For those of us who may be thinking of having something like this done, thank you for taking the time to post this so that others can learn from your experience and to know what to expect and what questions to ask
The over hang in the front is a great idea . I am for sure going to add that to mine ..watching all these vids on you tube before starting my project is awsome ..I built a shed 20 years ago by trail and error as I was building lol ..you tube takes alot of the guess work and you can pretty much find all the ups and downs before you start ..thanks for the info ..
Thanks for the video. I am in AZ and looking to good a similar style building installed. The insight into the rollup door cutout sizing (if 10’ door add 3” on each side) and using a 2x6 was very helpful. With the dimensions of your building being a 26’x50’, what were the exact dimensions of the slab you had poured? Was it exactly 26’x50’?
This is gospel for carport style sheds. 1 Lapping the *siding over the bottom rail* is critical. My builder missed that detail and water loops under there to flood the interior. I fixed that with rolls of plastic garden edging tucked under the siding lower edge. 2 I also recommend having the *bottom rail be set in sealer* to keep bugs out. 2a My two cents on a potential weakness with the bottom rail hold down bolts location. They are ridiculously too close to the slab edge < 1-1/2". What's needed is interior tabs that move the mount point away from the perimeter. 3 *Use panel closures* on corners and eves or you'll be be foaming hundreds of gaps as I had to do to keep the wind out. 4 Roll up doors are neat but when closed present a 2 "or more wide open gap at the top. I plan to install the *rubber flapper on top of the doors* instead of the perimeter "whiskers" on most commercial installs. 5 The roof rake on carport sheds is low and debris blows under the ridge vent and into the interior. I will *replace the 10" with 14" wide adding Cobra vent* strips to allow air flow. Cobra vent stacked strips can also be wedged in the long gaps where the wall meets up to the roof on gable ends. 6 *Caulk or seal carefully around the cheapo windows and doors* to keep water out. 7 Think long and hard about insulation and venting of these buildings. Moisture is biggest enemy. Be advised that problems may not show up for years. Enjoy your new building!
This video is the BEST I've watched on installing concrete for a metal carport structure. Thank you for including for real life prep and outcomes - the good the bad and the ugly! I'm planning on installing a 24'x 50' with a 15 foot lean in Missouri. I am absolutely dreading working with a site prep/concrete contractor. If it was hard for you to get what you wanted I can only imagine how horrible it will be when I, as a women, dare have an opinion. I can already hear - "well little lady..." Because of you and this video I can at least show the contractors some examples.
The metal building companies on the west coast recommended 6 inch slab extension beyond the building all the way around. I put silicone on the inside Perimeter where the rail meets the concrete and haven't had a leak in 12 years
I need the measurement for the walk in door frame width if you can get it. Not the door its self but the frame of the door that the hinges screw to. If you could get that for me it would help me out a lot
I came here for that same question! My garage requires a stem wall so the concrete will need to have an opening for the walk in door and Carolina Carports are closed until Tuesday due to the holidays.
@@Alliance-ro5gs the door frame on my carport garage is 36 inches wide outside edge to outside edge. Its the standard trailer house door that all the carport buildings use.
Long story but I had to build my own Carolina carports shop. I’m not sure I understand how the windows get trimmed out. The heads of the screws that hold the window onto the building cause a gap that the j trim sits against. Can you get me photos of what they did on your windows? They just fill the gap with caulking? Thanks.
There is currently a "riff" between CCI and their installers who are sub-contractors. The subs are picking and choosing the jobs to install. There are many who have paid for their building and have yet to realize their purchase. We are talking months now in many cases. One of my buddies has been waiting for 5 months now for the delivery and install to materialize and still nothing. The subs are only taking the largest jobs. Good luck.
Great video on the little details. What is the height on the side walls and how tall is your loft from the concrete floor to the floor of the loft Thank you
Did the builder put some kind of sealant or something in between the base rail and the concrete? I recently had a 24'x32' metal garage built and we had a 2 day rain here and i had slight "weaping" of water into the garage. Hardly anything to really worry about but it was there. Outside the slab in the exact size as the structure and it APPEARS that the slab is also about an inch or so ABOVE grade (sod coming). Could that moisture possibly be the concrete isn't completely cured yet and some moisture from the ground is getting in the concrete and and causing this? The contractor is coming out to seal the inside at the base rails real good today. It's so wet the outside seal isn't an option right now.
Your building looks good. I live in Hickory NC and I am looking at Eagle also. My building is not going to be as big as yours 22 wd x 25 or 30 lg and 10 high. If I may ask who did your concrete work? Thanks
I've been told not to anchor so close to the edge as it can crack slab. Then other mfg's say building should be same size as slab which means anchoring is maybe 2" from edge. Any observations?
I would need to measure to be sure, but the anchors are probably closer than 2" to the edge of the slab. I have not noticed any cracks. Hope that helps
I wonder if it would make sense to put a pressure treated 2x6 or 2x8 around the perimeter of the slab and setting the building on the lumber.. the same as you would on a house foundation?
@@randomstuffwithjoe The treatment for PT lumber is copper-based. It will corrode the steel if it gets damp. You'd want to put plastic flashing on top of the wood to isolate it from the metal.
I had a 30 x 30 vertical roof with 10-foot walls put up about a year ago with a thick concrete floor..They've been out four times trying to fix leaks in the roof....The concrete guy who'd been in business for over 40 years was a joke,and didn't want to do any cutouts for the doors,actually he didn't want to do much of anything..I had to stay on him to do it..He was too short on the cutouts and the doors would not close right which I had to fix..The concrete slab had several low spots where it had sunk down... You would think that people that do this for a living would know what to do, but they don't have a clue, very disappointed...
@@tyler558806 .....I purchased the building from (Sheds Galore) out of Chiefland Florida..They have tried to be helpful with this..The actual building came out of Georgia from a company called (Real Steel) a team of three Mexican installers showed up and installed the building..I guess some are good and some are bad,evidently I got the bad..I had leaks between the vertical roof seams and ridge cap down the middle which is not good because I have lots of tools and welders in the building..So far they've been out four times and even replaced six panels in the roof,they would give a date that they were going to show up and then never show, not even a phone call from them,this would happen a least three times before actually showing up..This is where I stand now..I have one seam leak on the left side of the roof and I'm getting rain water blowing in down the middle of the roof which leads me to believe they didn't put the ridge cap seals back on properly..I'm sure lots of people don't have problems,but mine's been going on for over a year,needless to say I'm more than discussed...On these types of buildings everything comes down to the installers putting it up..If they're good you probably won't have any problems,if they're bad you probably will..I love having a workshop,but there's been way too many problems with this building...Good communication with everyone is very important..Ask them how are they going to handle any problems with the building from leaks to a bad install like roll-up doors,etc...I hope this helps Tyler..Good luck...
@@tyler558806.... You are really welcome..... I made a mistake on the name of the company, it's called "Real Steel" I changed my written comment over to reflect that...
Thx for sharing. I've seen your other cargo trailer build as well. How's the quality of the building? I just purchased 4 acres and we're building a log house. Our budget on the house may not allow for a matching log garage.. so I'm considering a metal building garage since I can get one for under $10k. The log garage could cost 4x the cost of the metal garage. -Joe
The garage is great for the price. I have seen nicer though. My only complaint is the doors not closing or opening perfectly. I have to fight them up and down. I have reached out to eagle and they are going to send someone out to adjust them.
I went with absolute steel buildings. No cut outs or drop downs for doors in the slab and my man door sits on the slab not on the frame of the building. My anchors use a s bracket off the buildings frame so it flush with the slab and has a lot of grabbing power and it’s like 5-6 inches away from the slabs edge. And how they chiseled your slab away definitely isn’t right, should off used a grinder and made it smooth.
Thank you for sharing. Where are you located in the US and can you provide us with the details for the spray foam you guys did? I’m curious on the price and if you did closed / open cell, thickness, and your opinion on its performance. Thanks!
Carolina Carports said they sell 26 gage usually just in Florida. Mine is 29 gage and certified for 140mph wind and 35 lbs of snow, in Ohio, w the thicker frame I went with.
Going through this now and it seems like the sales rep are very good at selling you a building but don’t know jack sh!t about these small details like this.
Your lucky cause I got nothing but a loss of money dealing with them it was a very bad experience with Viking Steel and Carolina Car Ports never again..
That concrete job looks down right hideous. I have a similar building, 30x30x12 and you and or the concrete guy made that way more complicated then it needed to be. Maybe you live in a different region then I do. I bet those install guys loved you when they showed up and saw that mess lol
@@danielmid6022 I understand that. Went thru similar situation just a couple months ago. Hired a guy to do some grading for a 28x36 metal carport and it must have been your concrete guys brother! lol Enjoy the shop and try to forget about it!
![Framing Walls Inside a Metal Garage [Episode 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KozsAHKr8oY/mqdefault.jpg)
For those of us who may be thinking of having something like this done, thank you for taking the time to post this so that others can learn from your experience and to know what to expect and what questions to ask
The over hang in the front is a great idea . I am for sure going to add that to mine ..watching all these vids on you tube before starting my project is awsome ..I built a shed 20 years ago by trail and error as I was building lol ..you tube takes alot of the guess work and you can pretty much find all the ups and downs before you start ..thanks for the info ..
Thanks for the video. I am in AZ and looking to good a similar style building installed. The insight into the rollup door cutout sizing (if 10’ door add 3” on each side) and using a 2x6 was very helpful. With the dimensions of your building being a 26’x50’, what were the exact dimensions of the slab you had poured? Was it exactly 26’x50’?
Over hang are great ideas. Also can have them make them with a frame out so you dont have the rail on the bottom.
This is gospel for carport style sheds.
1 Lapping the *siding over the bottom rail* is critical. My builder missed that detail and water loops under there to flood the interior. I fixed that with rolls of plastic garden edging tucked under the siding lower edge.
2 I also recommend having the *bottom rail be set in sealer* to keep bugs out.
2a My two cents on a potential weakness with the bottom rail hold down bolts location. They are ridiculously too close to the slab edge < 1-1/2". What's needed is interior tabs that move the mount point away from the perimeter.
3 *Use panel closures* on corners and eves or you'll be be foaming hundreds of gaps as I had to do to keep the wind out.
4 Roll up doors are neat but when closed present a 2 "or more wide open gap at the top. I plan to install the *rubber flapper on top of the doors* instead of the perimeter "whiskers" on most commercial installs.
5 The roof rake on carport sheds is low and debris blows under the ridge vent and into the interior. I will *replace the 10" with 14" wide adding Cobra vent* strips to allow air flow. Cobra vent stacked strips can also be wedged in the long gaps where the wall meets up to the roof on gable ends.
6 *Caulk or seal carefully around the cheapo windows and doors* to keep water out.
7 Think long and hard about insulation and venting of these buildings. Moisture is biggest enemy. Be advised that problems may not show up for years. Enjoy your new building!
This video is the BEST I've watched on installing concrete for a metal carport structure.
Thank you for including for real life prep and outcomes - the good the bad and the ugly!
I'm planning on installing a 24'x 50' with a 15 foot lean in Missouri. I am absolutely dreading working with a site prep/concrete contractor. If it was hard for you to get what you wanted I can only imagine how horrible it will be when I, as a women, dare have an opinion. I can already hear - "well little lady..." Because of you and this video I can at least show the contractors some examples.
The metal building companies on the west coast recommended 6 inch slab extension beyond the building all the way around. I put silicone on the inside Perimeter where the rail meets the concrete and haven't had a leak in 12 years
Any particular kind?
Of silicone
Thank you. I would hope the predrilling should help prevent.
Really good information thank you!
I bought a 24x30, I’m curious what the frame width will be so I’ll know what size the concrete width should be
I need the measurement for the walk in door frame width if you can get it. Not the door its self but the frame of the door that the hinges screw to. If you could get that for me it would help me out a lot
I came here for that same question! My garage requires a stem wall so the concrete will need to have an opening for the walk in door and Carolina Carports are closed until Tuesday due to the holidays.
@@Alliance-ro5gs illgo measure mine for you. Its installed now.
@@Alliance-ro5gs the door frame on my carport garage is 36 inches wide outside edge to outside edge. Its the standard trailer house door that all the carport buildings use.
Looks well thought out .
Long story but I had to build my own Carolina carports shop. I’m not sure I understand how the windows get trimmed out. The heads of the screws that hold the window onto the building cause a gap that the j trim sits against. Can you get me photos of what they did on your windows? They just fill the gap with caulking? Thanks.
There is currently a "riff" between CCI and their installers who are sub-contractors. The subs are picking and choosing the jobs to install. There are many who have paid for their building and have yet to realize their purchase. We are talking months now in many cases. One of my buddies has been waiting for 5 months now for the delivery and install to materialize and still nothing. The subs are only taking the largest jobs. Good luck.
Great video on the little details. What is the height on the side walls and how tall is your loft from the concrete floor to the floor of the loft
Thank you
Hi. 11' side walls and I believe it's about 8' to the loft floor
How's the garage holding up,any water leaks?, thinking about getting one from eagle, thanks
So far so good. Lots of rain to, no leaks. Only issue is the big garage doors are hard to close. They get stuck and start bouncing
Did the builder put some kind of sealant or something in between the base rail and the concrete? I recently had a 24'x32' metal garage built and we had a 2 day rain here and i had slight "weaping" of water into the garage. Hardly anything to really worry about but it was there. Outside the slab in the exact size as the structure and it APPEARS that the slab is also about an inch or so ABOVE grade (sod coming). Could that moisture possibly be the concrete isn't completely cured yet and some moisture from the ground is getting in the concrete and and causing this? The contractor is coming out to seal the inside at the base rails real good today. It's so wet the outside seal isn't an option right now.
Your building looks good. I live in Hickory NC and I am looking at Eagle also. My building is not going to be as big as yours 22 wd x 25 or 30 lg and 10 high. If I may ask who did your concrete work? Thanks
What is the difference in height between the peak of the building and the bottom of the truss?
Whats the colors of your building? I'm fixing to order one thanks!
Did you leave any extra space in your space or does the frame line up flush?
Not sure I understand
I've been told not to anchor so close to the edge as it can crack slab. Then other mfg's say building should be same size as slab which means anchoring is maybe 2" from edge. Any observations?
I would need to measure to be sure, but the anchors are probably closer than 2" to the edge of the slab. I have not noticed any cracks. Hope that helps
I wonder if it would make sense to put a pressure treated 2x6 or 2x8 around the perimeter of the slab and setting the building on the lumber.. the same as you would on a house foundation?
@@randomstuffwithjoe The treatment for PT lumber is copper-based. It will corrode the steel if it gets damp. You'd want to put plastic flashing on top of the wood to isolate it from the metal.
I had a 30 x 30 vertical roof with 10-foot walls put up about a year ago with a thick concrete floor..They've been out four times trying to fix leaks in the roof....The concrete guy who'd been in business for over 40 years was a joke,and didn't want to do any cutouts for the doors,actually he didn't want to do much of anything..I had to stay on him to do it..He was too short on the cutouts and the doors would not close right which I had to fix..The concrete slab had several low spots where it had sunk down... You would think that people that do this for a living would know what to do, but they don't have a clue, very disappointed...
Who did you use for the shed?
@@tyler558806 .....I purchased the building from (Sheds Galore) out of Chiefland Florida..They have tried to be helpful with this..The actual building came out of Georgia from a company called (Real Steel) a team of three Mexican installers showed up and installed the building..I guess some are good and some are bad,evidently I got the bad..I had leaks between the vertical roof seams and ridge cap down the middle which is not good because I have lots of tools and welders in the building..So far they've been out four times and even replaced six panels in the roof,they would give a date that they were going to show up and then never show, not even a phone call from them,this would happen a least three times before actually showing up..This is where I stand now..I have one seam leak on the left side of the roof and I'm getting rain water blowing in down the middle of the roof which leads me to believe they didn't put the ridge cap seals back on properly..I'm sure lots of people don't have problems,but mine's been going on for over a year,needless to say I'm more than discussed...On these types of buildings everything comes down to the installers putting it up..If they're good you probably won't have any problems,if they're bad you probably will..I love having a workshop,but there's been way too many problems with this building...Good communication with everyone is very important..Ask them how are they going to handle any problems with the building from leaks to a bad install like roll-up doors,etc...I hope this helps Tyler..Good luck...
@@just1nicmechanicalwelding82 wow..... That's insane. Thank you for the info seriously
@@tyler558806.... You are really welcome..... I made a mistake on the name of the company, it's called "Real Steel" I changed my written comment over to reflect that...
No help is better than poor help.
Thx for sharing. I've seen your other cargo trailer build as well.
How's the quality of the building? I just purchased 4 acres and we're building a log house. Our budget on the house may not allow for a matching log garage.. so I'm considering a metal building garage since I can get one for under $10k. The log garage could cost 4x the cost of the metal garage. -Joe
The garage is great for the price. I have seen nicer though. My only complaint is the doors not closing or opening perfectly. I have to fight them up and down. I have reached out to eagle and they are going to send someone out to adjust them.
How precise are the dimensions. I have a 24x24 floating slab and is exact and need to know if their garage will work.
I would call them directly on that just to be safe
I went with absolute steel buildings. No cut outs or drop downs for doors in the slab and my man door sits on the slab not on the frame of the building. My anchors use a s bracket off the buildings frame so it flush with the slab and has a lot of grabbing power and it’s like 5-6 inches away from the slabs edge. And how they chiseled your slab away definitely isn’t right, should off used a grinder and made it smooth.
Nice! I'd like to see a video. Thanks for the comment. Please let me know if u post one
Thank you for sharing. Where are you located in the US and can you provide us with the details for the spray foam you guys did? I’m curious on the price and if you did closed / open cell, thickness, and your opinion on its performance. Thanks!
Hi. I just sprayed the foam last week and I took video, I'll be posting it soon with details. I'm in South Texas, about 250 miles south of Houston.
Great video. Did you use 29 or 26 gauge? If you did 29 do you regret not going with 26?
I'm not sure what gauge the panels are.
Carolina Carports said they sell 26 gage usually just in Florida. Mine is 29 gage and certified for 140mph wind and 35 lbs of snow, in
Ohio, w the thicker frame I went with.
how high are your side walls?
11 ft
can you give me the numbers for the garage door opener on ebay can't fine any. thanks
I still haven't installed one. I ordered one but it's not the right kind. Will keep looking
Nice! I'm looking to do something similar... what did the slab cost you and how many PSI is the concrete? Thanks!
8k for the slab. It's 5-6" thick. I don't know the psi
@@danielmid6022 awesome. Thanks for the info!
I did a similar building. 10" footer, 4" inch slab on top. 4,000 psi
Going through this now and it seems like the sales rep are very good at selling you a building but don’t know jack sh!t about these small details like this.
if you fine one let me know. Thanks
Are you going to live in it?
No, not planning on it
Your lucky cause I got nothing but a loss of money dealing with them it was a very bad experience with Viking Steel and Carolina Car Ports never again..
That concrete job looks down right hideous. I have a similar building, 30x30x12 and you and or the concrete guy made that way more complicated then it needed to be. Maybe you live in a different region then I do. I bet those install guys loved you when they showed up and saw that mess lol
Yes it's bad. I cry a little everytime I walk through my garage lol... Oh well, live and learn. Take care
@@danielmid6022 I understand that. Went thru similar situation just a couple months ago. Hired a guy to do some grading for a 28x36 metal carport and it must have been your concrete guys brother! lol Enjoy the shop and try to forget about it!
Buyer beware of Carolina Carports.
What happened??
@@danielmid6022 Corporate difficult. Installers were good. I supervised install. Made a difference.