Good Video TDub, I never use anything to spread the female part of the clamp apart. I'll use needle nose plyers on the backside of the male connector after soaking with WD40 and gently pull/twist apart. If you do have a loose female connector. Use your small needle nose plyers and insert into female connector and roll in the lip. That causes tension and holds the male end of the connector tightly again. As you saw, trying to crimp or crush the female connector to make it tighter, with the male connector inserted does not work. I'm always looking forward to your next videos. Great job.
thank you! yeah, that was where I messed up, should have mentioned that in the video. good advice. and put some dielectric grease over it after you reconnect to prevent corrosion. glad to hear! much appreciated
I tried that a few times. still couln't get it tight, probably would have worked best if I didn't bend them in the first place and use some needle nose to roll them. thanks!
Oh boy, vehicle electrical wiring is right in my wheelhouse. I'm not trying to be That Guy, you know, the one who's in all the youtube comments... But, if it were me, I would not have employed the solution that you did. What you've done is converted two potential failure points into four, now that you have extra spade lugs and and an additional butt splice in there. (Heheh, "butt.") You've got a lot of extra wiring length and hard 90/180 degree bends you've had to create to stuff it all back in, also. The factory connector was just fine, and could easily be salvaged by bending it back or replaced easily with a single crimp. Those bullet plug splitters are common to a lot of Japanese bikes and they're really cheap to buy online if you ever do need to replace one. Typically they fit 3.5 or 4mm bullet plugs. They're used pretty much anywhere a 12v wire has to be split into two on a bike. I keep a ton of bullet plug connectors on hand because all kinds of stuff on bikes will also use them, in particular turn signal assemblies. (I'm sure I don't need to tell you how often we like to smash those off in the dirt.) My rule of thumb is to slather dielectric grease all over any connector you have occasion to touch anywhere on any vehicle. Dielectric grease will keep water out of the connections and is especially important in connectors that are not sealed in any way. This will eliminate such corrosion issues in the future. I'd have reshaped the original bullet plug splitter, cleaned it up, reconnected everything, greased it, and sealed it up with a length of heat shrink tubing over the whole thing. If those heat shrink equipped spade lugs annoy you: don't worry, it's not just you. They annoy everyone. If you have to use them for something or another (for instance, replacing a factory connector that is already a spade) I find it much less of a hassle to use normal non-insulated, non-heatshrink ones and slide a piece of normal heat shrink tubing over top and shrink it after you've made all the crimps and connections. For anyone else watching: Be careful using those heat shrink connectors and watch the temperature rating of your wire's insulation. Often you have to cook the thick heat shrink shrouds around these things so much you wind up melting the insulation on your wires if it's a lower temperature type. Also, don't shrink the parts around where the male and female connections are or you'll never be able to get the damn thing apart again! You'll give yourself a headache replacing your turn signal indicator with an LED, so I'll let you in on what you'll have to do in advance. Bikes with a single turn signal indicator are wired such that they actually reverse the polarity on the bulb socket depending on whether you're signalling left or right. It uses the wiring on the opposite side as the ground. LED's are polar, incandescent light bulbs are not. So from a light bulb's perspective this doesn't matter, but from an LED's it does. You'll find that the LED bulb will work when you signal one way and won't work when you signal the other... There are a couple of ways around this, and no -- replacing your flasher with an LED rated one won't help. My preferred method is to clip the wires coming off of the bulb socket and use a pair of diodes -- one pointed one way, one the other -- both connected to one wire on the socket to ensure that this wire is ALWAYS positive no matter what. Then run the other wire coming off of the socket to a separate ground. You can splice in to any of the ground wires already on your gauge cluster, or just use a big ring terminal and tuck it under a nearby bolt. You could also just put a simple rectifier in line with the socket. Plan C is to get a "reversible" LED module which has a rectifier built in, but they're really hard to find in the sizes needed for dash indicators. I have circuit diagrams I could show you if you need them, but the links are hella long so I won't put them in a comment.
hey thanks for the info. for sure a lot of ways to do it but. I'm just not a fan of the bullet connectors. yeah would be best to go through the whole bike and use dielectric on all the connections since they are not waterproof
Outstanding Vids ... I only recently started watching your channel so ... I think you young folks call it binge watching .... anyway ..that's what I did ... you are truly gifted when it comes to getting others enthusiastic for riding ... and your instruction videos are far above the average ... great work ... I'm 67 and haven't been riding for 5 years now .... I just put a deposit down on a TW and should have it by the end of April or the first of May.... perfect for West Virginia ... we have hills and a few mountains ... noting like your's though ... best to ya ... Vern
I say yes to a video about various wire connections. I'm a technician and know it's something anyone can learn, but many are intimidated. Your teaching style would be great for a simple wiring tutorial
Hey thanks, I love soldering. I actually have a pocket size digital controlled soldering that I run off my lipo packs. I just wanted to have some connections so its easy to remove when needed. Thanks!
Most multimeters have a beeper sound setting when a circuit is closed, it looks like a speaker symbol on yours. Use it to check for bulb filiments and broken wires,etc. Also LED bulbs are polarity sensitive unlike filament types (incandescent). I just ordered a 2022 Beta 300 rr and we’re waiting for a chill riding and camping trip this summer. Great vid by the way!
Need to do the signals on mine right now too. My bike also didn't like the LED dash for the turns. I got the diode kit from procycle and a LED flasher unit to replace the other one. Still need to pickup LED bulbs for the lights themselves though.
Hey man, I don't know if you'll see this comment on a 3 week old video. Just wanted to say I am pretty sure I got unsubscribed from your channel, and also I just put down a deposit on a brand new TW200. It should be here by the end of April. I'm very excited
hey! I try to respond to all comments even if it takes me a while to get to them all. that's strange, I have heard of stuff like that happening. not sure why. very nice! you may be very happy with it the way gas prices are going. have fun!
Damn T Dub once again a good video hey if you like doing electrical so much you might want to think about getting into that as a career there's not too many people around there that enjoy doing electrical work especially on cars and motorcycles that could be a good future bro
hey thanks! yeah I should have went to school for electrical engineering. just went 2 years for associates in automotive technology. I work as a BMW technician. I never really understood electrical theory super well until I got into fpv drones. now it all makes much more sense. also learned a lot about lithium battery technology with fpv as well which will all help translate over to my van build I'm doing. once you learn the theory behind electrical it becomes much more easy and approachable.
I do alot of automotive electronics crimping. I tried the ratcheting crimpers but I always go back to my Klein pliers. Easier to use in smaller places too. I also add dielectric grease to everything I pull apart to help waterproof connections.
nice. so far the racheting crimper have worked great until these spade crimps haha. cool I just picked up some of those Klein pliers because a few of you guys recommended them. the reviews seemed great. good idea. I didn't on these because the built in heat shrink is adhesive lined making a waterproof seal. adding dielectric grease when the bike was new would have kept this from happening in the first place
Is the USB Charger held on with that new stuff they call Dual Lock Fasteners? I want some of that. Velcro isn't holding my gear indicator to the dash housing.
You love wiring problems? Oof not me 😂 I just bought a 2017 Chevy Volt Premier, and I'm about to install a 240v 32a charger in my garage, which will be overkill, but good for resale when I sell the house. It's also got me wanting to upgrade my entire service panel.
I would suggest ditching the crimps with heat shrink attached. Get non insulated crimp terminals and use separate heat shrink. If you look for marine grade, you can find adhesive lined heat shrink which seals the joint and adds a little mechanical strain relief. Plus it’s much easier to make a quality crimp without the insulator in the way. I’m like you, I like electrical work.
the heat shrink on these are marine grade as well they have an adhesive layer. just got some non-insulated crimps and separate adhesive-lined heat shrink too. that makes sense though. I'm sure there are different insulator thicknesses that can tough things off. nice, it's fun once you learn the theory side
Ahhhhhh. Thks for makin’ my Morn. Curious. Are you still running the. Golden boy. SR 244 on the front at 17,000. Miles. ….? If not what do ya run. Thks. Peace back at ya
Nice and handy video Kid. Just out of curiosity: for those close camera shots on the bulbs’ connectors etc. where do you hold your camera? Do you have a support on yourself? Thanks.
It has to be a conventional bulb for the flasher indicator. It feeds the bulb shell for one direction and feeds the pin of the bulb for the other direction so a led won't work backwards like that because it's a diode.
I put led signals on but all four flash. Doing some research I found the dash indicator halogen bulb was the culprit. Im hoping the led bulbs will fix this as now the only fix is to simply remove the bulb which leaves me with no indicator dash light.
Hi - I added 12 o’clock labs front and rear running light adapters and fixed rate turn signal adapter as well as led turn signal bulbs to my 2022 tw200. Since that time my turn signal indicator bulb is so dim it can’t be seen. Any suggestions. thanks
@@TDubsKid I ordered a diode from 12 o’clock labs and will install once it arrives. They suggested the problem comes from the led bulbs not allowing the voltage to flow through them.
Hello again from British Columbia. You talked a bit about different screw types. We have a Canadian screw invention that has been around a very long time. It is a square hole in usually 3 sizes that uses a square tipped driver or bit. It is called the Robertson, but it isn’t used in automotive applications. It is a superior screw but only used in Canada in cabinetry and other wood working or sheet metal applications. You could look up its history in Wikipedia. If I may correct you, would you not call your instrument bulbs, just filament bulbs? I think halogen is another style used in larger applications and brighter. LED is taking over in most applications now including street lights. Regards....
Hey there! Yeah those are cool, I see those in deck screws sometimes. They seem like a good screw, less likely to round out. Sure thing Filament seems like the way to go
Great video , I learned the hard way about JIS vs Phillips, rounded out a few screws. JIS are designed as to not overtorque. Also learned the hard way on hex/Allen SAE v metric, 🤦🏻♂️ I'd be interested to know what kind of strippers and crimpers your using, I need a good set 👍
FWIW, if you still have the dinky factory toolkit that came with your bike, the screwdriver within it ought to be a JIS one that matches the screws on your bike. This is a cheap-as-free solution that a lot of people don't realize they already have. I've undone a lot of screws over the years with the dumb slides-into-the-spark-plug-socket driver that came with my KLR.
@@dualsportdork1252 lol yeah. My bike is German, so I have metric hex. And star to deal with ,but yes the dinky kit has a cheap version of a star and a reverseable screwdriver/Philips,
hey, thanks! yeah, it makes a huge difference. you can sometimes use a Philips if you are careful and you apply tons of downward pressure, but not ideal. interesting, yeah, it's never fun rounding stuff out. I got links in the description to my tools. crazy seeing how much I spent on them 3 years ago compared to now. inflation is real. the automatic wire strippers work pretty well usually. sometimes there will be issues on certain types of wires due to different insulator materials and thickness but it never seems to rip off any strands of the conductor. Just will not pull off the insulator all the way sometimes. that's why I also have regular strippers just in case. you just don't want to go super cheap because build quality and tolerances are important. I love the ratcheting crimpers and haven't had a single issue until using these crimps. might have been due to the spade crimps having less thick insulation than normal so the inner crimp part wasn't being pressed down all the way since these crimpers are metered.
Nice video 👍🏼. Maybe a simple "how to" video on how to use one of those Electrical tester tools for the basics/functions would be very helpful. I have one but not sure how to use it properly. Thanks for sharing @TDubskKid
my high beam and turn signal indicator don't light up at all on my 18'. I would really like to fix but I'm afraid to open everything up. Also afraid to pay someone too much money to do this.
I don't know why they use those round bullet connectors, but you shouldn't bend the connector with pliers, ever. Those bullet connectors suck, so definitely way to go replacing them.
I’m about to do a full LED indicator lights/ turn signal install on my ‘93 TW. Been watching a lot of your videos, thanks for the good content! Right after watching this (your) video I found this (ruclips.net/video/4_QVSJZdUNY/видео.html) video. The LED turn signal issue is plaguing the entire TW community so I hope we can figure it out.
Good Video TDub, I never use anything to spread the female part of the clamp apart. I'll use needle nose plyers on the backside of the male connector after soaking with WD40 and gently pull/twist apart. If you do have a loose female connector. Use your small needle nose plyers and insert into female connector and roll in the lip. That causes tension and holds the male end of the connector tightly again. As you saw, trying to crimp or crush the female connector to make it tighter, with the male connector inserted does not work. I'm always looking forward to your next videos. Great job.
thank you! yeah, that was where I messed up, should have mentioned that in the video. good advice. and put some dielectric grease over it after you reconnect to prevent corrosion. glad to hear! much appreciated
That sounded like one of those mighty car mods conversations that’s full of euphemisms. 😁
Yeah, I was yelling at the video but he couldn’t hear me…;)
I’ve been following for a long time, And have enjoyed watching.
T dubs: disconnect the bullet connector, then it’s easy to tighten the female end with simple pliers. Love your vids and your enthusiasm!
I tried that a few times. still couln't get it tight, probably would have worked best if I didn't bend them in the first place and use some needle nose to roll them. thanks!
Wiring freaks me out so much, so I'm jealous of your confidence when doing it. Keep it up!!
yeah most people don't like the electrical side to it. I love electrical for some odd reason. thanks!
i added my own pod lights to my little bike using your videos as my sole reference. you are truly a hero to the tw community! :)
Awesome! Glad the videos helped with your install, thank you so much!
Oh boy, vehicle electrical wiring is right in my wheelhouse.
I'm not trying to be That Guy, you know, the one who's in all the youtube comments... But, if it were me, I would not have employed the solution that you did. What you've done is converted two potential failure points into four, now that you have extra spade lugs and and an additional butt splice in there. (Heheh, "butt.") You've got a lot of extra wiring length and hard 90/180 degree bends you've had to create to stuff it all back in, also. The factory connector was just fine, and could easily be salvaged by bending it back or replaced easily with a single crimp. Those bullet plug splitters are common to a lot of Japanese bikes and they're really cheap to buy online if you ever do need to replace one. Typically they fit 3.5 or 4mm bullet plugs. They're used pretty much anywhere a 12v wire has to be split into two on a bike. I keep a ton of bullet plug connectors on hand because all kinds of stuff on bikes will also use them, in particular turn signal assemblies. (I'm sure I don't need to tell you how often we like to smash those off in the dirt.)
My rule of thumb is to slather dielectric grease all over any connector you have occasion to touch anywhere on any vehicle. Dielectric grease will keep water out of the connections and is especially important in connectors that are not sealed in any way. This will eliminate such corrosion issues in the future. I'd have reshaped the original bullet plug splitter, cleaned it up, reconnected everything, greased it, and sealed it up with a length of heat shrink tubing over the whole thing.
If those heat shrink equipped spade lugs annoy you: don't worry, it's not just you. They annoy everyone. If you have to use them for something or another (for instance, replacing a factory connector that is already a spade) I find it much less of a hassle to use normal non-insulated, non-heatshrink ones and slide a piece of normal heat shrink tubing over top and shrink it after you've made all the crimps and connections. For anyone else watching: Be careful using those heat shrink connectors and watch the temperature rating of your wire's insulation. Often you have to cook the thick heat shrink shrouds around these things so much you wind up melting the insulation on your wires if it's a lower temperature type. Also, don't shrink the parts around where the male and female connections are or you'll never be able to get the damn thing apart again!
You'll give yourself a headache replacing your turn signal indicator with an LED, so I'll let you in on what you'll have to do in advance. Bikes with a single turn signal indicator are wired such that they actually reverse the polarity on the bulb socket depending on whether you're signalling left or right. It uses the wiring on the opposite side as the ground. LED's are polar, incandescent light bulbs are not. So from a light bulb's perspective this doesn't matter, but from an LED's it does. You'll find that the LED bulb will work when you signal one way and won't work when you signal the other... There are a couple of ways around this, and no -- replacing your flasher with an LED rated one won't help. My preferred method is to clip the wires coming off of the bulb socket and use a pair of diodes -- one pointed one way, one the other -- both connected to one wire on the socket to ensure that this wire is ALWAYS positive no matter what. Then run the other wire coming off of the socket to a separate ground. You can splice in to any of the ground wires already on your gauge cluster, or just use a big ring terminal and tuck it under a nearby bolt.
You could also just put a simple rectifier in line with the socket. Plan C is to get a "reversible" LED module which has a rectifier built in, but they're really hard to find in the sizes needed for dash indicators. I have circuit diagrams I could show you if you need them, but the links are hella long so I won't put them in a comment.
hey thanks for the info. for sure a lot of ways to do it but. I'm just not a fan of the bullet connectors. yeah would be best to go through the whole bike and use dielectric on all the connections since they are not waterproof
Dielectric grease in all electrical connections is a great corrosion preventative thing to do.
Yes. I always use that. It definitely keeps the water and corrosion down.
indeed! would have kept this from happening in the first place, surprised they don't put some on at the factory
I learned about those JIS screwdrivers from fortnine a couple of years ago I will never go back to Phillips!
nice! they are great, all should be that way. Philips sucks haha
Outstanding Vids ... I only recently started watching your channel so ... I think you young folks call it binge watching .... anyway ..that's what I did ... you are truly gifted when it comes to getting others enthusiastic for riding ... and your instruction videos are far above the average ... great work ... I'm 67 and haven't been riding for 5 years now .... I just put a deposit down on a TW and should have it by the end of April or the first of May.... perfect for West Virginia ... we have hills and a few mountains ... noting like your's though ... best to ya ... Vern
Hey thank you, haha, glad you enjoy the vids. Much appreciated! Good to hear your up for some more riding, should be a great bike for you. Ride safe!
I say yes to a video about various wire connections. I'm a technician and know it's something anyone can learn, but many are intimidated. Your teaching style would be great for a simple wiring tutorial
sounds good! ill have to do that maybe make a master class on it. thanks
You're a great troubleshooter.
Props...
thanks so much! love that kind of stuff
That was very interesting...... Thanks for posting...
Glad to hear! O problem, thanks for watching !
i love your vids their so helpful tdubs lovers helping each other is the best. one of the best comunities of the world! greetings from Switzerand
Thank you so much!
Nice to see you and your enthusiasms. You possess infectious stoke.
thanks! I appreciate that
nice vid on wiring for the tdubs I like the old school solder them up dielectric grease & heat shrink tube very good describing your trouble shooting
Hey thanks, I love soldering. I actually have a pocket size digital controlled soldering that I run off my lipo packs. I just wanted to have some connections so its easy to remove when needed. Thanks!
Great video! I myself do not like wiring problems, they are kind of hard for me to diagnose it's amazing that you enjoy it.
thank you! yeah most people do not like them. takes some time to learn for sure
Most multimeters have a beeper sound setting when a circuit is closed, it looks like a speaker symbol on yours. Use it to check for bulb filiments and broken wires,etc.
Also LED bulbs are polarity sensitive unlike filament types (incandescent). I just ordered a 2022 Beta 300 rr and we’re waiting for a chill riding and camping trip this summer. Great vid by the way!
Thanks for the info. Very cool, those are rad bikes. Have fun riding, summer will be here before you know it. Thanks!
Need to do the signals on mine right now too. My bike also didn't like the LED dash for the turns. I got the diode kit from procycle and a LED flasher unit to replace the other one. Still need to pickup LED bulbs for the lights themselves though.
Cool, cant wait to install led turns on mine, there are probably a few different ways to make it all work
Awesome upgrade! Also I'd leave the Christmas lights for fun
thanks! haha, maybe ill install some RGB rock lights
@@TDubsKid good idea I'd like to see that. Been thinking about some lights on my piglet.
I did the same thing! My turn signal did work either!
gottcha, Ill figure out a way once I get a chance to get into it some more
Yes, please do a wire connection video with soldering/etc!
sound good! ill probably put it on my other channel at some point
Hey man, I don't know if you'll see this comment on a 3 week old video. Just wanted to say I am pretty sure I got unsubscribed from your channel, and also I just put down a deposit on a brand new TW200. It should be here by the end of April. I'm very excited
hey! I try to respond to all comments even if it takes me a while to get to them all. that's strange, I have heard of stuff like that happening. not sure why. very nice! you may be very happy with it the way gas prices are going. have fun!
had to laugh as you iot deeper and deeper into the electrical repair. ha been there done that. Thanks for vid.
haha yeah, I was wondering how far this rabbit hole would go. no problem, thanks for watching
Nice, thanks for the video.
My brights indicator light is out on my '18 TW also.
I'll have to do this sometime.
no problem! I would check the bulb first then go from there
Damn T Dub once again a good video hey if you like doing electrical so much you might want to think about getting into that as a career there's not too many people around there that enjoy doing electrical work especially on cars and motorcycles that could be a good future bro
@@trailrideadventures I thought he said he work for Discount Tire company but I could be totally wrong
hey thanks! yeah I should have went to school for electrical engineering. just went 2 years for associates in automotive technology. I work as a BMW technician. I never really understood electrical theory super well until I got into fpv drones. now it all makes much more sense. also learned a lot about lithium battery technology with fpv as well which will all help translate over to my van build I'm doing. once you learn the theory behind electrical it becomes much more easy and approachable.
I do alot of automotive electronics crimping. I tried the ratcheting crimpers but I always go back to my Klein pliers. Easier to use in smaller places too. I also add dielectric grease to everything I pull apart to help waterproof connections.
nice. so far the racheting crimper have worked great until these spade crimps haha. cool I just picked up some of those Klein pliers because a few of you guys recommended them. the reviews seemed great. good idea. I didn't on these because the built in heat shrink is adhesive lined making a waterproof seal. adding dielectric grease when the bike was new would have kept this from happening in the first place
@@TDubsKid At some point I'll be getting a TW. Thanks for the videos! I really enjoy them.
Is the USB Charger held on with that new stuff they call Dual Lock Fasteners? I want some of that. Velcro isn't holding my gear indicator to the dash housing.
It sure is! Works great!!
My high beam indicator is out. Thanks
No problem, hope it was an easy fix
You love wiring problems? Oof not me 😂
I just bought a 2017 Chevy Volt Premier, and I'm about to install a 240v 32a charger in my garage, which will be overkill, but good for resale when I sell the house. It's also got me wanting to upgrade my entire service panel.
haha, yeah most people don't. high voltage is scary though. for sure, will future proof your house and easy to sell when everyone is buying electric
Thanks Wes, good stuff 👍🏻👍🏻
no problem! thanks for watching!
love the tutorials. thanks Dubs.
glad you enjoy them! need to make a lot more. no problem. thanks for watching
Hey there, does the speedometer have the same type of bulb? Mine burned out a couple of days ago
I have a video on it here ruclips.net/video/MnrbiqsN5HU/видео.htmlsi=8e7h3JnNGsv47WVb
I would suggest ditching the crimps with heat shrink attached. Get non insulated crimp terminals and use separate heat shrink. If you look for marine grade, you can find adhesive lined heat shrink which seals the joint and adds a little mechanical strain relief. Plus it’s much easier to make a quality crimp without the insulator in the way. I’m like you, I like electrical work.
the heat shrink on these are marine grade as well they have an adhesive layer. just got some non-insulated crimps and separate adhesive-lined heat shrink too. that makes sense though. I'm sure there are different insulator thicknesses that can tough things off. nice, it's fun once you learn the theory side
I hate wiring, but great video!
I love it but not for everyone, thanks!
Noice, very cool my brother be safe out there!
thanks! be safe as well.
Have you thought of doing custom guide trips or mostly like doing them by yourself?
too much liability if I do that
Wiring problems is never fun . You did a great job compared to me . My bike is called the Turd Wagon for a reason 😂
yeah most people don't like electrical. thanks haha, Turd wagon 😂 can a bike really be a wagon though? why not turd wheel 200?
Good product knowledge, Thanks
thanks! i'm always trying to learn more and improve
Hey bud, you ever figure out how to make the turn indicator led bulb flash with the actual indicators? Thanks
I have not yet, need to work on that at some point
@@TDubsKid - Only had time to skip thru your video, but I found out my turn signal indicator socket has reverse polarity. Did you swap the wires?
Ahhhhhh. Thks for makin’ my Morn. Curious. Are you still running the. Golden boy. SR 244 on the front at 17,000. Miles. ….? If not what do ya run. Thks. Peace back at ya
hey no problem! thanks for watching!
Nice and handy video Kid. Just out of curiosity: for those close camera shots on the bulbs’ connectors etc. where do you hold your camera? Do you have a support on yourself? Thanks.
Glad to hear. Im using a tripod in those shots
Great educational video, thanks for making it!
Glad it was helpful! no problem
It has to be a conventional bulb for the flasher indicator. It feeds the bulb shell for one direction and feeds the pin of the bulb for the other direction so a led won't work backwards like that because it's a diode.
for sure, they do make led bulbs that have special circuitry which allows them to work in either direction. that might be the key to make it work
Did you ever resolve this with a LED bulb?
I would be interested in a dedicated wiring video!
good to know! ill have to make that happen
I put led signals on but all four flash. Doing some research I found the dash indicator halogen bulb was the culprit. Im hoping the led bulbs will fix this as now the only fix is to simply remove the bulb which leaves me with no indicator dash light.
Nice job
Thanks!
Hi - I added 12 o’clock labs front and rear running light adapters and fixed rate turn signal adapter as well as led turn signal bulbs to my 2022 tw200. Since that time my turn signal indicator bulb is so dim it can’t be seen. Any suggestions. thanks
hey i'm not sure exactly, could just be a loose connection, causing a voltage drop, or the bulb itself is faulty
@@TDubsKid I ordered a diode from 12 o’clock labs and will install once it arrives. They suggested the problem comes from the led bulbs not allowing the voltage to flow through them.
Hello again from British Columbia. You talked a bit about different screw types. We have a Canadian screw invention that has been around a very long time. It is a square hole in usually 3 sizes that uses a square tipped driver or bit. It is called the Robertson, but it isn’t used in automotive applications. It is a superior screw but only used in Canada in cabinetry and other wood working or sheet metal applications. You could look up its history in Wikipedia.
If I may correct you, would you not call your instrument bulbs, just filament bulbs? I think halogen is another style used in larger applications and brighter. LED is taking over in most applications now including street lights. Regards....
Hey there! Yeah those are cool, I see those in deck screws sometimes. They seem like a good screw, less likely to round out. Sure thing Filament seems like the way to go
How can I get one of them Richard brackets
you can find them here, www.etsy.com/shop/3Dub200?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=1150703595
Great video , I learned the hard way about JIS vs Phillips, rounded out a few screws. JIS are designed as to not overtorque. Also learned the hard way on hex/Allen SAE v metric, 🤦🏻♂️ I'd be interested to know what kind of strippers and crimpers your using, I need a good set 👍
FWIW, if you still have the dinky factory toolkit that came with your bike, the screwdriver within it ought to be a JIS one that matches the screws on your bike. This is a cheap-as-free solution that a lot of people don't realize they already have.
I've undone a lot of screws over the years with the dumb slides-into-the-spark-plug-socket driver that came with my KLR.
@@dualsportdork1252 lol yeah. My bike is German, so I have metric hex. And star to deal with ,but yes the dinky kit has a cheap version of a star and a reverseable screwdriver/Philips,
hey, thanks! yeah, it makes a huge difference. you can sometimes use a Philips if you are careful and you apply tons of downward pressure, but not ideal. interesting, yeah, it's never fun rounding stuff out. I got links in the description to my tools. crazy seeing how much I spent on them 3 years ago compared to now. inflation is real. the automatic wire strippers work pretty well usually. sometimes there will be issues on certain types of wires due to different insulator materials and thickness but it never seems to rip off any strands of the conductor. Just will not pull off the insulator all the way sometimes. that's why I also have regular strippers just in case. you just don't want to go super cheap because build quality and tolerances are important. I love the ratcheting crimpers and haven't had a single issue until using these crimps. might have been due to the spade crimps having less thick insulation than normal so the inner crimp part wasn't being pressed down all the way since these crimpers are metered.
good idea with the screw driver in the tool kit, I sure hope it would be JIS haha
What's your other channel for vehicle stuff?
ruclips.net/user/bassisgood
Nice video 👍🏼. Maybe a simple "how to" video on how to use one of those Electrical tester tools for the basics/functions would be very helpful. I have one but not sure how to use it properly. Thanks for sharing @TDubskKid
thanks man! that's a good idea. ill have to do that at some point
@@TDubsKid 😎
Any luck figuring out the turn signal?
not yet but havnt spent any time on it yet
@@TDubsKid If you ever get around to it I’d love some pointers! I’m at the same place as you with it right now.
Reverse the polarity on the turn signal bulb LEDs only work in one direction
Yeah Leds them selves only work in 1 direction however some led bulbs have special circuitry thats allows them to work in either direction
Question about fuel injection. Have you looked into converting to fuel injection?
No, ill just stick with with a carb, much more simple and less to go wrong, always has started and ran great since new and never had to touch the carb
dude I have the same issue. I just got a 21 tw200 so i doubt corrosion is the problem tho
Oh wow, I would start with the bulb. Easy to swap it out with one of the other 2 as easy diag
It should have warranty also if its that new
my high beam and turn signal indicator don't light up at all on my 18'. I would really like to fix but I'm afraid to open everything up. Also afraid to pay someone too much money to do this.
yeah those are your only 2 options
T Dubs!
hey there!
👏👏
😃
Every figure out why the LED light on the turn signal indicator doesn’t work?
not yet, just haven't had the time to mess with it yet
@@TDubsKid Just got these bulbs for mine, same issue here with it not working with turn signal indicator. Very strange.
I don't know why they use those round bullet connectors, but you shouldn't bend the connector with pliers, ever. Those bullet connectors suck, so definitely way to go replacing them.
yeah they are not great, I learned that the hard way, I like spades, you can always bend those back
I’m about to do a full LED indicator lights/ turn signal install on my ‘93 TW. Been watching a lot of your videos, thanks for the good content! Right after watching this (your) video I found this (ruclips.net/video/4_QVSJZdUNY/видео.html) video. The LED turn signal issue is plaguing the entire TW community so I hope we can figure it out.
Update: found a better video.
ruclips.net/video/A98lMHwqQH0/видео.html
awesome! glad you found a good way to go about it. ill do a video on it eventually
...bro, sorry. This was terrible. But, I like your channel.
Care to explain why?
@@TDubsKid OK...it was pedestrian. Cleaning wires?
My neutral light literally just died 😅
darn it! I would start with checking the bulb then go from there
@@TDubsKid it's the bulb 👍 switched it with the high beam bulb and it works. Looks like it's time for LEDs.