would the external work if you just bolted the external to the bolt on and set the bolt on to max and set the external to say 200 psi less than the bolt on?
Yes is the short answer. The only way to attach both, would be inline. There would be zero purpose in doing this. This infact opens the door to more possibilities of failure.
I have a Honda powered, belt driven CAT pump with an external unloader. A few times the I had noticed that the unit did not make pressure. The machine has VERY low hours, is very well maintained too. I have determined that the culprit is the unloader an d sometimes gets stuck. I was thinking of replacing the unloader or should I open it up and reseat everything?? This happened only once this year and turning the adjustment handle remedied the situation. I used Stabil "Pump Saver" over winter last winter as opposed to normal RV anti-freeze the previous. Perhaps greater lubrication of the Stabil (plus it foams) helped loosen up the unloader.?? If you have any thoughts of experience I would appreciate it..
It is not uncommon for an unloader to get stuck. It sounds like this is very infrequent. Lack of use can be a culprit. I wouldn't be too concerned based on what you have explained. Not sure I would go the expense of replacing.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy Thanks Brian.. I think it is definitely lack of use. I use it to softwash two homes. With X-jet or down stream. It's a small commercial unit but used residentially. I plan on using it for a boat in the future and picked this because it can run off a tank. It's 4gpm as presently setup but changing sprockets I could get 4.5 or 5gpm states CAT. Would drop pressure from 4000 to 3500. i don't think it would save me much time because i do not do this for a living. in fact the extra pressure might help me for barnacle removal..?
Mr. Brian, I appreciate your videos and how thorough you are. If possible, would you be willing to tell me what the hourly going rate is to work on the paint sprayers and power washers? Thanks G&T
Hi Brian, Thanks for this great video! I have a question: Could I replace the factory unloader on a 4400 PSI 4.0 GPM Dewalt Pressure Washer with a remote unloader like the one you show so I can have the water cycled to a buffer tank? The one it comes with is has a Thermal Release Valve that opens up to release a gush of water in an effort to lower the temperature inside the pump; I wanted to remove it and connect a hose to that fitting and run it to a buffer tank but I was told by Dewalt not to remove it because it could cause damage to the pump. I wanted to see if you had dealt with this type of scenario before and if you knew of an unloader I could buy to replace the one it came with and be able to use a buffer tank with it. Much appreciated.
Quick question, mine came already setup remotely how you did in this video. But I’m going to add a buffer tank. So I’m going to run the bypass to a tank, do I need to run a line back to the lower barb? Or can I just run my garden hose back to the inlet to the pump. If that makes any sense. I was thinking of making a video of the process I’m going thru from my first pressure washer to the whole setup and so on as I upgrade equipment. If I get likes in this comment I just might… lol
I have a water blaster and it has a bolt on banjo style unloader. The unloader has its own brass style short bypass system. I noticed a small Allen head plug at the back of that bypass tube. Im assuming if I pull that plug I can bypass straight to my tank. Bypassing the original brass tubing down and back to the inlet. Or should I just replace the entire unloader with and external? It’s a aaa belt driven pump
To determine if you can use it for a tank, pull the Allen screw out. Once it is out, run the machine. It should run water with the trigger NOT pulled. Whwn you pull the trigger the water coming out should stop. If it does not, turn it off. If it does stop with the trigger pulled you can run it the tank. Now, if you are not pulling FROM the tank, the tank will just fill.
Does this setup stop the pump from overheating? Usually I have seen the bypass water getting dumped on the ground or back to a buffer tank so it's always fresh water going through the pump...
The external or remote style unloader does help reduce heating. If it is dumped on the ground or in a buffer tank, it is greatly reduced. Recycling the water in a short hose does reduce heat, but not as well as the other two options with this style unloader
Hello Brian. Enjoy the way you share your experience and knowledge. I have an old Farm Hand Pressure Washer that uses a Giant GX2525 pump. It stopped working so I ordered a rebuild kit. The old problem is solved, but this Giant pump has a built in unloader and I must have something wrong with my assembly of new parts. To start the engine I have to squeeze the wand trigger and if I release the trigger the engine stalls from the pressure. I have a series of pictures I would like to share, but don't know how to send these without an email address and you might not want to share that. Any other way? Thanks
Brian great video, I had a question - would it not be better to prime the 16mm rubber hose with water before fixing at unloader side. my worry is about the air pocket in the hose, so when the internal water pressure matches the selected unloader pressure the bypass will activate and then the air pocket will enter into the pump will this not cause damage? are there any best practice advice to prime this type of triplex plunger pump with external unloader before use 1st time?
To prime the pump, attach your water source at connection. Turn water on and allow to flow freely for 5 seconds. This is more than enough to ready the pump prior to starting engine. Do this each time the machine is going ro be used prior to initial start
@@Brian_the_repair_guy one of my friends has his pressure washer set up where in one side of the pump is the unloader and the bypass hose and in the other side of the pump has another bypass hose , he bought it like that .
What ID/size is the rubber hose? 3/8"? And can you use the heater core hose that you get from the auto parts shop? If not where can I get the right rubber hose for the bypass?
Question I have STILH RB 800 it came with AR PUMP i want to add return hose how would I do that there is a plug on it I want to say that’s the return but just wanted a pros advice first before I mess with it
With a bolt on unloader, the answer is no. The external unloader can, but the fittings could possibly reduce the flow rate. The interior diameter can not be smaller than the original fittings.
hi mate, if i have a inbuilt unloader in my pump, can i add and external unloader as well, as i want excess pressure when i let go of gun to go onto the ground?, cheers buddy
@@Brian_the_repair_guy yes mate--- i assumed if i had a built in unloader at 3800 psi i could add a external unloader at 3700psi, anyways--- i can always replace the pump later if needs be, cheers mate, take care
i got a cat 4dnx pump 3200 psi with the built in unloader, what do i do with it? do i open it all the way and put the external unloader at 3200 or i just remove it and put a plug on it? thanks buddh awesome videos
@@Brian_the_repair_guy thanks 👍🏼 I’ve got a Clark PLS360, just bought a unloader with return to tank was curious when I seen your video. Keep the videos up enjoy watching 😊
@@805guttercleaning I can see the possibility of cavitation within the pump of the bypass hose it too long. When the machine unloads, it is not a steady full stream. The bypass hose has air pockets, those air pockets can get to the pump and cause cavitation which can damage the pump.
Can this conversion be done on a Karcher G4000 SH. If so where can I find the info to order the conversion kit? I’ve had problems with my unloader sticking for years.
Check the oil in the engine. If the oilnis good, check the pressure the pump is running. If your pressure is too high, it will stall the engine. Turn your unloader down three turns and try it, if you have no gauge
@@Brian_the_repair_guy I did this today, it has good pressure and does good until I let off the gun. As soon as I do it builds to much pressure and the motor dies. As long as I’m holding the trigger in it does good. Hopefully I can figure this out, Thank you for your help
@@johnfitch7976 not sure you caught my comment. You may have TOO MUCH pressure. Turn the unloader down three turns to reduce your pressure and try it. If it continues to run with no issue, then reset the pressure. Check the engine oil also
good evening My brother, my pressure washer had a low pressure then i realized the 8 bolt s from the pump near unloader , all head of the are broken and water is liking, so the couse please help me
there’s 2 inlet 1/2 and 2 outlet 3/8 when/how to use!! u used inlet/outlet pump the left side ports lets say, now is it a must to use in/out (left side ports or right side) of the pump at the same time? Q1 can i change and use inlet right outlet left??and that makes 2 ports used out of 4! about the unloader water some returns it to a tank or like what u did and thats 2 ports used out of 4 again in my vision.. Q2 can i use the other side the right inlet to return unloader hose in?, that’s when i meant dual in ??that makes 3 ports used out of 4!
@@samak2105 you have a right and left side to the pump. The inlet and out let should be on the same side of the pump, I do not like them on opposing sides. You can use either side of the pump for the inlet and outlet, but keep them on the same side. You can only use ONE set at the time or one unloader at the time. Never 2
@@Brian_the_repair_guy i appreciate ur replay now and lastly 4 ur time i connect or used both left side inlet 1/2 (normal barb) and outlet 3/8 vrt3. about the unloader when i let go the gun it release or relief water or pressure u call it, i’m asking what best of the best to do so with it? where to return it? without effect the pressure or causing heat or damage the pump? like u did! i couldn’t find this barb! like i said some return it to tank some return it to the right side inlet and that’s not a long circle will heat the pump .. u said never 2 inlets used together at the same time
@@Brian_the_repair_guy Northern Tool is selling a Cat Pump 2750 PSI with a pre-plumbed bypass but I didn't need a new pump yet. Just wanting to protect my pump as much a possible. My Comet pump is 10 years old now and still going.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy An old Comet GXD 2627 - It's been a good pump with the right maintenance and care. The idea of the external unloader caught my eye for water cooling. I do shut the engine down when I stop spraying to save the pump.
@@edman1015 ok, wanted to verify, that pump can not be retrofitted with an external. A new pump would the way to go if that is what you want. What size engine do you have?
The only small inconvenience I noticed, when you screwed the hose onto the unloader, the screw on the hose clamp ended up facing backwards to where you couldn't get to it later.
@@stevem1081 I will explain why I do it this way. After a few uses, that hose will not come off that barb even if you remove the clamp. The pressures, over time will prevent you from pulling that hose off even without the clamp. So, the process for removal will be to remove the top clamp and split the upper end, then you will unscrew the lower barb with the hose attached (with or without the clamp) and the split the hose from the barb after the barb is removed. Again. Everyone has their preferences. If the job gets done, then your preference worked. That is all that matters. Thanks for the views and adding to the numbers. You have a good day.
I do this all the time. The only problem I come across is the fitting threads. There seems to be either bsp or npt threads. What a load of crap. It should all be metric.
@@mlhm5 why would that be? 100f does not register on the thermal dump. A washer with a banjo unloader, based on your thoughts, would never be used during the summer in the south. There is no way to divert from recycling through the pump
I agree, an adjustable wrench is kind of a hacks tool. Just use the right tool for the particular job. Most decent knowledge. repair people have the right tools. Most knowledge repair people have both standard and metric wrench sets. If not you probably shouldn't even be repairing anything. And who in the hell let's their equipment get that disgusting dirty come people.
Everyone has their opinion. The adjustable works just as well. Never had an issue. Not sure why the adjustable is not " the right tool". But hey, I know how to use it and it works well. I do have a complete set of wrenches in metric an standard up to 37mm and 2 1/8". Knowledge is not based on the possession of tools. Knowledge is knowing how to use a tool correctly in a variety of situations. I think I will continue the way I have for 32 years. It has worked well. Thanks for contributing to my page views
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you very much! You explained very well. The humor is appreciated in addition!
@@facereader99 I hope it helps you out
Thank you for this video.
This is what i was looking for.
I should have found this months ago. .this whole channel for that matter
Well, I am glad you found it now. If you have any suggestions for videos, let me know
Brian, will this type unloader work with a cat pump 66dx40. It appears to have the same bolt pattern. Thanks for another informative video.
If you have an unloader that is bolt on, you can convert it to the external style
would the external work if you just bolted the external to the bolt on and set the bolt on to max and set the external to say 200 psi less than the bolt on?
Yes is the short answer. The only way to attach both, would be inline.
There would be zero purpose in doing this. This infact opens the door to more possibilities of failure.
Would this work on a predator pressure washer? 4400 psi 4.2 gpm
Brian at 5:48 timeline you are showing inlet port with screen. what is that called to buy it ?.
Inlet hose filter. You can buy these at any box store. They will be sold by the garden hoses or by the washing machine hoses
I have a Honda powered, belt driven CAT pump with an external unloader. A few times the I had noticed that the unit did not make pressure. The machine has VERY low hours, is very well maintained too. I have determined that the culprit is the unloader an d sometimes gets stuck. I was thinking of replacing the unloader or should I open it up and reseat everything?? This happened only once this year and turning the adjustment handle remedied the situation. I used Stabil "Pump Saver" over winter last winter as opposed to normal RV anti-freeze the previous. Perhaps greater lubrication of the Stabil (plus it foams) helped loosen up the unloader.?? If you have any thoughts of experience I would appreciate it..
It is not uncommon for an unloader to get stuck. It sounds like this is very infrequent. Lack of use can be a culprit. I wouldn't be too concerned based on what you have explained. Not sure I would go the expense of replacing.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy Thanks Brian.. I think it is definitely lack of use. I use it to softwash two homes. With X-jet or down stream. It's a small commercial unit but used residentially. I plan on using it for a boat in the future and picked this because it can run off a tank. It's 4gpm as presently setup but changing sprockets I could get 4.5 or 5gpm states CAT. Would drop pressure from 4000 to 3500. i don't think it would save me much time because i do not do this for a living. in fact the extra pressure might help me for barnacle removal..?
@@OdinsCloud possible. I am not up on my barnacle removal?
Mr. Brian, I appreciate your videos and how thorough you are. If possible, would you be willing to tell me what the hourly going rate is to work on the paint sprayers and power washers? Thanks G&T
I see rates between $70 and $85. Really depends on area you live in
Hi Brian, Thanks for this great video! I have a question: Could I replace the factory unloader on a 4400 PSI 4.0 GPM Dewalt Pressure Washer with a remote unloader like the one you show so I can have the water cycled to a buffer tank? The one it comes with is has a Thermal Release Valve that opens up to release a gush of water in an effort to lower the temperature inside the pump; I wanted to remove it and connect a hose to that fitting and run it to a buffer tank but I was told by Dewalt not to remove it because it could cause damage to the pump. I wanted to see if you had dealt with this type of scenario before and if you knew of an unloader I could buy to replace the one it came with and be able to use a buffer tank with it. Much appreciated.
Is the unloader on the machine you have bolt on?
it is not Brian, it's all one piece, I guess I am stuck with it right? is there a kit that could replace it by chance@@Brian_the_repair_guy
@@rucosantana if it cannot be fully removed, then you are stuck with it
I appreciate ya! @@Brian_the_repair_guy
@@rucosantana no problem
Quick question, mine came already setup remotely how you did in this video. But I’m going to add a buffer tank. So I’m going to run the bypass to a tank, do I need to run a line back to the lower barb? Or can I just run my garden hose back to the inlet to the pump. If that makes any sense.
I was thinking of making a video of the process I’m going thru from my first pressure washer to the whole setup and so on as I upgrade equipment. If I get likes in this comment I just might… lol
@@D-boi93 when you remove the return hose from the inlet, plug that port and just have the water hose attached to the inlet
@@Brian_the_repair_guy got you! Thanks brutha!
Can you put a link to where to buy the external unloader you are using here?
Sherwin William's and watercannon.com both have these
I have a water blaster and it has a bolt on banjo style unloader. The unloader has its own brass style short bypass system. I noticed a small Allen head plug at the back of that bypass tube. Im assuming if I pull that plug I can bypass straight to my tank. Bypassing the original brass tubing down and back to the inlet. Or should I just replace the entire unloader with and external? It’s a aaa belt driven pump
To determine if you can use it for a tank, pull the Allen screw out. Once it is out, run the machine. It should run water with the trigger NOT pulled. Whwn you pull the trigger the water coming out should stop. If it does not, turn it off.
If it does stop with the trigger pulled you can run it the tank.
Now, if you are not pulling FROM the tank, the tank will just fill.
Does this setup stop the pump from overheating? Usually I have seen the bypass water getting dumped on the ground or back to a buffer tank so it's always fresh water going through the pump...
The external or remote style unloader does help reduce heating. If it is dumped on the ground or in a buffer tank, it is greatly reduced. Recycling the water in a short hose does reduce heat, but not as well as the other two options with this style unloader
@@Brian_the_repair_guy can the hose be as long as you want within reason to give a bit of extra water volume?
@@tomwebb986 yes it can
Hello Brian. Enjoy the way you share your experience and knowledge. I have an old Farm Hand Pressure Washer that uses a Giant GX2525 pump. It stopped working so I ordered a rebuild kit. The old problem is solved, but this Giant pump has a built in unloader and I must have something wrong with my assembly of new parts. To start the engine I have to squeeze the wand trigger and if I release the trigger the engine stalls from the pressure. I have a series of pictures I would like to share, but don't know how to send these without an email address and you might not want to share that. Any other way? Thanks
Your pressure is most likely set too high for the engine. Give it about 3 turns counter clockwise wise and try again
Brian great video, I had a question - would it not be better to prime the 16mm rubber hose with water before fixing at unloader side. my worry is about the air pocket in the hose, so when the internal water pressure matches the selected unloader pressure the bypass will activate and then the air pocket will enter into the pump will this not cause damage? are there any best practice advice to prime this type of triplex plunger pump with external unloader before use 1st time?
To prime the pump, attach your water source at connection. Turn water on and allow to flow freely for 5 seconds. This is more than enough to ready the pump prior to starting engine. Do this each time the machine is going ro be used prior to initial start
what about the unloader valve air in rubber hose pipe@@Brian_the_repair_guy
@@kashi2843 if you utilize the steps above, then the system is primed completely
Can you add another by pass hose to the back of the pump ?
I am not sure what you are asking. Can you explain it better?
@@Brian_the_repair_guy one of my friends has his pressure washer set up where in one side of the pump is the unloader and the bypass hose and in the other side of the pump has another bypass hose , he bought it like that .
@@paulocenteno7391 I can't say I have ever seen that. Can you get a picture for me. You can find me on Facebook. It will be easier to see
What ID/size is the rubber hose? 3/8"? And can you use the heater core hose that you get from the auto parts shop? If not where can I get the right rubber hose for the bypass?
You can use most any reinforce rubber hose. Heater hoses are reinforced. The ID on this hose is 3/8" but may vary based on the unloader you purchase
Question I have STILH RB 800 it came with AR PUMP i want to add return hose how would I do that there is a plug on it I want to say that’s the return but just wanted a pros advice first before I mess with it
Find me on Facebook. It will be easier to help
Could you please send a link where you get the external unloader from Amazon?
The unloader will vary depending on the pump you have.
I just installed mine, but it’s acting very funny. The black adjustable part keeps popping up? Any help?
@@BradDDog are you referring to the adjustment knob for the unloader?
That will pop up and drop as it is used
What tool do you use to adjust bottom plug? I bought one but its not tight and i cant figure out what it is
I am not sure what part you are talking about
@Brian_the_repair_guy if valve was pointing up, it would be pointing down, it's like a screw you can tighten at the bottom
@@sofaism find my Facebook page and send a picture of the part
@@Brian_the_repair_guy figured it out, was a very big Allen wrench! Thanks though
@@sofaism I am glad you got it
Can you put qc fittings between machine and unloader
With a bolt on unloader, the answer is no.
The external unloader can, but the fittings could possibly reduce the flow rate. The interior diameter can not be smaller than the original fittings.
Can you actually help me? I’m trying to do this on a Ryobi, but I can’t find the fittings.
Is your unloader a banjo style? Can it be removed with the 2 bolts like in this video?
hi mate, if i have a inbuilt unloader in my pump, can i add and external unloader as well, as i want excess pressure when i let go of gun to go onto the ground?, cheers buddy
I am sorry, but you can not add another unloader to the system
@@Brian_the_repair_guy thats a bugger--- cheers mate--- ill make sure i dont put the gun down for more than 30 seconds, cheers for your reply
@@666dualsport better safe than sorry, good idea
@@Brian_the_repair_guy yes mate--- i assumed if i had a built in unloader at 3800 psi i could add a external unloader at 3700psi, anyways--- i can always replace the pump later if needs be, cheers mate, take care
@@666dualsport thanks for the question
i got a cat 4dnx pump 3200 psi with the built in unloader, what do i do with it? do i open it all the way and put the external unloader at 3200 or i just remove it and put a plug on it? thanks buddh awesome videos
If you have a built-in unloader, then I do not think it is possible to change it.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy shoot, I appreciate your quick response bud!
@@enrirod89 I am sorry I could not give you any help
@@Brian_the_repair_guy it's all good !
Just out of curiosity, why not return to water tank?
You can, but not everyone has that option. The unit is no longer considered portable.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy thanks 👍🏼
I’ve got a Clark PLS360, just bought a unloader with return to tank was curious when I seen your video. Keep the videos up enjoy watching 😊
@@r.gexternalcleaning7281 good question. I like questions, even when I don't know the answer.
Hey Brain hope u doing good? my pump lost pressure how can u be a help
@@VenusTukpah find me on Facebook.
Can I make the dump hose longer in a coyle for cooling the water
Yes you can. I have seen them several feet long. I have hooked them to water tanks when the set up is trailered
That's the way it's done here (irl)it's a return to the tank.
I have my bypass hose run on the ground , however I was told that's not a good idea thought it could cause some air suction to the pump
@@805guttercleaning I can see the possibility of cavitation within the pump of the bypass hose it too long.
When the machine unloads, it is not a steady full stream. The bypass hose has air pockets, those air pockets can get to the pump and cause cavitation which can damage the pump.
Can this conversion be done on a Karcher G4000 SH. If so where can I find the info to order the conversion kit? I’ve had problems with my unloader sticking for years.
Thus pump appears to have a built on unloader. There is no way to convert this
@@Brian_the_repair_guy okay thank you. I’ve had this thing for years and it’s given me fits since a couple years after I bought it.
@@Brian_the_repair_guyhow to can you tell the difference from the built-on unloader?
Hi.
Any chance i could bypass an unloader that is part of the brass head ?
No.
My SIMPSON PS4033 - 4000 PSI 3.3 GPM dies when I let off the gun. Would this help it
Check the oil in the engine. If the oilnis good, check the pressure the pump is running. If your pressure is too high, it will stall the engine. Turn your unloader down three turns and try it, if you have no gauge
@@Brian_the_repair_guy I did this today, it has good pressure and does good until I let off the gun. As soon as I do it builds to much pressure and the motor dies. As long as I’m holding the trigger in it does good. Hopefully I can figure this out, Thank you for your help
I did turn the pressure down and still does it, it don’t go into bypass mode it just dies
@@johnfitch7976 not sure you caught my comment. You may have TOO MUCH pressure. Turn the unloader down three turns to reduce your pressure and try it. If it continues to run with no issue, then reset the pressure. Check the engine oil also
@@johnfitch7976 you really need a pressure gauge. Check the engine oil level
Ian, waters comin Ian
Is there a link to get that Unloader..??
Watercannon.com has a selection of unloaders. Call them and give them the information they need and they will locate the inloader you want
good evening My brother, my pressure washer had a low pressure then i realized the 8 bolt s from the pump near unloader , all head of the are broken and water is liking, so the couse please help me
The bolts will wear and rust over time. They can fail when the head pressure is applied over time
Q pls what happened if u connect it in the other side inlet in the pump? or when can use? or can used dual?
I am not sure what you are asking
there’s 2 inlet 1/2 and 2 outlet 3/8 when/how to use!! u used inlet/outlet pump the left side ports lets say, now is it a must to use in/out (left side ports or right side) of the pump at the same time?
Q1 can i change and use inlet right outlet left??and that makes 2 ports used out of 4!
about the unloader water some returns it to a tank or like what u did and thats 2 ports used out of 4 again in my vision..
Q2 can i use the other side the right inlet to return unloader hose in?, that’s when i meant dual in ??that makes 3 ports used out of 4!
@@samak2105 you have a right and left side to the pump. The inlet and out let should be on the same side of the pump, I do not like them on opposing sides.
You can use either side of the pump for the inlet and outlet, but keep them on the same side.
You can only use ONE set at the time or one unloader at the time. Never 2
@@Brian_the_repair_guy i appreciate ur replay now and lastly 4 ur time i connect or used both left side inlet 1/2 (normal barb) and outlet 3/8 vrt3.
about the unloader when i let go the gun it release or relief water or pressure u call it, i’m asking what best of the best to do so with it? where to return it?
without effect the pressure or causing heat or damage the pump? like u did! i couldn’t find this barb! like i said some return it to tank some return it to the right side inlet and that’s not a long circle will heat the pump .. u said never 2 inlets used together at the same time
@@samak2105 to reduce heat, return to a tank.
Is there a bypass unloader for a 2700 PSI pump?
I can honestly say I have never seen an external bypass for a pump that is 2700 psi. Not to say it does not exist, I have never seen one
@@Brian_the_repair_guy Northern Tool is selling a Cat Pump 2750 PSI with a pre-plumbed bypass but I didn't need a new pump yet. Just wanting to protect my pump as much a possible. My Comet pump is 10 years old now and still going.
@@edman1015 which pump model do you have?
@@Brian_the_repair_guy An old Comet GXD 2627 - It's been a good pump with the right maintenance and care. The idea of the external unloader caught my eye for water cooling. I do shut the engine down when I stop spraying to save the pump.
@@edman1015 ok, wanted to verify, that pump can not be retrofitted with an external. A new pump would the way to go if that is what you want.
What size engine do you have?
thank you
Do you ever your 1/2 unloaders
Not sure what you mean by 1/2 unloaders
The only small inconvenience I noticed, when you screwed the hose onto the unloader, the screw on the hose clamp ended up facing backwards to where you couldn't get to it later.
Each has their own preferences
@@Brian_the_repair_guy true, and I always pick the correct/better way.
@@stevem1081 I will explain why I do it this way.
After a few uses, that hose will not come off that barb even if you remove the clamp. The pressures, over time will prevent you from pulling that hose off even without the clamp.
So, the process for removal will be to remove the top clamp and split the upper end, then you will unscrew the lower barb with the hose attached (with or without the clamp) and the split the hose from the barb after the barb is removed.
Again. Everyone has their preferences. If the job gets done, then your preference worked. That is all that matters.
Thanks for the views and adding to the numbers. You have a good day.
Plug the bottom and let the top flow to the ground, never will get hot.
I do this all the time. The only problem I come across is the fitting threads. There seems to be either bsp or npt threads. What a load of crap. It should all be metric.
If it is 100F outside the bypass should just go to ground or back in the holding tank not back into the pump. That is just silly.
@@mlhm5 why would that be? 100f does not register on the thermal dump. A washer with a banjo unloader, based on your thoughts, would never be used during the summer in the south. There is no way to divert from recycling through the pump
I agree, an adjustable wrench is kind of a hacks tool. Just use the right tool for the particular job. Most decent knowledge. repair people have the right tools. Most knowledge repair people have both standard and metric wrench sets. If not you probably shouldn't even be repairing anything. And who in the hell let's their equipment get that disgusting dirty come people.
Everyone has their opinion. The adjustable works just as well. Never had an issue. Not sure why the adjustable is not " the right tool". But hey, I know how to use it and it works well. I do have a complete set of wrenches in metric an standard up to 37mm and 2 1/8". Knowledge is not based on the possession of tools. Knowledge is knowing how to use a tool correctly in a variety of situations.
I think I will continue the way I have for 32 years. It has worked well.
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