You don’t recommend using synthetic? Also, when you mention “your gm engine”, are you only referring to the one in the video or all for that type of oil?
I had 2 different Cavaliers with the Ecotec engines. One of them had over 184k on it when I traded it, and the other had 253k on it. Both were 5 speed manual trans, and were original clutch and motors. The only thing I had to do to them beyond regular maintenance was both had their fuel pumps replaced. Both were running strong when the cars were traded, and neither used any oil. If you kept the oil changed, they were good engines. It drives me nuts when people neglect their cars, and then complain when they have problems. Doesn't matter what kind of car you have, if you neglect it, it will leave you on the side of the road!
@@speedkar99 Yeah for sure. I mean look at those cars, they're vehicles I would neglect just so I wouldn't keep having to have those things on my property for long.
Agreed but still compared to a toyota engine this GM products are pieces of junk, is sad how GM don't care about their customers only their stock holders, that's why they can't compete against toyota, honda 🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️
People who afford a lower end car are associated with being cheap and not as educated. Not hating, just explaining why these cars get so neglected. When buying any used car make sure the owner has a complete list of maintenance.
@@skylineir34 Absolutely. The Japanese, run a business, the same WAY AS THEY OPERATE FAMILIES. Greed is killing Gm, Ford, Fiat-chrysler. North American stuff, and also Kia, Nissan going down the tubes.
I put 300k on a 2006 HHR, yes I know, with no major issues. Ran great with no oil usage. However I did meticulous maintenance and used top quality synthetic oil. These are 300k engines with proper maintenance. Don't skimp on maintenance.
I have a 2007 Pontiac G6 with the 2.4L LE5, I’ve had it since 70k miles. I’m planning on doing a timing chain, and balance shaft chain job eventually. Still on the fence though because I’m risking breaking something that’s not broken yet
No shame in the HHR man, the US has a serious lack of wagons and it’s a damn good one. Everyone calls it a “PT Cruiser” but damn if I barely see any of those even in running shape these days 😂 Fukin Chrysler
Maintenance literally doesn't matter. I have kept up on maintenance 2 a T!! Even put a new engine in the POS and it's just one thing after the next with this car. Its beautiful to look at but I hate it
GM's Opel subsidiary in Germany did most if not all of the design and engineering work on the EcoTec which explains some of the odd BMW-type fastener choices. The Germans also expect you to keep up with strict maintenance schedules which explains why these don't well tolerate neglect.
@@calvinnickel9995 I have 21 year Buick Regal with a 3800 supercharged engine with 178k miles on it, unopened block. I have yet to see this guy talk about a 3800 series II/III. People have made insane horsepower on the stock block with stock internals. I'm running my supercharged with 2.77" and I will be swapping a 2.55" pulley. Next up is a rebuild of a 95 block with forged pistons and rods, stock crank and stock main caps with a turbo instead of supercharged. I bet I will easily get this into the 10's with no sweat, even with the shitty 4L60 FWD transmission. Although I spotted a Honda 3.5L v6, which is similar to the 3800, except the 3800 is an OHV engine.
@@calvinnickel9995 Ford 4.0L SOHC engines are also from Germany. They have E-torx fasteners and similar messed up timing (chains in the rear!!!). The older German OHV ones though were pretty much bulletproof. The SOHCs need very good maintenance.
@@charleslowe522 if he hasnt already he really should talk about or get a supercharged ecotec engine to look at. Especially an LSJ or the 3800. Got an ion redline myself and first thing im doing before any mods is the timing chain and all its components. Some make it to 300k no issues but a lot of these LSJ cars have timing chain issues by 100k miles. Which is why im upgrading to a better tensioner and timing chain guide bolt. Then maybe a TVS 1320 swap
@@randellgribben9772 It was literally the most powerful shitbox available through the 90s. It had 125hp when Civics couldn't crack the century. EDIT: Maybe you had an automatic. lol
I had a 2.2 cobalt ls and it had around 170k miles on it when I sold it to a friend for 500$. I think I bought it with around 20k original miles. I serviced the car according to the owners manual, and I had all recall services performed too. I remember replacing the wheel bearings and replacing the front control arms. That car still runs to this day, it has over 210k miles on it!
The intake manifold also has a tiny little hole in between runners 2 and 3. That hole is the PCV orifice. If the oil isn’t changed at a regular interval, it will clog. This accelerates the oil consumption past the rings since the crankcase can’t breathe. This particular engine looks like it’s missed a few oil changes. The Champion plugs say a lot.
@@josephvanwanzeele5125 looks like the owner went with the traditional self-changing oil, which is maintained with the occasional consumable spark plug.
Your brother's toothbrush, underwear and old pants, a true source of inspiration for many of us : ) You've got great content bro. always a delight to watch !
Thanks, great video because I like the GM Ecotec, and it's good to see one disassembled. I've got a Malibu 2.4L with 185k and a Cobalt 2.2L with 105k. It's a great little engine, and I have had no problems with either one, and they're easy to work on. The parts are super cheap to buy from Rock for maintenance. Case in point a Subaru I own needs an O2 sensor front and it cost $145. the Malibu needs one too and it's $34. FYI, just drove the Malibu 2,876 miles from Columbus, Ohio to the USMC base in Twentynine Palms, Ca. and it lost zero engine oil.
GM absolutely blows away Subaru when it comes to engine reliability. A blown head gasket on a Subaru is a rite of passage. On a GM it’s 20 years and 200,000 miles after it left the factory... and it’s “not worth it” to fix.
Holy moly, talk about a plethora of information. I don’t even own this exact engine but damn this is good content. I have hundreds of questions but I’ll wait until I have one that’s relevant to life.lol. Thanks for the uploads!
I repaired Ecotec in next door neighbors' '05 Malibu at 60K miles... it was knocking... when I took it apart there was -0- oil and -0- coolant in it! They were a young couple who apparently didn't know you have to check those levels!
A very nice tour! Much appreciated. My daily driver is a 2004 Cavalier. I have no issues with it because I keep the oil always fresh. Nice thing about keeping it working is I don't have to learn the details. But, nice to know about the oil pump being in the timing chain cover and the internal balance shafts. Never bothered to investigate those little details before. Here's a nice data point concerning the oil rings on the pistons. My particular example does not burn oil even with 130k on the clock. Like I said, I look after its maintenance religiously. Vacuum oil extractors are the complete bomb! Anywho, I often drive this car cross country to Las Vegas, Nevada to visit relatives. Going over Vail Pass in Colorado will burn a quart of oil in 300 miles. Of course, asking the little car to boogie up those mountains puts quite a strain on her power plant.
Ive owned 3 different 2.2 i4s, one in a Cavalier and 2 Cobalts. Never had any engine or trans problems with any of them. The last Cobalt had around 240,000 miles on it. They all got 33 mpg and never used oil. Great cars and i always used my OWN oil and filters and changed it myself buying quality stuff from big box stores.
I think it’s because they’re playing with those new low tension piston rings. Honda’s VTEC Turbo 1.5 has been dumping gas into it’s gas. Unfortunately for my mom’s crv, this is “Normal” for these engines.
Though probably true, I see many more of these GM vehicles on the side of the road broken down, or for sale for super cheap, needing a new engine. A guy down the street from me has the Saturn version of the Traverse as a lawn ordament. Needs an engine.
@@midwestfarm757 GMs sell for cheaper, so are worth less money, thus making many of them "not worth it" to have fixed at a shop. Same for all domestics, really.
The owners tend to follow the extended oil change interval and many skip oil changes. I think the motors are fine when you change the oil before 5,000 miles. The rings begin to stick then they can't seal and burn excessive oil.
I have one of these as a 2 liter in my SAAB, that part at the end with the baffles in the valve cover finally made me understand why I keep finding a thin mist of oil on the inside of the turbo intake pipe, after the air filter. I also realized watching this that there's no actual gasket on the valve cover. Mine's a late '02 / early '03, so it's coming up on almost 20 years and 140k miles, and I think that gooey stuff they used to seal it is starting to give up the ghost. The intake side is fine, but the exhaust one has the turbo mounted almost at the level of the valve cover and it's started to weep a bit of oil through there. The worst part is, it literally cooks off the engine and the ventilation system just picks up the fumes and channels them into the car. It's not something you notice on long trips, but in town when you just sit at a traffic light, it has enough time to build up a small cloud and as you set off you get a waft of burnt oil.... Also, ever since I bought it, the water pump will randomly leak. Sometimes you go for weeks with no change, then one night half of the expansion bowl is gone. It's supposed to be a modern engine but I still always keep a bottle each of coolant, oil and hydraulic fluid in the trunk like the good ol' days.
It still surprises me that the inherent disadvantages of Direct Injection are never highlighted to customers. Thanks for pointing it out. Anyone who is annoyed by this, just get a port-injected car, of if it has to be a new one, Toyota has D-4S that uses both technologies. Make sure it has D-4S though, not all of them do.
Since this seems to be a common thing on RUclips and other sites, I decided to look it up. Galley: 1) a ship or boat propelled solely or chiefly by oars; 2) the kitchen and cooking apparatus especially of a ship or airplane. Gallery: a long and narrow passage, apartment, or corridor. The passages in an engine through which oil flows are *galleries*.
Good catch. I correct folks grammar when the apostrophize plural words. I never look back at my comments to see how angry and butt-hurt they are.. Nice work!
I don't think the failed con rod was because of the lack of pressure in the tensioner. A skipped cam tooth would have shown damage/marks to all pistons and intake valves. I believe the lack of oil to the con rod bearing was the culprit. Signs of failure are present in one of the other journals also.
Yup, and long periods between oil changes will clog oil ports. C’mon people!! Oil changes are not that difficult to remember. And you can’t use the “it’s too expensive to get my oil changed” BS as an excuse. That’s why God created Jiffy Lube. 😝
I had a Sunfire with the old style tensioner ,it just fell apart, dropping prices into the timing cover, I was able to recover them, but around 90k I started seeing metal in the oil, also this engine required oil changes every 3k, you could tell the oil was breaking down because the car would run bad, and yes it did burn oil faster then it should.
Good video description of this engine. I have a 2.2 Ecotec in a 2008 Pontiac G5, 219,000 miles right now. They are good engines, they can last a long, long time. Timing chain tensioners are a potential problem, mainly in neglected engines. However, it is not unheard of timing chain failures in low mileage, well maintained engines. If maintained properly, these engines typically don’t burn any oil. Lots of German engineering, I hope I don’t have to change the water pump for a very long time. Unfortunately, these engines were installed in a lot of low budget vehicles and owners don’t maintain them properly.
Great description of the Ecotec! I've been running pre-05 L61 ecotecs in my endurance racing Sunfire. Ive had 2 engines break connecting rods as well as bought the original car 7yrs old with a broken rod. With No warning. If this was timing chain failure, you would see valve to piston contact on at least 1 other cylinder. Connecting rods are the weak link and were upgraded by 08 engines. My broken engines were still in correct timing. I think worn connecting rod bearings make lateral drag on rods and they snap. Now I run an oil cooler and level zero balance shaft delete kit. (-9 lbs, Fewer demands on oil supply & more power).
If you've ever driven an inline 4 engine that doesn't have balance shafts you'll understand their purpose. 4 bangers are some of the roughest engines out there.
I have the 04 2.2 ecotec Cavalier. Had it since new. No burning oil, no ticking, no leaking, she's been good. I keep up regular maintenance on her. She's my secondary car, just use to go to and from work, since it's so good on ⛽. So far so good. *knock on wood*
Regardless of what engine you use, check your fluid levels (especially oil) at every fill up! One thing that I don’t think was mentioned in the video is that the newer ecotecs have smaller oil capacity like 3.9-4.2 qts so any oil burned is even more obvious as the level drops faster. It’s best to change oil early and often but even if you don’t, dirty oil is better than no oil at all.
@@vishalakula8451 Yeah the 1.5 and its 1.4 sibling (not to be confused with the iron block 1.4) love to self destruct pistons, specifically the ring lands.
2003 chevy cavalier 2.2L manual 5 speed is my daily driver. After a trip to the junk yard recently...4/6 cavaliers they had were over 400k miles. Bought mine in FL at 117k miles. Took off the valve cover to find nothing but sludge. Replaced the timing chain and its still going at 180k. I tow a trailer and fishing boat with this car regularly. Maintenance has been kept up to date since ive owned it. Went across the front bumper of a tractor trailer on the expressway and am still driving it. This car is bulletproof....inspectors were complimenting it at my last inspection.
"Never mind the duct tape. That's actually the main oil galley so it's just going to pour oil out. Could of got away with duct tape on this side though." Too funny!
I'm amazed at all the people that ran these engines to over 100k miles without issue. I believe in changing oil sooner than the recommended intervals and it has always paid off. Oil still carries particulates and wears faster the older it gets. Anyway, thanks for this informative video!
@@BuzzLOLOL they were ok. So was the V-6 179, 231. The problems started when they started making efficient engines in the 70's. The 2.3L in the Vega with the aluminum head. The 2.5L LE2 series put in the GM X cars. The Iron Duke engine was a return to their proven roots using 50's tech to try and rebuild their reputation. GM makes great larger engines. The 3.8L was bullet proof, the LS and LT series are fantastic. Its when they try to blend "new tech" and "cheap" into the same engine that they flop.
That chain/guides was prolly excessively stretched by high miles as the hydraulic adjusters have one way locks that prevent them from collapsing after compensating for wear...
Thank you for you showing me how my 2.0 works.... We have a 2018 Camaro RS (Yellow) with the 2.0 and a manual transmission... I change my oil every 4 to5,000 miles (oil filter also) it has 33,000 miles on it. I have installed a cetch can (oil). I want to make our 2.0 engine last. I keep my RPM's above 2,000. so not to lug my engine..... I don't down shift, brakes are cheaper than a transmission . Living in Northern Nevada we have a lot of mountains... so I cost as much a posable, We drive 30 miles to town. We get 30 MPG to 37. (was our best). I use 5th gear most of the time and 6th gear as a overdrive. Plus when I see a red stop light far up there i'll cost up to it. I'll put a 1/2 quart of transmission fluid in the engine and run it for 100 miles to clean the engine, then change the oil and oil filet. I have been running the highest fuel I can get. Is that really pessary ? Do you recommend any fuel treatment to clean my engine. ? I'm 79 years young and We really enjoy our Yellow Camaro RS. Oh yes I have installed a spare tire. Thank You so much....
Awesome as usual man. I asked I’m another video, but any chance you could do a Northstar? I think it would be great for the kind of videos you do. Probably a lot of them in junk yards lol
I`m just impressed by how you can take engines apart and know exactly what`s going on lol. I`m too afraid to even do basic stuff like oil changes by myself lmao
1.4 turbo LE2 in a 2018 Chevy Cruze, 0w-20 full synthetic (Mobil 1) with Mobil 1 filter every 3500-4000 miles. 75000 so far with zero issues. The only caveat is to make sure you seat the engine air filter correctly. Had me chasing down a P0172 code for weeks. The cabin air filter is a real chore, but other than that it's been super reliable.
Great video, I just recently replaced one of these motors on a customer’s vehicle and it appeared to fail in this way. It was cool to see a more in depth tear down.
I want to start this off by saying this is mostly additional info for people. I find he did a great job making an unbiased video about this engine. "While I can't speak for all of them the 2.0-2.4l ecotecs from 2004-2013ish (the 2002-2003 had an issue that if you baby it, the cam chain squirter wouldn't lubricate properly but that was found out and fixed within 2 years and was a $20 part that could be replaced in an hour with the engine in the car.) had almost no failures that weren't maintenance related or low % unlucky QC and had no recalls whatsoever. Also considering it was made as an economy engine with no intent to make it a performance one (the 2.0 is their realization that it could and is only a destroked L61 with piston squirters installed from the factory) the power you can get out of it safely per step up is crazy. This engine starts at 140HP and 130 torque from factory and the GM build guide states stock it's good up to 250HP, after that it's pistons and rods then it's good to 500HP, then a billet crank till 750HP, then they recommend better cylinder liners and a different oil pick up and that's good up to 1000HP and after that I think performance GM made a copy of that block out of higher quality aluminum and a better casting procedure that safely makes 1400HP."
Also might as well put this here since this will likely lead Ecotec people here. If you're interested I'm going to be supercharging my 2005 Cavalier and this is the build list. Mostly full rebuild of the trans (steel plates, bands, seals, washers, new/upgraded electronics, :OPT 4T40 kit with almost all the extras:, LSD kit) full engine rebuild kit, new valves(oem), forged rods, forged pistons, stage 2 cams, neutral balance shafts, rebuilt M62, SS intake, (ZZP super kit, 82 springs, #60 injectors, new rollers, updated lash adjusters), complete front suspension replacement, all new coilovers (KYB strut plus) and will be painting the engine bay, and everything attached to the engine more or less. Am expecting 250ish wheel HP.
I've had ecotecs go well over 380k before the bodys of the vehicles went. These engines are just as reliable as the gutless Toyota Corolla engines when properly maintained.
Not the engines being made now! One of my friends is a service tech at a GM dealership and I know they replaced 3 Chevy Trail Blazer engines under warranty and had service records at the dealer. He told me as a friend to NOT buy any GM product right now. These were 2022 engines. There have been so many engine failures there is a long wait list for new engines because there are none to replace them with. These owners have to wait for an engine. The parts shortage has made it even worse.GM engines were pretty good until about 2005 then they went to crap ever since. I will continue to buy Toyotas and your comment is a real joke trying to compare these junk GM designed engines to Toyotas. Here is a video he made to educate Toyota haters ruclips.net/video/l6WXqdaiuKo/видео.html
The ecotec engine is a descendant of the Saab 99 slant four engine, the 99 was a descendant of the triumph slant four used in the TR7. It was reliable when it didn’t produce as much power. My TR7 has the original British Leyland 2.0L slant four with 66,000 miles on it. It’s 45 years old and was sitting for 10 of those years. She runs like a top and all that I have done is be on time with oil changes and replacing the timing chain and tensioner once
I have the same engine on my base model 2004 Saturn Vue. (With 5 speed manual trans) still going strong with 286k miles. It just burns a little oil. (About half a quart of oil every 2500 miles) not bad. Just keep up with oil and fluid maintenance and it will continue going strong.
I have a 2.2 ecotech with 180k i suspect that it will start burning oil soon do you all recommend just topping it off till an oil change or taking all the oil out and filling it every time it gets low?
At the dealership we call these money makers especially the 2.4L Direct Injected variant. Oil consumption issues (piston rings), timing chain failures, cam phaser failure, cam phaser solenoids galore, blown rear main seals and so-on. and maybe once in a while a high pressure fuel pump dumps fuel in the oil. I'm always amazed how many of these roll in rattling like a diesel while 1qt of oil circulates in the pan.
I thought some of the older 2.2 ecotecs were reliable? So basically when you slip up on oil changes combined with high mileage the timing goes and it'ss good by engine?
Great tear down. I never understood why so many engines are made as interference engines when others are not. If one can make noninterference, then why not all. This would save so many engines.
Nice video man, i got one of the newer 1.4 ecotec engines. I check fluids religiously, so far so good. The main issue with the 1.4 are the pcv system and coolant leaks.
@@kclefthanded427 not head gasket. It has issues with overflow tank cracking and a bunch of plasticky bits that are bolted on the engine could cause it. water pump could have a leak as well and that's covered with extended warranty. to my knowledge head gaskets are not a common issue on these
@@amirmograbi yup I'm under the hood every week checking my fluids but I'd do that to any car id own anyways. I don't understand all the hate the cruzes get
I have a 2016 Chevy Equinox with just over 38000 miles on the OD. So far, it's doing pretty good. There's no oil consumption issue happening and I want to keep it that way. I believe that just about any engine can be reliable with regular maintenance. I keep up on maintenance like changing the oil as needed every 5000 miles and I use premium oil for extra protection. A lot of people don't maintain their engines properly and complain when they break down. I'm hoping I can avoid catastrophic failure of my engine by changing my oil when needed. I'm not going to lie. That's one of the things I fear the most as a vehicle owner.
150k on my 2.2 daily and running strong. Doesn't show even oil residue. Always used high mileage and a quart of Lucas after 70k. Did have to tap the top tensioner bolt generously to free it up and relieve the cold start chain noise. It's a dreadful noise for 3 seconds or so. If you maintain these engines they are about bulletproof. Also did all the other basics like brake system flush, coolant flush, trans flush @70k and recently did a trans pan drop and filter replacement.
@@Graham_Langley Take a look. This is where it gets confusing. www.google.com/search?q=oil+galley+cleaning&client=firefox-b-1-d&sxsrf=ALeKk00Ofk9ueKRYLbzzcP5ou-liGE2aRQ:1620772535413&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjfifCZ2MLwAhXBup4KHaF5BScQ_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1536&bih=717&dpr=1.25
Two of the things I repurpose all the time in my house, old toothbrushes and old t-shirts. My t-shirts are 100% cotton and make great rags for cleaning up and working on cars.
I have this exact engine in my 09 Pontiac g6. 220k miles original engine and transmission. Transmission fluid has been changed regularly and I change my engine oil every 5000 miles religiously. She does not burn a drop of oil. Great engines if you maintain them
This engine family hasn't been made since the 2017 model year. They reused the name on several newer engine families but these ones went away when the 2018 Equinox and Terrain came out. When you were showing the connecting rods those didn't have any bearings in them. The surface you were looking at was the connecting rod itself. Also the broken connecting rod happened first and likely due to a bearing failure from very low oil level. The damage to the piston and valve contact happened from it hitting the cylinder head due to the fact it was no longer attached to the crankshaft. In my experience it would have to have been several litres down. I've worked on many of the newer 2.4s and they drink oil badly. I've seen several stalling out due to only having around 1.6l of oil left in the crankcase (4.7l is full). Even the ones run that low on oil I've hardly ever seen spun bearings. It will stretch the timing chain and cause broken guides almost for sure though. I wonder if this one died of a loose drain plug from a Jiffy Lube oil change.
My daily is a salvaged 2005 ion 3 quad coupe that I bought for 400 bucks with a bad clutch. Swapped clutch and many suspension components in my storage shed over the summer. Timing tensioner failed on me about a month ago and my ignorance allowed me to just change it and when i went to crank the main chain guide broke making horrible sounds. I shut it off in time and replaced all chain guide and sprocket components using the updated oem replacements. dropped oil pan to retrieve plastics guide pieces and carefully cleaned all passages. new gaskets the works. upon start up the cold start timing chain noise/knocking sound was even louder now but soon as you apply throttle it goes away. had an injector and fuel line go due to rusty lines. This all happened at 190.000 and I just went to change my oil the other day as it has bad blow by (always has since i owned it) and stuck to my drain plugs magnet was pieces of what looks like a very thick piston ring.. pop oil cap running and it definitely is blowing air out with nasty sludge on cap. sucks i did all this work and idk if i should replace the rings or try to find a jy engine with lower miles? any advice? i have brand new tires and everything on this car I'm🤕🥺 in it for about triple its 1175 value if i find a good engine for around 500 total.. i have all the tools and feel confident i can swap it or rebuild.i did the sub frame and transmission drop all by my lonely with some bungees and ratchet straps rigged with hoist to assist in removal and reinstallation (lots of cussing but for my first i am proud) car drives well weak on power my mpg sucks and it smokes after revving 2k or more. i just got it on the road and its body is with minimal rust compared to my very unsafe 05 monte carlo lt... that thing should be folding in on itself any minute now
I had this 2.4L in my 2003 grand am. It's a shame i had to get rid of the car. Rear main seal was leaking making a mess and was quoted a big price to repair. I really liked the otherwise reliable engine and economy it provided to operate and travel frequently. It rivaled Hondas of the same era for fuel economy.
water pump is connected to the timing chain, so if it leaks, and you pull it out, you will cause the timing to jump and destroy the engine. Unless you have a tool or something to keep the place of the water pump during the removal. If this is correct, this would be like a $1000 job to change the water pump, labor and parts?
There is a tool to hold the water pump sprocket in place via the small window in the timing cover. I'm not sure on price but its probably near or just under that.
@@lowlifeangler most mechanics want a grand to do the job, see below. There is no way I would attempt this where the worst possible outcome is the destruction of the engine. This is poor design fraught with unnecessary risk.
for some reason it wont let me post a link to the car wizard video on changing water pump on chevy equinox in which he says you might as well have a BMW if you want to change the water pump on an 2.4l equinox.
This is an awesome video. Thank you so much for uploading, this is exactly what I needed. Thanks for being clear spoken and explaining in detail everything I was seeing on screen. Please keep it up, need more!
The ecotec is usually decent if the maintenance schedule is followed STRICTLY. They won’t burn oil unless they are neglected. And they usually are, but because they’re German designed engines they can’t handle neglect.
When Toyota engines fail, speedkar would blame it on the owner for not maintaining it. When an Ecotec fails, speedkar blames GM. I guess it's GM's fault when someone goes 10k+ miles between oil changes or never checks their oil level.
Mine started burning oil around 50k miles....and I changed the oil every 3000 miles. The internal PCV system was the original fault. That said....the motor survived 425k miles of me beating the living shit out of it and is probably still being driven by it's second owner.
My car has the Ecotec 2.2 and it is burning oil, the valve stem seals are worn and I was considering replacing them but you have convinced me not to bother, I really think the engine is too far gone and the work involved plus cost is not worth it in my opinion. Interestingly my car has an oil level sensor that alerts me when the oil level gets down by about half a litre. I should say even thought my car has fairly high mileage it runs well and I think the problems with the engine might trace back to a stuck thermostat that severely restricted coolant flow but at the same time the temperature gauge was reading normal temps. Perhaps if I had caught that problem early it might not be burning so much oil.
I think that observation was off Target myself. I personally don't buy Chevrolet products or General motors products I just don't like the way they're engineered. That's my opinion I don't think someone that buys them is dumber or smarter than me they just have a different opinion. But maintenance failures is not a financial concern as much it is individual responsibility. I remember we have a multi-million dollar Governor here in Florida who ended up in the Senate by the name of Bob Graham. He personally led the crusade to get rid of auto inspections for safety and emissions. Well just before the inspections law ran out, he took his motorhome in for an inspection. He had burnout lights a hole in his exhaust and his brakes were pulling. These are all things that fail a vehicle for an inspection. Keep in mind he was a multimillionaire. So money doesn't necessarily mean people maintain their vehicles. I bet his tires were old on that vehicle too if he had a hole in the exhaust.
@@JohnRodriguesPhotographer for sure! It doesn't take much to keep a car well maintained. Just basic maintenance, catching things before they get too far gone makes a big difference. My cobalt certainly wasn't my first pick, but it's lasted 128k miles with out much repair needed other than basic maintenance and upkeep
@@cmdr_scotty Never had one myself, but I have 2 friends with cars that have Ecotec 2.2s. One is a 2009 Cobalt that has been in my friend's care for 5+ years now. He maintains it properly and did a minor overhaul on the transmission and cooling system a few months ago, in addition to replacing the valve cover gasket and deep cleaning the inside to remove all carbon deposits. It is on it's 2nd transmission, but the previous owner didn't maintain it. Aside from that, the only failure was from a radiator hose shifting and hitting the fan or something. Easy to fix. The other is a 2002 Saturn L200 with the same engine and trans that the owner has had for about 1 year. This one was in much better shape upon purchase and he abides by very strict maintenance schedules at my behest (I'm the one who services it. My other friend is a mechanic as well, but this friend has very little experience there). Even with that, it costs him very little to run (and the car itself was only $1300) and it'll run reliably for a long time to come.
fun fact, the 1.6l ecotech found in 2009 chevy aveos can survive slipping exactly 1 tooth on their timing belts, (the valves kissed the carbon on the piston head, but didnt impact) source: i drove mine home from my workplace about 30 miles home, then spend about 8 hours gaining access and re-aligning the timing. It has begun to leak oil at a prodigious rate, 12 years and 180,000 miles, replacing the oil cooler/filter housing helped quite a bit, but its still dripping. also beware the stripping of threads with your steel oil drainplug and aluminum pan.
12:02 how do you learn all these facts like "this chain tensioner is controversial" for so many different makes and models? Do you research a lot for each engine?
Funny that I can pull tons of early 2000s Saturn's and Cavaliers with 200,000 mile plus on with this very engine and have had 2 cars with that very engine get 200 plus... this engine gets a bad rap cause any engine gonna fail when u never change the oil!!!
Have this exact engine, 09 Chevrolet Cobalt LT, hand me down, 136000 miles. Carfax says 14 owners since 2009, and a number of accidents. Fully restored it with junkyard and Duralast parts, except the inside of the motor. Hell, even changed the transmission fluid(4T45E Auto Transaxle) at 124000. Car runs really well for its’ age, upped the oil to 10w-30 at 127000(live in Arizona), to try and help get thicker oil in smaller tolerances of mechanical wear. Started changing the oil every 2000 miles for about 6 months. Aside from using quality spark plugs, changing the oil every 3-4000 miles, and changing the engine mounts, is there anything I can do, besides getting rid of the Cobalt, that can try to make it last longer?
He angry at that motor.. i remember my first broken piston i chucked as hard as i could across the yard.. found it with my mower which ironically caused that 1400$ mower to become junk when it bent the crank and caused a piston rod to break... it feels real good to relieve some tension on inanimate objects but inanimate objects like to bite back.. just like no matter how pissed you get or how careful you are, when you drop a bolt its still going to somehow end up a hundred miles away from where you saw it hit the ground, right in some shit you said youd clean up later.. like how everytime you suddenly think "i need to go put on some safety glasses" you just fucking then get something in your eye.. or why a fart can linger for 20 minutes under a car even when the wind is blowing.. like as soon as you think "im about to bust my knuckles or elbow open" you dont even finish the thought before shit slips or breaks and you cant feel half your arm for a half hour.. Ill tell ya what does relieve stress though.. when a buddies helping you check for spark and you hit the ignition before they let go of the plug.. gets a smile on my face everytime..
Great video! Just wanted to correct one quick thing: you cant actually use duct tape on those inspection ports. I know its listed as manufacturer spec for these GM engines but we've done it a few times at my shop and they eventually leak oil again... However you can use flex tape. Just slap some of that stuff on there and problem solved! Hope this helps
@@chrisomalley7536 Well as I stated above, I changed out the chain at about 250, still going now with 267k I would have done the same as you but I bought the car when it had about 237k I would be nervous too at 161k The chain and shoes were in great condition and were original, I did it for peace of mind. If these engines had regular oil changes, I'd feel safe running on up to close to 200k My Ecotec must of needed the timing chain kit because the motor is so damn quiet now at a light I think it shut off, scares me for a second until I look at the teach, ya can't hear it run, ya can't feel it run. Stay safe out there!
@@chrisomalley7536 One other thing I meant tach , not teach (spell check) the oil spray nozzle which oils the chain could get clogged and starve the chain for oil. It just so happened, my Cav. Was well maintained by the previous owner, but you just don't know sometimes.
Make sure you keep your GM engine well maintained with parts purchased from here:
Oil Filter:
amzn.to/3aDA60g (US)
amzn.to/3vdhOKU (Canada)
Oil Filter Socket:
amzn.to/2Qmr8O5 (US)
amzn.to/2QwRixp (Canada)
Engine Oil:
amzn.to/3gE0Lxy (US)
amzn.to/3veSFQf (Canada)
3/8” Socket set:
amzn.to/3tRBUKF (US)
amzn.to/3vjz1T2 (Canada)
Oil drain pan:
amzn.to/3xqpqeY (US)
amzn.to/3niZ5uV (Canada)
You don’t recommend using synthetic? Also, when you mention “your gm engine”, are you only referring to the one in the video or all for that type of oil?
oil control rings - fascinating. thanks
wanna do the 4.2 L Vortec? thanks
I stopped buying gm year’s ago
And use a brush to make it more professional.
I had 2 different Cavaliers with the Ecotec engines. One of them had over 184k on it when I traded it, and the other had 253k on it. Both were 5 speed manual trans, and were original clutch and motors. The only thing I had to do to them beyond regular maintenance was both had their fuel pumps replaced. Both were running strong when the cars were traded, and neither used any oil. If you kept the oil changed, they were good engines. It drives me nuts when people neglect their cars, and then complain when they have problems. Doesn't matter what kind of car you have, if you neglect it, it will leave you on the side of the road!
Well the reality is cavalier and cobalt are cars that attract buyers who will evidently neglect them.
@@speedkar99 Yeah for sure. I mean look at those cars, they're vehicles I would neglect just so I wouldn't keep having to have those things on my property for long.
Agreed but still compared to a toyota engine this GM products are pieces of junk, is sad how GM don't care about their customers only their stock holders, that's why they can't compete against toyota, honda 🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️
People who afford a lower end car are associated with being cheap and not as educated. Not hating, just explaining why these cars get so neglected. When buying any used car make sure the owner has a complete list of maintenance.
@@skylineir34 Absolutely. The Japanese, run a business, the same WAY AS THEY OPERATE FAMILIES. Greed is killing Gm, Ford, Fiat-chrysler. North American stuff, and also Kia, Nissan going down the tubes.
"overstressed and cannot do it's job" - that hit me bro.
I put 300k on a 2006 HHR, yes I know, with no major issues. Ran great with no oil usage. However I did meticulous maintenance and used top quality synthetic oil. These are 300k engines with proper maintenance. Don't skimp on maintenance.
I'm driving a 2007 HHR LS with the 2.2L engine, 87k miles. Very reliable car about 4 years now. Suprizingly smooth revs for a 4 cyl.
I have a 2007 Pontiac G6 with the 2.4L LE5, I’ve had it since 70k miles. I’m planning on doing a timing chain, and balance shaft chain job eventually. Still on the fence though because I’m risking breaking something that’s not broken yet
No shame in the HHR man, the US has a serious lack of wagons and it’s a damn good one. Everyone calls it a “PT Cruiser” but damn if I barely see any of those even in running shape these days 😂 Fukin Chrysler
I'm hoping so I got the 2.4 in my 2010 Malibu with 183K miles no issues yet(knock on wood)
Maintenance literally doesn't matter. I have kept up on maintenance 2 a T!! Even put a new engine in the POS and it's just one thing after the next with this car. Its beautiful to look at but I hate it
GM's Opel subsidiary in Germany did most if not all of the design and engineering work on the EcoTec which explains some of the odd BMW-type fastener choices. The Germans also expect you to keep up with strict maintenance schedules which explains why these don't well tolerate neglect.
Yep.
Meanwhile the 60 degree V6 and even some Iron Dukes are still plugging away 20-30 years later.
@@calvinnickel9995 I have 21 year Buick Regal with a 3800 supercharged engine with 178k miles on it, unopened block. I have yet to see this guy talk about a 3800 series II/III. People have made insane horsepower on the stock block with stock internals. I'm running my supercharged with 2.77" and I will be swapping a 2.55" pulley. Next up is a rebuild of a 95 block with forged pistons and rods, stock crank and stock main caps with a turbo instead of supercharged. I bet I will easily get this into the 10's with no sweat, even with the shitty 4L60 FWD transmission. Although I spotted a Honda 3.5L v6, which is similar to the 3800, except the 3800 is an OHV engine.
@@calvinnickel9995 Ford 4.0L SOHC engines are also from Germany. They have E-torx fasteners and similar messed up timing (chains in the rear!!!). The older German OHV ones though were pretty much bulletproof. The SOHCs need very good maintenance.
@@charleslowe522 if he hasnt already he really should talk about or get a supercharged ecotec engine to look at. Especially an LSJ or the 3800.
Got an ion redline myself and first thing im doing before any mods is the timing chain and all its components. Some make it to 300k no issues but a lot of these LSJ cars have timing chain issues by 100k miles. Which is why im upgrading to a better tensioner and timing chain guide bolt. Then maybe a TVS 1320 swap
Saab
"This one is a naturally aspirated version"
Well, judging by that hole it is now.
Not only that, but the "crankcase ventilation" will be MUCH improved!
🤣🤣🤣
As someone who mostly has ever worked on Japanese cars, its nuts to see so many different types of fasteners being used on that thing
It’s amazing right. Almost like it’s German, oh wait the thing is designed by opel.
@@ryanthompson2893 I happen to own the design predecessor, the X22SE.
@@der_pinguin44 poor you
As someone who works and owns japanese cars ... I can clearly say Japanese is top class over built in quality..
@@jesusyeshuaelelyonelshadai6295 not really, it's a great engine. 305,000 miles and it still runs great.
Narrator: "I'm going to turn the engine over so we can access the bottom"
Engine: "Here's some marbles."
i had 2.2L in the last gen cavalier. shit was bullet proof with 5 speed manual
Me too. I ran it hard all the time.
and no power
@@randellgribben9772 It was literally the most powerful shitbox available through the 90s. It had 125hp when Civics couldn't crack the century.
EDIT: Maybe you had an automatic. lol
@@fun_ghoul i was driving a 84 Alfa Romeo spider,and a Altima at the time(edit for spelling )
@@fun_ghoul fair comparison... the gm engine is 2.2 liters at the time.. the civic was 1.5 liters..apples and apples, mate
I had a 2.2 cobalt ls and it had around 170k miles on it when I sold it to a friend for 500$. I think I bought it with around 20k original miles. I serviced the car according to the owners manual, and I had all recall services performed too.
I remember replacing the wheel bearings and replacing the front control arms.
That car still runs to this day, it has over 210k miles on it!
The intake manifold also has a tiny little hole in between runners 2 and 3. That hole is the PCV orifice. If the oil isn’t changed at a regular interval, it will clog. This accelerates the oil consumption past the rings since the crankcase can’t breathe. This particular engine looks like it’s missed a few oil changes. The Champion plugs say a lot.
owners fault the engine failed
The stuck-on oil residue inside of everywhere. The caked and compressed oil filter. Has the oil ever been replaced or just topped off?
@@josephvanwanzeele5125 looks like the owner went with the traditional self-changing oil, which is maintained with the occasional consumable spark plug.
Your brother must be very tolerant, with you using his toothbrush and pants the way you were.
Next video, use your brother's new toothbrush and pants ;D
And “absorbent bedsheets “.
Love those inspection window mods 😂
Hope you´ve got enough duct tape xDDD
@@pavelslama5543 Duct tape? How unprofessional. Everyone knows you use JB Weld! 😄
i died laughing!!! "There's your problem, Lady!"
Was going to say the same! Haha
that is a "G.M." exclusive !!!!.
Your brother's toothbrush, underwear and old pants, a true source of inspiration for many of us : )
You've got great content bro. always a delight to watch !
Thanks, great video because I like the GM Ecotec, and it's good to see one disassembled. I've got a Malibu 2.4L with 185k and a Cobalt 2.2L with 105k. It's a great little engine, and I have had no problems with either one, and they're easy to work on. The parts are super cheap to buy from Rock for maintenance. Case in point a Subaru I own needs an O2 sensor front and it cost $145. the Malibu needs one too and it's $34. FYI, just drove the Malibu 2,876 miles from Columbus, Ohio to the USMC base in Twentynine Palms, Ca. and it lost zero engine oil.
29 Palms
@@fun_ghoul I work here:
Building 1428, 4th St, Twentynine Palms, CA 92278
GM absolutely blows away Subaru when it comes to engine reliability.
A blown head gasket on a Subaru is a rite of passage.
On a GM it’s 20 years and 200,000 miles after it left the factory... and it’s “not worth it” to fix.
@@calvinnickel9995 yeh for sure, and a head gasket and head work is no joke to your wallet with a Subaru compared to an Ecotec.
@@calvinnickel9995 Subaru has apparently fixed their head gasket problems.
Holy moly, talk about a plethora of information. I don’t even own this exact engine but damn this is good content. I have hundreds of questions but I’ll wait until I have one that’s relevant to life.lol. Thanks for the uploads!
I repaired Ecotec in next door neighbors' '05 Malibu at 60K miles... it was knocking... when I took it apart there was -0- oil and -0- coolant in it! They were a young couple who apparently didn't know you have to check those levels!
@@BuzzLOLOL well, you don't have to check them. At least one doesn't, if they don't mind becoming pedestrians.
I should be sleeping by now but your videos are addictive. As you keep taking things apart, I can’t stop watching.
Glad you enjoy them
A very nice tour! Much appreciated. My daily driver is a 2004 Cavalier. I have no issues with it because I keep the oil always fresh. Nice thing about keeping it working is I don't have to learn the details. But, nice to know about the oil pump being in the timing chain cover and the internal balance shafts. Never bothered to investigate those little details before.
Here's a nice data point concerning the oil rings on the pistons. My particular example does not burn oil even with 130k on the clock. Like I said, I look after its maintenance religiously. Vacuum oil extractors are the complete bomb!
Anywho, I often drive this car cross country to Las Vegas, Nevada to visit relatives. Going over Vail Pass in Colorado will burn a quart of oil in 300 miles. Of course, asking the little car to boogie up those mountains puts quite a strain on her power plant.
Ive owned 3 different 2.2 i4s, one in a Cavalier and 2 Cobalts. Never had any engine or trans problems with any of them. The last Cobalt had around 240,000 miles on it. They all got 33 mpg and never used oil. Great cars and i always used my OWN oil and filters and changed it myself buying quality stuff from big box stores.
😮Addendum: I sold it 2 years ago; the lady is still driving it.
Toyota got the exact same burning oil problem with 2AZ-FE in many models including the Camry, RAV4, Corolla, Highlander, Scion XB / TC.
I think it’s because they’re playing with those new low tension piston rings. Honda’s VTEC Turbo 1.5 has been dumping gas into it’s gas. Unfortunately for my mom’s crv, this is “Normal” for these engines.
Though probably true, I see many more of these GM vehicles on the side of the road broken down, or for sale for super cheap, needing a new engine. A guy down the street from me has the Saturn version of the Traverse as a lawn ordament. Needs an engine.
@@midwestfarm757 GMs sell for cheaper, so are worth less money, thus making many of them "not worth it" to have fixed at a shop. Same for all domestics, really.
@@midwestfarm757 TRUE!
The owners tend to follow the extended oil change interval and many skip oil changes. I think the motors are fine when you change the oil before 5,000 miles. The rings begin to stick then they can't seal and burn excessive oil.
I have one of these as a 2 liter in my SAAB, that part at the end with the baffles in the valve cover finally made me understand why I keep finding a thin mist of oil on the inside of the turbo intake pipe, after the air filter. I also realized watching this that there's no actual gasket on the valve cover.
Mine's a late '02 / early '03, so it's coming up on almost 20 years and 140k miles, and I think that gooey stuff they used to seal it is starting to give up the ghost.
The intake side is fine, but the exhaust one has the turbo mounted almost at the level of the valve cover and it's started to weep a bit of oil through there. The worst part is, it literally cooks off the engine and the ventilation system just picks up the fumes and channels them into the car. It's not something you notice on long trips, but in town when you just sit at a traffic light, it has enough time to build up a small cloud and as you set off you get a waft of burnt oil....
Also, ever since I bought it, the water pump will randomly leak. Sometimes you go for weeks with no change, then one night half of the expansion bowl is gone. It's supposed to be a modern engine but I still always keep a bottle each of coolant, oil and hydraulic fluid in the trunk like the good ol' days.
It's cool how you ALWAYS upload at 12:00 PM est.
Is this a good time for you?
@@speedkar99 anytime is a good time.
Thanks
It still surprises me that the inherent disadvantages of Direct Injection are never highlighted to customers. Thanks for pointing it out.
Anyone who is annoyed by this, just get a port-injected car, of if it has to be a new one, Toyota has D-4S that uses both technologies. Make sure it has D-4S though, not all of them do.
Since this seems to be a common thing on RUclips and other sites, I decided to look it up. Galley: 1) a ship or boat propelled solely or chiefly by oars; 2) the kitchen and cooking apparatus especially of a ship or airplane. Gallery: a long and narrow passage, apartment, or corridor. The passages in an engine through which oil flows are *galleries*.
Co-signed.
Good catch. I correct folks grammar when the apostrophize plural words. I never look back at my comments to see how angry and butt-hurt they are.. Nice work!
@@silasmarner7586 You missed an apostrophe on "folks", professor.
👨🎓💩🤣🤣🤣
I don't think the failed con rod was because of the lack of pressure in the tensioner. A skipped cam tooth would have shown damage/marks to all pistons and intake valves. I believe the lack of oil to the con rod bearing was the culprit. Signs of failure are present in one of the other journals also.
Yup, and long periods between oil changes will clog oil ports. C’mon people!! Oil changes are not that difficult to remember. And you can’t use the “it’s too expensive to get my oil changed” BS as an excuse. That’s why God created Jiffy Lube. 😝
I had a Sunfire with the old style tensioner ,it just fell apart, dropping prices into the timing cover, I was able to recover them, but around 90k I started seeing metal in the oil, also this engine required oil changes every 3k, you could tell the oil was breaking down because the car would run bad, and yes it did burn oil faster then it should.
Good video description of this engine. I have a 2.2 Ecotec in a 2008 Pontiac G5, 219,000 miles right now. They are good engines, they can last a long, long time. Timing chain tensioners are a potential problem, mainly in neglected engines. However, it is not unheard of timing chain failures in low mileage, well maintained engines.
If maintained properly, these engines typically don’t burn any oil. Lots of German engineering, I hope I don’t have to change the water pump for a very long time.
Unfortunately, these engines were installed in a lot of low budget vehicles and owners don’t maintain them properly.
Agreed. The engines can go if maintained but the demographic just don't maintain them
Great description of the Ecotec! I've been running pre-05 L61 ecotecs in my endurance racing Sunfire. Ive had 2 engines break connecting rods as well as bought the original car 7yrs old with a broken rod. With No warning. If this was timing chain failure, you would see valve to piston contact on at least 1 other cylinder. Connecting rods are the weak link and were upgraded by 08 engines. My broken engines were still in correct timing. I think worn connecting rod bearings make lateral drag on rods and they snap. Now I run an oil cooler and level zero balance shaft delete kit. (-9 lbs, Fewer demands on oil supply & more power).
*_I'm taking automotive in college, and this video helped me understand the engine more. Great job!_*
Glad it helped. I have lots of engine videos to help you out
What's the purpose of those balancer shafts?
I think those are part of a system assists with mitigating the vibrations caused by the engine as it functions.
Why to balance of course
If you've ever driven an inline 4 engine that doesn't have balance shafts you'll understand their purpose. 4 bangers are some of the roughest engines out there.
@@mrflamewars the balance shafts are commonly deleted on these engines in performance applications, nvh is increased but for a faster revving engine
I have the 04 2.2 ecotec Cavalier. Had it since new. No burning oil, no ticking, no leaking, she's been good. I keep up regular maintenance on her. She's my secondary car, just use to go to and from work, since it's so good on ⛽. So far so good. *knock on wood*
Regardless of what engine you use, check your fluid levels (especially oil) at every fill up! One thing that I don’t think was mentioned in the video is that the newer ecotecs have smaller oil capacity like 3.9-4.2 qts so any oil burned is even more obvious as the level drops faster. It’s best to change oil early and often but even if you don’t, dirty oil is better than no oil at all.
Agreed. I check my oil at every fill up.
Gold nuggets of information separated by humor. What could be better?
My friend has a chevy malibu, and trust me those 4 bangers just self destruct.
What year?
@@speedkar99 2016 with the 1.5 turbo
Yeah, the new turboed things everywhere..., new way of reinventing the wheel. As if they didn't have enough problems already
@@vishalakula8451 Yeah the 1.5 and its 1.4 sibling (not to be confused with the iron block 1.4) love to self destruct pistons, specifically the ring lands.
My friend's husband was a master tech at a chevy dealer. He would spend days just replacing the little turbos. They'd fail in one way or another.
2003 chevy cavalier 2.2L manual 5 speed is my daily driver.
After a trip to the junk yard recently...4/6 cavaliers they had were over 400k miles.
Bought mine in FL at 117k miles. Took off the valve cover to find nothing but sludge. Replaced the timing chain and its still going at 180k. I tow a trailer and fishing boat with this car regularly. Maintenance has been kept up to date since ive owned it. Went across the front bumper of a tractor trailer on the expressway and am still driving it.
This car is bulletproof....inspectors were complimenting it at my last inspection.
"Never mind the duct tape. That's actually the main oil galley so it's just going to pour oil out. Could of got away with duct tape on this side though."
Too funny!
Great explanation. Just saw one of these fail, probably because of the timing chain/oil problem. Only 9 years old. Now I understand.
That engine never had an oil change. Can't blame this on GM although I would never own one.
I'm in school right now for 2nd year automotive and we're learning engines and these are the ones we're taking apart
So glad this is still happening, well done sir
I'm amazed at all the people that ran these engines to over 100k miles without issue. I believe in changing oil sooner than the recommended intervals and it has always paid off. Oil still carries particulates and wears faster the older it gets. Anyway, thanks for this informative video!
Thanks and agreed. Some of the older Ecotec last long. The newer ones aren't as good
In the 70's we used to say that GM just can't build good small engines. We still say that.
Especially the vega
We never experienced any problems on this side of the Atlantic.
GM/Pontiac Iron Duke 4's last forever... as did Chevy 4's and 6's...
@@BuzzLOLOL they were ok. So was the V-6 179, 231. The problems started when they started making efficient engines in the 70's. The 2.3L in the Vega with the aluminum head. The 2.5L LE2 series put in the GM X cars. The Iron Duke engine was a return to their proven roots using 50's tech to try and rebuild their reputation. GM makes great larger engines. The 3.8L was bullet proof, the LS and LT series are fantastic. Its when they try to blend "new tech" and "cheap" into the same engine that they flop.
Ouch
Great breakdown on what went wrong with this engine not only an operation but design wise.
Don't worry he cleans his brothers toothbrush with brake cleaner before he puts it back
GOOD JOB!
Hahaha
He cleans it with brakecleen to keep from getting grease around the toilet base, before putting it back in the brush holder. 😁👍
His brother will never know. Lol
Incredibly educational and nice to see the nuts and bolts of the engine. Thank you for making this video!
Glad you like it
The chain tensioner is hydraulic by oil pressure. That's why it seems loose but when engine is running it will take out the slack.
That chain/guides was prolly excessively stretched by high miles as the hydraulic adjusters have one way locks that prevent them from collapsing after compensating for wear...
Thank you for you showing me how my 2.0 works.... We have a 2018 Camaro RS (Yellow) with the 2.0 and a manual transmission... I change my oil every 4 to5,000 miles (oil filter also) it has 33,000 miles on it. I have installed a cetch can (oil). I want to make our 2.0 engine last. I keep my RPM's above 2,000. so not to lug my engine..... I don't down shift, brakes are cheaper than a transmission . Living in Northern Nevada we have a lot of mountains... so I cost as much a posable, We drive 30 miles to town. We get 30 MPG to 37. (was our best). I use 5th gear most of the time and 6th gear as a overdrive. Plus when I see a red stop light far up there i'll cost up to it. I'll put a 1/2 quart of transmission fluid in the engine and run it for 100 miles to clean the engine, then change the oil and oil filet. I have been running the highest fuel I can get. Is that really pessary ? Do you recommend any fuel treatment to clean my engine. ? I'm 79 years young and We really enjoy our Yellow Camaro RS. Oh yes I have installed a spare tire. Thank You so much....
Awesome as usual man. I asked I’m another video, but any chance you could do a Northstar? I think it would be great for the kind of videos you do. Probably a lot of them in junk yards lol
No junkyard is complete without a row of 90s Devilles and Sevilles, and early SRXes.
classic northstar with lifted head bolts lol
@@tylerwilkey13 😆😆🤣
I`m just impressed by how you can take engines apart and know exactly what`s going on lol. I`m too afraid to even do basic stuff like oil changes by myself lmao
1.4 turbo LE2 in a 2018 Chevy Cruze, 0w-20 full synthetic (Mobil 1) with Mobil 1 filter every 3500-4000 miles. 75000 so far with zero issues. The only caveat is to make sure you seat the engine air filter correctly. Had me chasing down a P0172 code for weeks. The cabin air filter is a real chore, but other than that it's been super reliable.
I love your videos man! I learn so much and it's quite entertaining, keep up the good work!
Glad you enjoy it. Please share it on your network!
Great video, I just recently replaced one of these motors on a customer’s vehicle and it appeared to fail in this way. It was cool to see a more in depth tear down.
Was it a 2.2 ecotec or 2.4?
@@speedkar99 2.4
Inspection window! I love it!
Me too
I want to start this off by saying this is mostly additional info for people. I find he did a great job making an unbiased video about this engine. "While I can't speak for all of them the 2.0-2.4l ecotecs from 2004-2013ish (the 2002-2003 had an issue that if you baby it, the cam chain squirter wouldn't lubricate properly but that was found out and fixed within 2 years and was a $20 part that could be replaced in an hour with the engine in the car.) had almost no failures that weren't maintenance related or low % unlucky QC and had no recalls whatsoever. Also considering it was made as an economy engine with no intent to make it a performance one (the 2.0 is their realization that it could and is only a destroked L61 with piston squirters installed from the factory) the power you can get out of it safely per step up is crazy. This engine starts at 140HP and 130 torque from factory and the GM build guide states stock it's good up to 250HP, after that it's pistons and rods then it's good to 500HP, then a billet crank till 750HP, then they recommend better cylinder liners and a different oil pick up and that's good up to 1000HP and after that I think performance GM made a copy of that block out of higher quality aluminum and a better casting procedure that safely makes 1400HP."
Also might as well put this here since this will likely lead Ecotec people here. If you're interested I'm going to be supercharging my 2005 Cavalier and this is the build list. Mostly full rebuild of the trans (steel plates, bands, seals, washers, new/upgraded electronics, :OPT 4T40 kit with almost all the extras:, LSD kit) full engine rebuild kit, new valves(oem), forged rods, forged pistons, stage 2 cams, neutral balance shafts, rebuilt M62, SS intake, (ZZP super kit, 82 springs, #60 injectors, new rollers, updated lash adjusters), complete front suspension replacement, all new coilovers (KYB strut plus) and will be painting the engine bay, and everything attached to the engine more or less. Am expecting 250ish wheel HP.
Nice
I've had ecotecs go well over 380k before the bodys of the vehicles went.
These engines are just as reliable as the gutless Toyota Corolla engines when properly maintained.
Exactly idfk why people hate on them
Not the engines being made now! One of my friends is a service tech at a GM dealership and I know they replaced 3 Chevy Trail Blazer engines under warranty and had service records at the dealer. He told me as a friend to NOT buy any GM product right now. These were 2022 engines. There have been so many engine failures there is a long wait list for new engines because there are none to replace them with. These owners have to wait for an engine. The parts shortage has made it even worse.GM engines were pretty good until about 2005 then they went to crap ever since. I will continue to buy Toyotas and your comment is a real joke trying to compare these junk GM designed engines to Toyotas. Here is a video he made to educate Toyota haters ruclips.net/video/l6WXqdaiuKo/видео.html
Lol you’ve ‘had’ ecotecs go over 380k
Toyota corollas are expected to go over 380k
@@damonleeb I've seen ecos go over 700k
The ecotec engine is a descendant of the Saab 99 slant four engine, the 99 was a descendant of the triumph slant four used in the TR7. It was reliable when it didn’t produce as much power. My TR7 has the original British Leyland 2.0L slant four with 66,000 miles on it. It’s 45 years old and was sitting for 10 of those years. She runs like a top and all that I have done is be on time with oil changes and replacing the timing chain and tensioner once
I have the same engine on my base model 2004 Saturn Vue. (With 5 speed manual trans) still going strong with 286k miles. It just burns a little oil. (About half a quart of oil every 2500 miles) not bad. Just keep up with oil and fluid maintenance and it will continue going strong.
KEEP OIL IN IT ,. If not the timing chain will fail
I have a 2.2 ecotech with 180k i suspect that it will start burning oil soon do you all recommend just topping it off till an oil change or taking all the oil out and filling it every time it gets low?
At the dealership we call these money makers especially the 2.4L Direct Injected variant. Oil consumption issues (piston rings), timing chain failures, cam phaser failure, cam phaser solenoids galore, blown rear main seals and so-on. and maybe once in a while a high pressure fuel pump dumps fuel in the oil.
I'm always amazed how many of these roll in rattling like a diesel while 1qt of oil circulates in the pan.
I thought some of the older 2.2 ecotecs were reliable?
So basically when you slip up on oil changes combined with high mileage the timing goes and it'ss good by engine?
Yes they were. Except the blown one in this video is a 2.2...
Great tear down. I never understood why so many engines are made as interference engines when others are not. If one can make noninterference, then why not all. This would save so many engines.
Nice video man, i got one of the newer 1.4 ecotec engines. I check fluids religiously, so far so good. The main issue with the 1.4 are the pcv system and coolant leaks.
pray it's not the head gasket
@@kclefthanded427 not head gasket. It has issues with overflow tank cracking and a bunch of plasticky bits that are bolted on the engine could cause it. water pump could have a leak as well and that's covered with extended warranty. to my knowledge head gaskets are not a common issue on these
I enjoy my cruze alot, has the 1.4 ecotec. Been very reliable and if something did go it was super cheap and easy to fix myself
@@eddie3500 same, you can't abuse it like a corolla. but if you pay attention to it, it will serve you well
@@amirmograbi yup I'm under the hood every week checking my fluids but I'd do that to any car id own anyways. I don't understand all the hate the cruzes get
I have a 2016 Chevy Equinox with just over 38000 miles on the OD. So far, it's doing pretty good. There's no oil consumption issue happening and I want to keep it that way. I believe that just about any engine can be reliable with regular maintenance. I keep up on maintenance like changing the oil as needed every 5000 miles and I use premium oil for extra protection. A lot of people don't maintain their engines properly and complain when they break down. I'm hoping I can avoid catastrophic failure of my engine by changing my oil when needed. I'm not going to lie. That's one of the things I fear the most as a vehicle owner.
ive got the l61 2.2 ecotec in my 2005 chevrolet classic, 212,790 miles and still going for its age!
regular maintenance goes A LONG way
This engine fail due low oil.
150k on my 2.2 daily and running strong. Doesn't show even oil residue. Always used high mileage and a quart of Lucas after 70k. Did have to tap the top tensioner bolt generously to free it up and relieve the cold start chain noise. It's a dreadful noise for 3 seconds or so. If you maintain these engines they are about bulletproof. Also did all the other basics like brake system flush, coolant flush, trans flush @70k and recently did a trans pan drop and filter replacement.
13:10 I like the inspection windows for easy diagnostic 😂
Just came across this video. Knowledgeable, quick, well spoken ,great. Subscribed. Keep up the great work
Glad you found it useful
A galley is the kitchen on a boat or ship. A gallery is a passage to move a liquid from one point to another. Words have meanings.
Sorry I kept confusing the two
Let's eat.
@@speedkar99 You're not the only person from North America that does this. I wonder what started it.
I was going to post the same thing. It's becoming endemic in videos from North Americans.
@@Graham_Langley Take a look. This is where it gets confusing.
www.google.com/search?q=oil+galley+cleaning&client=firefox-b-1-d&sxsrf=ALeKk00Ofk9ueKRYLbzzcP5ou-liGE2aRQ:1620772535413&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjfifCZ2MLwAhXBup4KHaF5BScQ_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1536&bih=717&dpr=1.25
I'm not a mechanic but you made that whole break down very easy to understand. Thanks, I feel like I actually learned something.
We should all send you some used toothbrushes to save you taking your brothers lol
Two of the things I repurpose all the time in my house, old toothbrushes and old t-shirts. My t-shirts are 100% cotton and make great rags for cleaning up and working on cars.
That was an AWESOME breakdown! I have the same engine on my 2008 HHR. Interesting to see the interiors👍🏻
Oh boy... My coworkers hhr engine blew out on the highway... Becareful
I'm glad you still have your brothers toothbrush !!!
I have this exact engine in my 09 Pontiac g6. 220k miles original engine and transmission. Transmission fluid has been changed regularly and I change my engine oil every 5000 miles religiously. She does not burn a drop of oil. Great engines if you maintain them
This engine family hasn't been made since the 2017 model year. They reused the name on several newer engine families but these ones went away when the 2018 Equinox and Terrain came out. When you were showing the connecting rods those didn't have any bearings in them. The surface you were looking at was the connecting rod itself. Also the broken connecting rod happened first and likely due to a bearing failure from very low oil level. The damage to the piston and valve contact happened from it hitting the cylinder head due to the fact it was no longer attached to the crankshaft. In my experience it would have to have been several litres down. I've worked on many of the newer 2.4s and they drink oil badly. I've seen several stalling out due to only having around 1.6l of oil left in the crankcase (4.7l is full). Even the ones run that low on oil I've hardly ever seen spun bearings. It will stretch the timing chain and cause broken guides almost for sure though. I wonder if this one died of a loose drain plug from a Jiffy Lube oil change.
I do have a 2008 Astra XR with 170k and I love the 1.8 engine. Makes 33 mpg and goes fast when you press the pedal. 5 speed manual.
Saturn?
@@speedkar99 yes
your content is entertaining and educational. thank you for providing an aspiring mechanic great study material!
Nice dissection ! Ive got one of these in a 2011 Buick Regal and am about to do an engine swap.
"Too bad it's not a 10mm", LMAO!!
My daily is a salvaged 2005 ion 3 quad coupe that I bought for 400 bucks with a bad clutch. Swapped clutch and many suspension components in my storage shed over the summer. Timing tensioner failed on me about a month ago and my ignorance allowed me to just change it and when i went to crank the main chain guide broke making horrible sounds. I shut it off in time and replaced all chain guide and sprocket components using the updated oem replacements. dropped oil pan to retrieve plastics guide pieces and carefully cleaned all passages. new gaskets the works. upon start up the cold start timing chain noise/knocking sound was even louder now but soon as you apply throttle it goes away. had an injector and fuel line go due to rusty lines. This all happened at 190.000 and I just went to change my oil the other day as it has bad blow by (always has since i owned it) and stuck to my drain plugs magnet was pieces of what looks like a very thick piston ring.. pop oil cap running and it definitely is blowing air out with nasty sludge on cap. sucks i did all this work and idk if i should replace the rings or try to find a jy engine with lower miles? any advice? i have brand new tires and everything on this car I'm🤕🥺 in it for about triple its 1175 value if i find a good engine for around 500 total.. i have all the tools and feel confident i can swap it or rebuild.i did the sub frame and transmission drop all by my lonely with some bungees and ratchet straps rigged with hoist to assist in removal and reinstallation (lots of cussing but for my first i am proud) car drives well weak on power my mpg sucks and it smokes after revving 2k or more. i just got it on the road and its body is with minimal rust compared to my very unsafe 05 monte carlo lt... that thing should be folding in on itself any minute now
I had this 2.4L in my 2003 grand am. It's a shame i had to get rid of the car. Rear main seal was leaking making a mess and was quoted a big price to repair. I really liked the otherwise reliable engine and economy it provided to operate and travel frequently. It rivaled Hondas of the same era for fuel economy.
DID YOU TRY THE MECHANIC IN A CAN, REAR ENGINE SEAL, IT USUALLY WORKS SOFTENING THE SEAL AND SWELLING IT.
I like the way he explains everything, very easy to follow his instructions
Balance shafts run off a secondary timing chain, so it’s basically got two timing chains you need to set. What a nightmare.
Coloured links on the chains line up with marks, takes 10mins to time the whole engine
Make a sketch of chain and sprocket positions on tear down...
perfect i am dealing with my seized ecotec 2.2 and this is very helpful for my teardown
Glad it helped!
water pump is connected to the timing chain, so if it leaks, and you pull it out, you will cause the timing to jump and destroy the engine. Unless you have a tool or something to keep the place of the water pump during the removal. If this is correct, this would be like a $1000 job to change the water pump, labor and parts?
There is a tool to hold the water pump sprocket in place via the small window in the timing cover. I'm not sure on price but its probably near or just under that.
The special tool was $32 , water pump was $60, repair book was $20
@@lowlifeangler most mechanics want a grand to do the job, see below. There is no way I would attempt this where the worst possible outcome is the destruction of the engine. This is poor design fraught with unnecessary risk.
for some reason it wont let me post a link to the car wizard video on changing water pump on chevy equinox in which he says you might as well have a BMW if you want to change the water pump on an 2.4l equinox.
This is an awesome video. Thank you so much for uploading, this is exactly what I needed. Thanks for being clear spoken and explaining in detail everything I was seeing on screen. Please keep it up, need more!
Looks like stuntman from neutral drop got a hold of it!
Did he?😶
2012 Malibu with the 2.4 Ecotec. 258k with no major engine issues. Most of the repairs have been electrical and not severe.
The ecotec is usually decent if the maintenance schedule is followed STRICTLY. They won’t burn oil unless they are neglected. And they usually are, but because they’re German designed engines they can’t handle neglect.
When Toyota engines fail, speedkar would blame it on the owner for not maintaining it. When an Ecotec fails, speedkar blames GM. I guess it's GM's fault when someone goes 10k+ miles between oil changes or never checks their oil level.
Mine started burning oil around 50k miles....and I changed the oil every 3000 miles. The internal PCV system was the original fault. That said....the motor survived 425k miles of me beating the living shit out of it and is probably still being driven by it's second owner.
My car has the Ecotec 2.2 and it is burning oil, the valve stem seals are worn and I was considering replacing them but you have convinced me not to bother, I really think the engine is too far gone and the work involved plus cost is not worth it in my opinion. Interestingly my car has an oil level sensor that alerts me when the oil level gets down by about half a litre. I should say even thought my car has fairly high mileage it runs well and I think the problems with the engine might trace back to a stuck thermostat that severely restricted coolant flow but at the same time the temperature gauge was reading normal temps. Perhaps if I had caught that problem early it might not be burning so much oil.
Drive until it dies
"Given this is a cobalt, cheap maintenance is what is to be expected"
glad I'm not part of that majority with my cobalt.
same here
I think that observation was off Target myself. I personally don't buy Chevrolet products or General motors products I just don't like the way they're engineered. That's my opinion I don't think someone that buys them is dumber or smarter than me they just have a different opinion. But maintenance failures is not a financial concern as much it is individual responsibility. I remember we have a multi-million dollar Governor here in Florida who ended up in the Senate by the name of Bob Graham. He personally led the crusade to get rid of auto inspections for safety and emissions. Well just before the inspections law ran out, he took his motorhome in for an inspection. He had burnout lights a hole in his exhaust and his brakes were pulling. These are all things that fail a vehicle for an inspection. Keep in mind he was a multimillionaire. So money doesn't necessarily mean people maintain their vehicles. I bet his tires were old on that vehicle too if he had a hole in the exhaust.
@@JohnRodriguesPhotographer for sure! It doesn't take much to keep a car well maintained. Just basic maintenance, catching things before they get too far gone makes a big difference. My cobalt certainly wasn't my first pick, but it's lasted 128k miles with out much repair needed other than basic maintenance and upkeep
@@JohnRodriguesPhotographer his biggest problem is, alas, a common one.
A loose nut behind the wheel.
@@cmdr_scotty Never had one myself, but I have 2 friends with cars that have Ecotec 2.2s. One is a 2009 Cobalt that has been in my friend's care for 5+ years now. He maintains it properly and did a minor overhaul on the transmission and cooling system a few months ago, in addition to replacing the valve cover gasket and deep cleaning the inside to remove all carbon deposits. It is on it's 2nd transmission, but the previous owner didn't maintain it. Aside from that, the only failure was from a radiator hose shifting and hitting the fan or something. Easy to fix.
The other is a 2002 Saturn L200 with the same engine and trans that the owner has had for about 1 year. This one was in much better shape upon purchase and he abides by very strict maintenance schedules at my behest (I'm the one who services it. My other friend is a mechanic as well, but this friend has very little experience there). Even with that, it costs him very little to run (and the car itself was only $1300) and it'll run reliably for a long time to come.
fun fact, the 1.6l ecotech found in 2009 chevy aveos can survive slipping exactly 1 tooth on their timing belts, (the valves kissed the carbon on the piston head, but didnt impact) source: i drove mine home from my workplace about 30 miles home, then spend about 8 hours gaining access and re-aligning the timing. It has begun to leak oil at a prodigious rate, 12 years and 180,000 miles, replacing the oil cooler/filter housing helped quite a bit, but its still dripping. also beware the stripping of threads with your steel oil drainplug and aluminum pan.
12:02 how do you learn all these facts like "this chain tensioner is controversial" for so many different makes and models? Do you research a lot for each engine?
I guess he's in the trade.
experience
I love the style of these videos. Please don't ever stop!
The "Ecobreak" Engine
Good one haha
Funny that I can pull tons of early 2000s Saturn's and Cavaliers with 200,000 mile plus on with this very engine and have had 2 cars with that very engine get 200 plus... this engine gets a bad rap cause any engine gonna fail when u never change the oil!!!
Have this exact engine,
09 Chevrolet Cobalt LT, hand me down, 136000 miles.
Carfax says 14 owners since 2009, and a number of accidents.
Fully restored it with junkyard and Duralast parts, except the inside of the motor. Hell, even changed the transmission fluid(4T45E Auto Transaxle) at 124000.
Car runs really well for its’ age, upped the oil to 10w-30 at 127000(live in Arizona), to try and help get thicker oil in smaller tolerances of mechanical wear.
Started changing the oil every 2000 miles for about 6 months.
Aside from using quality spark plugs, changing the oil every 3-4000 miles, and changing the engine mounts, is there anything I can do, besides getting rid of the Cobalt, that can try to make it last longer?
He angry at that motor.. i remember my first broken piston i chucked as hard as i could across the yard.. found it with my mower which ironically caused that 1400$ mower to become junk when it bent the crank and caused a piston rod to break... it feels real good to relieve some tension on inanimate objects but inanimate objects like to bite back.. just like no matter how pissed you get or how careful you are, when you drop a bolt its still going to somehow end up a hundred miles away from where you saw it hit the ground, right in some shit you said youd clean up later.. like how everytime you suddenly think "i need to go put on some safety glasses" you just fucking then get something in your eye.. or why a fart can linger for 20 minutes under a car even when the wind is blowing.. like as soon as you think "im about to bust my knuckles or elbow open" you dont even finish the thought before shit slips or breaks and you cant feel half your arm for a half hour..
Ill tell ya what does relieve stress though.. when a buddies helping you check for spark and you hit the ignition before they let go of the plug.. gets a smile on my face everytime..
Great video! Just wanted to correct one quick thing: you cant actually use duct tape on those inspection ports. I know its listed as manufacturer spec for these GM engines but we've done it a few times at my shop and they eventually leak oil again... However you can use flex tape. Just slap some of that stuff on there and problem solved! Hope this helps
Thanks so much for the tips
I'm sure alot of shops will use flex tape to get a car through an auction haha
@@speedkar99 flexible tape and even more flexible morals 😂
These aren't bad engines, I have one with 265k miles. CHANGE THE OIL! Also keep after the timing chain and tensioner!
"Oil's cheap...engines are expensive." Scotty Kilmer
It's just they are little bit weak for 2.4 ..they produce llesse. Power than its rivaals
How often have you done the timing chain ? I did mine at 161,000
@@chrisomalley7536 Well as I stated above, I changed out the chain at about 250, still going now with 267k I would have done the same as you but I bought the car when it had about 237k I would be nervous too at 161k The chain and shoes were in great condition and were original, I did it for peace of mind. If these engines had regular oil changes, I'd feel safe running on up to close to 200k My Ecotec must of needed the timing chain kit because the motor is so damn quiet now at a light I think it shut off, scares me for a second until I look at the teach, ya can't hear it run, ya can't feel it run. Stay safe out there!
@@chrisomalley7536 One other thing I meant tach , not teach (spell check) the oil spray nozzle which oils the chain could get clogged and starve the chain for oil. It just so happened, my Cav. Was well maintained by the previous owner, but you just don't know sometimes.
brilliant as usual
how would you clean the carbon on valves if you have a GDI ecotec engine
Walnut blaster
Add GM valve cleaner to gas...
>what causes these engines to fail just so often
>mine with 228k holding 400whp no problem 👀