Thanks for making this video. Adjustment of door-building makes perfect sense with the brackets you show, but my garage door is 1/2" away from my wall and the brackets don't have an adjustment (well, the top and bottom only do have ~1/4" which is not enough). The other brackets are factory spot welded to the tracks. I'm guessing there's no way to adjust these -- but let me know if you've seen this and have an idea. I'm thinking I may buy 1/2" wood strip to stick in the gap to prevent insects, snails, and mice from wandering in. (Also, I don't have a large center spring. I have a small spring on each side. Maybe this is a really old (40+ years) wooden door?)
For the brackets that control left right alignment of the track, if the oval gap where the lag bolt goes doesn't leave u enough room to just undo the bolt a little and slide it to the correct place, u can drill a new hole into the jamb, centered if possible in case the new hole is slightly off. Take care to get a snug hole for the new bolt hole so it doesn't spin during tightening. Never take off all the brackets at once so there is nothing holding that side of the rail to the wall. Always ask yourself, if I loosen this, will it fall on me? If yes, stop and do it a different way or call professional help.
For the brackets that control the distance from the garage door to the outside wall/jamb, mine are welded and cannot be adjusted. For those the only way to 'adjust' is if you need to close the gap you can swap out the hinges to control the spacing. Use higher hinge numbers to close the gap. If you need more gap/distance you can swap out for a #1 hinge but likely you'll need to put a shim underneath the bracket where it attaches to the jamb. 1/4" shim should do it. Again, call a professional before trying anything, I'm only telling you my experience for entertainment purposes.
My garage door (std 2 car garage) keeps disengaging for a second and reengaging "on the way down only" (3 or 4 times on each close in the same spots each time) Opens normally - Any ideas please? So confused guessing maybe a trolley? Happened one day to the next just like that :-( Trying to do cheap as I rent and there is no way my landlord would appreciate my massive 68 Torino parts storage mess lol
Pain in the butt to get them off from that point. I’ve cut them off with a grinder and replaced with new. You can try clamping with vice grips one side as well
Thanks for this. I ran the trolley without the garage door and once the trolley got to the motor, it hit the plastic bump and stopped...it won't move anymore. I makes a sound but nothing happens. How can I fix this?
You’ll need to loosen the chain or belt and get it off the gear, the gear is stuck currently because of how tight that is. Once you take off the chain or belt run the motor. You’ll need to find out where the trolley belongs before putting the belt or chain back on. If you have electronic “up” and “down” settings ( black square and triangles above and below the square in the back of the unit ) then simply attach the belt or chain further down the line and reprogram the limit settings. For manual limit settings keep reading I do this by pushing the button twice. If it just stops then it was traveling up so press it twice again. What you’re trying to do is press the button when it is “traveling down”. So the second time you push the button it “reverses” and travels all the way “up”. Now you know that the trolley belongs in the “open” or “up” position and you place it somewhere in the back and put the chain or belt back on. From here you can fine tune the adjustments as to how high up and down it needs to be.
If you have a belt instead of a chain, the belt may be stripped. No teeth, no movement. That's what happened to me -- replacement belt cost $25 on Amazon, replacement time was 15 minutes. It looks like my garage door was made in 2006 so the belts seem to last ~18 years.
@private94110 mine is a chain. Bad thing about mine is, the rails can't be adjusted. The company that installed it in 1997 used rivets instead of bolts. So I will have to drill out the rivets and install bolts with a flush head on it.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Have you uploaded the video where the door gets stuck 3/4 of the way down?
I have not I’ll try to do it this week
Has this video been posted yet?
Garage Door Getting Stuck On The Way Down
ruclips.net/video/Z-VaG-nuQYg/видео.html
Thanks for making this video. Adjustment of door-building makes perfect sense with the brackets you show, but my garage door is 1/2" away from my wall and the brackets don't have an adjustment (well, the top and bottom only do have ~1/4" which is not enough). The other brackets are factory spot welded to the tracks. I'm guessing there's no way to adjust these -- but let me know if you've seen this and have an idea. I'm thinking I may buy 1/2" wood strip to stick in the gap to prevent insects, snails, and mice from wandering in. (Also, I don't have a large center spring. I have a small spring on each side. Maybe this is a really old (40+ years) wooden door?)
For the brackets that control left right alignment of the track, if the oval gap where the lag bolt goes doesn't leave u enough room to just undo the bolt a little and slide it to the correct place, u can drill a new hole into the jamb, centered if possible in case the new hole is slightly off. Take care to get a snug hole for the new bolt hole so it doesn't spin during tightening. Never take off all the brackets at once so there is nothing holding that side of the rail to the wall. Always ask yourself, if I loosen this, will it fall on me? If yes, stop and do it a different way or call professional help.
For the brackets that control the distance from the garage door to the outside wall/jamb, mine are welded and cannot be adjusted. For those the only way to 'adjust' is if you need to close the gap you can swap out the hinges to control the spacing. Use higher hinge numbers to close the gap. If you need more gap/distance you can swap out for a #1 hinge but likely you'll need to put a shim underneath the bracket where it attaches to the jamb. 1/4" shim should do it. Again, call a professional before trying anything, I'm only telling you my experience for entertainment purposes.
My garage door (std 2 car garage) keeps disengaging for a second and reengaging "on the way down only" (3 or 4 times on each close in the same spots each time) Opens normally - Any ideas please? So confused guessing maybe a trolley? Happened one day to the next just like that :-( Trying to do cheap as I rent and there is no way my landlord would appreciate my massive 68 Torino parts storage mess lol
Hey there, any way you can send an email with a photo of the trolley now ? My RUclips name @ yahoo
How much should the gap between the verticals rail and the edge of the panels?
It changes at it goes up
@@GarageDoorGuidance gotcha, is their like a general rule of thumb I must follow?
@@Birthday.Guesser1 I use 7/16" as a starting point.
I'm trying to take off those bolts bit but they keep spinning. Any way to keep them from spinning?
Pain in the butt to get them off from that point. I’ve cut them off with a grinder and replaced with new. You can try clamping with vice grips one side as well
Overtighten..
Thanks for this. I ran the trolley without the garage door and once the trolley got to the motor, it hit the plastic bump and stopped...it won't move anymore. I makes a sound but nothing happens. How can I fix this?
You’ll need to loosen the chain or belt and get it off the gear, the gear is stuck currently because of how tight that is. Once you take off the chain or belt run the motor. You’ll need to find out where the trolley belongs before putting the belt or chain back on.
If you have electronic “up” and “down” settings ( black square and triangles above and below the square in the back of the unit ) then simply attach the belt or chain further down the line and reprogram the limit settings. For manual limit settings keep reading
I do this by pushing the button twice. If it just stops then it was traveling up so press it twice again. What you’re trying to do is press the button when it is “traveling down”. So the second time you push the button it “reverses” and travels all the way “up”. Now you know that the trolley belongs in the “open” or “up” position and you place it somewhere in the back and put the chain or belt back on. From here you can fine tune the adjustments as to how high up and down it needs to be.
@@GarageDoorGuidance Great, thank you... do you have a video on how to replace the bottom bracket? Mine is rusted out.
@@mr.boniato6402 not yet, but maybe I can do that one next. It’s a risky one as it holds all the spring tension there
Were you still planning on posting the video about a door that gets stuck 3/4 of the way?
I do have a bunch of videos I want to do I can put that one as my next one it’s just been busy busy at my day job
If you have a belt instead of a chain, the belt may be stripped. No teeth, no movement. That's what happened to me -- replacement belt cost $25 on Amazon, replacement time was 15 minutes. It looks like my garage door was made in 2006 so the belts seem to last ~18 years.
@private94110 mine is a chain. Bad thing about mine is, the rails can't be adjusted. The company that installed it in 1997 used rivets instead of bolts. So I will have to drill out the rivets and install bolts with a flush head on it.
Thanks!
What will happen if you don't adjust the tracks and let it continue to run?
Parts start breaking, panels start cracking from the repeated stress
@@GarageDoorGuidanceThank you for the reply and your helpful video!
Thanks,
??
?