i was going to look at videos about buying pre-own SUVs , don't know how i stumle to your video. And i learn a learn from your video, and will click subscribe now. and not even looking for boats.
You have increased my confidence one-thousandfold in looking at my next used boat. Great advice all around. Thanks ever so much for this terrific video. From your Great Lakes neighbor in Michigan.
My boat doesn't have an hour meter either but there is still a way to tell. Well, a couple ways. #1 when you turn the key to the run position before starting, the tach gauge jumps to the approximate number of hours in hundreds. So if it jumps to the 3k rpm mark, it means there is about 300 hours. #2 an engine scanner can tell the exact hours. So lookup the specific boat you're looking at and see if there's still a way to tell the hours if it doesn't have a meter.
Check for engine ware, whilst the engine is running lift the oil dip stick and check for combustion blowby which can indicate a worn engine. Engines are a big ticket item to rebuild or replace so additional checks like an engine compression test may be required. Engine run hours don't account for poor maintenance, engine abuse or corrosion. I hope this helps. Cheers
Hull license number: great tip. I caught an old 'FL' that used to be on a boat I was thinking about buying. Only then the seller mentioned it's history.
Great video, led me to subscribe. One thing you mention is that these issues aren't necessarily deal-breaking. Something I don't see in a lot of other "buying used boats" videos is the importance of each issue. If you could do a scale from 1-10 on the severity of each issue, that could help potential boat buyers a lot. Example: "(Scale 1: finding out the battery connections are worn is an easy fix that might cost you new batteries and cables, not much money. However, Scale 10: stay away from any boat that has had its engine sunk. This is uncrecoverable and will cost you thousands down the line).
Fantastic video but I second this- as someone who knows almost nothing about boats, I found it sometimes hard to know how bad each problem is as I haven't a clue what it would cost to repair etc.
What about that mould under the engine hatch? Inside storage compartments, test all electrical components, inspect transom and stringers for dampness, all tops/covers, safety gear included with boat, trailer…
Fantastic video, and the screw driver trick is the bomb! One thing I was surprised to see was no request for compression test, particularly important with 2-stroke motors. When I purchased my first boat I requested it (dealer purchase so they had done it already). This video should be a first time buyers first stop!
Thank you for these great videos. You do a great service to the boating community the world over with your tips and advice. Thank you for sharing your wealth of boating wisdom!!!
Thanks for sharing your fantastic video and for the good tips, I can really use it since I'm very novice in boats and trying to buy my first boat at age 74, my wife thinks that I'm crazy, regards and be safe my friend.
Ah, this is such a great comment! Thank you Jose, you are never to old to start boating and your wife is right....boating is a bit crazy an that why it is so amazing! ;-)
How about the rotten sunpad, the mold and mildew in the engine bay. Rotten stringers and motor mounts are possible. Although I believe that model may have fiberglass stringers.
Check all the fluids, including the steering fluid reservoir right? I bought a boat with under 100 hours on it. It was out of steering fluid. Luckily it was just never checked because when I added the fluid and ran the boat a couple times it held the fluid. Am I missing anything here?
Regarding sailboats, there is the usual concerns about the outboard or inboard engine. Most sailboat inboards are small Diesels. But watch out for older boats, who often had "Atomic 4" gasoline engines. They can be OK if well maintained and recently overhauled, but keep in mind these are considerably less valuable than a Diesel ($5-6k less resale). Many smaller, older sailboats have outboards that are 2 cycle. These also have less resale value, and are generally thought to be less reliable than 4 cycles. Make sure the outboard is the more expensive "long shaft" version... otherwise it will not push the boat efficiently, and "Reverse" will be terrible. Check to make sure the outboard motor lifting rig works (if present, a bracket that can be moved up or down). The outboard should not be too big for the boat, for instance a 20' sailboat does not need anything larger than about 6 horse, a 10 horse is too heavy for the stern (and sailboats have "hull speed" which cannot be exceeded anyway so extra power is a waste). Sometimes people stick some other outboard on there just to sell the boat. Check the "Liner" inside the cabin for cracks (a one piece mold usually). These cracks are somewhat common, from pounding in high seas, sitting on a trailer incorrectly, or simple manufacturing errors. These usually can be fixed easily but they should knock down a price. They grow over time like with actual glass. Drilling a hole in line with the crack usually stops them growing. Then there is the hull... Fiberglass can get blisters. Go along and pound on it every so often and listen and feel. Sometimes blisters can be visible. They are imperfections in the building process where layers of glass separate and fill with gas. Not always a deal breaker, but not desirable either (they are a bear to fix, and get worse over time). To save weight, some manufacturers such as Catalina made "cored" hulls where the inner core is not 'glass, but some lighter substance such as balsa or some kind of foamed plastic. These are much more prone to blisters than solid hulls (especially ones that are older than about 15 years, they have better processes now). Re-glassed areas: If you see an area on the hull that looks like it was re-glassed at some point, it probably means it was damaged somehow... Its a clue. You generally do not want to buy a boat that was damaged or sunk in a hurricane. Maybe it just hit something on the bow? Usually not that bad. But the fact that it is visible, points to it being fixed by an amateur.... pro's fair them out. Regarding the keel: Check where it joins the hull, there should be no gaps or cracks. Sometimes the keel pulls away or was otherwise damaged by running aground, and this causes leaks. An older boat can have bad-looking sails... not so bad, sails can be bought new or used from several places. The standing rigging can be worn out: Run your hands down the stainless cables, if you feel sharp snags it means broken wires and time to replace. Such things like the tiller or other wood work needing varnish are no big deal. If it has a Wheel, check to see it works. Crawl down and check the electrical system, if it looks all rusty... see above about hurricane boats. Its not horrible to re-wire most sailboats, though. Make sure it has a modern Head that works: Older boats may still have illegal discharge systems. Ripping it all out and putting in a self-contained camping toilet is a fairly cheap and easy way to fix it. Check the water and fuel tanks. Boats should usually come with anchors and chain; always ask about them, and what other equipment comes with the boat (bumpers, dock lines, etc.)... The worst they can do is say "no". ;)
New subscriber based on this vid thanks. Might buy used soon for Okanagan use. Vancouver guy here. Are you familiar with Calais? I built them from 85-88. When we got busy I’d help the glaziers roll out decks and hulls but 99% assembly of the 2. Gunnel moulding and trim. Plus install windshields upholstery seats steering electrical etc. Loved that work.
Having been in the Marine repair business since 2000 , hard to believe I have been in this industry that long. The No 1 advice I can give anybody when buying a boat is : LAKE TEST ,LAKE TEST , LAKE TEST! I have had so many people buy boats with out lake testing and being lied to by the seller and end up with a junk boat that they paid thousands of dollars too much for. I just makes me sick because people are trusting and some shady seller will lie through their teeth. If you call on a boat and tell the seller I want to lake test and the seller starts him ha ing around making excuses why he cant take you out for a lake test , then tell the seller well its apparent you are hiding something on the boat so I will take my money to a seller that isn't. Don't walk, run away from these kind of sellers. If you can do the work your self and he can start it up in the drive way with a flush attachment then maybe yes, but you are leaving yourself to cracks and leaks in the hull. If its a I/O pull the dip stick and check for milk shake . Ask the seller if you can crack the drain plug on the drive ? If he says no walk away . If he says yes just crack it and pull it out just barely and check for milk shake if it has shake it will cost thousands of dollars to reseal the drive .Pass on the boat if you cannot do the drive yourself it take special tools to set up and reaseal a stern drive. If there is no shake in the drive or engine then I would beat him down on the price if he wont lake test and you are taking it as is if you are going to do the work yourself . If you have to hire a Marine tech then pass on it . The repairs can exceed the value on the boat
How I check the "health" of any internal combustion engine is, take the oil cap off, flip it over and look at it. It represents in a way what the interior of the engine looks like. This is where you hopefully won't find the crud or milkshake residue. Also, smell the oil cap. It should basically smell like used oil. No burnt smell. So a healthy motor would indicate a fairly clean oil cap that smells like used motor oil.
That was a mistake I committed. I didn’t check the of the engine had rust or not, took it to the ocean ran great next thing you know the oil pan was rusted out all my oil was all over the place and the engine blew.
Most dealerships will do inspections for used third party boat sales (they'll usually charge a few hours of shop rate) (unless they have a company policy against). Best bet would be to find a dealer that sells the same make of boat (or similar boat or same engine manufacturer like Mercruiser, Indmar, Yamaha, Volvo, etc.). Might want to call a few shops and be price competitive, though.
No joke, if the engine has a "Fram" filter, look carefully at the oil to make sure there isn't any metal glitter in it. Those filters are notoriously bad and can even block off oil circulation as the bypass valve are not always working as intended. Also the filters (in general) can be used after they clog up, which bypasses the filtering, this is to prevent oil starvation. However if it's been that long in between oil changes for that to occur I would recommend against buying it. Also avoid milkshake oil, not everybody knows what that implies.
I look for the hole in the bottom that swallows all the money. Often you can find tens or thousands of dollars there, sometimes much more. The owners often confess that they know that boat stands for Bring Out Another Thousand" and I rarely have the heart to tell them that it actually stands for "Bend Over And Take it" It just doesn't feel polite.
Going to be honest, I’ve known a couple people buy a brand new wake boat which required repairs in the first season out. Not something you expect when spending 6 figures on a brand new boat!
Great vid Sean! I’m looking into getting a ‘07 Challenger 180 with 550 hours on the engine for 11700$ CAD (roughly 9k USD). Do you think it’s a good starter boat for me, and is 550 hour too much for a 13 year old boat? I’m just worried about mechanical expenses that might follow in the upcoming years. Thanks in advance
I assume you mean a Sea-doo Challenger? We have taken a number of Challenger's on trade over the years and have had "challenges" with every single one. Be cautious :-).
Ahhhh. Even from the best used boat dealers you truly don’t know know what your getting into even being a mechanic myself and all the procedures to make sure the boat is safe (Seaworthy) THE GAS GAUGE was from full to half full well I was on empty in the middle of the lake out of gas The other even though the batteries work and look healthy still replace them I came to the boat ramp to realize my batteries finally gave out. A sea ray 22.5 cuddly cabin so far that’s it 2001
Be sure to educate yourself before buying a used boat. This purchase has some hard work ahead but also really fun. Get everything you could possibly need to renovate your boat from a marine store.
D R I’m not sure if the comments section of a random RUclips video is the right place for you to come out of the closet and proclaim your sexual orientation, but to each his own.
If you're going to buy a boat you have to be sure it's something you want to do. And have all of your bases covered (where you'll store it, where you'll use it, etc) all planned out before buying. My family has loved our experience with boats but its not for everyone
Avoid all boats lol, unless you hate yourself or need one to make a living, they will all drain your bank account, waste your time and wear you down. I’ve owned many I can’t help myself.
Have you had any bad boat buying experiences that you can share with our viewers? What should they watch out for?
I just got a fellowship 27 and I got her mad cheap she was out of the water but it's my first boat I'm hoping it's not fucked
alex davies how is it
@@youngbuck3535 LMAO bruh i was about to ask the same thing. @alex can we get an update?
@@jackstone7170 Same here man. Just bought a 1996 Glastron dirt cheap. Now time to redo the inside
If when you take it for test drive, and it will not start at the dock, then walk away. Yes, this happened to me.
Excellent advice . Simple but very valuable. Buying my first boat, this will definitely come in handy. 👍🏻
Watch at 1.5 speed thank me later 😊
Never knew you could speed up the video's. Game changer! Thank you:)
It's normal now!!!
Omg 😲 yes yes.
Thanks
1.25 is perfect
i was going to look at videos about buying pre-own SUVs , don't know how i stumle to your video. And i learn a learn from your video, and will click subscribe now. and not even looking for boats.
You have increased my confidence one-thousandfold in looking at my next used boat. Great advice all around. Thanks ever so much for this terrific video. From your Great Lakes neighbor in Michigan.
My boat doesn't have an hour meter either but there is still a way to tell. Well, a couple ways. #1 when you turn the key to the run position before starting, the tach gauge jumps to the approximate number of hours in hundreds. So if it jumps to the 3k rpm mark, it means there is about 300 hours. #2 an engine scanner can tell the exact hours. So lookup the specific boat you're looking at and see if there's still a way to tell the hours if it doesn't have a meter.
Check for engine ware, whilst the engine is running lift the oil dip stick and check for combustion blowby which can indicate a worn engine. Engines are a big ticket item to rebuild or replace so additional checks like an engine compression test may be required. Engine run hours don't account for poor maintenance, engine abuse or corrosion. I hope this helps. Cheers
Hull license number: great tip. I caught an old 'FL' that used to be on a boat I was thinking about buying. Only then the seller mentioned it's history.
here also fl and i live in holland..exported i asked..yes
Great video, led me to subscribe. One thing you mention is that these issues aren't necessarily deal-breaking. Something I don't see in a lot of other "buying used boats" videos is the importance of each issue. If you could do a scale from 1-10 on the severity of each issue, that could help potential boat buyers a lot. Example: "(Scale 1: finding out the battery connections are worn is an easy fix that might cost you new batteries and cables, not much money. However, Scale 10: stay away from any boat that has had its engine sunk. This is uncrecoverable and will cost you thousands down the line).
That would be an interesting way to present it - I will give that some thought
Fantastic video but I second this- as someone who knows almost nothing about boats, I found it sometimes hard to know how bad each problem is as I haven't a clue what it would cost to repair etc.
Great videos you have, I'm late but good common sense info never gets old. peace
What about that mould under the engine hatch? Inside storage compartments, test all electrical components, inspect transom and stringers for dampness, all tops/covers, safety gear included with boat, trailer…
Nice job. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Our pleasure Rod!
Very informative! I wish I watched this clip before buying my boat, which turned out to be ok 😁
Glad you had a good experience:)
Fantastic video, and the screw driver trick is the bomb! One thing I was surprised to see was no request for compression test, particularly important with 2-stroke motors. When I purchased my first boat I requested it (dealer purchase so they had done it already). This video should be a first time buyers first stop!
Thank you for these great videos. You do a great service to the boating community the world over with your tips and advice. Thank you for sharing your wealth of boating wisdom!!!
Wow! Such kind words Mark, thank you!!!
Very professional video and extremely helpful. Thank you!
Thanks for sharing your fantastic video and for the good tips, I can really use it since I'm very novice in boats and trying to buy my first boat at age 74, my wife thinks that I'm crazy, regards and be safe my friend.
Ah, this is such a great comment! Thank you Jose, you are never to old to start boating and your wife is right....boating is a bit crazy an that why it is so amazing! ;-)
I'm buying my 1st voted 60yrs.
If you can't go crazy at 74, when CAN you go crazy? Enjoy I say.
Great source of information! Thank you!
Love this video, thank you for taking the time to make it.
Our pleasure Michael; glad it was helpful
Excellent video, I actually learned something new. Thanks
This is a great video very helpful. Thanks for putting it out there.
Good info - I like to see how much water comes out of the boat when it is being trailer-ed.. leak test
Thank you! This video was very helpful .!
Our pleasure Larry!
Thank you for such informational videos
Thank you for saying so Angela! Glad you found them helpful :-)
Thank you for the helpful information! :)
Our pleasure Carolyn!
How about the rotten sunpad, the mold and mildew in the engine bay. Rotten stringers and motor mounts are possible. Although I believe that model may have fiberglass stringers.
Thanks for posting this!
Check all the fluids, including the steering fluid reservoir right? I bought a boat with under 100 hours on it. It was out of steering fluid. Luckily it was just never checked because when I added the fluid and ran the boat a couple times it held the fluid. Am I missing anything here?
Regarding sailboats, there is the usual concerns about the outboard or inboard engine. Most sailboat inboards are small Diesels. But watch out for older boats, who often had "Atomic 4" gasoline engines. They can be OK if well maintained and recently overhauled, but keep in mind these are considerably less valuable than a Diesel ($5-6k less resale). Many smaller, older sailboats have outboards that are 2 cycle. These also have less resale value, and are generally thought to be less reliable than 4 cycles. Make sure the outboard is the more expensive "long shaft" version... otherwise it will not push the boat efficiently, and "Reverse" will be terrible. Check to make sure the outboard motor lifting rig works (if present, a bracket that can be moved up or down). The outboard should not be too big for the boat, for instance a 20' sailboat does not need anything larger than about 6 horse, a 10 horse is too heavy for the stern (and sailboats have "hull speed" which cannot be exceeded anyway so extra power is a waste). Sometimes people stick some other outboard on there just to sell the boat. Check the "Liner" inside the cabin for cracks (a one piece mold usually). These cracks are somewhat common, from pounding in high seas, sitting on a trailer incorrectly, or simple manufacturing errors. These usually can be fixed easily but they should knock down a price. They grow over time like with actual glass. Drilling a hole in line with the crack usually stops them growing.
Then there is the hull... Fiberglass can get blisters. Go along and pound on it every so often and listen and feel. Sometimes blisters can be visible. They are imperfections in the building process where layers of glass separate and fill with gas. Not always a deal breaker, but not desirable either (they are a bear to fix, and get worse over time). To save weight, some manufacturers such as Catalina made "cored" hulls where the inner core is not 'glass, but some lighter substance such as balsa or some kind of foamed plastic. These are much more prone to blisters than solid hulls (especially ones that are older than about 15 years, they have better processes now). Re-glassed areas: If you see an area on the hull that looks like it was re-glassed at some point, it probably means it was damaged somehow... Its a clue. You generally do not want to buy a boat that was damaged or sunk in a hurricane. Maybe it just hit something on the bow? Usually not that bad. But the fact that it is visible, points to it being fixed by an amateur.... pro's fair them out. Regarding the keel: Check where it joins the hull, there should be no gaps or cracks. Sometimes the keel pulls away or was otherwise damaged by running aground, and this causes leaks.
An older boat can have bad-looking sails... not so bad, sails can be bought new or used from several places. The standing rigging can be worn out: Run your hands down the stainless cables, if you feel sharp snags it means broken wires and time to replace. Such things like the tiller or other wood work needing varnish are no big deal. If it has a Wheel, check to see it works. Crawl down and check the electrical system, if it looks all rusty... see above about hurricane boats. Its not horrible to re-wire most sailboats, though. Make sure it has a modern Head that works: Older boats may still have illegal discharge systems. Ripping it all out and putting in a self-contained camping toilet is a fairly cheap and easy way to fix it. Check the water and fuel tanks. Boats should usually come with anchors and chain; always ask about them, and what other equipment comes with the boat (bumpers, dock lines, etc.)... The worst they can do is say "no". ;)
New subscriber based on this vid thanks. Might buy used soon for Okanagan use. Vancouver guy here. Are you familiar with Calais? I built them from 85-88. When we got busy I’d help the glaziers roll out decks and hulls but 99% assembly of the 2. Gunnel moulding and trim. Plus install windshields upholstery seats steering electrical etc. Loved that work.
when looking at the bottom of the hull what if there is bottom paint covering old repairs?
Good question. Have a survey done and ask for "soundings" and moisture readings
Any historical issues on a Merc 2004 2 stroke ELPT 40 hp ?
Thanks, for your sharing
Our pleasure!
Having been in the Marine repair business since 2000 , hard to believe I have been in this industry that long. The No 1 advice I can give anybody when buying a boat is : LAKE TEST ,LAKE TEST , LAKE TEST! I have had so many people buy boats with out lake testing and being lied to by the seller and end up with a junk boat that they paid thousands of dollars too much for. I just makes me sick because people are trusting and some shady seller will lie through their teeth. If you call on a boat and tell the seller I want to lake test and the seller starts him ha ing around making excuses why he cant take you out for a lake test , then tell the seller well its apparent you are hiding something on the boat so I will take my money to a seller that isn't. Don't walk, run away from these kind of sellers. If you can do the work your self and he can start it up in the drive way with a flush attachment then maybe yes, but you are leaving yourself to cracks and leaks in the hull. If its a I/O pull the dip stick and check for milk shake . Ask the seller if you can crack the drain plug on the drive ? If he says no walk away . If he says yes just crack it and pull it out just barely and check for milk shake if it has shake it will cost thousands of dollars to reseal the drive .Pass on the boat if you cannot do the drive yourself it take special tools to set up and reaseal a stern drive. If there is no shake in the drive or engine then I would beat him down on the price if he wont lake test and you are taking it as is if you are going to do the work yourself . If you have to hire a Marine tech then pass on it . The repairs can exceed the value on the boat
Idk if you sell any Yamaha jet boats, but if you do, could you make another video on what to look for on used jet drive boats?
We have a pros and cons one coming...not exactly what you are looking for though
Thank you very much.
Great vid, thank you! What boat brands are good? What brands should I stay away from?
There aren’t any specific boat brands that I can say are definitely “bad” I guess it’s all personal preference.
Aristotle said: “Water is the worst thing for a boat.”
What problems will I have installing a short shaft outboard engine 15 inch shaft on a 21 inch transom?
Do NOT do that. The propeller will not be able to properly engage with enough water and it will perform terribly!
How I check the "health" of any internal combustion engine is, take the oil cap off, flip it over and look at it. It represents in a way what the interior of the engine looks like. This is where you hopefully won't find the crud or milkshake residue. Also, smell the oil cap. It should basically smell like used oil. No burnt smell. So a healthy motor would indicate a fairly clean oil cap that smells like used motor oil.
Thanks for your video.
Great info. Thanks. Havagudun bud.
That was a mistake I committed. I didn’t check the of the engine had rust or not, took it to the ocean ran great next thing you know the oil pan was rusted out all my oil was all over the place and the engine blew.
so... if i'm looking for cracking... and i find it... what does it tell me?
The more research I do the more I’m convinced that owning a boat is definitely one of my greatest most greatest wishes not to BUY
What till you research vehicles lmao... get a small aluminum shell first if you are worried about $. No one said boating is cheap lmao
What if there are small cracks in the fiberglass on the top
A few here and there are normal. Huge areas of them ones that have a definite pattern are a problem
Youre awesome thank you!!! and funny jokes too
Great tips!
Is there a licensed boat inspector can be hired for a complete inspection report??
Most dealerships will do inspections for used third party boat sales (they'll usually charge a few hours of shop rate) (unless they have a company policy against). Best bet would be to find a dealer that sells the same make of boat (or similar boat or same engine manufacturer like Mercruiser, Indmar, Yamaha, Volvo, etc.). Might want to call a few shops and be price competitive, though.
So helpful, thanks!
Our pleasure :-)
Any chance you could do a similar video on a larger boat (if you deal with them)?
Dean, yes - it is on our agenda for a future video :-)
At what price point, size, or displacement would you suggest moving past having a friend check the boat over to having a full-blown survey?
The only guaranteed protection against these boat issues is to have friends with boats
Not always helpful. I have friends who have boats but have no clue
No joke, if the engine has a "Fram" filter, look carefully at the oil to make sure there isn't any metal glitter in it. Those filters are notoriously bad and can even block off oil circulation as the bypass valve are not always working as intended. Also the filters (in general) can be used after they clog up, which bypasses the filtering, this is to prevent oil starvation. However if it's been that long in between oil changes for that to occur I would recommend against buying it. Also avoid milkshake oil, not everybody knows what that implies.
I look for the hole in the bottom that swallows all the money.
Often you can find tens or thousands of dollars there, sometimes much more.
The owners often confess that they know that boat stands for Bring Out Another Thousand" and I rarely have the heart to tell them that it actually stands for "Bend Over And Take it"
It just doesn't feel polite.
lmao good one
Going to be honest, I’ve known a couple people buy a brand new wake boat which required repairs in the first season out. Not something you expect when spending 6 figures on a brand new boat!
Thanks
Our pleasure!
Great vid Sean! I’m looking into getting a ‘07 Challenger 180 with 550 hours on the engine for 11700$ CAD (roughly 9k USD). Do you think it’s a good starter boat for me, and is 550 hour too much for a 13 year old boat? I’m just worried about mechanical expenses that might follow in the upcoming years.
Thanks in advance
I assume you mean a Sea-doo Challenger? We have taken a number of Challenger's on trade over the years and have had "challenges" with every single one. Be cautious :-).
@@boatinglessons what kind of challenges have you seen? I see you have a used Challenger on your lot now.
Interesting video I liked this video yes!!!!👍😅
Thank you 😊
Look to see if they use FRAM oil filters…..! At 6:20
I always tell people "Take the owner you are purchasing from out on a ride in the boat with you"!
Like Fredo in The Godfather ?
@@jckdnls9292 😂😂😂😂
O
Good tips
"Touch them and squeeze them, make sure their soft and supple"
He talked me out of buying a boat thank you
That wasn’t the goal! Sorry if we scared you off - we like being transparent
Not you didn't scare me I just don't want to deal with rectum holes
Ahhhh. Even from the best used boat dealers you truly don’t know know what your getting into even being a mechanic myself and all the procedures to make sure the boat is safe (Seaworthy)
THE GAS GAUGE was from full to half full well I was on empty in the middle of the lake out of gas
The other even though the batteries work and look healthy still replace them I came to the boat ramp to realize my batteries finally gave out. A sea ray 22.5 cuddly cabin so far that’s it 2001
They put a FRAM oil filter on that engine? That’s practically a disqualification right there!
These are the exact steps I take when choosing a new girlfriend.
What about bust size is bigger better 44dd or go home
Single?
C R not after following these steps!!!
@@SonnyGTA 😂
Make sure it's not salvage title, or been rear ended 😂
i cant help but think this guys boat must be immaculate
improper mixing of the foam floatation will absorb water you could have a 1000 LBS. of water and no flotation!
Good one, and totally true
what a fantastic video, i shouldnt be viewing this for free
You deserve it buddy
Be sure to educate yourself before buying a used boat. This purchase has some hard work ahead but also really fun. Get everything you could possibly need to renovate your boat from a marine store.
Sage advice Eva :)
My dad told me once, that the best of day of his life was when he bought his boat..
And 2nd best day was when he got rid of it.
D R I’m not sure if the comments section of a random RUclips video is the right place for you to come out of the closet and proclaim your sexual orientation, but to each his own.
If you're going to buy a boat you have to be sure it's something you want to do. And have all of your bases covered (where you'll store it, where you'll use it, etc) all planned out before buying. My family has loved our experience with boats but its not for everyone
I have seen a lot of you presentations there ok but you always state the most simple things why not talk about stringer rot or say get surveyed
⭐
Boats cant be cheap to buy. * me who bought a 1972 Cruisers Vacationer for 500 bucks*
Instead of leaving the camera on the man, more attention should be given to the boat- not the narrator!
I keep saying to my editor that “no one wants to watch me” lol
I want a used boat.
Don’t buy at the boat show and don’t trust the warranty
Wiring and wiring. Oh and wiring.
Maybe should buy new😱
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Avoid all boats lol, unless you hate yourself or need one to make a living, they will all drain your bank account, waste your time and wear you down. I’ve owned many I can’t
help myself.
My point is simple ..If you don't know what to look for when buying a used boat , then you shouldn't be buying a boat in the first place
You set your vid to monetize trying to get rich & sh_t brah
Never buy a inboard engine boat
Very informative. Thank you!!!!