UPDATE:1 year and still cranks within the first 2-3 pulls. Probably will buy another when this one finally does bite the dust ruclips.net/user/postUgkx43QMbQqu67IZadu9ou8Sg1BdrunMRNqX . No issues at all. Very happy with it.UPDATE: After 6 months of use and over 70 uses I would still highly recommend this pressure washer. It does vibrate a decent amount but never had it “walk” like others have mentioned. No oil leaks, still seems to run like the day I bought it. Still cranks within 2-3 pulls every time. Very happy with my purchase!Have used it about a dozen times now. Plenty of power, cranks up on 1-2 pulls every time. My only complaint would be I wish it was a little taller to make it easier to walk with it (hits my ankles a lot) and that the two hose connections were a little further apart but it hasn’t caused me any issues. Seems to run a good 1-1/2-2 hrs on a full tank, overall a well built machine and definitely worth the money in my opinion.
It's nice to listen to a guy who really understands how these machines work. I've replaced a few pumps, and carburetors in my 34 years as a painter. Thanks for the detailed explanation, great job!!
Thanks for the great video. I volunteer at the St John's tool Library in St John's Newfoundland. Your videos help us repair good but non-working donated equipment. We are non-profit organization operated entirely by volunteers. We can't afford to buy new equipment but we love to recycle. Thank you so much for your help.
You are most welcome. If you have a problem that any of the videos do not address a problem on a machine let me know. I work on many types of machines besides paint sprayers.
Best video ever, precise and clear explanations along the video. Easy to keep track of procedures, and process all the way through. Can’t wait for next one.
Found the prob - 3 of those valves were messed from little plastic fragments. I kept it in a storage place that freezes in the winter. Ordering a new set of valves. Thank you!
The most informative video I've watched to date on small engine related product , clear , concise and no nonsense, here in Southern Africa we battle to get quality service and repair and top notch knowledge, Very much appreciated.
Thank you Very much 'Brian'' You have a way to 'capture our attention' in the way you explain everything so clearly and is understandable for most anybody who as interest in learning the (abc) of 'pressure washing' machinery... (Like some other 'commentator said' !! YOU (Should/Could) have been a VERY GOOD TEACHER !!! Thanks again, The common 'RUclips' followers are very lucky to have someone like you to show and teach us 'Your knowledge'...👌👍👏
Just about to remove the pump, but it wouldn't come off. Then I watched the last part, and saw the part about the set screw! But B4 that, I saw how easy it was to remove the valves, I thought that would be a can of worms, but not so! Found tons or rust in the valve seats, rinsed everything out, and viola, it works! Thanks a bunch, Brian - Where would we be without RUclips.
I've worked on a lot of things Brian but had no experience at all with pressure washers. So thank you for the very informative video. Excellent camera work and audio quality along with the great explanation. A tough combination to find on RUclips videos! Attaboy!
Great video! Very well explained! I am a DIY guy but new to pressure washers. This video makes me feel comfortable diagnosing and trying to fix a used unit I picked up. Thank you!
I viewed this video because I am considering purchasing a used pressure washer. Your in depth analysis gives me an idea of what to look for like milky oil and lower outgoing water pressure than what machine is designed. Thank you for your easy to understand explanations.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy what website can i buy new valves ? Mine loses pressure when my water gets hot . I have a detailing company want when the water is hot from the sun it will lose pressure also once’s the tank is half way full . I don’t have a issue if it’s full water tank .
Nice job on this video! I was always curious how my PW pump worked, now I know. This all started trying to figure out why my pump wasn't drawing soap/chemical solution. Thank you very much.
Thanks for the video.I have two old pressure washers in the pole barn.Never new exactly what the problem was with them.Probably won't fix them but I am going to tear them apart to just see what the problem is.Thanks.
Thank you, thank you thank you. This was very well explained and broken down so anyone can understand it. I appreciate what you did. Thank you very much.
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Thank you, I try to make all my videos to the point. I personally hate watching a video with 10 mins of "why" a video is being made and what spirits guided you on your path.
he makes a lot of good points here but in any case of something not working the way it should, always think simple before you get into complicated repairs. I have the exact same Honda motor and pump (Comet Pump). Suddenly no water was making it to the wand where it quick connects to the pump..so , I undid the quick connect from the pump body and low and behold, a piece of rubber had broken away from one of the seals and was completely blocking the exit hole to the hose coupling . Once I cleared the obstructing, good as new
You mentioned that the pressure washers that are sold at Home Depot or Loews it doesn’t pay to repair,but the thing is it’s actually the unloader valve itself that’s an easy fix.Many people are being sold an entire pump assembly when they only needed to clean and oil the unloader valve.This is when you pull the trigger and kicks off after just 3 seconds.This is a common issue many are having.Thank you for sharing your tips and advice.
This depends entirely on the type of pump. Many of the pumps used on the mass produced pumps used on the Lowes and Home Depot machines are not repairable. Access to certain parts are not available. There is no need to oil the unloader. In fact they are not oiled from the factory. The only lube is on the spring and that is a very light coating of grease. It never needs to be greased again. If by chance the grease is flushed away, you need a new unloader. Many of the unloader are built on to the pumps used on the machines from box stores, which means you buy a new pump.
Thanks for the very prompt and informative video. Just sent my commercial unit in to our shop because of no pressure. Now I know what to look for and diagnose the situation. 👍
Excellent explanation of how the pump works, Now I m sure I know my problem of water in my pump oil. Thanks for a great tutorial and the breakdown to show the insides of the pump and how they work. Big Thumbs up. Any links to pump kits would be great.
Great video and very informative. I cannibalized parts from different units. I added a pump from a unit where the motor went bad and added the pump to a Honda motor from another unit where the pump went bad. Now when I let go of the trigger, the unit cuts off immediately. I took the unloader valve out and the piston moves freely. The set nut was spinning freely and not depressed against the larger nut that holds the spring in place. The unit hops and skips more than I recall also. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks in advance for this instructional video.
THANK YOU SIR!!! This has to be the BEST video I've found so far!!! You gave me a better understanding of what each part's function is along w/ what causes different failures! I've got a General Pump T1011 that lost pressure shortly after I effed up. Shut off motor & water to move washer, then fired it up & idled for a few minutes while I did a few things then wound it up to start washing. Gun was probably 50 ft away & when I pulled trigger got nothing...my dumb ass never turned water valve back on! Anywhooters, got it back on ASAP & it worked fine for a bit but after idling again to move a vehicle it decided it wasn't feeling it any more & said "EFF U DUDE I QUIT"! 😁 I'm not afraid to tear into it but been struggling to find accurate teardowns that match mine exactly...pump & unloader (K5) & until now I hadn't even gotten a thorough video explanation so I could diag it & fix it myself w/ minimal cost. I inherited it from my 90 yr old G'pa last year cuz he decided he was gettin tired & it's a good money maker as long as I'm not starting the season going too far in debt!!! So thanks again for sharing knowledge & explaining HOW components works & not just acting like I know everything you do. If I did I wouldn't be here! Thanks again! YOU TAUGHT ME TO FISH & DIDN'T JUST FEED ME FISH FOR SUPPER! 👍 And YES, I'm bored & can BS forever. Hope you enjoyed my novel...✌ P.S. Subbed & checked you're info & found something cool. You joined March 26th 2010 & that was a BIG day for me...because at 6:15 & 6:16 PM My twin 👶boys👶 joined the world!!! I'll take that as the vibe that led me your way & why I was moved enough to write a novel in response to your video! Leland & Landon by the way...and they're pricy cuz, TWO TIMES TWO TIMES, so fix washer-make the doughnuts-blow money on boys!!!
I am very glad you found this helpful. That is why I do these videos, to help. The General pump is top of the line. Congratulations on the twins, although late. Have a good one and good luck
I just opened a small business with pressure washing. I watch a lot of videos every day in the evening about different things. Most videos are basically all the same. You broke that unloaded valve down to a science. Thanks for your help. I’ve been wondering if I should turn it to get -/+ pressure. But now I no. I also just ordered a pressure gauge, hose swivel , oil cut off & kill switch spark plugs and air filters. I’m gonna order a new pump cause I’ve had the same pump for 8 years. So was wondering if you will do a video on pump replacement. Thanks for taking time out to help people like me.
Hey Brian excellent video, 22:12 , I am really interested to understand and learn - The best combination of Pressure v/s Volume and related nozzle/orifice sizes. kindly help out, let me know if you already have any detailed video on this . Thanks....
@@Brian_the_repair_guy sorry, my question to you was not correct because it is not leaking in that spot. Without motor running and water hose on, it leaks at bottom between the black pump and brass pump that the unloader is attached to. I did take the unloader off as you suggested and the o rings were bad so I replaced them. Your advice was worth while if I can get the leak stopped. I'm assuming I will have to replace the seals as you show in the video to stop the leak. It sprays fine when using. Problem with using it, it might mess up the motor. I took it replacing the seals in the video was to correct a pressure problem. Thanks for your reply and help.
Nice video, good technical info, and not overly explained! I have a (discontinued) karcher g4000rh (4000psi 3.4gpm) itʻs leaking oil. what would you recommend as a good replacement pump for it?
Hi Brian, I really appreciate the precision in your video. I recently bought my first used pressure washer with a 4200PSI capacity. However, it is leaking from behind the head of the pump. I suspect it might be the O-rings, but I'm not entirely sure. Can you please guide me on how to fix it? Your assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you."
Pretty much gave up after hearing your opinion about pressure washers from Lowes…anyway, at my age I’m just going to rent one each time I need it. Thank you Sir!!
Fantastic video. You translated giberish to basic English. By far the best video on a pump breakdown. I have a question... Honda gx390 with a CAT 66DX40G1. One of my techs called me and said the engine blew a rod or something because there's a hold in the engine and chunks of the engine flew out. No injuries thankfully. I know that low or no oil can usually cause this so I just purchased another gx390 and am currently swapping it out with the blown engine. I decided to clean the shaft, key, and after coming across your video decided to clean a little more. Something I noticed when cleaning the shaft and key slot....pieces of greasy grass were lodged in there so I was able to clear out what I could see. A couple months ago, this pwasher tipped over while a tech was washing a long walkway. He turned it back up right, white smoke everywhere, small grass fire extinguished. Engine would not restart. Took it to the warehouse, changed all the fluids and spark plug and got it up running again. Then the blown engine incident happened. Is it possible that grass got logged into the pump during the tip over? Is this possibly what blew the engine because the dip stick showed some oil on it when I checked it. I can't see well enough inside the hole that got blown open to see if any oil was in there. This is an older model CAT pump and I'm having trouble removing a few of the tork bolts that hold the head in place, they keep stripping so I found it best to Stop. I'm eager to go ahead and install the pump to the new engine BUT am hesitant to do so in case I didn't get all of the grass out. I've used an air compressor to blow air through all openings (water supply, shaft,unloader, etc. Your thoughts about me moving forward without certainty that all of the grass has been removed (assuming that may have lead to the blown engine). Thank you in advance. We have a 9 - 4 story condo project to start in 6 hours (7:30am CST) and believe it or not the 4gpm wheeled units work better than our 10gpm trailer and flatbed units since we are able to just load the 4000/4 into the 60' man lift basket. This is Phase 2 of the project so we've already been through all the "do it this way" methods. Lol. KtPowerWashing.com
I am having a hard ti.e trying to come up with a scenerio that would cause the engine to "blow" based on the pump that is working as it should. Nothing you have pointed out about the pump leads me in that direction. Tipping the machine over while running could definitely lead to this. Depending on length of time on its side, how much oil dumped in the cylinder while it was running and a couple other factors. When you remove the pump, you should be able to spin the shaft on the pump by hand with a bit of force. Do this a few times to see if you can get a fee full rotations with no restrictions. If you can, the pump is most likely not an issue. I feel the tip over is the culprit. As for the grass, if the grass is IN the pump, use a water filter at the inlet. If the grass is on the shaft, no real concerns.
What a great video, you sure do have a way of explaining how pressure washers work, what kind of pump would you be replacing it with ? Maybe you can do a video installing the new pump and setting up the unloader, again thank you
Great video! Two questions. 1. I'm shopping for a 4 GPM 4000 PSI washer. Pump options are AR, Cat, GP, and HP. Which to you recommend for long life and rebuildability? 2. I've read that using pump saver after every use extends the life of the unit. What's your opinion on using light machine oil or something to that effect instead of the product in a can?
I prefer the General pump. Overall I see the longest life, less problems with General pumps. The parts and pump cost a bit more, but I feel it is far better. Long life will come with service, do not allow the pump to freeze, and do not allow the pump to run for more than a couple minutes without water flowing from the gun. When you let the machine run with out pulling the trigger for more than 2 minutes will allow the water to over heat. You do not want that. As far as the oils, use the manufacturers recommended oils.
Thanks Brain, it's nice to listen to English & a guy that knows what he's doing & explains all as he goes, damn good job buddy, Bet you're a$$ I'll be following you & probably asking u a few things, can I send you pictures of a pump I'm working on now?
Old video, looks like a canpump, same one I have. My oil does look milky Lol, about to invest in a good brand pump soon but so far it's still putting in work for me
Very good video thanks! I purchase a power washer on an aution and has milky oil in the pump. The machine is 6hrs old I replaced the oil once used for an hour then the oil was milky gain. I think k need to rebuild the pump. 😐
I have a 4 gpm with a general pump ez4040g pump. The other day I lost pressure. I took the unloader off and it seemed to be sticking. I cleaned it up and oiled it and it seems fine now. Do you think I should order a new unloader or is this a common problem? Thanks
Sudden loss of pressure typically occurs when a piece of small trash get is the system. The Valves and the unloader will both be affected by the smallest foriegn object. Usually the piece will pass. If you have a thermal valve, keep an eye on it. If you begin to see water leaking from the thermal valve, then prepare to replace the unloader.
Great video , i have the same pump but the video didn't solve my problem, my pump is spraying water out of the channel under the centre piston does this sound like a blown seal?
If there is water leaking between the head and the crank, you need new packings and seals. Check the plungers to ensure no damage before getting your parts
You are a godsend! Looking at replacing my pump and was intimidated, because I didn't have this info. Now I'm raring to go. One question...I hear generac has something like a bypass water dump when you don't hit the trigger for a while, that keeps the pump cool enough to survive....can you discuss that, and is it a good idea, and how do I put one on? A million thanks!
Generac does not make a pressure washer pump. They use pumps from a variety of manufacturers on their pressure washers. All washer pumps have a bypass. This is what prevents over pressurization. I think you are reffering to an external bypass. These are identified by the unloader having an 18" or so hose that comes out of the unloader and back down to the inlet side of the pump. You can find these on a variety of pumps and machines. I reccomend them. Although they are NOT a 100% protection from overheating from recirculation, they help a lot.
Hey Brian, thank you for the video. I have an older BE Power washer with a 2200psi Honda. I have a significant leak in the pump, before watching the video I took the housing apart and looks like one of the ceramic pistons is damaged. Would that be the source of the leak?
Thank you for breaking this down. I have a BRAND NEW Sun Joe SPX9008-PRO 2.41 Hp 1800 Max Psi 1.6 Gpm Commercial Electric Pressure Washer with Roll Cage. It is not under warranty. I hooked up the hose to it and turned the water on, plugged it in, held the trigger in so that water starting to trickle out. I kept the trigger in and turned on the pressure washer. It just hums and does not build any pressure. After 15 seconds, I shut the unit off. I tried a different outlet and repeated the above with no change in results. By watching this video, it could be 3 things: unloader, packings, or valves. Is there a way to test the unloader? I do have an air compressor but unsure what tools I need to test it and I fear testing it for more than 1 minute might damage the unit beyond repair. (I'm not looking to change the psi rating). I tried turning it all the way clockwise, then all the way counter-clockwise, and it did not make a difference since there was still no pressure, the motor just hummed. I figured I'd wait to get a response from you regarding the unloader question so that if there is no way to test it, I'll then try to dismantle the unit to check the packings and valves. The oil in the unit is clear and at the proper level. What do you think the issue might be with my unit? Any advice would be greatly appreciated :) Also, what happens is there is too much oil in the unit? Manual says to maintain proper oil levels but I'm just curious what happens where there is too much oil - lol
If you have no pressure when you pull the trigger, then you could have a valve or packing issue. I would check the valves first. If you have a burst or pressure when the trigger is pulled then it drops, you have an unloader problem.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy Thank you for such a speedy reply! I will check the valves, and then the packing if need be, this coming weekend when I have some time to take it apart. Thanks so much again for your video and input :)
@@mikea3552 no problem glad to help. If your valve has the slightest piece of sand or debris between the plate and the seat under the spring, it needs to be cleaned. That will cause a pressure loss.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy Just wanted to give you a follow-up since I had time this weekend to take the pump apart. I inspected each valve and all was clean and able to be depressed using my pic, with the spring acting as resistance from the backside. I made sure all 3 valves were properly re-seated. As shown in your video at 16:56, the lower half shows 3 pistons. I have 3 pistons as well, made of metal instead of ceramic. However, yours pistons appear solid! Mine are hollow, and inside my pistons is a white, plastic sleeve, with a silver spring inside that. The far left piston white sleeve had this sticky residue all over it, so I cleaned it back to smooth plastic. I cleaned the rust from the far right piston white sleeve that had a rusty crust stuck to it. After putting it all back together, the pressure washer WORKS! Thanks to your video, it gave me the confidence I needed to take it apart, what to look for, and do something about it. So, thanks again :)
Just ran into your channel, thanks for the video, I bought new 4gpm 4400 psi pressure washer that has a built in unloader valve, I just realize that I should get one that I could run a hose to my buffer tank to avoid damaging it when I’m not squeezing the trigger on the gun. What is my best option other than getting different pw to achieve that. Thanks again.
If your unloader is not a bolt on style, then I am not sure how to go about setting it up for the water to flow back to your tank from the unloader as it dumps. You could replace just the pump to the proper pump.
Awesome video, very informative,....how can I diagnose an unloaded, so hopefully I have an easy quick least expensive fix to my no pressure situation?....same pump as your video, ive taken unloader apart to the point of removing adjustment knob and pulled stiff spring.....seems intact except for filthy rusty water, but no scale or rust on spring.....was going to just replace entire pump....should I?
Best explanation video ever. I have a similar chinese pump that has no make or model identifiers. Any thoughts on oil for these types of units. Is a decent brand 15-40w ok to use?
Great presentation, thank you. I bought a Chinese washer, three cylinder like this one here. It started surging in the pump, not the engine, so I undid the valve caps as you did and number three had brass filings in it. Silly me I didn’t take any pics but instead cleaned it out and restarted it.....no difference obviously. So as it was virtually new I contacted the supplier who told me to remove the pump and return it to be checked by a technician, which I did. He returned it saying the technician checked it and found no fault, so I reinstalled it and started it up again. The surging was still evident, and contacted the supplier again, who declined to help any further. So.....what happened to it, and can it be repaired or should I buy a new pump as you have recommended in this video. If I buy a knew pump are they interchangeable or will I need an adapter plate ? Looking forward to your advise, cheers Steve
Typically, the less expensive pumps are not worth rebuilding. I can't tell you what is wrong yours, since I can't put my hands on it. But, with brass filings in the pump, I would say replace the pump. AR would be a good choice. If your pumps bolts direct to the engine, then there is typically no adapter plate needed. You just need to know the motor shaft size. Got to watercannon.com for a possible pump
Hi Brian, I have a pressure washer with a Honda GX160 engine and CAT Pump (model 2SFX30GS). The engine usually starts in 1 pull and it seems to run fine. I get good pressure from the gun, but the engine only runs for around 30 seconds, then sputters and dies. After starting, I can operate the gun for less than 1 minute before the engine stalls. If I release the trigger before the 30 seconds, sometimes the engine would sputter and dies. Basically, the engine dies randomly when the pressure washer is operating, and also sometimes dies when the gun trigger is either pressed down or released. At first, I thought it was the engine. I disassembled the carburetor and cleaned the jets. I didn't see any worn parts inside. I also changed the gas tank fuel filter, swapped the gas tank cap with a known good one to rule out venting issues, and unplugged the engine-oil sensor to test. The problem persisted. I then swapped the entire carburetor with a working one from another GX160 engine, and still have the problem. At this point, I speculated it was unlikely the engine. I disassembled the unloader valve and didn't see much wear, and the plunger moved freely without problems. I lubed the seals on the unloader valve with a tiny bit of silicone paste, and the plunger with a small bit of light oil and reassembled, and experienced the same problem afterward. The times the engine didn't die when I release the gun trigger, I see the unloader-valve spring being compressed. At this point, I'm completely stumped. The pressure washer was working fine last year before I winterized it. What do you think is causing this problem? Is there some malfunction in the CAT pump that can cause the engine to stall when the trigger is down and the gun spraying (i.e., no water bypass)?
The engine will stall for typically 3 reasons. 1, Lack of fuel. You stated you did carb work and replaced the gas cap. Probably not the issue. 2, Low oil. You bypassed the sensor. Probably not the issue. The third reason can be too much pressure. Adjust the unloader down for less pressure and give that a try.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy I turned the unloader adjuster all the way counter-clockwise until there's almost no spring tension and almost no pressure, and it still dies. The one thing that really confuses me is why the engine stalls when the gun is spraying. Seems like there should be minimal load on the engine when the gun is spraying, which would point to an engine problem. I don't know too much about pressure washer pumps, but do have quite a bit of experience with Honda GX engines. But I just can't think of anything I missed on the engine side. I know it's not a low-engine-oil, or fuel-cap-venting problem. I put in a new fuel filter and swapped in a know-working carb from another engine. Also, the carb I cleaned works perfectly on the other engine (on a leaf blower). The engine sounds smooth when the gun is spraying until it suddenly dies, like running out of gas. Do you think this is an engine problem or a pump problem? Thanks for your help with this.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy I removed the pump. The engine started and ran smoothly. I let it run for around 3 minutes before shutting it down manually. I did notice one issue during the test: I can put the engine on idle from full throttle without problems. However, if I put the engine on idle, then back to full throttle right away, once in a while, the engine would stall. I thought maybe I have a clogged exhaust. But I got the same problem when running the engine with the exhaust removed. I speculate this isn't the cause of the engine shutting down when the pressure washer is spraying, but it may be. So I want to take care of this before going back to the pump, and also while the pump is off the engine. Any idea what's causing this? The governor is not sticking and seems to be operating as it should. I was going to check valve adjustment, but I'm really grasping at straws here. Regarding the pressure washer issue: do you think it's the unloader valve that's causing the engine to shut down while the pump's spraying? Is there a bypass passage inside the unloader body that could potentially be clogged?
@@ptmoy1 I am leaning towards the engine being the source of the problem. You were able to recreate the shutdown by idling up quickly. This can simulate increase fuel usage when spraying with the pump on. The only reason the pump should affect the engine is if the pump requires more than the engine can give. You stated the engine shutdown even on low pressure. So this eliminates the pump. There is an engine issue in my opinion.
Great video, I appreciate your time and knowledge. I have a karcher 3000pro with a 9 hp Honda gx270 engine. For the life of me there is no numbers on the pump. The pump leaks water and oil. The oil is not milky. When I press the wand trigger, It takes a few seconds for the pressure washer to activate. Please advice.
If you have a leak of water and oil both, I would consider replacing the pump itself. The cost of parts would be close to the cost of a pump. Just make sure you check the shaft size on your motor to get the correct pump. An AR pump would be a good choice.
Great! presentation great presentation liked the information i have a 1700 psi Ex cell pressure washer model number WGV1721 found the pressure washer in the trash brought it home and it worked fine but had a leaking spray gun, i tighten the spray gun halves and loss total pressure. I adjusted the uploader valve and still the pressure washer did not get built any pressure if you have any advise or any help, i would appreciate it.
Beautiful job on that PW 101 video. I got to learn a lot. My Husky PW did not build enough pressure anymore so changed the entire pump and the entire spraying wand (gun). Unfortunately this didn't make any difference and pressure is still not building at all (Honda engine is working fine). Any idea what the problem may be? Could it be the quick connect fittings that are leaking air or something?
Good afternoon Brain. I have a Dewalt 3600 pressure washer that won’t start. I removed the spark plug and when I crank the engine without the plug, it shoot out like have a cup of gas and oil as well. The air filter I feel has lots of oil. Can you please tell me what’s wrong and what should I do. Thank you Sir. From the beautiful tropical Island of Guam.🇬🇺🇺🇸
*I just bought a Mi-T-M 3000 psi 3 gpm pump for my honda gc190 and I was told by someone to add a bypass hose on unloader to help with off trigger over heating. Would you say this is critical for me to do to make the pump last longer? The pump has 2 plugs where the hose would go so looks pretty simple to do, remove the 2 plugs and replace them with two 3/8 barbs and a foot or so of 3/8 hose. Thanks in advance.*
The bypass hose would attach to the unloader of the machine. The 2 plugs you mention are more likely to allow the unloader to be installed on either side of the pump, depending on the design of the machine. If you were to install a hose there, it must be high pressure, but I do not recommend this at all. There would be no added benefit. Due to the function of the unloader, an external hose on the unloader does aid in cooling. Cooling is only a concern when the machine is left to run without pulling the trigger for more than a minute or two. Simple solution to this, if you are going to put the gun down, turn off the machine. If you are not going to pull the trigger in the next 2 minutes, turn off the machine. If you are waiting on the chemicals to work, just pull the trigger momentarily.
I have a Mi-t-m 3500. I want to pull the pump off the motor. Keep it indoors this winter. Motor needs tuned up. It doesn't start, not seized up. I will clean carb, and get non ox fuel. Any tricks I need to be aware of removing the pump?
Pull the 4 bolts that hold it to the engine. There may be a set screw through the shaft that locks the keyway. Locate the set screw through the side port on the pump and loosen it. Jiggle wiggle and pry a little to slide the pump off the shaft.
I’ve got one of those Chinese pumps and although I can see the pushrods working, one of the cylinders doesn’t seem to be pumping and pressure and flow is not what it should be and the lance vibrates in my hand. It is out of warranty but has not done more than five hours work in its life and apparently only very briefly worked as it should, at the very beginning. It doesn’t overheat because it has an electric motor drive with a pressure cut-out that stops the motor as soon as the lance trigger is released. Could one of the valves be the issue?
Typically, vibration at the gun with trigger pull is one or more valves have trash stuck in it. Find my video on the valves and hiw to clean. That should take care of it.
Brian: Thank you for a great video. My pressure washer has the pressure gauge on the top of the head above the thermal valve (engine side). Do you think this is a poor place or should it be in line before hose? My pressure washer went from (Had unloader turned down to 2000#) turned it off to fix inlet water leak, started back up and only 150# of pressure. I tore it down to investigate and believe or not the ceramic pistons did show wear in about the same place on all three (AR pump). You are right it gets expensive quick beyond the seals, (Got milky oil) so I am going to buy a new pump and recycle the old one. It will have ceramic pistons for sure (Mine lasted 20+ years).
Hey Brian. Nice video. If you are still following, I have a leak on a unit I just bought used at the top bolt of the unloader. Bottom bolt looks good. Do I just back both bolts out to detach from the head? Is there a O-ring in there to replace or something?
Yes, there is an O ring in there. Before you loosen the bolt, try to snug the bolt. Not too hard, just a bit to see of that helps. If not remove it and replace O ring
@@Brian_the_repair_guy I have the bolt removed and bought a variety set of orings. None fit. I called Simpson and they say they don’t sell orings for that part and suggested I buy a $200+ takedown Assembly from them. Any idea where to look for a replacement?
Hi Brian great video I have 3000psi w/ 8GPM Honda Gx690 pressure washer. I need to replace the unloader valve the unloader that's on the pump is a VRT3 however I can't fine one with 3000psi only 4500psi can I use the 4500psi unloader
Washer working then pressure quit, have Annovi REVERBERI rsv3g30 PUMP, no pressure. Took apart to clean /look for debris, flushed with water. Valves very hard to move or remove. (did not take out -options?). Put together still no pressure. Would replace unloader and valves be next step? Removed pump and checked pistons (good). Thanks
You need a pressure gauge on the pump. If you have high pressure without pulling the trigger, but lose pressure on trigger pull, then the unloader could be the issue. If the pressure shows no high pressure then check valves and packings. You need to pull the valves out. If they are hard to pull out, it could be they are damaged.
I just reasently got a pressure washer from my neighbor who had it apart already and told me a breif story of a maybe how and a maybe why he tells me the whole story starts with the pump now why i am glad i found your vidio its a honda motor its made by homelite and of coures theres no such thing as a honda pump so I hear hahaha 🤣 So now a learned a major thing through you that I am so sure nobody else will have told me about all this Lots of great stuff in a small package so this washer has a good motor the pump easier to get a new one after all it's in peaces and I think upon his story it was run dry of oil in the pump because he said a bolt that holds the pump in place blew out It I never heard a thing like that now from what I heard from you about the numbers on the pump as being very important and nothing to do with the whole of a motor for parts it is a good thing in the chase for information So this story ends for me looking in to a new pump and figuring were all that stuff he handed me goes back asides from the pump I will need a service manual do you know were were I can get it ??? Nice video lots of good stuff and things I did not know Thank you for sharing and thank you again in advance
Typically an owners manual can be found through an internet search under owners manual (insert brand and model) As for a pump replacement I would suggest contacting watercannon.com with the engine and shaft size. They will be able to supply you with a reasonably price replacement pump that will be fully plumbed or unplumbed
UPDATE:1 year and still cranks within the first 2-3 pulls. Probably will buy another when this one finally does bite the dust ruclips.net/user/postUgkx43QMbQqu67IZadu9ou8Sg1BdrunMRNqX . No issues at all. Very happy with it.UPDATE: After 6 months of use and over 70 uses I would still highly recommend this pressure washer. It does vibrate a decent amount but never had it “walk” like others have mentioned. No oil leaks, still seems to run like the day I bought it. Still cranks within 2-3 pulls every time. Very happy with my purchase!Have used it about a dozen times now. Plenty of power, cranks up on 1-2 pulls every time. My only complaint would be I wish it was a little taller to make it easier to walk with it (hits my ankles a lot) and that the two hose connections were a little further apart but it hasn’t caused me any issues. Seems to run a good 1-1/2-2 hrs on a full tank, overall a well built machine and definitely worth the money in my opinion.
Glad you like it
Please don't stop making content we all where an apprentice and who is going to teach the apprentice?
It's nice to listen to a guy who really understands how these machines work. I've replaced a few pumps, and carburetors in my 34 years as a painter. Thanks for the detailed explanation, great job!!
I am just a well trained monkey, but thank you
What a great video. Everyone who owns a pressure washer and isn’t rich should be required to watch this. Excellent job. Very good.
The guy recommended to replace the pump!
Thanks for the great video. I volunteer at the St John's tool Library in St John's Newfoundland. Your videos help us repair good but non-working donated equipment. We are non-profit organization operated entirely by volunteers. We can't afford to buy new equipment but we love to recycle. Thank you so much for your help.
You are most welcome. If you have a problem that any of the videos do not address a problem on a machine let me know. I work on many types of machines besides paint sprayers.
Best video ever, precise and clear explanations along the video. Easy to keep track of procedures, and process all the way through. Can’t wait for next one.
There’s no one on the internet like you Bryan, so much knowledge, experience and willingness to share and teach. Thank you!!
I am glad that you are happy.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy
@@Brian_the_repair_guy
You should have been a teacher this is the most informative video on RUclips
Thank you and I hope you find it helpful
Thanks man this is the absolute best video I've seen on pressure washer pumps ,unloader valves, when to repair, what to look for. really appreciate it
Glad it helped
Found the prob - 3 of those valves were messed from little plastic fragments. I kept it in a storage place that freezes in the winter. Ordering a new set of valves. Thank you!
Thanks, you answered several of my questions. This is how videos should be made. Clear & concise.
Glad it was helpful!
The most informative video I've watched to date on small engine related product , clear , concise and no nonsense, here in Southern Africa we battle to get quality service and repair and top notch knowledge, Very much appreciated.
I am glad you liked it
#1 Pressure Washer Repair video on RUclips. Thank you!!!
I am glad you like it. If you have a request for a video, let me know. Be sure to subscribe for new videos.
Thank you Very much 'Brian'' You have a way to 'capture our attention' in the way you explain everything so clearly and is understandable for most anybody who as interest in learning the (abc) of 'pressure washing' machinery...
(Like some other 'commentator said' !! YOU (Should/Could) have been a VERY GOOD TEACHER !!!
Thanks again, The common 'RUclips' followers are very lucky to have someone like you to show and teach us 'Your knowledge'...👌👍👏
I am just trying to help. Thank you
Just about to remove the pump, but it wouldn't come off. Then I watched the last part, and saw the part about the set screw! But B4 that, I saw how easy it was to remove the valves, I thought that would be a can of worms, but not so! Found tons or rust in the valve seats, rinsed everything out, and viola, it works! Thanks a bunch, Brian - Where would we be without RUclips.
@@billcoleman8854 I very glad to help
I've worked on a lot of things Brian but had no experience at all with pressure washers.
So thank you for the very informative video.
Excellent camera work and audio quality along with the great explanation. A tough combination to find on RUclips videos! Attaboy!
Thank you, I am glad it helps
Great video! Very well explained! I am a DIY guy but new to pressure washers. This video makes me feel comfortable diagnosing and trying to fix a used unit I picked up. Thank you!
I am glad you found this helpful
Just wanted to say I appreciate your video. I picked up a used electric unit and used this video to help diagnose it.
I am glad you found it helpful.
I viewed this video because I am considering purchasing a used pressure washer. Your in depth analysis gives me an idea of what to look for like milky oil and lower outgoing water pressure than what machine is designed. Thank you for your easy to understand explanations.
I am glad it helps.
I know im getting old when stuff like this have me entertained.. i feel like a pro now working on my machine thanks
I know the feeling
Thanks so much for the engine piston, crank, intake etc, anology. Great vid!
Hope it was helpful
@@Brian_the_repair_guy what website can i buy new valves ? Mine loses pressure when my water gets hot . I have a detailing company want when the water is hot from the sun it will lose pressure also once’s the tank is half way full . I don’t have a issue if it’s full water tank .
@@josecollazos6 if you know the model of your pump you can go to watercannon.com they have a huge supply of pump parts.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy thank you . From what i told you what do you think can be wrong with mine maybe any idea
@@josecollazos6 Still need help?
Nice job on this video! I was always curious how my PW pump worked, now I know.
This all started trying to figure out why my pump wasn't drawing soap/chemical solution. Thank you very much.
I am glad you liked it.
Thanks for the video.I have two old pressure washers in the pole barn.Never new exactly what the problem was with them.Probably won't fix them but I am going to tear them apart to just see what the problem is.Thanks.
Excellent. You are a born teacher and accomplished technician. Thank you.
Thank you
Thank you, thank you thank you. This was very well explained and broken down so anyone can understand it. I appreciate what you did. Thank you very much.
Very glad to help
Great video! I feel more comfortable tackling a future pump project after seeing your video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
I hope it helps and thank you
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Best information and most useful I have heard after watching 5 other videos before it. THANK YOU!!!!
I am glad to help
Great video. Best explanation of parts and functions for the pump.
What you said, EXACTLY!
@@ThomasBarone p
This is my kind of video.
Straight forward, zero bullshit.
Thank you!
Thank you, I try to make all my videos to the point. I personally hate watching a video with 10 mins of "why" a video is being made and what spirits guided you on your path.
Good night sir your information is gold Lawson in Trindad and Tobago 🇹🇹 thanks brother.
Glad to help
he makes a lot of good points here but in any case of something not working the way it should, always think simple before you get into complicated repairs. I have the exact same Honda motor and pump (Comet Pump). Suddenly no water was making it to the wand where it quick connects to the pump..so , I undid the quick connect from the pump body and low and behold, a piece of rubber had broken away from one of the seals and was completely blocking the exit hole to the hose coupling . Once I cleared the obstructing, good as new
Good as new..... Except for a missing chunk of a seal. Wouldn't it be wise to identify and, if feasible, replace the offending seal?
@@mechantics done and done
Accurate and helpful information.👍
We stock a full line of spare parts for this model pump - model 1506.5A
Great 👍
You mentioned that the pressure washers that are sold at Home Depot or Loews it doesn’t pay to repair,but the thing is it’s actually the unloader valve itself that’s an easy fix.Many people are being sold an entire pump assembly when they only needed to clean and oil the unloader valve.This is when you pull the trigger and kicks off after just 3 seconds.This is a common issue many are having.Thank you for sharing your tips and advice.
This depends entirely on the type of pump. Many of the pumps used on the mass produced pumps used on the Lowes and Home Depot machines are not repairable. Access to certain parts are not available. There is no need to oil the unloader. In fact they are not oiled from the factory. The only lube is on the spring and that is a very light coating of grease. It never needs to be greased again. If by chance the grease is flushed away, you need a new unloader. Many of the unloader are built on to the pumps used on the machines from box stores, which means you buy a new pump.
Thanks for the very prompt and informative video. Just sent my commercial unit in to our shop because of no pressure. Now I know what to look for and diagnose the situation. 👍
Excellent explanation of how the pump works, Now I m sure I know my problem of water in my pump oil. Thanks for a great tutorial and the breakdown to show the insides of the pump and how they work. Big Thumbs up. Any links to pump kits would be great.
Glad to help. Watercannon.com is a good start on parts
Great video and very informative. I cannibalized parts from different units. I added a pump from a unit where the motor went bad and added the pump to a Honda motor from another unit where the pump went bad. Now when I let go of the trigger, the unit cuts off immediately. I took the unloader valve out and the piston moves freely. The set nut was spinning freely and not depressed against the larger nut that holds the spring in place. The unit hops and skips more than I recall also. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks in advance for this instructional video.
If you let go of the trigger and the motor stalls, this means the pressure is too high foe the motor.
Great video, very well explained in details.
Hope it is helpful
THANK YOU SIR!!! This has to be the BEST video I've found so far!!! You gave me a better understanding of what each part's function is along w/ what causes different failures! I've got a General Pump T1011 that lost pressure shortly after I effed up. Shut off motor & water to move washer, then fired it up & idled for a few minutes while I did a few things then wound it up to start washing. Gun was probably 50 ft away & when I pulled trigger got nothing...my dumb ass never turned water valve back on! Anywhooters, got it back on ASAP & it worked fine for a bit but after idling again to move a vehicle it decided it wasn't feeling it any more & said "EFF U DUDE I QUIT"! 😁 I'm not afraid to tear into it but been struggling to find accurate teardowns that match mine exactly...pump & unloader (K5) & until now I hadn't even gotten a thorough video explanation so I could diag it & fix it myself w/ minimal cost.
I inherited it from my 90 yr old G'pa last year cuz he decided he was gettin tired & it's a good money maker as long as I'm not starting the season going too far in debt!!!
So thanks again for sharing knowledge & explaining HOW components works & not just acting like I know everything you do. If I did I wouldn't be here! Thanks again! YOU TAUGHT ME TO FISH & DIDN'T JUST FEED ME FISH FOR SUPPER! 👍
And YES, I'm bored & can BS forever. Hope you enjoyed my novel...✌
P.S. Subbed & checked you're info & found something cool. You joined March 26th 2010 & that was a BIG day for me...because at 6:15 & 6:16 PM My twin 👶boys👶 joined the world!!! I'll take that as the vibe that led me your way & why I was moved enough to write a novel in response to your video! Leland & Landon by the way...and they're pricy cuz, TWO TIMES TWO TIMES, so fix washer-make the doughnuts-blow money on boys!!!
I am very glad you found this helpful. That is why I do these videos, to help. The General pump is top of the line. Congratulations on the twins, although late. Have a good one and good luck
I just opened a small business with pressure washing. I watch a lot of videos every day in the evening about different things. Most videos are basically all the same. You broke that unloaded valve down to a science. Thanks for your help. I’ve been wondering if I should turn it to get -/+ pressure. But now I no. I also just ordered a pressure gauge, hose swivel , oil cut off & kill switch spark plugs and air filters. I’m gonna order a new pump cause I’ve had the same pump for 8 years. So was wondering if you will do a video on pump replacement. Thanks for taking time out to help people like me.
I will definitely do a video on pump replacements. I will try to get to it this week. Be sure to subscribe to get notifications. I am glad it helps.
Thanks I took some of this info and applied it finally got my pressure washer running 15 months after I got it for free lol
I am glad to help.
Hey Brian excellent video, 22:12 , I am really interested to understand and learn - The best combination of Pressure v/s Volume and related nozzle/orifice sizes. kindly help out, let me know if you already have any detailed video on this . Thanks....
What if the water is leaking between the pump and the unloaded? That is what mine is doing. Excellent video one of the best I have seen. Thanks
Between pump and unloader would be a bad Oring. Pull the unloader off. Check the upper and lower Oring for damage
@@Brian_the_repair_guy sorry, my question to you was not correct because it is not leaking in that spot. Without motor running and water hose on, it leaks at bottom between the black pump and brass pump that the unloader is attached to. I did take the unloader off as you suggested and the o rings were bad so I replaced them. Your advice was worth while if I can get the leak stopped. I'm assuming I will have to replace the seals as you show in the video to stop the leak. It sprays fine when using. Problem with using it, it might mess up the motor. I took it replacing the seals in the video was to correct a pressure problem. Thanks for your reply and help.
@@MrAffolder the watervseal 8n the pump head are bad. Locate a rebuild kit for your pump and replace all the seals.
Nice video, good technical info, and not overly explained! I have a (discontinued) karcher g4000rh (4000psi 3.4gpm) itʻs leaking oil. what would you recommend as a good replacement pump for it?
I prefer General pumps. They are a bit pricey, but worth it if you use it to make a living with. AR is a good cost effective pump.
Hi Brian, I really appreciate the precision in your video. I recently bought my first used pressure washer with a 4200PSI capacity. However, it is leaking from behind the head of the pump. I suspect it might be the O-rings, but I'm not entirely sure. Can you please guide me on how to fix it? Your assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you."
I have a video about that exact problem on my page. If you can't find it let me know. You can find me on Facebook also
Pretty much gave up after hearing your opinion about pressure washers from Lowes…anyway, at my age I’m just going to rent one each time I need it. Thank you Sir!!
Rentals can be great if you need them occasionally. No maintenance or repairs and don't have to store it.
Brother you made my day with this video my 4200 is working at 2800 but of course at standstill goes to 4k
Were you able to fix the problem?
@@Brian_the_repair_guy yeah a low pressure check valve and the spring on the the part where thre water goes out
Fantastic video. You translated giberish to basic English. By far the best video on a pump breakdown. I have a question... Honda gx390 with a CAT 66DX40G1. One of my techs called me and said the engine blew a rod or something because there's a hold in the engine and chunks of the engine flew out. No injuries thankfully. I know that low or no oil can usually cause this so I just purchased another gx390 and am currently swapping it out with the blown engine. I decided to clean the shaft, key, and after coming across your video decided to clean a little more. Something I noticed when cleaning the shaft and key slot....pieces of greasy grass were lodged in there so I was able to clear out what I could see. A couple months ago, this pwasher tipped over while a tech was washing a long walkway. He turned it back up right, white smoke everywhere, small grass fire extinguished. Engine would not restart. Took it to the warehouse, changed all the fluids and spark plug and got it up running again. Then the blown engine incident happened. Is it possible that grass got logged into the pump during the tip over? Is this possibly what blew the engine because the dip stick showed some oil on it when I checked it. I can't see well enough inside the hole that got blown open to see if any oil was in there. This is an older model CAT pump and I'm having trouble removing a few of the tork bolts that hold the head in place, they keep stripping so I found it best to Stop. I'm eager to go ahead and install the pump to the new engine BUT am hesitant to do so in case I didn't get all of the grass out. I've used an air compressor to blow air through all openings (water supply, shaft,unloader, etc. Your thoughts about me moving forward without certainty that all of the grass has been removed (assuming that may have lead to the blown engine). Thank you in advance. We have a 9 - 4 story condo project to start in 6 hours (7:30am CST) and believe it or not the 4gpm wheeled units work better than our 10gpm trailer and flatbed units since we are able to just load the 4000/4 into the 60' man lift basket. This is Phase 2 of the project so we've already been through all the "do it this way" methods. Lol. KtPowerWashing.com
I am having a hard ti.e trying to come up with a scenerio that would cause the engine to "blow" based on the pump that is working as it should. Nothing you have pointed out about the pump leads me in that direction.
Tipping the machine over while running could definitely lead to this. Depending on length of time on its side, how much oil dumped in the cylinder while it was running and a couple other factors.
When you remove the pump, you should be able to spin the shaft on the pump by hand with a bit of force. Do this a few times to see if you can get a fee full rotations with no restrictions. If you can, the pump is most likely not an issue. I feel the tip over is the culprit.
As for the grass, if the grass is IN the pump, use a water filter at the inlet. If the grass is on the shaft, no real concerns.
What a great video, you sure do have a way of explaining how pressure washers work, what kind of pump would you be replacing it with ? Maybe you can do a video installing the new pump and setting up the unloader, again thank you
Thank you very much for your prompt response and guidance.
Good video!
Didn’t exactly answer what I was hoping to see but it was so informative I finished the video anyway. 😂
What are you looking to have answered?
Great video! Two questions. 1. I'm shopping for a 4 GPM 4000 PSI washer. Pump options are AR, Cat, GP, and HP. Which to you recommend for long life and rebuildability? 2. I've read that using pump saver after every use extends the life of the unit. What's your opinion on using light machine oil or something to that effect instead of the product in a can?
I prefer the General pump. Overall I see the longest life, less problems with General pumps. The parts and pump cost a bit more, but I feel it is far better. Long life will come with service, do not allow the pump to freeze, and do not allow the pump to run for more than a couple minutes without water flowing from the gun. When you let the machine run with out pulling the trigger for more than 2 minutes will allow the water to over heat. You do not want that.
As far as the oils, use the manufacturers recommended oils.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy Thank you Brian
Thank you for a no nonsense video. Subscribed.
Ditto
I just dumped my pumps oil..... it was like spoiled clumpy milk 😂.... thank you for your service to the DIY community 😆
Good description. I am glad to help.
Thanks Brain, it's nice to listen to English & a guy that knows what he's doing & explains all as he goes, damn good job buddy, Bet you're a$$ I'll be following you & probably asking u a few things, can I send you pictures of a pump I'm working on now?
Use Facebook to send questions and such
Old video, looks like a canpump, same one I have. My oil does look milky Lol, about to invest in a good brand pump soon but so far it's still putting in work for me
Wow , really great instrucktions . You should be a teacher.
I hope.it was helpful
The inlet/outlet valves come out super easy with a pair of pliers
Need to be careful with pliers, they can damage the plastic cage but yes pliers work also
Very good video thanks!
I purchase a power washer on an aution and has milky oil in the pump. The machine is 6hrs old
I replaced the oil once used for an hour then the oil was milky gain.
I think k need to rebuild the pump. 😐
Rebuild the pump and flush the crank 3 times. I prefer replacing pump. The cost of parts can be close to the cost of the pump
Thank you man! great video! So helpful and gonna save me a bunch of money!
Glad it was helpful
I have a 4 gpm with a general pump ez4040g pump. The other day I lost pressure. I took the unloader off and it seemed to be sticking. I cleaned it up and oiled it and it seems fine now. Do you think I should order a new unloader or is this a common problem? Thanks
Sudden loss of pressure typically occurs when a piece of small trash get is the system. The Valves and the unloader will both be affected by the smallest foriegn object. Usually the piece will pass. If you have a thermal valve, keep an eye on it. If you begin to see water leaking from the thermal valve, then prepare to replace the unloader.
Great video.. very clear and concise. Can you post some of the parts sources you mentioned? Thanks!
Sherwin Williams Carey's MiTM parts which can be used on most pumps. Watercannon.com is a good online source.
Thanks for the video. That was really well explained.
I hope it helped
Great video , i have the same pump but the video didn't solve my problem, my pump is spraying water out of the channel under the centre piston does this sound like a blown seal?
If there is water leaking between the head and the crank, you need new packings and seals. Check the plungers to ensure no damage before getting your parts
Great video, great explanations, overall amazing video!
Thank you. I hope you find it helpful.
You are a godsend! Looking at replacing my pump and was intimidated, because I didn't have this info. Now I'm raring to go.
One question...I hear generac has something like a bypass water dump when you don't hit the trigger for a while, that keeps the pump cool enough to survive....can you discuss that, and is it a good idea, and how do I put one on?
A million thanks!
Generac does not make a pressure washer pump. They use pumps from a variety of manufacturers on their pressure washers.
All washer pumps have a bypass. This is what prevents over pressurization.
I think you are reffering to an external bypass. These are identified by the unloader having an 18" or so hose that comes out of the unloader and back down to the inlet side of the pump.
You can find these on a variety of pumps and machines.
I reccomend them. Although they are NOT a 100% protection from overheating from recirculation, they help a lot.
Hey Brian, thank you for the video. I have an older BE Power washer with a 2200psi Honda.
I have a significant leak in the pump, before watching the video I took the housing apart and looks like one of the ceramic pistons is damaged. Would that be the source of the leak?
Very Good Video Brian!!!
Thank you for breaking this down. I have a BRAND NEW Sun Joe SPX9008-PRO 2.41 Hp 1800 Max Psi 1.6 Gpm Commercial Electric Pressure Washer with Roll Cage. It is not under warranty. I hooked up the hose to it and turned the water on, plugged it in, held the trigger in so that water starting to trickle out. I kept the trigger in and turned on the pressure washer. It just hums and does not build any pressure. After 15 seconds, I shut the unit off. I tried a different outlet and repeated the above with no change in results. By watching this video, it could be 3 things: unloader, packings, or valves. Is there a way to test the unloader? I do have an air compressor but unsure what tools I need to test it and I fear testing it for more than 1 minute might damage the unit beyond repair. (I'm not looking to change the psi rating). I tried turning it all the way clockwise, then all the way counter-clockwise, and it did not make a difference since there was still no pressure, the motor just hummed. I figured I'd wait to get a response from you regarding the unloader question so that if there is no way to test it, I'll then try to dismantle the unit to check the packings and valves. The oil in the unit is clear and at the proper level. What do you think the issue might be with my unit? Any advice would be greatly appreciated :) Also, what happens is there is too much oil in the unit? Manual says to maintain proper oil levels but I'm just curious what happens where there is too much oil - lol
If you have no pressure when you pull the trigger, then you could have a valve or packing issue. I would check the valves first.
If you have a burst or pressure when the trigger is pulled then it drops, you have an unloader problem.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy Thank you for such a speedy reply! I will check the valves, and then the packing if need be, this coming weekend when I have some time to take it apart. Thanks so much again for your video and input :)
@@mikea3552 no problem glad to help.
If your valve has the slightest piece of sand or debris between the plate and the seat under the spring, it needs to be cleaned. That will cause a pressure loss.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy Just wanted to give you a follow-up since I had time this weekend to take the pump apart. I inspected each valve and all was clean and able to be depressed using my pic, with the spring acting as resistance from the backside. I made sure all 3 valves were properly re-seated. As shown in your video at 16:56, the lower half shows 3 pistons. I have 3 pistons as well, made of metal instead of ceramic. However, yours pistons appear solid! Mine are hollow, and inside my pistons is a white, plastic sleeve, with a silver spring inside that. The far left piston white sleeve had this sticky residue all over it, so I cleaned it back to smooth plastic. I cleaned the rust from the far right piston white sleeve that had a rusty crust stuck to it. After putting it all back together, the pressure washer WORKS! Thanks to your video, it gave me the confidence I needed to take it apart, what to look for, and do something about it. So, thanks again :)
@@mikea3552 I am glad you were able to fix it. I played a very small part, it was all you.
Just ran into your channel, thanks for the video, I bought new 4gpm 4400 psi pressure washer that has a built in unloader valve, I just realize that I should get one that I could run a hose to my buffer tank to avoid damaging it when I’m not squeezing the trigger on the gun. What is my best option other than getting different pw to achieve that. Thanks again.
If your unloader is not a bolt on style, then I am not sure how to go about setting it up for the water to flow back to your tank from the unloader as it dumps. You could replace just the pump to the proper pump.
Nice thorough explanation
@@mrtrump-pf1nx I hope it helps you
Awesome video, very informative,....how can I diagnose an unloaded, so hopefully I have an easy quick least expensive fix to my no pressure situation?....same pump as your video, ive taken unloader apart to the point of removing adjustment knob and pulled stiff spring.....seems intact except for filthy rusty water, but no scale or rust on spring.....was going to just replace entire pump....should I?
What problem are you having exactly?
I appreciate your video. Thank you.
I hope you found it helpful
Best explanation video ever. I have a similar chinese pump that has no make or model identifiers. Any thoughts on oil for these types of units. Is a decent brand 15-40w ok to use?
Generally SAE30 nondetergent is reccomended
Very nice explaination Brian. Thank you.
Thank you, hope it was helpful
Great presentation, thank you.
I bought a Chinese washer, three cylinder like this one here.
It started surging in the pump, not the engine, so I undid the valve caps as you did and number three had brass filings in it.
Silly me I didn’t take any pics but instead cleaned it out and restarted it.....no difference obviously.
So as it was virtually new I contacted the supplier who told me to remove the pump and return it to be checked by a technician, which I did.
He returned it saying the technician checked it and found no fault, so I reinstalled it and started it up again.
The surging was still evident, and contacted the supplier again, who declined to help any further.
So.....what happened to it, and can it be repaired or should I buy a new pump as you have recommended in this video.
If I buy a knew pump are they interchangeable or will I need an adapter plate ?
Looking forward to your advise, cheers
Steve
Typically, the less expensive pumps are not worth rebuilding. I can't tell you what is wrong yours, since I can't put my hands on it. But, with brass filings in the pump, I would say replace the pump. AR would be a good choice. If your pumps bolts direct to the engine, then there is typically no adapter plate needed. You just need to know the motor shaft size. Got to watercannon.com for a possible pump
Thanks. Good info, very helpful.
Hey great video, can you demonstrate how you’d measure the pressure and the flow rate on a unit ?
Hi Brian, I have a pressure washer with a Honda GX160 engine and CAT Pump (model 2SFX30GS). The engine usually starts in 1 pull and it seems to run fine. I get good pressure from the gun, but the engine only runs for around 30 seconds, then sputters and dies. After starting, I can operate the gun for less than 1 minute before the engine stalls. If I release the trigger before the 30 seconds, sometimes the engine would sputter and dies. Basically, the engine dies randomly when the pressure washer is operating, and also sometimes dies when the gun trigger is either pressed down or released.
At first, I thought it was the engine. I disassembled the carburetor and cleaned the jets. I didn't see any worn parts inside. I also changed the gas tank fuel filter, swapped the gas tank cap with a known good one to rule out venting issues, and unplugged the engine-oil sensor to test. The problem persisted. I then swapped the entire carburetor with a working one from another GX160 engine, and still have the problem. At this point, I speculated it was unlikely the engine. I disassembled the unloader valve and didn't see much wear, and the plunger moved freely without problems. I lubed the seals on the unloader valve with a tiny bit of silicone paste, and the plunger with a small bit of light oil and reassembled, and experienced the same problem afterward. The times the engine didn't die when I release the gun trigger, I see the unloader-valve spring being compressed.
At this point, I'm completely stumped. The pressure washer was working fine last year before I winterized it. What do you think is causing this problem? Is there some malfunction in the CAT pump that can cause the engine to stall when the trigger is down and the gun spraying (i.e., no water bypass)?
The engine will stall for typically 3 reasons. 1, Lack of fuel. You stated you did carb work and replaced the gas cap. Probably not the issue. 2, Low oil. You bypassed the sensor. Probably not the issue. The third reason can be too much pressure. Adjust the unloader down for less pressure and give that a try.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy I turned the unloader adjuster all the way counter-clockwise until there's almost no spring tension and almost no pressure, and it still dies. The one thing that really confuses me is why the engine stalls when the gun is spraying. Seems like there should be minimal load on the engine when the gun is spraying, which would point to an engine problem. I don't know too much about pressure washer pumps, but do have quite a bit of experience with Honda GX engines. But I just can't think of anything I missed on the engine side. I know it's not a low-engine-oil, or fuel-cap-venting problem. I put in a new fuel filter and swapped in a know-working carb from another engine. Also, the carb I cleaned works perfectly on the other engine (on a leaf blower). The engine sounds smooth when the gun is spraying until it suddenly dies, like running out of gas.
Do you think this is an engine problem or a pump problem? Thanks for your help with this.
@@ptmoy1 remove the pump from the motor and let it run.
@@Brian_the_repair_guy I removed the pump. The engine started and ran smoothly. I let it run for around 3 minutes before shutting it down manually. I did notice one issue during the test: I can put the engine on idle from full throttle without problems. However, if I put the engine on idle, then back to full throttle right away, once in a while, the engine would stall. I thought maybe I have a clogged exhaust. But I got the same problem when running the engine with the exhaust removed. I speculate this isn't the cause of the engine shutting down when the pressure washer is spraying, but it may be. So I want to take care of this before going back to the pump, and also while the pump is off the engine. Any idea what's causing this? The governor is not sticking and seems to be operating as it should. I was going to check valve adjustment, but I'm really grasping at straws here.
Regarding the pressure washer issue: do you think it's the unloader valve that's causing the engine to shut down while the pump's spraying? Is there a bypass passage inside the unloader body that could potentially be clogged?
@@ptmoy1 I am leaning towards the engine being the source of the problem. You were able to recreate the shutdown by idling up quickly. This can simulate increase fuel usage when spraying with the pump on. The only reason the pump should affect the engine is if the pump requires more than the engine can give. You stated the engine shutdown even on low pressure. So this eliminates the pump. There is an engine issue in my opinion.
Great video, I appreciate your time and knowledge. I have a karcher 3000pro with a 9 hp Honda gx270 engine. For the life of me there is no numbers on the pump. The pump leaks water and oil. The oil is not milky. When I press the wand trigger, It takes a few seconds for the pressure washer to activate. Please advice.
If you have a leak of water and oil both, I would consider replacing the pump itself. The cost of parts would be close to the cost of a pump. Just make sure you check the shaft size on your motor to get the correct pump. An AR pump would be a good choice.
Great! presentation great presentation liked the information i have a 1700 psi Ex cell pressure washer model number WGV1721 found the pressure washer in the trash brought it home and it worked fine but had a leaking spray gun, i tighten the spray gun halves and loss total pressure. I adjusted the uploader valve and still the pressure washer did not get built any pressure if you have any advise or any help, i would appreciate it.
brian, thanks for the class.
I hope it was helpful
Awesome video man, so helpful. Would you show a video of what oil side of the pump looks like?
I will see what I can do.
Beautiful job on that PW 101 video. I got to learn a lot. My Husky PW did not build enough pressure anymore so changed the entire pump and the entire spraying wand (gun). Unfortunately this didn't make any difference and pressure is still not building at all (Honda engine is working fine). Any idea what the problem may be? Could it be the quick connect fittings that are leaking air or something?
Good afternoon Brain. I have a Dewalt 3600 pressure washer that won’t start. I removed the spark plug and when I crank the engine without the plug, it shoot out like have a cup of gas and oil as well. The air filter I feel has lots of oil. Can you please tell me what’s wrong and what should I do.
Thank you Sir. From the beautiful tropical Island of Guam.🇬🇺🇺🇸
Watch this video. This is the fix for your problem. ruclips.net/video/V29xVXl10O4/видео.html
I have a water leak in between the pistons and the pump. What is the solution?
Very helpul. Thanks Brian
Be sure to subscribe and makes requests for repair videos
*I just bought a Mi-T-M 3000 psi 3 gpm pump for my honda gc190 and I was told by someone to add a bypass hose on unloader to help with off trigger over heating. Would you say this is critical for me to do to make the pump last longer? The pump has 2 plugs where the hose would go so looks pretty simple to do, remove the 2 plugs and replace them with two 3/8 barbs and a foot or so of 3/8 hose. Thanks in advance.*
The bypass hose would attach to the unloader of the machine. The 2 plugs you mention are more likely to allow the unloader to be installed on either side of the pump, depending on the design of the machine.
If you were to install a hose there, it must be high pressure, but I do not recommend this at all. There would be no added benefit.
Due to the function of the unloader, an external hose on the unloader does aid in cooling.
Cooling is only a concern when the machine is left to run without pulling the trigger for more than a minute or two.
Simple solution to this, if you are going to put the gun down, turn off the machine.
If you are not going to pull the trigger in the next 2 minutes, turn off the machine.
If you are waiting on the chemicals to work, just pull the trigger momentarily.
I have a Mi-t-m 3500. I want to pull the pump off the motor. Keep it indoors this winter. Motor needs tuned up. It doesn't start, not seized up.
I will clean carb, and get non ox fuel. Any tricks I need to be aware of removing the pump?
Pull the 4 bolts that hold it to the engine. There may be a set screw through the shaft that locks the keyway. Locate the set screw through the side port on the pump and loosen it. Jiggle wiggle and pry a little to slide the pump off the shaft.
I’ve got one of those Chinese pumps and although I can see the pushrods working, one of the cylinders doesn’t seem to be pumping and pressure and flow is not what it should be and the lance vibrates in my hand. It is out of warranty but has not done more than five hours work in its life and apparently only very briefly worked as it should, at the very beginning. It doesn’t overheat because it has an electric motor drive with a pressure cut-out that stops the motor as soon as the lance trigger is released. Could one of the valves be the issue?
Typically, vibration at the gun with trigger pull is one or more valves have trash stuck in it. Find my video on the valves and hiw to clean. That should take care of it.
WOW GOOD VIDEO Thx Ed Loretto Ontario Canada
Hope it is helpful
Brian: Thank you for a great video. My pressure washer has the pressure gauge on the top of the head above the thermal valve (engine side). Do you think this is a poor place or should it be in line before hose? My pressure washer went from (Had unloader turned down to 2000#) turned it off to fix inlet water leak, started back up and only 150# of pressure. I tore it down to investigate and believe or not the ceramic pistons did show wear in about the same place on all three (AR pump). You are right it gets expensive quick beyond the seals, (Got milky oil) so I am going to buy a new pump and recycle the old one. It will have ceramic pistons for sure (Mine lasted 20+ years).
I prefer the gauge to be located between the unloader and the pressure hose.
i have milky oil too can u recommend a pump cheapish the one in it is comet fw2 4030 thanks
Hey Brian. Nice video. If you are still following, I have a leak on a unit I just bought used at the top bolt of the unloader. Bottom bolt looks good. Do I just back both bolts out to detach from the head? Is there a O-ring in there to replace or something?
Yes, there is an O ring in there. Before you loosen the bolt, try to snug the bolt. Not too hard, just a bit to see of that helps. If not remove it and replace O ring
@@Brian_the_repair_guy thanks!
@@Brian_the_repair_guy I have the bolt removed and bought a variety set of orings. None fit. I called Simpson and they say they don’t sell orings for that part and suggested I buy a $200+ takedown Assembly from them. Any idea where to look for a replacement?
@@strattonjames4066 contact watercannon.com they have a phone number to call a tech, they should have them to sell
Thank you. I learned a lot. But mainly to just buy a new one :)
Some times that can be the best and most cost effective solution
Very informative. No bs. Good job.
Thanks. I figure people are here for the topic of the video. Not for a history lesson
Hi Brian great video I have 3000psi w/ 8GPM Honda Gx690 pressure washer. I need to replace the unloader valve the unloader that's on the pump is a VRT3 however I can't fine one with 3000psi only 4500psi can I use the 4500psi unloader
What pump is on the machine? Most unloaders can be adjusted to change the pressure setting.
Such a great video ,,thank u 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
If you have any suggestions on other videos let me know.
Looks like a "TMG Industrial Triplex Plunger Pressure Pump" or an exact copy? Not sure I am learning which one to buy.
General pumps are my favorite, followed by AR
Wow great. Video thanks so much for sharing.
Hope it helps you
Does lowering the pressure regulator make the pump last any longer?
@@HappyHands. if it does, it would be negligible. The pumps are made to reun at max pressure for many hours
Washer working then pressure quit, have Annovi REVERBERI rsv3g30 PUMP, no pressure. Took apart to clean /look for debris, flushed with water. Valves very hard to move or remove. (did not take out -options?). Put together still no pressure. Would replace unloader and valves be next step? Removed pump and checked pistons (good). Thanks
You need a pressure gauge on the pump. If you have high pressure without pulling the trigger, but lose pressure on trigger pull, then the unloader could be the issue.
If the pressure shows no high pressure then check valves and packings.
You need to pull the valves out. If they are hard to pull out, it could be they are damaged.
I just reasently got a pressure washer from my neighbor who had it apart already and told me a breif story of a maybe how and a maybe why he tells me the whole story starts with the pump now why i am glad i found your vidio its a honda motor its made by homelite and of coures theres no such thing as a honda pump so I hear hahaha 🤣
So now a learned a major thing through you that I am so sure nobody else will have told me about all this
Lots of great stuff in a small package so this washer has a good motor the pump easier to get a new one after all it's in peaces and I think upon his story it was run dry of oil in the pump because he said a bolt that holds the pump in place blew out It I never heard a thing like that now from what I heard from you about the numbers on the pump as being very important and nothing to do with the whole of a motor for parts it is a good thing in the chase for information
So this story ends for me looking in to a new pump and figuring were all that stuff he handed me goes back asides from the pump I will need a service manual do you know were were I can get it ???
Nice video lots of good stuff and things I did not know
Thank you for sharing and thank you again in advance
Typically an owners manual can be found through an internet search under owners manual (insert brand and model)
As for a pump replacement I would suggest contacting watercannon.com with the engine and shaft size. They will be able to supply you with a reasonably price replacement pump that will be fully plumbed or unplumbed
@@Brian_the_repair_guy good deal I will look in to those leads thank you