Just squeezed 205,000 out of mine with the factory timing chain. Had to change plugs and cam solenoids at 115,000 and a steady quart of oil transfusion every 500 miles since 102,000. Lasted way longer than I expected! Bought the car new fall of 2016. Best advice that I can give on these is change oil every 3000 miles from the start and a little seafoam in the oil. The 7500 mile factory oil change interval is too long and is why the low tension oil rings get stuck between 60,000 - 100,000 miles. I learned the hard way at 102,000 when GM said sorry, we only offer extended coverage to 100,000.
I have a 2013 Equinox with a 2.4 liter. I replaced the timing chains, along with the VVT’s and both VVT solenoids at 145,000 miles. Everything was clean in my engine. I always changed the oil with the recommended synthetic oil. Never had any issues with it other than the usual oil consumption. But I always kept full of oil. Now it’s getting close to 170,000 miles and still runs great.
Very nice video of a complete teardown including bolt sizes. Lots of small stuff like bolts and sensors and such that could be worth having around some time in the future.
Question: I want to change the piston rings on an Ecotec (2012 Terrain) without taking the engine out. Can I push the pistons up after removing the oil pan? or does the lower head has to come off as well? such junk these engines--I am so fed up with it!
It is so much work taking the head off, and everything, you're best off tearing it all down, taking it to a machine shop, and getting a good plateau hone. Hack away, if you like to gamble.
If I may ask why do you not unbolt the timing chain tensioner right away, you said along the lines of “ if this was a good engine you wouldn’t want to do this just yet”
Can you tell me why this motor would lock up after some water in the engine? it turned over, but then locked up. removed plugs, but no luck.. its locked up! 😵😵
Locking up from water usually happens when you go through a really big mud puddle. A hydro locked engine will turn over when you remove spark plugs. Something else is going on.
The guide failure was unfortunate because this engine would be still running. I'm sure it was rattling for quite some time and the service light should have been on indicating that the camshaft sencers were not in correlation with the crankshaft sensor. The codes would have informed the operator that they had a timing chain issue. This engine could have easily be saved. The power loss when timing is out is usually significant.
I purchased a Malibu with the camshaft/crankshaft correlation codes. Seller was aware of this, and I informed him of what was needed. He said "just needs a camshaft position sensor". I gave him the bad news. Luckily he lowered the selling price $1000, which was the only way I'd buy it. I think a lot of sellers would have passed and tried to sell it to some other unsuspecting customer. I changed out chains/guides/tensioners immediately, and it has been great 30k miles and counting. I always wonder how long engines like the one in the video were ran with the check engine light on, until complete failure.
@@Jables77 if the codes pop up and it's because the chain is stretched. They will not go far before they jump a tooth usually at the crankshaft and then the valves hit the pistons and the Motor is junk. But if it's a tensioner failure , and the chain is not badly stretched, the engine will run much farther . But both issues will cause a undeniable rattle. The tensioner failure the rattle is much worse at startup and then gets a bit better. A stretched chain the rattle will be noticed regardless if it was just started many times it's the tensioner especially if the owner was taking care of the engine oil change wise. Some guys will just change the tensioner and then start it up if the rattle is gone they don't go any farther. The early 2.4 vvt 2010 to about 2013 have poor quality tensioners Gm improved the design about 2013 .you can also buy a high performance tensioner that has been modified with a heavier spring. I don't think it's required. A money grab.
@@jimmykulik3438 mine is a 2011 Malibu with the 2.4. I couldn’t tell what the actual problem was tensioner/chain, but I changed out all of it. I must have caught it in the early stages. (The seller stated the light had just come on) but you know how that goes. I couldn’t physically feel any slack in the chain but I’m sure there was since it was throwing codes. I used GM parts. Hoping I purchased a tensioner with the improved design you mentioned. When buying the chain kit, I came across mentions of this but couldn’t confirm which parts kits had these, if any.
@@Jables77 Gm sold the improved tensioner after 2014. If you did the job after January 2014 you have the new one. If before, you can buy the new one and simply remove the old one install it .if your engine sounds decent l would just leave it. If you ever get a rattle at startup. You know the chain is good and then I would replace it the tensioner can be removed any time you don't need to take any components off the engine just remove and install. It will initially rattle when it is changed because the tensioner must release but the initial slap of the chain and the oil pressure will initiate the tensioner and it will suddenly go quiet. Done.
Fun video. I always like taking apart an engine to see how it was designed. I too save all my scrap. It usually takes a few years, but I'll have a large load and I'm always surprised at the amount of cash you'll have when you separate the metals. This was a good tear down, maybe you'll have others if there is no core return. Hope you're doing well.
@@RustBeltAuto For sure. Yeah, got rid of a LOT of aluminum about a month ago, most I've ever got for that stuff! If you have the room, it's good to hoard it, lol!
Unrelated but my 2019 Camry is starting to get two rattles in the dash one driver side one passenger. I’ve been tempted to take it to the stealership. Some people has told me yes take it in and others said no it’ll cause more issues once they tear through the dash. Would you say to take it to them or will they even be able to fix it without making more problems?
@@RustBeltAuto It’s funny I always here the Toyota’s are solid but these newer ones don’t feel like it. The 8 speed is kind of clunky to from all the ones I’ve driven.
I know you're more of a Honda fan, but do you have an opinion on the Ecotec motors? They seem to be pretty well built - I've seen other channels that have some Ecotecs with high miles and/or pretty impressive hp.
I got a 2011 Buick regal with 230,000kms but I personally wouldn't recommend. It's a good motor with maintenance but it needs enough you'd think you're in a Mercedes but your in a GM product
Is there a way I can contact you directly? I’ve been chasing an electrical gremlin in my 02 civic and would like some advice. It seems to be a multiplex issue with the air conditioning but I’m not sure where to start. Any help would be appreciated thanks! -Dominic
@@RustBeltAuto I bought the car and the ac worked. It stopped working so I replaced the clutch still didn’t work replaced the compressor still didn’t work replaced the switch inside the cab to turn the recirculating air, the ac and the defrost still didn’t work. So did some tests on the relays and fuses and everything was getting power but some of the relays were getting power on pins that shouldn’t have power. I temporarily ran a ground wire to a switch in the cab to be able to turn the compressor on and off but I obviously need to get the issue fixed. I’ve narrowed it down to either a bad fuse box under the hood or the ecu. But I wanted a second opinion
Hey Rust Belt Auto. I was wondering if you would be able to help me learn a bit about rebuilds and boosting a car. I so happen to live in your area and I was wondering if I can come down sometime and meet you?
@@flamemikey5445 I learned everything the hard way too. The playlists I've created, and other video's I made is all I'm willing to offer. There are a lot of ways to learn in order to achieve your goals. Sometimes doing your own thing can be the most creative, and most beneficial to yourself, and others. I have paid it forward. Good luck!
I'm presently rebuilding a 5.4 in a jeep liberty I tried to get the guy to buy an engine from lkq told him it would be alot cheaper but nothing doing he had to have the engine in the Jeep rebuilt even at double the labor cost I don't care for that engine because of the three timing chains but he paid half the labor cost upfront and has a part account so all I got to do is call my order in
Most of the time the timing chain guides fail because of not changing the oil every 3-5 k miles. Machine shops and engine rebuilders and mechanics make a lot of money off people who don't change the car engine oil when they should. Pay 50$ or so instead of 5-10 k for replacing the car engine. Doesn't seem like a hard choice.
I came back to watch this again because my ma's 08 Malibu appears to have an oil leak around the seal of that timing chain cover somewhere. Not the easiest to tell for certain when the engine is still in the car, but given thats the only place where oil can come from on that side of the engine, I'd venture a guess that is where it's coming from. I question whether or not it's even worth doing. Car only has 100k on it and works and runs perfectly, leak aside.
Yeah, these are such trash engines. My aunt has one and i knew they had issues, but didn't research them too much. I was flabbergasted when the timing set had to be replaced at 65k miles. The car is barely 5 years old also, maintained at the dealer and she didn't procrastinate oil changes. Then a week later she gets the car back and another common problem hit, it was -20f here in Maine and the PCV vent froze up and blew out the rear main seal. It's so bad the engine pees oil out. So she's getting that fixed and then I find out these engines have piston ring problems too! I'll have to let her know to be careful. It's one thing to expect some problems at high miles, but all these expensive and major issues before 100k is pretty much unheard of if most decent cars.
With a little care they aren't that bad. Makes sure the intake manifold PCV ports are clear. Vent off fresh air side to atmosphere, cap off where it attaches to intake hose. Vent off oil fill tube, or cap to vent off the excessive blow by to a catch can that vents to atmosphere. 297k miles n counting.
@@Sludge73 Bill, We have a 2013 Terrain, with the 2.4L, thought I might have a problem at 80K? I searched the internet for info? I went with a K&N Intake Kit, a Corvette vented oil cap & a Home Depot air / oil separator for a compressor, Good to Go, that was 27K ago? Volvo 09, his Aunts engine might have been saved by a vented oil fill cap, SHAME on her Dealer?? I went to my 60 year old GMC only Dealer, service manager had NO idea about the problem or the recall, DUH ??? I've been a AMSOIL Dealer for almost 20 years, the Direct Injection Engines are Hard, even on AMSOIL?? Use the Best Oil & Filter you can buy! Google any questions about your engine?? Engines & oil are the Best ever, so what's the problem?? Oh, Honey that yellow light is on again, do I need Gas, NO, you need a Brain!! LOL
Just squeezed 205,000 out of mine with the factory timing chain. Had to change plugs and cam solenoids at 115,000 and a steady quart of oil transfusion every 500 miles since 102,000. Lasted way longer than I expected! Bought the car new fall of 2016. Best advice that I can give on these is change oil every 3000 miles from the start and a little seafoam in the oil. The 7500 mile factory oil change interval is too long and is why the low tension oil rings get stuck between 60,000 - 100,000 miles. I learned the hard way at 102,000 when GM said sorry, we only offer extended coverage to 100,000.
I have a 2013 Equinox with a 2.4 liter. I replaced the timing chains, along with the VVT’s and both VVT solenoids at 145,000 miles. Everything was clean in my engine. I always changed the oil with the recommended synthetic oil. Never had any issues with it other than the usual oil consumption. But I always kept full of oil. Now it’s getting close to 170,000 miles and still runs great.
Very nice video of a complete teardown including bolt sizes. Lots of small stuff like bolts and sensors and such that could be worth having around some time in the future.
Best mechanic channel on RUclips
You sure have come along way since your first toolbox your, I remember how reluctant you were to make that video
Yes. This was a lot of work, and took some getting used to.
Awesome really enjoyed the tear down Brisbane Australia
awesome i was needing to see it, to work in mine. thanks mate
Cool video Rusty!!! Love your channel. Keep em coming!!
Question: I want to change the piston rings on an Ecotec (2012 Terrain)
without taking the engine out. Can I push the pistons up after removing the oil pan? or does the lower head has to come off as well? such junk these engines--I am so fed up with it!
It is so much work taking the head off, and everything, you're best off tearing it all down, taking it to a machine shop, and getting a good plateau hone. Hack away, if you like to gamble.
Thank you for sharing, great video!
Nice mountain bike in the background!!
Winter beater 😁
@@RustBeltAuto hahahahaha😄
If I may ask why do you not unbolt the timing chain tensioner right away, you said along the lines of “ if this was a good engine you wouldn’t want to do this just yet”
It is an interference engine.
Can you tell me why this motor would lock up after some water in the engine? it turned over, but then locked up. removed plugs, but no luck.. its locked up! 😵😵
Locking up from water usually happens when you go through a really big mud puddle. A hydro locked engine will turn over when you remove spark plugs. Something else is going on.
Love your channel bro
Don't call him bro. You don't dictate what it chooses to be ya dingus
Thanks bro!
The guide failure was unfortunate because this engine would be still running. I'm sure it was rattling for quite some time and the service light should have been on indicating that the camshaft sencers were not in correlation with the crankshaft sensor. The codes would have informed the operator that they had a timing chain issue. This engine could have easily be saved. The power loss when timing is out is usually significant.
Yes, it had an intake cmp sensor code.
I purchased a Malibu with the camshaft/crankshaft correlation codes. Seller was aware of this, and I informed him of what was needed. He said "just needs a camshaft position sensor". I gave him the bad news.
Luckily he lowered the selling price $1000, which was the only way I'd buy it. I think a lot of sellers would have passed and tried to sell it to some other unsuspecting customer. I changed out chains/guides/tensioners immediately, and it has been great 30k miles and counting.
I always wonder how long engines like the one in the video were ran with the check engine light on, until complete failure.
@@Jables77 if the codes pop up and it's because the chain is stretched. They will not go far before they jump a tooth usually at the crankshaft and then the valves hit the pistons and the Motor is junk. But if it's a tensioner failure , and the chain is not badly stretched, the engine will run much farther . But both issues will cause a undeniable rattle. The tensioner failure the rattle is much worse at startup and then gets a bit better. A stretched chain the rattle will be noticed regardless if it was just started many times it's the tensioner especially if the owner was taking care of the engine oil change wise. Some guys will just change the tensioner and then start it up if the rattle is gone they don't go any farther. The early 2.4 vvt 2010 to about 2013 have poor quality tensioners Gm improved the design about 2013 .you can also buy a high performance tensioner that has been modified with a heavier spring. I don't think it's required. A money grab.
@@jimmykulik3438 mine is a 2011 Malibu with the 2.4.
I couldn’t tell what the actual problem was tensioner/chain, but I changed out all of it.
I must have caught it in the early stages. (The seller stated the light had just come on) but you know how that goes.
I couldn’t physically feel any slack in the chain but I’m sure there was since it was throwing codes.
I used GM parts. Hoping I purchased a tensioner with the improved design you mentioned. When buying the chain kit, I came across mentions of this but couldn’t confirm which parts kits had these, if any.
@@Jables77 Gm sold the improved tensioner after 2014. If you did the job after January 2014 you have the new one. If before, you can buy the new one and simply remove the old one install it .if your engine sounds decent l would just leave it. If you ever get a rattle at startup. You know the chain is good and then I would replace it the tensioner can be removed any time you don't need to take any components off the engine just remove and install. It will initially rattle when it is changed because the tensioner must release but the initial slap of the chain and the oil pressure will initiate the tensioner and it will suddenly go quiet. Done.
Fun video. I always like taking apart an engine to see how it was designed. I too save all my scrap. It usually takes a few years, but I'll have a large load and I'm always surprised at the amount of cash you'll have when you separate the metals. This was a good tear down, maybe you'll have others if there is no core return. Hope you're doing well.
It's good to look at the 5 year price chart. Right now aluminum is up. I'm cashing in. Steel is down.
@@RustBeltAuto For sure. Yeah, got rid of a LOT of aluminum about a month ago, most I've ever got for that stuff! If you have the room, it's good to hoard it, lol!
Dorman sells an upgraded timing guide bolt
Unrelated but my 2019 Camry is starting to get two rattles in the dash one driver side one passenger. I’ve been tempted to take it to the stealership. Some people has told me yes take it in and others said no it’ll cause more issues once they tear through the dash. Would you say to take it to them or will they even be able to fix it without making more problems?
I don't know. Maybe someone did dash work, and left out some screws.
@@RustBeltAuto It’s funny I always here the Toyota’s are solid but these newer ones don’t feel like it. The 8 speed is kind of clunky to from all the ones I’ve driven.
How many miles is on the motor
I cannot remember. The better question would be how often was the oil changed.
I have one with 145000. The owner changed oil when the car told her to at valvoline or some place.
What year is this engine
2010 I think.
How many times did this guy say scrap? LOL Good video.
I know you're more of a Honda fan, but do you have an opinion on the Ecotec motors? They seem to be pretty well built - I've seen other channels that have some Ecotecs with high miles and/or pretty impressive hp.
They are okay.
They are ok but I wouldn’t recommend them. I have a Chevy Malibu ECO 2013 with 108,000 same engine.
I got a 2011 Buick regal with 230,000kms but I personally wouldn't recommend. It's a good motor with maintenance but it needs enough you'd think you're in a Mercedes but your in a GM product
That voice though...Hey, heeeeres samore scraaaaaaap!
Is there a way I can contact you directly? I’ve been chasing an electrical gremlin in my 02 civic and would like some advice. It seems to be a multiplex issue with the air conditioning but I’m not sure where to start. Any help would be appreciated thanks! -Dominic
What's the problem?
@@RustBeltAuto I bought the car and the ac worked. It stopped working so I replaced the clutch still didn’t work replaced the compressor still didn’t work replaced the switch inside the cab to turn the recirculating air, the ac and the defrost still didn’t work. So did some tests on the relays and fuses and everything was getting power but some of the relays were getting power on pins that shouldn’t have power. I temporarily ran a ground wire to a switch in the cab to be able to turn the compressor on and off but I obviously need to get the issue fixed. I’ve narrowed it down to either a bad fuse box under the hood or the ecu. But I wanted a second opinion
@@DBD801 it's a simple system. A good wiring diagram, and a power probe like stuff would figure it out, if you are the right person.
@@RustBeltAuto that’s the problem, electrical has eluded me for sometime now. That’s my one weakness at work
@@DBD801 ground the pressure switch. Start there. Good luck.
can we get a compilation of every single yo you have yo'ed
I want a compilation of every "stick it in the hole" line.
Hey Rust Belt Auto. I was wondering if you would be able to help me learn a bit about rebuilds and boosting a car. I so happen to live in your area and I was wondering if I can come down sometime and meet you?
Not happening.
@@RustBeltAuto Why not?
@@RustBeltAuto I really need the help. I wanna get into stuff like this but I have no mentors or people to go to who are willing to help me learn
@@flamemikey5445 I learned everything the hard way too. The playlists I've created, and other video's I made is all I'm willing to offer. There are a lot of ways to learn in order to achieve your goals. Sometimes doing your own thing can be the most creative, and most beneficial to yourself, and others. I have paid it forward. Good luck!
@@RustBeltAuto I'll try my best. Thanks.
Belts don't chainsaw through aluminum block bosses when loose and spread tiny fragments of metal in your engine
March 2 nd I got a 1995 LS CAMARO coming in for a 350 engine rebuild those are simple Id do those everyday if I could
What is the part called that was taken took off before getting to the crank shaft? That sit on top of the oil pan ?
Could I just replace that part ?
If you are referring to the crankshaft girdle, it cannot be replaced, unless you align bore the engine.
Do you have a social media page so I can show you the issue?
@@2x_marco I do not.
Ok thanks I going to tear down my engine on 2014 Buick Verano 2.4L ecotec what was the tools you used so I can order it
@@2x_marco I have a video on a Malibu removal for this car.
I'm presently rebuilding a 5.4 in a jeep liberty I tried to get the guy to buy an engine from lkq told him it would be alot cheaper but nothing doing he had to have the engine in the Jeep rebuilt even at double the labor cost I don't care for that engine because of the three timing chains but he paid half the labor cost upfront and has a part account so all I got to do is call my order in
Most of the time the timing chain guides fail because of not changing the oil every 3-5 k miles. Machine shops and engine rebuilders and mechanics make a lot of money off people who don't change the car engine oil when they should. Pay 50$ or so instead of 5-10 k for replacing the car engine. Doesn't seem like a hard choice.
I came back to watch this again because my ma's 08 Malibu appears to have an oil leak around the seal of that timing chain cover somewhere. Not the easiest to tell for certain when the engine is still in the car, but given thats the only place where oil can come from on that side of the engine, I'd venture a guess that is where it's coming from. I question whether or not it's even worth doing. Car only has 100k on it and works and runs perfectly, leak aside.
I had a similar leak on my 2012 Malibu. Turned out it was just the inspection plate cover gasket
I've seen these engines run 40k miles with rattling chains
@@blessedman3253 old, contaminated, thermally broke down oil.
GOOD
So Múćh Alooooooomin-Numb
Sô Littlé Timé
😲😲😲😨😨😨
Yo!
Yo!
Shame on for destroying that engine 🤬
Only worse engines Kia/ Hyundai Theta, Ford 4 cylinders, most VW/Audi in the last 10 years. Ford 3 valve 5.4 but most of them are done
Yeah, these are such trash engines.
My aunt has one and i knew they had issues, but didn't research them too much. I was flabbergasted when the timing set had to be replaced at 65k miles. The car is barely 5 years old also, maintained at the dealer and she didn't procrastinate oil changes.
Then a week later she gets the car back and another common problem hit, it was -20f here in Maine and the PCV vent froze up and blew out the rear main seal. It's so bad the engine pees oil out.
So she's getting that fixed and then I find out these engines have piston ring problems too! I'll have to let her know to be careful.
It's one thing to expect some problems at high miles, but all these expensive and major issues before 100k is pretty much unheard of if most decent cars.
With a little care they aren't that bad. Makes sure the intake manifold PCV ports are clear. Vent off fresh air side to atmosphere, cap off where it attaches to intake hose. Vent off oil fill tube, or cap to vent off the excessive blow by to a catch can that vents to atmosphere.
297k miles n counting.
@@Sludge73 Bill, We have a 2013 Terrain, with the 2.4L, thought I might have a problem at 80K? I searched the internet for info? I went with a K&N Intake Kit, a Corvette vented oil cap & a Home Depot air / oil separator for a compressor, Good to Go, that was 27K ago? Volvo 09, his Aunts engine might have been saved by a vented oil fill cap, SHAME on her Dealer?? I went to my 60 year old GMC only Dealer, service manager had NO idea about the problem or the recall, DUH ??? I've been a AMSOIL Dealer for almost 20 years, the Direct Injection Engines are Hard, even on AMSOIL?? Use the Best Oil & Filter you can buy! Google any questions about your engine?? Engines & oil are the Best ever, so what's the problem?? Oh, Honey that yellow light is on again, do I need Gas, NO, you need a Brain!! LOL
Change your oil God damn
You're preaching to the choir, and the owner of the vehicle is sitting on the pew.
Good work I'm the same way I just enjoy doing stuff like that. Good to c others like me turning bolts 🔩 👌