Brian.. you are the only guy who has provided real.. useful information on these damn washers. I inherited a rather expensive karcher a year a Ago.. but hesitated to try to fix it due to lack of maintence info. Your video was the first of hundred that actually described that there are 3 types of uploaders.. and what mine is called... u have watched hundreds of videos with very little useful info. I just installed a new iploadre... and it isn't full power.. then bamm... I just so happen to catch this video on how to Increase pressure to max... no instructions came wit loader to explain this. In all this time I hardly found any info or instructions that techs would use to fix these things thanks!!!!@
good to see and have explained what i have to work with. purchased almost 15 years ago, and the unloader valve hasnt worked in... 10 or more. can pumps, that are rebuildable, be purchased from a vendor? if so, what vendor. *if it's you, even better!
@@Brian_the_repair_guy My uploader hose broke and I need to replace it. I tried to find replacement hose but can’t find one that fits. What hose did you clamp on yours with the hose clamps? Does it stand up to the pressures?
@@JakeRice-qu4rm the unloader hose Does not need to be high pressure. A standard reinforced hose with the correct inside diameter. Lowes or Home Depot will have it.
Thanks, Brian, for your support I will try that tomorrow. However, I did try running the pressure washer without engaging trigger yesterday and I looked inside the tank no water was returning I have a clear hose running from the pressure washer to the buffer tank so I should be able to see if water is coming it's coming out of the unloader do you thank the unloader has taken a dive. I do know that the seals need to be replace I see mike in the pump oil
Do you happen have a video on setting an unloader? I got a new pump with a VRT an it seems really high pressure. So many show different ways of doing it.
Hi Brian. thank you for the master techniques that you show on rebuilding AAA water pump seals. question is, after you put both washers on place, then you put the copper head with the smaller rubber washer. What I have notice is that between the manifold and the top copper head with the smaller rubber washer, there are small holes on the main manifold and the top copper with the last washer, hope you understand what I mean. are those 2 holes have to match and be on line with one another?. thank you.
Without the trigger pulled. If you pull the trigger and set the pressure, your pressure will increase once the trigger is released. Could be too high and stall the engine
Hey Brian what would make a pressure washer engine be heavily loaded? Bought a new unloaded VHP39 for my 5.5 gpm 5000 psi. Using correct orifice but the pressure washer feels as if I have a 2.5 orifice. Motor bogs down real hard and is under a big load. Pressure gauge only reads 3000 psi. No blocks in hose or lance.
Does a Cat 4DNX25GSI have the unloader built into the pump? It looks like it does. How long can this pump run without the spray wand being used at full throttle before overheating? Appreciate the information on pressure washer pumps. You make it understandable.
Yes, this model has the unloader built in. I will not give a time frame on how long the pump can run without using the wand before overheating. There are too many variables to consider to give an accurate time frame. I don't like more than about 2 minutes max. I have a video that explains this and shows how hot and how fast they heat up.
What pressure are you running? Disconnect the bypass hose from the unloader and run it without pulling the trigger. Does water come out of the unloader?
So let me ask this if I take the black hose from the bottom off the unloader and set it into a buffer tank would it work then and how do I seal the bottom of dark unloader where the hose used to be. Thank you
You can take the unloader hose loose from the inlet side. Install a plug where the hose connected. Run the hose to your tank. Replace the thermal dump with another plug
Hey Brian, quick question, does the Bolt-On unloaded have a bypass that I can connect a hose to so that it runs back into the water, or is that feature only for the external unloaded? I’m confused
I can not speak for all bolt on unloaders. In my experience, I have never seen a bolt on that has the option to connect a return hose. Just the external unloader
I'm currently having issues where I'm not building up any pressure and not getting any water I think it's an issue with my unloader i have a external unloader i ordered a new one online but any advice?
If you have no water coming out of the pressure side, then most likely you have a clog just behind the quick connect fitting. Remove the fitting and ensure the bullet shaped valve is clean of debris
Hi i have AR RSV 3G30 pump, 3000 PSI with 2.5 GPM. I want to change unloader valve nothing wrong with that it is 15 years old, doing some basic maint, changing all valve kit, low and high pressure seal etc.. question to you is, 1) does the PSI is based on the pump or based on engine.. i have GX200 engine .. 2) is it mandate i have to go with same AR unloader or simpson or anyother brand is ok as well ?..
The engine will dictate the maximum psi. The engine will shut down with pressure too high. You can use any unloader that will match the bolt pattern on the head
I have a Simpson water shotgun commercial power washer. I allowed my next door neighbor to borrow it. I went over and got him started I turned on the water got the motor started and everything was fine. A few minutes later he came back over to me and said he had no pressure. Apparently he decided to stop so he turned off the motor and then turned off the water. When he came back out to start again he only started the motor and forgot to turn on the water on first. When he had no pressure he came and got me, and told me what he had done. So I went through the procedure again turn the water on started it and had a water flow but no pressure. This is not a cheap power washer. What are your suggestions?? Thanks in advance for your help!
Brian, my unloader, the + and - do not work. Took unit apart and the spring looks ok and ball stem moves in and out. When starting the pressure washer the water pressure is ok without hose connected. Turning the unloader + does not increase the pressure. Is this normal? Thanks
You should have an increase and decrease with the unloader. Catch me on Facebook at Bruan Shumack the repair guy and I can better help you same background as RUclips
Kinda a dumb question, what type of pipe did you have on your EZ4040G pump for the low pressure water, mine recently snapped the connection and i have no idea what to search for
@@mercenary1485 www.watercannon.com/product/1125/clear-inlet-filter-flow-thru-34-in-fght-inlet-12-in-male-out-8gpm This is the part. It has a filter. You can get it without the filter. You will also need a barb, size based on the return hose. They can help you with that part also
Brian, . when i set the unloader, i did it with white tip for around 2500 PSI, then when i changed the tip to Dewalt turbo nozzle, the PSI jumped to 3000 psi.. is that normal.. in otherwords, what size tip should i choose to set the PSI on unloader.
Your turbo tip and the red tip (0 degree) will give you the highest pressure. I set the pressure with those. They should give you closest to the maximum pelressure on the machine.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy Thanks Brain. i did the same, i was told that i should chooose orfice correctly based on GPM and PSI. mine is 3000 psi with 2.5 gpm that comes to 3.0 orfice.. does orfice is super imporatnt.. i guess so.
I think there’s an issue with my unloader. I have the inline style. It’s very hard to start my machine without relieving pressure. Unable to pull the cord. I try to adjust the unloader and it will not turn. Any idea where to start?
There are "fixed" style unloaders, they do not adjust. If yours is adjustable, then it may be frozen. You can purchase a pressure relief valve that will make starting easier
Mr. Brian. My name is Javier. I have an AAA 4200 PSI 4.0 GPM Belt Drive pump, it's not external, it's a whole piece, I can't put a Bypass on the buffer tank to cool it, my question is, can I change the pump or the head and put another brand and change the amount of GPM. In order to put a ByPass
I am going to start in this business and I get carried away by the videos on RUclips and I bought this Simpson 4200 PSI belt drive 4.0 GPM machine without knowing, I had that pump now I don't know what to do, I know that the bypass is important, and what could you recommend? to be able to bypass that machine, or is it to change the pump or the equipment (W/P)
@@javierruiz8318 honestly, there isn't much you can do to that pump in order to set up an external bypass. If the external is what you want, I like them very much, I would suggest replacing the pump. It will be pricey. In fact, you may look at purchasing another washer altogether and use the current unit as a back up. MiTM makes a great belt drive with Honda engine and General pump with external. Most cost effective is to replace pump. Make sure the replacement will bolt to the frame without mods and the pump is fully plumbed
Thank you very much Mr. Brian for the information and I will take your suggestions as law Thank you. And by the way I have learned a lot from your videos, they are very precise.
Yes, it is very easy to do. You would need a water hose fitting, one like you see in the video is good. Has a screen filter that is easily removed for cleaning and a male nipple to connect the external to the head.
my EZ-CLEAN had the banjo style on it, I removed it 2 yrs ago and went with the external, I even added a ball valve on the pump to open up to relieve water pressure on the pump for easy starting. my EZ-CLEAN is a whole different machine now ..
Good video thanks. I just bought a ar pump 4000psi 4gpm, what could cause my unit to loose pressure while you are using it intermittently. Is a ar pump a good pump? I bought it for the gx390
Need some help. I inherited a karcher 9000g washer. I repl all 6 pump valves..corrosion..I repl both wheels.. installed tank for detergent. Repl uploader.. the washer starts great.. I put a pressure gauge inline as it so important to know this info..the pressure goes to 3k.. but when I pull trigger.. gauge drops to zero.. what could cause this???
@@MrJS0972 your high pressure gauge typically will not show the water pressure from the hose when the valves have a problem. That pressure difference is too low for that gauge
Hello on minute 7:49 you are touching a valve with your thumb, I need to order it but I don't know what is the part number. Mine broke and I'll like to know if I can plug it or replace it? What is this valvefor? Thanks for your videos 😊😊
That is the thermal dump. You can plug it, but I don't really reccomend that. If it is 1/4" it is MiTM part number 22-0408 or watercannon.com part number is 20.0069 if it is not 1/4" then the part numbers are different
@@erinsonduran6663 when using the machine, do not let it run for more than a minute or 2 with out pulling the trigger. This let's the hot water out to prevent over heating.
@@SuperDoeboy77 some of the pumps on a box store pressure washer have bolt on style unloaders. This would allow you to safely replace it with an external bypass. If the unloader in not removable, I would be hard pressed to see how it could be replaced safely
I do not live in California. It would cost you way to much just to travel to me. What is the problem you are having, maybe we can figure it out and you can order your parts and repair yourself
@@Brian_the_repair_guy oh,i see. My by pass valve is leaking water all over the place,it has a little whole,just by the outer o ring,and it started to leak the water from ther,istead of goig back to the pump
What happens when an unloader fails ? for instance a bypass has a blockage and the pressurised water has no where to go ? does it just burst the pump seals ? or does it try to find its way out of a pressure / valve cap or just fracture the cylinder head ? or find the next weakness a ruptured hose I look at these pumps and wonder why there is no additional safety release valve .. I assume cost Does it try and stall the engine ? or as its direct drive does it just tear the shaft / key is that a kill switch on the unloader if it was fitted with an electric motor ? I wonder how many people just buy a replacement unloader valve and just fit it and not set to correct working pressure Dangerous
The engines on these machine will only allow the pressure to rise so much before the engine stalls. The pumps are typically rated for 3 times their stated pressure. The engines can't come close to this, so they stall. If a fitting or gasket were to fail, it would be due to a worn or damaged part
@@Brian_the_repair_guy I borrowed a neighbors Westinghouse 3200psi washer today, and immediately, something was wrong with it. Would start right up, but within 2-3 seconds it would load right up and stall the engine. If you held the trigger on the wand, it would run all day, but as soon as you released it, engine would stall right out. It has a different style of unloader, it's held in with a U shaped clip. There's no knob on it, just a nut to adjust how much the spring is compressed. I pulled that out, to visually inspect it, and everything looked clean and practically brand new. I put a dab of grease on the o-rings, and put it back together. Started it up to test, immediately loaded up the engine, only this time, it built enough pressure before it stalled, to completely force the plastic hose connector off the wand, stripping the threads entirely off. The hose smacked me in the leg, and left a very significant bruise. I'm convinced something is wrong with the unloader, but I'm hesitant to try any more troubleshooting. Obviously this thing was capable of building some pretty significant pressure, not sure I want to find out what the next weak point is. Any thoughts or ideas?
@@ericcheeseman8144 you are definitely getting far too much pressure. When the trigger is pulled, the pump is in effect leaking, so it can't build but just so much pressure. When the trigger is released, the pressure builds and the unloader dumps off to the low pressure side to prevent excessive pressure. When the unloader fails, or is set too high, the pressure builds until the engine stalls or failure of a part. At this point, I would not suggest any other work being done except by a certified shop. The pump has been stressed and should be thoroughly checked. I don't feel the excessive pressure was do to the user, it just happened to fail at that time.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy Thanks for the reply. They hadn't used it since last year....I'm guessing it got put away wet, and freezing temps in winter affected the unloader. Either way, I'll be calling a local small engine shop in the morning. I'd probably investigate further, but it's not mine, and I'd prefer not to make anything worse lol.
You need to adjust pressure using a gauge, not listening to the engine. It's more important to know the maximum operating pressure of the lowest rated accessory and use a gauge to set the pressure. Otherwise, good info.
I agree, the pressure should be set with a gauge. In a perfect world it would happen. In most situations, guys are not going to purchase a high pressure gauge to set the unloader one or 2 times in the life of the machine. So, I explain how to set these without a gauge. You wouldn't want to set the gauge based on the lowest rated accessories. Doing this would prevent the higher rated accessories from working properly. You want the pressure set as high as the engine and pump will safely operate. Adjust down for the lower pressure accessories
A radiator is defined as "1.a thing that radiates or emits light, heat or sound." Since the rubber allows the transfer of heat into the ambient air, the hose qualifies as a radiator. If you disagree with the technical definition, feel free to elaborate
@@Brian_the_repair_guy This hose will emit 2-3% of heat from pump recirculating water at full speed, you get people wrong saying 1 ft of rubber makes any difference.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy Yes i do, brass is at least 400 times more heat conductive than NBR/EPDM rubber. Typical triplex pump running on 3400 RPM will consume 15-20% of power on pure friction converted to heat. During bypass pressure is lower so are the friction losses, about 10% of power and also all the heat from thermal conductivity of shaft, pump flange, heat radiated from engine and also hot air cooling engine. By adding 1ft of rubber hose you add thermal capcity for few seconds but ZERO thermal conductivity to air. For 10kW pump you would have to dump 1,2 to 1,5kW, in stagnant air heat exchange from copper tube with water is ~250W per square meter with 5*C dT. To fully emit that power u need 5m2 of copper surface, good luck with that. Remember when pump is not at bypass its fully cooled by water, when cooling stops all that heat builds up in oil, crankshafts, plungers up to the head.
@@krzysiek524 I am not arguing that there are better heat conductors. In a standard bolt on, you have less than one inch of low pressure transition before the water is reintroduced to the pump. Very little heat dissipation occurs in that one inch. The 16" of hose from the unloader to the reintroduction into the pump allows more time for the water to cool. As I explain in the video, some reduction is better than none. The hose stills acts as a radiator. Take note to number 2 reason for an external bypass versus a bolt on or banjo style. www.pressurewashersonline.com/pages/why-external-unloader-valve
Кино
Brian.. you are the only guy who has provided real.. useful information on these damn washers. I inherited a rather expensive karcher a year a
Ago.. but hesitated to try to fix it due to lack of maintence info. Your video was the first of hundred that actually described that there are 3 types of uploaders.. and what mine is called... u have watched hundreds of videos with very little useful info. I just installed a new iploadre... and it isn't full power.. then bamm... I just so happen to catch this video on how to Increase pressure to max... no instructions came wit loader to explain this. In all this time I hardly found any info or instructions that techs would use to fix these things thanks!!!!@
I am glad this was helpful to you
Awesome videos. !! Thank you for these
Excellent video. Thanks.
good to see and have explained what i have to work with. purchased almost 15 years ago, and the unloader valve hasnt worked in... 10 or more. can pumps, that are rebuildable, be purchased from a vendor? if so, what vendor. *if it's you, even better!
Great video's! Appreciate ya!!
I appreciate you
Hi Brian, thanks for your explanition this is one i call profefesional man! now I undartand .
Thank you, hope it was helpful
@@Brian_the_repair_guy My uploader hose broke and I need to replace it. I tried to find replacement hose but can’t find one that fits. What hose did you clamp on yours with the hose clamps? Does it stand up to the pressures?
@@JakeRice-qu4rm the unloader hose Does not need to be high pressure. A standard reinforced hose with the correct inside diameter. Lowes or Home Depot will have it.
Thanks, Brian, for your support I will try that tomorrow. However, I did try running the pressure washer without engaging trigger yesterday and I looked inside the tank no water was returning I have a clear hose running from the pressure washer to the buffer tank so I should be able to see if water is coming it's coming out of the unloader do you thank the unloader has taken a dive. I do know that the seals need to be replace I see mike in the pump oil
😅 pop lo😅😅😅
Do you happen have a video on setting an unloader? I got a new pump with a VRT an it seems really high pressure. So many show different ways of doing it.
Hi Brian. thank you for the master techniques that you show on rebuilding AAA water pump seals. question is, after you put both washers on place, then you put the copper head with the smaller rubber washer. What I have notice is that between the manifold and the top copper head with the smaller rubber washer, there are small holes on the main manifold and the top copper with the last washer, hope you understand what I mean. are those 2 holes have to match and be on line with one another?.
thank you.
No, they do not
Hey Brian, do you adjust the pressure while holding the trigger on the wand( with the tip) or running without the trigger? Thanks
Without the trigger pulled. If you pull the trigger and set the pressure, your pressure will increase once the trigger is released. Could be too high and stall the engine
Hey Brian what would make a pressure washer engine be heavily loaded? Bought a new unloaded VHP39 for my 5.5 gpm 5000 psi. Using correct orifice but the pressure washer feels as if I have a 2.5 orifice. Motor bogs down real hard and is under a big load. Pressure gauge only reads 3000 psi. No blocks in hose or lance.
The gauge shows 3000 on a 5000 psi machine and it sounds like the engine is under a heavy load? What size engine and where is the gauge located?
Good job .nice video.
Hope it helps
Does a Cat 4DNX25GSI have the unloader built into the pump? It looks like it does. How long can this pump run without the spray wand being used at full throttle before overheating? Appreciate the information on pressure washer pumps. You make it understandable.
Yes, this model has the unloader built in. I will not give a time frame on how long the pump can run without using the wand before overheating. There are too many variables to consider to give an accurate time frame. I don't like more than about 2 minutes max. I have a video that explains this and shows how hot and how fast they heat up.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy Thanks, Brian. I watched that video. Keep up the great videos.
@@CTSCAPER thank you, hope they help
Brian I can start the engine on my Honda GX690 spray water out of the gun, but no water is in the hose coming from the pressure washer bypass.
What pressure are you running? Disconnect the bypass hose from the unloader and run it without pulling the trigger. Does water come out of the unloader?
Great thanks!
Hope it helps
great video my question is why I cannot get my bypass to return water back to my buffer tank.I am running a Honda GX690
Are you asking can you bypass to a buffer tank or are you asking why is it not going to the tank
So let me ask this if I take the black hose from the bottom off the unloader and set it into a buffer tank
would it work then and how do I seal the bottom of dark unloader where the hose used to be. Thank you
You can take the unloader hose loose from the inlet side. Install a plug where the hose connected. Run the hose to your tank. Replace the thermal dump with another plug
I'd love to change my bolt-on unloader to an external setup so I can just run the bypass line to the ground. Got a video on doing that swap?
Sorry I missed this request. I will make a video this week to show how it is done.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy yes please :)
Hey Brian, quick question, does the Bolt-On unloaded have a bypass that I can connect a hose to so that it runs back into the water, or is that feature only for the external unloaded? I’m confused
I can not speak for all bolt on unloaders. In my experience, I have never seen a bolt on that has the option to connect a return hose. Just the external unloader
@@Brian_the_repair_guy thanks so much
I'm currently having issues where I'm not building up any pressure and not getting any water I think it's an issue with my unloader i have a external unloader i ordered a new one online but any advice?
If you have no water coming out of the pressure side, then most likely you have a clog just behind the quick connect fitting. Remove the fitting and ensure the bullet shaped valve is clean of debris
On that hose that dumps the water back to the input, if you are using a tank, could that be run back to the tank?
Yes, just plug the hole at the input return
Hi i have AR RSV 3G30 pump, 3000 PSI with 2.5 GPM. I want to change unloader valve nothing wrong with that it is 15 years old, doing some basic maint, changing all valve kit, low and high pressure seal etc.. question to you is,
1) does the PSI is based on the pump or based on engine.. i have GX200 engine ..
2) is it mandate i have to go with same AR unloader or simpson or anyother brand is ok as well ?..
The engine will dictate the maximum psi. The engine will shut down with pressure too high.
You can use any unloader that will match the bolt pattern on the head
Can u put an unloader down stream from the cheap box store style. So u can Circulate the water and not heat the head up.
If the unloader is built on to the head, no. If the unloader is a bolt on style, yes.
I have a Simpson water shotgun commercial power washer. I allowed my next door neighbor to borrow it. I went over and got him started I turned on the water got the motor started and everything was fine. A few minutes later he came back over to me and said he had no pressure. Apparently he decided to stop so he turned off the motor and then turned off the water. When he came back out to start again he only started the motor and forgot to turn on the water on first. When he had no pressure he came and got me, and told me what he had done. So I went through the procedure again turn the water on started it and had a water flow but no pressure. This is not a cheap power washer. What are your suggestions?? Thanks in advance for your help!
Can you find me on Facebook. There will be a lot of back and forth on this one. Use my name from YT to find me
Brian, my unloader, the + and - do not work. Took unit apart and the spring looks ok and ball stem moves in and out. When starting the pressure washer the water pressure is ok without hose connected. Turning the unloader + does not increase the pressure. Is this normal? Thanks
You should have an increase and decrease with the unloader.
Catch me on Facebook at Bruan Shumack the repair guy and I can better help you same background as RUclips
Kinda a dumb question, what type of pipe did you have on your EZ4040G pump for the low pressure water, mine recently snapped the connection and i have no idea what to search for
Are you asking about the water hose inlet for the pump?
@@Brian_the_repair_guy yes i am, ive got an external bypass and cannot find another brass bit to save my life
@@mercenary1485 you are installing an external unloader and you need the water inlet? I will get you a part number and source
@@mercenary1485 www.watercannon.com/product/1125/clear-inlet-filter-flow-thru-34-in-fght-inlet-12-in-male-out-8gpm
This is the part. It has a filter. You can get it without the filter. You will also need a barb, size based on the return hose. They can help you with that part also
I have a portotenicia elite with an inter pump motor won't start would it be the capacitor
I am sorry. That one is out of my wheel house
Brian, . when i set the unloader, i did it with white tip for around 2500 PSI, then when i changed the tip to Dewalt turbo nozzle, the PSI jumped to 3000 psi.. is that normal.. in otherwords, what size tip should i choose to set the PSI on unloader.
Your turbo tip and the red tip (0 degree) will give you the highest pressure. I set the pressure with those. They should give you closest to the maximum pelressure on the machine.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy Thanks Brain. i did the same, i was told that i should chooose orfice correctly based on GPM and PSI. mine is 3000 psi with 2.5 gpm that comes to 3.0 orfice.. does orfice is super imporatnt.. i guess so.
@@sivucit yes, orifice size makes a big difference. Must be correct to the pump
Can you tell me where to buy the external for a general pump tt2035 model please?
You can order on line at watercannon.com or many Sherwin Williams stores have access to the unloader
Thank you
I think there’s an issue with my unloader. I have the inline style. It’s very hard to start my machine without relieving pressure. Unable to pull the cord. I try to adjust the unloader and it will not turn. Any idea where to start?
There are "fixed" style unloaders, they do not adjust. If yours is adjustable, then it may be frozen. You can purchase a pressure relief valve that will make starting easier
Mr. Brian. My name is Javier. I have an AAA 4200 PSI 4.0 GPM Belt Drive pump, it's not external, it's a whole piece, I can't put a Bypass on the buffer tank to cool it, my question is, can I change the pump or the head and put another brand and change the amount of GPM.
In order to put a ByPass
Short answer is yes you can change the pump. Long answer is yes you can but it will be a bit costly to do so.
I am going to start in this business and I get carried away by the videos on RUclips and I bought this Simpson 4200 PSI belt drive 4.0 GPM machine without knowing, I had that pump now I don't know what to do, I know that the bypass is important, and what could you recommend? to be able to bypass that machine, or is it to change the pump or the equipment (W/P)
@@javierruiz8318 honestly, there isn't much you can do to that pump in order to set up an external bypass.
If the external is what you want, I like them very much, I would suggest replacing the pump.
It will be pricey. In fact, you may look at purchasing another washer altogether and use the current unit as a back up.
MiTM makes a great belt drive with Honda engine and General pump with external.
Most cost effective is to replace pump. Make sure the replacement will bolt to the frame without mods and the pump is fully plumbed
Thank you very much Mr. Brian for the information and I will take your suggestions as law
Thank you.
And by the way I have learned a lot from your videos, they are very precise.
@@javierruiz8318 I am very glad to help
If a banjo style unloader ever needs to be replaced can a external bypass unloader be mounted on instead?
Yes, it is very easy to do. You would need a water hose fitting, one like you see in the video is good. Has a screen filter that is easily removed for cleaning and a male nipple to connect the external to the head.
my EZ-CLEAN had the banjo style on it, I removed it 2 yrs ago and went with the external, I even added a ball valve on the pump to open up to relieve water pressure on the pump for easy starting. my EZ-CLEAN is a whole different machine now ..
@@kenwimmer3936 I much prefer the external unloaders over bolt on, the valve is a good touch. I usually reccomend them on the bigger machines.
Good video thanks. I just bought a ar pump 4000psi 4gpm, what could cause my unit to loose pressure while you are using it intermittently. Is a ar pump a good pump? I bought it for the gx390
Need some help. I inherited a karcher 9000g washer. I repl all 6 pump valves..corrosion..I repl both wheels.. installed tank for detergent. Repl uploader.. the washer starts great.. I put a pressure gauge inline as it so important to know this info..the pressure goes to 3k.. but when I pull trigger.. gauge drops to zero.. what could cause this???
My first thought is the valve is stuck. Even though they are new, a piece of trash could be stuck in one of the valves
@@Brian_the_repair_guy one more point...the pressure gauge drops to zero.. but water pressure hose pressure stays the same
@@MrJS0972 your high pressure gauge typically will not show the water pressure from the hose when the valves have a problem. That pressure difference is too low for that gauge
The pump u said that is built in, Can it be plumbed?
If the unloader is built in, meaning it can not physically be removed from the head for total replacement, then no you can not plumbed in.
can you run the hose back to a water tank instead or just let it run on the ground???
Yes. You will need to plug the intake fitting on the low pressure side
ok thanks..
Hello on minute 7:49 you are touching a valve with your thumb, I need to order it but I don't know what is the part number. Mine broke and I'll like to know if I can plug it or replace it? What is this valvefor? Thanks for your videos 😊😊
That is the thermal dump. You can plug it, but I don't really reccomend that. If it is 1/4" it is MiTM part number 22-0408 or watercannon.com part number is 20.0069 if it is not 1/4" then the part numbers are different
@@Brian_the_repair_guy thanks 😊 it is bigger than 1/4". But what could happen if I plug it?
@@erinsonduran6663 when using the machine, do not let it run for more than a minute or 2 with out pulling the trigger. This let's the hot water out to prevent over heating.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy ok 👍 thanks a lot for your help. Already ordered
Can you regulate these pumps to 300 psi @ 3-4gpm? How could we do it?
The oumos can be adjusted up or down with the unloader. Specific target pressures will vary by pump. Adjust it down and see what you get. Use a gauge
I have that same Ar pump with built in unloader… can’t I add a bypass hose to it?
If your unloader is a bolt on style like this, you can replace it with a remote style unloader with the bypass hose
I seen a guy hooked an external unloader into the box store u mention n seem to work
@@SuperDoeboy77 some of the pumps on a box store pressure washer have bolt on style unloaders. This would allow you to safely replace it with an external bypass. If the unloader in not removable, I would be hard pressed to see how it could be replaced safely
Can I install an external unloader to an internal one so that I do a bypass?
If you have a bolt on unloader, then you can replace it with an external bypass.
Do you have the shut off valve for sale?
Can i bring to you my pressure washer?
How much you charge to fix it?
I live in California
I do not live in California. It would cost you way to much just to travel to me. What is the problem you are having, maybe we can figure it out and you can order your parts and repair yourself
@@Brian_the_repair_guy oh,i see.
My by pass valve is leaking water all over the place,it has a little whole,just by the outer o ring,and it started to leak the water from ther,istead of goig back to the pump
@@Marlonhernandez777 can you post a video?
ruclips.net/video/XJqhL5N5kik/видео.html
@@Brian_the_repair_guy there's the vid
What happens when an unloader fails ? for instance a bypass has a blockage and the pressurised water has no where to go ? does it just burst the pump seals ? or does it try to find its way out of a pressure / valve cap or just fracture the cylinder head ? or find the next weakness a ruptured hose
I look at these pumps and wonder why there is no additional safety release valve .. I assume cost
Does it try and stall the engine ? or as its direct drive does it just tear the shaft / key is that a kill switch on the unloader if it was fitted with an electric motor ?
I wonder how many people just buy a replacement unloader valve and just fit it and not set to correct working pressure
Dangerous
The engines on these machine will only allow the pressure to rise so much before the engine stalls. The pumps are typically rated for 3 times their stated pressure. The engines can't come close to this, so they stall. If a fitting or gasket were to fail, it would be due to a worn or damaged part
@@Brian_the_repair_guy I borrowed a neighbors Westinghouse 3200psi washer today, and immediately, something was wrong with it. Would start right up, but within 2-3 seconds it would load right up and stall the engine. If you held the trigger on the wand, it would run all day, but as soon as you released it, engine would stall right out. It has a different style of unloader, it's held in with a U shaped clip. There's no knob on it, just a nut to adjust how much the spring is compressed. I pulled that out, to visually inspect it, and everything looked clean and practically brand new. I put a dab of grease on the o-rings, and put it back together. Started it up to test, immediately loaded up the engine, only this time, it built enough pressure before it stalled, to completely force the plastic hose connector off the wand, stripping the threads entirely off. The hose smacked me in the leg, and left a very significant bruise. I'm convinced something is wrong with the unloader, but I'm hesitant to try any more troubleshooting. Obviously this thing was capable of building some pretty significant pressure, not sure I want to find out what the next weak point is.
Any thoughts or ideas?
@@ericcheeseman8144 you are definitely getting far too much pressure. When the trigger is pulled, the pump is in effect leaking, so it can't build but just so much pressure.
When the trigger is released, the pressure builds and the unloader dumps off to the low pressure side to prevent excessive pressure. When the unloader fails, or is set too high, the pressure builds until the engine stalls or failure of a part.
At this point, I would not suggest any other work being done except by a certified shop.
The pump has been stressed and should be thoroughly checked.
I don't feel the excessive pressure was do to the user, it just happened to fail at that time.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy Thanks for the reply. They hadn't used it since last year....I'm guessing it got put away wet, and freezing temps in winter affected the unloader. Either way, I'll be calling a local small engine shop in the morning. I'd probably investigate further, but it's not mine, and I'd prefer not to make anything worse lol.
You need to adjust pressure using a gauge, not listening to the engine. It's more important to know the maximum operating pressure of the lowest rated accessory and use a gauge to set the pressure. Otherwise, good info.
I agree, the pressure should be set with a gauge. In a perfect world it would happen. In most situations, guys are not going to purchase a high pressure gauge to set the unloader one or 2 times in the life of the machine.
So, I explain how to set these without a gauge.
You wouldn't want to set the gauge based on the lowest rated accessories. Doing this would prevent the higher rated accessories from working properly.
You want the pressure set as high as the engine and pump will safely operate. Adjust down for the lower pressure accessories
Can I do a bypass to a bolt on unloader
In most setups yes. If you find me in Facebook and send pictures I can tell for sure
When you said "before we get started" I thought the next words out of your mouth would be: "let us pray".
There are times I need prayer before I start on these machines
why is there no water going to my buffer tank
Difficult question to give an answer on without seeing it. I do not know the set up that you have. Do you have a pressure relief for easy start?
Rubber hose acting as radiator? WTF world im livin...
A radiator is defined as "1.a thing that radiates or emits light, heat or sound." Since the rubber allows the transfer of heat into the ambient air, the hose qualifies as a radiator. If you disagree with the technical definition, feel free to elaborate
@@Brian_the_repair_guy This hose will emit 2-3% of heat from pump recirculating water at full speed, you get people wrong saying 1 ft of rubber makes any difference.
@@krzysiek524 do you have supporting evidence or data that shows a 1-2% radiation rate?
@@Brian_the_repair_guy Yes i do, brass is at least 400 times more heat conductive than NBR/EPDM rubber. Typical triplex pump running on 3400 RPM will consume 15-20% of power on pure friction converted to heat. During bypass pressure is lower so are the friction losses, about 10% of power and also all the heat from thermal conductivity of shaft, pump flange, heat radiated from engine and also hot air cooling engine. By adding 1ft of rubber hose you add thermal capcity for few seconds but ZERO thermal conductivity to air. For 10kW pump you would have to dump 1,2 to 1,5kW, in stagnant air heat exchange from copper tube with water is ~250W per square meter with 5*C dT. To fully emit that power u need 5m2 of copper surface, good luck with that. Remember when pump is not at bypass its fully cooled by water, when cooling stops all that heat builds up in oil, crankshafts, plungers up to the head.
@@krzysiek524 I am not arguing that there are better heat conductors. In a standard bolt on, you have less than one inch of low pressure transition before the water is reintroduced to the pump. Very little heat dissipation occurs in that one inch. The 16" of hose from the unloader to the reintroduction into the pump allows more time for the water to cool. As I explain in the video, some reduction is better than none. The hose stills acts as a radiator. Take note to number 2 reason for an external bypass versus a bolt on or banjo style. www.pressurewashersonline.com/pages/why-external-unloader-valve