is noisy. My garage is right below my kitchen so the kitchen floor gets so cold when the temp drops, the entire kitchen, really. I appreciate the tips : )
@@sparra3819 You might look at getting a good service to the door (spring adjust or replace) so that it's not so hard to lift and, at the same time seals correctly. Or if you really never use it, and just need to fix the side or top gap, you can also simply rework or replace the seal. Google "seal a garage door" Also, consider buying 1" foam insulation at Home depot and glueing or pressure fitting foam to your door inside so that it holds in more heat. they sell kits to do it or you can buy foam in large sheets and cut to fit.
This looks like a very bad idea. Why don't you just buy some brush seals and put them on both sides and the top of the door on the inside? Yes it would cost money but this looks unsafe. Brush seal are basically a long strip of brush material similar to what you see in those long handled ice scraper/brush combinations. Just go on google and type "brush door seal". People sell them with different length bristles and mount channels to work just about anywhere.
Because black brushes look tacky on a white door/trim. Plus, this is free! Ive been doing this for years with no problems yet. I only open the door a couple times a month during winter.
We have the Sealeze brush type weather stripping on the overhead door at my work place which is a really old building with an old metal garage door the had huge gaps on all 4 sides of the door. While it helped cut down the air flow quite a bit I can still feel air blowing through the sides. I found the just putting a few scraps of 2 x 4 between the door & roller channel closed the gap up pretty well. We also installed styrofoam panels on the inside of the garage door that helped improve temperature loss inside.
So I tried it and the entire door fell on my car and then hit me in the head and I passed out. I woke up and thought I was in purgatory except there was this bald guy and all he said was "We know a thing or two because we've seen a thing or two" then I heard "We are Farmers bum bum bum"
MICE BE GONE- You're a GENIUS! Thank you for posting video. I have exact same Wayne Dalton garage door. In addition to drafty & annoying slamming sound with wind but during winter months mice were squeezing through the gap. Wish I would have seen your video last winter because in the meantime I've invested in foams, seals, even had a garage door company coming tighten those screws that I, now removed! Thank You again
Checking in a week later and the garage hack has worked fabulously it definitely is kept my garage warmer and I've seen no signs of mice this definitely works
You just saved me a lot of headache today thanks so much! I live out in the country on large acreage my garage/basement shop faces the same way and I have a door for easy access on one half of the sf. I have dealt with this long enough tried your method worked like a charm!
@@6thGearGarage - I see... sorry, I missed that. Anyway, if that was me, I would have addressed the problem with the track being built the wrong way, then it will solve both problems at the same time. Well, it is your place so I can only suggest.
That is the most horrible idea you are going to get someone hurt I am a aircraft mechanic and have been one for way to long I I will tell you something what you proposed is going to jam a door or hurt someone I understand that you had a idea and wanted to share but bad idea a small amount of money would fix your issues
Please see in the description: Note: these doors are only opened a couple times/month during winter and they don't have a power door opener on them. Tracks on my doors are not adjustable, plus the track goes down into the concrete floor.
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No everyone has that style of hinge, and removing bolts from hinges could be dangerous depending on the design.
Actually, the proper way to fix that is to move the track closer to the wall. The track mounts on the outside of the track should have a slot which the bolt can slide in. Loosen the bolts on one side slightly, then press the track toward the wall and tighten. Now the rollers will not be loose and the door will be pressed against the door frame and rubber weather stripping.
got a you tube link for this?
Took the words right outta my mouth! This is the safest method. And if you get strong, gale force winds when cold fronts push through your area the way we do here, the buffeting affect that our east facing double car garage door has causes it to kick & buck some with the strongest gusts and I know if I were counting on the roller mod you're using to hold up to the winds, I'd lose to the wind and the rollers would fall back down to their proper position from the vibrational shake of the door panels.
I rectified my situation by doing precisely what was recommended above. There is no way that doing what you recommend would be safe for be given that we have a Chamberlain Belt Drive door opener and with it being a double car garage door, the danger factor alone makes this impossibly hopeless for folks on my situation.
Adjusting the tracks and guide rollers, then installing a fresh, non-dry rotted / UV resistant seal to provide an added degree of wind proofing was my method. Moreover, I did not ignore the threshold seal, nor the header seal above the top panel. With those solid and intact, I am leak free during all seasons. I recognize this method you show is a "budget" method....it just wouldn't prove to be a very budget friendly method if someone got hurt or you suffered property damage / loss due to the modification. I'll go a step further, if you tried having your home owner's insurer come out and provide an estimate to cover any damages caused by that unauthorized modification, they may be well within their legal right to refuse coverage under the circumstances.
I'll second a request for a youtube link!
Exactly the info I needed. Thanks a lot!!
Amen!
Thanks to this video I just got rid of a roughly 3/16" gap all along the sides of my door, which is not desirable with all the below zero weather we get. The video helped because it made me take a close look at the tracks, which are also riveted. What I saw was the L brackets holding them were shimmed with a bunch of washers. 5 minutes to R&R the lag screws to remove the washers. Door still operates freely but is now sealed. Bottom line, check for un-needed spacers folks.
Move your tracks forward. There are adjustment bolts where the track mounts to the wall
The tracks go into the concrete floor and use rivets on the brackets.
@@6thGearGaragemine have rivets as well. Guess they can be drilled out
It's a Great idea if you don't open the garage door at all.. otherwise not so much...but still thanks for Sharing....👍
With the style hinge you have you could stick a spring in it to push the door towards the framing.
That's a really good idea
The hinges hold the door together, FYI.
Yes this is one of the dumbest things I have seen in a while. You could even move the weather stripping tighter to the door.Send the tool police to take away his tools.
Use a rubber door wedge does the job without removing hardware
how do you place the door wedge?
The rollers are worn out..Better answer is to replace your rollers. What this video is suggesting will cause binding on your door and excess wear on your operator. It may also have the added side benefit of having your door getting stuck or not closing or opening at all. One more thing, the wood that your weather seal is attached to will expand and contract depending on the weather, facts of nature.
wow...did you not hear what he said in the vid...he never uses the door...and you can tell the doors are new. so how are the rollers worn out?
The garage is only about 4 years old, so the rollers are fine. No power door operator on these, as I don't open them much. Never had any binding issues yet.
The rollers got to much play in them there supposed to be tight not loose like his
I only have one garage door, but this would definitely have came in handy with the blizzard we just had!
Yeah I'm scared to see my next utility bill!
Look up green hinges
I lose so much heat that way through my side garage doors. I am going to try this trick. Some one said there is an actual way to adjust the side screws without having to remove the screws. Wish he would have said more. For now will try to pull hinge up and add a little foam under it. thank you
Your tracks are not adjusted close enough to the wall...
They are not adjustable. There's no slots to move them closer, plus the tracks go into the concrete floor, so they'll never move unless I cut them from the floor.
6th Gear Advertising usually it is adjustable at the top part of the rail where is starts to bend has various Mounting points.down the rail. And I'm not sure why someone would mount them in concrete. Hopefully u get a better safer solution worked out
I looked into that, but the brackets holding the track to the wall are riveted into holes which are not slotted. I could drill out the rivets, make the holes slotted, or drill new ones if there's enough room. Still though, that would only allow me to move the top of the tracks closer, as the bottoms are in the concrete. Unfortunate, but I gotta work with what I have. It's an Amish built pole barn. They did such a good job on everything else, it makes me wonder if there was miscommunication between them and the guy they had installing the doors.
My door has an adjustable track which will enable one to pull the door tight to the wall. When I went to make an adjustment, I found that one bracket wasn't even fastened to the wall! In my previous house, the track was NOT adjustable. Instead, I made shim plates out of hardwood to place under the roller; thus, forcing a tight fit. Also, if your garage has a service door ... check that for air leaks. I replaced my service door for little cost. Easy to do. Further, I installed wall panels using a 4x8 foot white panels used by dairy farms (no longer available from Wallmart). This added a small R-value; plus, plugged all possible air leaks and mouse access. Plenty of caulk where needed. As a result, the heat from wall shared with the hour (two wall and ceiling) resulted in a garage that stayed at about 60 degrees on normal winter days. If it got colder, a small heater would pull the temperature up within minutes to a working level.
Edit: ... heat from walls shared with the house (two walls and ...
You're lucky to have that rubber seal. I have none. My garage door frame shines. Facing east too
moving track closer to wall is likely better.
Buuut I appreciate your video... as it at least gives us ideas of the problem (even though removing bolts likely is not a great idea as likely is a bit unsafe... however you could likely put in some shims... then longer bolts... thus still get your angle you want, but do so more safely.
Challenge with that is it may not easily move on the upper parts of the tracks... or for that matter may put stress on your garage door opener motor... but might be worth looking into
I'd have to agree with the comments on this solution not being practical or safe -- especially for anyone who has only one garage and actually uses their door about daily. I realize this is a "free" solution, but I think that some of us wouldn't mind paying a little for a product or retrofitting service that would work safely and effectively. But thanks anyway. =)
1. I don't have that hinge.
2. I use my door. Its a door.
3. Not really a fix. Its time consuming to keep doing
I am dealing with the same issues, But you do know that the side brackets that hold your rail have a tightening channel right? You can udjust the track on the side so you don't have to take your hinges half off.
The sides are attached with rivets. The bottom of the door channel goes into the concrete - not sure why it was built that way.
6th Gear Advertising Ahhh, I was going to mention this too. My brackets use carriage bolts and nuts, so I was able to loosed those and shove the whole track so that the door was flush against the wall and retighten. The rivets were probably quicker for the installer to use. You could drill them out as they are just mild steel and then replace with carriage bolts and nuts... Not as easy, but not that hard either.
Did you ever drill out the rivets? I watched that video again and makes me mad that the guys installed it that way. I could clearly see they left the sliding slot open and riveted above and below. If you added the carriage bolts that are supposed to go with the door you would be able to tighten that door up without having to loosen up your hinges.
DNAhomeaudio No point in drilling out the rivets as the bottom of the door channel goes into the concrete. I suppose I could cut the channel at the base where it goes into the slab and then replace the rivets with bolts to get adjustability. For a door I rarely open during the cold months, I'll stick with something simple. Next garage I put up, I'm watching them install the doors!
The builders kinda screwed you over on that huh! Oh well at least you have a way to seal it up.
Check out www.garagedoorairseal.com
Most tracks on garage doors are adjustable, some are riveted from the factory for whatever stupid reason. It's not always the installer that rivets the tracks together because most good door brands supply the cairrage bolts with the door. If you ever replace your doors, I do not reccomend Wayne Dalton doors which is what you've got. They're usually cheaply made and flimsy. I recommend C.H.I. doors.
Bad Idea!
It was not designed to work unsecured as you are proposing. It would have been cooler if you fashioned a wedge to support the realigned track runner supports.
That wouldn't be free, easy or quick. I rarely open the shop doors in the winter anyways.
6th Gear Garage maybe the title of your video should specify that the solution is for garage doors that are rarely used. This isn’t easy or quick at all for somebody who uses their door daily.
this hurts me to watch
Garage doors lead a pretty short life. The only thing they do is open, close, close and open until they stop functioning. Garage door repair springfield va... Very satisfied! Good service!
🧐 um, the tracks can be adjusted to tighten the rollers. 🤷🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️
Not on this door, as they were riveted. Also the bottom of the track was in the concrete floor.
Instead of taking apart support brackets, you could have just used a brush seal along the side!
I addressed that in the video, they only came in black and were rather expensive, while this was free. Also note I removed the screws from the bottom section of the rollers. The brackets were riveted to the doors.
a 7/16 wrench is all u need to do exactly what your goin fer ... but easier and permanent and structurally sound ....
Nice, quick solution. Unfortunately, I do not have hinges like that so I'm going to have to keep thinking of a solution, but I'm happy this has worked for you. Thanks for sharing.
I have different hinges too. And my track is riveted together mostly.
I'm going to try new installing new nylon rollers with Z bearings.
If nothing else, the door should be quieter than the old metal rollers.
I even tried putting spacers under the hinges, to push the door tighter. It didn't help at all.
Alternatively check out Green Hinges - spring loaded garage door hinges that keep the doors sealed when down.
I had looked into them, but they weren't compatible with this hinge/door setup.
they are not cheap
And have to be cut to fit
PERFECT! thx!!
Sorry you are getting so much grief, but yep, it does appear that your fix is unsafe and only really could apply for people that have a fixed track that can't be adjusted AND ALSO don't actually operated their door. That's a small percentage of all residential overhead door. In your shoes, I'd fix the basic problem, not add to it. Drill the rivets, replace with bolts. Cut the track out of the concrete. Poor install is the issue. If you are just looking for a quick fix to the gapping, you could shove shims into the track on other side of wheels and avoid dismounting the hinges, which is truly not a good way to go. They do connect the panels and you are asking for more trouble leaving them unscrewed.
So use really narrow shims to fit behind the wheels to push them toward the wall, hence tightening the door to the wall? I guess you've split shims somehow to get really narrow strips? Seems a great solution for me, I really don't care to use my door, it's too cumbersome anyway.
@@sparra3819 Yes. This idea is for a door where the rails cannot simply be adjusted, perhaps due to being cast into the concrete (not a good installation). That AND you know you won't use it. Fine, just shove some narrow strips of anything, split wood shims or plastic or metal and shove the door towards the seals where needed. Not good if operating the doors but if fixed, fine.
@@sparra3819 By the way, to split those typical wood shims you find at lumberyard, just take a chisel or knife of any kind, and press into thin end at thickness desired. Push down a bit and then twist and it will split off.
@@ceeweedsl Will look again at adjusting slide bolts but did not see a way last I looked. I will likely do this as seems my best fix. I really don't care to use the door, it's manual, heavy, takes all arms and legs to lift and is noisy. My garage is right below my kitchen so the kitchen floor gets so cold when the temp drops, the entire kitchen, really. I appreciate the tips : )
@@sparra3819 You might look at getting a good service to the door (spring adjust or replace) so that it's not so hard to lift and, at the same time seals correctly. Or if you really never use it, and just need to fix the side or top gap, you can also simply rework or replace the seal. Google "seal a garage door" Also, consider buying 1" foam insulation at Home depot and glueing or pressure fitting foam to your door inside so that it holds in more heat. they sell kits to do it or you can buy foam in large sheets and cut to fit.
We have this saying here at Parks Garage Doors. Call us before you screw it up yourself.
This looks like a very bad idea. Why don't you just buy some brush seals and put them on both sides and the top of the door on the inside? Yes it would cost money but this looks unsafe. Brush seal are basically a long strip of brush material similar to what you see in those long handled ice scraper/brush combinations. Just go on google and type "brush door seal". People sell them with different length bristles and mount channels to work just about anywhere.
Because black brushes look tacky on a white door/trim. Plus, this is free! Ive been doing this for years with no problems yet. I only open the door a couple times a month during winter.
Look it is NOT a word!
We have the Sealeze brush type weather stripping on the overhead door at my work place which is a really old building with an old metal garage door the had huge gaps on all 4 sides of the door. While it helped cut down the air flow quite a bit I can still feel air blowing through the sides. I found the just putting a few scraps of 2 x 4 between the door & roller channel closed the gap up pretty well. We also installed styrofoam panels on the inside of the garage door that helped improve temperature loss inside.
I see they sell silver foil like insulation on amazon for such.
bandaid at best.
What were you thinking bud???
Thinking about staying warm, working with what I had.
@@6thGearGarage dont pay attention to negative comments turn them into constructive critism
See what happens if you take all those pesky bolts out. She'll be perfect, I'll bet!
So I tried it and the entire door fell on my car and then hit me in the head and I passed out. I woke up and thought I was in purgatory except there was this bald guy and all he said was "We know a thing or two because we've seen a thing or two" then I heard "We are Farmers bum bum bum"
MICE BE GONE- You're a GENIUS! Thank you for posting video. I have exact same Wayne Dalton garage door. In addition to drafty & annoying slamming sound with wind but during winter months mice were squeezing through the gap. Wish I would have seen your video last winter because in the meantime I've invested in foams, seals, even had a garage door company coming tighten those screws that I, now removed! Thank You again
Checking in a week later and the garage hack has worked fabulously it definitely is kept my garage warmer and I've seen no signs of mice this definitely works
watch f'in with those doors.
not all doors have the same roller mounts.
This is a bad idea. Don't listen to this guy. Taking bolts out of the hinges can cause the door to fall
You just saved me a lot of headache today thanks so much! I live out in the country on large acreage my garage/basement shop faces the same way and I have a door for easy access on one half of the sf. I have dealt with this long enough tried your method worked like a charm!
The better way is to adjust your tracks.
Rico Alonso I described why that isn't an option in the description. I don't think they should have been built into the concrete floor.
@@6thGearGarage - I see... sorry, I missed that. Anyway, if that was me, I would have addressed the problem with the track being built the wrong way, then it will solve both problems at the same time. Well, it is your place so I can only suggest.
That is the most horrible idea you are going to get someone hurt I am a aircraft mechanic and have been one for way to long I I will tell you something what you proposed is going to jam a door or hurt someone I understand that you had a idea and wanted to share but bad idea a small amount of money would fix your issues
Please see in the description: Note: these doors are only opened a couple times/month during winter and they don't have a power door opener on them. Tracks on my doors are not adjustable, plus the track goes down into the concrete floor.
This is stupid. Then you have to constantly install and reinstall the bolts to properly use the garage door.
This isn’t a garage door that is constantly used... also watch the entire video the door still opens fine 👍
If you're going to comment on a video try watching the whole thing first. Haters gonna hate!!!
Seems unsafe.
First Wayne dalton 9100 is a horrible door , but yea go ahead destroy your door lol that's how we make money
This is a great idea...he never uses the door and it solved his problem in less than 10 minutes. All you's just hate him cuz you ain't him
Not safe
thats what call bad idea, sorry dude.
非常好
Dumbest idea ever.
What the actual shit
Redneck solutions