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Bought an old old 14 foot aluminum fishing boat for a lousy hundred bucks back in 2001. The outboard motor was an ancient(built in 1958) 12 h.p twin cylinder 2 stroke that had been lying on its side in the guys back yard for years. I dragged it all home, mounted the outboard back on the transom and hooked up a fuel supply and a garden hose to it for coolant. It literally started up on the 2nd pull and ran perfectly. I changed out the lower drive gear oil and hit the lake. In the last 20 years this old boat has been ran up and down the water for hundreds of hours at wide open throttle, and besides just very basic maitenance i've literally done nothing to this old dinosaur. Who would have thought a hundred bucks and a couple hours of work could have provided 20 years of enjoyment. They definitely do not make them like this old antique anymore!
Look at the Rudezon. Dude took a 3.6l Evinrude 300XP and shoved it in a Volvo Amazon. It runs better than any Volvo I've turned a wrench on. (And I say that being a fan of the Volvo modular engine)
I rebuilt my force 150 hp two years ago, I was able to find parts, cost me $1000. The alternative to repower was $12,000. They are basic motors easy to work on, I think I made the right choice. I owned the boat over twenty years, lots of good times with the family.
Yep. Had a 98 Force 120 and it had the typical carb issues and fuel starvation problems. Made by Mercury, but would never buy another boat with one on it. Money pit and left me stranded several times on the lake.
Wrong, New Boat. Forget the boat show price. Get the full list price, deduct most add ons then you are starting to get a typical deal when you pay 80% of the full price. Used boat, I always got for less than what Nada(for boats and outboards says) and far lower for motors used in saltwater. Used (not running): if you are not a mechanic, this route is not for you.
I have a 77' searay ,20' with a OMC electric shift outdrive bolted to a Ford 351. I'm pushing over 1,100 hrs. No problems. I was taught early on how to operate this gem.
I bought a boat with a soft transom - ended up being a very detailed, but enjoyable project for me. It is a little 16' fish and ski, open bow, with a 75hp mercury 2 stroke outboard, on a trailer. I paid $200 for the whole thing, now it has new everything except for an engine rebuild. and I was just offered $6k for it. I am only $2k into it. If you are inclined and have the space, I recommend a project.
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just bought my first boat as a repair project... I hit 3 of these lmao! but so far the project is coming along nicely, just got all the electrical work done and got the starter working, engine turns over smoothly. Replacing the flooring and refurbishing the sterndrive. Hardest part to find is that clutch pack for the SelecTrim. Overall its a fun project and everything about the sitting, OMC drives, and rotten wood flooring/stringers is all spot on!
I can add a couple big ones... Anything over accessorized, new or old. New boats with more amenities than space end up sacrificing any access to service the normal systems in the boat, and older boats are typically trying to distract from larger problems elsewhere in the vessel. BEWARE OF LOADS OF NEW TUNE UP PARTS with OLD EXHAUST MANIFOLDS! This usually is a sign that the engine(s) may have uneven compression from rusty valves or ingestion of water from porous manifolds and a concerted effort has been made to try and make it run smooth without actually repairing anything. On anything with an I/O, check the overall shape of the rubber parts in the transom, particularly paying attention to the hardware and it's condition and orientation. This can be an indication of the quality of the workmanship you can expect elsewhere in the boat. I'm a mechanic at a marina on the Hudson River and I have a propensity for fixing the biggest pieces of crap that find their way to us, which includes Force outboards, OMC drives, OMC Cobra, Volvo XDP (I actually have all the shimming and assembly tools to build those drives), and WORSE (if you can imagine anything worse...). This is the air I breathe and the water I swim in- my bread and butter is being the guy who fixes this trash for people who just can't seem to learn to avoid this stuff. Unfortunately, I am also burdened with a conscience, so I end up losing money on it most of the time... aaaaaaand while it's not my marina, and not my money, it's still my problem...
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 great user name, dude... seriously, that's awesome. I'm not saying that they're not simple or anything like that, but they're primitive and noisy, lack oil injection, and the early ones were basically just old Chrysler outboard motors with new decals. Plus the way the ignition wiring and flimsy linkages were... just not worthy of the hours they consume and terrible aftermarket parts IF you can find them... I remember the TV commercials for them... "Force by Mercury"- old Chrysler powerhead over a Mercury gearbox. Every cheap 19' Bayliner Capri from the late 80s and early 90s had either a 90 or 125 Force...
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon I'll be in touch- I'd love to do a podcast with you, but I need a new mic and I'd like to chat with you beforehand to get an idea of what to be prepared for. I've been at my current marina for 15 years, but I've been a mechanic for close to 30 years and a boater in my area for my entire life. This could be a load of fun- you'll hear from me soon!
One morning I was driving to work Culver City CA. And seen a boat parked with a for sale sign. It looks older but in excellent shape. It had a v8 Chevy engine with everything in good condition. The cabin was perfect from the inside like if the boat was kept in a storage for many years. Silverline 1982 even came with fishing rods. So I manage to get the funds and payed the guy $4,500. He was asking $5,500. He took my offer with a blink of an eye. I was asking him how many times he has went fishing on it and years of owing the boat. He said all man. I’ve been to Catalina island , fish all over Santa Monica etc. Had good times, I hate to let it go but it’s time to say good bye. It was the most exited moment for me. I was having this image of me with some friends or family members fishing riding down the coast etc. I had no experience of boating so I felt in to the trap. He gave me the title but it wasn’t under his name. He said something about it’s under his friend etc. he said no worries man. If there’s any problems just call me. I’ll go with you to the dmv. I was so blind that I didn’t put to much attention to that. I after some weeks I decided to take the forms to the dmv and I couldn’t Register because some forms were missing with signatures. They needed to inspect the boat to see the vin plate and make sure it was good. They said this vessel is out of the system. Unfortunately the boat was missing the vin plate so I couldn’t register under my name. I called the guy and as you can imagine, no answer. I was scammed, the boat wasn’t stolen but didn’t have a vin plate and needed more forms. It was a total nightmare, so I put all the dmv crap on hold and decided to do do a sea try out. Lol. I manage to dock the boat by seeing others, I manage to drive off , as i was getting Far out by queen Mary ship it turn off , I was super exited and as I tried starting the boat, it wouldn’t start due to over heating. I was drifting away with the current, no radio vhf, no experience on boating , I had no clue on what to do, I was super nervous, I told god if he was to help me go back to land , I’ll do some good deeds. Lol. So I tried starting the motor after 20 min and bammm. I shift to drive straight to the docks and never look back. I end selling it to the carpet cleaner guy. $1,500 bucks as is. With the fony tittle , but I did explain the problems I was having. I end up letting years go bye and got my auxiliary certificate on safety boat rules etc. I now own a 2001 21ft trophy with 150 Mercury outboard. I will never forget my first too too. After 15 years I was driving by a street and seen a brown boat that said silverline, in terrible condition with trash and junk inside, I got off and noticed it was missing the vin plate, it was definitely my first boat. It hurt me to see it that way , my kids use to play inside that nice classic silverline. ADVICE never buy a boat without making sure the title and vessel have matching numbers, also ask for a 30 min minimum sea trial, to make sure it works as they say. And ask for ID. 🤷🏻♂️ I was 25 year old, “blinded by the light”.
1990 Alumacraft (freshwater) with a Cobra outdrive. Still works perfect. Late 90's Force 5 hp kicker. Have done no maintenance, starts first pull every spring.
I just got a tri hull with a 1987 90 evinrude that hadn’t ran in year, I launched it and it took a while to start, when it started it didn’t want to idle at low rpm and had a bad holeshot, I replaced the spark plug wires and now she has a crazy hole shot and runs like a champ
Thanks for the info! You are spot on. One thing I did was sniff the bilge, a sweet and pungent smell, start looking for rot. Take a wrench or screwdriver and check fasteners going into bulkheads low in the bilge. And definitely the bolts holding motor mounts to stringers. The fiberglass might be good but the wood inside is mush.
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon na I run Laidbackkeywest.com which is a charter boat down in Key West and have a 2003 250dc worldcat that looks new because it is well maintained. I just know what it takes.
I would say your comment is accurate. Boats arent cheap to begin with. Then if you run to the dealer every time something goes wrong, that cost goes up and up. Shop around for parts, watch a few how to vids and you are set.
It’s so hard on boats to sit unused for 3-4 years, 1995 Celebrity 240 CC Status with 600 hours on it, Labor of love to keep my late brother’s boat that sat for 3 years fully covered in his yard until he passed away a year ago. I’ve now had to replace every component. Fuel pump/impeller system, starter, alternator, silent choice Solenoids, dual batteries, sump pump, bellows, rebuilt lower unit, and even the carburetor could not be rebuilt had to do new. Had bent parts internally. Not to mention trailer, new tires, hub bearings , brakes, and replaced all marine carpet wrapped wooden trailer bunks. I was charged $680 by a marina to pump the 3-4 year old gas out with disposal fee. 50 gallons. Next must rebuild sundeck/engine cover. Wood/hinge rotted, piano hinged. Then, after probably having $6,000 more into it than it’s worth (or more) I’ll have a good boat. All of the pain has been the time involved and many lost weekends.
I bought a classic boat that has been sitting for years, soft floor, soft transom too. The guy said it had a new motor too, well the motor was that new it was still in boxes ready to be assembled. After putting some work into it I know exactly how solid the stringers are, how solid the floor is and how good the transom are. It is going to last for many years to come but not everyone wants to spend money to enjoy them.
I have had a OMC Cobra bought new in 1991. We ran it in FRESH water. I have not had any mechanical problems for 31 years. Volvo bought the rights to the Cobra and they still make it . It is called Volvo Penta SX. Parts are still available for the OMC Cobra.
I had an OMC Cobra drive on the back of my last boat, 1995 VIP 19ft. 4.3 v6 and that drive. CONSTANT shifting problems. Replace the transom shift cable twice to no avail. We sold it before it ripped the shift dogs off in the lower unit. New owner said he knew how to fix it. I said good luck as he drove away....Good boat though.
A fresh water sunken boat is not a complete night mare. A friend specifically looks for these at salvage auctions. Puts about 80 hours in to drying the boats, under tents and dehumidifiers, and has had great success. Never consider A salt water sunk boat. I agree with everything else said.
Also, I disagree with his assessment that boats that have soft spots on the deck are a no go, thats just not true. I had a 24ft 1977 auqusport, that are known for having soft spots. My father and I bought it in 1997, did have a few soft spots on the deck, we went out many times in that boat over 3 years, in some very rough sea conditions. Never had a problem, boat was solid as a rock.
@@swangtv5951 I don't live in the U.S. anymore, thanks for the offer, though. Thats one thing I miss about living in the states, especially Florida, cheap boats
WOW !! I was thinking here we go some yahoo bashing on a boat he bought BUT I am very surprised ! I am a 35 plus year Marine Technician and I’m certified in Mercury O/B and stern drive. Also Yamaha. I work on all makes of boats and pwc tho. With that said I will attest that you really did your homework on this. You were extremely accurate and informative with your video. I will agree with you on every single subject you spoke on. Oh and some of the Seadoo boats ( like the one you had pictured) have Mercury V6 powerheads in them. I think it’s a 240 on some. All you said applies to it to !! PLEASE PEOPLE QUIT LETTING YOUR BOAT SIT FOR YEARS WITHOUT RUNNING IT !! Thank You !!
I dunno. I bought a 20' 87 SeaRay inboard that sat for 15 years, knowing it was going to need a floor. I spent 5 weeks gutting it, replaced every piece of wood, put 2 coats of marine epoxy on all sides, all new upholstery, went through the engine, replaced the bellows on the out drive and put on a new prop. So I'm in it $2500 total and it's basically a new boat. Probably going to paint & gel coat next year. I do everything myself so that saves a ton on cost, but I didn't think it was too bad.
I have a 1983 force 85hp, I personally have used it in salt water for 32 years with no problem other than general maintenance. My mechanic loves it because there is no electronic junk, basic two stroke. They are good motors with all due respect.
Had a 84 125 Force myself. It was a very decent motor. Ran it all over the cold saltwater of Alaska for many years. Maintenance was about $10 a year for a quart of gear lube and 4 of those silly surface gap spark plugs. My power tilt/trim even still worked when I sold it!
For some reason, the 85/90 Chrysler/ Force were probably the most reliable of this make. They were far less capable than the Mercs/Yamaha/OMC but okay.
I have been looking into a beautiful 2007 Regal 2565 Window Express. During my research, I came across your video. This boat, no doubt, has an XDP sterndrive. I passed on this boat immediately. Thank you so much for your great information.
I own a 40 year old classic Boston Whaler that still looks and performs amazingly. There is a cult like attraction to these boats, so much so that owners spend thousands on restoration that include new outboards or paint jobs. Plus, there is a never ending supply of buyers when you want to sell one. Simply great old boats...
@@hookahb8299 Get a marine survey before you buy. Don’t get I-want-ititis. It can be blinding! Don’t start justifying. Yes, it can be fixed but get an idea for cost before you commit. How much are you really qualified to do yourself? Boats are not like Real estate. 90% never get their money back if they sell, but most do it for satisfaction. And there’s nothing like waking up to a new view in the morning enjoying the fruits of your labor.
@@SkypowerwithKarl More like 100% never get their money back, unless you own some collector's item. If you thought new car value depreciates fast, buy a boat.
Got a free Glassmaster with soft floors, & an omc drive that hadn't been run for years. It's still a yard ornament, but I'm working on rebuilding (and repowering) it to turn it into a big deep V bass boat.
I'm a retired firefighter and I did boat repair as a side business and now I do easy stuff. I agree 100% with everything you say here. I've had way too many customers bring in a boat they just bought with one or more of these issues and I had to turn them away. If only people would call me before they buy a boat. I've gone out to meet buyers at sellers house and looked over boats. I can't believe how many stringer drives were out there. Had one seller get angry at me and was acting like he was gonna punch me because I walked up to the buyer and said dont buy this it's a stringer. Force outboards... ehhhh I do agree don't buy those but I have customers with those and I can still get aftermarket parts and they're easy to work on. Even had to tell a customer not to buy a boat with that electric shift, I hadn't seen one until then. Evinrude I think it was. Had a rotten transom too. I still have my old 1988 Volvo with a stroker and 290 DP. Overhauled the drive 15 years ago it's on its 4th motor. Still a good clean boat, But I would not recommend anyone buy those old 290s or 280s. Good channel glad I found it!
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon Probably should mention never buy Yamaha sterndrives. i actually had 2 customers with these. I was able to get parts from Nelson's Marine in PCB but he is getting low on parts now. I would guess there aren't many left, but like those stringer drives they keep popping up and get sold to unsuspecting buyers.
I bought a used 1993 20 ft Bayliner Classic Cuddy in 2005 for $8,000 with a 130 HP inboard/outboard stern drive mercruiser and it was the best buy in my life! The total weight of the boat, trailer and gear is only 3200 lbs so it is easily towable with my Chevy Astro Van. Cabin is small but it has a potty toilet and I can sleep on the water for three days and two glorious nights. I take a hot shower on top of the closed bow using a 2 gallon bucket and battery powered shower pump. In 19 years that I own it, I only have 2 major work on the outboard costing $1000 and $3500 so my repair expenses were less than $250 per year. The inboard is a GM 4 cyl engine which is bullet proof as long as you maintain it like an automotive car engine. Top speed is 36 MPH and when I anchor in the middle of the lake....I laugh at the other boats going in because most fish bite 1 to 2 hours after sunset and 1 to 2 hours before sunrise. Sleeping on the water is a thrill that I do for at least 8 to 10 times a year.
$1000 and $3500 sounds like an expensive motor to me. Also it’s a Bayliner and that means non-compatible with Saltwater. Btw, Sterndrives are also not compatible with Saltwater. The Saltwater crowd would sneer and the fact of a Bayliner and also a sterndrive
What I find is a number of boat owners that don't believe a boat needs routine maintenance such as their home or their auto. They drag their boat out of the backyard or the local storage facility, pull the cover off maybe change the oil, put gas in it a go for a ride. Boats, like automobiles and homes need basic maintenance. Oil changes, tuneups, cables, pulleys and levers checked. An occasional wash-down and maybe a wax and polish. And one other thing that is a must in many locations is you have to winterize before putting it away for the winter. Do the basics and you'll receive many seasons of enjoyable boating on the water. Those that say the best days they had with their boat was the day they bought it and the day they sold it or those that say a boat is just a hole in the water in which you throw money into are people we don't need in the boating community and I believe we are happier without them
A friend of mine bought a omc here in Holland. First time on the water we had fun for about 400 meters en a loud bang en no more going forward. I did rebuild the Sterndrive. The second time on the water we had fun . But then we noticed we made al lot of water. The rubber a the back was leaking. Replaced that too. The trailer also needed new bearing so we did that too The third run after 3 miles no more gasoline was coming to the engine. Rebuild the caburator. The next 3 times it was running good en then suddenly got overheated. I did a compression test earlier on it but my friend didnt want to believe the outcome .... I said it needed a rebuild . It stayed about 4 Years in the garage en he had mechanics working on it.... Now he sold the damn thing because it still didnt run. .. But i had a lot of fun with that boat learnt a lot of it so i never going to buy me a boat whahhah.
Best story I heard was a master wood boat builder who worked at Van Dam Boats in Michigan. He restored an old Matthews Wood yacht which he got for FREE. His comment at some point into the project was " I paid to much". Wonder how it turned out.
Why I love my nitro ski and fish 18 foot 150hp best of both worlds. I don't get jealous of other people's boats. I think my kids will grow to love boating and fishing because of this boat
I just purchased a good looking older boat with an OMC stringer sterndrive. The host of this video is 100% right, avoid them like the plague. The lower unit sheared off, the old threads pulled out and I lost it in the water. You cannot find the parts ANYWHERE. Now I need to do an out board bracket conversion
I've had the 800 stern drive for like 20 years now. I haven't used it much in the last ten but in the first 5 years I had to put a new shift dog in it because it wouldn't stay in reverse and the spine shaft that comes from the 90° gearbox to the lower unit stripped while pulling up a skier. Ive had water issues getting in and oil leaks.. had the stupid thing appart several times I had it memorized how it all goes back together. They work good most of the time but you better make sure you check the oils in the three locations before each use. Oh and I think it locked up on me a couple times too because it leaked all the oil out.. yeah.. gotta check them frequently. I'm very mechanically inclined so that's the only reason it's alive today. Just used it today actually 😄 no problems. 🤞
I picked up a 18’ Bayliner outboard with trailer and a force 135 for $500 I pulled the engine right off and installed my 200HP Yamaha rebuilt by myself on it and am going to sew up new interior real soon here and plan to be fishing and wakeboarding come spring. Oh I sold the force 135 that ran fine but needed a water pump installed for $800. Thinking the bayliner should run 60 easy with the ski prop. Going to be a fun ride.
I would check the horsepower rating. 200hp sounds like a lot for an 18’ boat. I have a ‘98 Glastron GS 180, and it’s max horsepower rating is 150, which exactly what I have on it. Does 54 mph with a Merc 4-stroke.
Great call on having a sunken boat at the top of your list. The only things that are engineered to be fully submerged on boats are the outdrive and the sump pumps. Even the hull can be permanently damaged it has left under water for very long.
I bought a carver mariner 79 my hubby and I are 2nd owners of it .. we just need to fix up some holes and new engines not too bad for $500!!! Why not a bedroom a separate bathroom shower living room kitchen three decks it's amazing
I have an old 88 boat with an OMC drive, and I was initially very concerned about not finding parts anymore. However I've since found Sierra and others making parts for OMC drives readily available.
I have a 2850 contessa, it was fairly cheap($6000) I have spent 3 summers camping and fishing, swimming etc. Great layout, Volvo penta drive, can still tow it! I'm sure it's not the best but I don't see how it could be the worst, rock what you got!
It's large! When you step up to a 10ft beam the boat gets big, but all the same things apply, I stayed in contact with the seller and asked him lots of questions since I got it in the fall and didn't take it out for 6 months. One dumb thing I did was re-seal the plexi glass windows with an oil based caulking which caused them to crack. Pull the oil drain on the outdrive to see if it's got water in it.
@@RockThisTown2000 seller sounds like a terrible salesperson! Could have atleast said the boat hit the seabed on couple occasions and resurfaced to get the Boat guy excited 😅
cant say anything good about the force motor on it, mabey it ran decent through the 90s. i repowered it with a yamaha for a few years then got a carolina skiff and swaped the motor on it. the yamaha has been running fine now for almost 15 years.
I’m still riding in a 1995 Stratos with an OMC Evinrude and just put a new lower unit on the engine. SEI got me hooked up for $1200 completely brand new and it’s a direct replacement/bolt on for any OMC motor.
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon I own a boat repair business, SEI is who I purchase all of my replacement lower units from. Great customer service, great products, and never have I had a SEI unit come back to me for failure. Plus their warranty is awesome.
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon I have ran my SEI lower now for 2 years and I run my Stratos 2 times a week every week of the year so it’s gets ran consistently. Have had zero issues to date! Just make sure your changing you lower unit oil in a timely fashion.
Yeah I’ve heard the cobra is still easy to find parts. It’s the King Cobra which wasn’t produced long as it is and there is no aftermarket parts being manufactured.
As a retired Master tech this guy is spot on avoid these boats like the plague ! Unless You get them for peanuts ! Or paid to take them away and know what You are getting into!
Many years ago a 100ft yacht sank in Long Island sound, spent about a month on the bottom. The boat was raised and with a very coordinated plan had the engines flushed and running within 24 hours. I'm sure they had a large crew flushing and preserving the whole boat. The hull topsides lost all the faring putty and the wood decks were full of worm holes. I saw the boat in Florida. It was named " PERSISTENCE "
This salvage took place +- 40 years ago. It was docked in Fort Lauderdale or Miami and I overheard a conversation between the owner on the boat and someone on the dock. That is how I heard the details. I believe the boat was bought from the insurance company while still on the bottom.The boat was quite new when it sank due to a fire burning through the exhaust system and flooding it. Most original owners would not want the boat back after such an incident. I believe I read about the sinking in Soundings but saw the salvaged and running boat in Florida. Hope you find out what happened to "PERSISTENCE " Don't know it's name before it sank in L I Sound.
@@zacharytodd2219 How accurate was my recollection of the incident? What make of boat is it? Do you know the original and current name of the yacht. What is its exact length?
My bot hasn’t rn for 4 years and the only problem with it when I bought it was that the starter no the carburetor were broken. I bought the bot for 500. Now it’s running perfectly
I bought a 1989 sea ray 220 for $670. The guy told me “he couldn’t get it to crank.” I could tell it hadn’t run in years and that it needed some time and money into. So far I’m loving my project (that I planned for), but also, it’s true, don’t buy a boat that hasn’t run in years unless you’re ready to do the necessary (and sometimes surprising) work that YOU WILL have to do
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon well for starters , the motor , which appeared to be in excellent condition considering it’s age, was completely seized! 2. The outdrive had tons of corrosion inside once it was removed. 3. There were loose wires all behind the dash (another mess to figure out). It’s nothing short of a project. I figure it’ll take me a year at the rate I’m going, but once I finish , I’ll be sure to upload a restoration video .
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon I haven’t even investigated the wires to see how bad it is. I just know I’ll need a manual . I hope when I do get to it, I don’t have to re run things. You’re right, it would be a pain . I’ll subscribe and try to remember to come back to your page when everything is done .
I clicked on this hoping not to hear "Never, under any circumstance, buy a 14 foot Carolina Skiff " 😀 just got mine not too long ago with no research or knowledge. Just a good deal.
In many of these cases, its less about what not to buy and more about what not to pay for. If a boat's structurally sound but has been sunk... but recovered quickly... well buy it expecting you are going to be replacing the engine and electrical systems and doing a massive clean on it, regardless of the condition it looks to be in. for example 18' aluminum john-boat got sunk at dock after getting swamped and sunk in weather. Ok, so buy it for the hull, expect the engine to be worthless, battery to be gone, if its a lithium battery... expect it to explode so you WANT it gone... and other basic electrical systems, expect to replace that. Since a john boat has very limited electrical systems usually you are often fine to buy the hull, as if you are buying hull only. there are some people who are really skilled at rebuilding boats, can take 100's of hours or even 1000's of hours and strip down and rebuild a boat, re-fiberglass, pull out old wood and replace... Unless you yourself are trained and have done this before... don't expect to buy it and say you'll do it on your own.
I’ve had a force engine with minimal issues for 7 years now never left me stranded it’s bad on fuel and the power trim stinks but that 85hp has great compression fog it every winter change the gear oil before winter and put new plugs simple engines
I gots an old glastron tri hull fiberglass boat and after I peeled the floor up, it was nothing but soaking wet pieces of rigid foam that was unsalvageable. Seen one at the boat ramp yesterday. Nice to see one that's been well maintained.
The top of the list for worst boats is a Bayliner also when you are out on the water and see a Bayliner stay away from it because most people who own a Bayliner they are about as good at running a boat as the quality of a Bayliner
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon I have a 58ft Carolina custom sportfishing boat built by Hunley Sullivan in South Florida is where it's docked at. I have had or been around boats my whole life and anyone who has been in the boating world all know 1 thing and that is if you see a Bayliner stay away from that boat just like most people who have jet skis they are like flies at a BBQ and no I would never get anywhere near a Bayliner
@@airgliderz apparently you don't know a damn thing about boats and are the types of people who are a prime example of what to stay far away from on the water
@@brandonescoe9980 so I see your an armchair expert boater. Go back to your recliner boat with a pile of boating magazines next to it dreaming about owning a real boat for real men not little girls play boats you desire.
Excellent sound Advice ! i’ve bought and sold over 17 or 18 boats over my life so far Deisel ,Gas ,old and new and i learned that the hard way ! Unfortunately a couple of times in my defense i bought my first Boat , before i had a car i had to borrow my Dads StationWagon to pull it home ! BTW i grew up InFlorida and as a Teenager i was doing Fiberglass and GelCoat repairs
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon No not for free. I watch the first video for free. Then I charge 25.00 to watch each additional Video. How many of your videos do you want me to watch?
I really enjoy your Programs ! I just watched your program on Boats not to buy, I learned a lot, good info. We are not planning on buying another boat. We bought our Bayliner in 1986, in Reno, NV, and we love it. We have always kept it inside with a cover on it, it has a Force 125 engine. I have drained the oil from the bottom end every two years. Three years ago I installed a new water pump, I took the old parts to a boat engine mechanic, he said that all the parts I brought him didn't need to be replaced ? That was the first time the water pump had been replaced ? We run 145 octane fuel (with the proper amount of oil) The engine runs great ! I have had to replace all the switches. Oh yes I have had a couple problems with the engine, there was sum small plastic pieces I found down inside, ? it went to a part of the timing ?, I glued it back together, and then took a piece of 3/4" X 4"X10" brass and cut off the part we need, it is very small, with holes drilled and taped. The other problem was mud dabbers and yellow jackets making nests inside the engine compartment and the out drive. When we are done running our boat I always run the engine out of fuel. I shoot some Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder. Our lake is at 5,000 feet (Topaz Lake, Nevada) 16 miles from home. When people see our boat (Middle Age Crazy) they can't believe it is old as it is. My wife and I are 77 years young, and I still use my Air-Chair. Thank You for the time you take to make all your Programs, you are to be commended ! I enjoy them very much.
Want to rethink 145 octane fuel which is unavailable as gasoline unless you have access to WWII fighter plane fuel. Most current racing fuels top out at about 116 octane. Using much more octane then the engine needs makes for hard starting and sluggish response. Natural gas (CNG) is about 130 octane but how do you mix in oil!! Oh and at an altitude of 5000 ft with less barometric pressure you need less octane. Enjoy your boat.
@@williambikash6645 My kids buy racing fuel by the 55 gallon drum, years ago it use to be around 145 ? I'm not sure what it is now, Our boat really runs good, friend that really knows oil and fuel tested our fuel and gave us our mixtur. the oil mix is written down, I don't remember it off hand. The oil is Quick silver Advanced premium synthetic blend 2-stroke marine oil. We have no trouble starting the engine, but it is a little slow out of the hole, it dosen't take much then it's gone. but like you said it is a little under powered. Just one Air-Chair..
John Octane is a measurement of a fuel to resist detonation, it is not a measurement of the energy in a fuel. Very high octane is used in highly modified engine with high compression or supercharged or high cylinder temperatures as in a air cooled engine. Racing fuels are sometimes formulated to have higher energy but octane is not that measurement. If your engine responds to racing fuel in a positive way then your carburation and or timing is out of adjustment. The 2 cycle oil mixture doesn't .need to change much from what is recommended from the manufacturer regardless of the fuel octane. The oil is for lubrication. Your engine should run best on 89-93 octane fuel with no ETHANOL High altitude actually lowers octane requirement. What is an air chair?
@@williambikash6645 Thank you so much for the information, I you have changed my mind on fuels. I have never touched the timing or the carburetors. All our kid are grown, all our grand children are grown, They all have there RV's thangs, none of them have boats, just race cars, so my wife and go cruising with our older friends. Thanks Again
No exaggeration video. No sugar coating. In fact, time you buy marine plywood, and suitable wood for boat building to do repairs, you will be regretting the deal even before you buy marine grade fiberglas. I'd like to add, just as with cars and houses, beware of fresh paint covering up cheap cobbled short lived repairs. I know it is criminal for anyone to jury rig a boat, knowing it might come apart or leave the new buyer and family stranded 20 miles out in the ocean. But those heartless people exist. So beware.
My neighbour gave me a boat on a trailer that wasnt used in 12 years. I was newly retired and put new axle and springs and wheels on trailer. VHF worked and I gave it a new antenna.I put in new transom,floor,and stringers.Now I know exactly what I have.I found year 2000 50horse Honda 4 stroke and a 2005 9.9 honda kicker, and am now back into salmon fishing here in western Canada.Lots of fiberglass vids. on RUclips!
My first boat was an I/O never again, the maintenance was insane, especially since i used it in the sea water, sold it and upgraded to an older way older 1985 38’ Silverton convertible with the inboard drive shaft, that bigger boat was cheaper to maintain mechanically than 1999 29’ I/O, and built solid
This seems more for the current "call a plumber to change a $7 toilet flapper in 2 minutes" set. Still, it might give the first-timer some stuff to ponder, so thumbs up.
My biggest tip for new boat buyers is to first ensure they have one of the following: 1. Moderate money for parts and the tools/aptitude to learn DIY maintenance and repair Or 2. LOTs of money to throw at the local Marina if you can't do it yourself
A lot of this would seem like common knowledge, but then I can think of someone I know who has a boat that has sunk, has a weak transom, floor, etc, and looked at me and asked if I wanted to buy it, and i looked at them like they were an alien. I remember stating, no i do not want a floating project that will cost me $10k+. I am a cheap bastard, but even I can see that would be a bad deal. It's not like a car you can send to recycling and still get a few $$$ from
Nice review. I can add Yamaha 4 stroke 6 cylinder outboards from around 2003 to 2006. They had some problems with the exhaust metal pitting and causing intrusion of water into the powerhead. I just replaced the midsections on my 2 x 225s. Never a recall or service bulletin. Engines were rinsed religiously after each use and only 700 hrs on these 2003 babies. Also just bought a 2017 Robalo 207 dual console and after 3 yrs, the upholstery is shot and needs to be replaced. This is a known problem with the company who manufactured the defective material and Robalo has now changed to Naugahyde. Robalo says it is out of warranty but will be willing to replace the known defective material at their cost of $2800 plus several hundred dollars shipping and installation of approximately $1000.
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon Thanks for the reply BBSW. I certainly have gotten my money's worth out of these engines and the repair was reasonably priced. I was just warning people about not judging a book by it's cover. Externally the engines looked fine as does my 265 Edgewater CC. If I were to sell the boat, the buyer might look at it and think this is a beautiful boat with relatively low hours on Yamaha 4 stroke engines and then have to pay for one or two new powerheads shortly after the purchase. I think Joe Joe is the one who needs to get a grip! Keep up the good work!!
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon I have an unnatural love for that boat! Looked at new boats like the Everglades, Boston Whaler, Robalo, etc and cannot get excited about buying a new boat. The Edgewater has everything I could want in a 26 footer. Seems like a much bigger boat due to the 9'8" beam. I have had to do some maintenance like replacing bait well pumps, steering leaks, tilt mechanism etc but it is an amazing boat. The twin Yamaha 225s push it nicely and i get 2 mpg at cruising if it is not too rough. I use it out in the Gulf of Mexico. I could go on and on!
All Of this us 100% correct. I know. I was given a boat. I lifted up the cover on the boat in the driveway. It was full of water. Rain and snow water. That had frozen and thawed several times over 6 years. So I was young healthy an extremely competent Engineer. So I took it. Drained the water. Changed the tires bearing and races. Towed it home. Spent 3 months exposing all the wood that had wet rot. To include the transom. Ground out the rotted fiberglass. Then cut and prepped the wood. White oak. Including the transom. Sealed and put a few coatings of Minwax Hellmsman Spar Varnish. Then installed it into the frame, transom and console. Then applied the fiberglass 10 coates. Paint and registration. Then rebuilt the old Johnson. Took it out on the water. Had an offer for three times what I had in it. Sold it. Would I do it again. Heck no. I got an incredible education though That served me well in building my Mahogany inboard. Again the first day on the water. The bling was too much for a gentleman who opened his wallet wide. I learned a lot from that to. But I'll never touch an old boat again in my life. I would rather spend my free time on the water.
Informative video, but in some cases I would disagree greatly. There are many like myself who love to work on older or vintage boats that have not ran in ages. I enjoy doing fiberglass and jellcoat repairs on damaged boats as well as getting my hands greasy rebuilding older vintage Johnson Evinrude motors. I would gladly take on most of these boats and restore them.
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon my first boat that I am restoring is a 1955, 12 foot Larson Crestliner Commando, with a 1955 Johnson Seahorse, 25 hp outboard. I remade a new oak wood transom. And learned how to steam and bend 15ft oak for the gunnels. And I polished the aluminum hull to a mirror finish. I'm still not done because I want it done right. The second boat is a 1960 fiberglass boat (Can't find the hull ID) with a Johnson 1980 40hp outboard; where the previous owner docked his boat on the sandy beach the rubbed off the gelcoat and 90 % of the fiberglass that caused flooding. The boat is a total loss, but I saw it potential and started the glass work last summer, and this year I am ripping out the decking and replacing everything. This fall and winter I have e been researching and studying different techniques on how to achieve this task. For the new person like I was at one time. Do your research. I can't express that enough. If you are going to do glass work, know the difference types of resins and how they cure. For example polyester resin cures only when you put on the gel coat. Then theirs the Catalyst or hardeners Poly uses M.E.K. OR M.E.K.-A. know everything you can about the boat you are wanting. Know the language used. I can tell you from experience, if you think you know enough about the boat you're getting into. Research more. I have spent about a good 6 months studying and learning about a 1985, Johnson seahorse, V6, 150hp motor. And I feel like I still don't have enough information and tips and tricks to deal with it. But I love the challenge and it keeps me away from the wife. Lol In a later post, I'll site all my sources of information and how to's for your viewers.
Bayliner in the 80’s took a bad rap because of how they were packaged. Many were underpowered and they were not premier boats. A lot of new boaters would buy and complain about issues due to underpower or misuse.
I bought a Craigcat. 33 hours on the engine (Evinrude 30HP e-tec) it wont start. Mechanic says it'll cost me $8000.00 to repair it. Top of the line Craigcat, a piece of junk in my backyard. Didn't even burn one tank of oil through it. That hurts.
My brother in law just gave me a 1985 Malibu skier that I’ve been in many times over 20 years he s taken excellent care of the boat and it’s still in great condition. How can I be so lucky? Well he’s a smart meticulous guy and he knows what happens when these things sit around and he’s at a place in life where he doesn’t get out as much as he’d like and he knows I live 20 minutes from the lake. A great brother in law no doubt, so anyway though I’ve been skiing and wakeboarding and driving boats this boat in particular most of my life (48) I’ve never owned a boat of my own so I’m now in a learning curve and I felt it good on the first outing as I went out for the first time lake was way to choppy with probably 4 or 5 foot rollers and I was by the dock I hit reverse to straighten up and bam I snapped off my swim deck in the chop and now I can’t find the swim deck bracket anywhere on line it has a picture of a dolphin on it and research says they arent in business any more. Any advice on this?
All aluminum boat [ ex: G3 ] has minimal soft parts to deteriorate. Will probably out live the owner. Recent trips to various water rec areas [INCLUDING Galveston Bay show predominance of Yamaha engine of choice. Commercial owners cite good reliability as main reason to buy.
Stay away from all plywood core boats. If you're boat shopping stick with something 1998 or later. You might think it's old and they don't make em like they used to. Totally wrong. Most boat manufacturers went away with plywood and balsa with much better material in the late 90's. Once plywood starts rotting its a headache and will discourage boating. If you're a boating buff that has experience teplacing rot then go ahead. Worry free boaters stay away from plywood. And stay away from boats that were layed up using spray chop strand layers. You want hand layed or vacuum infused fiberglass. Another thing is wiring and plumbing. It should all be nice and neat. If it looks like a bird nest behind panels run away. The fuel tank should be easy to get out or accessible. Should be of quality marine aluminum. should any problems occur. Guy is spot on about omc stringers. Those things strip drive splines without warning and they are inefficient junk. Cobra is OK but is aged now and chances are on a plywood core boat. Merc is a more budget friendly sterndrive with parts around every corner. As for outboards. Go for 4stroke yamaha for absolute reliability.
I own a 87 22ft cuddy cab omc charger with 460 7.5 l engine king cobra i/o which is the better of the two out drives had the bellows replaced and shift cable and my mechanic said I had an amazing boat it will last me at least 5-6 years I couldn't be happier
The only boat I’ve been able to afford is the ones that I’ve had given to me. As crazy as it sounds…. Thankfully I grew up poor and learned to work on everything. I’ve restored boats from the stringers up and in the end the cost vs profit never was a lot. If the boat has sentimental value then it’s always worth it, otherwise it’s so much better to buy a solid boat and always take care of it.
You're doing it wrong then. Honestly though, free stuff is usually dead. I got a wave runner yesterday on Craigslist for dirt cheap, I could literally do nothing and double my money. Was a wealthy guy who's buddy had it not start on him so he bought a new one, the guy I got it from only wanted the trailer so I got a deal on the ski. If I get it running and put it on a trailer I will get 8x what I paid. I believe it only needs a starter, the bendix is failing. And a battery. But if I don't I can part it out and get more than I paid....although its super clean and a 900 so i could list it as-is and make a profit. I got another waverunner a few days ago for half what it's worth because the battery terminal was loose and it needed a starter solenoid ($45), got it going super easily and it came with a shore lift and a trailer. After I clean it I can easily double my money. It's not that hard to watch the market for a month or 2 and see what things are going for, once you gain that understanding it's usually obvious what you can make money on. I saw a v bottom aluminum 14 foot John boat for $35 on a trailer, guy said great shape just dirty. The trailer coupler was busted by the landscaper but I can fix that easily on site. It's a 3 hour drive away but I could sell that by my house for $1200 all day long. Well worth the effort in my opinion. I do not mean any of that to be rude or insulting. Only trying to help.
Awesome video I have a 19 1/2ft Starcraft with the OMC out Drive have had it for years never had a problem getting any parts for it but we work on our own stuff and have knowledge to do what you have to do
Hey Phoenix, I'm here to. The only probs I've had with OMC were dealer related. The OMCs are massive beasts so you need the right stuff and a strong back to handle them. and you can get remans for upper and lower units from several providers. water pumps are a one hour job. I had one crook try to charge me $1000 each to do pumps.
Add boats with a Mercury I/O. I had a Formula 350 with two 8.2L Mag I/O engines. I constantly had problems and the Mercury dealers struggled with getting the engines repaired. I frequently got engine overheat errors, catalytic converter errors and the boat was out of the water more than it was in the water. The last straw was when manifolds had to be replace (a $10,000+ repair) and I was told that “Mercury I/Os need their manifolds replaced every five years, anyway. And oh by the way, there has always been problems with these engines because of the catalytic converters.”. Luckily, the manifold replacement just made it under the wire relative to the warranty. I sold the boat shortly thereafter.
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon The I/Os didn’t discourage me from boating, although I knew other Formula owners who gave up powerboating after having similar experiences. I did flush them after every trip but had a long history of issues anyway. Formula has moved to favoring OBs like the rest of the industry. Right now I have a BW 350 Realm, a Yellowfin 24 CE and a Bennington 25 LFB. Different locations and use cases for each boat but Mercury OBs on all three. The 300 V8s are awesome - much better than their 350 V6 (which I had on two other CCs). Love the DTS and Vesselview - hands down the best around IMHO.
On a boat what you call stringers are called longitudinals. 90 degrees to that are transverse members. Floors are called decks...always. A boat that is going to cost more to repair than it cost to purchase is said to have negative value. Someone who owns it would have to pay someone to purchase it....or chainsaw it and load it in a dumpster.
I bought a moomba with a 351 Windsor that sat in a field for 10 years, I painted it and redid the interior and the boat ran perfectly fine.and no this boat was not stored properly
As far as Jet Drives, make sure the drive IS NOT PLASTIC. It breaks really well. My 432 blue Wetjet had this until an imperfection developed in the O - Ring I did not catch, It blue apart. I then put in a cast aluminum one.
Remember he indicated a ford explorer was a good choice. These vehicles have a 3.5 out of 5 in reliability. This puts his views on boats in question. Buy a Toyota or Honda. You will never get your moneys worth of fun out of an expensive boat. You will get bored in a hurry. Otherwise this is a good video. The most fun I ever had with boats was in a two year old cheap boat with a 50 hp engine. The second most fun was a 1994 jet ski with a 60 hp engine while riding in the gulf at the PC inlet.
I heard or read somewhere that mercruiser B3 had some MAJOR issues with corrosion in salt water, back a few years ago. You could leave it in the salt water for a week or two come back and most of the drive would be gone.
Great video. I have repaired many boats and no one knows that model that's a POS unless someone like you spell it out so thank you for saving people a lot of money here. These little tips are huge. A+
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Bought an old old 14 foot aluminum fishing boat for a lousy hundred bucks back in 2001. The outboard motor was an ancient(built in 1958) 12 h.p twin cylinder 2 stroke that had been lying on its side in the guys back yard for years. I dragged it all home, mounted the outboard back on the transom and hooked up a fuel supply and a garden hose to it for coolant. It literally started up on the 2nd pull and ran perfectly. I changed out the lower drive gear oil and hit the lake. In the last 20 years this old boat has been ran up and down the water for hundreds of hours at wide open throttle, and besides just very basic maitenance i've literally done nothing to this old dinosaur. Who would have thought a hundred bucks and a couple hours of work could have provided 20 years of enjoyment. They definitely do not make them like this old antique anymore!
As a minimalist boater there isn't much to go wrong with your combination.
Did you ever replace the impeller?
I'm still running my Force Motor. I just baby it.
True that got a 1980 50hp suzuki, starts first try every time
Look at the Rudezon. Dude took a 3.6l Evinrude 300XP and shoved it in a Volvo Amazon. It runs better than any Volvo I've turned a wrench on. (And I say that being a fan of the Volvo modular engine)
I rebuilt my force 150 hp two years ago, I was able to find parts, cost me $1000. The alternative to repower was $12,000. They are basic motors easy to work on, I think I made the right choice. I owned the boat over twenty years, lots of good times with the family.
You got lucky.
Yep. Had a 98 Force 120 and it had the typical carb issues and fuel starvation problems. Made by Mercury, but would never buy another boat with one on it. Money pit and left me stranded several times on the lake.
Amen! I have a 120 and a 90, and I’ll never get tired of them
What should you pay for a boat?
New: Full price
Used (running): Lowest price of similar boat
Used (not running): 10% of running price
Wrong,
New Boat. Forget the boat show price. Get the full list price, deduct most add ons then you are starting to get a typical deal when you pay 80% of the full price.
Used boat, I always got for less than what Nada(for boats and outboards says) and far lower for motors used in saltwater.
Used (not running): if you are not a mechanic, this route is not for you.
Just got a 19ft Phantom from the 90s with a 200hp Mercury outboard attached, it’s an absolute beast, gorgeous boat
This guy is 100% onboard........ everything he is talking about is true
The best boat to have is the one in your friends yard!
Thats a deal!
Ain’t that the truth. Had one and got the hell rid of it after a year.
@The steamy Turd I am after 20 years of feeding my Donzi 73 sportfish!
Not really. Mine needs work
haha 🎯
I have a 77' searay ,20' with a OMC electric shift outdrive bolted to a Ford 351. I'm pushing over 1,100 hrs. No problems. I was taught early on how to operate this gem.
I bought a boat with a soft transom - ended up being a very detailed, but enjoyable project for me. It is a little 16' fish and ski, open bow, with a 75hp mercury 2 stroke outboard, on a trailer. I paid $200 for the whole thing, now it has new everything except for an engine rebuild. and I was just offered $6k for it. I am only $2k into it. If you are inclined and have the space, I recommend a project.
Only $2k of money into it. What about your time though. If you valued your time at even $50/hour you’re probably way over $6k right?
@@DVeck89 have you never heard of a labor of love? It’s his or her boat, who allots an hourly wage to repairing their own boat?
$50 a day. Keeps the fleas away.
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just bought my first boat as a repair project... I hit 3 of these lmao! but so far the project is coming along nicely, just got all the electrical work done and got the starter working, engine turns over smoothly. Replacing the flooring and refurbishing the sterndrive. Hardest part to find is that clutch pack for the SelecTrim. Overall its a fun project and everything about the sitting, OMC drives, and rotten wood flooring/stringers is all spot on!
Same here man hope it goes well for you!!
I can add a couple big ones...
Anything over accessorized, new or old. New boats with more amenities than space end up sacrificing any access to service the normal systems in the boat, and older boats are typically trying to distract from larger problems elsewhere in the vessel.
BEWARE OF LOADS OF NEW TUNE UP PARTS with OLD EXHAUST MANIFOLDS! This usually is a sign that the engine(s) may have uneven compression from rusty valves or ingestion of water from porous manifolds and a concerted effort has been made to try and make it run smooth without actually repairing anything.
On anything with an I/O, check the overall shape of the rubber parts in the transom, particularly paying attention to the hardware and it's condition and orientation. This can be an indication of the quality of the workmanship you can expect elsewhere in the boat.
I'm a mechanic at a marina on the Hudson River and I have a propensity for fixing the biggest pieces of crap that find their way to us, which includes Force outboards, OMC drives, OMC Cobra, Volvo XDP (I actually have all the shimming and assembly tools to build those drives), and WORSE (if you can imagine anything worse...). This is the air I breathe and the water I swim in- my bread and butter is being the guy who fixes this trash for people who just can't seem to learn to avoid this stuff.
Unfortunately, I am also burdened with a conscience, so I end up losing money on it most of the time... aaaaaaand while it's not my marina, and not my money, it's still my problem...
Huh? I'm a marine mechanic and really like the old Force outboards for their simplicity.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 great user name, dude... seriously, that's awesome.
I'm not saying that they're not simple or anything like that, but they're primitive and noisy, lack oil injection, and the early ones were basically just old Chrysler outboard motors with new decals. Plus the way the ignition wiring and flimsy linkages were... just not worthy of the hours they consume and terrible aftermarket parts IF you can find them...
I remember the TV commercials for them... "Force by Mercury"- old Chrysler powerhead over a Mercury gearbox. Every cheap 19' Bayliner Capri from the late 80s and early 90s had either a 90 or 125 Force...
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon I'll be in touch- I'd love to do a podcast with you, but I need a new mic and I'd like to chat with you beforehand to get an idea of what to be prepared for. I've been at my current marina for 15 years, but I've been a mechanic for close to 30 years and a boater in my area for my entire life. This could be a load of fun- you'll hear from me soon!
@@rustjockey That's the one, the 125 is my favorite outboard, lol! ;)
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 there was also... a 5 cylinder, though I forget the rating. Haven't seen one of those, but it's in my parts books...
One morning I was driving to work
Culver City CA. And seen a boat parked with a for sale sign. It looks older but in excellent shape. It had a v8 Chevy engine with everything in good condition. The cabin was perfect from the inside like if the boat was kept in a storage for many years.
Silverline 1982 even came with fishing rods.
So I manage to get the funds and payed the guy $4,500. He was asking $5,500. He took my offer with a blink of an eye.
I was asking him how many times he has went fishing on it and years of owing the boat. He said all man. I’ve been to Catalina island , fish all over Santa Monica etc.
Had good times, I hate to let it go but it’s time to say good bye. It was the most exited moment for me. I was having this image of me with some friends or family members fishing riding down the coast etc.
I had no experience of boating so I felt in to the trap. He gave me the title but it wasn’t under his name. He said something about it’s under his friend etc. he said no worries man. If there’s any problems just call me. I’ll go with you to the dmv.
I was so blind that I didn’t put to much attention to that. I after some weeks I decided to take the forms to the dmv and I couldn’t Register because some forms were missing with signatures.
They needed to inspect the boat to see the vin plate and make sure it was good. They said this vessel is out of the system.
Unfortunately the boat was missing the vin plate so I couldn’t register under my name. I called the guy and as you can imagine, no answer. I was scammed, the boat wasn’t stolen but didn’t have a vin plate and needed more forms. It was a total nightmare, so I put all the dmv crap on hold and decided to do do a sea try out. Lol. I manage to dock the boat by seeing others, I manage to drive off , as i was getting Far out by queen Mary ship it turn off , I was super exited and as I tried starting the boat, it wouldn’t start due to over heating.
I was drifting away with the current, no radio vhf, no experience on boating , I had no clue on what to do, I was super nervous, I told god if he was to help me go back to land , I’ll do some good deeds. Lol.
So I tried starting the motor after 20 min and bammm. I shift to drive straight to the docks and never look back.
I end selling it to the carpet cleaner guy. $1,500 bucks as is. With the fony tittle , but I did explain the problems I was having.
I end up letting years go bye and got my auxiliary certificate on safety boat rules etc.
I now own a 2001 21ft trophy with 150 Mercury outboard. I will never forget my first too too. After 15 years I was driving by a street and seen a brown boat that said silverline, in terrible condition with trash and junk inside, I got off and noticed it was missing the vin plate, it was definitely my first boat. It hurt me to see it that way , my kids use to play inside that nice classic silverline.
ADVICE never buy a boat without making sure the title and vessel have matching numbers, also ask for a 30 min minimum sea trial, to make sure it works as they say.
And ask for ID. 🤷🏻♂️
I was 25 year old, “blinded by the light”.
Let’s go fishing?
Lol 😂
Good story man!
Well, finally you made it. 😅😅
1990 Alumacraft (freshwater) with a Cobra outdrive. Still works perfect. Late 90's Force 5 hp kicker. Have done no maintenance, starts first pull every spring.
You also touched on the reason Force engines so commonly cause problems to second/third owners.
I just got a tri hull with a 1987 90 evinrude that hadn’t ran in year, I launched it and it took a while to start, when it started it didn’t want to idle at low rpm and had a bad holeshot, I replaced the spark plug wires and now she has a crazy hole shot and runs like a champ
Thanks for the info! You are spot on. One thing I did was sniff the bilge, a sweet and pungent smell, start looking for rot. Take a wrench or screwdriver and check fasteners going into bulkheads low in the bilge. And definitely the bolts holding motor mounts to stringers. The fiberglass might be good but the wood inside is mush.
Unless you're mechanically inclined or have money to throw at any problem don't buy a boat.
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon na I run Laidbackkeywest.com which is a charter boat down in Key West and have a 2003 250dc worldcat that looks new because it is well maintained. I just know what it takes.
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon also 8 didn't mean to come off rude I like your video!
Exactly this goes for Brand New boats
Nothing like selling the obvious
I would say your comment is accurate. Boats arent cheap to begin with. Then if you run to the dealer every time something goes wrong, that cost goes up and up. Shop around for parts, watch a few how to vids and you are set.
BOAT stands for BILL OUT ANOTHER THOUSAND
It’s so hard on boats to sit unused for 3-4 years, 1995 Celebrity 240 CC Status with 600 hours on it, Labor of love to keep my late brother’s boat that sat for 3 years fully covered in his yard until he passed away a year ago. I’ve now had to replace every component. Fuel pump/impeller system, starter, alternator, silent choice Solenoids, dual batteries, sump pump, bellows, rebuilt lower unit, and even the carburetor could not be rebuilt had to do new. Had bent parts internally. Not to mention trailer, new tires, hub bearings , brakes, and replaced all marine carpet wrapped wooden trailer bunks. I was charged $680 by a marina to pump the 3-4 year old gas out with disposal fee. 50 gallons. Next must rebuild sundeck/engine cover. Wood/hinge rotted, piano hinged. Then, after probably having $6,000 more into it than it’s worth (or more) I’ll have a good boat. All of the pain has been the time involved and many lost weekends.
I bought a classic boat that has been sitting for years, soft floor, soft transom too. The guy said it had a new motor too, well the motor was that new it was still in boxes ready to be assembled. After putting some work into it I know exactly how solid the stringers are, how solid the floor is and how good the transom are. It is going to last for many years to come but not everyone wants to spend money to enjoy them.
I thought this would be about certain specific models to avoid but instead it was like, don't buy a boat that sank.
If it talked about certian models, Bayliner would have this video pulled down
Yeah dont buy a Yellow Stingray ........
🤣🤣🤣 j/k
@@youtubechangedmyname I know, who buys a yellow boat??
@@firealarmtech4100 bayliner are great boats.
@@firealarmtech4100 😂😂👏👏
I have had a OMC Cobra bought new in 1991. We ran it in FRESH water. I have not had any mechanical problems for 31 years. Volvo bought the rights to the Cobra and they still make it . It is called Volvo Penta SX. Parts are still available for the OMC Cobra.
I had an OMC Cobra drive on the back of my last boat, 1995 VIP 19ft. 4.3 v6 and that drive. CONSTANT shifting problems. Replace the transom shift cable twice to no avail. We sold it before it ripped the shift dogs off in the lower unit. New owner said he knew how to fix it. I said good luck as he drove away....Good boat though.
A fresh water sunken boat is not a complete night mare. A friend specifically looks for these at salvage auctions. Puts about 80 hours in to drying the boats, under tents and dehumidifiers, and has had great success. Never consider A salt water sunk boat. I agree with everything else said.
Saltwater isn’t even that bad if you get to it quick. I got a 150k boat for 5k and everything is good except generator.
Also, I disagree with his assessment that boats that have soft spots on the deck are a no go, thats just not true. I had a 24ft 1977 auqusport, that are known for having soft spots. My father and I bought it in 1997, did have a few soft spots on the deck, we went out many times in that boat over 3 years, in some very rough sea conditions. Never had a problem, boat was solid as a rock.
@@lovejetfuel4071 want another one I have one with a diesel for sale.
@@swangtv5951 I don't live in the U.S. anymore, thanks for the offer, though. Thats one thing I miss about living in the states, especially Florida, cheap boats
WOW !! I was thinking here we go some yahoo bashing on a boat he bought BUT I am very surprised ! I am a 35 plus year Marine Technician and I’m certified in Mercury O/B and stern drive. Also Yamaha. I work on all makes of boats and pwc tho. With that said I will attest that you really did your homework on this. You were extremely accurate and informative with your video. I will agree with you on every single subject you spoke on. Oh and some of the Seadoo boats ( like the one you had pictured) have Mercury V6 powerheads in them. I think it’s a 240 on some. All you said applies to it to !! PLEASE PEOPLE QUIT LETTING YOUR BOAT SIT FOR YEARS WITHOUT RUNNING IT !! Thank You !!
If you buy a sunken boat it can only get better, there's no place to go but up...eternal optimist
I dunno. I bought a 20' 87 SeaRay inboard that sat for 15 years, knowing it was going to need a floor. I spent 5 weeks gutting it, replaced every piece of wood, put 2 coats of marine epoxy on all sides, all new upholstery, went through the engine, replaced the bellows on the out drive and put on a new prop. So I'm in it $2500 total and it's basically a new boat. Probably going to paint & gel coat next year. I do everything myself so that saves a ton on cost, but I didn't think it was too bad.
I have a 1983 force 85hp, I personally have used it in salt water for 32 years with no problem other than general maintenance. My mechanic loves it because there is no electronic junk, basic two stroke. They are good motors with all due respect.
Had a 84 125 Force myself. It was a very decent motor. Ran it all over the cold saltwater of Alaska for many years. Maintenance was about $10 a year for a quart of gear lube and 4 of those silly surface gap spark plugs. My power tilt/trim even still worked when I sold it!
For some reason, the 85/90 Chrysler/ Force were probably the most reliable of this make. They were far less capable than the Mercs/Yamaha/OMC but okay.
I have been looking into a beautiful 2007 Regal 2565 Window Express. During my research, I came across your video. This boat, no doubt, has an XDP sterndrive. I passed on this boat immediately. Thank you so much for your great information.
Glad it was helpful!
Had an 85 force, sat in the field for 15 years and we swapped it to a pontoon. It started right up with no issues.
I have a 1998 Tracker with a Force 40 that I bought new and have never had the first issue. Over 22 years and running strong.
Last year for Force was ‘96 and the newer ones had a lot of Merc parts which made them better.
I own a 40 year old classic Boston Whaler that still looks and performs amazingly. There is a cult like attraction to these boats, so much so that owners spend thousands on restoration that include new outboards or paint jobs. Plus, there is a never ending supply of buyers when you want to sell one. Simply great old boats...
I second that as a current owner of a Ribside and Montauk
If you’re looking at used boats, always remember this; The rot you initially discover is usually at least four times more extensive.
Sounds like solid advise...Im looking for my first boat, and im trying to learn as much as i can
@@hookahb8299
Get a marine survey before you buy. Don’t get I-want-ititis. It can be blinding! Don’t start justifying. Yes, it can be fixed but get an idea for cost before you commit. How much are you really qualified to do yourself? Boats are not like Real estate. 90% never get their money back if they sell, but most do it for satisfaction. And there’s nothing like waking up to a new view in the morning enjoying the fruits of your labor.
Great advice. The same could be said for a singles bar, too!
@@rpm2dayg648
LOL! True
@@SkypowerwithKarl More like 100% never get their money back, unless you own some collector's item. If you thought new car value depreciates fast, buy a boat.
Got a free Glassmaster with soft floors, & an omc drive that hadn't been run for years. It's still a yard ornament, but I'm working on rebuilding (and repowering) it to turn it into a big deep V bass boat.
I'm a retired firefighter and I did boat repair as a side business and now I do easy stuff. I agree 100% with everything you say here. I've had way too many customers bring in a boat they just bought with one or more of these issues and I had to turn them away. If only people would call me before they buy a boat. I've gone out to meet buyers at sellers house and looked over boats. I can't believe how many stringer drives were out there. Had one seller get angry at me and was acting like he was gonna punch me because I walked up to the buyer and said dont buy this it's a stringer. Force outboards... ehhhh I do agree don't buy those but I have customers with those and I can still get aftermarket parts and they're easy to work on. Even had to tell a customer not to buy a boat with that electric shift, I hadn't seen one until then. Evinrude I think it was. Had a rotten transom too. I still have my old 1988 Volvo with a stroker and 290 DP. Overhauled the drive 15 years ago it's on its 4th motor. Still a good clean boat, But I would not recommend anyone buy those old 290s or 280s. Good channel glad I found it!
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon Probably should mention never buy Yamaha sterndrives. i actually had 2 customers with these. I was able to get parts from Nelson's Marine in PCB but he is getting low on parts now. I would guess there aren't many left, but like those stringer drives they keep popping up and get sold to unsuspecting buyers.
I bought a used 1993 20 ft Bayliner Classic Cuddy in 2005 for $8,000 with a 130 HP inboard/outboard stern drive mercruiser and it was the best buy in my life! The total weight of the boat, trailer and gear is only 3200 lbs so it is easily towable with my Chevy Astro Van. Cabin is small but it has a potty toilet and I can sleep on the water for three days and two glorious nights. I take a hot shower on top of the closed bow using a 2 gallon bucket and battery powered shower pump. In 19 years that I own it, I only have 2 major work on the outboard costing $1000 and $3500 so my repair expenses were less than $250 per year. The inboard is a GM 4 cyl engine which is bullet proof as long as you maintain it like an automotive car engine. Top speed is 36 MPH and when I anchor in the middle of the lake....I laugh at the other boats going in because most fish bite 1 to 2 hours after sunset and 1 to 2 hours before sunrise. Sleeping on the water is a thrill that I do for at least 8 to 10 times a year.
$1000 and $3500 sounds like an expensive motor to me. Also it’s a Bayliner and that means non-compatible with Saltwater. Btw, Sterndrives are also not compatible with Saltwater. The Saltwater crowd would sneer and the fact of a Bayliner and also a sterndrive
What I find is a number of boat owners that don't believe a boat needs routine maintenance such as their home or their auto. They drag their boat out of the backyard or the local storage facility, pull the cover off maybe change the oil, put gas in it a go for a ride.
Boats, like automobiles and homes need basic maintenance. Oil changes, tuneups, cables, pulleys and levers checked. An occasional wash-down and maybe a wax and polish. And one other thing that is a must in many locations is you have to winterize before putting it away for the winter. Do the basics and you'll receive many seasons of enjoyable boating on the water.
Those that say the best days they had with their boat was the day they bought it and the day they sold it or those that say a boat is just a hole in the water in which you throw money into are people we don't need in the boating community and I believe we are happier without them
I've worked on boats for years and you're right on the money. I could add to that list but that might include most all boats
A friend of mine bought a omc here in Holland. First time on the water we had fun for about 400 meters en a loud bang en no more going forward. I did rebuild the Sterndrive. The second time on the water we had fun . But then we noticed we made al lot of water. The rubber a the back was leaking. Replaced that too. The trailer also needed new bearing so we did that too The third run after 3 miles no more gasoline was coming to the engine. Rebuild the caburator. The next 3 times it was running good en then suddenly got overheated. I did a compression test earlier on it but my friend didnt want to believe the outcome .... I said it needed a rebuild . It stayed about 4 Years in the garage en he had mechanics working on it.... Now he sold the damn thing because it still didnt run. .. But i had a lot of fun with that boat learnt a lot of it so i never going to buy me a boat whahhah.
Best story I heard was a master
wood boat builder who worked at Van
Dam Boats in Michigan. He restored an
old Matthews Wood yacht which he got
for FREE. His comment at some point
into the project was " I paid to much".
Wonder how it turned out.
Why I love my nitro ski and fish 18 foot 150hp best of both worlds. I don't get jealous of other people's boats. I think my kids will grow to love boating and fishing because of this boat
I just purchased a good looking older boat with an OMC stringer sterndrive. The host of this video is 100% right, avoid them like the plague. The lower unit sheared off, the old threads pulled out and I lost it in the water. You cannot find the parts ANYWHERE. Now I need to do an out board bracket conversion
You’re an idiot like the guy running this channel
There are a lot of stringer fans out there still but I agree for the most part, they're just too old at this point.
I've had the 800 stern drive for like 20 years now. I haven't used it much in the last ten but in the first 5 years I had to put a new shift dog in it because it wouldn't stay in reverse and the spine shaft that comes from the 90° gearbox to the lower unit stripped while pulling up a skier. Ive had water issues getting in and oil leaks.. had the stupid thing appart several times I had it memorized how it all goes back together. They work good most of the time but you better make sure you check the oils in the three locations before each use. Oh and I think it locked up on me a couple times too because it leaked all the oil out.. yeah.. gotta check them frequently. I'm very mechanically inclined so that's the only reason it's alive today. Just used it today actually 😄 no problems. 🤞
I picked up a 18’ Bayliner outboard with trailer and a force 135 for $500 I pulled the engine right off and installed my 200HP Yamaha rebuilt by myself on it and am going to sew up new interior real soon here and plan to be fishing and wakeboarding come spring. Oh I sold the force 135 that ran fine but needed a water pump installed for $800. Thinking the bayliner should run 60 easy with the ski prop. Going to be a fun ride.
I would check the horsepower rating. 200hp sounds like a lot for an 18’ boat. I have a ‘98 Glastron GS 180, and it’s max horsepower rating is 150, which exactly what I have on it. Does 54 mph with a Merc 4-stroke.
Great call on having a sunken boat at the top of your list. The only things that are engineered to be fully submerged on boats are the outdrive and the sump pumps. Even the hull can be permanently damaged it has left under water for very long.
I bought a carver mariner 79 my hubby and I are 2nd owners of it .. we just need to fix up some holes and new engines not too bad for $500!!! Why not a bedroom a separate bathroom shower living room kitchen three decks it's amazing
I have an old 88 boat with an OMC drive, and I was initially very concerned about not finding parts anymore. However I've since found Sierra and others making parts for OMC drives readily available.
Where is this place located
I have a 2850 contessa, it was fairly cheap($6000) I have spent 3 summers camping and fishing, swimming etc. Great layout, Volvo penta drive, can still tow it! I'm sure it's not the best but I don't see how it could be the worst, rock what you got!
Thinking about buying that exact boat ,1987. Any words of wisdom to pass along?
It's large! When you step up to a 10ft beam the boat gets big, but all the same things apply, I stayed in contact with the seller and asked him lots of questions since I got it in the fall and didn't take it out for 6 months. One dumb thing I did was re-seal the plexi glass windows with an oil based caulking which caused them to crack. Pull the oil drain on the outdrive to see if it's got water in it.
Me: so where's the boat?
Person selling: underwater just over there, it's sunken
Me: Sold! Versatility is key.
cb A bc, I know some boat guys like you:
Boat guy: 𝑺𝒐 𝒚𝒐𝒖'𝒓𝒆 𝒔𝒆𝒍𝒍𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝒕𝒉𝒊𝒔 𝒃𝒐𝒂𝒕. 𝑫𝒐𝒆𝒔 𝒊𝒕 𝒓𝒖𝒏?
Seller: 𝒀𝒆𝒂𝒉, 𝒊𝒕 𝒔𝒕𝒂𝒓𝒕𝒔 𝒖𝒑 𝒆𝒗𝒆𝒓𝒚 𝒕𝒊𝒎𝒆, 𝒓𝒖𝒏𝒔 𝒈𝒓𝒆𝒂𝒕.
Boat guy: 𝑵𝒐𝒕 𝒊𝒏𝒕𝒆𝒓𝒆𝒔𝒕𝒆𝒅. 𝑮𝒐𝒕 𝒂𝒏𝒚 𝒕𝒉𝒂𝒕 𝒂𝒓𝒆𝒏'𝒕 𝒓𝒖𝒏𝒏𝒊𝒏𝒈?
@@RockThisTown2000 seller sounds like a terrible salesperson! Could have atleast said the boat hit the seabed on couple occasions and resurfaced to get the Boat guy excited 😅
You : lame
Totally agree. Dealing with bad outboard (motors) is one thing. But a rotten transom will cost you more time and $ than most boat repairs. True!!
i had a 86 bayliner capri, dam fiberglass hull on that boat was bullet proof, a little heavey but tough.
All older boats had thicker glass
cant say anything good about the force motor on it, mabey it ran decent through the 90s. i repowered it with a yamaha for a few years then got a carolina skiff and swaped the motor on it. the yamaha has been running fine now for almost 15 years.
I’m still riding in a 1995 Stratos with an OMC Evinrude and just put a new lower unit on the engine. SEI got me hooked up for $1200 completely brand new and it’s a direct replacement/bolt on for any OMC motor.
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon I own a boat repair business, SEI is who I purchase all of my replacement lower units from. Great customer service, great products, and never have I had a SEI unit come back to me for failure. Plus their warranty is awesome.
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon I have ran my SEI lower now for 2 years and I run my Stratos 2 times a week every week of the year so it’s gets ran consistently. Have had zero issues to date! Just make sure your changing you lower unit oil in a timely fashion.
The exception to your OMC drive rule I would say is the cobra drive. Those are still very easily serviced. The rest I would stay away from.
Yeah I’ve heard the cobra is still easy to find parts. It’s the King Cobra which wasn’t produced long as it is and there is no aftermarket parts being manufactured.
As a retired Master tech this guy is spot on avoid these boats like the plague ! Unless You get them for peanuts ! Or paid to take them away and know what You are getting into!
Many years ago a 100ft yacht sank in
Long Island sound, spent about a month
on the bottom. The boat was raised and
with a very coordinated plan had the
engines flushed and running within
24 hours. I'm sure they had a large crew flushing and preserving the whole
boat. The hull topsides lost all the faring putty and the wood decks were
full of worm holes. I saw the boat in Florida. It was named " PERSISTENCE "
This salvage took place +- 40 years ago. It was docked in Fort Lauderdale
or Miami and I overheard a conversation between the owner on
the boat and someone on the dock. That is how I heard the details. I believe the boat was bought from the insurance company while still on the bottom.The boat was quite new when it sank due to a fire burning through the exhaust system and flooding it.
Most original owners would not want
the boat back after such an incident.
I believe I read about the sinking in
Soundings but saw the salvaged
and running boat in Florida.
Hope you find out what happened
to "PERSISTENCE " Don't know it's
name before it sank in L I Sound.
@@williambikash6645 we just sold to that boat at defender this week and it’s back in the Long Island 😈
@@zacharytodd2219
How accurate was my recollection of the incident? What make of boat is it?
Do you know the original and current name of the yacht. What is its exact length?
Tidbit- there was a guy... totally blind, from Coos Bay OR. that was famous for rebuilding OMC outdrives. Paid 800$ for one, worked great! :)
Let me make this way easier for everyone. *Unless you are mechanically inclined or rich, do not buy a boat*
My bot hasn’t rn for 4 years and the only problem with it when I bought it was that the starter no the carburetor were broken. I bought the bot for 500. Now it’s running perfectly
I bought a 1989 sea ray 220 for $670. The guy told me “he couldn’t get it to crank.” I could tell it hadn’t run in years and that it needed some time and money into. So far I’m loving my project (that I planned for), but also, it’s true, don’t buy a boat that hasn’t run in years unless you’re ready to do the necessary (and sometimes surprising) work that YOU WILL have to do
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon well for starters , the motor , which appeared to be in excellent condition considering it’s age, was completely seized! 2. The outdrive had tons of corrosion inside once it was removed. 3. There were loose wires all behind the dash (another mess to figure out). It’s nothing short of a project. I figure it’ll take me a year at the rate I’m going, but once I finish , I’ll be sure to upload a restoration video .
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon I haven’t even investigated the wires to see how bad it is. I just know I’ll need a manual . I hope when I do get to it, I don’t have to re run things. You’re right, it would be a pain . I’ll subscribe and try to remember to come back to your page when everything is done .
I was looking at a 2007 Regal 3350, it had twin Volvo 8.1 engines. Thanks for your information. It probably saved me some more
I clicked on this hoping not to hear "Never, under any circumstance, buy a 14 foot Carolina Skiff " 😀 just got mine not too long ago with no research or knowledge. Just a good deal.
In many of these cases, its less about what not to buy and more about what not to pay for. If a boat's structurally sound but has been sunk... but recovered quickly... well buy it expecting you are going to be replacing the engine and electrical systems and doing a massive clean on it, regardless of the condition it looks to be in.
for example 18' aluminum john-boat got sunk at dock after getting swamped and sunk in weather. Ok, so buy it for the hull, expect the engine to be worthless, battery to be gone, if its a lithium battery... expect it to explode so you WANT it gone... and other basic electrical systems, expect to replace that. Since a john boat has very limited electrical systems usually you are often fine to buy the hull, as if you are buying hull only.
there are some people who are really skilled at rebuilding boats, can take 100's of hours or even 1000's of hours and strip down and rebuild a boat, re-fiberglass, pull out old wood and replace... Unless you yourself are trained and have done this before... don't expect to buy it and say you'll do it on your own.
I’ve had a force engine with minimal issues for 7 years now never left me stranded it’s bad on fuel and the power trim stinks but that 85hp has great compression fog it every winter change the gear oil before winter and put new plugs simple engines
I gots an old glastron tri hull fiberglass boat and after I peeled the floor up, it was nothing but soaking wet pieces of rigid foam that was unsalvageable. Seen one at the boat ramp yesterday. Nice to see one that's been well maintained.
The top of the list for worst boats is a Bayliner also when you are out on the water and see a Bayliner stay away from it because most people who own a Bayliner they are about as good at running a boat as the quality of a Bayliner
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon I have a 58ft Carolina custom sportfishing boat built by Hunley Sullivan in South Florida is where it's docked at. I have had or been around boats my whole life and anyone who has been in the boating world all know 1 thing and that is if you see a Bayliner stay away from that boat just like most people who have jet skis they are like flies at a BBQ and no I would never get anywhere near a Bayliner
No, Bayliners make good boats for real men, not little girls like you.
@@airgliderz apparently you don't know a damn thing about boats and are the types of people who are a prime example of what to stay far away from on the water
@@brandonescoe9980 so I see your an armchair expert boater. Go back to your recliner boat with a pile of boating magazines next to it dreaming about owning a real boat for real men not little girls play boats you desire.
Truth!
Excellent sound Advice ! i’ve bought and sold over 17 or 18 boats over my life so far Deisel ,Gas ,old and new and i learned that the hard way ! Unfortunately a couple of times in my defense i bought my first Boat , before i had a car i had to borrow my Dads StationWagon to pull it home ! BTW i grew up InFlorida and as a Teenager i was doing Fiberglass and GelCoat repairs
The Cobra omc are actually really reliable if they are taken care of . Volvo bought the designed and continued using it for years.
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon No not for free. I watch the first video for free. Then I charge 25.00 to watch each additional Video. How many of your videos do you want me to watch?
I really enjoy your Programs ! I just watched your program on Boats not to buy, I learned a lot, good info. We are not planning on buying another boat. We bought our Bayliner in 1986, in Reno, NV, and we love it. We have always kept it inside with a cover on it, it has a Force 125 engine. I have drained the oil from the bottom end every two years. Three years ago I installed a new water pump, I took the old parts to a boat engine mechanic, he said that all the parts I brought him didn't need to be replaced ? That was the first time the water pump had been replaced ? We run 145 octane fuel (with the proper amount of oil) The engine runs great ! I have had to replace all the switches. Oh yes I have had a couple problems with the engine, there was sum small plastic pieces I found down inside, ? it went to a part of the timing ?, I glued it back together, and then took a piece of 3/4" X 4"X10" brass and cut off the part we need, it is very small, with holes drilled and taped. The other problem was mud dabbers and yellow jackets making nests inside the engine compartment and the out drive. When we are done running our boat I always run the engine out of fuel. I shoot some Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder. Our lake is at 5,000 feet (Topaz Lake, Nevada) 16 miles from home. When people see our boat (Middle Age Crazy) they can't believe it is old as it is. My wife and I are 77 years young, and I still use my Air-Chair. Thank You for the time you take to make all your Programs, you are to be commended ! I enjoy them very much.
Want to rethink 145 octane fuel which
is unavailable as gasoline unless you
have access to WWII fighter plane fuel.
Most current racing fuels top out at
about 116 octane. Using much more
octane then the engine needs makes
for hard starting and sluggish response.
Natural gas (CNG) is about 130 octane
but how do you mix in oil!! Oh and at an
altitude of 5000 ft with less barometric pressure you need less octane. Enjoy
your boat.
@@williambikash6645 My kids buy racing fuel by the 55 gallon drum, years ago it use to be around 145 ? I'm not sure what it is now, Our boat really runs good, friend that really knows oil and fuel tested our fuel and gave us our mixtur. the oil mix is written down, I don't remember it off hand. The oil is Quick silver Advanced premium synthetic blend 2-stroke marine oil. We have no trouble starting the engine, but it is a little slow out of the hole, it dosen't take much then it's gone. but like you said it is a little under powered. Just one Air-Chair..
John
Octane is a measurement of a fuel
to resist detonation, it is not a measurement of the energy in a
fuel. Very high octane is used in
highly modified engine with high
compression or supercharged or
high cylinder temperatures as in a
air cooled engine. Racing fuels are
sometimes formulated to have higher
energy but octane is not that measurement. If your engine responds
to racing fuel in a positive way then your
carburation and or timing is out of adjustment. The 2 cycle oil mixture doesn't .need to change much from
what is recommended from the manufacturer regardless of the fuel
octane. The oil is for lubrication.
Your engine should run best on
89-93 octane fuel with no ETHANOL
High altitude actually lowers octane
requirement. What is an air chair?
@@williambikash6645 Thank you so much for the information, I you have changed my mind on fuels. I have never touched the timing or the carburetors. All our kid are grown, all our grand children are grown, They all have there RV's thangs, none of them have boats, just race cars, so my wife and go cruising with our older friends. Thanks Again
No exaggeration video.
No sugar coating. In fact, time you buy marine plywood, and suitable wood for boat building to do repairs, you will be regretting the deal even before you buy marine grade fiberglas.
I'd like to add, just as with cars and houses, beware of fresh paint covering up cheap cobbled short lived repairs.
I know it is criminal for anyone to jury rig a boat, knowing it might come apart or leave the new buyer and family stranded 20 miles out in the ocean.
But those heartless people exist.
So beware.
Lucky me, I bought my seadoo speedster 2009 with only 18 hours on it. Works perfectly 👍👌
My neighbour gave me a boat on a trailer that wasnt used in 12 years. I was newly retired and put new axle and springs and wheels on trailer. VHF worked and I gave it a new antenna.I put in new transom,floor,and stringers.Now I know exactly what I have.I found year 2000 50horse Honda 4 stroke and a 2005 9.9 honda kicker, and am now back into salmon fishing here in western Canada.Lots of fiberglass vids. on RUclips!
Can confirm, soft floor and transom lead me to rip everything out. If it seems just a little bad it is horrible.
My first boat was an I/O never again, the maintenance was insane, especially since i used it in the sea water, sold it and upgraded to an older way older 1985 38’ Silverton convertible with the inboard drive shaft, that bigger boat was cheaper to maintain mechanically than 1999 29’ I/O, and built solid
You literally described every type of boat I am always trying to buy!!!
This seems more for the current "call a plumber to change a $7 toilet flapper in 2 minutes" set. Still, it might give the first-timer some stuff to ponder, so thumbs up.
I used to be up for fixing anything, but, unless it's free why not dodge the headache and cost.
My biggest tip for new boat buyers is to first ensure they have one of the following:
1. Moderate money for parts and the tools/aptitude to learn DIY maintenance and repair
Or
2. LOTs of money to throw at the local Marina if you can't do it yourself
Yeah don't stick your hand in a hot fire...
@@kevinllewis2585 best comment I was gonna say No shit.
@@kiheirc3195 yeah agree brother
I’m buying a soft transom boat (19 ft 150hp aqua sport osprey) and I will repair it myself. Should I back out?
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon ahh I see. Thanks!
sunk boat is photo of boat on bottom of west grand traverse bay , lake Michigan this past summer , have seen it for sale local for 5000.00
A lot of this would seem like common knowledge, but then I can think of someone I know who has a boat that has sunk, has a weak transom, floor, etc, and looked at me and asked if I wanted to buy it, and i looked at them like they were an alien. I remember stating, no i do not want a floating project that will cost me $10k+. I am a cheap bastard, but even I can see that would be a bad deal. It's not like a car you can send to recycling and still get a few $$$ from
Nice review. I can add Yamaha 4 stroke 6 cylinder outboards from around 2003 to 2006. They had some problems with the exhaust metal pitting and causing intrusion of water into the powerhead. I just replaced the midsections on my 2 x 225s. Never a recall or service bulletin. Engines were rinsed religiously after each use and only 700 hrs on these 2003 babies.
Also just bought a 2017 Robalo 207 dual console and after 3 yrs, the upholstery is shot and needs to be replaced. This is a known problem with the company who manufactured the defective material and Robalo has now changed to Naugahyde. Robalo says it is out of warranty but will be willing to replace the known defective material at their cost of $2800 plus several hundred dollars shipping and installation of approximately $1000.
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon Thanks for the reply BBSW. I certainly have gotten my money's worth out of these engines and the repair was reasonably priced. I was just warning people about not judging a book by it's cover. Externally the engines looked fine as does my 265 Edgewater CC. If I were to sell the boat, the buyer might look at it and think this is a beautiful boat with relatively low hours on Yamaha 4 stroke engines and then have to pay for one or two new powerheads shortly after the purchase. I think Joe Joe is the one who needs to get a grip!
Keep up the good work!!
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon I have an unnatural love for that boat! Looked at new boats like the Everglades, Boston Whaler, Robalo, etc and cannot get excited about buying a new boat. The Edgewater has everything I could want in a 26 footer. Seems like a much bigger boat due to the 9'8" beam. I have had to do some maintenance like replacing bait well pumps, steering leaks, tilt mechanism etc but it is an amazing boat. The twin Yamaha 225s push it nicely and i get 2 mpg at cruising if it is not too rough. I use it out in the Gulf of Mexico. I could go on and on!
🤣🤣🤣
About transoms and other spots, don't put wood back in your rotted boat. Use Coosa board, Sea Cast, etc...
The only reason my neighbors bought a boat was to park it on the driveway and never use it.
All Of this us 100% correct. I know. I was given a boat. I lifted up the cover on the boat in the driveway. It was full of water. Rain and snow water. That had frozen and thawed several times over 6 years. So I was young healthy an extremely competent Engineer. So I took it. Drained the water. Changed the tires bearing and races. Towed it home. Spent 3 months exposing all the wood that had wet rot. To include the transom. Ground out the rotted fiberglass. Then cut and prepped the wood. White oak. Including the transom. Sealed and put a few coatings of Minwax Hellmsman Spar Varnish. Then installed it into the frame, transom and console. Then applied the fiberglass 10 coates. Paint and registration. Then rebuilt the old Johnson. Took it out on the water. Had an offer for three times what I had in it. Sold it. Would I do it again. Heck no.
I got an incredible education though That served me well in building my Mahogany inboard. Again the first day on the water. The bling was too much for a gentleman who opened his wallet wide. I learned a lot from that to. But I'll never touch an old boat again in my life. I would rather spend my free time on the water.
Informative video, but in some cases I would disagree greatly.
There are many like myself who love to work on older or vintage boats that have not ran in ages.
I enjoy doing fiberglass and jellcoat repairs on damaged boats as well as getting my hands greasy rebuilding older vintage Johnson Evinrude motors.
I would gladly take on most of these boats and restore them.
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon my first boat that I am restoring is a 1955, 12 foot Larson Crestliner Commando, with a 1955 Johnson Seahorse, 25 hp outboard. I remade a new oak wood transom. And learned how to steam and bend 15ft oak for the gunnels. And I polished the aluminum hull to a mirror finish. I'm still not done because I want it done right.
The second boat is a 1960 fiberglass boat (Can't find the hull ID) with a Johnson 1980 40hp outboard; where the previous owner docked his boat on the sandy beach the rubbed off the gelcoat and 90 % of the fiberglass that caused flooding. The boat is a total loss, but I saw it potential and started the glass work last summer, and this year I am ripping out the decking and replacing everything. This fall and winter I have e been researching and studying different techniques on how to achieve this task.
For the new person like I was at one time. Do your research. I can't express that enough. If you are going to do glass work, know the difference types of resins and how they cure. For example polyester resin cures only when you put on the gel coat. Then theirs the Catalyst or hardeners Poly uses M.E.K. OR M.E.K.-A.
know everything you can about the boat you are wanting. Know the language used.
I can tell you from experience, if you think you know enough about the boat you're getting into. Research more.
I have spent about a good 6 months studying and learning about a 1985, Johnson seahorse, V6, 150hp motor. And I feel like I still don't have enough information and tips and tricks to deal with it. But I love the challenge and it keeps me away from the wife. Lol
In a later post, I'll site all my sources of information and how to's for your viewers.
you live in florida? cause I got on old 71 6.5 evinrude. I don't even know where to start
Wish I was as handy as you so I could buy salvaged yachts
Appreciate your comment, but I thought he said, several times, “unless you have the talent, skills, and tools”…
Gelcoat
What about a 1977 Grew 206 with a Windsor engine that needs flooring,seats,canopy?
I’ve had a bayliner for 35 years great boat .bang fo the buck u can’t beat it
Bayliner used to meet great boats. Now? Another story.
Bayliner in the 80’s took a bad rap because of how they were packaged. Many were underpowered and they were not premier boats. A lot of new boaters would buy and complain about issues due to underpower or misuse.
I bought a Craigcat. 33 hours on the engine (Evinrude 30HP e-tec) it wont start. Mechanic says it'll cost me $8000.00 to repair it. Top of the line Craigcat, a piece of junk in my backyard. Didn't even burn one tank of oil through it. That hurts.
My brother in law just gave me a 1985 Malibu skier that I’ve been in many times over 20 years he s taken excellent care of the boat and it’s still in great condition. How can I be so lucky? Well he’s a smart meticulous guy and he knows what happens when these things sit around and he’s at a place in life where he doesn’t get out as much as he’d like and he knows I live 20 minutes from the lake. A great brother in law no doubt, so anyway though I’ve been skiing and wakeboarding and driving boats this boat in particular most of my life (48) I’ve never owned a boat of my own so I’m now in a learning curve and I felt it good on the first outing as I went out for the first time lake was way to choppy with probably 4 or 5 foot rollers and I was by the dock I hit reverse to straighten up and bam I snapped off my swim deck in the chop and now I can’t find the swim deck bracket anywhere on line it has a picture of a dolphin on it and research says they arent in business any more. Any advice on this?
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon that sounds like a huge deal but maybe it wont be. Thanks for the quick reply.
Make one.
@@tommitchell8425 that’s exactly what I did do thanks for the comment
All aluminum boat [ ex: G3 ] has minimal soft parts to deteriorate. Will probably out live the owner. Recent trips to various water rec areas [INCLUDING Galveston Bay show predominance of Yamaha engine of choice. Commercial owners cite good reliability as main reason to buy.
Stay away from all plywood core boats. If you're boat shopping stick with something 1998 or later. You might think it's old and they don't make em like they used to. Totally wrong. Most boat manufacturers went away with plywood and balsa with much better material in the late 90's. Once plywood starts rotting its a headache and will discourage boating. If you're a boating buff that has experience teplacing rot then go ahead. Worry free boaters stay away from plywood. And stay away from boats that were layed up using spray chop strand layers. You want hand layed or vacuum infused fiberglass. Another thing is wiring and plumbing. It should all be nice and neat. If it looks like a bird nest behind panels run away. The fuel tank should be easy to get out or accessible. Should be of quality marine aluminum. should any problems occur. Guy is spot on about omc stringers. Those things strip drive splines without warning and they are inefficient junk. Cobra is OK but is aged now and chances are on a plywood core boat. Merc is a more budget friendly sterndrive with parts around every corner. As for outboards. Go for 4stroke yamaha for absolute reliability.
I own a 87 22ft cuddy cab omc charger with 460 7.5 l engine king cobra i/o which is the better of the two out drives had the bellows replaced and shift cable and my mechanic said I had an amazing boat it will last me at least 5-6 years I couldn't be happier
The only boat I’ve been able to afford is the ones that I’ve had given to me. As crazy as it sounds…. Thankfully I grew up poor and learned to work on everything. I’ve restored boats from the stringers up and in the end the cost vs profit never was a lot. If the boat has sentimental value then it’s always worth it, otherwise it’s so much better to buy a solid boat and always take care of it.
You're doing it wrong then. Honestly though, free stuff is usually dead. I got a wave runner yesterday on Craigslist for dirt cheap, I could literally do nothing and double my money. Was a wealthy guy who's buddy had it not start on him so he bought a new one, the guy I got it from only wanted the trailer so I got a deal on the ski. If I get it running and put it on a trailer I will get 8x what I paid. I believe it only needs a starter, the bendix is failing. And a battery. But if I don't I can part it out and get more than I paid....although its super clean and a 900 so i could list it as-is and make a profit. I got another waverunner a few days ago for half what it's worth because the battery terminal was loose and it needed a starter solenoid ($45), got it going super easily and it came with a shore lift and a trailer. After I clean it I can easily double my money. It's not that hard to watch the market for a month or 2 and see what things are going for, once you gain that understanding it's usually obvious what you can make money on. I saw a v bottom aluminum 14 foot John boat for $35 on a trailer, guy said great shape just dirty. The trailer coupler was busted by the landscaper but I can fix that easily on site. It's a 3 hour drive away but I could sell that by my house for $1200 all day long. Well worth the effort in my opinion.
I do not mean any of that to be rude or insulting. Only trying to help.
I bought a boat that hasn't ran and 10years and it runs so good
Awesome video I have a 19 1/2ft Starcraft with the OMC out Drive have had it for years never had a problem getting any parts for it but we work on our own stuff and have knowledge to do what you have to do
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon awesome video by the way thanks for sharing with us
Hey Phoenix, I'm here to. The only probs I've had with OMC were dealer related. The OMCs are massive beasts so you need the right stuff and a strong back to handle them. and you can get remans for upper and lower units from several providers. water pumps are a one hour job. I had one crook try to charge me $1000 each to do pumps.
Add boats with a Mercury I/O. I had a Formula 350 with two 8.2L Mag I/O engines. I constantly had problems and the Mercury dealers struggled with getting the engines repaired. I frequently got engine overheat errors, catalytic converter errors and the boat was out of the water more than it was in the water. The last straw was when manifolds had to be replace (a $10,000+ repair) and I was told that “Mercury I/Os need their manifolds replaced every five years, anyway. And oh by the way, there has always been problems with these engines because of the catalytic converters.”. Luckily, the manifold replacement just made it under the wire relative to the warranty. I sold the boat shortly thereafter.
@@BoatBuyersSecretWeapon The I/Os didn’t discourage me from boating, although I knew other Formula owners who gave up powerboating after having similar experiences. I did flush them after every trip but had a long history of issues anyway. Formula has moved to favoring OBs like the rest of the industry.
Right now I have a BW 350 Realm, a Yellowfin 24 CE and a Bennington 25 LFB. Different locations and use cases for each boat but Mercury OBs on all three. The 300 V8s are awesome - much better than their 350 V6 (which I had on two other CCs). Love the DTS and Vesselview - hands down the best around IMHO.
The only good boat is your pals who wants someone to tag along.
On a boat what you call stringers are called longitudinals. 90 degrees to that are transverse members. Floors are called decks...always. A boat that is going to cost more to repair than it cost to purchase is said to have negative value. Someone who owns it would have to pay someone to purchase it....or chainsaw it and load it in a dumpster.
I bought a moomba with a 351 Windsor that sat in a field for 10 years, I painted it and redid the interior and the boat ran perfectly fine.and no this boat was not stored properly
351s seem to b good motors...had one n my 1994...ran strong
As far as Jet Drives, make sure the drive IS NOT PLASTIC. It breaks really well. My 432 blue Wetjet had this until an imperfection developed in the O - Ring I did not catch, It blue apart. I then put in a cast aluminum one.
This video was VERY helpful. Thx for posting.
Remember he indicated a ford explorer was a good choice. These vehicles have a 3.5 out of 5 in reliability. This puts his views on boats in question. Buy a Toyota or Honda. You will never get your moneys worth of fun out of an expensive boat. You will get bored in a hurry. Otherwise this is a good video. The most fun I ever had with boats was in a two year old cheap boat with a 50 hp engine. The second most fun was a 1994 jet ski with a 60 hp engine while riding in the gulf at the PC inlet.
Don’t buy a Malibu boat that has the mefi 3 ecm because they quit making them and if you find an ecm they are rebuilt and go for $1800
Swap the engine for a Predator 6.5 ...make youtube video = profit
I heard or read somewhere that mercruiser B3 had some MAJOR issues with corrosion in salt water, back a few years ago. You could leave it in the salt water for a week or two come back and most of the drive would be gone.
Great video. I have repaired many boats and no one knows that model that's a POS unless someone like you spell it out so thank you for saving people a lot of money here. These little tips are huge. A+