Incredibly good 👍🏼 !! Thanks for opening up the failed ignition coil module in order to show us the actual transistor whose job it is to switch on and off the coil. That’s excellent teaching techniques and dedication to bring us students the best learning experience anywhere !!!
thank you my friend! so nice the hear. this is what I am striving for. to provide those that cannot attend my class in person to actually feel like they are part of it.
Awesome video and extremely well explained. I have a 2002 Chevy Cavalier with this same 2.2 liter DOHC engine and it started running on 2 cylinders intermittently so it was not easy to track the problem. It was enough to overheat and destroy the catalytic converter due to the misfire and fuel that was not being burned in those two cylinders.
A very nice Sunday morning watch. My 2004 Cavalier is the same. I have yet to experience any ignition issues. But now, I know in-depth how it works. In addition, you've provided a nice detailed tour of the subsystem for me to experience without getting my hands dirty just before breakfast! Here's to another three decades of avoiding retail automotive repair expenses! Thanks for taking the time and putting forth the effort to produce these diagnostic videos. Better educated DIY'ers and professional technicians make the world a better place.
I would like to thank you for this video. Today I struggled to troubleshoot my wife's 2004 alero that has the same motor as this car. After replacing the coil housing, plugs, and boots with no result I was about to give up. Then I found your video and went and purchased a cheap test light and checked the control module and ended up with the same results as you did. I changed it with a new one from autozone and now the car is running perfect so thank you very much.
Currently working through your video lectures whilst following your Ebook, couple this with the detailed RUclips videos you produce and your providing a full on education! I've been on quite a few uk training courses and none one even comes closes to how you teach and explain things. Fantastic stuff yet again Paul!
I was having a serious problem with a P0341 code on the same kind of car. Could not find any videos on how to test the ICM until I seen your video. I really appreciate your teaching. Thank you.
Thank you so much for this vid!!! I went out, took off the module, checked the coil resistance, tested the module pins but used DMM on AC setting... one pin toggled voltage... the other did not... Replaced the module and she purrs like a kitten!!!! Again,,, THANKS SO MUCH!!!
No problem man, it was my fault for not making that clear enough in the video. I'm glad that it makes sense to you now. It is a pretty cool concept if you think about it. I've only used it a handful of times and each time it has been accurate. But I am sure there is some variable out there that it wouldn't be.
Great video, as a computer tech for nearly 30 years it was nice to relate my knowledge to how my car (2004 2.2 Saturn Vue) works........or in this case doesn't work. Just drove 110 miles home from work with a 2 cyl misfire (5 hours - lots of hills), changed the ICM before I started hoping that would do the trick but unfortunately not. Now at least I understand how things are supposed to work I can do some testing before jumping in and spending $$$ on parts I don't need to replace.
no, first thing is the test light wouldn't carry enough current flow. these coils need over 6 amps of current to charge properly. also using a jumper wire is not a good idea either as you will most likely "overcharge" the coil (too much current flow) and it doesn't work anyway. thanks for the comment!
because current flow is the same on the positive or negative side of a circuit. normally you can't see base ckt current because it is occurring the same time as primary current. however if the primary coil is open you can see it as I showed in the case study in my eBook
The case studies are priceless as well the information provide in sections two and three. I become a better tech each time I watch a case study as I am sure everyone else does, keepem coming !
:-) I thought about doing that. Here is why I didn't. First the ohm test showed me equal resistance on both coils and second, in my experience, these transistor drivers are protected from over current situations. At least for a little while anyway. Long enough for me to make the final call on the coil. I really felt there was no danger to the driver for this small period of time. I like the way you think though. It would have been cool to do what you suggested.
I found out it was my ICM..just like you explained in your video ..the ICM was stopping my car from starting(firing)..thank you so much for making detailed videos..
Thanks. I watched this video back when you first uploaded it. I used these methods today to diagnosis a Cadillac with the same kind of set up. Ended up being low compression on 2 and 4 (32 psi) the rest were around (160psi) But I ruled out everything else before going there using the methods you used here. I talked to you about a Honda a few months back. Amp on pump were 4.5. If that reminds you. After taking your comments and rethinking it ended up being the cap had very small cracks in it. I just happened to notice it only after it sat all night and tried to start it in the garage before I turned all the lights on. I seen the spark jump the outside of the cap. It threw me off because when I initially looked at it there was spark at the boots down by the plugs. So thanks for that advice and making me rethink my diagnosis.
Well done. I don't know much about cars, but I feel like you explained everything well and your students are very lucky to be under your guidance. I hope this is the problem I am having with my 04 Malibu because this seems like a easy fix. Thank you.
Best Diagnostic Videos on you-tube. Liked to have seen you jumper the Module to the Coil-Pak, and switch the coil driver signals between 1-4 and 2-3 in order to do the current test on 2-3 with a known good driver transistor from 1-4. Sacrifice the known bad module rather than possibly damaging the 2-3 driver in the new module.
on this system any misfire can also set a cam code because it is synthesized (created by the ICM based on firing KV of one of the coils) also a severe miss will set a map code. this engine is known for chain guide failure and it will jump time. Is it very noisy in the chain area?
Gr8 vid! Is like I"m in hi-tec autoshop class! 2006 HHR, partial miss only during medium or higher throttle during low rpm accel. p0302, p0340, p0341, p0420. Reset Check Engine light, still misses under load, no light yet this morning. Thnx for posting!
Also, yes you are right about the power transistors. You could check them with a DMM on diode check setting or continuity check and look for short circuits. On diode check, if short, would see 0.00 but if good, you'd see somewhere between 0.3 - 0.8. A transistor is simply 2 back - to - back diodes. If you have your leads backward, you'll see it say a very high number or even infinite.... You cannot fix these boards. The silicon chip, what you see, is welded to the board and the board is actually integrated with the silicon and is what we call "substrate" If you go down and buy a transistor, in the big metal package, called a to-3 pack, and cut the hat part off, you will see the same thing as on this board. You will see a silicon chip with 2 wires coming off of it and welded to the substrate, or chassis of the part. The 2 chips could be replaced but you'd have to get them from the manufacturer of the board itself... Not gonna happen. All patented, licensed, top secret, James Bond spy shit!!! :-D If these boards were meant to be repaired, at all, they would have descrete parts. All of those black areas on the board are precision resistors and other stuff, secret stuff. The transistors would be mounted to the board and heat sink NOT welded on. All of the descrete surface mount parts are ceramic capacitors, of very low value to filter noise from coming into the module and from going out. Yep, they were meant for throw-away only. I'm going to try to rescue that sweet little heatsink.... :-D
Good video. Most old GM' s have these failures and at one time there was a recall and NTSB alert for cars that would shut off ignition for no reason while you were driving and losing power steering and brakes. The culprit is that same coil controller. It almost got me killed one time with a dump truck tailing close behind.
Thanks for the response! I understand current flow is the same at any point in a series ckt. However, if there is no continuity in that ckt., there can't be flow. That's why there was the missing current ramp. So if there is a break in the primary ckt. inside the coil itself, there should be no current flow on the positive coil wire unless I am missing something. Maybe a small amount of coil induction the scope picks up? As always, thank you for all that you do for all of us.
Just an update, it really didn't make sense to me that the car ran, but neither pin on the icm would fire. So I pulled off the coil pack & the spark plug boots & turned it over to check spark. I got spark out of the outside cylinders, but not the inside. I decided to take another crack at testing the ICM. One pin fired, the other didn't. Replaced the ICM & it runs great again! The pins were gunked up with dielectric grease, thought I made good contact the first time but apparently not. Thanks!
When I saw the ramp I thought it was the coil, but always scanner danner one step forward to think of other possibility of problem,, Thank for the good video...Paul..
Again, I appreciate the knowledge you shared through the video & your responses. This was a much better method than I usually implement, which is guessing & throwing new parts at it! You helped save me cash & a lot of frustration. Thanks.
I tried your suggestions on my 04 Malibu and while it was missing the coil and module weren't to blame. The 2nd and 4th spark plugs were missing but the electode was burned down on both of them. We changed the plugs and it kept missing. We changed the coils and module and nothing changed. The new plugs that I put in fouled immediately and it took a while to figure that out. But we used 2 of the old plugs and it wasn't missing. We changed the plugs with iridium plugs and changed the coil just because the 2 plugs were burnt and the other 2 weren't so. Now it runs like a champ. Onto the struts.
In those cases, I keep an old set of spark plug wires in my arsenal of diagnostic tools. I'll remove the coil housing and run extensions (using the old plug wires) to the spark plugs. This allows me to do cylinder drop testing and visual inspections. Nice that you got it fixed!
the flat tops are from the ICM current limiting the coils (totally normal). It was there before too. I believe the one shot showed higher amps at one point in time. (around 8) but I am not sure when that occurred. maybe during cranking?
This comment is for mike, well ima start off by saying this automotive field is going into a different direction this is not just for the average mechanic anymore with all the newer cars with all the new technology that they're putting into these cars you will have to have some knowledge in how to diagnose a car with lab scope watching data watching signals and etc , also you have to remember he's in a classroom setting so you might have a lot of guys go straight to the problem and fix the problem but scanner Danner actually show you different methods and what you can use to find the issue . Now if a person can't understand the terminologies and the actual pass he takes I can understand why a person doesn't like his message and his lectures but for a person like me that knows where this field is going and want to further my career in this field, I can actually say I appreciate him for his Intel. If you can appreciate what's going on don't want you don't subscribe save a space for a person that appreciates it and wanna learn something.
Thank you very much for that. The car will likely be back as the owner was planning to park it for the winter. That will be the first thing I check when it comes back.
If neither pin would pulse, we have to worry about the crank sensor input before we condemn the ICM. See if you have injector pulse. Disconnect one injector and do the same test. One side should be hot during cranking and the other is a pulsed ground. To test the pulsed ground wire, connect test light to battery positive. If the light does not pulse, then we definitely need to worry about an input problem and not the ICM.
okay. I see what you're saying and I think this is where you and I are on different pages. I was not on coil positive but was on module positive. so you see, any current flow entering the model I will see it. including base circuit current for a transistor. if I was actually on coil positive itself which is not possible on this car then you would be correct
sorry I didn't answer your first question. The MIL was flashing, but this had no effect on my direction. I started with ignition because it was the easiest to do. Also the exhaust stunk like raw fuel. (forgot to mention that in the video)
I bit the bullet today, got a 2.2 Opel Zafira Z22SE, old ecu, 2 pins green and missing on TPS. Never bothered to start the engine with old ecu. ECU replaced, engine was running in 2 cylinders, that is 2 and 3. Schematics pulled, saw 4 wires from ECU to spark coil, I assumed were all ECU spark command for individual cylinders. Scoped them all, 2 were showing what I expect, one had a 5V PWM but wider and the other one nothing (which btw, the wire is not shown in this video diagrams, that is the D connector). Measured to ground the nothing one and had a short to ground in the ECU. So I assumed again and how wrong I was, that: spark module faulty on one cylinder and that ECU is faulty on another cylinder. If I only saw your video before, but not all is lost, replacement ECU is still on the engine and Owner will change the complete ignition coil to see if it works in 3 or 4 cyl. I am now sure it will work in 4. It is so bad when car has more than 1 failure, and you are called to fix that one, and there is another existing fault.
we got another one of these godforsaken 2.2 ecotec cyl 2/3 misfires in! awesome. the two middle cylinders are deadsville. when it's actually running there's an awful racket from the front cover area...should do a compression test first before i dig into the electrical bits. it and i are going to do battle tomorrow and i have this video to help, thanks Paul!
Nice Video, What bothers me is the design of control module, the pins on module must be Female not Male, as they are hot, safer this way. You faced the problem when measuring, as it was easy to short 2 pins. This is common practice in electronics/electrical system to have the hot connector as female. Thanks you for sharing.
2006 HHR with the 2.2 ecotec. Driving, engine lays over, no power, reduced power in dash. Now still runs, however, very rough idle. bogs under med-heavy throttle. Factory plugs at 190,000 km. I decided it needs those anyway, so lets start there. Change plugs, no go. test ICM, good power supply and ground control. 1 code in storage, p2101. I checked for any obvious wiring rubbage and didn't find any. Checked under the fuse box for any fuckery, didn't see any. I also noticed with a data log some strange behavior with the throttle postion. at idle, it's showing 33%. To the floor, it only goes to 88%. With some advice from you guys, we decided to change the throttle body. Replaced throttle body. Did not fix issue. however, the code disappeared. Instead I got a random misfire code. As I said, changed the plugs and tested the ICM. Double checked that, tested ICM control side. Also tested coils with air gap test to test light. all seems good there. What I noticed however, was the o2 temp. After only running for maybe 2 minutes, it was at 1100*. I unpluged the o2, no change. I removed the o2 to check for plugged cat, no change. I did pull the plugs, and noticed that the engine appears to be running quite rich. Is the possible the ICM is faulty, as in the way the cam signal side of things work within it, despite testing good for ground controls
Great explanation. My 05 has eaten 5 or more icms in the last 20k miles. The last two i never got 20 miles a piece. Where would i look for the cause of this. I loose 2cyls every time. So i still have power in since 2 cyls still fire. So now we are looking at one of the two grounds shorting. So in order fo a ground to short it has to be failing to short or it has to short to a hot. Am i thinking right? Where should i look? Just test for ground on the two outside pins? Do i need someone to crank while i test for ground or could i just use an olmes meter and ground to them pins?
Hi Paul, top video once more. Your contributions to youtube are priceless imho. Really like the final "dissection" of the faulty module. Once I fixed an ABS module that had the positive feed wire broken loose from the circuit board. Fix didn't last though. Best option is replacement
Two questions, one, why does GM draw the coils to look like the camsi grounds two of the coils? Two, if the primary coil is open, how can you see the transister turn on current with the amp probe on the positive coil feed wire? I could see it if you hooked the current probe to the ground side of the primary ckt. As always, thank you very much for tackling these complex subjects so that we all might learn.
I am with you on the uselessness of most ohms test by the way. Most of my test leads read from .1-.4ohms when I short them together. This seems to leave most low-ohms test in a grey area. I am going to do some ringer test experiments on ignition coils using some of my electronic servicing test equipment. That should be fun. I reference your Book quite often, and look forward to your new case studies.
I worked at the saturn dealer I cant tell you how many times we would get a customer that had a coil, plugs and icm replaced because of a misfire and the coil and/or icm keeps failing sometimes aftermarket shops would bring them in too and you take it apart to see some aftermarket plugs like something you see on tv in it and that was the problem because the resistance was so different then factory. Had a customer that replaced everything like 6 different times, 2 part stores stopped warranting the parts so he bougt them a few times. They come to the shop and ended up knowing from school so when I explained everyting and said dealer parts only the husband starts telling me how both part stores told him the plugs he got were the best and doesnt think this will fix it. The wife said to do it and 3 months later they came for an oil change and it was all good.
Thank you for the film. Can you tell what grease goes inside of the ICM and possibly where do you apply it? In my coil compartment (22:21 to the very right) for the ICM there was a blob of some grease. Is it supposed to be there? And if so what grease is it? For the new ICM AC Delco gives a pack of grease to put on the female connectors, but where exactly? And nothing said to put into the coil compartment. Do you put any grease on the metallic plate of the module?
Thanks so much! I knew there had to be a way to test a module on that Ecotec engine. 2001 Saturn L200 2.2L Ecotech no start, fuel pressure within specs, scanner sees RPM signal from Crank Sensor but still no spark.
that icm is a big GM boo boo Ive replaced more than i can count i like the control squarewave too amp ramp comparison very useful . I've learned tremendously from these videos and i use the scope way more i grab it for everything now thanks alot man
I would like to update that I checked the spark plugs which were supposedly changed by a friends "mechanic" friend and they were original!. The car has almost 190,000 miles on it and the plugs from cyl's #1&3 the center electrode was worn all the way down to the insulator. I put a fresh set of plugs in and it runs like a top now!
I drove a 2006 Chev Cobalt with the same engine into a local mechanic after getting a code P0128 to have them put on a new thermostat and CKP sensor. Was given these two solutions as possible causes for the code. After the mechanic put on the new thermostat and sensor, the car would crank but not start. I was told there was a damaged wire at the sensor, and they installed a 6" connector between the sensor and the ECM. Car still would not start. I was told the next thing they could do would be to replace the wiring harness ($400). I decided to have the car towed to the house instead of leaving it with the mechanic. A bit disturbing to drive a car to a mechanic and then have to have it towed out after they replace 2 parts and am told that replacing the wiring harness "may" fix it. After watching this video, I tested the ICM the same way you did with the test light. Just like yours in the video, It gets power, but the coils are not getting the signals. I replaced the ICM with a new one, and I'm getting the same thing. I've checked resistance between the sensor and the ECM, and between the ICM and ECM and the wiring seems/tests ok with a simply ohm test. Any obvious place to look next? Battery is new, has a new CKP sensor, tried a new ICM and pulled a used ECM from the junkyard just to check. The used ECM would not even crank the car. Swapped out the TCM with a used just to say I had replaced every module I could see that was in the area. I haven't looked at a wiring diagram for the car, but hoping you might know what the next place to look would be in the ICM is brand new having the same problem as the one in the video.
No signals or control at the ICM should have guided you away from the ICM as the cause. Do you have injector pulse? Why was the crank sensor replaced in the first place? A P0128 code has nothing to do with the crank sensor. After they replaced the crank sensor, it wouldn't start? You at least know where to start looking. Crank sensor itself, or the harness to the crank sensor.
ScannerDanner Sorry P0336 code is why the sensor was replaced. I left that out above. The P0128 was why the thermostat was replaced. The ICM will light the test light with key on, but does not pulse with crank
So you had a crank sensor code before they changed the crank sensor and now it doesn't start suggests you never needed a crank sensor in the first place. I'd look very very closely at that crank sensor harness.
I appreciate the reply. What confused me was that it did run, it ran crappy, but it did run. If neither pin fired, how did it run at all? I'll check the injector, hopefully tomorrow. Thanks, Bob
I feel that you made this video especially for me. I'm fixing up a 2003 Ion that has been sitting for a few years. Put a new fuel pump in it to get it to start, and it's running on two cylinders. Now I can head out with the meter and test light, and find the problem instead of throwing parts at it.
Great vid I've got an 05 ion 2 2.2L. Had random misfire and p0302 misfire in cylinder 2. Ran fuel pressure test, 3 different brands of plugs all gapped correctly and even tried compression test in all four cylinders. Had good spark compression and fuel pressure. I tried a fuel injector cleaner by Lucas and it seemed to clear the issue up but that putter and flashing engine light came right back on. I'm going to try a new fuel injector for cylinder 2 and ignition coil with new booties. If that doesn't work there's another thing that might cause it. And that's the tensioner for the timing chain they wear out bit highly unlikely that's the issue for the misfire
ScannerDanner, 1st off thanks a million for the best diagnostic video on the net. My question is DOES GM MOST GM DEALERS HAVE THAT DIAGNOSTIC HARNESS U MENTIONED?? I changed plugs n dont wanna waste $$ replacing working parts..
staticnate refresh my memory. are you talking about running temporary spark plug wires from the coil housing to the plugs? just use any set of plug wires
I have a 2000 cavalier and I am wondering if the coil packs failing is common.? I have a intermittent misfire situation. When it happens ,no power ,fuel mileage terrible.
Yes it is. Compression sounds more or less even when cranking in clear flood mode but that was just a quick test for something obvious - I haven't put a gauge on it yet.
Great video. I plan to use it to try to diagnose some of my misfire issues. Could you provide a list of the tools you used for the diagnosis. I saw that you used a Light Tester, and Multimeter. I'm assuming you used an OBD2 reader to see that the 2 cylinders were misfiring. Which tools did you use to see the ramps and square waves?
hi I had a po341 on the same engine it was going down the road in first gear with feet off the pedal at 2grand(five speed) so I investigated the code and it explained a bad ground on IM base plate so I also pulled plugs they were some kinda weird plugs with way more than a .040 gap so I put proper plugs in gapped correctly and I wire brushed bottom of baseplate on IM and the spot on the engine where it mount oh when I took it off to service it I found one bolt missing that created a gap on base plate it was also real dirty serviced it it ran good thanks scanner
Hey ScannerDanner! Great videos,learned a lot, it specially from ''understanding long and short fuel trim'' video. I'm learning to be an automotive technician, really enjoy working on cars. I wanted ask you some questions. What scanner tool you would recommend, for performing fast and defective diagnosing? Of course, I can't afford equipment like you have, but I am looking at AutoLink AL619. Do you recommend buying one? AND,is USB digital 2CH oscilloscope for around 100$ any good? Tnx you ;)
Paul I bought one of your lecture videos of pressure sensors. Hopefully you have a case study regarding fuel rail pressure sensors that cause the engine to run lean. Great video btw!
Awesome video and information. In my situation I have steady power in the center pin but I'm not getting spark pulses when I hooked my light probe on the negative ground to the side pins from center power pin. Swapped ignition module and still the same issue. Any tips on where to look next?
Check the cam cover to the cylinder head braided ground strap especially on an '02 Ecotec. Loose, corroded damaged or missing it will cause the ignition system to instead ground through the ICM connector ground wire which is too small for the load when hot. So you can end up with no to a mediocre ground for the ignition system. Not sure why the ignition was wired this way.
Thanks so much for another great video!!! Do you have any idea what I should check if both the ICM module and the coil packs test good? Was getting p0330 and p0454. Put in new ICM and now I’m getting p0454 and p0128. P0330 is gone but car still stumbling bad. Runs good for the first 5 minutes or so but seems like as soon as it warms up it gets worse. I’m stumped.
Derek Binding It’s worth a shot to try it. it only takes a minute to clean it out. When I got this car it ran perfectly fine and then one day out of the blue it wouldn’t hardly run at all.
If the 2 drivers are not flushing using the test light does it mean that the drivers are bad or the ecm is not sending the pulses to the ignition control module??
Synthesized. Meaning it is created by an ignition strike on TDC compression (kv is higher than on exhaust on a waste spark coil) and then the module produces a "cam signal" based on this strike
RE: the 0.5 ohm reading-if the coils are supposed to be 1-2Ω each, a 0.5 Ω reading is in spec, as they're measured in parallel pairs (which will result in a smaller overall resistance, as per Ohm's Law for parallel circuits). Assuming the coils have nearly the same resistance, each coil is 1Ω.
Good morning ScannerDanner 🙏 🌄 Take care 👍 Have a great day ScannerDanner 👍 God bless Great tutorial thanks 👍 From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Great video…I just tested my coil pack with my multimeter set to ohms at 200 and it showed 49.5 on one side and 3.3 on the other…is this the cause of my misfire? The ignition module seems to be working just fine…thanks for the video!
@@ScannerDanner I have a misfire. I tested the ignition module exactly the way you suggested in the video. Then I tested the coil pack with my multimeter and got the results I mentioned in my original message.
prior to starting the vehicle to test the ICM was the coil pack actually connected to the spark plugs or were they just laying on top of them? Also was the fuel disconnected aswell? Need to know cause I need to check my ICM out to see if it is working
Hello, first best wishes for this new year and thank you, you make a great job, I am looking for help, well I put myself in trouble => I think I overfilled my engine with oil, It is a "old baby", a Chevrolet S10 1987 (Durango) 2.8L V6, when I tried to start, it was ok but after maybe 20 s the engine stop, I drained the oil, now it cranks but doesn't start and no spark, with a friend we checked and changed plugs for new ones, please have you any idea
Nice video Paul. I did all the test that you did my problem is that when I do the test light and crank at same time I get a very poor light, so I'm thinking that it might be a poor ground emitted from the computer and with that not enough spark.Any suggestions on how to fix that. Thanks
![No Spark Diagnostics "Control Testing" Part 1 [a ScannerDanner Premium video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7nHbctRwyys/mqdefault.jpg)
Wish I could attend your school...idk ur if students are aware of how valuable ur information is! Your training the next generation of technicians!
Thanks so much! You can join my classes online if you're interested.
www.scannerdanner.com/join-scannerdanner-premium.html
Hope to see you there
You and Eric are still to this day the best 2 guys on this platform.
Incredibly good 👍🏼 !! Thanks for opening up the failed ignition coil module in order to show us the actual transistor whose job it is to switch on and off the coil. That’s excellent teaching techniques and dedication to bring us students the best learning experience anywhere !!!
Thank you so much!
You are a real 2013 mechanic. All other mechanics are just part changers. You actually know what is wrong and how it should be.
thank you my friend! so nice the hear. this is what I am striving for. to provide those that cannot attend my class in person to actually feel like they are part of it.
Awesome video and extremely well explained. I have a 2002 Chevy Cavalier with this same 2.2 liter DOHC engine and it started running on 2 cylinders intermittently so it was not easy to track the problem. It was enough to overheat and destroy the catalytic converter due to the misfire and fuel that was not being burned in those two cylinders.
A very nice Sunday morning watch. My 2004 Cavalier is the same. I have yet to experience any ignition issues. But now, I know in-depth how it works. In addition, you've provided a nice detailed tour of the subsystem for me to experience without getting my hands dirty just before breakfast!
Here's to another three decades of avoiding retail automotive repair expenses!
Thanks for taking the time and putting forth the effort to produce these diagnostic videos. Better educated DIY'ers and professional technicians make the world a better place.
I would like to thank you for this video. Today I struggled to troubleshoot my wife's 2004 alero that has the same motor as this car. After replacing the coil housing, plugs, and boots with no result I was about to give up. Then I found your video and went and purchased a cheap test light and checked the control module and ended up with the same results as you did. I changed it with a new one from autozone and now the car is running perfect so thank you very much.
Currently working through your video lectures whilst following your Ebook, couple this with the detailed RUclips videos you produce and your providing a full on education! I've been on quite a few uk training courses and none one even comes closes to how you teach and explain things. Fantastic stuff yet again Paul!
I was having a serious problem with a P0341 code on the same kind of car. Could not find any videos on how to test the ICM until I seen your video. I really appreciate your teaching. Thank you.
Thank you so much for this vid!!! I went out, took off the module, checked the coil resistance, tested the module pins but used DMM on AC setting... one pin toggled voltage... the other did not... Replaced the module and she purrs like a kitten!!!! Again,,, THANKS SO MUCH!!!
No problem man, it was my fault for not making that clear enough in the video.
I'm glad that it makes sense to you now. It is a pretty cool concept if you think about it. I've only used it a handful of times and each time it has been accurate. But I am sure there is some variable out there that it wouldn't be.
Great video, as a computer tech for nearly 30 years it was nice to relate my knowledge to how my car (2004 2.2 Saturn Vue) works........or in this case doesn't work.
Just drove 110 miles home from work with a 2 cyl misfire (5 hours - lots of hills), changed the ICM before I started hoping that would do the trick but unfortunately not. Now at least I understand how things are supposed to work I can do some testing before jumping in and spending $$$ on parts I don't need to replace.
no, first thing is the test light wouldn't carry enough current flow. these coils need over 6 amps of current to charge properly. also using a jumper wire is not a good idea either as you will most likely "overcharge" the coil (too much current flow) and it doesn't work anyway.
thanks for the comment!
because current flow is the same on the positive or negative side of a circuit. normally you can't see base ckt current because it is occurring the same time as primary current. however if the primary coil is open you can see it as I showed in the case study in my eBook
The case studies are priceless as well the information provide in sections two and three. I become a better tech each time I watch a case study as I am sure everyone else does, keepem coming !
:-) I thought about doing that. Here is why I didn't. First the ohm test showed me equal resistance on both coils and second, in my experience, these transistor drivers are protected from over current situations. At least for a little while anyway. Long enough for me to make the final call on the coil. I really felt there was no danger to the driver for this small period of time.
I like the way you think though. It would have been cool to do what you suggested.
I found out it was my ICM..just like you explained in your video ..the ICM was stopping my car from starting(firing)..thank you so much for making detailed videos..
Henry Yiulin cool man, glad it helped you!
Thanks. I watched this video back when you first uploaded it. I used these methods today to diagnosis a Cadillac with the same kind of set up. Ended up being low compression on 2 and 4 (32 psi) the rest were around (160psi)
But I ruled out everything else before going there using the methods you used here.
I talked to you about a Honda a few months back. Amp on pump were 4.5. If that reminds you. After taking your comments and rethinking it ended up being the cap had very small cracks in it. I just happened to notice it only after it sat all night and tried to start it in the garage before I turned all the lights on. I seen the spark jump the outside of the cap.
It threw me off because when I initially looked at it there was spark at the boots down by the plugs.
So thanks for that advice and making me rethink my diagnosis.
awesome glad you fixed it. this "control" testing with a test light is useful and many different designs. and now you know it!
Well done. I don't know much about cars, but I feel like you explained everything well and your students are very lucky to be under your guidance. I hope this is the problem I am having with my 04 Malibu because this seems like a easy fix. Thank you.
Best Diagnostic Videos on you-tube.
Liked to have seen you jumper the Module to the Coil-Pak,
and switch the coil driver signals between 1-4 and 2-3 in
order to do the current test on 2-3 with a known good driver
transistor from 1-4.
Sacrifice the known bad module rather than possibly damaging
the 2-3 driver in the new module.
on this system any misfire can also set a cam code because it is synthesized (created by the ICM based on firing KV of one of the coils)
also a severe miss will set a map code. this engine is known for chain guide failure and it will jump time. Is it very noisy in the chain area?
Gr8 vid! Is like I"m in hi-tec autoshop class! 2006 HHR, partial miss only during medium or higher throttle during low rpm accel. p0302, p0340, p0341, p0420. Reset Check Engine light, still misses under load, no light yet this morning. Thnx for posting!
Also, yes you are right about the power transistors. You could check them with a DMM on diode check setting or continuity check and look for short circuits. On diode check, if short, would see 0.00 but if good, you'd see somewhere between 0.3 - 0.8. A transistor is simply 2 back - to - back diodes. If you have your leads backward, you'll see it say a very high number or even infinite.... You cannot fix these boards. The silicon chip, what you see, is welded to the board and the board is actually integrated with the silicon and is what we call "substrate" If you go down and buy a transistor, in the big metal package, called a to-3 pack, and cut the hat part off, you will see the same thing as on this board. You will see a silicon chip with 2 wires coming off of it and welded to the substrate, or chassis of the part. The 2 chips could be replaced but you'd have to get them from the manufacturer of the board itself... Not gonna happen. All patented, licensed, top secret, James Bond spy shit!!! :-D If these boards were meant to be repaired, at all, they would have descrete parts. All of those black areas on the board are precision resistors and other stuff, secret stuff. The transistors would be mounted to the board and heat sink NOT welded on. All of the descrete surface mount parts are ceramic capacitors, of very low value to filter noise from coming into the module and from going out. Yep, they were meant for throw-away only. I'm going to try to rescue that sweet little heatsink.... :-D
Good video. Most old GM' s have these failures and at one time there was a recall and NTSB alert for cars that would shut off ignition for no reason while you were driving and losing power steering and brakes. The culprit is that same coil controller. It almost got me killed one time with a dump
truck tailing close behind.
Thanks for the response! I understand current flow is the same at any point in a series ckt. However, if there is no continuity in that ckt., there can't be flow. That's why there was the missing current ramp. So if there is a break in the primary ckt. inside the coil itself, there should be no current flow on the positive coil wire unless I am missing something. Maybe a small amount of coil induction the scope picks up? As always, thank you for all that you do for all of us.
not sure. wish the manufacturers would give us more of that type of information.
thanks for the tip
Just an update, it really didn't make sense to me that the car ran, but neither pin on the icm would fire. So I pulled off the coil pack & the spark plug boots & turned it over to check spark. I got spark out of the outside cylinders, but not the inside. I decided to take another crack at testing the ICM. One pin fired, the other didn't. Replaced the ICM & it runs great again! The pins were gunked up with dielectric grease, thought I made good contact the first time but apparently not. Thanks!
Such a good video , makes it all so clear because I like definitive test .
When I saw the ramp I thought it was the coil, but always scanner danner one step forward to think of other possibility of problem,, Thank for the good video...Paul..
Again, I appreciate the knowledge you shared through the video & your responses. This was a much better method than I usually implement, which is guessing & throwing new parts at it! You helped save me cash & a lot of frustration. Thanks.
I tried your suggestions on my 04 Malibu and while it was missing the coil and module weren't to blame. The 2nd and 4th spark plugs were missing but the electode was burned down on both of them. We changed the plugs and it kept missing. We changed the coils and module and nothing changed. The new plugs that I put in fouled immediately and it took a while to figure that out. But we used 2 of the old plugs and it wasn't missing. We changed the plugs with iridium plugs and changed the coil just because the 2 plugs were burnt and the other 2 weren't so. Now it runs like a champ. Onto the struts.
In those cases, I keep an old set of spark plug wires in my arsenal of diagnostic tools. I'll remove the coil housing and run extensions (using the old plug wires) to the spark plugs. This allows me to do cylinder drop testing and visual inspections.
Nice that you got it fixed!
the flat tops are from the ICM current limiting the coils (totally normal). It was there before too.
I believe the one shot showed higher amps at one point in time. (around 8) but I am not sure when that occurred. maybe during cranking?
Hey thanks! I haven't advertised that, how did you find out?
This comment is for mike, well ima start off by saying this automotive field is going into a different direction this is not just for the average mechanic anymore with all the newer cars with all the new technology that they're putting into these cars you will have to have some knowledge in how to diagnose a car with lab scope watching data watching signals and etc , also you have to remember he's in a classroom setting so you might have a lot of guys go straight to the problem and fix the problem but scanner Danner actually show you different methods and what you can use to find the issue . Now if a person can't understand the terminologies and the actual pass he takes I can understand why a person doesn't like his message and his lectures but for a person like me that knows where this field is going and want to further my career in this field, I can actually say I appreciate him for his Intel. If you can appreciate what's going on don't want you don't subscribe save a space for a person that appreciates it and wanna learn something.
Thank you very much for that. The car will likely be back as the owner was planning to park it for the winter. That will be the first thing I check when it comes back.
If neither pin would pulse, we have to worry about the crank sensor input before we condemn the ICM.
See if you have injector pulse. Disconnect one injector and do the same test. One side should be hot during cranking and the other is a pulsed ground. To test the pulsed ground wire, connect test light to battery positive.
If the light does not pulse, then we definitely need to worry about an input problem and not the ICM.
okay. I see what you're saying and I think this is where you and I are on different pages. I was not on coil positive but was on module positive. so you see, any current flow entering the model I will see it. including base circuit current for a transistor.
if I was actually on coil positive itself which is not possible on this car then you would be correct
another top video. things just seem to get simpler after one of these tutorials. thanks a lot.
sorry I didn't answer your first question. The MIL was flashing, but this had no effect on my direction. I started with ignition because it was the easiest to do. Also the exhaust stunk like raw fuel. (forgot to mention that in the video)
That's where I went wrong. The module positive! I appreciate you clearing that up for me. It makes perfect sense now! thanks!
Best diagnostic case studies on RUclips. Great video as always.
I bit the bullet today, got a 2.2 Opel Zafira Z22SE, old ecu, 2 pins green and missing on TPS. Never bothered to start the engine with old ecu. ECU replaced, engine was running in 2 cylinders, that is 2 and 3. Schematics pulled, saw 4 wires from ECU to spark coil, I assumed were all ECU spark command for individual cylinders. Scoped them all, 2 were showing what I expect, one had a 5V PWM but wider and the other one nothing (which btw, the wire is not shown in this video diagrams, that is the D connector). Measured to ground the nothing one and had a short to ground in the ECU. So I assumed again and how wrong I was, that: spark module faulty on one cylinder and that ECU is faulty on another cylinder. If I only saw your video before, but not all is lost, replacement ECU is still on the engine and Owner will change the complete ignition coil to see if it works in 3 or 4 cyl. I am now sure it will work in 4. It is so bad when car has more than 1 failure, and you are called to fix that one, and there is another existing fault.
we got another one of these godforsaken 2.2 ecotec cyl 2/3 misfires in! awesome. the two middle cylinders are deadsville. when it's actually running there's an awful racket from the front cover area...should do a compression test first before i dig into the electrical bits.
it and i are going to do battle tomorrow and i have this video to help, thanks Paul!
Nice Video,
What bothers me is the design of control module, the pins on module must be Female not Male, as they are hot, safer this way.
You faced the problem when measuring, as it was easy to short 2 pins.
This is common practice in electronics/electrical system to have the hot connector as female.
Thanks you for sharing.
🤔🤨
Congratulations on your 2012 APSCU) annual achievement award .
2006 HHR with the 2.2 ecotec. Driving, engine lays over, no power, reduced power in dash. Now still runs, however, very rough idle. bogs under med-heavy throttle.
Factory plugs at 190,000 km. I decided it needs those anyway, so lets start there. Change plugs, no go. test ICM, good power supply and ground control. 1 code in storage, p2101. I checked for any obvious wiring rubbage and didn't find any. Checked under the fuse box for any fuckery, didn't see any.
I also noticed with a data log some strange behavior with the throttle postion. at idle, it's showing 33%. To the floor, it only goes to 88%.
With some advice from you guys, we decided to change the throttle body.
Replaced throttle body. Did not fix issue. however, the code disappeared. Instead I got a random misfire code.
As I said, changed the plugs and tested the ICM. Double checked that, tested ICM control side. Also tested coils with air gap test to test light. all seems good there.
What I noticed however, was the o2 temp. After only running for maybe 2 minutes, it was at 1100*. I unpluged the o2, no change. I removed the o2 to check for plugged cat, no change.
I did pull the plugs, and noticed that the engine appears to be running quite rich.
Is the possible the ICM is faulty, as in the way the cam signal side of things work within it, despite testing good for ground controls
Great explanation. My 05 has eaten 5 or more icms in the last 20k miles. The last two i never got 20 miles a piece. Where would i look for the cause of this. I loose 2cyls every time. So i still have power in since 2 cyls still fire. So now we are looking at one of the two grounds shorting. So in order fo a ground to short it has to be failing to short or it has to short to a hot. Am i thinking right? Where should i look? Just test for ground on the two outside pins? Do i need someone to crank while i test for ground or could i just use an olmes meter and ground to them pins?
Junk parts these days. I would be also changing the coils too and buying good ones, not internet specials (not that you're doing that)
What an awesome detailed video !!! God bless you Sir . Watching from Canada,
Hi Paul, top video once more. Your contributions to youtube are priceless imho. Really like the final "dissection" of the faulty module.
Once I fixed an ABS module that had the positive feed wire broken loose from the circuit board. Fix didn't last though. Best option is replacement
good video, always like to see the detail that you show about things.
Two questions, one, why does GM draw the coils to look like the camsi grounds two of the coils? Two, if the primary coil is open, how can you see the transister turn on current with the amp probe on the positive coil feed wire? I could see it if you hooked the current probe to the ground side of the primary ckt. As always, thank you very much for tackling these complex subjects so that we all might learn.
I am with you on the uselessness of most ohms test by the way.
Most of my test leads read from .1-.4ohms when I short them together. This seems to leave most low-ohms test in a grey area.
I am going to do some ringer test experiments on ignition coils using some of my electronic servicing test equipment. That should be fun.
I reference your Book quite often, and look forward to your new case studies.
I worked at the saturn dealer I cant tell you how many times we would get a customer that had a coil, plugs and icm replaced because of a misfire and the coil and/or icm keeps failing sometimes aftermarket shops would bring them in too and you take it apart to see some aftermarket plugs like something you see on tv in it and that was the problem because the resistance was so different then factory. Had a customer that replaced everything like 6 different times, 2 part stores stopped warranting the parts so he bougt them a few times. They come to the shop and ended up knowing from school so when I explained everyting and said dealer parts only the husband starts telling me how both part stores told him the plugs he got were the best and doesnt think this will fix it. The wife said to do it and 3 months later they came for an oil change and it was all good.
Great video.I just do not understand that why GM does not hire you to write them proper flow charts for all of their diagnostics.
Thank you again
Thank you for the film. Can you tell what grease goes inside of the ICM and possibly where do you apply it? In my coil compartment (22:21 to the very right) for the ICM there was a blob of some grease. Is it supposed to be there? And if so what grease is it? For the new ICM AC Delco gives a pack of grease to put on the female connectors, but where exactly? And nothing said to put into the coil compartment. Do you put any grease on the metallic plate of the module?
These modules were always trouble prone. GM even issued a recall/TSB for them in the early 2000s.
I don't but you can be sure when I see one I will film it. Thanks!
Thanks so much! I knew there had to be a way to test a module on that Ecotec engine. 2001 Saturn L200 2.2L Ecotech no start, fuel pressure within specs, scanner sees RPM signal from Crank Sensor but still no spark.
what did you do to fix
what is the fuel psi under load or when you snap the throttle, does it drop?
that icm is a big GM boo boo Ive replaced more than i can count i like the control squarewave too amp ramp comparison very useful . I've learned tremendously from these videos and i use the scope way more i grab it for everything now thanks alot man
I would like to update that I checked the spark plugs which were supposedly changed by a friends "mechanic" friend and they were original!. The car has almost 190,000 miles on it and the plugs from cyl's #1&3 the center electrode was worn all the way down to the insulator. I put a fresh set of plugs in and it runs like a top now!
I drove a 2006 Chev Cobalt with the same engine into a local mechanic after getting a code P0128 to have them put on a new thermostat and CKP sensor. Was given these two solutions as possible causes for the code. After the mechanic put on the new thermostat and sensor, the car would crank but not start. I was told there was a damaged wire at the sensor, and they installed a 6" connector between the sensor and the ECM. Car still would not start. I was told the next thing they could do would be to replace the wiring harness ($400). I decided to have the car towed to the house instead of leaving it with the mechanic. A bit disturbing to drive a car to a mechanic and then have to have it towed out after they replace 2 parts and am told that replacing the wiring harness "may" fix it. After watching this video, I tested the ICM the same way you did with the test light. Just like yours in the video, It gets power, but the coils are not getting the signals. I replaced the ICM with a new one, and I'm getting the same thing. I've checked resistance between the sensor and the ECM, and between the ICM and ECM and the wiring seems/tests ok with a simply ohm test. Any obvious place to look next? Battery is new, has a new CKP sensor, tried a new ICM and pulled a used ECM from the junkyard just to check. The used ECM would not even crank the car. Swapped out the TCM with a used just to say I had replaced every module I could see that was in the area. I haven't looked at a wiring diagram for the car, but hoping you might know what the next place to look would be in the ICM is brand new having the same problem as the one in the video.
No signals or control at the ICM should have guided you away from the ICM as the cause.
Do you have injector pulse?
Why was the crank sensor replaced in the first place? A P0128 code has nothing to do with the crank sensor.
After they replaced the crank sensor, it wouldn't start? You at least know where to start looking. Crank sensor itself, or the harness to the crank sensor.
ScannerDanner Sorry P0336 code is why the sensor was replaced. I left that out above. The P0128 was why the thermostat was replaced. The ICM will light the test light with key on, but does not pulse with crank
So you had a crank sensor code before they changed the crank sensor and now it doesn't start suggests you never needed a crank sensor in the first place. I'd look very very closely at that crank sensor harness.
Crank sensor and harness test fine. Just checked for ignition pulse with a noid light. No pulse....
I appreciate the reply. What confused me was that it did run, it ran crappy, but it did run. If neither pin fired, how did it run at all? I'll check the injector, hopefully tomorrow. Thanks, Bob
Mitchell On Demand. The also have a version for the DIYer it's called Mitchell 1
Always good and clear explanation.thanks Paul
I feel that you made this video especially for me. I'm fixing up a 2003 Ion that has been sitting for a few years. Put a new fuel pump in it to get it to start, and it's running on two cylinders. Now I can head out with the meter and test light, and find the problem instead of throwing parts at it.
Great vid I've got an 05 ion 2 2.2L. Had random misfire and p0302 misfire in cylinder 2. Ran fuel pressure test, 3 different brands of plugs all gapped correctly and even tried compression test in all four cylinders. Had good spark compression and fuel pressure. I tried a fuel injector cleaner by Lucas and it seemed to clear the issue up but that putter and flashing engine light came right back on. I'm going to try a new fuel injector for cylinder 2 and ignition coil with new booties. If that doesn't work there's another thing that might cause it. And that's the tensioner for the timing chain they wear out bit highly unlikely that's the issue for the misfire
Keep the vids coming, very informative. I am not a professional mechanic but your turning me into a scan geek problem finder....and I like it! lol
ScannerDanner, 1st off thanks a million for the best diagnostic video on the net. My question is DOES GM MOST GM DEALERS HAVE THAT DIAGNOSTIC HARNESS U MENTIONED?? I changed plugs n dont wanna waste $$ replacing working parts..
staticnate refresh my memory. are you talking about running temporary spark plug wires from the coil housing to the plugs? just use any set of plug wires
I have a 2000 cavalier and I am wondering if the coil packs failing is common.? I have a intermittent misfire situation. When it happens ,no power ,fuel mileage terrible.
Amazing piece of knowledge and effort. A very unique skill so a big thumbs up for such a great research
Thank you!
Yes it is. Compression sounds more or less even when cranking in clear flood mode but that was just a quick test for something obvious - I haven't put a gauge on it yet.
Thanks so much, man! A bit detailed for my needs but it told me exactly what I needed to know to fix my girlfriend's Vue. Keep up the great work!
sweet video paul! now we need one for a honda where there ignitor and coil are in the distributor
Another great video, the ignition module teardown especially. I'd love to see more teardowns of defective components in future videos.
I got a 2003 Saturn Ion I was wondering if I put rims on it would affect the transmission?
That's nothing but excellent!!
Does those igniton drivers are always apart from the coils pack? Or might they be integrated to the coils pack too?
Great video. I plan to use it to try to diagnose some of my misfire issues. Could you provide a list of the tools you used for the diagnosis. I saw that you used a Light Tester, and Multimeter. I'm assuming you used an OBD2 reader to see that the 2 cylinders were misfiring. Which tools did you use to see the ramps and square waves?
hi I had a po341 on the same engine it was going down the road in first gear with feet off the pedal at 2grand(five speed) so I investigated the code and it explained a bad ground on IM base plate so I also pulled plugs they were some kinda weird plugs with way more than a .040 gap so I put proper plugs in gapped correctly and I wire brushed bottom of baseplate on IM and the spot on the engine where it mount oh when I took it off to service it I found one bolt missing that created a gap on base plate it was also real dirty serviced it it ran good thanks scanner
Extremely helpful... Tons of good info in here.
I gotta say man made me miss uti thanks alot helped me get threw my problems
Hey ScannerDanner! Great videos,learned a lot, it specially from ''understanding long and short fuel trim'' video. I'm learning to be an automotive technician, really enjoy working on cars. I wanted ask you some questions. What scanner tool you would recommend, for performing fast and defective diagnosing? Of course, I can't afford equipment like you have, but I am looking at AutoLink AL619. Do you recommend buying one? AND,is USB digital 2CH oscilloscope for around 100$ any good?
Tnx you ;)
I wish I could like this video more than once!
thanks so much!
Paul I bought one of your lecture videos of pressure sensors. Hopefully you have a case study regarding fuel rail pressure sensors that cause the engine to run lean. Great video btw!
Awesome video and information. In my situation I have steady power in the center pin but I'm not getting spark pulses when I hooked my light probe on the negative ground to the side pins from center power pin. Swapped ignition module and still the same issue. Any tips on where to look next?
No pulses is no control, crank sensor signal should be tested next
@@ScannerDanner Thanks!! CKP was the issue causing the no timing pulse at the ICM condition.
@@rigodiaz01 heck yeah, nice job!
Check the cam cover to the cylinder head braided ground strap especially on an '02 Ecotec. Loose, corroded damaged or missing it will cause the ignition system to instead ground through the ICM connector ground wire which is too small for the load when hot. So you can end up with no to a mediocre ground for the ignition system. Not sure why the ignition was wired this way.
Great test and fix. Couldn't you have put jumpers in between the module and the coil pack?
What scanner/scope do I need in order to thoroughly test ignition system? Thank you!
good job Paul, I use your methods all the time. keep up good videos I love to Watch them
Thanks so much for another great video!!! Do you have any idea what I should check if both the ICM module and the coil packs test good? Was getting p0330 and p0454. Put in new ICM and now I’m getting p0454 and p0128. P0330 is gone but car still stumbling bad. Runs good for the first 5 minutes or so but seems like as soon as it warms up it gets worse. I’m stumped.
Hey Troy, any luck. I've been struggling with same issue. Misfire after engine warms up. Looking into a ground resistance issue to see if that helps
djbinding I cleaned the throttle body and it’s been good as new ever since
@@troylehman5471 , i think i'm dealing with something else. Ran all winter fine. First warm day with a/c and the misfiring came.
Derek Binding It’s worth a shot to try it. it only takes a minute to clean it out. When I got this car it ran perfectly fine and then one day out of the blue it wouldn’t hardly run at all.
If the 2 drivers are not flushing using the test light does it mean that the drivers are bad or the ecm is not sending the pulses to the ignition control module??
Truly top notch content. Could you say what a synthetic cam signal is please? Says CSI pickup on ignition coil to module connector.
Synthesized. Meaning it is created by an ignition strike on TDC compression (kv is higher than on exhaust on a waste spark coil) and then the module produces a "cam signal" based on this strike
RE: the 0.5 ohm reading-if the coils are supposed to be 1-2Ω each, a 0.5 Ω reading is in spec, as they're measured in parallel pairs (which will result in a smaller overall resistance, as per Ohm's Law for parallel circuits). Assuming the coils have nearly the same resistance, each coil is 1Ω.
Good morning ScannerDanner 🙏 🌄 Take care 👍 Have a great day ScannerDanner 👍 God bless
Great tutorial thanks 👍
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Great video…I just tested my coil pack with my multimeter set to ohms at 200 and it showed 49.5 on one side and 3.3 on the other…is this the cause of my misfire? The ignition module seems to be working just fine…thanks for the video!
resistance testing ignition coils is not very accurate. Are you missing spark on one of your coil packs?
@@ScannerDanner I have a misfire. I tested the ignition module exactly the way you suggested in the video. Then I tested the coil pack with my multimeter and got the results I mentioned in my original message.
@@tonyperez1971 if all 4 coil towers are producing a strong spark, you need to go in another direction
@@ScannerDanner the coil pack is the same as the one in the video, how can I test all 4 coil towers for strong spark? Thanks for answering.
@@tonyperez1971 like this ruclips.net/video/yw48gKmsy-0/видео.html
prior to starting the vehicle to test the ICM was the coil pack actually connected to the spark plugs or were they just laying on top of them? Also was the fuel disconnected aswell? Need to know cause I need to check my ICM out to see if it is working
I'm not sure, this was a long time ago. Can you give a specific time frame on where your question is coming from please? Thanks!
Hello, first best wishes for this new year and thank you, you make a great job, I am looking for help, well I put myself in trouble => I think I overfilled my engine with oil, It is a "old baby", a Chevrolet S10 1987 (Durango) 2.8L V6, when I tried to start, it was ok but after maybe 20 s the engine stop, I drained the oil, now it cranks but doesn't start and no spark, with a friend we checked and changed plugs for new ones, please have you any idea
Nice video Paul. I did all the test that you did my problem is that when I do the test light and crank at same time I get a very poor light, so I'm thinking that it might be a poor ground emitted from the computer and with that not enough spark.Any suggestions on how to fix that. Thanks
Does the light flicker on the control pins when cranking and is your battery fully charged?
@@ScannerDanner I appreciate your response. yes the test light flicker but is a very dim light. Battery is fully charged.
@@pedropitoringote8906 as long as they flicker, the module is doing it's job. How is the supply voltage into the module?