Great video!! This worked for us. If you like written instructions, this is what I typed up and modified from this video Make sure you know what you're doing before you do this and have the right tools! To level a garage door: Tools: Ladder, garage spring winding bars, wrench (to fit on square nut) Steps roughly as shown in the video. Make sure you know what you’re doing!! Be safe! 1. unplug operator motor (For safety, not shown in video) 2. pull safety release 3. put winding bar into a spring 4. loosen set springs screws and take out a quarter turn 5. put a winding bar into the spring to wedge the spring against the door 6. tighten up the spring’s set screws 7. go to the side *opposite* your floor gap, and tighten the drum’s set screws ⁃ check the cable’s tension on the left afterward 8. go to the side directly above your floor gap, then loosen the drum’s set screws ⁃ the door should shift/settle and close the gap along the floor 9. once the door settles, re-tighten the drum’s set screws 10. loosen the set screws on the garage torsion springs, then put a quarter turn back on spring, then tighten spring’s set screws. If you forget to loosen the set screws first, you will loosen both cables off the drums and have to redo things. (This step was mentioned at the start of the video but not shown in the video.) 11. raise up the door manually and let it go back down to test how it settles to check the gap 12. reattach safety release 13. plug back in the operator motor
Like others have mentioned, this video is prefect and should be the guideline for others who make “DIY” videos. It’s short and right to the point. There’s no nonsense stories, useless talking or “can’t find tools” filming, etc. Nicely done all the way around. 👍
I installed my door and it well. However I propped it up on one side to get maximum ht. To pull in my van for service. After that I found it was racked. Thanks to your explanation of what happened and demo I was able fix it. Garage springs can be dangerous, so doing things properly is very important. Thank you
Thank you so much for this video. My garage was unlevel just like yours. A little bit higher on the left side of the garage. I fixed it now. Thanks again.
This really helped. A great instructional video on how to do something specific to a garage door. Not some guy walking back and forth chewing gum looking over his trifocals to find a tool.
Kyle you made my day bro, thanks for your video. I replaced the springs recently and got into this issue. This video solved the purpose for me. video is very crisp and clear.
Spot on! Thank you! I had to Google how/where to get the torsion bars for the spring, so I'll answer that here for anyone else who comes across this video. Answer: Measure the holes at the end of your spring (mine where half an inch). Go to the hardware store and get a 36-inch cold rolled steel rod in the diameter you need. Cut it in half (i.e. w/ hacksaw). Now you have your two torsion bars. I got my rod for about $6. You may want to file/sand the cut edge of the bars.
I haven't even done this yet but i know its going to resolve my issue now that you explain it. I had a garage door company come out and claim id need a new system so i figured id just get a new seal until i replace everything
Just finished mine. Worked great, only problem I had was removing winding bar due to lack of strength but I got it. Thanks for saving me $100 ridiculous charge my guy wanted.
When you loosen spring and cable drums it is much easier and produces much better results if you hit torsion tube 2" over either way, left of right. Then tighten drums first and spring last. Doing it this way insures your square headed tensioner screws don't fall into the same indents as before. Other than that, nice job Kyle! I been doing doors for 20+ years and I give ya credit bro! Nice!
Thanks, yeah in the video I do recommend shifting the torsion shaft over an inch or two when replacing springs. I just look down to see where the drums where tightened or where the bearing was wearing before tightening the screws after I wind the first spring.
Good video, should always mention a reminder about safety whenever loosening either cable (each time)that the spring tension is held fast by the bar or something bad will happen.
Thank you, this is the best video on the internet for this topic. I followed the instructions exactly and leveled my garage door as much as I could get it (the ground was also slightly uneven).
Hey Kyle thanks for your video instructions, I appreciate your professional expertise and the manner in which you demonstrate that. I appreciate also for being down to earth, and not like other/most RUclipsrs who are arrogant and who just make constant condescending digs directed at those people who are just trying to learn something… right, I mean that’s exactly why you make these tutorial videos. You’re a good person I can tell, thank you again
This video helped out a lot. When I loosened the bolts on the spring all of the tension popped out suddenly and knocked the wrench out of my hand. I tightened them back up though and used the bars and everything from there worked fine.
Thanks Kyle! Between this video and your video on how to replace the broken torsion springs, I’ve saved $200 from the quote from the local garage door repair company. Appreciate the insight. Thanks!
One of my springs broke on my Garage door. Called the repair guy and he replaced the spring. Only after he left did I realize there was about an inch gap on the left hand side. After several calls trying to have him return and fix his shoddy work, I gave up. I did not want to call another service as I felt I already paid for it. So I googled the problem and found your video. I fixed it myself in about 1/2 hour. Great video, thank you so much!
Great video. I was wandering though why do you take the tension off the right spring when adjusting the left spool? Does the tension not need to be removed from the left spring as well? Mine looks like two independent springs which makes me nervous about loosening the left spool with tension still on left spring.
Im sure you got it now, but for those who need to know; no you dont. When the set screws are tightened on both springs and you "bar" one off youre effectively barring both off since with the set screws tightened they, for lack of better words, become "attached" to the spring line.
Great video and thanks for the instruction. I, like 9to530 didn't get that 1/4 turn of the spring that you did right off in your repair. But after I watched that step again it made sense that way you had tension on your winding bar to hold the bar in place. I"ve been working on this door to make it work real nice as I just installed and opener and then I noticed that door was not level and the cable would actually catch on the door panels when it closed. But this will fix it right up today. Thanks again.
Question: There is a single rod the entire width of the garage door, and the two springs are applying equal upward unwinding torque on the door? When Kyle loosened the set bolt in the left pulley, I wondered what kept the rod from spinning. The one winding bar he used to apply more torque on the right pulley?
Never let go of the winding bar while you tighten the set screws, and never wrap your hands around the most dangerous part of the garage door when it's not necessary. You can use that wrench with one hand, one hand always on the bar, the other on the wrench. I can show you a few bad pictures of bad dudes hands all mangled up from springs and winding cones. Also you can level a door without even touching the springs, use a sharpie and mark a small reference line between the cable drum and shaft on the side of the door that is higher. Then carefully use your 8point and slightly loosen the drum set screws till you see your reference mark move apart, often times this is a 1/4" or less. Looks like you went too far, now the left side is smashed down and out of level again...another tip is to never level off the floor, door should be level in the tracks and I even look at the cable spacing at the corners of the top section. If you level off the floor and the floor is crooked, your door will run crooked in the tracks and cause other issues. But hey thanks for making the video, nice to see people trying to help people out, thanks again.
Watched your post,, did what you said, Perfect, You made the the job done easy, Even balanced the door with have a turn ,, Like you suggested . Thank You
Do I have to do that initial step of "loosening" the set screws on the torsion spring, to just slightly loosen the low side??? In other words... I have a small 1/2" gap (daylight shines thru), only on the LEFT side of my door... probably only the leftmost 24" of door seal at bottom. While the middle and entire right side looks perfectly shut flush. Can I just lock the torsion tube in place with a pair of vicegrips, like all other videos show?? Then simply loosen (SLOWLY) the set screws on the cable drum, on the "high side" of the door, until it closes the gap at the bottom, then snug everything up??? Ultimately, is the first step shown in this video... with the winding bars, and the quarter-turn, with the loosening of the torsion spring screws... absolutely required for this fix???? (I'd like to avoid touching the torsion springs.. at all... or using winding bars, if possible!)
@@diygaragedoorparts Thx. Thx for your Vlogs. Great information. Question: symptom is garage door doesn't respond other than clicking noise when actuating wall button. Thinking it may be circuit board; I replace with new, but still opener not working and symptom remains the same. My opener is a Chamberlain Professional 3/4 hp belt drive opener. It appears to have two capacitors; large white tube like with one having a green sticker and the other having a yellow sticker. No outward sign of damaged capacitor; if they are bad or one is bad could this cause no function at all or what...please advise. Thank you for your thoughts. Brooks
You was able to lift that door so easy manually. Incant do that. Does it mean my springs need adjustment? I've always heard you should be able to lift your door easy
Looks like a good video but mine is older with the long springs on either side. But I will check both their spring tensions and maybe that will be the adjustment I need.
One question: what is the purpose of loosening the tension spring and then tightening it right back up? Were u adding a slight amount of tension to that side since you added a quarter turn and then retightened in order to keep that side from dropping as far?
No it is so your winding bars props the spring tension against your door and does not fall out. Then you are tightening back so that everything connected the 2nd spring and the drums into one unit, so when you loosen the one drum on the high side it will lower down on that side.
i guess it could be a dumb question, but why is it necessary to loosen the spring and put the winding bar if the string is to be tigthened before working on the drum anyway?
Thanks for this video manage to easily solve the problem after installing new springs as I had totally no Knowledge about fixing garage doors .Sanjay Kumar
I have the same double torsion spring setup but the one on the right side just will NOT go up more than an inch. I was able to adjust the left. Does that mean its binded ? It does not look broken. The bottom foot of my door is very hard to push closed
How come someone I watched showed to put a winding bar propped onto each side of the spring and then leave the screws loose while you work and then you showed to put the winding bars in only one side of the spring and then retighten the screws before working on the drums, does it matter which way it’s done or should I say is it safe to do it either way?
Either way will work but there are 3 downsides to doing it with propping both springs and keeping the screws loose. 1- most people do not have an extra winding bar that would make propping 2 springs easier. 2- what is keeping tension on your cables as you make your adjustment with the 2 bar method (probably a set of vice grips so the shaft doesn't turn) 3- how do you know how much you adjusted the cable length? It isn't visible until you put everything back So there is a lot more hassle and and steps to that method. The way we look at is by this methodology. KISS- keep it safe and simple The way we do it you can see the see and feel the side that is high lower down and you can kind of control how fast is lowers down all while the single winding bar is holding all of the spring tension safely since everyone is tightened down to the torsion shaft. Again like the old saying goes there is more than one way to skin a cat. For us this method works, it's safe, it's faster, and we can have more fine adjustment control on how much we lengthen the cable by letting the drum turn.
DIY Garage Door Parts well i certainly appreciate the response, I’ll be honest I sort of ended up doing a combination of both because doing it either way wasn’t really working for me, so I guess I ended up just playing around with everything for awhile until it finally all lined up and looked good
Why do we need to loosen the keys on the spring, adjust 1/4, and retighten the keys? Why can't I simply use two bars to flex the spring enough to get a second bar in place and let it flex back against the door?
hey Pete the reason is usually if you don't loosen the keys and just raise the spring to the next hole, usually that will cause the cable to come off of both drums. so you would have to reset both drums and cable. It is much easier to adjust one drum and that way you can see the door lower down on the side that is high.
Thanks for much for being awesome Kyle. Forgive my ignorance but I wanted to ask you, why do you insert the winding bar and keep it under tension against the door top? what would happen if you loosened the drum without the winding rod in place? will that cause the torsion spring to spin the other way or something? I appreciate your help in explaining this part
If you didn't use the winding bar to hold tension the spring would instantly unwind the rod/pulley as you loosened the bolts and it could severely injure you.
does the door need to be leveled by a bubble or laser level or should it be tight against the floor even when the floor is not leveled? I am having issues with my door and I really think it's out. of square, some where, but I am not sure if I should make it bubble leveled or tight against my very out-of-level garage floor (concrete has sunk thru the years) thanks for the video, it is great
Great video. My door is in the same situation....gap on one side (I recently had to re-coil my cables). This looks simple enough. what could possibly go wrong!? Thanks.
i have long cables going back to large springs on either side. the springs are about 5 feet long that sort of dangle length wise across the ceiling. how do i adjust those?
My door is made of heavy wood double door about and the motor burned out I can't even lift it right now I know I have to level the side rails that bolt to wall any help you can give me basically I'm setting it up like it's new now but I also have the old spring kind and I wouldn't know how much wire to buy or how to equally tighten the wires that their even it's really hard to pull down back to the bottom they were really tight I had to cut them out just to let me get at it to fix the rails
Hi, I adjusted my springs and it's better although it's not holding at the bottom but it falls smoothly, the problem is when it's going up it really shoots up to the point when the door is horizontal at the top it bounces back and forth due to the spring tension I don't know if that's ideal I don't think it is. I added 3 quarters turns in first place but now removed 1 quarter, the door doesn't hold at the bottom anymore it just falls but when going up when reaching the curve of the track, it goes quick still. What should I do ?
Great video!! This worked for us.
If you like written instructions, this is what I typed up and modified from this video
Make sure you know what you're doing before you do this and have the right tools!
To level a garage door:
Tools: Ladder, garage spring winding bars, wrench (to fit on square nut)
Steps roughly as shown in the video. Make sure you know what you’re doing!! Be safe!
1. unplug operator motor (For safety, not shown in video)
2. pull safety release
3. put winding bar into a spring
4. loosen set springs screws and take out a quarter turn
5. put a winding bar into the spring to wedge the spring against the door
6. tighten up the spring’s set screws
7. go to the side *opposite* your floor gap, and tighten the drum’s set screws
⁃ check the cable’s tension on the left afterward
8. go to the side directly above your floor gap, then loosen the drum’s set screws
⁃ the door should shift/settle and close the gap along the floor
9. once the door settles, re-tighten the drum’s set screws
10. loosen the set screws on the garage torsion springs, then put a quarter turn back on spring, then tighten spring’s set screws. If you forget to loosen the set screws first, you will loosen both cables off the drums and have to redo things. (This step was mentioned at the start of the video but not shown in the video.)
11. raise up the door manually and let it go back down to test how it settles to check the gap
12. reattach safety release
13. plug back in the operator motor
Dude, seriously. People like you we need more of. Appreciate you
Like others have mentioned, this video is prefect and should be the guideline for others who make “DIY” videos. It’s short and right to the point. There’s no nonsense stories, useless talking or “can’t find tools” filming, etc. Nicely done all the way around. 👍
I installed my door and it well. However I propped it up on one side to get maximum ht. To pull in my van for service. After that I found it was racked. Thanks to your explanation of what happened and demo I was able fix it. Garage springs can be dangerous, so doing things properly is very important. Thank you
Thank you so much for this video. My garage was unlevel just like yours. A little bit higher on the left side of the garage. I fixed it now. Thanks again.
I know this is an older video, but I didn't need it until today. That was straight forward and easy to understand. I appreciate it!
This really helped. A great instructional video on how to do something specific to a garage door. Not some guy walking back and forth chewing gum looking over his trifocals to find a tool.
Kyle you made my day bro, thanks for your video.
I replaced the springs recently and got into this issue. This video solved the purpose for me. video is very crisp and clear.
Thanks brother I am glad it helped out. Thanks for the support!
Love this! Great info, no messing around! My kinda speed
Thank you 🙏
Spot on! Thank you! I had to Google how/where to get the torsion bars for the spring, so I'll answer that here for anyone else who comes across this video. Answer: Measure the holes at the end of your spring (mine where half an inch). Go to the hardware store and get a 36-inch cold rolled steel rod in the diameter you need. Cut it in half (i.e. w/ hacksaw). Now you have your two torsion bars. I got my rod for about $6. You may want to file/sand the cut edge of the bars.
I used a piece of rebar, works swell.
All thread works great
Just did my door tonight...perfect fix in 10 minutes. You saved me $$$$$. Thanks
Awesome so glad it helped out!
Thanks :) Got 2x leveling bars on Amazon and got my garage door leveled in 15 to 20 min...
I haven't even done this yet but i know its going to resolve my issue now that you explain it. I had a garage door company come out and claim id need a new system so i figured id just get a new seal until i replace everything
Just finished mine. Worked great, only problem I had was removing winding bar due to lack of strength but I got it.
Thanks for saving me $100 ridiculous charge my guy wanted.
Nice job with explaining the fix. Helped us big time!
When you loosen spring and cable drums it is much easier and produces much better results if you hit torsion tube 2" over either way, left of right. Then tighten drums first and spring last. Doing it this way insures your square headed tensioner screws don't fall into the same indents as before. Other than that, nice job Kyle! I been doing doors for 20+ years and I give ya credit bro! Nice!
Thanks, yeah in the video I do recommend shifting the torsion shaft over an inch or two when replacing springs. I just look down to see where the drums where tightened or where the bearing was wearing before tightening the screws after I wind the first spring.
Great info and from what I can tell the only one out there that actually has some useful info! Thank uou
GREAT JOB! You help lots of folks who believe garage doors are complicated. thank you
Good video, should always mention a reminder about safety whenever loosening either cable (each time)that the spring tension is held fast by the bar or something bad will happen.
You answer my confusion. Thank you
Took me 5 minutes much appreciated!
This is exactly what I was looking for, thank you so much!
This truly helped me level my garage door. Thanks!
Thank you, this is the best video on the internet for this topic. I followed the instructions exactly and leveled my garage door as much as I could get it (the ground was also slightly uneven).
Hey Kyle thanks for your video instructions, I appreciate your professional expertise and the manner in which you demonstrate that. I appreciate also for being down to earth, and not like other/most RUclipsrs who are arrogant and who just make constant condescending digs directed at those people who are just trying to learn something… right, I mean that’s exactly why you make these tutorial videos. You’re a good person I can tell, thank you again
Thanks brother that means a lot!
This video helped out a lot. When I loosened the bolts on the spring all of the tension popped out suddenly and knocked the wrench out of my hand. I tightened them back up though and used the bars and everything from there worked fine.
Can I adjust the drum without touching the spring?
Thanks! This was just what I needed!!
Thanks Kyle! Between this video and your video on how to replace the broken torsion springs, I’ve saved $200 from the quote from the local garage door repair company. Appreciate the insight. Thanks!
Well done. I enjoyed it. very helpful.
Thanks
Worked really well, thank you sir.
Great video! Should you unlatch the door from the opener before starting this procedure??
I personally think, yes, that's worthwhile.
Given (at least) 3 different ways to do this on youtube, just did it your way and it worked just fine and took hardly any time.
Thanks Kyle.
Tom Hoopes thanks!
One of my springs broke on my Garage door. Called the repair guy and he replaced the spring. Only after he left did I realize there was about an inch gap on the left hand side. After several calls trying to have him return and fix his shoddy work, I gave up. I did not want to call another service as I felt I already paid for it. So I googled the problem and found your video. I fixed it myself in about 1/2 hour. Great video, thank you so much!
Not a problem. Glad it helped out. If we can help in the future let us know. Thanks
Thank you very much from Canada.
Thanks for the video Kyle !!
Great showing to adjust garage dood leveling
Great video. I was wandering though why do you take the tension off the right spring when adjusting the left spool? Does the tension not need to be removed from the left spring as well? Mine looks like two independent springs which makes me nervous about loosening the left spool with tension still on left spring.
Im sure you got it now, but for those who need to know; no you dont. When the set screws are tightened on both springs and you "bar" one off youre effectively barring both off since with the set screws tightened they, for lack of better words, become "attached" to the spring line.
@@brandoncummings1037 Thank you for the reply!!
Thank you, this is the best and most helpful video I have seen yet. 👍
Excellent video, straightforward, effective and safe!!! I am not much of a handyman but this worked first time for me. Highly recommended.
Thanks for posting. Fixed my problem very easily after watching this.
626pingj Thanks!!
Great video and thanks for the instruction. I, like 9to530 didn't get that 1/4 turn of the spring that you did right off in your repair. But after I watched that step again it made sense that way you had tension on your winding bar to hold the bar in place. I"ve been working on this door to make it work real nice as I just installed and opener and then I noticed that door was not level and the cable would actually catch on the door panels when it closed. But this will fix it right up today. Thanks again.
+Lisa Johnson Thanks Lisa for the feedback and letting me know how it went.
Question: There is a single rod the entire width of the garage door, and the two springs are applying equal upward unwinding torque on the door? When Kyle loosened the set bolt in the left pulley, I wondered what kept the rod from spinning. The one winding bar he used to apply more torque on the right pulley?
does it matter which side of spring to hold tension with winding bar?
good advise ,to balance the door on ground appreciates thanks
Man, you solve my garage door problem! Thanks.
Very Very Thanks for this video!!! I have exactly the same problem as you shown. Going to fix :)) now
Thanks but why can't you just adjust the cable wheels without loosening up the springs?
Thanks , short , clear and to the point. I would wear safety goggles too.
Thanks for posting......Great Video
Never let go of the winding bar while you tighten the set screws, and never wrap your hands around the most dangerous part of the garage door when it's not necessary. You can use that wrench with one hand, one hand always on the bar, the other on the wrench. I can show you a few bad pictures of bad dudes hands all mangled up from springs and winding cones. Also you can level a door without even touching the springs, use a sharpie and mark a small reference line between the cable drum and shaft on the side of the door that is higher. Then carefully use your 8point and slightly loosen the drum set screws till you see your reference mark move apart, often times this is a 1/4" or less. Looks like you went too far, now the left side is smashed down and out of level again...another tip is to never level off the floor, door should be level in the tracks and I even look at the cable spacing at the corners of the top section. If you level off the floor and the floor is crooked, your door will run crooked in the tracks and cause other issues. But hey thanks for making the video, nice to see people trying to help people out, thanks again.
1q
Really appreciate this video! Worked like a charm!!!
I'm also a fulltime RUclips content creator and your video is definitely up to par! Great job
Thanks, had same problem and its a good quick 101 on residential garage door functionality!
Watched your post,, did what you said, Perfect, You made the the job done easy, Even balanced the door with have a turn ,, Like you suggested . Thank You
Thank you. simple and comprehensive explanation.
Thanks, best and easiest one I've seen!!
Do I have to do that initial step of "loosening" the set screws on the torsion spring, to just slightly loosen the low side???
In other words... I have a small 1/2" gap (daylight shines thru), only on the LEFT side of my door... probably only the leftmost 24" of door seal at bottom. While the middle and entire right side looks perfectly shut flush.
Can I just lock the torsion tube in place with a pair of vicegrips, like all other videos show??
Then simply loosen (SLOWLY) the set screws on the cable drum, on the "high side" of the door, until it closes the gap at the bottom, then snug everything up???
Ultimately, is the first step shown in this video... with the winding bars, and the quarter-turn, with the loosening of the torsion spring screws... absolutely required for this fix????
(I'd like to avoid touching the torsion springs.. at all... or using winding bars, if possible!)
Thank you. You just sa ved me a lot of money and I am much warmer
Simple! Excellent! Thanks!
I appreciate it.
Thank you very much! Fixed my problem for free abd with ease!
Do you have any information on how to fix a garage door that is coming apart at the bottom?
Does every on have torsion spring garage door besides me
very educative. Thank you regards
Thank you,wanted to do this all summer easy adjusting
you dont have to put the winding bar on the left when you loosen the left drum?
What if operator and travel bar aren't level; Out like a 1/4" or so. I just noticed this after trouble shooting and found your Vlog. Thx.
The opener rail isn't supposed to be level. It puts the top panel in a bind and will do damage to the to panel
@@diygaragedoorparts Thx. Thx for your Vlogs. Great information. Question: symptom is garage door doesn't respond other than clicking noise when actuating wall button. Thinking it may be circuit board; I replace with new, but still opener not working and symptom remains the same. My opener is a Chamberlain Professional 3/4 hp belt drive opener. It appears to have two capacitors; large white tube like with one having a green sticker and the other having a yellow sticker. No outward sign of damaged capacitor; if they are bad or one is bad could this cause no function at all or what...please advise. Thank you for your thoughts. Brooks
How would you level a door with Extension springs?
Wish you were my chemistry teacher!!!
Excellent instructions! Thanks dude.
You was able to lift that door so easy manually. Incant do that. Does it mean my springs need adjustment? I've always heard you should be able to lift your door easy
Thanks for the great video.
Looks like a good video but mine is older with the long springs on either side. But I will check both their spring tensions and maybe that will be the adjustment I need.
One question: what is the purpose of loosening the tension spring and then tightening it right back up? Were u adding a slight amount of tension to that side since you added a quarter turn and then retightened in order to keep that side from dropping as far?
No it is so your winding bars props the spring tension against your door and does not fall out. Then you are tightening back so that everything connected the 2nd spring and the drums into one unit, so when you loosen the one drum on the high side it will lower down on that side.
Perfect ! Exactly what I needed to know .....thanks!
When I went to Germany I did see Kyle.
Did the trick, thanks Kyle
Anthony Johnson awesome glad it helped
i guess it could be a dumb question, but why is it necessary to loosen the spring and put the winding bar if the string is to be tigthened before working on the drum anyway?
I have 4 springs 2 on each side do i wind both spring on one side
Thank you for uploading this video you are very clear
Kyle, thanks for the tip. I had the exact same problem and your instructions were spot on. Thanks again :-)
Hi mines is completely off I need to align the rails up against the walls how far away from wheels ?
Where do you get the winding bars?
Thanks for this video manage to easily solve the problem after installing new springs as I had totally no Knowledge about fixing garage doors .Sanjay Kumar
No problem glad to make it easy for you!
I have the same double torsion spring setup but the one on the right side just will NOT go up more than an inch. I was able to adjust the left. Does that mean its binded ? It does not look broken. The bottom foot of my door is very hard to push closed
How come someone I watched showed to put a winding bar propped onto each side of the spring and then leave the screws loose while you work and then you showed to put the winding bars in only one side of the spring and then retighten the screws before working on the drums, does it matter which way it’s done or should I say is it safe to do it either way?
Either way will work but there are 3 downsides to doing it with propping both springs and keeping the screws loose.
1- most people do not have an extra winding bar that would make propping 2 springs easier.
2- what is keeping tension on your cables as you make your adjustment with the 2 bar method (probably a set of vice grips so the shaft doesn't turn)
3- how do you know how much you adjusted the cable length? It isn't visible until you put everything back
So there is a lot more hassle and and steps to that method.
The way we look at is by this methodology. KISS- keep it safe and simple
The way we do it you can see the see and feel the side that is high lower down and you can kind of control how fast is lowers down all while the single winding bar is holding all of the spring tension safely since everyone is tightened down to the torsion shaft.
Again like the old saying goes there is more than one way to skin a cat.
For us this method works, it's safe, it's faster, and we can have more fine adjustment control on how much we lengthen the cable by letting the drum turn.
DIY Garage Door Parts well i certainly appreciate the response, I’ll be honest I sort of ended up doing a combination of both because doing it either way wasn’t really working for me, so I guess I ended up just playing around with everything for awhile until it finally all lined up and looked good
Why do we need to loosen the keys on the spring, adjust 1/4, and retighten the keys? Why can't I simply use two bars to flex the spring enough to get a second bar in place and let it flex back against the door?
hey Pete the reason is usually if you don't loosen the keys and just raise the spring to the next hole, usually that will cause the cable to come off of both drums. so you would have to reset both drums and cable. It is much easier to adjust one drum and that way you can see the door lower down on the side that is high.
@@diygaragedoorparts these are not keys they are set screws. keys are used on a solid keyed shaft usually 1/4"
How do I get it to be level I know I have to either use a string level or something
Thanks for much for being awesome Kyle. Forgive my ignorance but I wanted to ask you, why do you insert the winding bar and keep it under tension against the door top? what would happen if you loosened the drum without the winding rod in place? will that cause the torsion spring to spin the other way or something? I appreciate your help in explaining this part
If you didn't use the winding bar to hold tension the spring would instantly unwind the rod/pulley as you loosened the bolts and it could severely injure you.
Thank you so much for this video. Helped greatly.
No Problem that is what we are here.
does the door need to be leveled by a bubble or laser level or should it be tight against the floor even when the floor is not leveled?
I am having issues with my door and I really think it's out. of square, some where, but I am not sure if I should make it bubble leveled or tight against my very out-of-level garage floor (concrete has sunk thru the years) thanks for the video, it is great
I hear those springs can cause damage. How does this happen and and how to I not to that?
Great video. My door is in the same situation....gap on one side (I recently had to re-coil my cables). This looks simple enough. what could possibly go wrong!?
Thanks.
i have long cables going back to large springs on either side. the springs are about 5 feet long that sort of dangle length wise across the ceiling. how do i adjust those?
Great help! Thanks a bunch
Thanks for the Video, Work great and saved me the money from having to call a garage door company out to the house.
No problem glad it helped out
Outstanding job thank you!!
I just subscribe to this channel
Thanks, Leveled in 5 minutes
My door is made of heavy wood double door about and the motor burned out I can't even lift it right now I know I have to level the side rails that bolt to wall any help you can give me basically I'm setting it up like it's new now but I also have the old spring kind and I wouldn't know how much wire to buy or how to equally tighten the wires that their even it's really hard to pull down back to the bottom they were really tight I had to cut them out just to let me get at it to fix the rails
Before this i thought i had to unwind my door. Just leveled my door in 10 minutes.
Thanks for your help and the video!
Glad it helped out! Let us know if you ever need anything.
Hi, I adjusted my springs and it's better although it's not holding at the bottom but it falls smoothly, the problem is when it's going up it really shoots up to the point when the door is horizontal at the top it bounces back and forth due to the spring tension I don't know if that's ideal I don't think it is.
I added 3 quarters turns in first place but now removed 1 quarter, the door doesn't hold at the bottom anymore it just falls but when going up when reaching the curve of the track, it goes quick still.
What should I do ?
Would this fix bottom fixture bracket griding against the track when almost fully open and when start to come down ? Thsts the problem i have .