Nissan 3L ZD30, turbo outlet to Intercooler modification
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- Опубликовано: 11 фев 2015
- After making changes to the airbox and turbo inlet tubing on the ZD30DI some time back, with good results, the turbo outlet to intercooler was next on the list of things to do. Quite happy with the result, didn't actually see any real change in MAFv but there could be many reasons for that, but there was a significant improvement elsewhere.
EDIT: A few days after doing the mod I did a longer run and gave it a flogging in 4th gear, I said earlier I had not noticed any major changes in MAFv in the ranges I had documented, but, on the longer harder drive I noticed a considerable rise in MAF voltage from 3,000 rpm upwards, so much so that I have a new Limp zone at just over 3,000 in 4th at 100% TPS, it is not really a problem as I don't drive it like that but the increase in performance at higher revs is quite noticeable. I can tune out the limp with my JayCar MAF voltage modifier if I need to, it looks like I fluked a good post turbo setup.
So the experience I've had is that pre turbo mods including airbox, piping, removal of screens etc gave bottom end results and the post turbo mods gave a small bottom end increase but mainly top end. 
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Love the details
Interesting vid . Looks like you have done quite a bit of R n D there. Nice work
literbikedoc Thanks mate, Yes I like to play and I enjoy documenting info for reference, a hang over of being in Engineering I suppose. Was mostly stills now moving more into vid.
Hey mate, I'm looking into this and want to know if there's any mods I can do 1 at a time as I don't have all the money right now for the lot of it. But I just brought a 2005 Nissan patrol gu st and it's done 360,000 kms. The motor is in really good condition but should there be some things I could be doing to maybe keep it going for as long as I can before a rebuild?
Thanks
Taylor
Hey mate, have you tried a k&n filter they say that make huge difference would love to hear what you reckon, and thoughts on egr block do I need tillix value for over boosting issues incase limp mode cheers
+Lachlan Kaye
Hi Lachlan, I have had a K&N for a few years now with good results, opening the airbox and modifying the turbo inlet and outlet all make a difference, the K&N tops it off, I also have a BMC airfilter, P# FB229/07 so I move between the two, the BMC is a little smaller in OD giving better airflow around the outside so you are using a bit more of the filters area as witness by a significant change in the black ring you get on the standard filter, I was initially concerned that it may have caused a restriction through the webbing itself but there was no drop in MAFv at all and indeed there appeared to be a small improvement above 3500 where increased MAFv will not cause limp.
I don't use the Tillix valve, I use the good old Dawes and have for many years, I have found no reason to go away from it and I'm using 21psi.
An EGR block is a necessity especially if you don't have a catch can, I have seen throttle bodies caked with 6mm of oily sludge all around. The EGR doesn't effect limp that much, it does increase MAFv at idle because that and cruising is when it is open, limp is caused by increased MAFv due to improved air flow, boost is just the medium, so a Dawes/Needle will be necessary if your improving airflow.
The areas for limp and the MAF values that cause it are:
under 2500 = 3.88v
under 3000 = 3.98v
under 3500 = 4.2v
Could write a bloody book on this but I'll stop now :). Hope this helps.
Hi, just wondering, did you remove the intake resonator? A lot of intake pipes I've been looking to buy has removes it?
Hi Tim, yes that resonator has been gone for a long time, that was one of the first stages of the intake mods where I pieced together 3" silicone bends and ally tubing off the MAF housing down almost to the std intake and put a 3" to 2" 45 degree transition straight onto the turbo. Yes you can buy them ready made in silicone but they still do a slow transition, I prefer the fast trans. And if you fabricate it yourself you can always make changes later like my 3" to 2 1/2" like my last vid.
hey bud great vid question? how did you plum hoses back in to mid silicon joiner.thanks
Hi mate, have been on a road trip. The hose that goes onto the MAF housing had to be trimmed to fit, a slight angle change was needed, so I setup the hose that goes to the turbo inlet, cutting it as short on the narrow end as possible, making sure it cleared the pipes around it then worked backwards to the MAF housing, doing little trims as I went. Well worth the effort but if you have limp issues they will be worse after so a chip or other limp management items need to be in place.
ok thanks.
Hi there mate not sure if you still keep up with these comments love your videos! Have a 2003 zd30 all NADS done have ordered a hpd cooler arriving this week my boost gauge is currently plumbed into the IC out pipe I have seen that some put a T in the IC where the boost vacuum line goes, would doing this effect the boost gauge reading or the amount of pressure my Dawes and needle will receive? Thanks in advance
Hi Zach, yes there can be a minor effect if just a T is used, sudden changes can cause a minor fluctuation, I like to keep lines to boost gauge and to the back of the Dawes separate, both of mine are tapped separately into the cold side of the IC.
Thank you very much I think I’ll get a bung welded into the cold pipe
Great video mate. Did you go alloy or stainless for the piping?
Thanks. Did them all in alloy, much easier to work with, absolutely no downside with alloy.
Yeah sounds good.
Just finished removing those 2 mesh screens out of my intake as well! See how she runs on the commute tomorrow. I can notice you dont have that other air box under the main pipe where the vac line to from the engine and to the VNC goes? Have you just completely removed it or have a different setup?
Yes completely gone, needle valve picks up clean air via an pneumatic exhaust filter I have tucked up under the dash beside the needle valve. You will notice a change in sound with the removal of those screens and quite possibly a rise in MAFv which can trigger limp.
Is there any chance I can put that intercooler in my d22 zd30 dx model I am having stress about intercooler fittings spot like front intercooler or on top engine intercooler
Should be able to with the correct bracketing, I'm not sure what fittings your D22 has but it's basically the same engine. That IC fits onto the original mounts at the front but because it is much larger it comes with brackets that bolt to the engine at the back using existing threaded holes.
Hey bloke whats your thoughts on running without the engine cover?...cheers
+Materoa Wilson
No worries, with my Cross Country IC It won't fit anyway. The thing to remember is to make sure that if you do remove it set it up so that all the air picked up in the scoop is still forced through the IC, if it spills down the sides your wasting cooling, and will see a corresponding EGT rise.
Is there any problems getting rid of the intake resonator and disconnecting the plug that goes into it??
You can remove the resonator with no problems, mine has been gone for years, you will notice a slight change in intake sound, as for the plug you mention I assume you mean the vacuum solenoid that is bolted to the resonator, on the DI's yes you can disconnect that again with no issues, but I'm not 100% on the later CRD but suspect it would be the same.
I am currently rebuilding a ZD30DDT engine out of a Navara, not common rail engines, these engines have been beautifully engineered and in my opinion are very tough engines, I don't know anything about the patrol engine buts if its the same ZD30 then the trouble with the patrol is they have put all this crap put on the engine to gain more horsepower, bigger turbo, intercooler, and the rest, making it too complicated, the engine should never have been fitted into a patrol if this is the case.
Geeyoutoo what size air filter you running I read somewhere you weren't running the standard gu patrol air filter from memory?
I have 2 reusables I use, a K&N E-9267 and a BMC FB229/07. The BMC is a slightly smaller dia than the K&N which is slightly smaller diam than the std air filter. The BMC gives almost 30mm around the filter allowing better use of the filter area, instead of getting the round black spot on a std one you can see a larger area being used and will notice dust even around the corner.
Hey mate, whats the sizes for your intercooler piping to the turbo. If you could type me up a short parts list for it that would we awesome!
OK I will go over my notes and see what I can do tomorrow, you should be able to buy most of the bits at Autobarn these days, when I did this it was a little harder to get them. I'll add the list here.
OK found the list. In silicone I bought a 76mm short straight, a 76mm 45degree and a 76mm-51mm 45degree, the only ally tube I needed was a 250mm x76mm 45degree, I had to shorten the bend anyway so I was able to use those off cuts as a short transition to gain the correct length, I trimmed the rolled ends off the ally bend, there is no pressure in there so they are unnecessary. The silicone 45 degree needed a bit of trimming to get the angles to line up, about 6mm off one side at the back.
I bought this gear from ARE in Brisbane (not sure they are still there) but I'm sure you can get it from Autobarn. Hope this helps.
How can I change turbo for nissan caravan as 30 motor from the normal engine body?
Hi Mate. Not sure of what you are asking, we don't see many Nissan Caravan's here so I know nothing about them. Are you talking about changing the whole turbo or just the intake?
Geeyoutoo
I wanted to know where can I direct pipes of inlet and outlet of nissan caravan zd 30 turbo. I changed engine before was normal zd30. But now I got the same engine but this one has turbo. I wants your help on modification of pipes turbo where can I alocate it. Thank you.
OK what I would suggest, seeing as this could get very complicated, I'm on a forum called Patrol4x4.com if you googled that I would suggest you join and introduce yourself, we have a specialised ZD30DI engine section and you would be able to put up photo's so we could see exactly what you have and how much room exists. It is generally me that does new member approvals so I will see it.
Geeyoutoo
Ok thanks so much， let me have pics then I will post in order for you to see it
Awesome job GU2... mint patrol! -Dan (Ireland)
Hi Dan, is this the same Dan I know from somewhere else? :).
@@Geeyoutoo Yes Patrol Dan ;) The lad having all the drama at the moment LOL
@@RC3Dflownwithpassion I'm in the process of replacing my IP and fitting larger injectors, hope to have it back together late today, IP is a mongrel of a job on a DI.
@@Geeyoutoo Good stuff.You will be glad you did change that IP.Mine is so light on diesel and makes heaps more power.Regardless of what needs to be done to mine i'm going to keep her on the road.I love it. I will update when i get it back on what was wrong/is wrong.
are you located in qld ??
Absolutely, I'm going to be off line for around a week from today so bare with me on a reply.
Nice video. I just picked up an elgrand 1999 with zd30 that doesn't start
Is that since you bought it or after?
@@Geeyoutoo bought it for a good price. But is it a good price really if it doesn't start 🙆 will have to figure out what's wrong with it. Worst comes to worse it's the fuel pump
@@tunex_ What turbo does it have? is it a Zexel VP44 pump? Does it have the primer on the fuel filter? If so are you able to prime fuel to pump in 1-2 pumps?
@@Geeyoutoo I will have to check, if so how? Is a 1999 nissan elgrand 3litre turbo diesel X model which is the top trim.
@@tunex_ sorry can't add a pic, just google Zexel or Bosch VP44 fuel pump and you will see.
you need a different camera and or microphone, you are a bit quiet which is a shame, as your vids are exelent